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Editor’s Letter

12

Emma Cheevers

Welcome to Madrid

This SHOP guide will help you discover all

that Madrid has to ofer, including the best

luxury department stores, boutiques and

concept stores, as well as recommendations

for restaurants, bars and special places to visit.

In this edition, we also explore the synergy

between art and fashion in Spain (turn to page

42). The new Global Blue mobile app is a

great way to fnd the very latest on your chosen

destination – there are more details in our news

section on page 38.

As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free

Shopping market leader, SHOP publishes

essential guides to over 40 destinations

across Europe and Asia. For the very latest

information, visit our website, globalblue.com,

or email me at [email protected].

Claiming your tax savings is even easier with

the new Global Blue Card – signing up is free

and you can fnd all the details on the Global

Blue website.

Athens and Thessaloniki

Austria

Barcelona

Belgium

Berlin

Buenos Aires

Cologne

Copenhagen

Cyprus

Чехия

Düsseldorf

Estonia

Frankfurt

French Riviera

دليل ألانيا

德国指南

Руководство Германия

Gothenburg

Hamburg

Hanover

Helsinki Area

Holland

Iceland

Istanbul

Italy

Lake Saimaa

Lebanon

London

Madrid

Milan

Munich

Naples

Oslo

Paris

Portugal

Prague

Riga

Rimini and Riccione

Rome

Singapore

Stockholm

Stuttgart

Switzerland

Vienna

Vilnius

ILLU

ST

RAT

ION

: pA

UL

x j

Oh

NS

ON

/globalblue

/globalblue/globalblue

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

@GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

Contributors

14

globalblue.com

ILL

US

TR

AT

ION

: MA

RÍA

CO

RT

E

María Corte

María Corte created this season’s

cover illustration for SHOP

Madrid. Her graphic artwork has

previously been commissioned

by Apartamento, BBC Music

magazine and Artafacta, among

others. Her surrealist sensibility

and use of curved shapes makes

her a perfect illustrator for this

cover, inspired by our feature

about Madrid’s long association

of art with fashion on page 42.

It shows a painting hung as though

it was also an item of clothing.

Read more about our cover

illustrations at globalblue.com/covers

Karen Munnis

Writer and fashion stylist Karen

Munnis has contributed to the

Hufngton Post, Motilo.com,

Fashion magazine and the Globe

& Mail. Her stylist clients include

Sony Music, Britain and Ireland’s

Next Top Model, MTV and the

BBC; her work has also appeared

in Hunger TV, Boys by Girls,

J’N’C, Velour and Glamour.

Verity Hogan

After working for a Mexican

magazine and reporting in

Romania, history graduate Verity

Hogan swapped writing about

crinolines and corsets for more

contemporary clothes when she

moved to London to pursue a

career in journalism. She now

works as SHOP’s city guide and

lifestyle editor.

PH

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Shop Floor

16

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

PU BL I SH I NGPublisherJames Morris

Digital manager Eamonn Leacy

Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo

Product manager Luca Russo

Project manager Omar Haque

International digital marketing executiveNina Kobalia

Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet

Advertising and partnership managerRiccardo Canini

Distribution project manager Claudia Suárez

Print Dane Consultancy

GL OBA L BLU E E SPA ÑACountry managerLuis J Llorca

VP salesTomás Mostany

Marketing manager Paloma Lucas

International key account managersStefano Cardinale, Richard Harvey, Sabrina Schiavone, Noureddine Tliba

Key account managersMagdalena Campos, Llorenc Ollé

Sales managerLuis Ramiro

Account managers Joan Cadevall, Juan Antonio Calderón, Arancha Suardiaz

Support Susana Sacristán

Global Blue España SA, Manuel Tovar 1 4o,28034 Madrid,Spain

Online editor Kirsty Welsh

Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound

Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh

Online assistantsMarina Nelson, Emily Scrivener

Commercial editor Justine Clifton

Commercial artworkerLaura Soler

Commercial artworking assistantDan O’Brien

Chinese editor Yuan Fang

Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou

Chinese assistant editor Hongying Xu

Chinese fashion editorJiafei Fei

Chinese contributing editorQingya He

Chinese translators Bingjie Ao, Yinzhang Lin, Jun Liu, Shi Yin, Yi Zhang

Chinese intern Daniel Huang

Russian editorAnastasia Nemchenok

Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova

Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko

Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank

Russian translatorsTeena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto

SHOP is published by Global Blue

Group headquartersGlobal Blue SA,Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland

Corporate registration number5565726923

[email protected]

E DI TOR I A L

Editor-in-chiefEmma Cheevers

Managing editorSally McIlhone

Cover illustratorMaría Corte

ContributorKaren Munnis

Production editorCaterina Mazzolai

Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard

Features editorStephen Doig

City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan

Fashion and news editorDominique Fenn

Assistant fashion and market editorXimena Daneri

Assistant fashion and news editorsHannah Lewis,Isabella Redmond Styles

Fashion assistantGemma Latham

Editorial internsIndia Block, Sammy Ha

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey

Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat,Ann Morphew

Picture editor Dorcas Brown

Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts

Picture assistantsGrace Bird, Mónica Goya

ArtworkerAdam Dhaliwal

Artworking assistants Harveen Ghattaure,Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau

The paper in this brochure is elemental chlorine free and is PEFC accredited. It is printed to ISO 14001 environmental procedures, using vegetable based inks.The PEFC Council (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certifcation schemes) is an independent, non-proft, non-governmental organisation which promotes responsible management of the world’s forests. Forest certifcation is combined with a product labelling that allows consumers to readily identify timber-based products from certifed forests.

08-02-13

Contents

18

p.42

Above: Ágatha Ruiz de la Prada is one of many Spanish fashion designers inspired by art

Produc ts

22 Check Out

sHoP selects a standout piece

from Madrid this season

26 My Favourites

María José Martínez

caballero of beauty company

Archangela reveals her top

tips for spring/summer 2014

28 Products

Key looks for the season,

from fashion and footwear

to jewellery and accessories

N e ws

34 Shop Window

one store not to be missed

in Madrid

36 News

seasonal updates on shops,

services and new products

F e At u r e s

42 Cover Story:

The Art Of Dressing

spain’s fashion world has

long been inspired by its

artists, and vice versa,

says Karen Munnis

Contents

20

E x pE r i E ncE

52 Raising The Bar

Madrid’s wine bars ofer

something for all tastes,

says Verity Hogan

60 Stay In Style

SHOp’s guide to the world’s

most exclusive hotels

GU i DE

65 Maps and guides to the key

shopping areas of Madrid,

plus SHOp’s unique view

of the city’s sights

p.72

E SSE n T i A L S

79 How To Shop Tax Free

The simple steps to saving

money on your shopping

T r A nSL AT iOnS

82 Русский

84 中文

86 日本語翻訳

SOU V E n i r

88 The essential item to

bring home

Above: Man 1924 ofers exquisite tailoring

22 | PRODUCTS

Check Out

Save up to 15.7% by shopping tax free, see page 79

several pieces, and the irresistible

range of accessories also comple-

ments these playful shades. Our

pick is these cool, contemporary

sandals; the chiselled heel and

shape gives them a thoroughly

modern feel, while the multico-

loured bands and metallic fnish

add a welcome sense of fun and

frivolity. irs

Missoni sandals, €750,

Missoni, Calle de Lagasca 70,

28001 Madrid,

+34 91 578 1678,

missoni.com

* for map go to page 70

SHAPE OF SUCCESS

Inspired by the elements – water,

earth, fre and air – designer

Angela Missoni’s latest womens-

wear collection includes plenty of

the Italian house’s signature woven

knitwear, as well as incorporating

luxurious touches such as lace,

printed silks and nappa leather.

The vibrant palette of fuchsia,

electric blue and tangerine mirrors

the use of Japanese pop prints on


María José Martínez Caballero is the founder

of the luxury beauty line Archangela, which

uses the best active ingredients that nature has

to ofer. The Madrid-based brand is stocked

in various stores in Spain and is a popular

choice for those looking for skin-friendly and

sustainable products. She shares her Madrid

recommendations with SHOP’s Ximena Daneri

archangela.es

My Favourites: María José Martínez Caballero

26 | PRODUC TS

1. ‘Jeweller Isidoro

Hernández is one of

my favourite places.

It’s a small shop

where the designs

always surprise me.

The combination

of stones and original

mounts makes

its pieces unique

and spectacular’

Isidoro Hernández

earrings, €2,890, Isidoro Hernández, Calle de Claudio Coello 38, 28001 Madrid, +34 91 781 2053, isidorohernandezjoyas.com

1

globalblue.com

SHOP | 27

2. ‘I love Marni; I

like to stop at its store

in the Salamanca

neighbourhood to

look for clothes and

accessories with

character, colour

and quality’

Marni handbag, €910, Marni, Calle de Gurtubay 5, 28001 Madrid, +34 91 577 7568, marni.com

4. ‘My signature scent

is a citrus fragrance

from Carthusia, an

Italian brand that has

delicious perfumes.

You can fnd it at

Nadia; I always fnd

a fne selection of

products there’

Carthusia Mediterraneo

perfume, €85, Nadia, Calle de Velázquez 46, 28001 Madrid, +34 91 431 7457, carthusia.it

3. ‘Besides our

Crema de Arroz,

Malva y Vid Roja,

which is timeless, I

love our new eye and

lip contour cream’

Archangela Crema

de Arroz, Malva y Vid

Roja, €128, Le Secret du Marais, Calle Hortaleza 75, 28004 Madrid, +34 91 310 0133, archangela.es

2

4

3

28 | PRODUCTS


EXPLORE IN STYLE

Complete your outft with clever travel essentials

1. Etro Foulard swimming trunks,

€225, Etro, Calle de Jorge Juan 9,

28001 Madrid, +34 91 781 1309,

etro.com

2. Boss backpack, €319,

Boss Store, Calle de José Ortega y Gasset

22-24, 28006 Madrid, +34 91 426 1870,

hugoboss.com

3. Louis Vuitton harmonica, €950,

Louis Vuitton, Calle de José Ortega y

Gasset 17, 28006 Madrid,

+34 91 575 1308, louisvuitton.com

4. Ermenegildo Zegna bracelets, €180

each, Ermenegildo Zegna,

Calle de Serrano 21, 28006 Madrid,

+34 91 435 9565, zegna.com

1 4

2 5

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SHOP | 29

globalblue.com

5. Montblanc Timewalker Voyager

UTC watch, €3,170, Montblanc,


+34 91 436 4490, montblanc.com

6. Bally foldaway nylon jacket with

pouch, €435, Bally, Calle de Hermosilla

11, 28001 Madrid, +34 91 435 8205,

bally.com

7. Loewe espadrilles, €350, Loewe,


+34 91 577 6056,

loewe.com

8. Alain Afelou sunglasses, €39,

Alain Afelou, Calle Gran Vía 45,

28013 Madrid, + 34 91 758 6815,

alainafelou.com

6

7 8

30 | PRODUCTS


1. Cos dress, €99,

Cos, Calle de Claudio Coello 53-55,

28001 Madrid, +34 91 781 5840,

cosstores.com

2. Miu Miu necklace, €950, Miu Miu,

Calle de Claudio Coello 72,

28001 Madrid, +34 91 781 9950,

miumiu.com

3. Jimmy Choo Alia shoes, €750,

Jimmy Choo, Calle de José Ortega y

Gasset 15, 28006 Madrid,

+34 91 781 8608, jimmychoo.com

4. Bulgari Serpenti handbag, €1,950,

Bulgari, Calle de Serrano 49,

28006 Madrid, +34 91 575 0141,

bulgari.com

A NEW OPULENCE

1

2

3

4

Whether you prefer soft

pastels or rich jewel tones,

make this the season you

experiment with colour

PH

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32 | PRODUCTS


1. Massimo Dutti shoes, €89.95,

Massimo Dutti, Centro Comercial

Príncipe Pío, Paseo de la Florida s/n,

28008 Madrid, +34 91 541 0807,

massimodutti.com

2. Burberry bag, €795,

El Corte Inglés, Paseo de la Castellana 71

& 85, 28003 Madrid, +34 91 418 8800,

burberry.com

3. Shourouk Lady emerald earrings,

€500, Muïc, Calle de Ayala 10,

28001 Madrid, +34 91 435 7906,

shourouk.com

4. Escada dress, €1,500, Escada,

Calle de José Ortega y Gasset 10,

28006 Madrid, +34 91 577 4188,

escada.com

NAUTICAL

NOW

Give maritime colours

a new sophisticated

edge with elegant

prints and detailing

1

2

3

4

34 | NEWS


Shop Window

Rosa-Violán, visitors will fnd an

impeccable selection of menswear

and accessories from many of the

world’s leading names. Browse

the latest collections from Lanvin,

Maison Martin Margiela, Brioni

and Hogan among others, fra-

grances from luxury brands such

as Amouage and Cuba, and an

impeccable range of eyewear from

Mykita and Moscot. irs

Yusty,

Calle de Serrano 54,

28001 Madrid, +34 91 435 0738,

yusty.es


MADRID FOR THE SMART MAN

Well-respected Spanish brand

Yusty has been keeping Madrid’s

men looking smart for a century

since it was founded by tailor José

Yusty Morales in 1914, and its

newly reopened fagship on Calle

de Serrano should be on every itin-

erary. Inside the refurbished space,

designed by architect Lázaro

MA

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MADRID Serrano, 18 Franchisee MAX&Co.

36 | NEWS


ALL IN STORE

A Spanish institution for more

than 70 years, El Corte Inglés is one

of Europe’s leading department

store chains, selling everything

from the latest womenswear to

gourmet food products. Its fashion

department is home to prestigious

brands such as Bottega Veneta and

Tod’s, while the impressive jewel-

lery and watch selection includes

Rolex, IWC and Cartier. For those

more gastronomically minded, the

very best in Spanish cuisine is on

ofer, both in its restaurants and

the food hall. irs

El Corte Inglés,

Paseo de la Castellana 71 & 85,

28003 Madrid, +34 91 418 8800,

elcorteingles.es


FLOWER POWER

Situated on a quiet side street in

the afuent ‘garden city’ district of

Chamartin, this charming forist

and homeware boutique ofers a

refuge from the hustle of Madrid’s

city-centre streets. Owner Sally

Hambleton recreated a village

feel, similar to her childhood

home. Select some stems from

the array of blooms inside, or ac-

quire some new treasures for your

own home. gl

Sally L Hambleton,

Calle Gabriel Lobo 10,

28002 Madrid, +34 91 562 4709,

sallyhambleton.comPH

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SHOP | 37

globalblue.com

STELLAR STELLA

Known across the world for

her sharp yet feminine tailoring,

Stella McCartney has opened her

second store in Spain. Located

in Madrid’s elegant Salamanca

district, the two-storey boutique

showcases all the label’s latest col-

lections, with women’s ready-to-

wear, accessories, denim, fragranc-

es and childrenswear. The interior

combines natural and more mod-

ern materials such as Perspex with

quirky touches to create an inviting

contemporary efect. irs

Stella McCartney,

Calle de Serrano 62,

28001 Madrid, +34 91 414 2335,

stellamccartney.com

* for map go to page 70PH

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38 | NEWS


SHOP THE WORLD

Using our wealth of insider knowledge,

we have created a smartphone app

to help you to plan your trips. The app

gives information on 45 cities in 22

countries – thousands of stores are listed

and located on maps, with full contact

details and a description of what each

store sells. Our maps guide you right to

the store, step-by-step, from your current

location and can also be downloaded

for offine use. If you’re looking for

something specifc, or a particular brand,

use our search option to locate it – you

can even create your own itinerary. The

app is available in Chinese, English and

Russian, and includes a Tax Refund

Calculator to tell you how much you’ll

save on every purchase you make in

every different country you visit. There are

also instructions on how to use Currency

Choice, our service that allows you to pay

in your home currency.

globalblue.com

Download the Global Blue guide

from the App Store or Play Store

PRINCES OF PRINT

Twin brothers Iñaki and Aitor

Muñoz founded their fashion line

Ailanto in 1995. Drawing inspira-

tion from avant-garde art move-

ments, they combine geometric

patterns with colour to create their

trademark prints. This season

they look to the work of Brazilian

landscape architect Roberto Burle

Marx for their theme; foral motifs

are juxtaposed with constructiv-

ist shapes in colours taken from

Brazilian fora. The result is bold

and distinctive, with pieces that

can be mixed and layered. gl

Ailanto, Calle Orellana 14,

28004 Madrid,

+34 91 702 5514,

ailanto.com

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40 | NEWS


A PERFECT 10

Madrid-based fashion house

Kling has become known for its

cute and kooky pieces, which make

it a hit with stylish señoritas look-

ing to build an individual wardrobe

at an afordable cost. Kling’s motto

is ‘dress for yourself and dress for

fun’, which is refected in the four

collections it releases each year.

The brand, which celebrates its

10th anniversary this year, now has

fve stores in Madrid alone. gl

Kling, Calle de Fuencarral 71,

28004 Madrid, +34 91 521 5779,

kling.es


EXCEPTIONAL EKSEPTION

Ekseption’s Calle de Velázquez

boutique has space for plenty of

top brands, including Balenciaga,

Christian Louboutin, Valentino

and Lanvin. Don’t miss its recently

opened outlet store, with last sea-

son’s looks at discounted prices. ib

Ekseption,

Calle de Velázquez 28,

28001 Madrid, +34 91 577 4353;

Calle Marqués de la Ensenada,

28004 Madrid, +34 91 702 0888,

ekseption.es


SHOP | 43

/ 8482 Opposite: Amaya Arzuaga spring/summer 201486

THE ART

Spain’s fashion world has long been inspired by its artists – and vice versa.

Karen Munnis looks at the stylish legacy of this very special synergy

OF

DRESSING

‘A fashion designer is an artist

born as a designer; fashion is some

kind of art, one way or another,’

says Leonor Pérez Pita, director

of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

Madrid. International designers

such as Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel,

Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton and

Phoebe Philo at Céline may have

produced bold, painterly collec-

tions for spring/summer 2014, but

in Madrid there is a true synergy

between art and the fashion indus-

try, where each continues to infu-

ence and work with the other.

Spanish artists gained interna-

tional recognition early on in their

careers by collaborating with fash-

ion designers. Pablo Picasso and

Coco Chanel famously worked to-

gether in the 1920s on two of Jean

Cocteau’s ballets, with Picasso

designing the stage sets and Cha-

nel the costumes. Salvador Dalí

collaborated with fashion designer

Elsa Schiaparelli, uniting his sur-

realist images with her clothing.

The 1937 Lobster dress was in-

spired by Dalí’s New York Dream

- Man Finds Lobster in Place ofPH

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44 | FEATURES

Above (from lef): Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dalí, 1949; Elsa Schiaparelli’s 1937 Lobster dress

‘Fashion is some kind of art, one way or another’ –Leonor Pérez Pita

Phone; the Shoe hat, which be-gan as a Dalí photograph in 1934, became part of Schiaparelli’s au-tumn/winter 1937/38 collection.

The synergy between the ar-tistic and fashion communities in Madrid fourished during the Movida Madrileña, a counter-culture movement that sprang up following the death of General Franco in 1975. Fashion designer Ágatha Ruiz de la Prada launched her womenswear brand in Madrid in the early 1980s and was an im-portant supporter of the move-ment. ‘The Movida Madrileña was exhilarating proof that Spain was changing,’ she says. ‘The cultural foodgates were thrust open; artists just wanted to be free, creative and to enjoy themselves. I was lucky

to be part of such a dynamic time and generation, where anything seemed possible.’

Growing up in a family of ar-chitects and artists infuenced much of Ruiz de la Prada’s work. ‘When I was a child I wanted to

46 | FEATURES

Above (from lef): designer Ágatha Ruiz de la Prada; Amaya Arzuaga spring/summer 2014

become a painter because my father

was an art collector. I think that is

why art is present in my collections

in an instinctive way. I love War-

hol, Yayoi Kusama, Rothko and

Vasarely,’ she says. She began just

with womenswear, but her bold,

pop-art inspired prints have since

expanded to include menswear and

childrenswear, furniture design,

bed linen and cosmetics ranges.

Madrid-based designer Amaya

Arzuaga looks to soft geometry

and architecture with her work.

For spring/summer 2014 Arzuaga,

whose signature pieces include

micro-mini skirts and structural

shapes, showed a palette of fuchsia,

cream, canary yellow and black.

‘Her designs are architecture,’

says Pérez Pita. ‘The architecture

comes frst. The clean lines and her

use of volume are inspired by the

works of many Spanish architects.’

Vogue Who’s On Next 2013

award winner Juan Vidal studied

painting and fne art in Barcelona

before switching to a career in

fashion design, and art continues

to infuence his collections. ‘There

exists something intangible in art

that infuences my work with co-

lour or contemporary graphic de-

sign,’ he states. ‘Also, the cinema as

an artform is one of my favourite

sources of inspiration for a collec-

tion.’ Each of Vidal’s collections

is named after a female character

type; for next season, it’s Diana the

huntress.

Work from Spanish fashion

greats are housed in Madrid’s

Museo del Traje, its costume and

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48 | FEATURES

Above (from lef): Madrid’s Museo del Traje; a Cristóbal Balenciaga design from the museum

fashion museum, in a building designed by award-winning archi-tects Jaime López de Asiaín and Ángel Díaz Domínguez. When Spain’s fashion industry boomed in the 16th and 17th centuries, so

did its textiles and art. As a result, visitors to the museum can see fragments of the frst Spanish fash-ion magazine, which launched dur-ing this golden era. There are also pieces by Cristóbal Balenciaga, who was born in Getaria in 1895. Balenciaga was heavily infuenced by the works of Spanish masters such as Velázquez and Goya, and often worked with heavy and rich materials, embroidery and em-bellishment as a result. Works by other Spaniards, including Mariano Fortuny, who worked in theatre and lighting before becom-ing famous for his Delphos gown, and Paco Rabanne, who studied

Spanish artists gained recognition by collaborating with fashion designers

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50 | FEATURES

Above: a work by Manuel Fernández in the Westin Palace Madrid

architecture prior to creating his

famous shiny metallic dresses in

the 1960s, are also on display.

Fashion designer Manuel

Fernández launched the Fashion

Art Institute to promote the inter-

action of art and fashion through-

out Spain. His frst collaboration

was with painter Juanjo Castillo.

Since then, instead of showing

on the catwalk, his collections are

housed in galleries and museums

and he works with diferent artists

depending on which city he’s in.

Although Madrid seems to be

a hub where artists infuence fash-

ion, and vice versa, the trend con-

tinues to stretch beyond its borders.

‘I think the art world nowadays,

and always, is aligned with fashion

all over the world,’ says Vidal

agatharuizdelaprada.com,

amayaarzuaga.com,

juanvidal.net,

museodeltraje.mcu.es,

fashionartinstitute.org

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globalblue.com

52 | EXPER IENCE

Drinking wine has long been a signifcant part of Madrid’s night-life culture. Recent years have seen signifcant improvements in irrigation techniques, grape va-rieties and technology and, as a result, even more vineyards and bodegas have opened throughout

Spain. Almost every region in the country produces wine, ranging from the familiar districts, such as Rioja and Ribera del Duero, to the westerly Extremadura and other lesser-known Spanish ap-pellations who rarely export their wines elsewhere.

Raising the BaRMadrid’s traditional taverns and its more modern wine bars are among the city’s

most popular drinking spots thanks to their atmospheric interiors and high-quality

drinks menus. Verity Hogan soaks up the atmosphere at a selection of the very best

SHOP | 53

E n o t A b E R n A P o S A D A D E l l é o n D E o R o

Posada del léon de oro’s exten-sive bar list features more than 300 diferent vintages. Wine also infu-

ences the décor, with bottles lining the walls, while the food menu is designed to enhance the favours of the wine. Enotaberna Posada del Léon

de Oro, Calle Cava baja 12, 28005 Madrid, +34 91 119 1494, posadadellondeoro.com

54 | EXPER IENCE

globalblue.com

V i n o t e c a V i d e s

one of Madrid’s most popular

wine bars, Vinoteca Vides has a

well-deserved reputation for of-

fering the fnest local produce at

surprisingly competitive prices.

the wine list comprises 60 care-

fully chosen vintages, and is avail-

able alongside a diverse selection of

cheeses and iberian hams.

Vinoteca Vides,

calle de la Libertad 12,

28004 Madrid, +34 607 183110,

vinotecavides.es

56 | EXPER IENCE

globalblue.com

T a b e r n a a n T o n i o S Á n c h e z

Since frst opening in 1830, the his-toric antonio Sánchez tavern has undergone very few changes. The interior has a traditional ambience, complemented by a collection of

bullfghting memorabilia. The feel of the restaurant is enhanced by its menu of classic local dishes; be sure to accompany your meal with a glass of Valdepeñas wine. Taberna Antonio Sánchez, calle del Mesón de Paredes 13, 28013 Madrid, +34 91 539 7826,tabernaantoniosanchez.com

T a b e r n a e n T r e V i n o S

Taberna entrevinos has been crafted with fne wines in mind; the space is cosy and inviting yet appropriately refned. The wine list is often described as the best

in Madrid; the selection is impres-sively diverse, featuring vintages from across Spain as well as op-tions from the fnest international vineyards.Taberna Entrevinos, calle Ferraz 36, 28008 Madrid, +34 91 548 3114, entrevinos.net

58 | EXPER IENCE

globalblue.com

R e s t a u R a n t e

t a b e R n e R o s

With its sleek, contemporary inte-

rior and wine list featuring more

than 400 diferent vintages, Res-

taurante taberneros’s appeal is

clear. the restaurant’s modern yet

inviting interior features a warm

colour scheme and classic dark

wood furnishings, ensuring all at-

tention is fxed on the pillar-box

red wine rack.

Restaurante Taberneros,

Calle santiago 9, 28013 Madrid,

+34 91 542 2160,

restaurantetaberneros.es

globalblue.com

60 | EXPER IENCE

Stay in Style

The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities ranging from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spa facilities ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

bathroom, while many have views

across the courtyard garden. The

hotel’s intimate size allows for a

highly personalised service, while

its shared facilities range from a

ftness centre with sauna and

steam bath to an extensive break-

fast bufet.

Hotel München Palace,

Trogerstrasse 21,

81675 Munich,

+49 (0)89 419710,

muenchenpalace.de

Hotel MüncHen PalaceMunich is often described as a

bastion of tradition and the Ho-

tel München Palace refects this,

albeit with the addition of an ar-

ray of modern conveniences.

Each of the hotel’s 74 rooms is

individually decorated in refned

style and has a luxurious marble

E X PE R I E NCE | 61

tryP by WyndHaMFrankFurt With a sought-after location in

Frankfurt city centre, Tryp by

Wyndham Frankfurt is ideally

suited to both business and leisure

travellers. The city’s main attrac-

tions are all within easy reach,

although the hotel ofers a myriad

of in-house facilities, including a

complimentary gym and sauna

and a meeting room designed to

seat up to 20 people. Each of the

hotel’s 142 guestrooms is designed

to encourage relaxation, and comes

equipped with a host of conve-

niences including free Wi-Fi, a cof-

fee maker and a mini refrigerator.

Tryp by Wyndham Frankfurt,

Mainzer Landstrasse 261-263,

60326 Frankfurt,

+49 (0)69 973 2270,

tryphotels.com

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globalblue.com

MeliÁ White house

Set within a luxury apartment

building built in 1936, the Meliá

White House provides a suitably

stylish base in the heart of London.

Each of the hotel’s 581 rooms and

112 apartments boasts a pleasant,

relaxing décor with myriad

original features, while the hotel’s

amenities include two restaurants,

a bar, terrace and ftness centre.

Food enthusiasts will be spoilt for

choice; choose between a casual

meal at The Place or something

more formal at the award-winning

Spanish restaurant L’Albufera.

Meliá White House,

Albany Street,

London NW1 3UP,

+44 (0)20 7391 3000,

melia-whitehouse.com

62 | E X PE R I E NCE

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the Westbury hotel

The Westbury Hotel boasts a cen-

tral location within walking dis-

tance of Dublin’s main attractions,

luxurious facilities and exceptional

service. Every room is modern and

well appointed, ofering everything

from custom-designed furnishings

to premium bathroom products,

while staf are on hand 24 hours a

day to cater to guests’ every need.

The hotel’s amenities are equally

alluring; start the day with a full

Irish breakfast at the Wilde restau-

rant or enjoy afternoon tea in the

gallery, surrounded by Irish works

of art.

The Westbury Hotel,

Grafton Street, Dublin 2,

+353 (0)1 679 1122,

doylecollection.com

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GUIDE | 65

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Guide

Navigating an unfamiliar city is never easy. Global

Blue ofers you the most comprehensive shopping

maps, helping you fnd your way around Madrid with

useful hints and insider information about what to

see, do and buy. For more detailed guides, check out

globalblue.com/madrid or pick up one of our bespoke

shopping maps from your concierge.

globalblue.com

66 | GUIDE

Madrid

P.XX

P.XX

P.XX

Place Of Interest Metro

C. D

EL

CAR

MEN

C.LUNA

C. PEZ

CALLE MAYOR

CALL E ALCALÁ

CALLE ALBERTO AGUILER A

CALLE SAGASTA C

AL

LE

DE

BA

ILÉ

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AN

FR

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CIS

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C. B

AJA D

E S. P

A

BLO

CUESTA DE SAN V I CENTE

CALLE GRAN VÍA

CALLE GR AN VÍA

CA

LLE P

RIN

CE

SA

CA

LLE P

RIN

CE

SA

C. M

ON

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RAC

. PR

EC

IAD

OS

C. SAN JERÓNIMO

CALLE LU

CHA

NA

CALLE DE L A PALMA

C. DEL ARENA L

CA LLE HUERTA S

CALLE COLEGIATA

C . DE MAGD ALENA

CA

LLE TO

LED

O

CALLE SEGOVIA

C

. SA

N B

ER

NA

RD

O

CALLE ATOCHA

CA

LL

E F

UE

NC

AR

RA

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EO

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LA

VIR

GE

N D

EL

PU

ER

TO

CA

LLE HO

RTA

LE

ZA

Plaza deOriente

Plazadel Callao

Plaza de España

Puertadel Sol

PlazaMayor

Glorieta de Ruiz Jiménez Glorieta

de Bilbao

Glorietade Quevedo

Pl. de la Cebada

ALMUDENA

CATHEDRAL

MADRID ROYAL PALACE

SAN ISIDROCATHEDRAL

P.72

P.74

P.74

SHOP | 67

P.XX

P.XX

P.XX

AV

. DE

ME

NÉ

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PE

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YO

CALLE GÉNOVA

CA

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E D

E A

LF

ON

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XII

Pº

DE

L P

RA

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C. ALMIR ANTE

C. B

AR

QU

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C. A

LMA

GR

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Pº DE EDUARDO DATO

C. HERMOSILLA

CALLE AYAL A

CA

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Ó

PA

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O D

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PR

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ÁZ

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CALLE GOYA

CALLE JORGE JUAN

CA

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RÍN

CIP

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GA

RA

C

ALLE DE ALCALÁ

CALLE DON R AMÓN DE LA CRUZ

CA

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AR

VÁ

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C

AL

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CO

ND

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EÑ

ALV

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CALLE O’DONNELL

C ALLE JOSÉ ORTEGA Y GASSET

CALLE JUAN BR AVO

CALLE DIEGO DE LEÓN

PA

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A C

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C. ATOCHA

PA

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Parquedel Retiro

JardínBotánico

PUERTA DE ALCALÁPLAZA

DE CIBELES

PlazaAlonsoMartínez

Plazade Colón

Pza. Cánovasdel Castillo

Plaza del Marqués

de Salamanca

Plaza del Emperador

Carlos V

GlorietaEmilio

Castelar

PRADOMUSEUM

THYSSEN MUSEUM

REINASOFÍA

MUSEUM

P.70

P.71

P.70

globalblue.com

68 | GUIDE

SNAPSHOTS

OF A CITY

‘Madrid is defnitely a place

where things just happen’ -

Paloma Lucas,

Global Blue EspañaP

HO

TO

S: C

AT

RIO

NA

WA

LL

AC

E, E

vE

LyN

HE

AL

Ey

-CA

TH

CA

RT,

AN

d L

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A R

uS

SO

globalblue.com

SHOP | 69

Follow our team

on Instagram

@globalblue and

tag us in your

city photos – you

might see them

in print!

70 | GUIDE

Barrio de Salamanca

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

CA

LLE

DE

NÚ

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CA

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CALLE DE ALCALÁ

CALLE MALDONADO

CALLE DON R AMÓN DE LA CRUZ

CALLE DE PADILL A CALLE DE PADILL A

PA

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CALLE DE VILLANUEVA

CALLE JOSÉ ORTEGA Y GASSET

CALLE DE AYALA

CALLE DE JORGE JUAN

CALLE HERMOSILLA

C. GOYA CALLE GOYA CALLE GOYA

CA

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CALLE JUAN BR AVO CALLE JUAN BR AVO

Plaza delMarqués deSalamanca

● L

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GA

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S.B

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BR

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FELI

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●

● A

BER

CRO

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IE &

FIT

CH

● J

OS

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ÍA R

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● LA OCA LOCA

● EKSEPTION● BCBGMAXAZRIA

● ALQVIMIA

GENERAL OPTICA ●

● DEVERNOIS

H&M ●

● ROSA CLARÁ

ROSA CLARÁ ●

ZARA ●

CARBAL ●JOYEROS

● MASSIMO DUTTI

● M

ISS

ON

I

CUSTO ●OMEGA ●

● WEMPE● STELLA MCCARTNEY● MANOLO BLAHNIK● BODYBELLGENERAL● OPTICA● YUSTY

● ZARA● TOUS

● MARELLA

● PEDRO DEL H.

● LOTTUSSE

MUJI ●

● ADOLFO DOMÍNGUEZ

● GREGORY JOYEROS● ZARA HOME

● NICOL’S

● AGUAYO

● MONTBLANC

● LLADRÓ

SUÁREZ ●JAVIER SIMORRA ●

ULLOA ÓPTICO ●ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ●PUNTO ROMA ●MASSIMO DUTTI ●

PERODRI ●

COTTET ●CORTEFIEL ●

WOMEN’SECRET ●LAUREL ●

BEST ●AGATHA RUIZ DE LA PRADA ●JOYEROS LOS PÉREZ ●

● C

ART

IER

● N

ICO

L’S●

PA

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AI

● J

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Y C

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ADOLFO DOMÍNGUEZ ●

● DIESEL

● BOGGI● FERRARI

● DURÁN

● SANDRO

AUDEMARS PIGUET ●

CHOPARD ●BULGARI ●

● JOYERÍA SUÁREZ● CARMINA

CARMINA ●

● M

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● N

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● P

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●

● LA M

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● H

UGO BOSS

● H

ACKETT

● E

TRO

● K

ENZO

● V

ILEBREQUIN

● C

HURCH’S

JO M

ALO

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●

GA

LLER

Y M

AD

RID

●

● H

&M

● HARMONT & BLAINE

PARQUE DEL

BUEN RETIRO

● MAN 192é

● C

HO

CR

ÓN

JOY

ERO

S● BALLY● ATREZZO

YU

STY

●FO

SCO

●M

. BRA

VO ●

BELSTAFF ●

● Z

AR

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● H

AK

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● T

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● C

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EFIE

L

● W

OM

EN’S

ECR

ET

MIU MIU ●

● BRIONI

● ELENA MIRÓ

● TOMMY HILFIGER

● BOUTIQUE REAL● CORTEFIEL● UTERQÜE● MARINA RINALDI● MAX MARA● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO● DURÁN J.

● YSL● MICHAEL KORS● RABAT● GEOX● MATARRANZ

● BDBA● PRADA● LOEWE

● CAMPER● PEDRO DEL HIERRO● COACH

● FREY WILLE● LONGCHAMP ● MAX & CO● CUSTO● CAROLINA HERRERA

El Corte Inglés

SALVADOR● BACHILLER

SASTRERÍAVELÁZQUEZ ●

● M

ON

ICA

VIN

AD

ER

JOYERÍA● FOLGUERAS● LOTTUSSE

● EKSEPTION

SANDRO ●

● L

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● R

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CAV

ALL

I

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LAV

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●LO

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SELECTED SHOPS IN EL CORTE INGLÉS:

BURBERRYEMPORIO ARMANIESCADAESCADA SPORTFOLLI FOLLIELIU JOLOEWE ACCESSORIES SWAROVSKITAG HEUERTOUS

Global Blue Retailer with China Union Pay Card

Department Store with China Union Pay Card

Featured In This Issue

SHOP Recommendation

P.2

2

P.37

P.34

P.40

P.72

SHOP | 71

DO DESIGN

Do Design constantly evolves,

thanks to its unique commit-

ment to integrating art, fashion

and design in one place. The

store is divided into distinct

sections: one is dedicated to

fashion and accessories, one

features home furnishings and

décor, and another resembles

an art gallery with its selection

of magazines, fanzines and sta-

tionery. The range of brands

refects the shop’s distinctive

nature; expect fashion by Hen-

rik Vibskov, Carin Wester and

Folk ofered alongside home-

ware by labels such as Hay,

Kinto and Iris.

Do Design,

Calle de Fernando VI 13,

28004 Madrid,

+34 91 310 6217,

dodesign.es

CA

LLE DE S

TA E

NG

RA

CIA

C. Z

UR

BA

NO

CALLE DE MARÌA DE GUZMÁN

CALLE DE MAUDES

CALLE R AIMUNDO FERNÁNDEZ VILLAVERDE

CA

LL

E D

E P

ON

ZA

NO

CALLE DE MARÍA DE MOLINA

CALLE DE CRISTÓBAL BORDIÚ

CA

LL

E D

E A

LON

SO

CA

NO

CALLE DE RÍOS ROSAS

CA

LL

E D

E M

OD

ES

TO

LA

FU

EN

TE

CALLE DE JOSÉ ABASCAL

CA

LL

DE

BR

AV

O M

UR

ILLO P

AS

EO

DE

LA

CA

ST

EL

LA

NA

CALLE DE V

ITRUVIO

GlorietaEmilio

Castelar

Pza. Dr.Marañón

GlorietaCuatro

Caminos

Plazade la

RepúblicaArgentina

El Corte Inglés

SELECTED SHOPS IN EL CORTE INGLÉS:

BURBERRYCARAMELOESCADAESCADA SPORT

HERMÉSLIU JOLOEWELOUIS VUITTON NANOSSWAROVSKITAG HEUERTOUS

Castellana

Department StorePlace Of Interest Metro

P.36

72 | GUIDE

Centro Area

Man 1924

With its celebrated sense of

style, commitment to qual-

ity and meticulous attention to

detail, Man 1924 has become

one of Madrid’s most trusted

menswear stores. The range

perfectly blends classic tailor-

ing with current trends.

Man 1924,

Calle de Claudio Coello 17,

28001 Madrid,

+34 91 577 6919,

man1924.com

for map go to page 70


C. D

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SP

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Y M

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EL P

RÍN

CIP

E

C. DE LOS JARDINES

CALLE DE LA ADUANA

C. DE PRECIADOS

C. DE B

ORD

AD

OR

ES

CA

LL

E D

E L

A P

AZ

C. DEL CA

RM

EN

C. C

AR

RE

TAS

C. DEL ARENAL

CA

LLE DE PR

ECIA

DO

S CA

LLE

DE

LA M

ON

TER

A

CA

LLE DE V

EN

ER

AS

CALLE M AYOR

C. D

E N

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DE

AC

RE

C. DE L

A S

ALU

D

CALLE DE ALCALÁ

C

CALLE GR AN VÍA CALLE GRAN VÍA

CARRER A DE SAN JERÓNIMO

Plazadel Callao

CALLE DE LA C

RUZ

C. DE JACOMETREZO

CALLE DE LA BOLSA

C . DE L

AS T

RES C

RU

CES

PlazaMayor

Plaza DeSta Ana

ROSA CLARÁ ●

CAMPER ●

● D

ESIG

UA

L

● ● AD

IDA

S

BELLO

SO

● C

USTO

MAY

OR

PIEL ●

MA

RIO

NN

AU

D ●

● H&M

● ZARA

● ZARA ● JOYERÍA GERMAN

SPORT 2000 ●

SOLARIS ●

PIMKIE ●

EL DANUBIO AZUL ●

ARTESANÍA REYES ●

● BERSHKA

● CORTEFIEL

● FNAC

FOOT LOCKER ●

CAMPER ●

PHONE HOUSE ●

DESIGUAL ●

● MISS SIXTY

SWATCH ●● ULLOA ÓPTICO

REAL MADRID ●

● SOLARIS

● SEPHORA

GUITARRAS RAMÍREZ ●

ZARA ●

CASA

YU

STAS

●

● YSUSI● SPRINGFIELD

COTTET ●

JUTECO ●

LOEWE ●TIMYR ●

Puerta del Sol

El Corte Inglés

WOMEN’SECRET ●

● GENERAL OPTICASELECTED SHOPS IN EL CORTE INGLÉS:

CARAMELO

ESCADA SPORT

TAG HEUER

SWAROVSKI

TOUS


Department Store with China Union Pay Card

74 | GUIDE

Calle Gran Vía


C. B

AL

LE

ST

A

C. DEL DESENGAÑO

CALLE DE LA ESTRELLA

C. LUNA

C. D

E LA M

AD

ERA

CALLE DE S

AN RO

QU

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C. DE PRECIADOS

CA

LLE DE LE

GA

NITOS

CALLE SILVA

CA

LL

E DE FO

MEN

TO

C. DE JACOM E TREZO

CA

LL

E D

E S

AN

BE

RN

AD

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CALLE GRAN VIA

CALLE GRAN VIA

C. CO

RR

EDER

A BA

JA DE S

AN PABLO

CALLE GR AN VIA Plaza

del Callao

● SPRINGFIELD

SP

RIN

GF

IEL

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76 | GUIDE

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Opening times

Monday-Sunday: 10am-

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DoN’t MiSS...

SHOP | 77

How to get tHeRe

By car

Leave the A6 motorway at

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Hoss Intropia creates ready

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Furla is famous the world

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6pm

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79

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84 85

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Translations

82

Испанский мир моды уже давно взял за

привычку сотрудничать с талантливыми

художниками. Карен Мьюнис узнала к

чему приводит такая практика

«Дизайнер одежды это, по сути, художник,

родившийся дизайнером, и мода это тоже

своего рода вид искусства», – считает

Леонор Перез Пита, координатор

Мадридской Недели моды. Практически

все коллекции сезона весна-лето

2014, созданные такими всемирно

известными модельерами, как Карл

Лагерфельд из Chanel, Марк Джейкобс

из Louis Vuitton и Фиби Фило из Céline,

отличаются смелостью решений и

необыкновенным колоритом. Что касается

Мадрида, то здесь более чем где-либо

ощущается синергия искусства и модной

индустрии, выраженная в двустороннем

взаимодействии представителей обеих

сфер.

Многим испанским художникам

удалось получить всемирную славу

благодаря совместным проектам

с дизайнерами одежды. Одним из

примеров такого сотрудничества была

работа Пабло Пикассо и Коко Шанель

над балетами Жана Кокто, когда Пабло

занимался оформлением сцены, а Коко

разрабатывала костюмы. Сальвадор Дали

сотрудничал с итальянским модельером

Эльзой Скиапарелли, объединяя свою

сюрреалистичную живопись с ее эскизами

42: The Art Of Dressing

Искусство Одеваться

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОДодежды. Знаменитое платье «Омар»

было создано в 1937 году под влиянием

картины Дали «Нью-Йоркская мечта –

человек находит омара вместо телефона»;

шляпа-туфля, возникшая после появления

фотографии Дали 1934 года, стала частью

коллекции Скиапарелли сезона осень-

зима 1937/38.

Творческий союз, объединивший

художников и дизайнеров Мадрида,

усилился с расцветом «Мадридской

Мовиды», контркультурного движения

возникшего после смерти генерала Франко

в 1975 году. Испанский модельер Агата

éуис де ла Прада, основавшая свой бренд

женской одежды в начале 1980-х годов,

также была яркой последовательницей

этого движения. «Мадридская Мовида

была ярким подтверждением того, что

Испания меняется», – говорит она, – «В тот

момент культурные врата были открыты

настежь. Художники жаждали свободы,

творчества и возможности получать

удовольствие от работы. Мне повезло,

что я оказалась частью этой потрясающей

эпохи и поколения, где все казалось

возможным».

Большое влияние на работу éуис де ла

Прада оказал тот факт, что она выросла в

семье архитекторов и художников. «Когда

я была ребенком, я очень хотела стать

художником, поскольку мой отец был

коллекционером произведений искусства.

Я думаю, что именно поэтому искусство в

том или ином виде проглядывается в моих

коллекциях. Мне нравится творчество

Уорхола, Яёй Кусамы, éотко и Вазарели»,

– говорит она. В начале своей карьеры

дизайнер в основном была сосредоточена

лишь на женских коллекциях, однако со

83

временем ее смелые принты в стиле поп-

арт появились и в коллекциях мужской

и женской одежды, постельного белья,

мебели и серии фирменной косметики.

éаботы мадридского дизайнера

Амайи Арзуаги, знаменитой своими

мини-юбками, зачастую изобилуют

геометрическими и архитектурными

формами. Коллекция Арзуаги для

сезона весна-лето 2014 имеет необычную

палитру, куда вошли оттенки пурпурного,

кремового, ярко-желтого и черного. «Ее

работы это своего рода произведения

архитектуры», – считает Перез Пита,

– «Архитектура первое, что бросается

в глаза. Чистые линии и характерные

формы вдохновлены работами многих

испанских архитекторов».

Хуан Видаль, получивший в прошлом

году премию Vogue Who’s On Next 2013,

окончил школу живописи в Барселоне,

после чего решил сменить сферу

деятельности и стал дизайнером одежды,

однако изобразительное искусство

продолжает оказывать значительное

влияние на его творчество. «В живописи

есть нечто такое, что постоянно

вдохновляет меня на использование

новых цветов и современных графических

принтов», – говорит он, – «Еще одним

важным источником вдохновения для

моих коллекций служит кинематограф».

Каждая из коллекций Видаля получает

название в честь одной из киногероинь;

в следующем сезоне, к примеру, это будет

Диана-охотница.

éаботы многих испанских дизайнеров

прошлого можно обнаружить в музее

костюма и моды «Museo del Traje»,

который располагается в здании,

спроектированном знаменитыми

архитекторами Хайме Лопес де Асиайн

и Анхель Диас Домингес. Одновременно

с расцветом испанской индустрии моды

в 16 и 17 веках началось стремительное

развитие текстильной промышленности

и изобразительного искусства. Таким

образом, посетители музея смогут также

увидеть фрагменты первого испанского

журнала моды, издававшегося в эпоху

Золотого века. Здесь же можно встретить

наряды Кристобаля Баленсиаги,

родившегося в Гетарии в 1895 году.

На творчество Баленсиаги оказали

значительное влияние работы таких

испанских художников, как Веласкес

и Гойя, в результате чего в коллекциях

дизайнера преобладали объемные и

роскошные материалы, вышивка и

многочисленные украшения. Также в

музее экспонируются работы других

испанских дизайнеров, включая Мариано

Фортуни, который изучал архитектуру

перед тем, как создать свои знаменитые

сверкающие платья в 1960-х годах.

Для дальнейшего углубления

взаимодействия испанского искусства

и моды дизайнер Мануэль Фернандес

основал Институт искусства моды. Его

первая коллаборация проводилась при

участии художника Хуаньо Кастильо.

С тех пор его коллекции вместо модных

подиумов попадают прямо в галереи

и музеи, при этом он продолжает

сотрудничать с художниками из разных

городов и районов Испании.

Хотя Мадрид, вероятно, является

главным центром творческого

взаимодействия моды и искусства, это

тенденция начинает распространяться

и за его пределы. «Я думаю, что в наши

дни, как в принципе и всегда, искусство

в любой стране идет в ногу с модой», –

говорит Видаль.


amayaarzuaga.com, juanvidal.net,



globalblue.com

84

长久以来西班牙时尚界就从艺术家那里得到无

穷启迪——反之亦然。Karen Munnis带您发

掘这一特殊协同效应孕育的时尚宝藏

“时装设计师生来就是艺术家，只是投身于时尚

设计；时尚从某方面而言就是一种艺术，”马德

里梅赛德斯奔驰时装周主席Leonor Pérez Pita

表示。在2014年春夏， Chanel的Karl

Lagerfeld，Louis Vuitton 的Marc Jacobs，

及Céline的Phoebe Philo等国际设计师，都奉

献了大胆、绘画般的系列，但在马德里，艺术与

时尚的协同效应着实存在，并源源不绝地相互

影响并协作着。

自很久之前，西班牙艺术家就因为与时尚设计

师在事业上的合作，而获得国际认可。譬如毕

加索和Coco Chanel在1920年代的轰动合

作，他们共同参与了两部Jean Cocteau的芭

蕾舞剧，毕加索设计舞台布景，Chanel则负

责服装。达利与Elsa Schiaparelli的合作，则

将他的超现实主义影像融入到设计师的服装

中。1937年的龙虾礼服，灵感就来自达利的作

品New York Dream - Man Finds Lobster

in Place of Phone（纽约梦——电话上的龙

虾）；达利1934年的摄影作品the Shoe hat，则

幻化为Schiaparelli在1937/38年秋冬季设计

的作品之一。

马德里艺术与时尚界间的合作，在1975

年弗朗哥将军去世后爆发的新潮文化运动

Movida Madrileña之后，变得越发如火如荼。

时装设计师Ágatha Ruiz de la Prada于1980

年代早期，在马德里推出了女装品牌，并成为这

一运动的重要支持者。“Movida Madrileña是

西班牙正在发生翻天覆地变化的证明，”她说。“

禁锢文化的闸门被冲开；而艺术家只是想获得自

由、创意、并享受创作过程。我很幸运能身处这

个充满激情的年代，成为这批人中的一份子，在

这里一切皆有可能。”

Ruiz de la Prada的作品，受到其所成长的建筑


服装的艺术

美文翻译79: When You Shop The

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85

师与艺术家家庭的深刻影响。她表示：“当我还

是个孩子时，很想成为一名画家，因为我的父亲

就是一名艺术品收藏家。我想这就是艺术在我

的作品中以某种独特方式呈现的原因。我热爱

Warhol，草间弥生，Rothko与Vasarely。”她仅

以女装起家，但其构思大胆，受波普艺术风影响

催生的印花设计，很快拓展运用到男装、童装、

家具设计、床品与化妆品上。

马德里设计师Amaya Arzuaga则将柔和几何

图形与建筑元素运用到作品中。她在2014年

春夏系列中加入了超短迷你裙和和几何结构等

招牌设计元素，并使用了紫红色系、奶油色、鲜

黄色和黑色。“她的设计就是建筑，”Pérez Pita

评价道。“结构的重要性被推至首位。她的简练

线条和体量控制，受到许多西班牙建筑师作品

的启发。 ”

《Vogue》杂志主办的 Who's On Next 2013

奖项得主Juan Vidal，在投身时尚设计之前，曾

在巴塞罗那学习绘画与纯艺，艺术对其作品的影

响延绵不绝。 "我作品中的色彩与摩登图案设

计，都受到艺术中某些抽象元素的影响，”他表

示。“此外，电影艺术也是我钟爱的灵感来源之

一。”Vidal的每个作品系列都用电影女角色的名

字命名；下一季度将会是Diana the huntress。

马德里Museo del Traje博物馆的服装与时尚

分馆中，展出着西班牙时装大师的作品。博物

馆大楼由获奖建筑师Jaime López de Asiaín

与Ángel Díaz Domínguez设计。当西班牙时

装业在16、17世纪蓬勃发展的同时，纺织业和

艺术界也开始大放异彩。因此，博物馆的到访

者们可以在此看到在这个黄金时期发行的，西

班牙首本时尚杂志的残片。收藏中还有于1895

年生在戈塔瑞的Cristóbal Balenciaga的作

品。Balenciaga的作品深受西班牙艺术大师如

Velázquez与Goya的影响，经常使用沉甸甸的

繁复材料，并缀满刺绣与装饰物。馆藏中其他

西班牙人的作品包括，曾从事戏剧灯光设计的

Mariano Fortuny出名的Delphos礼服，以及

曾经学习建筑的Paco Rabanne在1960年代推

出的，著名的闪亮金属连衣裙。

时装设计师Manuel Fernández成立了时装

艺术学院，以促进艺术与时尚在全西班牙的

协同作用。他的首次跨界合作是与画家Juanjo

Castillo一起进行。自那时起，他的作品就不再

限于T型台，而被诸多画廊与博物馆收藏，他去

到哪座城市，就与当地的艺术家进行合作。

马德里看似是艺术家影响时尚的中心腹地，但

反之亦然，这种趋势超越国界不断延伸。 Vidal

说：“我认为当今的艺术界，与往日一样，在全世

界范围内都与时尚携手同盟。”


amayaarzuaga.com,

juanvidal.net,



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消费时，环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税

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86


服飾のアート

日本語

スペインでは昔から、ファッション界

とアート界が互いにインスピレーションを与

えあってきた。この極めて大切なシナジー

効果がスタイルにどう表れてきたかを、カレ

ン・ムニスが振り返る。

「ファッションデザイナーはデザイナー

として生まれたアーティスト。どう見ても、フ

ァッションは一種の芸術です」と、メルセデ

スベンツ・ファッションウィーク・マドリード

のディレクター、レオノール・ペレス・ピタは

いう。シャネルのカール・ラガーフェルド、ル

イ・ヴィトンのマーク・ジェイコブス、セリー

ヌのフィービー・フィロといった国際的デザイ

ナーが、2014年春夏コレクションで大胆で

絵のように美しい作品を世に送り出している

が、マドリードではアートとファッション産業

の間に真のシナジーが存在し、常に影響を

与え合い、協働している。

スペインのアーティストは、キャリア

初期にファッションデザイナーとコラボレー

ションすることを通じて国際的に認められ

てきた。パブロ・ピカソとココ・シャネルが

1920年代にジャン・コクトー原作のバレエ二

作品の制作で協働した話は有名で、ピカソ

が舞台セットをデザインし、シャネルは衣装

を担当した。サルヴァドール・ダリもファッシ

ョンデザイナーのエルザ・スキャパレリとコ

ラボしており、ダリが生み出したシュルレア

リスム的なイメージとスキャパレリの服が合

体した。1937年発表のロブスタードレスは、

ダリの「ロブスター電話（New York Dream

- Man Finds Lobster in Place of Phone）

」から発想を得たもので、1937・38年秋冬コ

レクションに登場したシューハットも、そもそ

もはダリの1934年の写真が始まりだった。

マドリードのアート界とファッション界

のシナジーは、1975年の独裁者フランコの

死後に生まれた反体制文化運動「モビーダ・

マドリレーニャ」で全盛期を迎える。1980年

代初頭にマドリードで自己のウーマンズウェ

アブランドを立ち上げたファッションデザイ

ナー、アガタ・ルイス・デ・ラ・プラダも、この

運動の主要な支持者だった。「モビーダ・マ

ドリレーニャはスペインが変革の只中にある

ことの証明で、気分爽快だった」という。「文

化の堰が切られ、アーティストたちはただ自

由に生き、創造し、楽しみたかったんです。

あらゆることが可能に見えたあのダイナミッ

クな時代に生き、ダイナミックな世代の一員

だった私はラッキーでした。」

建築家や芸術家が多い家庭に育った

ことが、ルイス・デ・ラ・プラダの作品の多く

に影響を与えている。「父がアートコレクタ

ーだったので、子供のころは絵描きになり

たかったんです。私のコレクションに直観的

にアート性が見られるのはそのせいだと思

います。ウォーホル、草間彌生、ロスコ、ヴァ

サレリが大好きなんです。」ルイス・デ・ラ・

プラダは初めはウーマンズウェア専門だっ

たが、その後範囲を拡大し、ポップアートか

らインスピレーションを得た大胆なプリント

は、紳士服や子供服、家具デザイン、ベッド

リネン、化粧品に至るまで幅広く見られる。

マドリードを本拠とするデザイナー、

アマヤ・アルズアーガの作品は、ソフトな幾

何学図形や建築を思い描いたもの。アルズ

アーガはマイクロミニスカートや構造的な

形の作品が特徴で、2014年春夏コレクショ

ンでは鮮やかな赤紫やクリーム、カナリアイ

エロー、黒といった色合いを見せている。ペ

レス・ピタによれば、「彼女のデザインは建

築」だという。「まず構造ありきなんです。ス

ッキリしたラインやボリューム感のもたせ方

は、多くのスペイン人建築家の作品をヒント

にしています。」

2013年度のヴォーグ誌の新人デザイ

ナー発掘アワード「Who Is On Next?」で

優勝したフアン・ヴィダルは、バルセロナで

絵画と美術を勉強した後ファッションデザイ

ナーに転向した人で、彼のコレクションには

常にアートの影響が見られる。「色使いであ

87

れ現代的なグラフィックデザインであれ、僕

の作品に影響を与える掴みがたい何かがア

ートにはある」と、ヴィダルはいう。「コレク

ションは、芸術としての映画もよくインスピ

レーションの源にしています。」彼のコレク

ションにはそれぞれ、女性キャラクタータイ

プの名前が付けられている。次シーズンは、

狩猟の女神ダイアナだ。

マドリードの服飾博物館にはスペイン

ファッションの大御所の作品が保存されて

いるが、コスチュームとファッションに関する

この博物館の建物は、建築賞受賞者のハイ

メ・ロペス・デ・アシアインとアンヘル・ディ

アス・ドミンゲスが設計したものだ。16世紀

から17世紀にかけてスペインのファッション

業界が隆盛を極めていた頃は、同国のテキ

スタイルとアートも全盛期にあった。そのた

め、この博物館を訪れれば、この黄金期に

創刊されたスペイン初のファッション雑誌

の一部も目にすることができる。1895年にゲ

タリアに生まれたクリストバル・バレンシア

ガの作品もある。バレンシアガは、ヴェラス

ケスやゴヤといったスペイン画壇の巨匠の

影響を色濃く受け、重厚感あるリッチな素

材、刺繍、飾りを多用した。この他、デルフォ

スドレスで名を成す前は劇場関係や照明の

仕事をしていたマリアノ・フォルトゥーニ、建

築を勉強した後1960年代に光沢のあるメタ

リックドレスで有名になったパコラバンヌの

作品も展示されている。

ファッションデザイナーのマヌエル・フ

ェルナンデスは、スペイン全土でアートとフ

ァッションの相互作用を推進しようと、ファ

ッションアート・インスティテュートを開設し

た。彼の初コラボレーションの相手は、画家

のフアンホ・カスティージョだった。以来、フ

ェルナンデスのコレクションは、キャットウ

ォークで披露される代わりにギャラリーや

美術館で所蔵されている。彼は、行く先々

で様々なアーティストと協働している。

アーティストとファッションデザイナー

が互いに影響し合う関係はマドリードが中

心だが、その傾向は国境を超えて広がって

いる。「アートは今も昔も、世界中でファッ

79: When You Shop The

World, Shop Tax Free

海外でのお買い物が免税に

グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度

をご利用いただきますと、世界各地の有名

ショッピング街にある27万軒を超える加盟

店でのお買い物がお得になります。

年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバ

ル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方も

ぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。まず、

青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星が見

当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ブル

ー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステッ

プを踏むだけです。

1. お買い物

お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブル

ーの免税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）

を受け取ってください。レシートを保管する

のも忘れずに。

2. 還付請求

ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシー

トに承認印を押してもらってから、グローバ

ル・ブルーのカスタマーサービスデスクで払

い戻しを受けます。

お問い合わせ：

[email protected]

+421 232 111 111　　

€90.16以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価

格の最高15.7％の払い戻しが受けられま

す。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税

（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引い

た金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くださ

い。なお、現金での即日還付が必要な場合

は、還付の場所によって、各タックスフリー

フォームにつき固定の追加手数料をとられ

る場合があります。

ションとつながっていると思います」とヴィダ

ルはいう。

agatharuizdelaprada.com、

amayaarzuaga.com、juanvidal.net、

museodeltraje.mcu.es、


88 | PRODUCTS

Souvenir


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