september 2009

TAXI��

blackshimane

September 2009

Kagura Hinomisaki Fresh Goya Flea Market

-Beyond-Route-9-CULTURE TRAVEL FOOD TANOSHI

“Yuk

i on

th

e B

each

”

articlesChotto…Ethics of the displaying the human body

Monthly TopicTraveling in Shimane, Japan, and abroad

ProfileGet your hands dirty and learn about solarpower

FoodWhat to buy in the grocery store and two

new dishes with recipes

Tanoshii

featured JET artwork

September 2009 – page1

CONTENTSSEPTEMBER 2009

by Jacob Heller

TAXI��

TanoshiiExplore the Yamaguchi Flea Market

Disclaimer Views and opinions arenot necessarily the ideas of thepublisher. Each are expressed by thewriter at the time of writing.

EDITORS: Regina Durr, GregFerguson,Wendy Holmes, BetsyPinkham, Lauren WetheringtonLAYOUT DESIGN: Regina DurrCOVER PHOTO: Regina Durr

Black Taxi is a monthly magazinefor the JET community in Shimaneprefecture, Japan published onlineand available to print.

TravelThe Tallest Lighthouse in East Asia

CultureSee kagura up close and personal

shimaneblack

by Jacob Heller

E-mail your artwork into be featured in the next issue!

Letter from the Editors,Refreshed, revamped, and restyled. TheBlack Taxi has new editors, ideas, andlayout. We hope that this will be aninvaluable resource to keep you entertainedon others experiences and informed onupcoming events. We are always lookingfor new writers, so send us an e-mailanytime!Next month we’re celebrating all things scary! Deadline for

submissions is September 20th via e-mail.

Submit your articles, artwork, and opinions to [email protected]

Translate your calendar…�� / nandemo

��

��

taiikuno hi

Sports Day

��

��

bunkano hi

Culture Day

��

��

anything useful… or not useful

Emiri Miyasaka of Japan answers the toughquestions during the Miss Universe 2009

pageant on August 23rd, 2009.Q1: Tell us something interesting about your countrythat people might not know.“Japan probably has the cleanest public restroom in theworld. The toilets speak to you and really take care ofyou. If you want to find out what I mean, just go visit


dai kyu

Substitute Day Off

��

��

shuugaku ryokou

School Trip

you. If you want to find out what I mean, just go visitJapan.”

Q2: What would be your 3 wishes?“First, I would like to speak all the languages in theworld. Because languages make us human. It islanguages that make us super human. Second, since Ilove to swim, I wish I could transform to fish. But, Idefinitely wouldn’t want to be made into sushi! Andthird, I wish I had the ability to transport so that I cancome back here, to the Bahamas, whenever, anytime Iwant.”

Book notes from…Anata no Shiranai Nedan

Jiten(Dictionary of Costs You Didn’t Know)•To start up your own mobile ramen-sellingtruck: 1,500,000 Yen•Yearly unclaimed lottery winnings:24,900,000,000 Yen•To get a big yakuza-style tattoo on your back:75-150,000 Yen•To rent Tokyo Dome for half a day in theafternoon: 350,000 Yen•To have a chapel wedding at a top-class hotel:3,700,000 Yen

Photos courtesy of missuniverse.com and zensho.com

Popular fast food chainSukiya has a newCurry King dish. It has3 times more rice and4 times more curry.Packed with 2122calories, the equivalentof 8.5 hamburgers or13 onigiris, it costsonly 890 yen.

debatable topics �� / chotto …


Lauren Wetherington is notvery good at chottoing

Matsue this past Saturday, I could not help but think to myself… wow, the humanbody is amazingly complex… the muscle tissue looks like beef jerky… I can’t

JinzaiPlastomics’

HUMAN BODYanother day at the museum or an ethical nightmare?

As I was observing the Jintai Plastomic’s Mysteries of the Human Body exhibition in

believe these people were once living…Yikes! That’s all of his skin hangingthere...Yes! I get to hold a real human brain… I wonder if these people signedup to have their bodies dissected and placed on display for the world tosee...wow that was awesome…I’m a little freaked out.

The exhibition offered several full body displays showing various levels of skin, muscle, organs, andbones. There were also displays of bodies cut into cross sections to show unique viewpoints of the faceand spinal cord. One presentation displayed pre-natal growth from 4 months to 9 months, while anothershowed a man completely skinned with his skin suspended on a hanger next to him. Viewers were invitedto touch the last two displays of a man’s body and a human brain. The brain felt like a heavy rubber toyand it was difficult to imagine it ever being the moist, soft, powerhouse of someone’s body. Sure, bodyexhibitions seem like a great educational opportunity for those who can stomach gazing intothe inner workings of the human body…for a price of course. Despite the cool factor, they havethe inner workings of the human body…for a price of course. Despite the cool factor, they havereceived massive amounts of attention and criticism on behalf of philosophical and religious debate.

It all began with a not-so-simple process called plastinationdiscovered by Gunther von Hagens in the 1970s. He invented aprocess to remove bodily fluids from the tissue and organs insuch a way as to replace it with a polymer that would halt furtherdecomposition. Due to his discovery, Gunther von Hagens’BodyWorlds became the frontrunner of body exhibitions in 1995. Itconsists of several donated cadavers dissected and plasticized ondisplay for paying customers all over the world. AlthoughBodyWorlds has achieved fame and popularity, it has alsoattracted negative press from ethical boards, religiousgroups, government agencies, international trade analysts,feminists, and parents. The most pressing concern appears to bethe source of the cadavers. BodyWorlds has provided documentationstating its cadavers are obtained through a body donation program inwhich the donors are over eighteen years old and consented to thisspecific program. The cadavers from pre-natal or newborn exhibitscome from morphological collections from medical institutions oruniversity programs. Satisfied?

BodyWorlds, having achieved world-renowned success, has naturally attracted copycats but thecopycats might not fully copy their predecessor. As BodyWorlds constantly defends its practices asbeing legitimate, a few other companies in England, Taiwan, South Korea, Japan, and Spain have yet toestablish legitimate donor programs, death certificates, or consent forms. Some critics claim thatsuch companies are guilty of “body snatching” or using unclaimed bodies found byChinese authorities.

Jintai Plastomic has admitted to using cadavers from China in exhibitions but whether or notconsent forms were used is unknown. Yet, where are we going to draw the line when it comes toamusement?

Perhaps Jintai Plastomic’s Mysteries of the Human Body takes a more ethical approach in its cadaverselection. I do not know. However, I’ll leave you with a few questions to ponder…

Do we have an innate right to do what we want to our bodies?When we die, do we lose the right to our bodies?Do consent forms even matter and why should we respect them?Should people make money off of from human remains?Do the advantages to using real human bodies outweigh the disadvantages?Is there any crime that could be committed that would result in the loss of one’s human rights?

debatable topics … �� / chotto


Here’s what a few people had to say:

Lauren: Is there an advantage of havingauthentic human body parts as opposedto plastic lookalikes?Barbara Walnut: It would never lookquite right but it would be more sanitaryand it would less morbid if there was a

Lauren: Do we have an innate right to dowhatever we want to our bodies after we die?Skanky Elephant: Yes, we have an innate right. Itis my body even after I die.Lauren: What if you commit a crime?Skanky Elephant: Crimes remove your rightsfrom society but not your own human rights.That’s crazy!Lauren: Some critics go as far as to comparethese types of exhibitions to prostitution. Is it theand it would less morbid if there was a

museum filled of plastic instead of realbody parts.Lauren: Would you submit a consentform to a similar organization?Barbara Walnut: Sure why not? If theconsent form wasn’t too long.

these types of exhibitions to prostitution. Is it thesame?Skanky Elephant: They are working in a sensefor the exhibition and making money from theirbodies but prostitution is more sexual and theexhibits aren’t about sex.

Lauren: What else could I readto get more insight into thistopic?My Little Pony: If you areinterested in these topics, youshould read the curious life ofhuman cadavers.

Lauren: Do you think we have an innate right to our bodyeven after we die?The Cheese Dacquoise: While we’re alive yeah but oncewe die the right basically dies because it’s not part of thebody.Lauren: Is it cool to make money off of human remains?The Cheese Dacquoise: If its proceeds went to moreresearch but to make a profit is rather shitty.Lauren: Are there any advantages to having real humanbody parts as opposed to plastic lookalikes?The Cheese Dacquoise: It’s the psychological aspect whenyou look at it and think “holy shit this is real”. Peoplewouldn’t go if it were plastic because it is stuff you don’t getto see all the time.

Thoughts? Questions? Want to argue your point?Email us and speak your mind.

-Beyond-Route-9-The beauty of being a teacher is getting holidays and substitute days off throughout the year. Make the most out of your time in Japan bytraveling in and out of Shimane. Make use of these wise words…

Look at your JET Diary on page 16 for the bolded days offwork and consult your school’s yearly calendar for otherdays.

By Regina Durr

Check how many days actual travel days youhave. Getting out of Shimane and returning usually

takes time and money.

monthly topic …


Decide your budget and what you want to do onyour vacation.

Research where you can go on yourbudget within Japan or abroad. Look in a

guidebook, start calling travel agents, and askother JETs.

Note: Keep tuned in – the Black Taxi will have various travel tips each month to keep you on the go!

Buy your tickets and submit the days of leaveneeded for your supervisor.

Find your closest train station and the nearest big city in Shimane!

Take local trains It’s super cheap. Though they are slow, you can meet lots oflocals and see the picturesque San-in coast. Plus, the bigger cities have helpful TouristInformation staff to help you use buses to see sights. Most downtowns are also located aroundthe station, so you’ll be in the heart of it all without worrying about parking.

Most popular tourist towns: Tsuwano, Hamada, Iwami-Ginza, Izumo, and Matsue.

Oki Islands


…monthly topic …

Travel in ShimaneDiscover the rolling hills and mountains. Though Shimane–ken competes with neighboring Tottori-ken for the most rural of all of Japan, Shimane is filledwith hidden gems and a rich history. Most big cities have a website for tourism in English, do alittle research and stay in a traditional Japanese style inn (ryookan) and soak away in an onsen.

Visit other jets. Not only do you usually get free lodging, but a local feel of the town.They know the side roads and back alleys to navigate by bicycle or kei-cars. Plus, they know thebest places to eat foreign foods and local specialties.

Camp for free If you want to go to the numerous beaches and plunk down on thesand all night, just set up your tent and drift off to sleep against the sound of the crashing sea.

Oki Islands

YAMAGUCHI-KEN

Act like a tourist. See all of the big cities that you’ve always dreamed about going to,see all the museums, and take all the pictures you want. Staying in hostels is also a great chance tomeet other English teachers and tourists from all over the world. You are just a highway bus,train, expressway, or flight away from all the sights of Japan!

See regional differences See for yourself how blunt Osaka people arecompared to the quiet Kyoto residents, or which side of the escalator you stand on in Tokyo comparedto Fukuoka. If you are really good at Japanese, then try to pick up the local dialects.

Most popular destinations: Fukuoka, Hiroshima / Miyajima, Kyoto, Kobe, Osaka, Tokyo, and Sapporo.

Travel in Japan



Buy Round trip tickets Save a few hundred yen and book a return to make surethe tickets don’t sell out.

Use highway buses Usually located in Masuda, Hamada, Izumo, and Matsue and they pickup in smaller towns along the way. This is the cheapest option to big cities, from there you can takefaster modes of transport. If you take an overnight bus, you save on lodging and get to your destinationat 6 or 8am. Also, between major cities you can take highway buses- look into Willer Express company.

Buy plane tickets at least 28 days in advance Japaneseairlines discount their fares up to 78% if you buy your tickets at least 28 days before departure. Between14-28 days, fares are discounted up to 55%, but 30% is more typical. Then, within 14 days of departure,expect to pay the full fare. You may have heard of discount shops to buy cheap bullet train tickets andairfares, but these don’t exist in Shimane. So, don’t count on them.

Use JR Regional Passes Sometimes it costs less than taking a highway bus and youcan ride the bullet trains between cities for a set number of days. Note: You can not use the nationalJR Railway Pass for tourists because you have a Visa to live in Japan, but you can use Regional Passes.

Photos courtesy of kankou.pref.shimane.jp/e

Travel InternationallyTo travel abroad, you need to get out of Shimane.The closest international airports are Yonago in Tottori-ken or outside of Hiroshima in Hiroshima-ken.But often, it’s worth taking a highway bus or the trains to Osaka and Tokyo to fly to anothercountry. This adds time and money, so always remember to schedule a day to get out and a day toreturn. Or else, you’ll end up paying for last-minute flights back to Shimane or take another day ofprecious Yearly Paid Leave.

Most popular destinations: South Korea, Malaysia, Vietnam, Cambodia, Australia, China, Philippines,Hawaii, and Hong Kong.



In Japan, travel agents are your best friends. They are ableto book the typical Japanese package (flight and fancy hotel with meals) and airline tickets. It’s generally agood idea to check a few companies, then go with the cheapest. They often advertise the base rate, sodon’t be fooled! Add in all of the taxes and fees for the final price before booking. They can also do adirect transfer from your local bank account to them for payment- just give them all your bankaccount details and you don’t have to worry! Many of the popular companies also speak English (phoneand e-mail) and charge a small fee.

Most popular companies: No. 1, IACE, H.I.S., STA, Across, and JTB

Another option is to go to your trusty airfarefinder website. This is only recommended for booking out of the country becauseit usually shows the normal price for flights within Japan. So, book those separately.

Most popular search engines: Travelocity, Priceline, Kayak, Zuji, Expedia

Finally, booking through the company’s website orbooking agent is a great way to find the cheapest price. You bypass the travel agent’sfee, but you need a credit card to purchase flights.

Most popular airlines: ANA, JAL, Korean Air, Northwest, Air China

Masuda / Tsuwano Hamada / Gotsu Izumo / Matsue

Route 9 east to Matsue, south toShimonoseki/ Chugoku HighwayRoute 191 west to Hagi, south-east to Hiroshima/ ChugokuHighway

Route 9 west to Masuda/Rout 191, east to MatsueHamada Highway toHiroshima/ ChugokuHighway

Route 9 west to Hamada/ HamadaExpressway, east to YonagoHighway 54 from Shinji toHiroshima/ Chugoku Highway

JR Yamaguchi Line to Shin-YamaguchiJR San-In Line to Hagi orMatsueChange at Shin-Yamaguchi forbullet trains

JR San-In Line west toYamaguchi-ken, or east toMatsueChange at Hiroshima forbullet trains

JR San-in Line west to Hamada, eastto Yonago/Tottori-kenIchibata Line west to IzumoJR Overnight train to Tokyo: daily,from ¥12,000 one wayChange at Okayama for bullet trains

•Hiroshima: 4 daily, ¥ 6,440 RT•Osaka: overnight, ¥18,000 RT•Tokyo: overnight, ¥23,000 RT

•Hiroshima: 16 daily, ¥5,200RT•Osaka: daily, ¥10,000 RTand overnight. ¥13,500 RT•Tokyo: overnight, ¥22,000RT

•Hiroshima: 14 daily, ¥ 8,000 RT•Okayama: 7daily, ¥7,000 RT•Kyoto: 4 daily, ¥10,000 RT•Osaka: 8 daily, ¥10,200 RT•Fukuoka: overnight, ¥17,600 RT•Tokyo: overnight, ¥23,100 RT

Hagi-Iwami Airport: ANA Use Hagi-Iwami Airport or Izumo Airport: JAL, JAS

Transportation Information



Hagi-Iwami Airport: ANA•Tokyo: daily, ¥ 30,000 RT•Osaka: daily•Hiroshima Airport:

Use Hagi-Iwami Airport orIzumo airport

Izumo Airport: JAL, JAS•Tokyo: 5 daily, from ¥28,200 RT•Osaka: 5 daily•Nagoya & Fukuoka: 2 daily•Sapporo & Okinawa: dailyOki Island: JAL•Izumo & Osaka: dailyYonago Airport: ANA, Asiana•Tokyo: 5 daily, from ¥28,100 RT•Nagoya & Fukuoka: daily•Seoul, South Korea: 3 weekly, from¥36,000 RT

Shimonoseki, Yamaguchi-ken•Pusan, South Korea: daily, ¥8,000 One Way

Shichirui Port•Oki islands, ¥5,600 RTSakaiminato, Tottori-ken•Donghae, South Korea: 3 weeklyovernight, ¥ 8,000 One Way•Vladivostok, Russia: 3 weekly,¥30,000 One Way

Note: The prices listed may not be accurate. Prices show Round Trip costs; One-Way prices are typically half of RT cost.

Special thanks to Caroline Ideus for researching Eastern Shimane travel information.

”

For 11,500 Yen you get any5 days of unlimited travel onLocal (�� futsū), Rapid (�� kaisoku ), or Super/ Special Rapid (

�� shin-kaisoku) trains.You can even split up the 5 days between multiple people! For example: 2 people for 2 days together, and

then 1 person for the 5th “day”. You can buy as many tickets as you want!


…monthly topicby Regina Durr

The “Seishun Juhachi Kippu”aka the “Youth 18 Ticket” that anyone can use during long school vacations.

used this from Osaka to Yokohama, Yokohama toto Saitama-ken

traveled for 5 days over 2 weeks, and used day passes or one-time tickets forsubways and private trains within the cities. It was a long train ride back fromTokyo in 24 hours, but it saved me over 30,000 Yen total. It was like each daywas about 2,300 Yen! Tokyo to Matsue only is normally around 11,500 Yen!-Regina, summer 2009

“Unreserved”

Un-mark Un-mark Un-mark

*Travel during the daywhen trains run morefrequently, one “day” isfrom 0:00 to 23:59.

*The itinerary may involve“moonlight” overnight trains,you can reserve your seat for510 Yen up to one monthbefore. They fill up quickly, sodon’t count on it for your last-minute travels.

Plan out your itinerary and print it in English atwww.hyperdia.com/cgi-english/hyperWeb.cgi

Trains usually start at 5am, and finish a little aftermidnight

*Subways and Privatetrains do not apply

On Sale at any JRStation

February 20 - March 31

July 1 - August 31

December 10 - January 10

Travel Days

March 1 - April 10

July 20 - September 10

December 20 – January20

*Bring snacks. Sometimesyou don’t have enoughtime to buy food.

Kaze no Ko Rakushuukan is aplace for kids to have fun and learn about windenergy / solar power, a handicraft center, and

featuring local businesses and people profile


by Anu Ruusunen

Language: Basic Japanese knowledgesuggested, staff speaks very basic English.

Cost: Free, except workshops (around¥250)

Pros: free Nordic Walking sticks areenergy / solar power, a handicraft center, anda big park.You choose your table, pay the fee and chose aworkshop (1 hour). I would recommend going thereduring weekdays as it's really quiet then and you cando as many workshops you want at your own pace.I love the place and the staff. They are always happyand every time I go there I get to do some nicehandicrafts. If the staff isn't around, go get them fromthe office and they will be more than happy to helpand show you around the building.

Insider Tip: They also often do other eventsduring weekends (survival course, fishing, camping,PET bottle rockets). A basic knowledge of Japanese isessential for these and you need to reserve a place inadvance.

Pros: free Nordic Walking sticks areavailable if you want to exercise in thepark with them

Cons: only local JR trains stop at TagiStation

Address & Phone Number: TagiStation, 0853-86-3644

Hours: open 9.00-18.00 (March-May,September-October), 9.00-19.00 (June-August), 9.00-17.00 (November-February).Closed Tuesdays.

Website: www.kazenoko-taki.com

You’ve probably figured out how to useyour rice cooker by now, but if you haven’t,get on it! Your rice cooker is your friendand can be used not only for cooking rice,but also for baking simple cakes andcustards.A standard apartment fridge is probably a

little larger than a dorm fridge. Irecommend heading to the 100 yen shopand buying some stackable Tupperware andjars. Leftovers will be much easier to store

Japanese cuisine relies heavily on freshness.Unfortunately that means many thingsshouldn’t be bought until close to the day yourplan to use them. There are some things thatyou can keep on hand though. Soy sauce isprobably the most used seasoning in Japanesecooking. It can be kept in the cupboard in asealed container. Mirin is a sweet cooking sakethat should be kept in the fridge, alongside thesesame oil and rice wine vinegar. Miso willkeep for several months in a sealed container.

recipes and more

My Rice CookerDoes What?!

A kitchen is the heart of a home, so start to get toknow yours. Here’s some simple tips to help set up a

Japanese kitchen.

food…

Betsy Pinkham has a year’sexperience with Japanesecooking tightening her belt


jars. Leftovers will be much easier to storethat way and you can keep a supply of dashi(soup stock) in the jars which is a base formany Japanese recipes.Some essentials in your Japanese kitchen

are a grater/shredder, strainer, rolling pin,mortar & pestle, and clothes pins for sealingbags. All of these can be picked up at the100 yen shop as well. They won’t lastforever, but unless you’re planning on livingin Japan beyond JET it should be fine.

keep for several months in a sealed container.Shiromiso (white) is mild compared to moresavory akamiso (red). They can be usedinterchangeably in recipes according to yourtaste. Tofu goes bad very quickly after it isopened, but lasts weeks in its original, sealedpackaging.On the kitchen shelves I keep an assortment

of dried seaweeds, katsuo (dried bonitoshavings,) wasabi, sesame seeds, rice, anddried noodles such as ramen, soba, andglass/cellophane noodles.Fresh from Tokyo, I was clueless about

Japanese vegetables. I learned a lot since thenjust by paying attention to school lunch andasking what was what. Since Japanese dishesrely on the freshness of their ingredients, theJapanese diet is ruled by the seasons. Summervegetables currently available are tomatoes,piman (green peppers), cucumbers, nasu(Japanese eggplant) and goya (bitter gourd.) Askyour neighbors or teachers for tips on how toprepare them. I recently got the followingGoya Chanpuru recipe from my JTE that way.

Cut goya in half lengthw

ise. Rem

ove seedsw

ith a spoon. Slice the goya thinly. Cut pork in to bite- size

pieces. Heat 1 T

bsp of vegetable oil in a large skillet. Stir-fry pork and season w

ith salt and pepper. Add goya slices

and cook until softened. Crum

ble tofu into the skillet.Lightly stir- fry w

ith pork and goya. Add sake. Pour in eggs

and stir quickly. Add soy sauce and rem

ove from heat.

Goya C

hanpuru

Ingredients:

1 goya (bitter gourd)1 block cotton tofu, drained125 g. thinly sliced pork,2 eggs, beaten2 tsps soy sauce2 tsps sake rice w

ine1/2 tsp salt*vegetable oil for frying

*4 servings

recipes and more …food


size-fry pork and season w

ith salt and pepper. Add goya slices

fry with pork and goya. A

dd sake. Pour in eggs

Soak kanten in water for 30 m

ins. Squeezeand tear the kanten into sm

all pieces. Heat 1 2/3 cup of

water in a deep pot. A

dd in the kanten pieces and sugar.Bring to a boil and sim

mer for 10 m

inutes, stirring well.

Pour liquid through a strainer into a flat container andcool to firm

.M

ix 1/4cup of w

ater and 2/3 cup sugar in a sauce pan andsim

mer. A

dd lemon juice in the syrup and cool.

When it’s firm

, cut kanten jelly into small

cubes. Portion kanten jelly and fruits into four dessertbow

ls. Pour syrup over the jelly and fruits and put ankoon the top.

Anm

itsu

Ingredients:

For jelly:

*4 servings

1/2 stick kanten (agar-agar)3 T

bsp sugar

For syrup:2/3 cup sugar2 T

bsp lemon juice

For toppings: 1/3 cup anko (boiled azuki beans)1 can of peaches, or oranges

Greg Ferguson findsenlightenment in

An Antiquated SystemDiscovering the Yamaguchi Flea Market

Note: The Yamaguchi Flea Market will take place on October 4, November1, and December 6 this year. Things kick off at 8am and wrap up around 2-3pm as some vendors leave earlier than others.

entertainment

You need not travel down any stretch of rural road in North Americafor too long before encountering that old familiar fixture, the antique shop.Continue on into town and you’ll probably also find its relatives, the yard sale andthe flea market. All three have endured for years, catering to people with toomuch junk, not enough junk, appreciators, connoisseurs, hobbyists, collectors,enthusiasts, bargain hunters, cheapskates, DIY types, and more – but especially,they have catered to people who enjoy the thrill of discovery...of walking into astrange environment with an open mind and emerging with a rare and unique prize.That’s where the purest fun is to be had. Japan, for as much as it is concernedwith its past and traditions, has a limited reach backward regarding usedgoods and antiques. Shimane in particular has a dearth of places wheretruly ancient and amazing treasures can be unearthed and given fresh

everything entertainment �� / tanoshii…


truly ancient and amazing treasures can be unearthed and given freshlife in the hands of a new owner, no doubt thanks in part to the emergence andincreasing convenience attributed to online shopping. Luckily, for those amongyou who want a piece of old Japan to claim as your own, you’re not very far fromthe Yamaguchi Flea Market.

On the first Sunday of every month, Kameyama Parkin downtown Yamaguchi City is given over to vendors of allkinds from all over. The spread is large and impressive, andyou’re bound to be surprised by what’s there. The first time Iwent (in my second year, not having even known of it during myfirst), the group I travelled with found (in no particular order):old Coke bottles, movie posters, figurines depicting adults incompromising positions, mutant pumpkins, funky vases, dustybooks, coins of Chinese origin that predated Japanese currencyhere, a massive porcelain tiger, a real live baby turtle, vintageclothing, and a sword belonging to a most taciturn and nimbleman. For you, I can`t promise all of those things (except for thesword man), but I can promise a richer and more rewardingexperience than trolling the recycle shops and Hard-Offs/Book-Offs scattered throughout Shimane that seem to only stockgoods dating back 30 years or less.

My own highlight from that first trip wasfinding those coins and others, not knowing at thetime what exactly they all were, then taking themto school to ask fellow staff members. Somewere stumped but genuinely curious, and otherswith whom I rarely spoke took the chance toshine by authoritatively shedding light on theirorigins. We had a great time marvelling overthem, and it gave me a chance to share my ownanecdotes about Canada`s currency and history.And though I may be wrong, I think that bringingold Japanese coins to work really upped mycoolness factor. I`m pretty sure it did at least.

everything entertainment … �� / tanoshii


Looking at a map, you`ll notice how close Yamaguchi City is to Shimane. Paying a visitis spectacularly uncomplicated; the city’s train station is a stone’s throw from thepark for fans of JR, or for those who prefer to drive you can just stick to Rte. 9 and takethe marked exits leading you toward the station. The distance from Matsue mightbe prohibitive, but with a carful of good friends to pass the time and split the driving,you’re practically guaranteed a great time. Just leave enough room for all the stuff you’resure to be bringing back.

peninsula filled with small beach houses that double as restaurants during the dayand empty out at 4pm.

Start at Hinomisaki Shrine. It dates back to 1664 and stands out inthe lush greenery as a colorful collection of wooden buildings are set amongstthe valley.

Next, walk towards the sea winding through a narrow, charming rowof houses where fishermen live. If you’re lucky, you will end up chatting withthe housewives that are cleaning their pots and pans in the alley after cookingtheir husbands’ catch of the day. At the end, you will see a small beach

tips and tricks in and out of Shimane

�� HinomisakiLocated just north of Izumo Taisha, this marinetrade port has the tallest lighthouse in East Asia.

Hinomisaki is a gleaming coastline that captures the wonders of theSan-in coast. On the way, you navigate a narrow, winding highway trying not togo too far over into the cliff. As the sun sets, you reach the eastern edge of the

travel

Regina Durr has traveled toover 23 countries and israrely seen in the iinaka


their husbands’ catch of the day. At the end, you will see a small beachsurrounded by boulders and long fishing boats in the marina.

Move onwards to the right, up a driveway around the peninsula towardsthe park. This small hill is a good hike to the Hinomisaki Lighthouse – oneof the most historic lighthouses in the world. Wind through the gravel pathand tall trees towards the lighthouse, stopping on the bouldering cliff for thebest view of the sunset. If it’s early in the day, you can see a row of boats inthe distance fishing.

Tips:If you arrive during the day, you can take a sightseeing cruisewith a glass bottom to see under the Sea of Japan.Also, restaurants close early at around 4/5pm, so go early ifyou want to eat fresh seafood specialties.There are many ryokan’s in the area, stay overnight if youwant.

Directions:From Izumo JR Station, Bus Terminal #1 take the bus toIzumo Taisha/ Hinomisaki. Get off at the last stop. Busesdepart every 30 min and takes 47 minutes (goes by IchibataTaisha Station also), from 7:20am-8pm. Last return bus at19:22. ¥ 840 each way.By car, go to Izumo Taisha, make a left (Taisha on yourright, pass the bus park) and follow signs to Hinomisaki.

dance, slowly and gracefully, while her sadness becomes aggression. The flute'smelody echoes her emotions while the drums begin to intensify. Slowly hermovements begin to change. Her elegant hand gestures turn into forcefulclaws. Her light steps become exaggerated stomps as she throws chilling staresinto the audience. The flute fades, the drums continue to increase in volume andtempo while her dance becomes dizzyingly fast and forceful. With a finalspin, she lands in a threatening crouch. A horned mask now covers her delicatefeatures. Her song is no longer a lament but a violent growl. The beautiful womanwas an illusion. The man is caught in the Earth Spider's web.

Tsuchigumo

culture…

Wendy Holmes. Cultured(adj): Produced underartificial and controlledcircumstances.


language and understanding Japanese life

ENTERTAINMENT theof GODSGet immersed in the world of kagura

The atmosphere at the shrine is festive on this chilly autumnevening. Families are huddled together soaking in the warmth of the fire, the oden,and the alcohol. As I approach, an inebriated old man throws a beer in myhand and ushers me through the crowd to the front. I hesitantly sit down,giving an apologetic glance to the former front row observers. On stage, a woman(played by a man) is singing to a man. Although I do not understand a singleword, the sadness in her voice needs no translation. She gives him a gift andthe man responds before disappearing behind a curtain. The woman begins to

Tsuchigumo (��), or the Earth Spider, is one of manytales transferred to the stage in Iwami Kagura, and my personal favorite.Kagura is a Shinto theatrical dance which means “entertainment of thegods.” It is said to have originated when Amaterasu (the sungoddess) hid herself in a cave, bringing cold and darkness. Inorder to entice her out, other gods staged entertainmentoutside. When she peeked out to see what was going on, the cave wasclosed behind her and light was restored to the world.

Today kagura is a vibrant part of life in rural Shimane,especially the Iwami region which has it's own style. It can be foundthroughout the year in community center competitions but, in myopinion, is best seen at shrine dedications in the fall. Someof these continue through the night into the morning andthe atmosphere is unforgettable. If you're lucky, you may evenbe invited to participate. Children start training very young andmany of your students may practice kagura, whether you are inelementary, junior high, or high school. If you're in the Iwamiregion, you will probably stumble upon a performance accidentally,but you might want to ask around about the shrine dedicationswhich seem to take place between late September and earlyNovember. If you find yourself hooked, or just bored on a Sundayafternoon and feel like taking a beautiful drive to see kagura, checkout the next page on Kagura Village in Midori-cho, Hiroshima.

language and understanding Japanese life

Kagura Village:Or Going to the Theater in Your Bathrobe

In a presumed effort to advance kagura as a theatrical artform, Midori-cho in Hiroshima created a tiny villageatop a hill with a kagura theme. At one end of thevillage is an onsen, at the other is the stage, known asKagura Dome. In between is a pleasing, although quitetouristy, collection of inns, shops, and restaurants. Near thedome you will also find a mask-making workshop and akagura museum (all in Japanese but worth the freeadmission). Midori-cho is home to 13 excellent kaguragroups which stage performances every weekend and holidayafternoon throughout the year, except winter. During thesummer, night kagura is also held. On these evenings thelantern-lit village is quiet except the echoes of drumsfrom the dome and the click-clack sound of woodensandals as inn-goers make their way to the show in theiryukata.

culture…

ShowtimesNight kagura: The last nightperformance for this summer is,


Getting ThereKagura village may be a little difficult to get to without acar, but the drive is beautiful and the roads are usuallyempty. It is about 25 minutes from Ohnan-cho on Route6, just past the 321 intersection.Google maps - Kagura Village

Further informationKagura Village

www.akitakata.jp/site/page/sightseeing/spa/kagura_toujimura/Touji Mura

www.toujimura.com/Kagura Timetable

www.npo-hiroshima.jp/cgi-bin/schedule/sche36.cgi

performance for this summer is,unfortunately, the same night as thewelcome party. However, they havepractice on Saturday nights and inn-goers are given the opportunity towatch and try their hand at kagura.

Afternoon kagura: Every Sundayand holiday from March to Decembertwo plays are performed at 12:30 and2:30. Admission is 700 yen.

Special events: The 13 groups ofMidori-cho are staging a competition on September 26th, from 1:00 to 11:00.The next day is one of their “International Days” in which you will receive a synopsis in English and be given the chance to try on thecostumes at the end of the show. TheSunday show is the regular 700 yen, but the price for the Saturday competition starts at 1000 and goes up to 150,000 yen for the front section.

Historical

1.Look at the moon, duh.2.Find the rabbit making mochi in themoon.3.Put out pampas grass decorations.4.Eat round objects that resemble themoon such as Tsukimi dango, Tsukimiburgers, or eggs on udon.5.Recite poetry6.Write a haiku and send it to theBlack Taxi.

Highlights

September 6, 1998

��

Tsukimi:Viewing theharvest moon

language and understanding Japanese life … culture

Full Moon: 9/4 and 10/4Apparently there is something special about the full moon ofthe 7th month of the lunar calendar. If you're in Kyotoduring the October full moon, you can take a special moon-viewing cruise. But if you find yourself at home, you canobserve tradition by doing any or all of the following:


Historical

The Satsuma Rebellion wascrushed.

September 6, 1998Kurosawa Akira died.

September 23, 1847Komei became emperor ofJapan. He reigned until1866, when he replaced byhis son, the Meiji emperor.

September 24, 1977

��

��

sho shuu

�:

Early autumnbeginning; first time

�: autumn

Kotowaza��

He to kaji wa moto kara sawaguLiteral: Fart and fire, from the origin, make a

fuss.Meaning: It is often the originator who

complains loudest.Photos courtesy of mboogiedown-japan.blogspot.com and McDonalds Japan.

september 2009

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