shop milan aw14
DESCRIPTION
ÂTRANSCRIPT
Meisterstück and Hugh Jackman
Crafted for New Heights
Ninety years ago, Montblanc created a writing instrument that became an icon far beyond writing culture: the Montblanc Meisterstück, a symbol for the everlasting quest of achievement. To celebrate 90 years of Meisterstück, the new Meisterstück 90 Years has red gold-plated fittings and a nib specially engraved with a commemorative “90”. Visit and shop at Montblanc.com
Boutique Montblanc
Via Montenapoleone 27/B - Cso Vercelli 1 - LaRinascente - Malpensa Airport
PIAZZA DELLA SCALA 5, MILANO
SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM
via Montenapoleone 16
Emma Cheevers
14
/globalblue/globalblue /globalblue@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
@GlobalBlue /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu
Editor’s Letter
ILL
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Welcome to Milan
Even if you’ve visited Milan before, you may be surprised to discover
Brera, a neighbourhood which houses many of the city’s art galleries and
interior design boutiques – fnd out more in our feature on page 76. In
this edition, we also take an in-depth look at the latest Italian clothing
designs, where art and fashion combine, and reveal a selection of Milan’s
leading restaurants (page 94).
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ILLU
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María Corte
María Corte created this
season’s cover illustration for
SHOP Milan. Her graphic
artwork has previously
been commissioned by
Apartamento, BBC Music
magazine and Artafacta
among others. Her artistic
sensibility and use of geometric
shapes makes her a perfect
illustrator for this cover.
Inspired by our feature about
the infuence of art on Italian
fashion, María’s illustration
uses geometric shapes and
layering to reveal models
within the composition.
Read more about our
cover illustrations at
globalblue.com/covers.
PH
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globalblue.com
Hannah Lewis
Hannah Lewis, assistant
fashion and news editor
at SHOP, studied English
literature and language at the
University of Oxford before
going on to study for an MA
in journalism at the London
College of Fashion.
Harriet Quick
Esteemed fashion journalist
Harriet Quick has held
senior roles at the Guardian
newspaper and British Vogue.
She has contributed the cover
feature for this issue of SHOP,
looking at where art and
fashion meet in Milan.
Contributors
Beth Druce
For this edition of SHOP
Milan, Beth Druce has
explored the city to discover
its hidden delights for our
Magic of Milan feature. Beth
is a fashion writer who also
works as a consultant for a
variety of luxury companies.
Shop Floor
20
E DI TOR I A L
Editor-in-chief
Emma Cheevers
PU BL I SH I NG
PublisherJames Morris
Managing editor
Sally McIlhone
Cover illustrator
María Corte
Contributors
Beth Druce, Maria Kirchen-Hill,
Olivia Miles, Harriet Quick
Production editor
Caterina Mazzolai
Assistant production editor
Ruairidh Pritchard
Features editor
Stephen Doig
City guide and lifestyle editor
Verity Hogan
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Dominique Fenn
Assistant fashion and market editor
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Assistant fashion and news editors
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Isabella Redmond Styles
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Rubi Ali
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Milkha Lala
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Hibba Sayeed
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Contents
22
Above: Agnona autumn/winter 2014/15
Products
28 Check Out
sHoP selects a standout piece from Milan
this season
30 My Favourites
uberta Zambeletti, owner of Milan’s Wait
and see boutique, reveals her top places
and products in the city
32 Products
Key looks for the season, from fashion and
footwear to jewellery and accessories
42 Street Style
our pick of Milan’s best dressed for
autumn/winter 2014/15
N e Ws
48 Shop Window
one store not to be missed in Milan
50 News
seasonal updates on shops, services and
new products
62 In Store …
… with claudio Antonioli in his boutique
on Via Pasquale Paoli
F e At u r e s
66 Cover Story: Creative Edge
Infuential art movements are informing
Milan’s latest fashion designs, Harriet
Quick reports
76 The Magic Of Milan
From hidden ateliers to traditional stores
and cafés, the city has much to discover,
as Beth druce fnds out
86 In Focus: The Aquazzura High Heel
Aquazzura is responsible for one of the
most recognisable shoes this decade. olivia
Miles talks to edgardo osorio, the man
behind the design
e x Pe r I e Nce
94 Table Talk
From classic Italian kitchens to
contemporary chinese dumplings, Milan’s
restaurants ofer a world of options for
adventurous gourmands. Verity Hogan
explores a selection of the city’s fnest
102 Stay In Style
sHoP’s guide to the world’s most
exclusive hotels
p.66
24
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Contents
Gu i de
108 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas
of Milan, plus SHOP’s unique view of the
city’s sights
e SSe n t i a l S
142 How To Shop Tax Free
the simple steps to saving money on
your shopping
t R a nSl at iOnS
144 Русский Перевод
154 美文翻译
162 日本語翻訳
SOu v e n i R
170 the essential item to bring home
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SHOP MARELLA.COM
MILANO
corso Vittorio Emanuele
corso XXII Marzo 4
MILANO | Piazza San Babila 3 | Tel. +39 02 76000366
10 Stores in the city
boggi.com | shop.boggi.com
28 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142
NORDIC FLAIR
An Emilio Pucci handbag is a highly sought-
after item, and this intricately beaded creation
is no exception. For Emilio Pucci’s latest
collection, designer Peter Dundas has injected
Nordic fair, taking inspiration from his
Norwegian heritage. Viewed through the lens of
Emilio Pucci’s traditional Italian glamour, the
bag features vibrant prints and is a celebration
of colour, pattern and texture. On a base of
classic black, eye-catching embellishments
including embroidery and iridescent beading
complete the intricate pattern and make this
bag perfect for a special occasion. hl
Emilio Pucci clutch, €1,056, Emilio Pucci,
Via Montenapoleone 14, 20121 Milan,
+39 02 7631 8356, emiliopucci.com
* for map go to page 126
Check Out
30 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142
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My Favourites: uBerta ZaMBeLetti
Based in Milan, Uberta Zambeletti is a fashion
designer, stylist, interior decorator and design
consultant. In 2010 she opened Wait and See, a
multibrand boutique flled with luxurious items which
are carefully selected to refect her refned, eclectic
aesthetic. Here Uberta talks to Ximena Daneri about
her favourite products and places in Milan.
waitandsee.it
1. ‘I love Missoni for its
timeless and luscious pieces’
Missoni,
Via Montenapoleone 8,
20121 Milan,
+39 02 7600 3555,
missoni.com
2. ‘My signature fragrance is
Philosykos by Diptyque’
Diptyque Philosykos eau de
parfum’
Diptyque Philosykos eau de
parfum, 100ml, €98,
La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo,
20121 Milan, +39 02 3674 1359,
diptyqueparis.eu
1
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SHOP | 31
3. ‘Alberto Levi sources rare
and refned antique textiles
and carpets’
Allegra Hicks Pandora carpet,
from €6,200,
Alberto Levi Gallery,
Via San Maurilio 24,
20123 Milan,
+39 02 8901 1553,
albertolevi.com
4. ‘Anne Grand Clèment
produces beautiful handbags’
Anne Grand Clèment bag, €350,
Wait and See,
Via Santa Marta 14,
20123 Milan,
+39 02 7208 0195,
annegrandclement.com
5. ‘For the best contemporary
American furniture, visit this
recently opened store in the 5
Vie district’
BDDW,
Via Santa Marta 19A,
20123 Milan,
+39 02 2222 9467,
bddw.com
6. ‘This is in a beautiful
and charming setting, with
delicious all-Italian food’
The Small,
Via Niccolò Paganini 3/Piazza Argentina,
20124 Milan,
+39 02 2024 0943,
thesmall.it
3 4
5
6
32 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142
4. Marina Rinaldi trousers, €168,
Marina Rinaldi, Piazza del Liberty 2,
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II,
20122 Milan, +39 02 782065,
marinarinaldi.com
3. Swarovski Stardust bracelet, €79,
Swarovski, Corso Vercelli 3,
20144 Milan, +39 02 433040,
swarovski.com
1. Hugo Boss boots, €595, Hugo Boss,
Corso Giacomo Matteotti 11,
20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 4667,
hugoboss.com
2. Cos jacket, €135, Cos,
Corso Venezia 5, 20121 Milan,
+39 02 7628 0649, cosstores.com
monochrome
masterpiece
Mix up a classic neutral look with textures,
prints and fashion-forward shapes
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2
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34 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142
4. Salvatore Ferragamo bag, €1,750,
Salvatore Ferragamo,
Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121 Milan,
+39 02 7600 0054,
ferragamo.com
3. Bally Bonyta boots, €1,295,
Bally, Via Montenapoleone 8,
20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8406,
bally.com
1. Max Mara coat, €1,100, Max Mara,
Via Victor Hugo 1/Via Orefci,
20123 Milan, +39 02 8901 3509,
maxmara.com
2. Meissen necklace, €3,800,
Meissen, Via Montenapoleone 3,
20121 Milan, +39 02 8942 3725,
meissen.com
BRING OUT
THE BURGUNDY
This winter’s jewel colour is a juicy,
rich antidote to grey skies
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SHOP | 35
3. Victorinox Infantry watch, €360,
Grimoldi, Piazza del Duomo 21,
20121 Milan, +39 02 876092,
victorinox.com
4. A Testoni backpack, price on
request, A Testoni,
Via Montenapoleone 19, 20121 Milan,
+39 02 7600 3697, testoni.com
1. Canali cashmere sweater, €610,
Canali, Via Pietro Verri 1-3,
20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 0365,
canali.com
2. Montblanc Meisterstück iPhone 5
and 5s holder, €155, Montblanc,
Via Montenapoleone 27B, 20121 Milan,
+39 02 7631 7720, montblanc.com
5. Alberto Guardiani trainers, €525,
Alberto Guardiani, Corso Venezia 6,
20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1697,
albertoguardiani.com
CHIC COMFORTS
Elevate of-duty style with superior
fabrics and a touch of sparkle
1
2 3 5
4
36 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142
1. Hermès Zebra Pegasus scarf,
€895, Hermès, Via Montenapoleone 12,
20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3495,
hermes.com
2. Mango trousers, €34.99,
Mango, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II
24-28, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7601 4530,
mango.com
3. Pomellato Victoria ring, €10,270,
Pomellato, Via San Pietro all’Orto 17,
20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 6086,
pomellato.com
4. Casadei shoes, in red or black,
€650, Casadei, Via Sant’Andrea 1,
20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 8293,
casadei.com
5. Escada coat, €3,499,
Escada, Via Agnello 2, 20121 Milan,
+39 02 4798 8130, escada.com
1
WILD CHILD
Luxury leather and animal print provide
a playful take on winter dressing
2 3
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38 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142
5. Bang & Olufsen Beolit 12 music
system (iPhone not included), €699,
Bang & Olufsen, Corso Magenta 30,
20123 Milan, +39 02 8909 6215,
beoplay.com
3. Cos document case, €45,
Cos, Corso Venezia 5, 20121 Milan,
+39 02 7628 0649, cosstores.com
4. Lacoste trainers, €99.90,
Lacoste, Via Dante 6, 20121 Milan,
+39 02 8050 9618, lacoste.com
1. Frends headphones, €219.95;
headphone caps, €49.95,
Excelsior, Galleria del Corso 4,
20122 Milan, +39 02 7630 7301,
wearefrends.com
2. Nixon watch, €280,
10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10,
20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674,
nixon.com
GADGET GUY
For the technologically
minded, these innovations
prove that state of the art
can also mean stylish
1
2 3
4
5
CORSO VERCELLI 27
SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM
40 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142
5. Jimmy Choo bag, €995,
Jimmy Choo, Via Sant’Andrea 1A,
20121 Milan, +39 02 4548 1770,
jimmychoo.com
3. Marella Moresca jacket, €189,
Marella, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 2,
20122 Milan, +39 02 7601 2747,
marella.com
4. Dolce & Gabbana shoes, €1,795,
Dolce & Gabbana, Corso Venezia 7,
20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 4091,
dolcegabbana.com
1. Burberry pencil skirt, €1,195,
Burberry, Via Pietro Verri 7,
20121 Milan, +39 02 760 8201,
burberry.com
2. Louis Vuitton hat, price on
request, Louis Vuitton,
Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan,
+39 02 777 1711, louisvuitton.com
TAILORING
WITH A TWIST
Update a sleek, sharp
silhouette with whimsical
and tactile accessories
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42 | PRODUCTS
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Street
Style
At Milan Fashion
Week, tastemakers
paired full suits with
bomber jackets to
create a more edgy
look. Playful prints,
sharp contrasting
colours and whimsical
accessories, such as
Fendi’s furry bag,
added a fun element
to classic feminine
silhouettes.
globalblue.com
SHOP | 43
44 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142
Street
Style
Milan street style
stars let their
accessories do the
talking, and the
clutch bag style reigns
supreme this season,
whether it’s a metallic
design from Roger
Vivier, embellished by
Mawi, or a pop art-
inspired version by
Jimmy Choo.
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SHOP | 45
48 | NEWS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142
Shop Window
CENTRE OF EXCELLENCE
Milan’s newly opened Brian & Barry Building
San Babila brings together the best the city
has to ofer in terms of fashion, design, beauty
and jewellery in an innovative way. Occupying
an entire 1950s palazzo and spanning an
impressive 12 storeys, it houses single-label
boutiques as well as multibrand spaces devoted
to clothing, accessories, homeware and
technology. Don’t miss the beauty foor, which
has been created in collaboration with Sephora
and is the frst retail space of its kind in the
world. To add to the appeal, Brian & Barry
has teamed up with Eataly to provide a choice
of restaurants, cafés and gourmet food halls.
What’s more, the building is open seven days a
week from 10am to 10pm, so there’s no excuse
not to drop by and discover Brian & Barry’s
exciting new concept. irs
Brian & Barry Building San Babila,
Via Durini 28, 20122 Milan,
+39 02 7600 5582,
thebrianebarrybuilding.it
* for map go to page 120
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PIAZZA OBERDAN 2/A MILANO
50 | NEWS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142
AMERICAN DREAM
Inspired by a trip to Dallas as a teenager,
the feisty new collection from German designer
Philipp Plein is an homage to free-spirited
women and features many items made in
Italy. Crystal-encrusted boots, huge metal
belt buckles, studded leather leggings and
sumptuous furs, all in black, create a vision of
a rock ’n’ roll cowgirl, while fashes of bright red
tartan add a punk feel. Gold-studded leather
gloves, stilettos, boots and handbags can also
be found in this stunning new fagship store. gl
Philipp Plein,
Via della Spiga 25, 20121 Milan,
+39 02 7600 2098, philipp-plein.com
* for map go to page 128
TRUE GENT
Bringing a dash of the dapper British
gentleman to Milan, Hackett has opened
its frst Italian standalone store, combining
classic Milanese architecture with Hackett’s
confdent, modern style. Hackett’s casualwear
and childrenswear ranges can be found on
the ground foor and are surrounded by
artwork. Upstairs, visitors can browse the
accessories, Mayfair and formal collections.
The store also ofers an excellent bespoke
service inspired by its Savile Row heritage. irs
Hackett,
Via Manzoni 38, 20121 Milan,
+39 02 7601 5369, hackett.com
* for map go to page 130
SHOP | 51
globalblue.com
In brief:
— There is
good news for
those looking
for homeware,
as Vitra’s chic
Home Collection
is now available
at the Design
Supermarket
La Rinascente.
WOOLLEN WONDERS
From its creation in 1959
in a small factory in Italy,
Stefanel has been known
for its beautiful knitwear.
Founded by Carlo Stefanel
and now in the hands of his
son Giuseppe, the label has
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SHOP THE WORLD
Using our wealth of insider knowledge,
we have created a smartphone app to
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– thousands of stores are listed and
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and a description of what each store
sells. Our maps guide you right to the
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offine use enabling you to create your
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Choice, our service that allows you to
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gained a sound reputation
for knitted pieces of the
highest quality. The new
women’s collection is modern
and stylish, using clean lines
and simple colourways to
great efect. Knitwear is
still at the heart of the label,
with everything from warm
winter coats to matching
separates realised in the
softest cashmere. mkh
Stefanel,
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II,
20121 Milan,
+39 02 805 1110,
stefanel.com
* for map go to page 114
52 | NEWS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142
WATCH THIS SPACE
Founded in 1875, trusted
watch brand Bulova has a
rich history of innovation.
Its original Accutron pieces
had unprecedented accuracy
and played an integral role
in numerous space missions
including the Apollo 11 moon
landing in 1969. Bulova
has now launched a range
inspired by the original
Accutron collection, featuring
cutting-edge technology and
modern design. A highlight
of the range is the Bulova
Accutron II Alpha, which
features a green anodised
aluminium dial ring and
super-luminescent tuning
fork encased in a sleek and
streamlined modern case with
a luxurious leather strap. hl
Gioielleria Fugazzi,
Via Torino 49,
20123 Milan,
+39 02 8645 3575,
bulova.com
* for map go to page 134
WINTER WEAR
The Italian label behind some of the best coats to ever grace a
catwalk, Max Mara once again meets expectations this season.
All styles, from trench coats to Pufa jackets, feature touches
of masculine tailoring, and the materials, such as herringbone
tweed and Prince of Wales tartan, are the stars of the show. The
boxy, oversized waistcoat can be balanced by a sleek leather
pencil skirt, while grey-on-grey layering enhances the diferent
weaves and knits which can be found throughout the brand’s
autumn/winter 2014/15 collection. hl
Max Mara,
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II,
20121 Milan,
+39 02 7600 8849,
maxmara.com
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TOP GEAR
As winter approaches, a warm, well-made
coat is a necessity. For men who don’t want
to compromise style for practicality, Paul &
Shark has the solution. Making use of two of
nature’s most comforting fabrics, cashmere
and sheepskin, the chocolate brown jacket from
the Luxury collection is a weekend wardrobe
essential. For a more fashion-forward look, this
edgy bomber jacket, crafted in soft leather and
wool, is an ideal choice. irs
Paul & Shark,
Via Montenapoleone 16,
20121 Milan,
+39 02 7600 8565,
paulshark.it
* for map go to page 126
RACING AHEAD
Founded more than a century ago, Italian
luxury leather label Trussardi 1911 is known
worldwide as one of the country’s leading
fashion houses. It started as a small family
company making luxury gloves and was soon
recognised for its excellent leather-working
techniques, going on to become an ofcial
supplier of gloves to the British royal family.
Today, Trussardi’s greyhound logo can be
found on a range of items, from evening bags to
casual footwear, and it also ofers ready-to-wear
lines for men and women. hl
Trussardi 1911,
Via Sant’Andrea 5, 20121 Milan,
+39 02 7602 0380,
trussardi.com
* for map go to page 124
Corso Buenos Aires
Corner ViAle TunisiA
inFo + 02 29532164
56 | NEWS
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ITALIAN STYLE
Known by Milan’s most
fashionable residents since the
1920s, when Stefano Serapian
set up a specialist leather
workshop, Serapian is admired
throughout the city. By the
1960s, Serapian’s exquisite
bags were being carried by
the likes of Audrey Hepburn
and today, Serapian is still a
family-run business which
continues to uphold its made-
in-Italy tradition. This season,
look out for pieces designed
with the brand’s signature
woven leather, which dates
back to 1947. irs
Serapian,
Via della Spiga 42,
20121 Milan,
+39 02 7602 4451,
serapian.com
* for map go to page 128
FEEL-GOOD FACTOR
Since launching in 1986
Italian brand Hogan has
continued to come up with
smart-casual footwear that
perfectly combines style and
comfort. Its latest design, the
H222, has a sporty rubber
sole for ease of wear, while
the stitching and perforation
patterns on the upper are
reminiscent of a traditional
brogue. These are ideal for
those who want to look chic
on the move. gl
Hogan,
Via Montenapoleone 23,
20121 Milan,
+39 02 7601 1174, hogan.com
* for map go to page 126
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A-LIST LINES
The Serpenti collection of bags and
accessories from the luxury Italian brand
Bulgari has reached a status that few lines
achieve and is a favourite among fashion editors
as well as with Hollywood actresses. The new
Serpenti Scales design features a linear frame
with a top handle and a modern, architectural
shape. Available in a range of colours, we are
particularly taken with this eye-catching cobalt
creation. Blue is one of the key colours of the
season, and this soft and smooth calf leather
handbag cannot fail to brighten any outft. hl
Bulgari,
Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan,
+39 02 777001,
bulgari.com
* for map go to page 126
INSIDE CAVALLI
Roberto Cavalli’s new store on Via
Montenapoleone – the brand’s largest – is
the culmination of a lifelong dream for the
famboyant designer. The interior is striking,
with fve storeys connected by a mother-of-
pearl staircase and a 15-metre-high video
wall on each foor. The store carries the
complete womenswear clothing and accessories
collections, including Roberto Cavalli, Just
Cavalli and Cavalli Class. On the second foor,
there’s an atelier where custom-made pieces
can be ordered, and another foor is dedicated
to homeware. For devotees of the eponymous
designer, this is the perfect opportunity to
immerse yourself in his world. df
Roberto Cavalli,
Via Montenapoleone 6,
20121 Milan,
+39 02 763 0771,
robertocavalli.com
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60 | NEWS
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MAKE IT A GOAL
As well as excelling in fashion and food,
Italians are also passionate about football, and
the newly opened Casa Milan pays tribute to
one of the country’s fnest teams, AC Milan.
Visit the Mondo Milan museum to admire
the club’s many trophies and enjoy interactive
exhibits. Directly accessible from the museum
is the store, which stocks the team’s ofcial
jerseys and merchandise and some exclusive
items. Find out what it’s like to eat like Mario
Balotelli at Casa Milan’s Cucina Milanello,
which has the same chef as AC Milan’s
training centre. irs
Casa Milan,
Via Aldo Rossi 8,
20149 Milan,
+39 02 62281,
casamilan.acmilan.com
BEST OF BRITISH
Burberry continues to put British style on
a global platform with the launch of a store in
Milan’s Malpensa Airport. The UK brand has
11 stores in Italy and the new shop, located in
Terminal 1, is the perfect pre-fight pit stop.
The boutique stocks the Burberry London
collection in addition to accessories, eyewear,
fragrances and watches. Whether you’re in
search of one of Burberry’s famous trench
coats or a small gift, all can be found here. irs
Burberry,
Malpensa Airport,
Terminal 1,
21010 Ferno,
+39 02 7486 8684,
burberry.com
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FIRST IN BLACK.THE ORIGINAL.
porsche designTimepieces
62 | NEWS
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‘My passion for fashion and clothes inspired me
to create Antonioli. I have a number of stores
throughout Italy which are multibrand boutiques
that aim to include a progressive selection of
international brands; they are always up to
date with what’s currently in the spotlight.
‘Ten years ago, I relocated the store and
expanded within the city. I’ve always loved
Naviglio and thought of it as an important and
historic place for Milan. When I was looking
for a new place for Antonioli, I fell in love with
this space; it was formerly the location of one of
Milan’s frst silent theatres, which closed in 1916.
‘The boutique has also expanded to
incorporate an old mechanic’s shop, which
was transformed into a glistening retail space.
For my stores, I’ve always collaborated with
important and talented architects, and this one
was created by Storage Associati. It’s important
to work together in order to create the best
creative synergies. In the Milan store, we have
taken cues from the history of the building and
made them work today. Even after a century,
some details survive, like an old cinema screen
and a black stone funnel.’
Antonioli,
Via Pasquale Paoli 1,
20143 Milan,
+39 02 3656 6494,
antonioli.eu
In Store: Antonioli
Claudio Antonioli opened his frst boutique in Milan in 1987 and it soon
became a stylistic reference point. A few years later, the store moved to
its current location at Via Pasquale Paoli 1. Visitors to the store will fnd
an expertly curated selection of menswear and womenswear and here,
Ximena Daneri speaks to the owner about his fagship store.
SHOP | 63
LAPERLA.COM
MILANOVIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 1
Infuential art movements are informing Milan’s latest fashion designs, Harriet Quick reports
Creative
Edge
68 | FEATURES
Memorable fashion shows for the autumn/winter season could also be described as artistic happenings
Last season, designers were fxated with the
botanical universe, using wild blooms and
petal-like layers along with sufcient plant
references to fll a natural history museum.
For autumn and winter, they have turned
their attention to the more enigmatic and
intellectually challenging realm of modern
art, specifcally to the Bauhaus and Fluxus
movements and the ephemeral world of
installation and performance art.
The fashion/art friendship is as old
as fashion itself and this latest courtship is
resulting in high-profle collaborations and
sponsorships of art fairs, such as Frieze
London and Fiac in Paris, which kicks
of the autumn season, as well as in more
subtle infuences on cut, construction
and presentations.
In the research for her latest menswear
and womenswear collections, Miuccia Prada
(who also oversees Prada’s art foundation)
delved into the radical work of the 1970s
Fluxus movement. Fluxus comprised
international artists with backgrounds in
art, flm and music, who valued spontaneity,
humour and guerrilla interventions over formal
exhibitions and emphasised that any material,
from newspapers to broken crockery, could be
the subject and matter of art.
In a tribute to Fluxus artist Joseph Beuys,
who frequently covered objects, rooms and
even himself in felt and leather, Prada’s show
space in Milan was cloaked in thick grey
Previous: Agnona autumn/winter 2014/15Above (both): Prada autumn/winter 2014/15
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Above (from top): fashion and art collaborations are evident at art fairs like Frieze london, 2013; Prada autumn/winter 2014/15
industrial felt, which mufed the sound of the
models’ wedge heels as they emerged from the
catwalk, as if walking out of an underground
art movement’s secret gathering. An almost
anti-fashion style was evident: odd colour mixes
(brown, yellow and black), necklaces, ties and
fur trims brilliantly turned plain-speaking
clothes into conversation interrupters.
Other memorable fashion shows for the
autumn/winter season could also be described
as artistic happenings. A case in point was
Agnona’s presentation which was modelled
by Dree Hemingway, the brainy and beautiful
great granddaughter of Ernest Hemingway.
It took place in an Art Deco-inspired set that
was lined in leather, sheepskin and feathers,
and contained furry fowers and a feather
skirting board. Agnona’s creative director
Stefano Pilati projected the sensuality and
tactility of the luxury brand that is owned
by Italian powerhouse Ermenegildo Zegna.
Wearing a wave-pattern appliquéd cocoon
coat, leather evening gloves and wide-cut
trousers, Hemingway appeared to be an
extremely elegant art patron. Note that waves,
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Above (from lef): Agnona; Marni, both autumn/winter 2014/15
signifying ongoing change, was a favourite
metaphor for the Fluxus movement.
The interest and emphasis on fabric and
construction has led many designers to look
to the Bauhaus art school, which was founded
by architect Walter Gropius in 1919 as
a multidisciplinary arts and crafts institution.
Bauhaus’s striking, ornament-free architecture,
furniture and graphics have caught the
imagination of fashion designers. Consuelo
Castiglioni at Marni, and Pilati, have used bold
graphic colourways, innovative fabrication and
complex cutting techniques this season.
The interest and emphasis on fabric and construction has led many designers to look to the Bauhaus art school
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Above (both): Botega Veneta autumn/winter 2014/15
As the new season collections arrive in
store, the artful formula will be put to the test.
If you fnd yourself tempted by a cocooning
grey felted coat, or a double-face cashmere
panelled midi skirt, a colour-blocked sleeveless
jacket, a silk shirt dress or a pair constructivist
wedges, the art/fashion union has successfully
spread its word
prada.com, agnona.com,
bottegaveneta.com,
marni.com
At Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier, a man
who is very learned and passionate about art
and photography, created a compelling
collection that he referred to as ‘a puzzle’.
Fit-and-fare coat dresses and shifts featured
appliquéd geometric panels that were also a
lesson in the craft of construction.
Eveningwear was intricately assembled from
metres of tulle and chifon fabric in gradated
ripples which, from afar, looked like delicate
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SHOP | 77
Lef: Antonio Marras concept store/147 156164
From hidden ateliers to traditional stores and cafés, there is much to discover in the city, as Beth Druce fnds out
In Luca Guadagnino’s flm I Am Love, the
action revolves around a prestigious Milanese
family living in Villa Necchi Campiglio, an
historic mansion hidden behind the hustle
and bustle of the Duomo. It’s easy when
visiting Milan to be distracted by the stunning
architecture and 50 favours of gelato, but look
beyond the obvious attractions and a diferent
city is revealed, ready to engage you.
While many European cities will welcome
you with an outstretched arm, Milan can
appear aloof but, as Robyn Lea, author of
‘Milan: Discovering Food, Fashion and Family
in a Private City’, says, ‘In the same way that
The Magic
of Milan
78 | FEATURES
Above (from top): Antonio Marras’s concept store; Robyn Lea, author of ‘Milan: Discovering Food, Fashion and Family in a Private City’
deeply private or reserved people can be hard
to read and often misunderstood, so is the city
of Milan.’
For Australian-born Lea, who moved to
Milan at the age of 18, the city’s ‘tastemakers’
slowly reeled her in; names like Carla Sozzani,
founder of 10 Corso Como, and the legendary
designer Barnaba Fornasetti. ‘Milan is like a big
creative machine, and when you live there, you
want to be a part of that energy and creative
force, or you won’t enjoy it,’ says Lea.
Consequently, Lea urges visitors to
immerse themselves in creative spaces, such
as Antonio Marras’s concept store, an old
factory where one could spend a day perusing
the eclectic pieces. Finding the studio of
metal sculptors Osanna and Madina Visconti
di Modrone illustrates just how tricky the
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with its intricate accessories and avant-garde
homeware, remains one of the city’s best-kept
secrets. The atelier ‘has no sign on the street
and is only accessed with permission from
the doorman, through the ancient internal
courtyard’ according to Lea.
This is where tour provider Antiques &
Boutiques can help. The company provides
tailor-made tours which focus on the design,
style, food and culture that captures the true
spirit of Milan. The company says that its tours
‘are curated and led by passionate and dynamic
locals who invite you to share the city that they
know and love’. One of the stops on the tour is
at the vintage shop Cavalli e Nastri in the Brera
zone, a neighbourhood which houses many of
Above (from top): Cavalli e Nastri; handmade bronze bowls by Osanna Visconti di Modrone
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Above (clockwise from top lef): Ex Mauri; the pool at Ceresio 7; Luini’s mezzaluna pizza; the interior of Luini
the city’s art galleries and which is dotted with
interior design boutiques.
Another way to penetrate Milan’s exterior
is via what Italians love the most, food, and
in many ways it’s the culture of eating that’s
signifcant rather than the food itself. Lea
advises visitors to the city to start each day
with cofee al bar at Taveggia, one of the oldest
patisseries in Milan.
Later in the day try Luini. Situated on Via
Santa Redegonda it’s been baking panzerotti
(stufed savoury pastries) and pizzas since
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For dinner, head to chef Elio Sirroni’s restaurant Ceresio 7 with its exceptional views and flavours
‘Today the kids who used to come to eat
panzerotti after school return with their own
children,’ the Luini family explains. Locals
also fock to Ex Mauri on Via Federico
Confalonieri, where Venetian dishes such as
calamari ripieni (stufed squid), pasta with
courgette fowers, and crusted salt cod are
light alternatives to rich and hearty Milanese
cuisine. For dinner, head to chef Elio Sirroni’s
restaurant Ceresio 7 with its exceptional views
and favours.
Finally, and in a completely diferent vein,
the Fortura Giocattoli toyshop on Via Olmetto
84 | FEATURES
is the oldest in Milan, founded in 1914. It is
the perfect example of somewhere that might
not exude obvious appeal, yet retains a loyal
following and represents the ‘real’ Milan.
‘The experiences most valuable take the
most efort. And when a person is prepared
to discover and uncover Milan and love the
city even when the feeling is not reciprocated,
eventually the barriers will be removed and the
city will open her heart,’ Lea concludes
antoniomarras.it, osannavisconti.it,
cavallienastri.com, antiquesandboutiques.com,
taveggia.it, luini.it, exmauri.com, ceresio7.com,
fortura.it
Above (from top): Ceresio 7 interior; a dish from Ceresio 7
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The Aquazzura HighHeel
SHOP | 87
Aquazzura is responsible for one of the most recognisable shoes this decade. Olivia Miles
talks to Edgardo Osorio, the man behind the design
Iconic shoe design will always defne the era in which it was conceived: consider the platforms of the 1960s, the classic 1980s stiletto heel and the ballet pumps of the ’90s. And now, Aquazzura’s Sexy Thing cut-out bootie encapsulates all that is great and good about fashion in the 2010s.
This variation of the closed-in ankle boot was created by Edgardo Osorio, the Colombian-born designer who founded Aquazzura in Florence in 2011; this was his frst design for his label. Following a decade working for Salvatore Ferragamo, Osorio had seen how Tuscany was home to the ‘best shoe craftsmen and best leathers in the world’ and decided that Italy was where he would launch his own label. His designs are available around the world, including in La Rinascente in Milan.
Inspired by the writer Truman Capote’s glamorous female friends of the 1960s, whom
In Focus:
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Above: sketch by Edgardo Osorio for the Aquazzura Sexy Thing design for autumn/winter 2013/14
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Above (from lef): Aquazzura creative director Edgardo Osorio; black wedge, spring/summer 2014
Today, the Sexy Thing bootie is worn by international style icons of different ages, from Cara Delevingne and Emma Watson to Solange Knowles and Natalia Vodianova
Capote called swans, Osorio sought to create
a shoe for the ‘swans of today’. ‘I’m a Latin
man and love to dance,’ he says. ‘I went to so
many weddings and remember seeing girls take
of their shoes before they started dancing. I
wanted to create a shoe a girl could dance the
night away in.’
Instantly recognisable due to its cut-out
style and thin 11cm heel, it’s the sensual, skin-
baring element of the design that gives it such
a distinctive feel. ‘The cut-out is what makes it
so sexy as it shows some skin, but the foot is still
very much covered,’ explains Osorio.
Following its launch in 2011, the shoe’s
popularity was spearheaded by the Italian
fashion editor Giovanna Battaglia who was
frequently photographed wearing the shoe in
a variety of shades and the design became an
instant hit among the fashion set. Battaglia’s
exuberant style is a perfect match for the Sexy
Thing, with its mix of sensual yet cutting-edge
design and fashes of bright colour. What’s
distinctive about the Sexy Thing beyond its
90 | FEATURES
design is the vibrant selection of colourways in
which it is available, in recognition of fashion’s
current focus on bold, saturated hues. Today,
the Sexy Thing bootie is worn by international
style icons of diferent ages, from Cara
Delevingne and Emma Watson to Solange
Knowles and Natalia Vodianova.
‘I like to think that my shoes are trans-
generational,’ says Osorio. ‘You can wear it
all year round and dress it up or down. I’ve
seen celebrities on the red carpet wear it with
evening gowns as well as girls on the beach
with denim shorts and a T-shirt. That’s why it’s
so modern: it’s very efortless and works with
almost any outft.’
The body of the shoe is made from an
unlined cashmere suede that naturally takes
on the shape of the foot. In fact, the Sexy
Thing bootie was the frst design to utilise
Aquazzura’s production technique, which
is now patented. According to the company,
this ‘second skin’ technology is unique to
Above (from top): crafing the Sexy Thing shoe; the yellow heel, spring/summer 2014
Aquazzura and makes the shoes incredibly soft
and comfortable, as if ‘you are wearing a glove
on a high heel’.
Comfort also comes from the sole of the
shoe, the result of time invested by artisans who
studied a myriad of techniques for construction
92 | FEATURES
Above: Roccia Elaphane heel, cruise collection 2014
and ft. ‘The man who creates my lasts came up
with a way of constructing the shoe so that the
weight of the body is more evenly distributed
around the ball of the foot, the arch and the
back, as opposed to having all the weight of
your body on the ball of your foot which makes
it uncomfortable,’ says Osorio. This element
of the Sexy Thing led to it being known as the
‘fashion week shoe’ and the ‘24-hour shoe’, as it
became popular with fashion editors during the
launch of international collections.
‘Sexy Thing is a seasonless and timeless
shoe. My aesthetic refects the beauty and
sophistication of a certain kind of Italian
style that is never over designed or overdone.
It’s about small, luxurious details that make
something great, like everything else in life,’
Osorio concludes
aquazzura.com
‘You can wear it all year round and dress it up or down’ Edgardo Osorio
globalblue.com
94 | EXPER IENCE
Milan’s gastronomy is often said to refect
the city’s character; its restaurants ofer
cosmopolitan menus flled with favoursome,
hearty dishes that are relatively easy to prepare
in this fast-paced environment. Diners looking
for culinary diversity will be spoilt for choice
as no other Italian city ofers such a high
concentration of international restaurants,
from Moroccan bars and Asian-fusion
canteens to Irish gastro-pubs.
The city’s restaurant scene is one of the
most heavily populated in the world; the city
boasts 400 bars and restaurants for every
100,000 inhabitants. As a result, the dining
landscape is flled with culinary contrasts,
and tradition and innovation often coexist.
Heritage dishes with strong identities have been
maintained and developed by the country’s
leading experimental chefs while international
favours have also been widely embraced.
With striking décors and menus that
combine exotic favours with an Italian
sensibility, Milan’s fnest restaurants are also
some of its most intriguing with an infux of
young chefs helping to create one of Europe’s
leading restaurant scenes.
TABLE TALKFrom classic Italian kitchens to
contemporary Chinese dumplings,
Milan’s restaurants ofer a world of
options for adventurous gourmands.
Verity Hogan explores a selection of
the city’s fnest
SHOP | 95
B E n T o S u S H I
R E S T A u R A n T
The cosmopolitan interior
of Bento Sushi Restaurant
refects the modern way its
menu embraces innovation
while remaining true to
Japanese tradition. The fnest
ingredients combined with
the chef’s creativity result in
dishes such as udon soup with
lotus fowers, slow-cooked
pork with mustard and pak
choi, and tataki salmon with
wasabi honey sauce. Dishes
are complemented by an
extensive wine list, ofering
over 100 vintages from
Italy and France, alongside
a selection of Japanese-
inspired cocktails.
Bento Sushi Restaurant,
Corso Garibaldi 104,
20121 Milan,
+39 02 659 8075,
bentosushi.it
96 | EXPER IENCE
globalblue.com
D i m S u m
Dim Sum ofers diners an authentic taste of
Chinese cuisine in central milan. The menu
features traditional dim sum, updated to
suit current tastes, using high-quality fresh
ingredients. its dining room is suitably refned,
with a sleek and modern design free from
Oriental kitsch while the open kitchen allows
diners to watch the chefs at work. The menu
is designed for sharing, featuring a range of
fresh favours and light dishes.
There is a variety of options available
on Dim Sum’s menu, from meat, fsh and
vegetable plates to soups and small cakes,
steamed or fried. Start your meal with a
serving of fried shrimp rolls before choosing
between main meal options that include beef
with ginger and leek, salt and pepper fried
squid, crispy duck and sautéed noodles – all
accompanied by a glass of chilled Perrier
Jouet Champagne.
Dim Sum,
Via Nino Bixio 29, 20129 milan,
+39 02 2952 2821, dim-sum.it
98 | EXPER IENCE
globalblue.com
L a r t e
taking a concept store approach to fne dining,
Larte not only showcases Italian cuisine but
also highlights the country’s art, design, culture
and fashion. the restaurant is complemented
by a café, chocolate shop, osteria and art
gallery, all sharing the same historic space -
the former residence of writer and poet Carlo
emilio Gadda. the recently opened restaurant
serves Mediterranean cuisine, centred on
deceptively simple recipes that incorporate
fresh fsh, vegetables and pasta. Chef Gennaro
Immobile is one of Milan’s new talents and is
known for making the most of his ingredients.
everything in the restaurant is for sale,
including all of the furniture and works of art;
designers Carlo Molino and Fortunato Depero
are just two of those featured in the space.
Larte,
Via Manzoni 5, 20121 Milan,
+39 02 8909 6950,
opening.lartemilano.com
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M a M a i
Mamai specialises in homespun italian
cuisine, with every dish striking the perfect
balance between aesthetics and favour. as a
whole, the menu is creative and contemporary,
featuring dishes such as roasted octopus with
mashed sweet potato and orange, and crispy
sweetbreads glazed with veal stock, nuts and
creamy Stilton. The wine list ofers over 100
options to complement the range of dishes.
The restaurant’s name translates to ‘mother’
in Gaelic and the atmosphere is suitably
homely to refect its moniker. Enjoy the
restaurant’s relaxed ambience and service
levels which are never less than professionally
perfect. Be sure to try one of the restaurant’s
tasting menus; Water, Earth or Chef.
Mamai,
Via adige 9,
20135 Milan,
+39 02 8721 3909,
mamaimilano.it
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globalblue.com
102 | EXPER IENCE
The world’s fnest hotels have locations in the most sought-after city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities ranging from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spa facilities ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best
Stay in Style
GreAt FoSterS
Probably built as a royal hunting lodge in 1550, Great Fosters continues to ofer an experience ft for a king in its beautifully preserved Grade I-listed property. The house is set in 50 acres of gardens and parkland, featuring an outdoor heated swimming pool, tennis court, walled garden and lake. Inside, each of the hotel’s 43 rooms has a diferent décor, from the historic
grandeur of the Panel II and Italian suites to the more modern luxury of the Coach House rooms. Be sure to dine in the elegant Tudor Room, which serves an exquisite tasting menu in a unique setting.Great Fosters,Stoude Road, Egham, Surrey TW20 9UR, +44 (0)1784 433822,greatfosters.co.uk
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Arthotel BlAue GAnS
Located on Salzburg’s most prestigious street, minutes from Mozart’s birthplace, Blaue Gans’ modern minimalist interior provides a welcome contrast to its historic surroundings. The hotel prides itself on its art collection; more than 100 pieces of contemporary art can be found
displayed in the winding corridors and large, bright and airy rooms. Service is exemplary, attentive yet never stifing, while added extras including in-room massages add a touch of luxury to your stay.Arthotel Blaue Gans,Getreidegasse 41-43, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 842 4910, hotel-blaue-gans-salzburg.at
E X PE R I E NCE | 103
EXPER IENCE | 105
globalblue.com
Renaissance
BaRcelona Hotel
The Renaissance Barcelona Hotel is renowned
for ofering its guests an exceptional standard
of service, as well as sleek, contemporary
interior design. Each of its guestrooms features
luxurious bedding, individual climate-control
settings, high-speed Internet and modern
bathroom suites, while the ftness centre,
open 24 hours a day, is an added perk. Be
sure to dine at the hotel’s highly acclaimed
steakhouse; Cru serves only the fnest Black
Angus beef alongside a carefully selected
range of premium wines.
Renaissance Barcelona Hotel,
Pau Claris 122, 08009 Barcelona,
+34 93 272 3810,
marriott.com
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globalblue.com
South Place hotel
Ofering 80 Conran-designed rooms at the heart of the City of London, the South Place Hotel is one of the capital’s most stylish new openings. The hotel ofers an array of luxurious amenities, with a team of staf on hand to cater to your every need; enjoy a menu of gourmet seafood at Angler restaurant, try an original cocktail in one
of the three bars or relax in Le Chifre private lounge. Each room is also lavishly appointed and features a Bang & Olufsen television, St Clement’s bath products by James Heeley and cleverly designed ambient lighting.South Place Hotel, 3 South Place, London EC2M 2AF, +44 (0)20 3503 0000,southplacehotel.com
106 | E X PE R I E NCE
Guide
108 | GUIDE
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Milan with a look
at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the most peaceful parks to the fnest
fashion boutiques. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper
with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints
and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/milan.
A GLIMPSE OF MILAN
Set in the centre of Milan with streets radiating out from its position, the Duomo
is one of the city’s most magnifcent sights. Its Gothic façade, in dazzling white, is
decorated with an array of sculpted statues and spires, ranging from gargoyles on
guard to a likeness of the Madonna.
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Above: Duomo di Milano
HANNELI MUSTAPARTA
wearing the Colour Block Coat
MA X ANDCO.COM
110 | GUIDE
globalblue.com
SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY
‘Milan’s status as a centre of
commerce, fashion and culture
gives the city a cosmopolitan feel
and distinctive energy’ Verity
Hogan, SHOP’s city guide and
lifestyle editor
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SHOP | 111
Follow our team’s travels on
Instagram @globalblue. Tag
us in your city pictures when
sharing them and you might
see them in print!
112 | GUIDE
Milan
VIA
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VIA SAN TOMA SO
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VIA
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VIA FIORI CHIARI
VIA PONTACCIO
PIA Z Z A C A STELLO
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VIA
ME
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ON
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SA
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A M
AR
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ITA
Piazza Pio XI
Piazza
Cordusio
Piazza
Castello
Piazza Santa
Maria Beltrade
Piazza
Scala
Piazza San Marco
Piazza
Del Duomo
Piazza Affari
CASTELLO SFORZESCO
PICCOLO
TEATRO
TEATRO ALLA SCALA
PINACOTECA DI BRERA
BASILICA
DI SAN MARCO
BIBLIOTECA AMBROSIANA
TEATRO
LITTA
PALAZZO
DELLA BORSA
CAIROLI
DANTE CORDUSIO
DUOMO
Place Of Interest Tourist Information Metro
page
132
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SHOP | 113
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VIA M OZART
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VIA FATEBENEFR ATELLI
VIA
SE
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VIA
SA
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SPIR
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VIA V
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VIA
SAN
T’ANDREA
V
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VIA
MO
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EN
AP
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ON
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CORSO MATTEOTTI CORSO MATTEOTTI
CORSO MONFORTE
VIA
SA
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RO
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L’OR
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VIA
BO
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VIA AGN
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VIA
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ORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II
VIA
MA
NZ
ON
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VIA
MA
NZ
ON
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VIA PALESTRO
VIA PALESTRO
Piazza
San Carlo
Piazza
Meda
Piazza
Croce
Rossa
Piazza
San Babila
Piazza
Cavour
MUSEO POLDI PEZZOLI
VILLA BELGIOIOSO &
GALLERIA D'ARTE MODERNA
MUSEO
BAGATTI
VALSECCHI
CHIESA DI
SAN BABILAPALAZZO
MARINO
DUOMO
PALAZZO REALE
VILLA NECCHI
CAMPIGLIO
CONSERVATORIO
GIUSEPPE VERDI
PALAZZO
MORANDO
TEATRO NUOVO
MUSEO CIVICO
DI STORIA
NATURALE
MUSEO DEL NOVECENTO
SAN BABILA
MONTENAPOLEONE
PALESTRO
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114 | GUIDE
VIA
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VIA TOMMASO GROSSI
VIA
AR
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VIA
SP
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AR
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SA
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A M
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ITA
VIA
S. P
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LIC
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VIA
OR
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TO
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VIA
DE
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OL
LO
VIA DEI MERCANTI
VIA
ME
NG
ON
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VIA
MA
ZZ
INI
VIA GAETANO GIARDINO
GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II
VIA
S.R
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VIA
UG
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CO
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GA
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IA V
ITT
OR
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MA
NU
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VIA
SA
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A M
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VIA
CO
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● M
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Piazza Scala
Piazza Pio XI
DANTE CORDUSIO
PiazzaMercanti
Del DuomoPiazza DUOMO
AU
TO
GR
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●
CU
RR
AD
O ●
GR
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LD
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RU
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SA
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SI ●
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●
AR
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TRUSSARDI ●
Ristorante Cracco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II Area
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II & Via San Pietro all’Orto
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Places Of Interest Metro
Restaurant
VIA
AG
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LLO V
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. RA
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A
VIA
SA
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AF
FA
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GA
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NU
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● BORSALINO● CENTENARI● MEJANA● PIUMELLI● CHURCH’S● NOLI● BRIC’S● GUCCI● GIORGIO ARMANI
● LOUIS VUITTON
Del DuomoPiazza DUOMO
Piazza Scala
● OXUS
● VIGANÓ
● LIBRERIA BOCCA
● MASSIMO DUTTI
VERSACE ●
MERCEDES BENZ ●
ISTITUTO POLIGRAFICO ●
STEFANEL ●
NARA CAMICIE ●
CADÉ ●
COMUNE DI MILANOURBAN CENTRE ●
RIZZOLI ●
ANDREW'S TIES ●
LUISA SPAGNOLI ●LEO PIZZO ●
PRADA ●
TOD’S ●SWAROVSKI ●
● PRADA
While the city views afforded from the roof of the Duomo are
some of the finest in Milan, the best view of the Duomo itself is
reserved for those visiting the rooftop cafés of La Rinascente
department store. Seats on the terrace are set almost within
reach of the cathedral spires, while the cocktails available
are sure to impress. If the weather doesn’t allow for al fresco
dining then be sure to pay a visit to Obika Mozzarella bar, which
offers the same impressive views, albeit undercover, as well as
a menu of classic Italian cuisine, fine Mozzarella cheese and a
selection of local wines.
TOP TIP
P.51
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SHOP | 115
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CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II
VIA
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2 ●
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SW
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PiazzaSan
Carlo ● S
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● H
&M
● N
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● S
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● O
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● L
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PA
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● IL
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● M
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● M
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● L
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● ● A
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ISA
● F
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● IN
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Piazza Meda
PiazzaSan Babila
SAN BABILA
DUOMO
CLARKS ●
MARIUCCIA ●
Ex
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lsio
r
FOOTBALL TEAM ●
SUPERDRY ●
La
Rin
as
ce
nt
e
● BULGARI
Featured In This IssueDepartment Store
CORSO MATTEOTTI CORSO MATTEOTTI
VIA
SA
N P
IET
RO
AL
L’O
RT
O
VIA
MO
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EN
AP
OL
EO
NE
VIA
BA
GU
TTA
JIL SANDER ●
BOGLIOLI ●
MASCHIO ●
EYE STYLE ●
POMELLATO ●
VERSACE COLLECTION ●
VALLI ●
SAMSONITE ●
MAURO LEONE ●
CONTIGO ●
BOSE ●
FOR PETS ONLY ●
● ISAIA
● BAGUTTA
● ABERCROMBIE & FITCH
ZEPTER
● INTERNATIONAL
● BROOKS BROTHERS
● PRONOVIAS
● SANDRO FERRONE
● MARCO
● PAM
Piazza
San Carlo
Piazza
San Babila
SAN BABILA
Gobbi 1842
Historic family-owned jewellers Gobbi 1842 is known for
stocking jewellery and timepieces by some of the world’s
most prestigious international brands. The team of endlessly
accommodating staff is on hand to guide you through pieces
by brands such as Rolex and Patek Phillipe.
Gobbi 1842,
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 15,
20122 Milan,
+39 02 7602 0536
& Other Stories
& Other Stories’ distinctive collection is infused with effortless
Scandinavian cool.
& Other Stories, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 1, 20122 Milan,
+39 02 8909 6303,
stories.com
Marella
Max Mara’s diffusion line Marella echoes its parent label’s
elegant aesthetic with versatile, contemporary pieces with
universal appeal.
Marella, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 2, 20122 Milan,
+39 02 7601 2747,
marella.com
TOP STORES AROUND THE DUOMO
P.117
P.52
GUIDE | 117
Boglioli
A family frm known for its commitment
to italian tailoring traditions, Boglioli
is one of the country’s fnest menswear
manufacturers. The company’s collections
exude masculine elegance while its exacting
approach to production ensures that
every item produced is unique. Wools and
cashmere are used to great efect throughout
the range, while Boglioli’s signature skills
can be found in its lightweight suiting and
meticulously neat cuts.
Boglioli,
Via San Pietro all’orto 17, 20121 Milan,
+39 02 7639 4051,
boglioli.it
* for map go to page 115
VAnnucci
Multibrand boutique Vannucci plays host
to a diverse clothing range that spans
the wardrobe spectrum from tailored
businesswear to ultra luxury sportswear.
The store caters for men and women
with a collection that includes prestigious
international labels as well as local italian
brands. Expect pieces by Kiton, Santoni,
Jacob cohen, Barba and Truzzi to be among
the range.
Vannucci,
galleria San Babila 4c, 20122 Milan,
+39 02 784938,
vannucci.it
* for map go to page 120
globalblue.com
12
120 | GUIDE
Piazza San Babila Area
Piazza San Babila, Corso Matteotti, Via Bigli, Corso Venezia & Corso Europa
Featured In This Issue
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer Metro Bar
Piazza San Babila
VIA G
ESÙ
VIA
SA
NTO
SPIR
ITO
VIA
SA
N P
AO
LO
LA
RG
O C
OR
SIA
DE
I SE
RV
I
VIA
VIS
CO
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I DI M
OD
RO
NE
UB
ER
TO
VIA
MA
RZ
IALE
MA
RC
O V
AL
ER
IO
VIA
AN
SE
LM
O R
ON
CH
ET
TI
VIA
BE
CC
AR
IA
CO
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O E
UR
OP
A
CO
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O V
EN
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IA
VIA
BO
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OS
PE
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VIA
BIG
LI
VIA
PA
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AR
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VIA
CE
RV
A
VIA
DU
RIN
I
VIA
BA
GU
TT
A
VIA P. VERRI
V
IA S
ANT’ANDREA
V
IA SAN PRIMO
CO
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O V
EN
EZ
IA
VIA BORGOGNA
VIA
DE
LL
A S
PIG
A
VIA
SE
NA
TO
VIA
SA
N D
AM
IAN
O
VIA MARINA
VIA
MO
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EN
AP
OL
EO
NE
VIA
MO
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EN
AP
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EO
NE
CORSO MATTEOTTI
CORSO MONFORTE
VIA
SA
N P
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RO
AL
L’OR
TO
C
ORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II
● SALMOIRAGHI VIGANÒ ● MORESCHI● BROSWAY● BOGGI● BALDININI TREND● BAGATT● DIESEL
● GUESS● EDDY MONETTI
● EDDY MONETTI● FLORSHEIM● MOMO DESIGN
● NESPRESSO● MAZZOLARI
● VANNUCCI
VODAFONE ●
BOGGI ●
TRU TRUSSARDI ●
STONE FLY ●
AVIREX ●
DEL MARE ●
● ADIDAS ORIGINALS
● JUVENTUS
● MARGHERITA
● DIMENSIONE DANZA
JH 1912 ●
BRIAN & BARRY ● BUILDING SAN BABILA
● GALLO
● LIBERO MILANO
● NATUZZI
● CASSINA
NORTH SAILS ●
BELLORA ●
BERETTA ●
MHWAY ●
BOGGI ●
● B&B ITALIA
● SILVIA
● NATURINO
● MHWAY
● S
UIT
SU
PP
LY
● V
ION
NE
T
● NELLA LONGARI
● TATRAS
● D MAGAZINE
● ASPESI
LA CARAMELLA● D'ORO
ANTICHITÀ PIVA & C. ●
● HSL
● MILANO OFFICIAL STORE
IITT
AL
A ●
FL
OS
●
● E
SC
AD
A●
JUS
T C
AV
AL
LI
● T
OM
BO
LIN
I
● U
NIF
OR
● R
OD
O●
MO
RO
NI G
OM
MA
● A
NG
EL
O G
AL
AS
SO
● F
INA
RT
● L
O S
CA
RA
BE
O D
’OR
O
Piazza San Carlo
CAMPAGNA ● CULTI ●
MOSCA ●MARVILLE
●
PARAH ●RENCO ●
NANDO MUZI ●
AEROSOLES ●
VIVIENNE
WESTW
OOD ●
LIVIANI ●
LA CALZA ●OTTICA ●
MY STYLE BAGS ●
MADINA ●
LINDARICO ●
LUCIANO
PADOVAN ●
MALLONI ●DOLCE & GABBANA ●
DOLCE & GABBANA BARBIERE ●
FLAVIO CASTELLANI ●
NERO GIARDINI ●
NERO GIARDINI JUNIOR ●
HENRY COTTON’S ●
DOLCE & GABBANA ●COS ●GRIMOLDI ●
BAGATT ●PRADA ●
BRACCIALINI ●P ZERO ●ZARA
HOME ●
● E’DE PADOVA
● STONE ISLAND
● ADD
● WOLFORD
● WHO’S WHO
● FRANCESCO BIASIA
● GAGÀ MILANO
● NAVIGARE
● NOMINATION
● EMPRESA
● ULTIMA EDIZIONE
● CHRISTOFLE
● ALBERTO GUARDIANI
● PAOLO TONALI
● RED VALENTINO
● LOVE MOSCHINO
● M MISSONI
● LIGHT TIM
E
BO
SS
ST
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Piazza Meda SAN BABILA
Sa
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P.48
P.117
Mil
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Milano | p iazza san Babi la, 1/3 - Ph +39 02 76280529
122 | GUIDE
1. Wait and See
Every item stocked at the Wait and See lifestyle boutique
has been selected by its fashion-forward owner, designer
Uberta Zambeletti. Her signature style and varied cultural
interests are reflected in the eclectic collection, which includes
womenswear, jewellery, stationery and vintage pieces sourced
from all over the world.
Wait and See,
Via Santa Marta 14, 20123 Milan,
+39 02 7208 0195,
waitandsee.it
2. Tearose
The flowers are always in full bloom at Tearose; this vibrant
fashion boutique stocks the finest international designer labels
and a selection of couture items and displays them surrounded
by intricate floral arrangements. Expect to discover pieces by
Carven, Acne Jeans, Balmain, Alexander Wang and Roland
Mouret standing out against the floral backdrop.
Tearose, Via Manzoni 27, 20121 Milan,
+39 02 8699 8767, tearose.it
* for map go to page 130
3. Gio Moretti
Gio Moretti has become something of an institution among
Milan’s most fashion-conscious residents. The boutique has a
reputation for stocking the leading avant-garde international
labels within its luxurious glass and marble interior. Brands
represented in store include Chloé, Lanvin, Balmain and
Phillip Lim but be sure to visit the store’s dedicated Ermanno
Scervino floor, which contains the label’s full collection.
Gio Moretti, Via della Spiga 4, 20121 Milan,
+39 02 7600 3186,
giomoretti.com
* for map go to page 128
MILAN’S TOP CONCEPT STORES
globalblue.com
1.
1.
Co u t u r e & ACC e s s o i r e s · J oA i l l e r i e · H o m e & A rt Co l l e C t i o n s
Villa MEiSSEN COUTURE®, Via MONTENapOlEONE 3, MilaNO · www.MEiSSEN.iT · TEl: +39 02 89423725
124 | GUIDE
Montenapoleone Area
Via Sant’Andrea, Via Pietro Verri & Piazza Meda, Via Gesù, Via Borgospesso & Via Santo Spirito
Non-Global Blue Retailer Place Of InterestGlobal Blue Retailer Metro
VIA
GESÙ
VIA
DE
LL
A S
PIG
A
VIA MARINA
VIA
SE
NA
TO
VIA
SA
N D
AM
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BIG
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SA
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Piazza San BabilaPiazza
San Carlo
VIA P
IETRO V
ERRI
VIA
SANT’A
NDREA
VIA SAN PRIMO
VIA
MO
NT
EN
AP
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ON
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V
IA M
AN
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NI
VIA
MA
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ON
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MONTENAPOLEONE
PiazzaCroceRossa
SAN BABILA
CORSO MATTEOTTI
CORSO MONFORTE
Piazza Meda
VIA
MO
NT
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À
SAIN
T LAU
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MIU
MIU
●
RO
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BOTTEG
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AG
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CHU
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AR
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CAR
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TRU
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BOR
SALIN
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GU
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PASQ
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JIMM
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●
CASA
DEI ●
PISA OR
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GER
IA ●
PATEK PHILIPPE -PISA ●
ETRO
PRO
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CRU
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JOH
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TUM
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TOM
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LAN
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●
CAN
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● B
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● JIL SA
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● M
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● SEBA
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● G
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● ER
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● CH
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● IR
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● STU
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● BA
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● CESA
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● D
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● M
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● M
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● VA
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AR
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● G
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● A
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● JIL SA
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● LA M
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● D
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●
PU
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●
CA
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CA
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LA
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BALDININ
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PRA
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CAIATI FINE ARTS ●BARBA ●
ORIENTAL ART RENZO FRESCHI ●ROSALBA ●
DOUCAL'S ●KITON ●
SILVANO LATTANZI ●BARRETT ●
TINCATI ●DORIANI CASHMERE ●
ZILLI ●
MIMÌ ●HUSKY ●
AL GINGILLO ●ACQUA DI PARMA ●
MUSEO BAGATTI VALSECCHI
● B
RIO
NI
VIA
BO
RG
OS
PE
SS
O
VIA
DE
LL
A S
PIG
A
VIA
MA
NZ
ON
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● HORA● SCHREIBER
● WALTER SHOES● INBORGOSPESSO 18
● GALLUCCI
● GALLERIA SILVA● TOP TIME MUSA
● BORGOSPESSO 6● SOLO BLU
MI.MI.SOL. ●
SILVANO LATTANZI ●
MARC CAIN ●
VERSACE HOME ●
YOUNG VERSACE ●
BORGOSPESSO 11 ●
DROGHERIA PARINI 1915 ●
VIA
GESÙ
V
IA G
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VIA
SA
NTO
SPIR
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VIA BIGLI
VIA
MA
NZ
ON
I
V
● DAAD DANTONE● CARLO TIVIOLI
● NEIL BARRETT ● DUVETICA
● DANIELE ALESSANDRINI● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE
● PAROSH● VHERNIER
● CORTO MOLTEDO
BALENCIAGA ●MAURO GRIFONI ●
ANTIQUARIATO BENSI ●GIOIELLI DI SANTO SPIRITO 13 ●
GIORGIO JANEKE ●GIANVITO ROSSI ●
BALLIN ●CHANTECLER ●
WALTER PADOVANI● ANTIQUARIO
STELLAMCCARTNEY ●
P.54
Featured In This Issue
HACKETT.COM
126 | GUIDE
Via Montenapoleone
Fratelli rossetti
When searching for the perfect pair of shoes,
Fratelli rossetti’s Via Montenapoleone store
provides an ideal ft. the store showcases
the brand’s high-quality and expert
craftsmanship, ofering styles that are classic
with a contemporary edge. those looking
for something unique should take advantage
of the store’s tailoring service; visitors can
have a pair of shoes made to measure to their
exact requirements by one master craftsman.
Fratelli Rossetti,
Via Montenapoleone 1,
20121 Milan,
+39 02 7602 1650,
fratellirossetti.com
PiazzaCroceRossa
VIA MARINA
VIA
SA
N P
AO
LO
VIA
BO
RG
OS
PE
SS
O
VIA
SA
NTO
SPIR
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VIA G
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VIA
MO
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VIA
DE
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PIG
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VIA
DE
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PIG
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Piazza San Carlo
VIA P
IETRO V
ERRI
VIA S
ANT’ANDREA
VIA M
ON
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NA
PO
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NE
VIA
MO
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VIA
SE
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SA
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V
IA M
AN
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CO
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EN
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CO
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Piazza San Babila
CORSO MATTEOTTI
CORSO MONFORTE
SAN BABILA
Piazza Meda V
IA S
AN
PIE
TR
O A
LL’O
RT
O
VERTU ●
ERMEN
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DO
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NA ●
VIERRE ●
MO
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NC ●
LORO
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NA ●
SERGIO
RO
SSI ●
EMIL
IO P
UCCI ●
TOY WATCH ●
CELINE ●
ANGELO FUSCO ●
OMEGA ●
TOSCA BLU ●
HOGAN ●
MASSIM
O SFORZA ●
MARIO
BUCCELLATI ●
PHILIP
P PLEIN
●
CUSI GIO
IELLIE
RI ●
DEVI KROELL ●
LOEWE ●
A.TESTONI ●
ITALIA
INDEPENDENT ●
BREGUET ●
FABI ●
BALDININ
I ●
GIADA ●
ASPESI ●
VERSACE ●
VENINI ●
HENRY BEGUELIN
●
OM
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LARUSMIA
NI ●
GUCCI ●
ETRO ●
NARA CAM
ICIE
●
BOTTEGA VENETA ●
SUTOR MANTELLASSI ●
VILLA M
EISSEN ●
FENDI ●
SALVATORE FERRAGAM
O ●
LA PERLA ●
MONCLER ●
OFFICIN
E PANERAI ●
SIMONETTA R
AVIZZA
BY ANNABELLA ●
JAEGER-LECOULTRE ●
PEDERZANI ●
FRATELLI ROSSETTI ●
● C
ORN
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● P
INKO
● G
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● P
ISA O
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GERIA
● G
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● G
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● S
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●
VALEN
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● A
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ALO
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● D
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● IC
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● A
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● D
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AN
● G
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ANOTTI DESIG
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● F
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● B
ALLY
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ABBADINI
● R
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● C
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● S
ANTONI
● P
RADA MEN’S
FASHION
● A
UDEMARS P
IGUET
● R
ALPH LAUREN
● G
IORGIO
ARM
ANI
● L
OUIS V
UITTON
● B
ULGARI
Cova
Metro CaféNon-Global Blue RetailerGlobal Blue Retailer
PH
OT
O: I
sa
Be
ll
a D
e M
aD
Da
le
Na
P.28
P.56
P.170
P.54
P.58
Featured In This Issue
P.58
128 | GUIDE
Spiga & Via Manzoni Area
Via della Spiga
VIA BIGLI
VIA
BIG
LI
VIA
SA
N P
IET
RO
AL
L’OR
TO
VIA
BA
GU
TT
AVIA V
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V
IA S
ANT’ANDREA
VIA SAN PRIMO
VIA DEL VECCHIO POLITECNICO
VIA
DI
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VIA FATEBENEFRATELLI
VIA
SA
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VIA
SA
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VIA
DE
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VIA
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PIG
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Piazza San Carlo
PiazzaCavour
VIA
MA
NZ
ON
I
V
IA P
ALE
STRO
VIA PALESTRO
CO
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O V
EN
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Piazza San Babila
MONTENAPOLEONE
VIA MARINA
CORSO MATTEOTTI
CORSO MATTEOTTI
Piazza Meda
VIA
DE
I BO
SC
HE
TT
I
VIA
MO
NT
EN
AP
OL
EO
NE
VIA
MO
NT
EN
AP
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ON
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C
OR
SO
VE
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VILEBREQUIN
●
CASTELLO D
’ORO ●
BYBLOS ●
COLOM
BO ●
PIQUADRO ●
FRETTE ●
DE NIC
OLA ●
HITCH - H
IKER ●
RUCOLINE ●
LANVIN ●
PHILIP
P PLEIN
●
GANDIN
I TESSUTI ●
TIFFANY &
CO. ●
BELSTAFF ●
FRANCK MULLER G
ENEVE ●
RICHARD M
ILLE ●
RIVOLTA D
AL 1883 MIL
ANO ●
FAY ●
POLLINI ●
MIU
MIU
●
SCAVIA
●
COLOMBO V
IA D
ELLA SPIG
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SIC
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MONCLER ●
BRUNELLO CUCIN
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GHERARDINI ●
KURT GEIG
ER ●
CAR SHOE ●
BUSATTI GIO
IELLI D
I
VIA D
ELLA SPIG
A ●
CHIMENTO ●
FALCONERI ●
CROMIA
●
HERNO ●
● PAKERSON
● M
ONNA LISA
● P
RETTY BALLERIN
AS
● M
ARISA
● R
OCCO BAROCCO
● M
ARNI
● B
LUGIRL B
LUMARIN
E
● M
ISS B
LUMARIN
E
● L
ES COPAIN
S
● M
AISON M
ARTIN M
ARGIELA
● S
ERMONETA
● R
OBERTO BOTTIC
ELLI
● FABIA
NA FILIP
PI
● R
OSATO
● I P
INCO PALLIN
O
● S
ERAPIAN
● P
ORSCHE DESIG
N
● A
LAN JOURNO
● M
EGA FASHION
● N
ILU FAR
● B
RUNELLO CUCIN
ELLI
●
º 30
N
● C
LAUDIA PAVIG
NANO
● B
LUMARIN
E
● M
OSCHINO
● D
OLCE & G
ABBANA
● T
OD’S
● S
PORTMAX
● P
RADA
● C
HOPARD
● M
ICHAEL K
ORS
● P
ASQUALE BRUNI
● P
EUTEREY
● L
ONGCHAMP
● G
IÒ M
ORETTI
● D
OLCE & G
ABBANA
PiazzaCroceRossa
SAN BABILA
Non-Global Blue RetailerGlobal Blue Retailer
P.56
P.50
P.122
Featured In This IssueMetro
130 | GUIDE
Via Manzoni & Via Fatebenefratelli
CO
RS
O D
I P
OR
TA
NU
OV
A
VIA
BO
RG
ON
UO
VO
VIA
BO
RG
ON
UO
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VIA
DE
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VIA
MA
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AR
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VIA DEL VECCHIO POLITECNICO
VIA
FIL
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AT
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VIA
DA
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LE
MA
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VIA
FR
AT
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LI G
AB
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CORSO MATTEOTTI CORSO MATTEOTTI
VIA
SA
NTO
SPIR
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VIA G
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VIA BIGLI
VIA
BIG
LI
VIA
MO
RO
NE
VIA DELL’ ANNUNCIATA
VIA DELL’ ANNUNCIATA
VIA
DE
LL
A S
PIG
A
VIA
DE
LL
A S
PIG
A
VIA
SA
N P
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RO
AL
L’OR
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VIA
BA
GU
TT
A
Piazza Scala
VIA V
ERRI
V
IA S
ANT’ANDREA
VIA
MO
NT
EN
AP
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ON
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VIA
MO
NT
EN
AP
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Piazza Meda
PiazzaCavour
VIA FATEBENEFRATELLI VIA FATEBENEFR ATELLI
VIA
SE
NA
TO
V
IA M
AN
ZO
NI
VIA
MA
NZ
ON
I
V
IA M
AN
ZO
NI
● CINZIA ROCCA
● FOGLIE DI TÉ
● FARSETTI ARTE
● PREATTONI 1902
● DOUGLAS
BOTTEGA
● DEL CASHM
ERE
● DE M
ATTIA
● SEVENTY
● DE W
AN
● DE M
ATTIA
● D MAGAZINE
● SIM
ONETTA
● M
ARTINELLI PRIMUS
● EL GANSO
● MISS GRANT
●
HACKETT
● E-GÒ
● 7 FOR ALL M
ANKIND
● PATRIZIA PEPE
● TW
INSET
● PAUL SM
ITH
● GANT
● 24 M
ANZONI
PELLICCE
● PELLINI
● PAL ZILERI
● CANTARELLI
● M
IRELLA DENTI
● FREY W
ILLE
● JO M
ALONE
● COCCINELLE
● SANDRO
● WOLFORD
● TIE-UPS
● GALLO
● CP COMPANY
● M
IDALI
● WANNENES
● FABIO INGHIRAM
I
● REPORTER
● M
ORTAROTTI
● GESSI
● ALESSI
● ARTEMIDE
● BIJOUX DE PARIS
● MIRCO CATTAI
● VERONESI
● M
ANZONI OTTICA
● MUSTO CALZATURE
● LA FELTRINELLI
DRUMOHR ●
SAHRAI ●
BELLORA ●
MANILA GRACE ●
ANNA RITAN ●
ILLULIAN ●
VITTORIA ●
HETTABRETZ ●
GRIMOLDI ●
MARYLING ●
ILLULIAN TAPPETI ●
ELISABETTA FRANCHI ●
DIRK BIKKEMBERGS ●
● D
AQ
UA
● P
RA
TA
& M
AS
TR
AL
E●
CA
VIO
AR
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DA
ME
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SM
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VIS
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IRE
●
SC
AV
IAARMANI MANZONI 31 ●
PENNISI ●
WALTER VOULAZ ●
KENZO ●
PIACENZA CASHMERE ●
VILLA ●
MARINELLA CRAVATTE ●
LES COPAINS ●
CRUCIANI ●
LORI BLU ●
LA PERLA ●
BRUSADELLI ●
BONPOINT ●
TEAROSE ●
COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ●
SAWAYA & M
ORONI ●
FRETTE ●
BOLAFFI ●
DAVIDE CENCI ● PO
LDI PEZ
ZO
LI MU
SEU
M
PiazzaCroceRossa
MONTENAPOLEONE
VALEXTRA ●
● M
ARI
GA
LLERIA
MA
NZ
ON
I
● SAHRAI
● FOTO OTTICA CAVOUR
LARTE ●
Non-Global Blue Retailer Place Of InterestGlobal Blue Retailer Metro
P.122
Featured In This Issue
P.50
Mil
an
o V
ia M
an
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ni,
20
T.
+3
9 0
2 7
63
94
68
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ViS
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132 | GUIDE
Dante & Magenta Area
Corso Magenta
Gum Salon
Combining 1950s style with Hollywood
glamour, Gum Salon ofers men a luxurious
take on the barbershop experience. The
team spends time getting to know every
client, tailoring a style to suit using the
salon’s own range of organic hair products.
Styles are designed for modern men but
often have a retro, rockabilly edge. The salon
itself makes a strong style statement; black
tiles, painted brick and dressing room bulb
lighting give the space a unique character.
Gum Salon,
Via Vetere 10, 20123 milan,
+39 02 3660 1940, gumsalon.it
VIA
BE
RN
AR
DIN
O L
UIN
I
VIA
SA
N N
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LA
VIA
NIR
ON
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VIA SANT'A
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FORO BUONAPARTE
VIA
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SU
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AR
DU
CC
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VIA GIACOMO PUCCINI
VIA
SA
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AN
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UL
MU
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VIA
BR
ISA
V
IA B
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A
VIA
DA
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VIA SANTA MARIA FU
LCORIN
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VIA
BO
RR
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VIA
PO
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V
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VIA
MA
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CA
MP
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CORSO MAGENTA
CORSO MAGENTA VIA MER AVIGLI
CE
RA
TIN
A 19
19 ●
ILA
RIA
FO
LL
I ●
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Non-Global Blue Retailer Place Of InterestGlobal Blue Retailer
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134 | GUIDE
Via Dante & Via Torino
V
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OR
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VIA
BR
OL
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VIA
BR
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VIA
AM
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VIA DELL A POSTA
VIA
SPA
DA
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VIA CUSANI
VIA
ME
NG
ON
I
VIA
MA
ZZ
INI
VIA
DE
LL
'UN
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VIA MER AVIGLI
VIA GI UL
INI
VIA SAN TOMASO
VIA DEI BOSSI
VIA SANTA RADEGONDA
VIA
S.P
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LIC
O
V
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TA M
AR
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VIA
SA
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VIA
CO
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VIA GAETANO NEGRI
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MISSORI
VIA
SA
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ITA
VIA PORRONE
V
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LM
AZ
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CAIROLI
VIA
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Piazza Pio XI
PiazzaCordusio
DANTE CORDUSIO
VIA
SA
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MA
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FULC
OR
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VIA
DE
L B
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Piazza S.MariaBeltrade
VIA
AR
RIG
O BOITO
VIA
SA
N P
RO
TAS
O
ZARA ●
OVS INDUSTRY ●
BERSHKA ●MM ●
BIBA ●BOTTEGA VERDE ●
SWEET WAY ●MAC ●
BOUTIQUE DEL GIOIELLO ●TRE ESSE SPORT ●
SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●CIP GIOIELLI ●
PULL & BEAR ● OLTRE ●
KIEHL'S ●GUESS ●
TEZENIS ●TALLY WEIJL ●
DIXTIE ●
● LUIGI VERGA● INTIMISSIMI
● MARILENA● CALZEDONIA
● NARA CAMICIE● CAMPER
● GEOX● FOOT LOCKER
● ENERGIE / MISS SIXTY● MANGO
● MCS
● VERGELIO● CARPISA
● KIKO● KEY BE
● PIMKIE ● ACCESSORIZE
● YAMAMAY● MARCO
● OTTICA BARELLO
● GIOIELLERIA FUGAZZI● TRONY
GOLDEN POINT ●SOLARIS ●
LE COQ SPORTIF ●SWAROVSKI ●
AEROSOLES ●FOOT LOCKER ●
LO BY LOVABLE ●OVS ●
PIQUADRO ●
ALDO ●
GUESS ●
MAX & CO ●
ANGELICO ●
G STAR RAW ●
OTTICA VIGEVANO ●D’AUGUSTA GIOIELLI ●
CLASS ●CARLO PAZOLINI ●
IMAGINARIUM ●
LA CITTA' DEL SOLE ●
DEL MARE 1911 ● PERLIER ●
FOOTBALL CENTRE ●SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●
DESIRÈE PROFUMERIA ●MAX MARA ●
● R
ON
CH
I
OYSHO ●
● DU PAREIL...AU MÊME ● JACADI
● NADINE● DANTE 16
● YAMAMAY ● GRISSPORT
● CELIO ● SEPHORA
● L’OCCITANE● PETIT BATEAU
● GUTTERIDGE● CAMICISSIMA
● UNO DE 50 ● LACOSTE
● BATA ● CHICCO
● GEOX ● KIEHL'S
● ELENA MIRÒ● CANETTA
● GUESS ● PAOLO CLERICI DAL 1780
● MUSTO ● MADINA
● IMPERIAL● KIKO
● STUDIO LA PERLA● CARPISA
● TRIUMPH● TIM
● WIND
● L'ERBOLARIO
● BATA
● ALDO CITTERIO ● 3 STORE
● GIOIELLERIA FEDELI ● PELLETTERIA RICCARDI
● VODAFONE● OROLOGERIA AL DUOMO
● SAVINELLI● LE SCARPE DI PAOLO
● BLU SAND
Non-Global Blue RetailerGlobal Blue Retailer
P.52
Featured In This IssueMetro
136 | GUIDE
Corso Buenos Aires Area
Corso Buenos AiresV
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VIA MASCAGNI PIETRO
VIA LAMBRO
V
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VIA ALVISE CADAMOSTO
VIALE TUN
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VIALE REGIN
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VANN
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Piazza SantaFrancesca Romana
BASTIO
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VIALE REGINA GIOVAN
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PiazzaGuglielmoOberdan
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VIA MARCELLO M
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VIA PAOLO FRISI
VIA LAZZARO
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SA
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VENETO
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C
OR
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BU
EN
OS
AIR
ES
C
OR
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BU
EN
OS
AIR
ES
PORTA VENEZIA
CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ●
VERGELIO ●SISTE’S ●
GAMESTOP ●CAMPER ●
STRADIVARIUS ●
FBL●
FOSSIL●
IANA ●SOLARIS ●
KIKO ●
STEFANEL ●
DOUGLAS ●PERSONA ●ALTIERI ●
SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●
● PIQUADRO● GUESS KIDS
● GUESS
● HILFIGER DENIM
● MERREL
● F.LLI SOLENNE GIOIELLI
● MILANO HOUSE OF CASHMERE
● LIU JO
● DIECIDECIMI
● FURLA
● CLARKSBRACCIALINI ●PANDORA ●
DESIGUAL ●STROILI ORO ●
SWAROVSKI ●
L’OCCITANE ●
● AERONAUTICA MILITARE
● SHADAO● ANTONY MORATO
Non-Global Blue RetailerGlobal Blue Retailer
1. Parco Sempione
One of Milan’s largest parks, Parco Sempione was designed
to make the most of its views of Castello Sforzesco and the
Arco della Pace. Visitors can admire both while also exploring
the collection of permanent sculptures by Francesco Barzaghi,
Giorgio de Chirico and Arman that line the parks many
winding pathways.
2. Giardini Pubblici Indro Montanelli
Established in 1784, the Giardini Pubblici Indro Montanelli is
the city’s oldest municipal park. The park follows French formal
styling with geometric flowerbeds and tree-lined corridors
while a statue of its namesake Indro Montanelli marks the ideal
spot for quiet contemplation.
3. Giardini di Villa Reale
The English-style garden surrounding the Villa Reale has
been designed with children in mind. The garden features lush
green lawns, cherry trees and a lake with waterfall as well as
an extensive children’s playground, fully equipped with swings
and slides.
MILAN’S MOST PEACEFUL PARKS
1
Metro
138 | GUIDE
Further aField…
Lake Como
located just an hour away from Milan,
lake Como is one of the region’s most
luxurious destinations. Snow-capped
mountains surround the lake while the
shoreline is dotted with picturesque
Mediterranean villas and enchanting
villages. the environment is inherently
romantic and its spectacular beauty has
inspired legions of poets, novelists and
composers over the centuries.
the region provides the perfect
escape from modern life and the area’s
loveliest villages, Bellagio, Varenna and
Menaggio, are located in Centro lago.
Bellagio is characterised by charming
earth-toned buildings and cobbled streets
that weave through cypress groves and
pretty gardens while visitors to the nearby
Villa Melzi will be rewarded with acres
of manicured lawns and ornate water
features. the majority of the attractions
of Varenna can be found on its outskirts;
be sure to climb up to the hilltop ruins of
Castello di Vezio which ofers panoramic
views across the lake.
how to get there
By Train
From Milan Centrale station, trains
to Como S giovanni station leave
approximately every hour. the journey
takes approximately one hour.
By Car
Follow signs to the a9 motorway,
connecting Milan to Switzerland, towards
Como-Chiasso. take the lago di Como
exit, the last before the Swiss border.
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globalblue.com
140 | GUIDE
Fidenza Village
Fidenza Village,
Via San Michele
Campagna,
43036 Fidenza,
+39 0524 33551,
fdenzavillage.com
Opening times
Monday-Sunday:
10am-8pm
PerFeCt Day
How to get tHere
By Car
exit the a1 motorway at
Fidenza/Salsomaggiore.
Pass the tollbooth and
Fidenza Village is 100
metres to your left.
By Train
From Milan:
Fidenza station is on the
direct line into Milano
Centrale with frequent
services and a journey
time of approximately
one hour 20 minutes.
Upon arrival, take the
shuttle bus to Fidenza
Village; tickets can be
purchased on board.
By Shuttle Bus
the Shopping express
luxury coach service
runs from central Milan
to Fidenza Village daily.
Shopping & Food
experience:
this exclusive package
includes:
• a guided tour of
Caseifcio Bertinelli
in the heart of
Parmigiano reggiano
• return tickets from
central Milan to
Fidenza Village by
Shopping express
• a VIP card providing
an additional 10%
saving across
the village
Don’t MISS …
Shopping & Art
experience:
this exclusive package
includes:
• entrance to the
galleria nazionale
di Parma with
its collection of
Italian renaissance
masterpieces
• return tickets from
central Milan to
Fidenza Village by
Shopping express
• a VIP card providing
an additional 10%
saving across the
village
10am
Start the day by perusing
the home accessories at
Calef, known for its
use of premium fabrics
such as Jacquard satin.
4pm
end your day admiring
the innovative collections
at Massimo Rebecchi.
this luxurious label is
known for combining
sleek Italian tailoring
with wearable comfort.
12pm
the footwear at Sutor
Mantellassi is sure to
impress. expect elegant
designs crafted by a
team of master cobblers
using traditional skills.
2pm
Stop for a break at
authentic Italian cofee
shop Ca’puccino. the
café ofers a comfortable
environment and a menu
that tours the diverse
regions and traditions of
Italian cuisine.
MILANO, Piazza Duomo 19 - contacts: +39 02 87 40 10 - [email protected]
142
/
169
162154
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Linate Airport:
Forexchange Maccorp, Departures
Downtown Milan:
La Rinascente (sixth floor next to customer
service desk), Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan
Contact:[email protected]+421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of €154.94 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some refund points an additional fxed fee per Tax Free Form is charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
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Translations
144
Русский ПеРевод
66: Creative Edge
искусство в моде
Хэриет Квик анализирует, как крупные течения в искусстве влияют на творчество миланских дизайнеров
В прошлом сезоне дизайнеры активно разрабатывали растительную тему, используя в коллекциях дикие цветы, лепестки и прочие ботанические мотивы. В сезоне осень/зима их внимание привлек более загадочный мир современного искусства, а особенно – арт-движения Баухаус и Флуксус, динамичные инсталляции и перформансы.
На протяжении всей своей истории мода стремится взаимодействовать с искусством. На современном этапе эти плодотворные отношения находят свое выражение в выдающихся совместных проектах и поддержке фестивалей современного искусства. В частности, этот осенний сезон открывается двумя заметными событиями в этой сфере – Frieze London и Fiac в Париже. Кроме того, искусство оказывается
существенное влияние на крой, силуэт, сложность конструкции одежды, а также на режиссуру модных показов.
Работая над новыми коллекциями для мужчин и женщин, Миучча Прада (она, кстати, курирует фонд поддержки искусства Prada) изучала архивы арт-движения 1970-х Флуксус. В нем участвовали радикально настроенные художники, кинематографисты и музыканты из разных стран, которые ценили спонтанность, юмор и партизанские интервенции в официальные формы искусства. Они считали, что любой материал, от газеты до сломанной посуды, может стать предметом и материалом искусства.
Вся сцена шоу-показа Prada в Милане была затянута в серый промышленный войлок: этот прием использовал художник Флуксуса Йозеф Бойс, покрывавший войлоком и кожей объекты, целые комнаты и даже себя самого. Модели появлялись из темноты, как бы выходя из секретного убежища андеграундного искусства, причем беззвучно, поскольку войлок приглушал звук их каблуков. В самой коллекции проявился практически анти-модный стиль: неожиданные цветовые сочетания (коричневый, желтый и черный),
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76: The Magic Of Milan
Магия Милана
Бет Дрюс рассказывает о необычных заведениях Милана, среди которых есть и известные только миланцам ателье, и старинные магазины и кафе
шейные ленты, галстуки и меховая отделка буквально приковала внимание зрителей.
Самые запоминающиеся модные показы сезона осень/зима недвусмысленно походили на художественные хэппенинги. Характерный пример – презентация коллекции Agnona, в которой приняла участие Дри Хемингуэй, талантливая и красивая правнучка писателя Эрнеста Хемингуэя. Для декораций к шоу был избран стиль ар-деко, отсюда – обилие кожи, овчины, перьев, меховых цветов и драпировки. А чувственностью и особым ощущением новую коллекцию бренда Agnona, принадлежащего модному дому Ermenegildo Zegna, наполнил его креативный директор Стефано Пилати. В пальто-коконе с неровными полосами, кожаных вечерних перчатках и широких брюках, Хемингуэй предстала в образе истинной покровительницы изысканного искусства. Примечательно, кстати, что подобные волны, как в аппликации на пальто, были излюбленной метафорой художников Флуксуса и обозначали наметившиеся перемены.
Особое внимание к тканям и конструированию различных форм привело многих дизайнеров к переосмыслению наследия движения Баухаус. Эта школа была основана архитектором Вальтером Гропиусом в 1919 году как междисциплинарный институт искусств и ремесел. Впечатляющая архитектура, мебель и графика, принципиально свободная от орнаментальности, захватывает воображение модных дизайнеров до сих пор. И Пилати, и Консуэло Кастильони из Marni в этом сезоне обратились к ярким графичным сочетаниям, инновационным тканям и сложным техникам кроя.
Томас Майер из Bottega Veneta страстно увлекается искусством и фотографией. Неотразимую коллекцию этого сезона он сам называет «паззлом»: облегающие платья с расширяющимся подолом и наряды-рубашки как бы собраны из отрезков ткани геометрических форм. Тем самым, они претендуют на эталонное мастерство кроя. А вечерние наряды с обильной тюлевой
и шифоновой драпировкой издалека смотрелись как изысканные графические рисунки с использованием градиента.
Томас Майер из Bottega Veneta страстно увлекается искусством и фотографией. Неотразимую коллекцию этого сезона он сам называет «паззлом»: облегающие платья с расширяющимся подолом и наряды-рубашки как бы собраны из отрезков ткани геометрических форм. Тем самым, они претендуют на эталонное мастерство кроя. А вечерние наряды с обильной тюлевой и шифоновой драпировкой издалека смотрелись как изысканные графические рисунки с использованием градиента.prada.com, agnona.com, bottegaveneta.com
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Сюжет фильма Луки Гуаданьино «Я – это любовь» вращается вокруг авторитетной миланской семьи, живущей в Villa Necchi Campiglio. Этот особняк с большой историей укрыт от посторонних глаз в нескольких шагах от шумного и многолюдного duomo. В Милане так легко увлечься великолепными соборами и джелатериями, но стоит только чуть отойти от очевидных достопримечательностей, как открывается совершенно иной город, в котором всегда найдется что-нибудь увлекательное. И если большинство европейских городов встречает гостей с распростертыми объятиями, то Милан с первого взгляда может показаться слишком холодным и отстраненным. Как пишет в своей книге «Милан: еда, мода и семья в замкнутом городе» Робин Леа, «Милан похож на закрытого, необщительного человека – его так же сложно сходу понять или почувствовать».
Робин Леа родилась в Австралии, а в 18 лет переехала в Милан, где постепенно подружилась с законодателями городских вкусов – основательницей марки 10 Corso Como Карлой Соззани и легендарным дизайнером Барнабой Форнасетти. «Милан – это большая креативная машина. А когда вы живете здесь, то либо становитесь частью этой энергии и удивительной творческой
силы, либо не получаете никакого удовольствия», - утверждает Леа.
Логично, что она рекомендует гостям города с головой погрузиться в творческое пространство Милана. Например, можно провести целый день, рассматривая эклектичную подборку в концепт-сторе Антонио Марраса, расположенном в индустриальном здании бывшей фабрики. Поиск входа в студию металлической скульптуры Осанны и Мадины Висконти ди Модроне иллюстрирует, насколько сложно ориентироваться в этом городе. За дверями скрытой от посторонних глаз (и оттого еще более привлекательной) студии мастерской скрываются замысловатые аксессуары и авангардная домашняя утварь. Леа отмечает, что ателье «не обозначено вывеской с улицы, а войти в него можно только через старинный внутренний двор, предварительно получив разрешение привратника».
Компания Antiques & Boutiques помогает путешественникам познакомиться с подобными потайными местами Милана. Она разрабатывает индивидуальные экскурсии, посвященные дизайну, стилю, кухне и культуре, - словом всему тому, что способно передать истинный дух города. Эти туры, по уверению их авторов, «создаются и проводятся неравнодушными
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86: In Focus: The Aquazzura High Heel
В фокусе: Туфли на высоком каблуке Aquazurra
Оливия Майл поговорила с дизайнером Эдгардо Осорио, который под маркой Aquazzura создал самые узнаваемые туфли нашего десятилетия
Культовые туфли всегда олицетворяют эпоху, с которой они связана: вспомните хотя бы платформы 1960-х, классические шпильки 1980-х и балетки 1990-х. А в 2010-х все самое роскошное и интересное в стиле воплощают туфли Sexy Ting от Aquazzura с прорезным узором.
Эдгардо Осорио, колумбиец по происхождению, основал марку Aquazzura во Флоренции в 2011 году. И первой же разработкой под собственным именем
местными жителями, и они приглашают вас разделить с ними город, которые они знают и любят». Одна из остановок в такой экскурсии – винтажный магазин Cavallie e Nastri в районе Brera (кстати, по соседству расположены арт-галереи и многочисленные дизайнерские бутики).
Еще один способ проникнуться духом Милана – конечно, еда, главная итальянская страсть. Больше самой еды для итальянцев значит, пожалуй, только культура трапезы. Леа настоятельно рекомендует начинать каждый день в Милане с чашки кофе в одной из старейших кондитерских Taveggia, причем пить его нужно al bar – то есть прямо у барной стойки. Продолжить день имеет смысл в Luini на Via Santa Redegonda. Здесь готовят восхитительные сладости с тех самых пор, как Джузеппина Луини приехала в Милан – то есть с 1949 года. «Сегодня те дети, которые когда-то прибегали за нашими panzerotti после школы, возвращаются к нам уже со своими детьми», - делятся представители семье Луини, которые по-прежнему управляют этим заведением.
Миланцы также ценят ресторан Ex Mauri на улице Via Federico Confalonieri, в меню которого фаршированные кальмары (calamari ripieni на итальянском), паста с цветками цуккини, соленая треска в кляре и другие венецианские блюда удачно дополняют обильную и насыщенную миланскую кухню. На ужин отправляйтесь в ресторан Ceresio 7 шеф-повара Элио Саррони, чтобы насладиться неповторимыми видами и ароматами.
Совершенно иным антуражем обладает старейший в Милане магазин игрушек Fortuna Giocattoli на улице Via Olmetto, основанный в 1914 году. Возможно, его очарование не столь очевидно, тем не менее, это место сохранило верных покупателей, а вместе с ними – и исторический статус заведения, воплощающего «реальный» Милан.
«Самый ценный опыт требует больших усилий. А если человек готов искать и открывать истинный Милан, если он сможет полюбить этот город, даже когда
это чувство кажется безответным, тогда барьеры, наконец, рухнут, и город раскроет свое сердце», - обещает Леа.antoniomarras.it, osannavisconti.it,cavallienastri.com, antiquesandboutiques.com,taveggia.it, luini.it, exmauri.com, ceresio7.com,fortura.it
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стали эти классические по силуэту туфли-ботильоны. Проработав до этого десять лет на Salvatore Ferragamo, Осорио понял, что в Тоскане многие века работали «лучшие в мире обувщики и кожевенники». Поэтому он решил открыть свой лейбл именно в Италии. Теперь туфли Осорио продаются по всему миру, в том числе – в бутике La Rinascente в Милане.
Источником вдохновения для дизайнера стали образы «лебёдушек» из 1960-х – так свои подруг называл писатель Трумана Капоте. Осорио хотел создать обувь для «современных лебедей»: «Я латиноамериканец и люблю танцевать, - делится он. – Побывав на самых разных свадьбах, я заметил, что девушки снимают туфли перед танцами. Мне захотелось разработать такую обувь, чтобы они могли танцевать в ней всю ночь напролет».
Узнаваемый силуэт, тонкий каблук высотой 11 см, резной узор, отчасти обнажающий ногу – все это создает особенное, чувственное ощущение: «Вырезы делают эти туфли такими сексуальными, поскольку обнажают кожу, но сама нога при этом остается сокрытой», - объясняет дизайнер.
После презентации модели в 2011 году ее популярности способствовала итальянский модный редактор Джованна Баттаглиа. Она часто оказывалась перед объективами
фотографов в туфлях Sexy Ting, причем разных оттенков, неизменно ярких. Своим чувственным и вместе с тем остро-модным обликом туфли идеально вписались в выразительный стиль Баттаглиа. И постепенно стали хитом в модной тусовке.
Насыщенная цветовая палитра – еще одна сильная сторона Sexy Ting, созвучная современному модному тренду. Мировые иконы стиля разных поколений отдают предпочтения хиту Aquazzura – от Кары Делевинь и Эммы Уотсон до Соланж Ноулз и Натальи Водяновой. «Мне нравится думать, что моя обувь подходит людям разных возрастов, - говорит Осорио. – Что ее можно носить круглый год и в любых ситуациях. Я встречал знаменитостей на званых вечерах, которые выбирали эти туфли к вечерним платьям, и девушек на пляже в джинсовых шортах и футболках. Они непринужденно подходят к любому наряду, что делает их очень актуальными».
Для основной части этой модели используется мягкая замша, которая естественным образом принимает форму ноги. Sexy Ting первой испытала эксклюзивную технику, которую Aquazzura вскоре запатентовала. Теперь делать из обуви «вторую кожу» умеет только эта компания: ее модели непередаваемо гибкие и удобные, словно «вы надели перчатку на высокий каблук».
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美文翻译
声势浩大的艺术运动正影响着米兰的最新时尚设
计,Harriet Quick 报道
66: Creative Edge
创意前沿
Особый комфорт обеспечивает специально разработанная подошва: мастера вложили много времени и сил в изучение существующих техник и поиск нового решения. «Эксперт, прорабатывающий технологию для моих новых вещей, освоил конструирование обуви в совершенстве. Теперь вес тела более равномерно распределяется между подушечками пальцев, взъемом и пяткой, тогда как в обычных туфлях максимальное давление оказывается на подушечки пальцев – и нога чувствует себя крайне неуютно», - отмечает Осорио. В результате Sexy Ting прославились как «обувь для модных недель» и «туфли на 24 часа» и оказались особенно востребованы среди модных редакторов в сезон презентаций международных коллекций.
«Ботильоны Sexy Ting не подвластна капризам модных сезонов и веяниям времени. Их эстетика впитала красоту и изысканность итальянского стиля, который просто невозможно исчерпать. Это та небольшая роскошная деталь, которая, как это бывает, делает весь образ великолепным», - подытоживает Осорио.aquazzura.com
142: When You Shop The World,
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Совершая покупки по всему миру,
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从上季开始,设计师们就为植物世界深深着迷,他
们所运用的野生花朵、花瓣状层叠与大量灵感来自
植物的设计,足以填满一座自然历史博物馆。在秋冬
季,他们将注意力转投更为神秘、更挑战思辨的当代
艺术领域,尤其是包豪斯运动与激浪派运动,以及
白驹过隙般的装置与表演艺术。
时尚与艺术之间的友谊,与时尚本身一样长久,
当下的联姻不仅带来高水准的合作系列,还有诸多
艺术盛事得到赞助,例如伦敦Frieze艺博会与巴黎
的Fiac艺博会,这些活动拉开了秋季的序幕,也为
时装裁剪、架构与演绎形式等各方面带来潜移默化
的影响。
在为最新一季的男装与女装系列做早期研究的
过程中,Miuccia Prada(也是Prada艺术基金会的
主理人)沉浸于1970年代激浪派运动的激进作品
里。激浪派里有来自艺术、电影与音乐各领域的国际
艺术家,他们注重自发性、幽默以及对正统展览形式
的游击干预,并强调任何材质,从报纸到碎瓷片,都
可以成为艺术的主题与载体。
为了向激浪派艺术家Joseph Beuys致敬——他
常用毛毡与皮革将物品、房间、甚至自己覆盖起
来,Prada的米兰发布会空间也被灰色厚工业毛毡
所覆盖,模特们楔形高跟鞋发出的声响被消减,就
像来参加地下艺术运动的秘密集会一般。系列中的
造型几乎是反时尚的:怪异的色彩组合(棕色、黄色
与黑色),颈链、领带与毛皮装饰将朴素的设计变得
令人瞠目结舌。
秋冬季最令人印象深刻的发布会,都可被称
作艺术现场。譬如Agnona的发布会请来了Dree
Hemingway——Ernest Hemingway智慧与美丽
并存的重孙女做模特。发布会在艺术装饰风格的场
景中举行,皮革、羊皮与羽毛打造的空间内,穿插着
毛茸花朵与羽毛装饰的踢脚板。Agnona的创意总
监Stefano Pilati为这个意大利巨擘Ermenegildo
Zegna掌控的品牌,带来了不可言喻的性感与触觉。
身着波浪贴花图案茧型大衣、穿戴皮质晚装手套与
宽腿裤的Hemingway,化身极度优雅的艺术使者。
需要注意的是,代表永恒变化的波浪形,也是激浪
派最喜欢使用的暗喻。
对于织物与结构的兴趣与重视,让许多设计师
将目光投向包豪斯艺术学校,这所由建筑师Walter
Gropius在1919年创办的多学科艺术与手工艺研
究机构。包豪斯引人注目的无装饰建筑、家具与图
案设计,激发了时装设计师们的想象力。Marni品
牌的Consuelo Castiglioni,与Pilati在本季都使
用了大胆的图案配色,创新的面料与复杂的剪裁工
艺。Bottega Veneta品牌的Tomas Maier原本就十
分精通并热衷于艺术与摄影,他为新一季创作出自
称为“谜团”的夺目系列。上窄下宽的郁金香形裙装
外套与装饰几何贴花镶片的直筒连衣裙,也是对手
工构造学的借鉴。系列中的晚礼服则由薄纱与布满
渐变色涟漪的雪纺面料缠绕而成,远远望去好似一
幅精细的水墨画。
随着新一季的系列纷纷运达店内,其艺术配方
将面临顾客的考验。如果你发现自己为灰毛毡茧形
大衣、双面羊绒饰边中裙,拼色块无袖夹克、丝质衬
衣裙或是构成主义风格楔形鞋怦然心动,那么艺术
与时装的联盟已成功将精神远播。
prada.com, agnona.com, bottegaveneta.com
贝思·德鲁斯(Beth Druce)发现,从隐秘的工作
室到传统的商铺和咖啡馆,这座城市有太多的东西
值得探索。
在卢卡·瓜达格尼诺(Luca Guadagnino)的电影
《我是爱》中,剧情围绕着一户居住在内基·坎皮里
奥别墅(Villa Necchi Campiglio)的米兰望族展
开。这栋历史悠久的别墅是一座隐藏在大教堂喧嚣
背后的宅邸。造访米兰时很容易被惊艳的大教堂和
50种冰淇淋口味分散注意力,但是剖开这些表面的
魅力,一个截然不同的城市显露出来,准备好让你深
入它的内在。
尽管许多欧洲的城市会张开热烈的臂膀欢迎
76: The Magic Of Milan
米兰魔力
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Aquazzura缔造了近十年来最知名的鞋子之一。在
这一期,奥利维亚·迈尔斯(Olivia Miles)将对话其
设计背后的男人——埃德加多·奥索里奥(Edgardo
Osorio)。
86: In Focus: The Aquazzura High Heel
聚焦:Aquazurra高跟鞋迷情
你,米兰可能会显得有些冷漠。正如《米兰:在隐秘
之城探索食物、时尚和家族》(Milan: discovering
food, fashion and family in a private city)的作者
罗宾·利亚(Robyn Lea)说的那样:“同样,非常注
重隐私或矜持的人很难被读懂并经常受到误解,米
兰也如此。”
澳大利亚出生的利亚在18岁时搬到米兰,
这座城市的“风尚创造者们”慢慢让她陷入
其中: 10 Corso Como的创始人卡拉·索赞尼
(Carla Sozzani),传奇设计师巴纳巴·佛纳塞蒂
(Barnaba Fornasetti),这些如雷贯耳的名字都是
米兰制造。“米兰就像一架大型的创意机器,你住在
那儿就想成为这个能量和创意推动力的一部分,要
不然你是不会喜欢这里的。”利亚说。
因此,利亚呼吁游客们让自己沉浸在一些创意
空间里,慢慢体会,比如安东尼奥·马拉斯(Antonio
Marras)的概念店。在这座旧工厂里,游客可以花
一天的时间细细挑选别具一格的作品。寻找金属雕
刻家Osanna和Madina Visconti di Modrone的工
作室显示出在这座城市里穿行的复杂性。这个温馨
的地方陈列着精密的配饰和前卫的家居用品,是这
个城市隐藏着最好的秘密之一。按照利亚的说法,这
个工作室“在大街上没有标识,只能通过古老的内庭
院进入,并需要获得守门人的同意”。
这就是旅行服务供应商Antiques & Boutiques
可以帮忙的地方。这家公司提供度身打造的游览项
目,专注于设计、格调、食物和文化等可以抓住米兰
精髓的主题。公司说,他们的旅行团“是由热情洋
溢、充满活力的本地人策划和引导的,他们邀请您一
起分享这座他们熟悉热爱的城市”。旅行中的一站
是布雷拉区的古着店Cavallie e Nastri。这个区域拥
有米兰众多的艺术画廊和室内设计精品店。
另一种渗透米兰外围的方式是通过意大利人最
爱的美食。在许多方面,重要的是美食文化而不是
食物本身。利亚建议来米兰参观的游人去米兰最古
老的糕点店之一Taveggia的酒吧享用一杯咖啡,开
始每一天。
接下来可以去试一试Luini。这家小吃店位于圣
雷德冈达大街(Via Santa Redegonda),自1949
年Guiseppina Luini来到这座城市,小店就开始烘
培带馅儿的美味糕点。“如今,以前放学后常来吃烤
馅饼(panzerotti)的孩子带着他们自己的孩子一
起来。”Luini家族这样解释说。本地人也喜欢聚集
在Federico Confalonieri大街的Ex Mauri。在这
里有丰富而丰盛的米兰菜肴,还有简便一点的威尼
斯菜品可供选择,如calamari ripieni(酿鱿鱼)、西
葫芦花配通心粉和盐皮鳕鱼。晚餐可以去大厨Elio
Sirron的餐厅Ceresio 7 ,那里有独特的景致和绝
妙的口味。
最后可以去一个全然不同的地方。Olmetto大街
的Fortura Giocattoli玩具店成立于1914年,堪称
全米兰最古老的玩具店。一个地方可能没有流露出
明显的吸引力却拥有忠诚的追随者,而这家店就完
美的印证了这一点。追随者们巩固了其作为一家代
表“真”米兰的百年老字号的地位。
“最有价值的经历需要花费最多的努力。当一
个人准备好去探索发掘米兰,并在感觉没有回报的
情况下也能够热爱这座城市的时候,障碍最终会
消失,这座城市最后也会敞开她的心扉。”利亚总
结道。
antoniomarras.it, osannavisconti.it,
cavallienastri.com, antiquesandboutiques.com,
taveggia.it, luini.it, exmauri.com, ceresio7.com,
fortura.it
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标志性的鞋履设计总是可以定义孕育它的时代:想
一想20世纪60年代的松糕鞋,经典的80年代细高
跟鞋和90年代的芭蕾舞鞋。而现在,在21世纪的10
年代,Aquazzura的Sexy Thing “性感小东西”镂
空短靴浓缩了时尚所有好而美的一面。
这款系带踝靴是由哥伦比亚出生的设计师埃
德加多·奥索里奥打造的,他于2011年在佛罗伦萨
创立了Aquazzura;而这是他为个人品牌第一次
设计鞋履。在为萨瓦尔多·菲拉格慕(Salvatore
Ferragamo)工作了十年之后,奥索里奥知道托斯卡
纳是如何成为“世界最佳鞋匠和最优皮革”之乡的。
他决定在意大利发布自己的个人品牌,而他的设计
在世界各地均有销售,包括米兰的文艺复兴百货商店
(La Rinascente)。
奥索里奥的灵感来源于作家杜鲁门·卡波特在
60年代美艳的女性朋友们。卡波特将她们称之为“
天鹅”,而奥索里奥力图为“今日的天鹅们”设计一款
鞋子。“我是拉美人,热爱跳舞,”他说。“我参加过许
多婚礼并记得女孩子们在开始跳舞之前脱掉鞋子的
场景。我想设计一款鞋子,让女孩可以通宵跳舞。”
镂空的款式和11公分的细高跟让人可以一眼认
出这款鞋子,而设计中感官和裸露的元素给予了鞋
子与众不同的感觉。“是镂空设计让这款鞋子如此
性感。镂空让一些皮肤暴露在外,但足部的大部分
仍然是被鞋子包裹在内的。”奥索里奥解释道。
自2011年Aquazzura Sexy Thing短靴被
推出以来,意大利时尚编辑吉奥瓦娜·巴塔格里亚
(Giovanna Battaglia)率先掀起了这款鞋子的
流行风暴。她经常被拍到穿着不同颜色的同款鞋,
而这个设计也很快成为了各大时尚合集的热门单
品。Sexy Thing将具有感官性和先锋性的设计与
闪亮的色彩相结合,这与巴塔格里亚活力四射的风
格堪称天作之合。除了设计以外,Sexy Thing的独
特之处在于其充满生气的配色选择,彰显了目前时
尚对于大胆、饱和色调的关注。现在,从卡拉·迪瓦
伊(Cara Delevingne)到艾玛·沃特森,从索朗·
诺尔斯(Solange Knowles)到纳塔利娅·沃佳诺娃
(Natalia Vodianova),不同年龄段的国际风尚偶
像们都穿着Sexy Thing短靴。
“我喜欢这样想,我的鞋子是可以跨越世代
的,”奥索里奥说。“你可以一年到头都穿着它,打扮
得或隆重或随意。我看过红毯上的名流身着晚礼服
穿着这双鞋,也看过沙滩上的女孩们用牛仔短裤和
T恤搭配这双鞋。这就是为什么它如此摩登的原因:
它很轻松,几乎可以与任何装扮搭配。”
鞋身是由无衬里的羊绒绒面依据足部的形状
精心制成的,仿佛与足部融为一体浑然天成。事实
上,Sexy Thing短靴是第一款使用Aquazzura生
产技术的设计。现在这个技术已经受到了专利保
护。根据公司的描述,这项“第二肌肤”的技术是
Aquazzura独一无二的,是它让鞋子拥有不同寻
常的柔软和舒适,让你感觉好像“在高跟鞋上戴手
套”一样。
舒适也来自于鞋底。能工巧匠们花费了许多时
间研究各种构造和贴合的技术,才有了现在的成
果。“制作鞋楦的工匠想出了一种构造鞋子的方法,
让身体的重量可以更加均匀的分布在足跟、足弓和
足背上,而不是相反,让身体的所有重量集中于足
跟,这样会很不舒服。”奥索里奥说。在品牌的国际
鞋履系列发布期间,Sexy Thing在时尚编辑之间流
行起来。这一独创设计使之获得了“时装周鞋履”
和“24小时鞋履”的称号。
“Sexy Thing是一款不分季节、不因时间而腿
色的鞋子。我的美学观反映出了一种意大利风格的
美丽与精巧,从来都不会设计过度,画蛇添足。是细
微和奢华的细节缔造出伟大的东西,就像生活中其
他的事情一样。”奥索里奥最后说道。
aquazzura.com
VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 19
RE-OPENING 3RD NOVEMBER
TEMPORARY STORE
VIA VERRI, 4 - MILANO
TEL: +39 02 76003697
MONDAY-SATURDAY 10AM - 7PM
SHOP AT TESTONI.COM
globalblue.com
162
ンそのものの歴史と同じくらい古く、今シーズンは、
名高いブランドのコラボレーションや秋シーズンを告
げるフリーズ・ロンドンやパリのフィアックといったア
ートフェアでのスポンサーシップの形で見られる他、
カットや造形、表現法にもさりげなく表れている。
ミウッチヤ・プラダ(プラダ芸術財団の理事長も
務める)は、メンズウェアとウーマンズウェアの最新コ
レクションのためのリサーチで、1970年代のフルクサ
ス運動家の急進的な作品を調べ上げた。フルクサス
はアート、映画、音楽の分野出身で、自発性とユーモ
アを重んじ、公式の展示会よりゲリラ的な作品展示
を好む多国籍のアーティスト集団で、新聞紙から欠
けた瀬戸物まで、あらゆる材料がアートの主題や素
材になり得ると強調した。
フルクサスのアーティスト、ヨーゼフ・ボイスはし
ばしば物体や部屋、自分自身をフェルトや革で覆っ
たが、プラダでは彼に敬意を表して、ミラノのショー
スペースを産業用の分厚いグレーのフェルトで覆っ
た。モデルがキャットウォークに現れた時、ウェッジ
日本語翻訳
66: Creative Edge
先端の創造力
影響力ある芸術運動がミラノの最新ファッションデ
ザインのインスピレーションとなっている。ハリエッ
ト・クイックがレポートする。
先シーズン、デザイナーたちは植物の世界に魅了さ
れ、野に咲く花や花びらのようなレヤーをはじめ、自
然史博物館を埋めるのに十分なほど植物関連のモ
チーフをデザインに取り入れた。
秋冬シーズンは謎めいて知的要求水準の高い
モダンアートの世界に注意を向けている。具体的に
は、バウハウスとフルクサスの芸術運動と、インスタ
レーションアートやパフォーマンスアートの束の間の
世界だ。
ファッションとアートの密接な関係はファッショ
142: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
畅购全球,尊享退税
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时,
环球蓝联(Global Blue)购物退税服务(Tax Free
Shopping)为您节约购物开销。
每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联(Global
Blue)获得购物退税,您怎能错过?您要做的只
是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联
(Global Blue)服务,然后遵循我们简单的退税
过程:
1. 消费购物
无论您在哪里消费,请索要环球蓝联退税表格
(Global Blue Tax Free Form)。
2. 申请退税
当您准备回家时,您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台
请他们在您的退税表格上盖章,然后再到环球蓝联
退税点领取您的退税款。
联系方式:
+421 232 111 111
最低消费€154.94并且节约高达购买价格15.5%的金
额。请注意:最终退款将包含增值税总额,但是要扣
除管理手续费。若选择即时现金退税,部分退税点
将以退税表格为单位收取一定数额的手续费。
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76: The Magic Of Milan
ミラノ・マジック
隠れたアトリエから老舗のショップやカフェまで、こ
の都市には発見が一杯。ベス・ドゥルースが探訪し
た。
ルカ・グァダニーノの映画『 I Am Love(邦題・ミラ
ノ、愛に生きる)』では、賑やかなドゥオーモ広場の
裏手にひっそりと佇むヴィラ・ネッキ・カンピリオに住
むミラノの名門一族を中心にストーリーが展開する。
ミラノといえば、荘厳な大聖堂やフレーバーが50種
類もあるジェラートに気を取られがちだが、そうした
明らかな名所、名物の裏に隠れたものに目を凝らす
と、違った街が現れて訪問者をたちまち虜にする。
ヨーロッパの多くの都市が大手を広げて観光客
を歓迎する中で、ミラノはどこかしらよそよそしく見
えることがある。ただ、それは『ミラノ:内気な街の
食、ファッション、家族(Milan: discovering food,
fashion and family in a private city)』の著者ロビ
ン・リーが言うように、「とても内気で無口な人の心
情が読みづらくて誤解されがちなことがあるけれど、
ミラノという都市も同じ」だ。
オーストラリア生まれで18歳でミラノに越して来
たリーは、10コルソコモの創設者カーラ・ソッザーニ
や伝説的デザイナーのバルナバ・フォルナセッティと
いったこの街の「テイストメーカー」に次第に惹きつ
けられていった。「ミラノは巨大な創造集団のような
もので、ここに住めばそのエネルギーと創造力の一
端になりたいと思うもの。そうでなければ、この街を
楽しむことはできない」と、リーはいう。
そこで、リーは訪問者にクリエイティブな空間に
どっぷり浸かることを薦めている。アントニオ・マッラ
スのコンセプトストアがその一例で、古い工場を改装
したこの店舗では、幅広い品揃えをあれこれ見て回
るだけで一日過ごせる。この街の探訪が勝手を知ら
ない人にとっていかに難しいかは、オサンナ・ヴィス
コンティ・ディ・モドローネとマディーナ・ヴィスコンテ
ィ・ディ・モドローネの彫金家母娘のスタジオを探し
当てる苦労でわかる。手の込んだアクセサリーやア
ヴァンギャルドなホームウェアが並ぶこの居心地のい
い空間は、知る人ぞ知るミラノの穴場だ。リーによれ
ば、このアトリエは「看板も出ておらず、ドアマンの許
可を得なければ入れず、昔ながらの中庭を通り抜け
た先にある」という。
ここぞ、ツアー業者「アンティーク&ブティック」
の出番だ。同社は、ミラノ魂の真髄を捉えたデザイ
ン、スタイル、食、文化に焦点を当てたテーラーメイド
ツアーを提供している。同社のツアーは、「ミラノっ
子が知り、愛する街の魅力を共有してもらいたいとい
ヒールの靴音がフェルトで消されて、まるでアングラ
芸術運動の秘密会合から出てきたかのような雰囲
気だった。ほとんどアンチ・ファッション的なスタイ
ルが顕著に見られ、妙な配色(茶、黄、黒)やネック
レス、ネクタイ、毛皮のトリムが、平凡な服を観客が
思わず会話を忘れて見入る服へと見事に変貌させて
いた。
秋冬シーズンで最も記憶に残るファッションショ
ーは、芸術的な「ハプニング」と評してもいいものだ
った。その好例が、アーネスト・ヘミングウェイの美し
きひ孫娘で才女のドリー・ヘミングウェイをモデルに
起用したアニオナだ。アール・デコ風の舞台はレザー
と羊皮、羽根で覆われ、毛皮製の花や羽根の幅木を
配した設えで、アニオナのクリエイティブ・ダイレクタ
ー、ステファノ・ピラーティが、イタリアの有力ファッ
ション企業エルメネジルド・ゼニアが所有するこの高
級ブランドの官能性と可触性を表出した。波型のアッ
プリケが施されたコクーンコート、レザーの夜会用手
袋、ワイドカットパンツといったいで立ちのヘミングウ
ェイは、とびきりエレガントなアートパトロンのようだ
った。常に進行中の変化を意味する波が、フルクサ
ス運動家が好んで使う隠喩だったことは言うまでも
ない。
生地と造形に関心が集まり、それらが重視され
る中、1919年に建築家ヴァルター・グロピウスが創
設した多分野連携の工芸学校バウハウスに、多くの
デザイナーがインスピレーションを求めた。装飾を
一切排除した印象的なバウハウスの建築、家具、グ
ラフィックデザインが、ファッションデザイナーたち
の想像力を捉えたのだ。マルニのコンスエロ・カステ
ィリオーニやアニオナのピラーティは今シーズン、大
胆で絵画的な配色と革新的な組み立て、複雑なカッ
ト技法を用いている。ボッテガ・ヴェネタでは、アー
トと写真を愛し造詣も深いトーマス・マイヤーが、自ら
「パズル」と呼ぶ見逃せないコレクションを創り出し
た。フィット・アンド・フレアのコートドレスやシフトド
レスには幾何学模様のパネルがアップリケされてい
たが、それらは造形技法のお手本でもあった。イブ
ニングウェアは、グラデーションのさざ波状のチュー
ルやシフォンをふんだんに使って複雑に組み立てら
れ、遠くから見るとまるで繊細な墨絵のようだった。
こうしたアートフルなデザインは、新シーズンの
コレクションが店頭にお目見えした時に評価が下
る。グレイのフェルト製コクーンコート、カシミアのパ
ネルを配したダブルフェースのミディスカート、カラー
ブロックで構成された袖なしジャケット、シルクのシ
ャツドレス、構成主義的なウェッジソールの靴等々。
欲しいなと思ったら、アートとファッションの融合が
成功した証拠だ。
prada.com、agnona.com、bottegaveneta.com
globalblue.com
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86: In Focus: The Aquazzura High Heel
注目のブランド:アクアズーラのハイヒール
2010年代の靴の中で、一目でそれとわかるブランド
の一つがアクアズーラだ。オリヴィア・マイルズが、そ
のデザインの創作者エドガルド・オッソリオにインタ
ビューした。
アイコニックな靴デザインは決まって、それが着想
された時代を特徴づける。60年代のプラットフォー
ム、80年代の典型的なスティレットヒール、90年代の
バレエパンプスがそうだ。そして今、2010年代のファ
ッションの素晴らしさを体現しているのが、アクアズ
ーラのカットアウトブーティー、「セクシーシング」だ。
この足元を包むようなくるぶし丈のブーツのバラ
エティを創り出したのは、コロンビア生まれのデザイ
ナーで2011年にフィレンツェでアクアズーラを創設し
たエドガルド・オッソリオ。セクシーシングは彼が自己
レーベルのために初めてデザインした靴だ。サルヴァ
トーレ・フェラガモで10年働いたオッソリオは、トス
カーナが「世界一優れた靴職人と最良質の革」を誇
る地であることを目の当たりにし、自分のレーベルを
立ち上げるならイタリアだと心に決めた。彼のデザイ
ンはミラノの百貨店ラ・リナシェンテをはじめ、世界
う情熱的で活力に満ちた地元住民が主導し、管理し
ている。」ツアーで訪問する場所の一つは、ヴィンテ
ージショップのカヴァッリ・エ・ナストリだ。この店の
あるブレラ地区はアートギャラリーが多く、インテリ
アデザインブティックも点在している。
ミラノの外見のよそよそしさを打ち破るもう一つ
の方法は、イタリア人が愛してやまない食を通じてだ
が、いろいろな意味で重要なのは食べ物そのものよ
り食文化だ。リーは訪問者に毎日をミラノ有数の老
舗、al bar(喫茶店)タヴェッジアでコーヒーを飲む
ことから始めてはどうかとアドバイスしている。
そして昼食はルイーニでどうぞ。サンタ・レデゴ
ンダ通りにあるこの店は、店主ジュゼッピーナ・ルイ
ーニがこの街に来た1949年以来、おかずパンを焼き
続けている。かつて放課後にパンツェロッティを食
べに来ていた子供たちが、今は自分たちの子供を連
れて来てくれる」とルイーニはいう。もう一つ、地元民
に人気なのがフェデリコ・コンファロニエーリ通りの
エックス・マウリ。このレストランでは、カラマーリ・リ
ピエニ(イカの詰め物)、ズッキーニの花のスパゲッ
ティ、カリッとした衣付き塩鱈といったベネチア料理
が、リッチで食べ応えのあるミラノ料理に代わる軽め
の食事になる。ディナーはエリオ・シローニがシェフ
を務めるセレシオ7が眺めも味も抜群だ。
最後にガラリと趣向を変えて、オルメット通りの
フォルトゥラ・ジョカトーリは、1914年創業とミラノで
最も古い玩具店だ。この店こそ、一見どうということ
はないのに地元で根強い人気があり、「本物の」ミラ
ノを代表する100年物のお宝の典型だ。
「とびきり貴重な体験をするには、それ相当の
努力が必要だ。そして、人がミラノを発見し、そのベ
ールの下にある本当の姿に触れようとする時、たとえ
その想いが一方的なものであっても、バリアはいつ
か取り除かれ、街が心を許すようになる」と、リーは
締めくくっている。
antoniomarras.it, osannavisconti.it,
cavallienastri.com, antiquesandboutiques.com,
taveggia.it, luini.it, exmauri.com, ceresio7.com,
fortura.it
®
®
169
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142: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
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グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利用
いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街にあ
る27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得になり
ます。
年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー
の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。
手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探しま
す。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ブル
ー?」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを踏む
だけです。
1. お買い物
お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免税
書類(タックスフリー・フォーム)を受け取ってくださ
い。
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ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にスタ
ンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還
付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。
お問い合わせ:
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€154.94以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高
15.5%の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻
し額は、付加価値税(VAT)合計から事務手数料を
差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くださ
い。なお、現金での即日還付が必要な場合は、還付
の場所によって、各タックスフリーフォームにつき固
定の追加手数料をとられる場合があります。
まず、踵にかけて体重を万遍なく分散する靴の造り
を、うちの靴型職人が創り出したんです」と、オッソ
リオはいう。この特徴のおかげで、セクシーシングは
国際的なコレクション披露の場でファッションエディ
ターたちが好んで履く靴となり、「ファッションウィー
ク用の靴」、「24時間履ける靴」という評判を得た。
「セクシーシングはシーズンも時代も問わず履
ける靴です。僕の美感に反映されているのは、ある
種のイタリアンスタイルに見られるような、デザイン
を凝り過ぎず大げさになることが決してない美しさと
洗練です。何かを素敵にするのは、ちょっとした贅沢
なディテールなんです。生活のすべてについて言える
ことですけどね」と、オッソリオは締めくくった。
aquazzura.com
中で手に入れることができる。
1960年代に作家トルーマン・カポーティが白鳥
たちと呼んだグラマラスな女友達にインスピレーショ
ンを得たオッソリオは、「現代の白鳥たち」のための
靴を創りたいと考えた。「僕はラテン男で、ダンスが
大好き」という彼だが、「数多くの結婚パーティに行
きましたが、女性がダンスを始める前に靴を脱いで
いるのを見た記憶があって、女性が一晩中履いて踊
れるような靴を創りたいと思ったのです。」
カットアウトスタイルと11cmの細いヒールで一目
でそれとわかるその靴は、肌を露出する官能的なデ
ザインが独特だ。「カットアウトで肌が見えるようにな
っているのがセクシーですが、それでも足はしっかり
カバーしているんですよ」とオッソリオは説明する。
2011年の発売以来、この靴の人気上昇の最先
鋒となってきたのがイタリアのファッションエディタ
ー、ジョヴァンナ・バッタグリア。様々な色のセクシー
シングを履いた彼女の姿がしばしば写真に撮られた
ことで、このデザインはファッション好きの間でたち
まちヒット商品となった。バッタグリアの華麗なスタ
イルは、官能性と先端性を兼ね備えたデザインで明
るい色が冴えるセクシーシングにぴったりマッチして
いる。デザイン以外にセクシーシングの特徴はという
と、大胆な飽和色が注目される現在のファッション
トレンドを考慮して鮮やかな配色を揃えている点だ。
今や、セクシーシング・ブーティーはカーラ・デルヴィ
ーニュ、エマ・ワトソン、ソランジュ・ノウルズ、ナタリ
ア・ヴォディアノヴァなど、年齢層を問わず世界のスタ
イルアイコンの足元を飾っている。
「僕の靴は世代を超えたものと思いたい」とい
うオッソリオ。「一年中履けて、ドレスアップもドレス
ダウンもできます。イブニングドレスに合わせて授賞
式の赤カーペットを闊歩するセレブたちも見ました
し、ビーチでデニムのショートパンツとシャツに合わ
せている女の子たちも見ました。それがモダンさの
秘密でしょう。気楽に履けて、ほぼどんな服装にでも
合う靴です。」
この靴の本体は裏地無しのカシミアスエード製
で、自然に足の形に馴染む。実は、セクシーシング・
ブーティーは、アクアズーラ独特で現在は特許登録
されている製造技術を使ったデザインの第一号だ。
同社によれば、この「セカンドスキン」技術はアクアズ
ーラ独自の製造法で、靴が信じられないほど柔らか
く履き心地の良いものになる。まるで、「ハイヒール上
の手袋のようなフィット感」があるのだ。
履き心地の良さは靴底にも関係している。職人
たちが、造りの良さとフィット感を実現するために数
々の技術を時間をかけて研究した成果だ。「履く人
の全体重が足指の付け根にかかると、履き心地が悪
くなります。そうではなくて、足指の付け根から土踏
Souvenir
170 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142
EASY RIDER
Italian fashion house Versace is known for
its extravagant approach to modern luxury
and this quilted leather motorcycle helmet is
a great example of just that. Inspired by the
sense of youth and liberation associated with
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latest menswear collection is a celebration of
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them the perfect inspiration for Versace, a
brand that has always striven to break with
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designs. The helmet, in quilted black leather
with gold detailing, is, of course, functional,
providing the head protection the motorcyclist
needs, but it is also a beautiful item. hl
Versace helmet, from €790, Versace,
Via Montenapoleone 11, 20121 Milan,
+39 02 7600 8528,
versace.com
* for map go to page 126