“SHOE PRODUCTION”

SUBMITTED BY:-

ABHIJIT CHAVAN 06ASIF SHAIKH 35SUNNY HINDLEKAR 14GANESH KALE 20GAYATRI CHONKAR 08RESHMA DHULAP 10

F. Y. BMS-SEMESTER II-FEB 2005UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF:-

PROF. RUKESH

K. J. SOMAIYA COLLEGE OF ARTS & COMMERCEVIDYAVIHAR MUMBAI – 400 007

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Acknowledgement:-By dealing with the project on ‘Shoe Production’, we got

the detail idea of Production Management in an organisation.We mention thanks to those who agreed to contribute for

our project. We also mention thanks to the Book Authors, without their support this project was not possible. We recognize the support received from our Project Guide Prof. Rukesh and the library staff of K. J. Somaiya College of Arts & Commerce.

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Index

Sr. no. Table of Content Page no.1 Introduction on Shoes 42 Product Design 83 Process Design 134 Production Process 145 Method of Shoe Construction 186 Material Management 217 Machine & Equipment 268 Plant Maintenance 299 Example for Shoe Production 3110 Cost Sheet 3311 Market Value for Shoe Company 3412 Bibliography 35

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Shoe IntroductionShoe is covering for the foot. Shoes have a sole, and most shoes also have a

heel. The upper part of most shoes extends on higher than the ankle. Boots are footwear that reach beyond the ankle. People wear shoes in the order to protect their feet from the environment, Sharp objects, and uncomfortable surfaces.

Fashion often determines shoes styles. The desire be fashionable has led to unusual styles. For example, many European men of the 1300s wore shoes called crackowes, which had an extremely long toe. Some crackowes had a toe so long that it had to be fastened to the knee with a chain to prevent the wearer from tripping. From the 1300s to the 1700s, some European women wore shoes with sole so thick that that walking was impossible without support. Shoes once worn in Japan were connected to stilts as high as 6 inches (15 centimeters).

Most shoes are made of leather. Other shoe materials include canvas, velvet and such synthetic substances as plastics. Materials and styles very somewhat, depending on climate, custom, and other factors. For example, many farmers in the Netherlands wear heavy wooden shoes to protect their feet from the damp ground. Many Japanese wear shoes outside their home but prefer soft slippers at home.

Kinds of shoes. There are four main kinds of shoes. Casual and dress shoes,Sport shoes,Work shoes and,Corrective shoes.

Casual shoes and dress shoes are made for most everyday occasions. Most casual shoes are low-heeled styles, such as the loafer, moccasin, oxford, and pump. Oxfords feature a lacing over a tongue. Loafers, moccasins, and pumps are slip-on shoes. Most slip-on shoes have no lace or tongue.

Most dress shoes, or evening shoes, for women are based on the pump or sandal style and have high or medium heels. Materials used for these shoes include

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brocade, satin, silk, tapestry, and velvet. Some men’s dress shoes are made of patent leather (leather with a glossy finish).

Sport shoes are designed to enhance the performance of athletes and to provide comfort and durability. They have different features for various sports. Basketball shoes and tennis shoes have rubber soles also prevent the shoes have metal or synthetic-rubber spikes that enable the wearer to start and stop quickly. Football shoes have synthetic-rubber cleats for the same purpose.

Beginning in the 1960s, more and more people, especially in the united states, become interested in personal fitness. As a result, shoe manufacturers began to produce highly specialized athletic shoes for such activities as running, walking, and aerobic exercise. In addition, cross- training shoes are designed to be appropriates for play of more than one sport. Many people wear athletic shoes for casual dress as well as for sports and other exercise.

Work shoes are worn for safety and comfort in many kinds of jobs. Workers in some industries wear shoes with a steel toecap for protection against injury. Other workers wear footwear designed to prevent burns, to prevent slipping, or to protect the wearer from electrical shock. Most mail carriers, nurses, restaurant worker, and other who must stand or walk for long long periods wear shoes that have a cushioned sole.

Corrective shoes are designed to provide relief from such foot conditions as bunions and corns. They also are used for hammertoes (toes bent in the form of a claw) and other disorders. Some corrective shoes are ready-made products that have built-in-corrections for minor foot problems. For example, one style features a special heel that supports the arch, the curved part of the sole of the foot. Other corrective shoes are specially made for one person, some according to a physician’s prescription. A person can also have special shoes made to fit the exact shape of the feet-including any corns or other bulges. Such shoes reduce the pressure against these areas.

The shoe industry in the United States produces about 250 million pairs of shoes annually. Americans buy more than 850 million pairs of shoes imported from Brazil, China, Indonesia, Taiwan, and other countries yearly.

Shoes manufacturing requires dozens of operations, many of which are highly skilled. Fist a shoe designer, who generally works for a shoe manufacturer, makes sketches of ideas and decides what colors and materials will be used. The manufacture produces samples of the shoes, and sales representatives show the

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samples to buyers from shoe and department stores. The buyers then order shoes from the manufacturer.

At the shoe factory, workers prepare patterns for each component of each size shoe to be manufactured. Using patterns, a worker then cuts sections that will from the upper of the shoe. The section of the upper are then joined together by stitching or cementing. Next, the upper is pulled over a last (a plastic from in the approximate sharp of a foot) on a fasting machine. A worker then attraches the sole to the upper by stitching, cementing, or molding. Finally, the heel is attached and various finishing operations are carried out.

Shoes and health Shoes that have been poorly fitted can cause such problems as backaches,

sore muscles, fatigue, and poor posture. Shoes that are too tight may result in corns, hammertoes, and ingrown toenails. People can avoid such problems by taking special care when buying shoes, especially children’s shoes. Most children outgrow their shoes within a few months.

Shoes should have a space of 1\2 to 3\4 inch(13 and 19 millimeters) between the tip pf big toe and the shoe. Most people have one foot larger then the other, and so both feet should be fitted. A person should walk around casual dress shoes are made for most everyday occasions. The shoes upper parts are usually soft and flexible for comfort while walking. The hard, stiff soles provide durability.

Sport shoes are designed to enhance athletic performance. They usually have thick padding to cushion impact and a patterned wearing surface that provides good traction.

While trying on new shoes to ensure a comfortable fit. Some people wear certain fashionable shoes even though these shoes are uncomfortable and can hurt the feet. For example, high heel can cramp the toes by pushing the feel forward. Pointed shoes also crowd the toes. Shoes with hard, thick soles can prevent flexible movement. Hot feet can result from shoes that do not breathe (allow foot moisture to escape). Some synthetic materials do not breathe as well as leathers.

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HISTORYNo one knows when people first began to wear shoes. The first foot

coverings worn in cold regions were probably baglike wrappings made of animal fur. The first known footwear used in warm surroundings consisted of sandals made of plant fibers or leather. The ancient Egyptians wore such sandals as early as 3700 b.c, and the ancient Greeks and Romans also wore sandals. In china, people wore wooden-soled shoes and cloth shoes thousands of years ago.

Some shoes of the pastThroughout history, people have worn shoes not only for protection but also

for decoration and to indicate social status. Shoe styles have gone in and out of fashion, just as they do today. For example, the fashion in women’s shoes changed to rounded toes in the 1500s low heels by the late 1500s and high heels in the 1600s.

The Indians of north America made moccasins of animal skins. The Europeans who settled in the new world wore sturdy leather shoes most of the time, but some colonists also wore moccasins.

Until the mid-1800, despite the many changes in shoe styles, shoemaking itself involved chiefly the use of simple hand tools. Most people wore homemade shoes or bought shoes from a shoemaker who lived nearby or traveled from house. Improved sewing machines were developed in the 1800s and shoemaking became a factory operation. These machines had special devices to stitch shoes part that previously had required or stitching by hand.

In 1882, Jan Ernst matzeliger, a worker in a Massachusetts shoe factory, invented the shoe- lasting machine. This and other new shoemaking machines led to the mass production of shoes by 1900. the mass production of footwear brought a great reduction in the price of these productions. Today, many shoe-manufacturing operation are automated. For example, shoes may be designed on a computer. In addition, components may be cut by a laser and stitched by computer-controlled stitches. Such improvements enable manufactures to respond to style changes quickly and with reduced costs.

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The anatomy of a shoe can be divided in an upper and lower (or bottom part). Sections of the upper include Vamp, Quarter, Toecap, Throat, Insole board, and Throatline. The sections of the lower shoe consist of an Outsole, Shank and Heel.

The Upper of the Shoe

All parts or sections of the shoe above the sole that are stitched or otherwise joined together to become a unit then attached to the insole and outsole. The upper of the shoe consists of the vamp or front of the shoe, the quarter i.e. the sides and back of the shoe, and the linings. Uppers are made in a variety of different materials, both natural and synthetic. Leather became the obvious cover of choice because it allowed air to pass through to and from the skin pores thereby providing an opportunity to keep the feet, cool. The plastic properties of animal skins further help mould the shoe to the foot beneath. The ability for leather to crease over flexor surfaces facilitates the function of the foot. Ironically synthetics used as uppers display elastic properties, which mean the shoe upper never quite adjusts to the foot, shape in the same way as natural leather. Synthetics are cheaper to mass-produce and are now found in most mass produced footwear. Synthetic uppers are more waterproof. Woven fabric such as cotton corduroy can be used as uppers. Classified as breathable fabrics these help aeration.

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Vamp

The vamp covers the dorsum of the foot (includes the tongue piece) and superior aspects over the toes. This section i.e. the toe puff is reinforced which serves to give the shoe its shape as well as protect the toes. The vamp is often made of more than one piece, creating a decorative pattern. There are various types of vamps suited to different styles of shoes.

Quarter

The complete upper part of the shoe behind the vamp line covering the sides and backpart. The top edge of the sides and back of the quarter describes the topline of the shoe. In athletic shoes the topline is often padded and referred to as a collar. The medial and lateral sections join in a seam at the posterior end of the shoe. In Oxford style lacing shoes, the eyelet section is formed by the superior part of the quarter (while the underlying tongue is part of the vamp). In the Gibson style the lacing segment forms part of the vamp. The heel section of the quarter is frequently reinforced with a stiffener. This helps support the rearfoot. In boots the quarter is often referred to as 'top'. In the Bal method, the front edges of both quarters are stitched together and covered with the back edge of the vamp. In the Blucher method the quarter panels are placed on top of the vamp, and the front edges are not sewn together. In comparison with the Bal method, the Blucher method permits the fitting of a larger foot girth by broadening the throat of the shoe. A convalescent shoe (open to toe) is a variation on the Blucher method in which the lacing extends to the front edge of the vamp. In athletic shoes the vamp and quarter panels are often one continuous piece of nylon or leather with additional leather pieces added to reinforce critical areas of the shoe. Reinforcement added to the region of the medial longitudinal arch are termed the saddle if it is added to the outside of the shoe or the arch bandage if it is added to the inside of the shoe.

The counter is a component of the quarter that stabilizes the hind foot in the shoe and retains the shape of the posterior portion of the shoe. Counters are usually made from fiber board or heat moulded plastic. Foxing is an additional piece of leather that covers the counter externally. Sometimes a counter will extend medially to support the heel and prevent prolonged pronation.

Toecap

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Many shoes incorporate a toecap into the upper of the shoe. Toecaps are either stitched over into a decorative features referred to as toe tips. The toe box refers to the roofed area over and around the part of the shoe that covers the toes. The function of the toe box is to retain the shape of the forefoot and allow room for the toes. The height and width of the toe box is dictated by shape of the last used to construct the shoe. Certain types of non-athletic and athletic footgear will offer extra depth in the toe box.

Throat

The central part of the vamp just proximal to the toe box. The throat is formed by the seam joining the vamp to the quarter i.e. throat line. The position of the throat line depends on the construction of the shoe, for example a shorter vamp and longer quarters define a lower throat line. This gives a wider lower opening for the foot to enter the shoe. The throat is defined by the connection of the rear edge of the vamp and the front part of the quarter. The location of the throat will vary with the design of the shoe. Because the vamp and quarter panels are often one piece in the athletic shoe, the throat is at the eye stay. This refers to the point where the lacing is attached to the vamp. The throat of the shoe dictates the maximum girth permitted by the shoe.

Insole board

In quality shoes the quarters and vamps are lined to enhance comfort and durability. Linings may consist of various materials i.e. leathers, fabrics, and manmade synthetics. The lining on the insole segment is called 'the sock' and may be full-length, three-quarter or just the heel section. Many linings are made of synthetic material and are usually confined to the quarters and the insock.

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Insole (inner sole)

A layer of material shaped to the bottom of the last and sandwiched between the outsole (or midsole) and the sole of the foot inside the shoe. The insole covers the join between the upper and the sole in most methods of construction and provides attachment for the upper, toe box linings and welting. This provides a platform upon which the foot can operate and separates the upper from the lower. The insole board is necessary in shoes that are constructed using cemented or Goodyear welt techniques because it is the attachment for upper and lower components. The majority of insole boards are made of cellulose and are treated with additives to inhibit bacterial growth. Athletic shoe wear will often have a sock liner, a piece of material placed over the top of the insole board (glued in position or removable.

Outsole

This is the outer most sole of the shoe, which is directly exposed to abrasion and wear. Traditionally made from a variety of materials, the outsole is constructed in different thickness and degrees of flexibility. Ideal soling materials must be waterproof, durable and possess a coefficient of friction high enough to prevent

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slipping. Leather has poor gripping capabilities and synthetic polymers are much preferred. There are also an infinite variety of surface designs. Extra grip properties can be incorporated in the form of a distinctive sole pattern with well-defined ridges. Alternatively they can be moulded with cavities to reduce the weight of the sole. These cavities need to be covered with a rigid insole or can be filled with light foam to produce a more flexible sole. In some cases two or more materials of different densities can be incorporated into the sole to give a hard wearing outer surface and a softer, more flexible midsole for greater comfort. Synthetic soling materials will off the physical property of dampening down impact levels (shock attenuation).

Shank

The shank bridges between the heel breast and the ball tred. The shankpiece or shank spring can be made from wood, metal, fibreglass or plastic and consists of a piece approximately 10cm long and 1.5 cm wide. The shank spring lies within the bridge or waist of the shoe, i.e. between heel and ball corresponding to the medial and lateral arches. The shankpiece reinforces the waist of the shoe and prevents it from collapsing or distorting in wear. The contour of the shank is determined by heel height. Shoes with low heels or wedged soles do not require a shank because the torque between the rear and forefoot does not distort the shoe.

Heel

The heel is the raised component under the rear of the shoe. Heels consist of a variety of shapes, heights, and materials and are made of a series of raised platforms or a hollowed section. The part of the heel next to sole is usually shaped to fit the heel, this is called the heel seat or heel base. The heel breast describes front face of the heel. The ground contact section is called the top piece. Heels raise the rear of the shoe above the ground. A shoe without a heel or midsole wedge may be completely flat. When the heel section sits lower than the forefoot the style is called a 'negative heel'.

Welt

The strip of material which joins the upper to the sole. Most shoes will be bonded by Goodyear-welted construction. Some shoes use an imitation welt stitched around the top flat edge of the sole for decorative purposes, but it is not a functional part of the shoe.

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Pre-Assembly:-1. Production Order2. Die Cut3. Manual Preparation4. Stitching5. Sole Assembly6. Toe Lasting7. Heel lasting8. Auto Scribing9. Trim & Edge10. Sole Attachment11. Cleaning12. Packing13. Assembly

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The Production process consists of eight steps. A more detail description of the process follows hereafter

Molding:

The molding process takes the leather and sole and gives it their form. The soles are created from various layers of material; hence in the molding stage, various layers are molded to form a single sole. There are different ways in which the molding machines can do this and each machine is configured to do so in one particular way. There are a total of 10 moulding machines present on the production floor. Their names are Moulder-001 to Moulder-010 and their machine numbers and setup and operating costs can be found in the table Machine Master of the production database.

Cutting: After the moulding process the molded leather and soles go to the cutter

section. The cutting machines cut the leather and sole into its desired forms. There are different ways in which the cutting machines can do this and each machine is configured to do so in one particular way. There are a total of 10 cutting machines present on the production floor. Their names are Cutter-001 to Cutter-010 and their machine numbers and setup and operating costs can be found in the table Machine Master of the production database.

Punching:

After the cutting process, the leather and soles need to get punched into certain shapes to be able to fit them together properly. This is done in punching machines. There are different ways in which the punching machines can do this and each machine is configured to do so in one particular way. There are a total of 10 punching machines present on the production floor. Their names are Puncher-001 to Puncher-010 and their machine numbers and setup and operating costs can be found in the table Machine Master of the production database.

Gluing:

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After the punching process, the leather and soles are glued together. This is done in gluing machines. There are different ways in which the gluing machines can do this and each machine is configured to do so in one particular way. There are a total of 10 gluing machines present on the production floor. Their names are Glue-001 to Glue-010 and their machine numbers and setup and operating costs can be found in the table Machine Master of the production database.

Sewing:

To get an even better fit between the sole and the leather, after they are glued together they are sewed together as well. This is done in sewing machines. There are different ways in which the sewing machines can do this and each machine is configured to do so in one particular way. There are a total of 10 sewing machines present on the production floor. Their names are Sew-001 to Sew-010 and their machine numbers and setup and operating costs can be found in the table Machine_Master of the production database.

Imprint:

The shoe's labels are imprinted and attached to the shoes in the imprint process. There are different ways in which the imprint machines can do this and each machine is configured to do so in one particular way. There are 10 imprint machines on the production floor. Their names are Imprint-001 to Imprint-010 and their machine numbers and setup and operating costs can be found in the table Machine Master of the production database.

Accessory: The shoe's laces and attachments are attached to the shoes by Attachment

machines. There are different ways in which the accessory machines can do this and each machine is configured to do so in one particular way. There are a total of 10 machines. Their names are Accessory-01 to Accessory-10 and their machine numbers and setup and operating costs can be found in the table Machine Master of the production database.

Packaging: Before the shoes can be shipped to the distribution centers and to the

customers, they are packed in shoe boxes. This is done in two packaging machines, Package-01 and Package-02 and their machine numbers and setup and operating costs can be found in the table Machine Master.

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Production RoutingThe sequence of the production process is for each shoe the same. Every

shoe goes to the molding section first, then to the cutter section, puncher section, glue section, sew section, imprint section, imprint section, accessory section and finally to the package section. However, as there are different machine types in each section, every shoe has a different path. Which machine each shoe goes to in each section is defined in the Assign tables of the production database (Mould Assign, Cut Assign, etc.). These tables contain the 557 shoe numbers, the machine number indicating which machine it goes to in that particular section and the average duration of that production step for that particular shoe type.

A summary of the information in the Assign tables can be found in the Routings Master table. This table contains all the shoe numbers, and for production process sequence (1 to 7), the machine number each shoe is supposed to go to and its average duration. In the next figure the plant layout can be seen.

From this figure it can be seen that the first step in the production process is the molder section. The molder section takes leather and soles from the local stock and converts them in their proper forms. This 'product' then goes to the next production step for further refurbishment. As you can see, in between each production step there is a temporary stock. This stock is needed to account for unexpected breakdowns and other production problems and minimizes the chances of having serious production losses. The transportation of the 'partial product' to the temporary stocks is done by a conveyor belt. These conveyor belts pass through the center of each production section and take the 'partial products' from the machine to the temporary stock. This process is more or less the same for each section. However, the location of local raw materials stock is different for each section, as can be seen in the figure.

You can imagine that it is impossible to produce 557 different shoes at the same time. This would mean that each machine (and its operator) would produce approximately 50 different shoes on a daily basis. In reality this isn't the case. At the WARP shoe company the 557 different shoes are produced by means of a batch-process. This means that shoes are produced by 100 types at the time. Each batch process lasts for 3 days. This means that for 3 days WARP will produce 100 types, the next 3 days another 100 types, etc.

The Processing DataThe average processing times for each production process as indicated in the

previous section are based on the Processing Data table of the production database. This table contains 2,005,200 records of processing times for the 557 shoes handled by the 72 machines on the production floor. The processing times are

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expressed in seconds.

Product Demand, Sales Price and Raw Materials PolicyThe demand for each of the 557 shoes for the last 6 years can be found in the

table Product Demand of the production database. Based on these figures estimates can be made about future monthly demand.

In order to be able to produce the needed amount of shoes, an adequate raw materials policy is needed. The actual policy can be summarized by stating that once every 45 days certain raw materials are being ordered in the quantities as stated in the table Order Quantities of the production database. Each time an order is being placed; WARP has to pay CDN 100,000. The monthly holding cost for the raw materials is 10 percent of its cost price. At this moment in time no volume discounts are applicable.

The sales prices of each of the shoes are summarized in table Sales_Prices of the production database. Besides direct production costs (raw materials purchase and holding costs and machine operating costs) the overhead costs (for offices, administration, labor and other purposes) are 16 percent of the direct production costs.

Warehouses and Distribution CentersWhenever the shoes are finished and put in their respective boxes, they are

taken to 9 different warehouses. The names, capacities (expressed in pairs of shoes), distances (in kilometers) from the production plant to these warehouses and monthly operating costs can be found in the table Warehouse Master of the production database. From these warehouses the shoes must be taken to the distribution centers. The distances (in kilometers) from the 9 warehouses to the distribution centers and route numbers can be found in table Warehouse Distance.

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There are many ways to attach the sole to the upper but commercially only a few methods are preferred. Shoes were traditionally made by moulding leather to a wooden last. Modern technology has introduced many new materials and mechanised much of the manufacture. Remarkable as it may seem the manufacture of shoes remains fairly labour intensive. No matter the type of construction the first stage in construction is to attach the insole to the undersurface of the last. Two main operations follow. Lasting describes the upper sections are shaped to the last and insole. Followed by Bottoming, where the sole is attached to the upper. The process of bottoming will determine price, quality and performance of the shoe.

Cement

Alternative names include: 'Stuck on construction’ and the 'Compo Process'.

For lightweight and flexible footwear the outsole is stuck to the upper by an adhesive. Bonwelt is a variation with its distinguishing feature being a strip of welting attached by stitching or cementing to the top edge of the insole. The shoe is then flat lasted. This is not a true welt construction wherein the welt is attached to the rib of the insole.

Goodyear Welt

For high quality dress and town shoes the top section (or welt) is chain stitched to the upper and insole rib at the point where it curves under the last. This is supplemented by a lockstitch outseam bonding the welt and outsole. The outsole is then sewn to the welt around the edge. Goodyear Welt creates heavier less flexible footwear.

Stitchdown

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Alternative names include: Veldt or veldschoen

A cheaper method used to produce lightweight flexible soles for children's shoes and some casual footwear describes the upper turned out (flanged) at the edge of the last. This is then stitched to the runner. In some countries it is known as 'veldt' and 'veldtschoen.'

Mocassin

Thought to be the oldest shoe construction this consists of a single layer section, which forms the insole, vamp and quarters. The piece is moulded upwards from the Under surface of the last. An apron is then stitched to the gathered edges of the vamp and the sole is stitched to the base of the shoe. This method is used for flexible fashion footwear. The imitation moccasin has a visual appearance of a moccasin but does not have the wrap around construction of the genuine moccasin.

Molded Methods

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The lasted upper is placed in a mould and the sole formed around it by injecting liquid synthetic soling material (PVC, urethane). Alternatively, the sole may be vulcanised by converting uncured rubber into a stable compound by heat and pressure. When the materials in the moulds cool the sole-upper bonding is complete. These methods combine the upper permanently into the sole and such shoes cannot therefore be repaired easily. Moulded methods can be used to make most types of footwear.

Force Lasting

Alternative names include: The Strobel-stitched method (or sew in sock)

Force lasting has evolved from sport shoes but is increasingly used in other footwear. The Strobel-stitched method (or sew in sock) describes one of many force lasting techniques. The upper is sewn directly to a sock by means of an overlooking machine (Strobel stitcher) The upper is then pulled (force lasted) onto a last or moulding foot. Unit soles with raised walls or moulded soles are attached to completely cover the seam. This technique is sometimes known as the Californian process or slip lasting.

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Materials Used

Shoes are made from the best materials we are able to source.

The uppers are a high-tech synthetic microfibre material which is breathable and very durable. The material is also water-resistant, lightweight, supple and easy to maintain. In most circumstances its performance is superior to leather. Microfibre material is made from a blend of polyamide fibres & polyurethane.

For most of our shoe styles we line the inside of the shoe with hard wearing woven fabrics which are designed to draw moisture away from the skin.

Out-soles (i.e. the part that touches the ground) are generally rubber or rubber resin. We use the most durable grades of these materials that we can source. Many of our men’s shoes & unisex boots have Vibram brand soles, probably the worlds most well know high quality out-soles.

In-soles (the part that your feet rest on) are made from high grade cellulose shoe board, bonded to soft, shock absorbent, non-compressible Poron foot beds. Poron is the best (& most expensive) cushioning material we know of. Most of our flat soled shoes & boots also have a micro-cell rubber mid-board.

Leather

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Animal skin that has been chemically modified to produce a strong, flexible material that resists decay. Almost all the world output of leather is produced from cattle hides and calfskins, goatskins and kidskins, and sheepskins and lambskins. Other hides and skins used include those of the horse, pig, kangaroo, deer, reptile, seal, and walrus.

Leather is used for a wide range of products. The variety of skins and the way they are processed can produce leather as soft as cloth or as hard as a shoe sole. Cattle hides, the major raw material for leather production, range from being lightweight and supple to tough and strong. Tough hides are used in the production of the durable leather required for soles of shoes, machine belting, engine gaskets, and harnesses. Calfskin is lighter and finer grained, and is used for making fine leather suitable for such articles as shoe uppers. Sheepskin is soft and supple; it yields the type of leather suitable for gloves, jackets, and other apparel. Since ancient times, human beings have used animal skins and learned to make leather. The process of using chemicals to turn skins into leather is called tanning.

CURING

The raw materials used by the leather industry originate largely as by-products of the meat-packing industry. Before entering the tanning process, the raw skins are "cured" by salting or drying them promptly after being removed from the slaughtered animal. The more common methods used in curing require the use of salt (sodium chloride) in one of two ways: wet-salting or brine-curing. In wet-salting, the skins are liberally salted and piled on top of one another until they form a pack. They are left in the pack for about 30 days to allow the salt to thoroughly penetrate the skin. Brine-curing is a much quicker method. In agitated brine-curing, the method most commonly used, skins are placed in large vats called raceways that contain a disinfectant and brine maintained close to full salt saturation. After about 16 hours in the raceway, the skins are completely penetrated by the salt.

SOAKING AND UNHAIRING

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The cured skins are soaked in pure water to eliminate salt, blood, and dirt, and also to replace moisture lost in the curing process. After the skins have soaked for a period varying from two hours to seven days, the flesh is removed mechanically from the inner surface. To loosen the hair, the skins are then immersed for one to nine days in a solution of lime and water containing a small amount of sodium sulfide. Following this operation the hair is easily removed by a dehairing machine, and the distinctive pattern known as the grain can be distinguished on the outer surface of the skin. To ensure clear, clean surfaces, any remaining flesh and hair is scraped off, usually by hand with a dull knife, by a process called scudding.

DELIMING AND BATING

The next operation involves deliming the skins by soaking them in a weak solution of acid, which reduces the swelling caused by the lime. Simultaneously, most types of skins are treated with a "bating" material consisting of enzymes to give a smoother grain and render the skin soft and flexible. The amount of bating varies greatly, from none at all for sole leather to a concentrated treatment for leather to be used in kidskin gloves. After the deliming and bating operations, the stock can be tanned.

Each type of skin may be treated by several tanning processes. The process is chosen according to the use for which the leather is intended. The two principal tanning processes are mineral, or chrome, tanning, and vegetable tanning. Chrome tanning often can be completed in a single day, whereas vegetable tanning requires many weeks or months. Vegetable tanning results in a firmer leather with greater water and stretch resistance. Chrome tanning shrinks the stock and produces a longer-wearing leather with greater resistance to heat. The processes are sometimes combined to derive some of the advantages of each.

VEGETABLE TANNING

In this process the tanning agent, which renders the skin immune to decay and prevents shrinkage, is a substance known as tannin. Tannin is extracted from the bark, wood, fruit, and leaves of trees. Chestnut wood, oak bark, and hemlock bark are the major domestic sources of the tannin used by the United States leather industry. Foreign sources, which provide more than 80 percent of the tannin supply, include the wood of the quebracho tree of South America, mangrove bark from the island of Borneo, wattle bark from South Africa, and myrobalan fruit from India.

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In vegetable tanning the hides are suspended from rocking frames in a series of vats containing increasingly stronger tannin solutions, called liquors. After several weeks the hides are transferred to a "layaway" section, which consists of larger vats containing still stronger liquors. Each week more tannin is added to the liquor, until the hides have absorbed enough tannin to complete the process. The last stages of the process may be Flexible vegetable-tanned leathers to be used for belting, luggage, upholstery, or harnesses are less heavily tanned than the leather intended for shoe soles.

MINERAL TANNING The mineral tanning process is known as chrome tanning because the tanning agent used most frequently is a salt compound of chromium. accelerated by the use of warm liquors. Flexible vegetable-tanned leathers to be used for belting, luggage, upholstery, or harnesses are less heavily tanned than the leather intended for shoe soles.

MINERAL TANNING The mineral tanning process is known as chrome tanning because the tanning agent used most frequently is a salt compound of chromium. Chrome-tanned leathers, which stretch more than vegetable-tanned leathers, are suitable for handbags, shoe uppers, gloves, and garments.

To prepare the stock for chrome tanning, the bated skins are pickled in a solution of salt and acid. The skins are then immersed in a basic chromium-sulfate solution within a large revolving drum that tumbles the skins. This type of liquor penetrates the skins so rapidly that tannage is accomplished in less than a day. The chrome process originally involved the use of two different liquors, both solutions of compounds of chromium, and required substantially more time. Known as the two-bath process, it is still used for some varieties of leather. Aluminum or zirconium compounds may be used in place of chromium in the production of white leather. Alum, formaldehyde, gluteraldehyde, and synthetic tannins (Syntans) are also used to impart special characteristics.

In the production of combination-tanned leather, the skin is first chrome-tanned and then retained with vegetable tannins. The modified applications of both processes produce leather with some of the advantages of each type.

LUBRICATION AND DYEING

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After tanning, all types of leather undergo various operations that differ according to the use of the desired product. Vegetable-tanned leather for shoe soles is first bleached a lighter color. Next, it is infused with such materials as epsom salts, oils, and glucose, and then lubricated with hot emulsions of soap, greases, and sometimes wax. Finally, the stock is run through rolling machines to give the leather a desired degree of firmness and a high gloss. Chrome-tanned leather intended for shoe uppers is split and shaved to the desired uniform thickness. It is then placed in a rotating drum for the dyeing process, which usually involves the use of several types of coloring materials to achieve color fastness and durability. Before or after dyeing, the leather is rolled in a "fat liquor," which contains emulsified oils and greases. More than 100 leather colors exist, ranging from traditional tans and browns to such exotic shades as fuchsia and turquoise.

After dyeing and fat-liquoring, the stock is stretched for drying. Workers paste the stock on frames made of glass or ceramics or "toggle" it on perforated metal frames. The frames are then conveyed through drying tunnels with controlled heat and humidity.

FINISHINGHeavy leathers are finished by coating the grain surface with a finishing compound, and finally by brushing it under a revolving, brush-covered cylinder. The grain surface of light leathers is buffed, or sandpapered, to correct imperfections in the skin. Buffing the flesh side of leather raises the nap and produces the popular leather known as suede. For smooth finishes, most light leather is seasoned, or treated with a mixture of such materials as waxes, shellac or emulsified synthetic resins, dyes, and pigments. Pigments are used sparingly to avoid a painted look. Glazing gives the grain a highly polished surface. Several coats of thick, oily varnish are required to give patent leather its characteristic high gloss.

LEATHER SUBSTITUTES Today, many artificial substances are produced and sold as "leather goods." These modern synthetics include such plastics as polyvinyl chloride and nonwoven fibers impregnated with binders. These materials lack leather's porous quality, pliable nature, and resilience. However, the artificial materials cost less to produce than leather and have come to command a large share of the leather market, particularly in shoe soles.

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Boot and shoe making machines come in complete structure, which blends beautifully in shoe shops thus adding to the beauty of the shop. It is ideally used in shoes making factory & modern shoes repairing shops.

There are multi-functions in one machine and comes with salient features like polishing, waxing, trimming and also can be made available with special designs pressing moulding, noiseless operation, low rate of failure and with many other features suiting different shoe purposes. It is labor saving, highly accurate and efficient machine that is capable of making all types of boot and shoes with ease.

There is manual as well as automatic shoe making machine. It also comes with dual operations like shoe and boot making and also repairing shoe operation.

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Automatic Heel Upper-Binding Machine Model Number: HY-727A

Features:

1) Production: 2500pairs/8hr

2) Power: 2HP

3) Hydraulic: 142L

4) Electro heat: 400W

Inner packing: Dimensions: 1200 x 760 x 1420mm

Outer packing: Dimensions: 1270 x 820 x 1680mm

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_________________________________________________________________________________

Auto Upper Molding Machine Model Number: HY-619A

Features:

1) Production: 2000pairs/8hr

2) Voltage: 220V / 50Hz

3) Weight: 400kg

4) Electro heat: 1.2KW

5) Air pressure: 0.6Mpa

Inner packing: Dimensions: 740 x 770 x 1650mm

Outer packing: Dimensions: 740 x 770 x 1650mm

Computerized Hydraulic Automatic Toe Machine Model Number: HY-737C

Features:

1) Production: 2500pairs/8hrs

2) Power: 2HP

3) Hydraulic: 142L

4) Electro heat: 1kW

Inner packing: Dimensions: 1810 x 1000 x 1950mm

Outer packing: Dimensions: 1920 x 1030 x 2120mm

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Automatic Upper Molding Machine

Model Number: HY-618B

Features:

1) Production: 2000pairs/8hr

2) Air pressure: 0.6Mpa

3) Electro heat: 0.2KW

4) Weight: 400kg

5) Voltage: 220V / 50Hz

Inner packing: Dimensions: 740 x 770 x 1650mm

Outer packing: Dimensions: 740 x 770 x 1650mm

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Plant Maintenance Services is a collection of processes that evaluate, develop, and sustain world-class maintenance. Whether we work along side you, or you select our proven and complete turn-key system, we can evaluate, develop, and sustain proactive and preventive maintenance at your plant. The following

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implementation steps are designed to offer a comprehensive maintenance solution for your facility:

Step 1: Maintenance Evaluation Process

Examine maintenance organization, processes and practices

Review maintenance files / records / history

Interview plant personnel in management, maintenance and operations

Formulate preliminary findings and recommendations.

Prepare written report on findings and recommendations.

Conduct an on-site review of the evaluation report and action plan. Discuss cost / benefit analysis along with activities, timeline, and appropriate resources.

Step 2: Master Planning ⇒ Effectively charts a course for maintenance improvement using a custom approach.

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⇒ Supports your facility’s short-range operating plan and long-range goals.

⇒ Addresses the gap between the activities of the organization and the capabilities of the maintenance organization to support those activities.

⇒ The master plan covers organizational, system, selection, and work order scheduling are reviewed. material, facility, equipment, and procedural shortfalls. Milestone measurement meetings are held monthly, quarterly, or annually.

⇒ During the planning process key factors such as inventory management, change management, reliability programs, CMMS

Step 3: Maintenance Improvement Program (MIP)

o Program Definition – in this phase a strategy is developed that sets the direction and vision for successful maintenance.

o Program Development – during program development written objectives, goals, and targets are established for maintenance. They are supportive of the maintenance master plan and the company long range plan.

o Program Implementation – execution of the detailed master plan that includes tasks, timelines, resources, and milestones. Regular reviews of the implementation are conducted to measure progress.

1. The shoes produce by the company is sold at cheaper rate.2. The raw material used in the production is of medium quality.

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3. 30000 pairs should be produce in one month4. Only 80 worker work in this project 5. From 80 worker 40 worker are skilled worker & 40 are unskilled worker 6. Skilled worker are charged Rs.150 per day & unskilled worker is charged Rs.100 per day7. Only 40 sewing machine will use for this production8. The output of per sewing machine is 25 pairs per day9. Other charges will be taken on the assumption basis

Example for the cost of raw materials

Leather: 6000m leather will be required for production of shoes. Leather used in the

production of shoes is medium quality, the total cost of leather is Rs30,00000. Sole:-

30,000 sole will be required for producing shoes. The total cost of sole is Rs15, 00,000. Paste:-

1000 bottle of paste required for production of shoes the total cost for paste is Rs. 85,000/-

Thread:-Rs 3000/- will be spend on thread

Shoe Polish:-Rs3000/- will spend on the purchase of polish for shoe

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Labour cost:- 40 skilled worker will worker work on this project company ,so the monthly

salary of all the skilled workers will be 1,80,000, and for the unskilled the cost of the salary will be 1,20,000. So the total salary cost for the company will be 300000

Decoration MaterialThe cost for the decoration material will be Rs. 50,000 it includes Stickers,

welcrow etc.

Transport cost:-

The transport cost for the production of shoes will be 1,00,000

Other cost:-

The total cost for the production of shoes will be Rs50,000

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From the above cost sheet we can observe that the:- PRIME COST:- 46,91,000 COST OF TOTAL PRODUCTION:- 49,91,000 COST OF SALE:- 50,91,000

So the price per pair of shoes is Rs.169.7,but company decide to charge Rs50 as profit on the per pair of shoes, so the total profit on the total production is Rs.15,00,000, So the total cost for production of shoes is Rs.65,91,000

Particulars Amount AmountDirect material cost 46,41,000(+) Direct wages 50,000 PRIME COST 46,91,000(+) Labour cost 3,00,000 COST OF PROUCTION 4991000(+) Transport cost 1,00,000 TOTAL COST OF SALE 5091000 (+) PROFIT (the company decided to charge Rs,50 as a profit for per pair of shoes

1500,000

SALE 65,91,000

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Company wise trends in sales (Rupees in Crores)

2002-2003 2003-2004 Bata India 603.64 617.42Liberty 63.64 185.87Mirza tanners 129.59 153.38Lakhani footwear 100.11 119.96Avanti leathers 0.73 0.96Lakhani footwear 8.43 8.43Relaxo rubber 18.37 18.37Relaxo footwear 71.49 107.65

Market Share (%)

2002-2003 2003-2004Bata India 11.52 11.51Liberty Shoes 1.21 3.46Mirza Shoes 2.47 2.86Lakhani India 1.91 2.24Avanti Leather 0.01 0.02Lakhani Footwear 0.16 0.16Relaxo Rubber 0.35 0.34Relaxo Footwear 1.36 2.01

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BibliographyThis Project is referred from following out sources

Theoretical Aspects:-Books name:- World Encyclopedia

--- BRITANNICA

Web site:- www.google.com www.yahoo.com

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