HISTORY OF CLIMBING AT METEORA

Climbing on the Meteoritic rocks is a very old issue for our area.In ancient times the inhabitants of ancient Aeginio found shelter in these rough rocks(E.g., Agia) in order to be protected by the attacks of various bandits and pirates of those times (proceedings of 1rst History Congress of Kalampaka).

Great Saint (Agia)

Later and especially in the 9th century A.D., many caves were used as hermitages by the monks. Many of these caves could only be reached by means of climbing.

Hermitage at Meteora

Athanasios Meteoritis , founder of the Transfiguration monastery together with two monks and the help of a local man (probably shepherd) skilled in climbing, who was also paid for his job, climbed up on a rock called “ The Flat rock” (Platis Lithos) where the monastery is situated today ( Nun Theotechni – METEORA THE ROCK FOREST

Among other things we discovered, we found information about people who climbed these steep rocks, on routes which, even today, are considered difficult.

The one who climbed ALYSSOS rock for the first time did a difficult “chimney” (V difficulty grade UIAA) at the North side of the rock, which even today is considered one of the hardest climbing rocks.

Alyssos

In the 14th century A.D., the Serb czar Stefanos Dussan ordered his soldiers to put a metal cross 1,80 X 0,80 cm at the top of the rock “Holly Ghost” ( Agio Pnevma).

Holly Ghost’s crossThe ones who climbed to the top, did a difficult ascent (at least V+), without any technical equipment. There is a possibility that the shape of the rock might have been different, but even this doesn’t eliminate the danger of climbing. The cross was taken down by a helicopter and is currently kept in Salaam monastery.

Other climbing examples are DOUPIANI, AG. TAXIARIES, tower of METAMORPHOSIS (wood- chokes were found in crack of the rocks) etc.

Transfiguration Tower (Metamorfosis)

The above information shows us that since ancient times local people, shepherds and hunters have manage to climb very difficult rocks at Meteor, motivated by their instincts or by financial reasons.

The story of St. George of the scarf’s “Mandilas”:A Turk wends to a small forest, under St. George hermitage to cut wood.

While cutting it, a trunk fell over him and injured him seriously. When his wife found him injured, she promised to offer her veil to the Saint as a gift, so that her husband would recover. So it was done and the woman offered her veil to Saint George.

Every year since then, young men climb the steep route that leads to the ruined hermitage, changing the old scarves, offered by local people, with new ones.

St. George of the scarf’s (Mandilas)

Similarly, at the “Holly Ghost” day, local young men change the scarf from the half-top of the rock doing a IV difficulty trade climbing.

Holly Ghost

MODERN TIMES: Until 1965, Kastraki commune was rending some rock tops to local people,

who used to take their herbs up to graze in the last pastures $that are there ( Sourloti, Modi, Ambaria etc.).

Sourloti

Modi

During the German invasion, soldiers climbed on AGIA to place the German flag. They probably climbed on “Kastraki tower” as well.

In April 1970, Berlin climbers Bodo Zoephel and Uwe Weinreich climbed up the tower of NE “ Koumaria”, “Hawk Tower” and “Shoulder of Meteora”. They have never come back to Meteora again.

In the summer of 1970, the already great climber- mountaineer Dietrich Hasse together with his friend professional photographer- mountaineer Heinz Lottar Stutte are fairly considered fathers of climbing at Meteora.

DIETRICH HASSE

HEINZ LOTTAR STUTE

As a climax to their climbing activity can be considered the ascent to the east side of Alyssos and the opening of “Community Route” (VIA2) from 27 to 30 March 1978 by D.Hasse, S.Eichinger, H.Maegdefrau, and H.L.Stute.

Alyssos (Community route) Alyssos was considered a rock myth for Kalampaka because of its shape and

despite there was an old monastery on the top, its conquest was considered great feat.In 1977, Hasse & Stutte issued the first climbing guide and the climbers started to appear.

Meanwhile, local young men came in touch with them and started the first climbing routes. These were An. Tselios, Skarlatos Bros., and S. Athanasiou etc., who together with the German speaking Aris Mitronatsios reached a very high climbing level.In 1979, an alpine club department called Kastraki Association of Greek mountaineers was wt up, in co-operation with S.E.O. of Thessalonica.

During the ‘80s more and more Greeks and foreigners came to Meteora.The tourist current of climbing at Meteora increased tremendously.

In 1985 the Meteora Climbing fun club was set up in Germany and Austria by Hasse & Stutte. It provided safety bolts to anyone who wanted to open climbing routes at Meteora, for a small contribution to the club.

In 1986 the 2nd Climbing guide was issued (the familiar blue booklet), a complete book, a marvelous work done by Hasse & Stutte. In the same year, the 1rst Pan- European Climbing Meeting was organized at Meteora, with the participation of top contemporary climbers.

In 1989 Alpine Club of Kalampaka was set up. The club includes all local climbers.Throughout climbing schools, many young people learnt climbing and joined the club. People who took part in these schools repeated difficult routes, opened new and harder ones, climbed abroad in difficult fields, won in pan-Hellenic competitions and took part in international competitions. (N GAZOS, THEODOROU BROS, G. VAIOU, CH. BATALAOGIANNIS, V. BATSIOS etc.).

In 1993 the Committee of Mountaineering safety of the International Mountaineering Association (UIAA) held a conference there. Every September since 1993 the pan-Hellenic Climbing meeting is organized at Meteora, after most Greek Alpine clubs request.

In 1999, the 2nd European Climbing Meeting was organized there with great success. In the same year the Youth committee of UIAA held a conference at Meteora. In 1999 & 2000 the pan-Hellenic Bouldering games were organized in

Kalampaka. In almost all competitions & meetings A.C.K. undertakes all rescues, annihilation of the high level of climbing.

In 2000, the 3rd climbing guide was issued by Hasse & Stutte, who handed over the climbing field of Meteora to the youngest climbers of A.C.K.

A.C.K. has a Rescue team, which has been involved in many incidents helping people in need. It also a team which maintains all old and wears safety bolts so the field is always one of the safest fields worldwide.

The 100 towers and about 700 climbing routes create a feeling of fulfillment to the visitor. Climbing is the only sport that supports the place financially.

Surveys show that 10000 people who stay overnight are climbers. If we keep in mind that these people come with their families or friends then

we presume the number is bigger. We have not taken in consideration the hikers who come to Meteora.

Climbers- visitors give life to the area and to small shops since they are not orientated by tourist agencies. So, the financial benefit exceeds the 1.500.000 € a year and makes climbing a financial power for the area. The number of the climbers is increasing year by year.

All climbing schools have at least one weekend included in their timetable at this peculiar field.

There are also many references of mountaineering magazines ( and not only) for the good and detailed work that is being done in the area and the influence all over the world is such that it sets as example to others.NOTE: Climbers main commitment for Meteora: We climb on all rocks apart from the ones, where there are inhabited monasteries.A commitment that is kept seriously by everyone.

BIBLIOGRAPHY:• Nun Theotechni – “ Meteora the rock forest”• Stutte H.L. & Hasse D., “ Meteora – Guide International, Climbing and

Hiking II”• Stutte H.L. & Hasse D., “ Meteora – Guide International, Climbing and

Hiking III”• Stutte H.L. & Hasse D., “ Meteora – A landscape to be experienced”• Municipality of Kalampaka, Proceedings of the 1rst History Conference of

Kalampaka

Archive: LIOLIOS KOSTANDINOS