service design for the future of textile artisans communities: an enabling ecosystem towards...
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service design for the futureof textile artisans’ communities:an enabling ecosystem towardssustainability & social innovation
Loughborough Design School | AHRC Design Starsupervisors: Dr MC Escobar-Tello, Dr VA Mitchell
Francesco Mazzarella, PhD researcher
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research problem
the global crisis is leading to theend of a linear economy, whilesetting the ground for redistributedmicroproductions, based on new ethics of sustainability
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the craft discourse is mainlybased on individual makingpractices, overlooking theirhuman and social dimension
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it is missing a strategicagenda, which could createsustainable interconnectionswithin this pacthy landscape
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to explore how service designcan contribute to encouragetextile artisans’ communitiestowards a sustainable future
research aim
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research focus
material
by handsmachinerydigital tools
qualityskilled control
personal identitymaterial culture
local fibres:vegetableanimaldiscarded
artisancommunity
small scalelocaliseddiversifiedflexible
tool making
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textiles
utilitarianculturally meaningful
aesthetic
large availability of fibreshigh employmentwide applicationsrising consumer trends
why?
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textile artisans’ communitiesare bottom-up, human-centredaggregations, using local fibres,managing the process of makingculturally significant apparel,by hands or through digital tools
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service design can facilitatethis holistic process:
1. artisans’ communities2. collaborative services3. enabling ecosystem
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reflectset a strategic agendafor encouraging TACtowards a sustainablefuture
1C
prelim
inar
y st
ud
y
planselect TACto involvein co-design
2A 2C
to co-designcollaborativeservices forsustainable
TAC
planmap textileartisanallandscape
1A
planplaninterconnectionsamong TAC
reflectsynthesize servicedesign processinto a theoreticalframework
3A 3C
evaluatio
n
to outlinean enablingecosystem ofsustainable
TAC
act & observeexplore sustainablefuture trendsfor TAC
co-designcollaborativeservices
act & observe
1B
act & observeoutline anenabling ecosystemof services
3B2B
PS: TAC: Textile Artisans’ Communities
to developtheoretical
framework forsustainablefuture for
TAC
mai
n s
tud
y
reflectevaluate whereasservice designhas met thetheoretical framework
methodology
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discover define
develop deliver
experts’focus groupshadowing
contextualinterviewsco-creation
serviceblueprint
serviceecosystemmap
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encourage sustainable development
trigger creative economiesNew York (USA)
rescue craft heritage
Nottingham (UK)
participatoryaction
research
Cape Town (South Africa)
to explore the wide scope of application of service designand develop a flexible service model to be tailored on di�erent contexts
participatoryaction
research
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textile artisans’ communitiescan contribute to sustainabledevelopment as they...rescue cultural heritage provide social engagement
boost creative economy enhance resource stewardship
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FUTURETRENDS
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1.new marketmodels
alternative economies
Openwear, “CollaborativeCollection”, 2010, EU
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global economic shifts grassroots innovations sharing economy collaborative consumption
1a.alternative economies
Patagonia, “CommonThreads”, 2015, USA
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2.new business models
redistributed manufacturing
UKTF, Let’s Makeit Here, 2012, UK
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relocalised manufacturing micro-factories network of fablabs changing workforce
2a.redistributed manufacturing
Repair Café
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Alabama Chanin,Stichting, USA3.new production
models
flexible production
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long tail digital fabrication mass customisation on demand
3a.flexible production
Knyttan, UK
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4.new design processes
circular economy
Ananas Anam, “Piñatex”,2014, Uk & Spain
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open, collaborative, free communities of practice collaborations & short chains cradle to cradle
Neha Lad, “Beauty in thediscarded”, 2014, India4a.circular
economy
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5.new product types
advanced artisanship
Yen Chen Chang,“Knitted Sensors”, 2014, UK
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from fast to slow fashion long sellers interactive, complex, immaterial product-service-system
Timo Rissanen, Zero-WasteDenim, 2010, USA5a.advanced
artisanship
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6.new designer’s roles
designer entrepreneur
Mary Portas, Headen &Quarmby, 2013, UK
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mass profession of prosumers multidisciplinary communities tinkering & self-production complex designer’s palette
6a.designer entrepreneur
Wool and the Gang, UK
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FireUp, 2103, UK7.new relationships
enabling ecosystem
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top-down vs bottom-up distributed P2P networks systemic thinking strategic agenda
7a.enabling ecosystem
TED, The TEN,2014, UK
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HOWTO GET THERE?
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barriers enablers
Dominance of financial structures based
on profits;
Lack of time & e�orts to develop
alternative models;
Lack of skills;
Export of machinery and outsource of
production;
Lack of interest for young people in craft
production;
Endangered craft heritage;
Consumers’ misperception of quality;
Over-consumption;
Lack of information on textiles, artisans
and sustainability challenges;
Lack of sustainability uptake;
Lack of training in strategies/management/
entrepreneurship in design curricula.
Change of mindset (systemic thinking);
Interconnected
design-artisanship-academia
-policy-consumers;
Cultural empathy with artisans;
Metatools, flexible, collaborative, reflective;
Storytelling to elicit and convey engaging
meanings;
Empowerment models: access to
information, awareness, ability,
independency;
Development of sustainable business
models;
Technological advancements.
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a sustainable manifestofor textile artisans’ communities
Shift the focus from aesthetics to ethics, from style to quality meanings;
Ethical labour and rights must be set: less bad is not good;
Textile artisanship stands as a slow reaction to fast fashion;
Textiles are interconnected to their wholeness: materials, processes,
people, places;
Being vs. having, learning from nature and acknowledging the unpredictable;
Manage connectivity within local communities, as collective wisdom and
social act of collaboration;
Design as political agent, embracing diversity as resource, weaving
synergies among di�erent assets;
Scale up open initiatives within peer-to-peer networks at a glocal scale;
Understand the root system and trigger holistic and systemic change,
from micro to macro scales;
Build an enabling ecosystem: complex, adaptive infrastructure supported
by polycentric governance.