silent nights at the battery-powered base of the alps t14 • globe travel g the globe and mail •...

1
SAVE on last minute guided adventures 4168 FINCH AVE EAST, UNIT G52, TOR., ONT. M1S 5H6 DISCOUNT HOLIDAY CENTER LTD 416-754-3114 or 1-888-296-7901 EGYPT www.discountholidaycenter.com TREASURE OF THE NILE THURSDAY DEP. (Escorted Tour) (Air Included) 4 nights Mena House Pyramids, 7 Nights Nile Cruise 5*, 2 Nights Luxor, 2 Full days of Sightseeing in Cairo Pay by March 30 th & get 50% discount for the 2 nd passenger. ONT. REG. TICO 50012431 $2999 Tax $589 Escape the cold with these great all-inclusive packages! All advertised prices include taxes & fees. Flights as low as $ 255 Cruise Vacations Puerto Rico Flights + 5 Nights 4-Star $ 989 Gran Melia Golf Resort INCLUDES 4-star sophisticated accom nestled on a lush peninsula in Coco Beach. BONUS welcome gift and $50 ^ resort credit included. Departs Apr 10/ggv/dl. St Kitts Flights + 6 Nights 4.5-Star $ 1769 St. Kitts Marriott Resort INCLUDES 4.5-star accom at a beachfront resort featuring an on-site championship golf course. Departs May 4/ggv/aa. ADD horseback riding to the rainforest for $145. Seychelles Honeymoon Special Flights + 7 Nights 5-Star $ 2839 Kempinski Seychelles INCLUDES 5-star luxury accom nestled in the secluded Baie Lazare. BONUS daily breakfast, bottle of wine, fruit basket and cake upon arrival included. Departs Mar 19/ggv/et. Conditions apply. Ex: Toronto. All advertised prices include taxes & fees. Air only prices are per person for return travel unless otherwise stated. Package, cruise, tour, rail & hotel prices are per person, based on double occupancy for total length of stay unless otherwise stated. All-inclusive vacations include air. pp=per person. Prices are for select departure dates and are accurate and subject to availability at advertising deadline, errors and omissions excepted, and subject to change. Taxes & fees include transportation related fees, GST/HST and fuel supplements and are approximate and subject to change. ◊Price is per person for quad occupancy (2 adults & 2 kids ages 2-17) for total length of stay unless otherwise stated. ‡Limit one (1) onboard credit per stateroom for all cabin categories on exact itinerary advertised, offer can be withdrawn or changed at anytime. ^Conditions apply. One (1) resort credit per person. ΩConditions apply. For full terms and conditions please speak with a Flight Centre Travel Consultant or visit flightcentre.ca/cruise-sale. ac=air canada, ggv=gogo, ncl=norwegian cruise line, pcl=princess cruises, ua=united airlines, aa=american airlines, dl=delta, et=ethiopian airlines †We will beat any written quoted airfare by $1 and give you a $20 voucher for future travel. “Fly Free” offer applies only where all “Lowest Airfare Guarantee” criteria are met but Flight Centre does not beat quoted price. Additional important conditions apply. For full terms and conditions visit flightcentre.ca/lowestairfareguarantee-flyfree. Head office address: 1 Dundas St W Suite 200, Toronto, ON. Call for retail locations. ONT. REG #4671384 1 866 828 2256 24/7 Over 1000 Airfare Experts across Canada. flightcentre.ca More great deals online! New York $ 255 Travel Apr 21 – Apr 28/ac Orlando $ 349 Travel May 12 – May 20/ac Cancun $ 425 Travel May 13 – May 20/ua Vancouver $ 569 Travel May 19 – May 26/ac London $ 799 Travel May 4 – May 12/ac Barcelona & Mediterranean Flights + 2 Nights + 7-Night Cruise $ 2299 Catalonia Sagrada Familia, Norwegian Epic INCLUDES flights, 2 nights Barcelona accom and 7-night cruise sailing roundtrip Barcelona visiting Naples, Civitavecchia, Livorno, Cannes and Palma de Majorca. BONUS $50 onboard credit included. Departs Jun 18/ncl/ggv/dl. Hawaii Flights + 2 Nights + 9-Night Cruise $ 2299 Aqua Aloha Surf Hotel, Pacific Princess INCLUDES flights, 2 nights Honolulu accom and 9-night cruise sailing Vancouver to Honolulu visiting Hilo, Maui and Kauai. BONUS $75 onboard credit and complimentary Ω bottle of wine, plus up to $1000 Ω savings, free Ω specialty dining and additional $175 Ω onboard credit per stateroom included. Departs Sep 7/pcl/ggv/ac. Beach Getaways Aruba Flights + 6 Nights $ 1389 The Mill Resort and Suites INCLUDES cozy accom featuring a palm-shaded pool deck and freeform swimming pools. BONUS complimentary beach shuttle service included. Departs Mar 19/ggv/ua. ADD Atlantis submarine expedition tour for $145. Fairmont Banff Springs BOOK BY FEB 28 FOR 3 rd NIGHT FREE $1,199 * Travel between: Mar 1–Mar 23, 2015 5 nights • 4 days of skiing • transfers Mount Royal Hotel BOOK BY FEB 28 FOR 5 th NIGHT FREE $609 * Travel between: Mar 10–Mar 31, 2015 5 nights • 4 days of skiing • transfers Inns of Banff BOOK BY FEB 28 FOR 4 th NIGHT FREE $599 * Travel between: Feb 21–Apr 2, 2015 5 nights • 4 days of skiing • transfers Book your BANFF SKI VACATION TODAY! Contact Us for a Custom Quote and Best Available Price and Airfare! *CDN$ pp, dbl occ. Subject to availability. Offers reflected in pricing. Not included: airfare and local taxes. ON-4499356/4499372 | BC-34799 | 111 Peter Street, Suite 200, Toronto, ON. M5V 2H1 Merit Travel | 1.866.341.1777 | MeritTravel.com/Banff Banff Lake Louise Tourism / Paul Zizka Photography ALL INCLUSIVE COST: $3892.00 CAD, PPD OUTSIDE BALCONY BU INCLUDES: Return air, Toronto/New York/London/Toronto, Cruise, Port Taxes and Transfers. Bridge Director on Board Extend you vacation in London at our Deluxe Mayfair Hotel. Call for Details Fares are per person, air included, based on double occupancy and apply to first two passengers in a State Room. Fares are capacity controlled based on space availability. Government fees and taxes of up to $22.74 p.p. are included. Fares are quoted in Canadian dollars. See applicable Cunard brochure for terms and definitions that will apply to your booking. Other restrictions may apply. Ships Registry Bermuda. Tico: 50019518 Call Audrey Johnston CTC, IATM 905.815.9804 • 1.855.837.7888 237 Church St., Oakville, ON L6J 1N4 BOOK WITH CONFIDENCE, MEMBER OF QUEEN MARY 2 ® NEW YORK TO SOUTHAMPTON September 4-11th, 2015 (other dates available) TO SUBSCRIBE CALL 1-800-387-5400 T14 G THE GLOBE AND MAIL SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 21, 2015 GLOBE TRAVEL H alf the fun of touring Swit- zerland is simply getting around on its altitude-defying transport systems. Alpine trains cross tongue-bitingly high via- ducts and burrow through spiral tunnels blasted into mountain- sides. Cog railways claw their way up vertiginous slopes. Gondolas, cable cars and urban funiculars transcend gravity. And in Zer- matt, at the foot of the Matter- horn, battery-powered shuttles whisk guests to hotels with bare- ly a whisper. In 1966, citizens here voted to ban internal combustion cars and trucks, except for emergency vehicles. It was a wise display of vision. Locals call Zermatt a vil- lage, but it has since burgeoned into a major ski resort town accommodating 35,000 at peak periods. Narrow streets are wedged between precipitous slopes. With conventional cars, “traffic would be deadly,” explains Amadé Perrig, who co- ordinated the hotels, cable cars and other infrastructure for 25 years. Instead, all visitors arrive by train. Those in cars must park five kilometres down the valley and roll their luggage onto a spe- cial shuttle train. I arrived on a mild May after- noon. The mountain air was fresh and clean. Fit-looking folks sporting North Face parkas and Patagonia vests strolled the main street, eating ice cream cones and window-shopping while passing by countless chalet roofs and gingerbread balconies. The old town is simply enchanting, with robust houses built of squared-off, time-blackened logs that sag slightly under the weight of centuries. The next day, I took an electric taxi to a spacious garage/work- shop to meet Bruno Imboden, who has designed, built and maintained electric vehicles for 27 years. A handful of mechanics in coveralls tinkered with older models; others worked on comp- leting new ones. Each vehicle was a one-off of welded aluminum, designed to a customer’s special needs and powered by lead-acid batteries. One charge lasts most drivers a full day; they plug in the vehicle and power it up over- night. Taxis, which stop-and-go all day without time for a break, need their batteries switched out after about five hours. Each auto- mobile costs more than $100,000 (U.S.) and lasts 30 to 40 years. Imboden showed off a new hotel shuttle, a light pickup, a heavy truck for building materi- als and a 70-passenger bus he had built. Its 96-volt battery bank, weighing 1,800 kilograms, had been removed by a tiny elec- tric fork lift. “What we build is handmade quality,” he said proudly. It has to be. “Winters here are hard on vehicles, with snow and slush, ruts and pot- holes.” His family had driven horse- drawn carriages for years. As the village grew, his father bought an electric car, built near Zurich, and put the first electric taxi on the roads of Zermatt in 1977. But he faced opposition. After a refer- endum that year, electric vehicles were allowed only at night, to re- lieve the burden on over-worked horses. Soon, more carriage driv- ers wanted electric cars. A second vote just a year later approved their all-day operation. Then, “the electric vehicle thing just exploded,” Imboden said. To limit congestion, private in- dividuals cannot own electric cars. About 500 taxis, shuttles and service vehicles are licensed, all for business use; new permits must be justified. Today, Imbo- den’s brother has the last horse taxi, while two hotels also run horse-drawn carriages. That afternoon, I boarded a cog railway that has been electrified since 1898. Teeth on its wheels meshed with teeth on the track, carrying passengers smoothly skyward, up the 3,135-metre-high Gornergrat. I hoped for good views of the Matterhorn, but it was socked in. I waited over cof- fee at the mountaintop hotel for the clouds to clear. Instead, it began to snow. Later, back down in Zermatt, I finally got brief glimpses of the iconic peak, which still attracts some 2,000 climbers a year. On my final day, I strolled across the narrow Vispa river, which bisects Zermatt. While standing on a narrow bridge, not paying attention, I was nearly run down by an electric shuttle – it came up behind me so silently. In the old town, a pickup was parked outside a house, a charg- ing panel and cord conveniently mounted on the wall. I thought a lot about those electric cars. How quiet. How reli- able. How clean and green. It was almost enough to make me buy one. What a souvenir that would be. Even better than a Swiss Army knife. ................................................................ Special to The Globe and Mail SWITZERLAND Silent nights at the battery-powered base of the Alps In Zermatt, a resort village at the foot of the Matterhorn, a ban on combustion engines sets a serene stage for skiers ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... TOM KOPPEL ZERMATT, SWITZERLAND ................................................................ Electrified in 1898, a cog-wheel railway climbs 3,135 metres to the Gornergrat. CHRISTOF SONDEREGGER/SWITZERLAND TOURISM

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SAVE on last minute guided adventures

4168 FINCH AVE EAST, UNIT G52, TOR., ONT. M1S 5H6

DISCOUNT HOLIDAY CENTER LTD416-754-3114 or 1-888-296-7901

EGYPTwww.discountholidaycenter.com

TREASURE OF THE NILETHURSDAY DEP. (Escorted Tour) (Air Included)

4 nights Mena House Pyramids, 7 Nights Nile Cruise 5*, 2 Nights Luxor, 2 Full days of Sightseeing in CairoPay by March 30th & get 50% discount for the 2nd passenger.

ONT. REG. TICO 50012431

$2999Tax $589

Escape the cold with thesegreat all-inclusive packages!

All advertised prices include taxes & fees.

Flights as low as $255

CruiseVacations

Puerto Rico Flights + 5 Nights 4-Star $989Gran Melia Golf Resort

INCLUDES 4-star sophisticated accom nestled on alush peninsula in Coco Beach. BONUS welcome giftand $50^ resort credit included. Departs Apr 10/ggv/dl.

St KittsFlights + 6 Nights 4.5-Star $1769St. Kitts Marriott Resort

INCLUDES 4.5-star accom at a beachfront resort featuringan on-site championship golf course. Departs May 4/ggv/aa.ADD horseback riding to the rainforest for $145.

Seychelles Honeymoon SpecialFlights + 7 Nights 5-Star $2839Kempinski Seychelles

INCLUDES 5-star luxury accom nestled in the secluded BaieLazare. BONUS daily breakfast, bottle of wine, fruit basketand cake upon arrival included. Departs Mar 19/ggv/et.

Conditions apply. Ex: Toronto. All advertised prices include taxes & fees. Air only prices are per person for return travel unless otherwise stated. Package, cruise, tour, rail & hotel prices are per person, based on double occupancyfor total length of stay unless otherwise stated. All-inclusive vacations include air. pp=per person. Prices are for select departure dates and are accurate and subject to availability at advertising deadline, errors and omissionsexcepted, and subject to change. Taxes & fees include transportation related fees, GST/HST and fuel supplements and are approximate and subject to change. ◊Price is per person for quad occupancy (2 adults & 2 kids ages2-17) for total length of stay unless otherwise stated. ‡Limit one (1) onboard credit per stateroom for all cabin categories on exact itinerary advertised, offer can be withdrawn or changed at anytime. ^Conditions apply. One (1)resort credit per person. ΩConditions apply. For full terms and conditions please speak with a Flight Centre Travel Consultant or visit flightcentre.ca/cruise-sale. ac=air canada, ggv=gogo, ncl=norwegian cruise line, pcl=princesscruises, ua=united airlines, aa=american airlines, dl=delta, et=ethiopian airlines †We will beat any written quoted airfare by $1 and give you a $20 voucher for future travel. “Fly Free” offer applies only where all “Lowest AirfareGuarantee” criteria are met but Flight Centre does not beat quoted price. Additional important conditions apply. For full terms and conditions visit flightcentre.ca/lowestairfareguarantee-flyfree. Head office address: 1Dundas St W Suite 200, Toronto, ON. Call for retail locations. ONT. REG #4671384

1 866 828 225624/7

Over 1000 Airfare Experts across Canada.flightcentre.caMore great deals online!

New York$255Travel Apr 21 – Apr 28/ac

Orlando $349Travel May 12 – May 20/ac

Cancun $425Travel May 13 – May 20/ua

Vancouver $569Travel May 19 – May 26/ac

London $799Travel May 4 – May 12/ac

Barcelona &Mediterranean

Flights + 2 Nights + 7-Night Cruise

$2299Catalonia Sagrada Familia, Norwegian Epic

INCLUDES flights, 2 nights Barcelona accom and 7-night cruisesailing roundtrip Barcelona visiting Naples, Civitavecchia,

Livorno, Cannes and Palma de Majorca. BONUS $50‡ onboardcredit included. Departs Jun 18/ncl/ggv/dl.

Hawaii Flights + 2 Nights + 9-Night Cruise $2299Aqua Aloha Surf Hotel, Pacific Princess

INCLUDES flights, 2 nights Honolulu accom and 9-nightcruise sailing Vancouver to Honolulu visiting Hilo, Maui andKauai. BONUS $75‡ onboard credit and complimentaryΩbottle of wine, plus up to $1000Ω savings, freeΩ specialtydining and additional $175Ω onboard credit per stateroomincluded. Departs Sep 7/pcl/ggv/ac.

Beach Getaways

Aruba Flights + 6 Nights

$1389The Mill Resort and Suites

INCLUDES cozy accom featuring a palm-shadedpool deck and freeform swimming pools.

BONUS complimentary beach shuttle service included.Departs Mar 19/ggv/ua. ADD Atlantis submarine

expedition tour for $145.

Fairmont Banff SpringsBOOK BY FEB 28 FOR 3rd NIGHT FREE$1,199*Travel between: Mar 1–Mar 23, 20155 nights • 4 days of skiing • transfers

Mount Royal HotelBOOK BY FEB 28 FOR 5th NIGHT FREE$609*Travel between: Mar 10–Mar 31, 20155 nights • 4 days of skiing • transfers

Inns of BanffBOOK BY FEB 28 FOR 4th NIGHT FREE$599*Travel between: Feb 21–Apr 2, 20155 nights • 4 days of skiing • transfers

Book your BANFFSKI VACATION TODAY!

Contact Us for a Custom Quoteand Best Available Price and Airfare!

*CDN$ pp, dbl occ. Subject to availability. Offers reflected in pricing. Not included: airfare and local taxes. ON-4499356/4499372 | BC-34799 | 111 Peter Street, Suite 200, Toronto, ON. M5V 2H1

Merit Travel | 1.866.341.1777 | MeritTravel.com/Banff

Banff Lake Louise Tourism / Paul Zizka Photography

ALL INCLUSIVE COST: $3892.00 CAD, PPD OUTSIDE BALCONY BUINCLUDES: Return air, Toronto/New York/London/Toronto, Cruise,

Port Taxes and Transfers. Bridge Director on BoardExtend you vacation in London at our Deluxe Mayfair Hotel. Call for Details

Fares are per person, air included, based on double occupancy and apply to first two passengers in a State Room. Fares are capacity controlled based on space availability. Government fees and taxes of up to $22.74 p.p. are included. Fares are quoted in Canadian dollars. See applicable Cunard brochure for terms and definitions that will apply to your booking. Other restrictions may apply. Ships Registry Bermuda.

Tico

: 500

1951

8

Call Audrey Johnston CTC, IATM

905.815.9804 • 1.855.837.7888237 Church St., Oakville, ON L6J 1N4

BOOK WITH CONFIDENCE, MEMBER OF

QUEEN MARY 2®

NEW YORK TO SOUTHAMPTONSeptember 4-11th, 2015(other dates available)

TO SUBSCRIBE CALL1-800-387-5400

T14 G T H E G LO B E A N D M A I L • S AT U R DAY , F E B R U A RY 2 1 , 2 0 1 5• GLOBE TRAVEL

Half the fun of touring Swit-zerland is simply getting

around on its altitude-defyingtransport systems. Alpine trainscross tongue-bitingly high via-ducts and burrow through spiraltunnels blasted into mountain-sides. Cog railways claw their wayup vertiginous slopes. Gondolas,cable cars and urban funicularstranscend gravity. And in Zer-matt, at the foot of the Matter-horn, battery-powered shuttleswhisk guests to hotels with bare-ly a whisper.

In 1966, citizens here voted toban internal combustion carsand trucks, except for emergencyvehicles. It was a wise display ofvision. Locals call Zermatt a vil-lage, but it has since burgeonedinto a major ski resort townaccommodating 35,000 at peakperiods. Narrow streets arewedged between precipitousslopes. With conventional cars,“traffic would be deadly,”explains Amadé Perrig, who co-ordinated the hotels, cable carsand other infrastructure for 25years. Instead, all visitors arriveby train. Those in cars must parkfive kilometres down the valleyand roll their luggage onto a spe-cial shuttle train.

I arrived on a mild May after-noon. The mountain air wasfresh and clean. Fit-looking folkssporting North Face parkas andPatagonia vests strolled the mainstreet, eating ice cream conesand window-shopping whilepassing by countless chalet roofsand gingerbread balconies. Theold town is simply enchanting,

with robust houses built ofsquared-off, time-blackened logsthat sag slightly under the weightof centuries.

The next day, I took an electrictaxi to a spacious garage/work-shop to meet Bruno Imboden,who has designed, built andmaintained electric vehicles for27 years. A handful of mechanicsin coveralls tinkered with oldermodels; others worked on comp-leting new ones. Each vehicle wasa one-off of welded aluminum,designed to a customer’s specialneeds and powered by lead-acidbatteries. One charge lasts most

drivers a full day; they plug inthe vehicle and power it up over-night. Taxis, which stop-and-goall day without time for a break,need their batteries switched outafter about five hours. Each auto-mobile costs more than $100,000(U.S.) and lasts 30 to 40 years.

Imboden showed off a newhotel shuttle, a light pickup, aheavy truck for building materi-als and a 70-passenger bus hehad built. Its 96-volt batterybank, weighing 1,800 kilograms,had been removed by a tiny elec-tric fork lift. “What we build ishandmade quality,” he said

proudly. It has to be. “Wintershere are hard on vehicles, withsnow and slush, ruts and pot-holes.”

His family had driven horse-drawn carriages for years. As thevillage grew, his father bought anelectric car, built near Zurich,and put the first electric taxi onthe roads of Zermatt in 1977. Buthe faced opposition. After a refer-endum that year, electric vehicleswere allowed only at night, to re-lieve the burden on over-workedhorses. Soon, more carriage driv-ers wanted electric cars. A secondvote just a year later approved

their all-day operation. Then,“the electric vehicle thing justexploded,” Imboden said.

To limit congestion, private in-dividuals cannot own electriccars. About 500 taxis, shuttlesand service vehicles are licensed,all for business use; new permitsmust be justified. Today, Imbo-den’s brother has the last horsetaxi, while two hotels also runhorse-drawn carriages.

That afternoon, I boarded a cograilway that has been electrifiedsince 1898. Teeth on its wheelsmeshed with teeth on the track,carrying passengers smoothlyskyward, up the 3,135-metre-highGornergrat. I hoped for goodviews of the Matterhorn, but itwas socked in. I waited over cof-fee at the mountaintop hotel forthe clouds to clear. Instead, itbegan to snow. Later, back downin Zermatt, I finally got briefglimpses of the iconic peak,which still attracts some 2,000climbers a year.

On my final day, I strolledacross the narrow Vispa river,which bisects Zermatt. Whilestanding on a narrow bridge, notpaying attention, I was nearlyrun down by an electric shuttle –it came up behind me so silently.In the old town, a pickup wasparked outside a house, a charg-ing panel and cord convenientlymounted on the wall.

I thought a lot about thoseelectric cars. How quiet. How reli-able. How clean and green. It wasalmost enough to make me buyone. What a souvenir that wouldbe. Even better than a SwissArmy knife.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Special to The Globe and Mail

SWITZERLAND

Silent nights at the battery-powered base of the Alps In Zermatt, a resort village at the foot of the Matterhorn, a ban on combustion engines sets a serene stage for skiers

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

TOM KOPPEL ZERMATT, SWITZERLAND. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Electrified in 1898, a cog-wheel railway climbs 3,135 metres to the Gornergrat. CHRISTOF SONDEREGGER/SWITZERLAND TOURISM