presents

11 22 33 4411 Pretty in Purple

by Gena Bloemendaal

22 Yoked Skirtby Anna Zapp

33 Bohemian Beautyby Milinda Jay Stephenson

44 Hem Coutureby Anna Zapp

Simple Skirts

FREESEWING GUIDES44

Simple Skirts

FREESEWING GUIDES44

11 Pretty in Purple.................................................PAGE 1

22 Yoked Skirt ................................................PAGE 3

33 Bohemian Beauty ......................................PAGE 7

44 Hem Couture.............................................PAGE 10

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Skirts make excellent projects for sewists of all levels.They’re among the easiest garments to fit, and can be easilycustomized with unique design details. These four projects feature fun and simple ideas for creating your own stylish skirts. Easily embellish a basic skirt pattern with a ready-madeeyelet border as featured in “Pretty in Purple.” “Yoke Skirt”demonstrates how to correctly fit a skirt with a flattering yoke-style waistline. Learn how to make a trendy tiered skirt in “Bohemian Beauty”--no pattern needed! Add an eye-catchingscalloped edge to a skirt hemline in “Hem Couture.” Eachproject includes easy-to-follow instructions and helpful how-to illustrations to help you stitch stunning skirts to update and enhance your wardrobe.

Happy sewing!

Beth BradleyAssociate Editor, Sew News

sewnews 5 MON T H 2 0 0 6 00

projectquick-t0-stitch

Stitch this skirt in an afternoon to add someswing to your summer wardrobe.

pretty in purple

KWIK SEW 3220,View B (modified)

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GENA BLOEMENDAAL

MATERIALS7 A-line skirt pattern (such as Kwik Sew 3220)7 2 yards of finished-edge eyelet (for featured skirt,

size small)7 Matching all-purpose thread7 41⁄2 yards of coordinating 1⁄8”-wide ribbon7 Zipper as noted on pattern7 Hook-and-eye fastener

1. Measure the width from the finished fabric edgeto 2” above the border’s upper motif.Add !” for theseam allowance.This will be the border width.

2. Slash the pattern pieces along the shorten/lengthenlines, and shorten the pattern the width of the eyeletborder minus the seam allowance. (For example, thefeatured skirt’s border is 8!” wide, so the pattern wasshortened by 8”.) When shortening the pattern, align thegrainline and foldline, and then true the side seamlines.

3. Right sides together, fold each eyelet cut endtoward the center on the crosswise grain.Align themotifs. Place the front and back pattern pieces on thefoldlines and line up the motifs the same way under-neath each pattern (A). Pin the patterns to the fabricand cut out.

4. Aligning the motifs, pin the skirt front to the skirtback at the side seams. Stitch the side seams, stitchingfrom the dot to the hem on the left side for the zipperopening. Serge- or zigzag-finish the seam allowances.

5. Insert the zipper and apply the waistband accordingto the pattern guidesheet.Add a hook-and-eye closureto the overlap.

6. To cut the border, fold the entire fabric yardage inhalf lengthwise and align the motifs and lower edge.(The featured skirt’s border was 2 yards long.) Fold thelength in half again, keeping all motifs aligned, and cutthe border the determined width. Right sides together,match the motifs on the border short ends; stitch (B).Serge- or zigzag-finish the seam allowance.

7. Quarter-mark the border raw edge and the skirtlower edge. Stitch two rows of basting "” and #”from the border raw edge between each quarter mark.

Begin and end stitching at each quarter mark, leavinglong thread tails (C).

8. Right sides together, pin the border to the skirt atthe quarter marks. Gather the border to fit the skirtlower edge; pin. Stitch the border to the skirt using a!” seam allowance. Serge- or zigzag-finish the seamallowance and press it toward the skirt body.

9. If the border has eyelet holes, weave $”-widecoordinating ribbon through the holes, beginning andending at a side seam. Secure the ends by stitchingthem at the seamline on the skirt wrong side; trimthe excess. Z

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To determineextra yardage, double

the measurement for patternpieces cut on the fold or from

two fabric layers. Add themeasurements together, and

then purchase at leastthat many inches

of eyelet.

A Center patterns on motifs

B Stitch border ends

C Stitch basting lines between quartermarks

FoldFold

BorderBord

er

tip: To make a finished-edge eyelet skirt without theborder, choose a skirt pattern with a straight hemline.

Make basic patternalterations to accommodatefinished-edge eyelet.

make it fit ANNA ZAPP

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YOKED SKIRTS

McCall’s 5053

A yoked skirt is amust-have piecefor your wardrobe this year.

This classic style is very

flattering, slims your figure,

and is usually more

comfortable than a skirt

with a binding waistband.

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ALSO KNOWN AS A GYPSYSKIRT, the yoked skirt lends itselfto myriad styles, including a simpleA-line shape, box pleats, full-flare biascut, tiered ruffles, multiple bias tiers,asymmetrical pleats, wrap fronts andgores.The yoke can be narrow orwide, straight around, crescent shaped,V-shaped, or asymmetrical.

A yoked skirt’s length will varyfrom mini to full length and willhave plenty of volume. Wear a yokedskirt with waist jackets, fitted blazers,and other slim-fitting tops, such aswrap shirts and shrugs that tie in thefront. This style lends itself to embel-lishment, either on the yoke or theskirt body. The yoke and skirt fabricsdon’t have to match. Be creative anddesign an original style.

After you’ve designed your skirtand purchased a pattern, you mustadjust the pattern’s fit to match yourshape. The upper finished edge onmost yoke patterns falls slightlybelow the waistline, or where theskirt would fit if it didn’t have awaistband. If you love the pattern,but want a lower fitting, hip-huggerstyle yoke, see “Lowering the Yoke”on page 15.

fitting the yokeWhen choosing a pattern, select thesize that best fits your measurements.

On some commercial patterns, thewaistline falls approximately !” belowthe natural waistline.The patternwaistline will need adjusting dependingon where you fit the yoke. Somepatterns have a waistline target markand some don’t.

To fit the yoke and skirt, measure yourbody at the necessary places, thenmeasure the pattern in the sameplaces, calculating the ease.Adjust thepattern accordingly as directed below.

If you want to embellish the yoke,make a muslin yoke and fit it first, oradd 1” seam allowances when cuttingand trim away the excess fabric afterfitting and stitching.

how much ease?Ease is the difference between yourbody measurement and the finishedgarment measurement in a given area.A yoke’s ease is usually "”, which isconsiderably less than the ease of mostgarments.

The yoke shouldn’t fit snug like awaistband. If you know how muchwaistband ease you like, apply thatease amount to the entire yoke fromthe waist area to the lower edge.

To determine your waistband ease, puton your best-fitting pants or skirt, andpinch or pin the fullness from thewaistband (1). Obtain the easeamount by doubling the depth of thatamount. If you pinched #”, your totalease is "”.

Mix a variety offabrics and styles tocreate a yoked skirtall your own!

Kwik Sew3152

tip: Use multiple-sized patterns to your advantage. A patternmay fit the waist in one size, but the hips in a different size.

Measure your body and cut on the corresponding pattern line,blending the line from one size to another as necessary.

1 Pin out waistband fullness.

pattern adjustingOpen your pattern, and cut out andpress all the necessary pattern pieces.

Locate the waistline target mark onthe yoke if the pattern has one. If itdoesn’t, estimate where the yokeupper edge should be.

If your pattern has a hip-hugger styleyoke, it’ll indicate where the upperfinished edge falls. For example,“Natural waistline is 1!” aboveupper finished edge.”

Measure the yoke length from thefinished upper edge to the finishedlower edge and record that measure-ment on the pattern.

Take the following measurements, addyour desired ease amounts, and recordthe totals on the corresponding patternpieces:

7 The waistline, or where you wantthe yoke upper edge to rest.

7 Around the body where the yokelower edge will lie.

7 The full hip.

7 The skirt length from the waist tothe desired hemline.

Many patterns have the finished waist-line measurement printed on thepattern. If this is the case, then cutout the size that matches yourmeasurement plus the ease.

If the finished measurements aren’t onthe pattern, then measure the pattern,compare your measurement plus theease to the finished amount of thewaistline, and adjust the patternaccordingly.

Measure the total finished waistcircumference on the front and backyoke pattern from seamline to seam-line (2). Don’t include the seamallowances in the measurement.

Compare the finished measurement toyour waist measurement plus the ease.

Mark the pattern at the side seamswhere your cutting line should be. Itmay not be on a specific size cuttingline.

When cutting, follow the line for thelarger size if the markings are inbetween two sizes and the differencebetween sizes is less than "”. Repeatthe steps to determine what size tocut the yoke lower edge.

Your side seam cutting line might beon size 8 at the waist and size 10 atthe lower yoke edge.This isn’tuncommon, and sometimes theopposite scenario applies.

Cut the yokes and apply appropriateinterfacing.

Baste the front and back yokes togetherand pin-fit while wearing a top you’dtuck into the skirt (3). Mark the newsewing lines.Transfer any changes tothe pattern.

After pin-fitting the yokes and makingall necessary changes to the yokepattern, make the same changes tothe facing pattern pieces.

Some patterns instruct you to cut twoof each pattern piece, one for theyoke and one for the facing. If yourpattern has standard facing pieces,discard them and use the yoke patternpieces for the facings.

2

3 Baste and pin-fit yoke.

Double for full frontmeasurement. Subtractseam allowances.

Yoke Front

Placeon

fold.

4 Mark lower waistline.

Yoke Front

Placeon

fold.

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5 Cut lower-waisted yoke.

Cut.Lower Waistline

tip: If you don’t want to make a muslin, cut the skirt yoke pieceswith 1” seam allowances and pin-fit the yoke. After

fitting, transfer the changes to the pattern for future reference.

6 sewnews

matching skirt &yoke alterationsCut on the same size line for the skirtbody upper edge as for the yokelower edge.

Cut the same size lines for the skirtside seams as you did for the yokeside seams.

For a fully-pleated skirt, you mighthave to adjust the pleats’ size so theskirt body fits the yoke edge. Forexample, if your skirt body’s circum-ference is 4” greater than the finishedpattern’s circumference, you’ll need todivide 4” by the number of pleatsand take that measurement out ofeach pleat. (See “The Basics” on page23 for more information on pleatingand gathering.)

lowering the yokeThere are two ways to lower a yoke tocreate the hip-hugger style. Either cutthe upper edge of the yoke lower,which lowers the waist and narrowsthe yoke, or fit the existing yokelower on the body.

To cut the yoke down, decide whereyou want the yoke upper edge to siton your body, and measure downfrom your waist.

Locate the pattern waistline. If it’salready below your natural waistline,subtract that amount from the totalamount you measured down fromyour waist.That’s how many inchesyou’ll remove from the yoke upperedge. For example, if you want theyoke to sit 5” below your waist,but the pattern’s waistline is already2” lower than your waist, subtract 2”from 5”.The resulting 3” is theamount the pattern must be lowered.

Measuring down from the cutting edge,mark the yoke the amount you wantit lowered, keeping the marks parallelwith the upper edge (4).

To fit the yoke lower edge, measurearound your body where the yokeupper edge will rest.This will be yournew waistline measurement. Measurearound your body where the loweredge of the yoke will sit.Adjust thepattern as explained above.

Cut the yoke with 1” seam allowances(5). Pin-fit the yoke, placing it asdesired.

If you’re designing your own yokedskirt and want to get a sense of theyoke-to-skirt proportion, look atavailable patterns for examples.

Consider your body type. If you’reshort-waisted, you’ll want a wideryoke, and if you’re long-waisted, anarrower yoke will give a moreproportionate look.

The shorter the skirt, the more narrowthe yoke, but not always.The skirt’sappearance also depends on thefabric choice and how heavy the skirtlower portion appears. If, for instance,you’re embellishing the yoke, be care-ful that the skirt has enough weightand/or volume to balance out thedecorated yoke. Z

altering

ready-to-wearyoked skirts

There are TWO WAYS to alter a ready-to-wear yoked skirt.

1. Take out the zipper, pin-fit the skirt, stitch the new seams andreplace the zipper.

2. Take out the skirt’s right side seam, and make the alteration there.

Make your choice depending on the skirt’s construction. It might beeasier to remove the zipper than to separate the yoke from thefacing, and then remove the facing and yoke from the skirt at theside seam.

A Zapp Rule on ZippersIf your pattern calls for a center-back zipper,

use an invisible zipper or a lap method application.Centered zippers are notorious for stretching open,

making a garment look homemade.

MATERIALS7 1 yard of white cotton batiste7 3 yards of white cotton gauze7 51⁄2 yards of white cotton eyelet (Use

less fabric if tiers are pieced together.)7 1 yard of 1”-wide elastic (more or less

depending on waist measurement)7 White all-purpose thread

CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVEN-TURE.Add as many tiers as desiredto complete your custom skirt.Choose the tier widths depending onthe desired number of tiers and thechosen skirt length. Do you wantyour skirt short and flirty? Constructa two-tiered skirt with 10”-widetiers. Or do you want your skirt longand romantic? Construct a six-tieredskirt with varying tier widths (asshown).The featured skirt has six tiersranging from 5” to 8” wide.

Measure forMeasureFor the waistband tier length, measureyour hips at the widest point and add3”.The featured skirt’s waistband tiermeasures 5”x 40”. From the batiste,piece together fabric as needed to cut

the waistband tier to the determineddimensions.

For the second tier length, multiplythe waistband tier length by 1.5.Thefeatured skirt’s second tier measures6”x 60”. From the eyelet, piecetogether fabric or cut the second tierto the determined dimensions.

For the third tier length, multiplythe second tier length by 1.5.Thefeatured skirt’s third tier measures8”x90”. From the gauze, piecetogether fabric or cut the third tier tothe determined dimensions.

For the fourth tier length, multiply thethird tier length by 1.5.The featuredskirt’s fourth tier measures 6”x135”.From the eyelet, piece together fabricor cut the fourth tier to the deter-mined dimensions.

For the fifth and sixth tier lengths,multiply the fourth tier length by 1.5.The featured skirt’s fifth and sixth tierlengths both measure 7”x 203”. Fromthe eyelet, piece together fabric or cutthe fifth and sixth tier lengths to thedetermined dimensions. Eliminate theneed for hemming the skirt loweredge by using an eyelet with a finishededge for the sixth tier (as featured).

Before measuring the elastic, deter-mine where you want the waistbandto rest.The waistband rests a coupleinches below the waist on the featuredskirt. Cut the elastic to the desiredmeasurement.

Gather TogetherSet your serger for gathering by adjust-ing the differential feed to its highestsetting and the stitch length to itslongest stitch (4 mm on most sergers).Increase the needle tension to 6.The upper and lower loopers shouldremain on a neutral or balancedsetting. (Refer to the machine’smanual for assistance if needed.) Setaside the waistband tier and gathereach remaining tier’s upper edgeindependently.

Catch the spring breeze in a tiered peasant skirt made fromeyelet, cotton and gauze.A serger makes gathering the tierssimple—but you can also achieve the same look using a

conventional sewing machine.

7 sewnews

BohemianBEAUTYMILINDA JAY STEPHENSON

tip: If you don’t have a serger, orif the fabric is too thick for the serger

to gather effectively, gather andassemble the skirt at the same timewith a ruffling-foot attachment on a

conventional sewing machine.Experiment on scrap fabric before

stitching the final garment.

@FS: Feature Sub

8 sewnews

Serge the tiers together by setting theserger for a four-thread safety or over-lock stitch. Right sides facing, centerthe waistband tier lower edge overthe gathered second tier upper edge;pin and serge, removing the pins asyou sew. Repeat to serge each tier tothe one above it. Each tier willextend slightly past the tier above it.

Finish LinePlace the skirt on a large flat surface.Use a yardstick to trim the tiers diag-onally on either side (1).

Fold the skirt lengthwise with rightsides together, and match the rawedges; pin. Serge the raw edgestogether.

Serge-finish the skirt upper edge.Tocreate an elastic casing, fold the skirtupper edge 1!” to the wrong sideand press. Straight stitch close to theserged edge, leaving a 2” opening forinserting the elastic.

Guide the elastic through the casing.Anchor the elastic loose end with apin so it doesn’t disappear inside thecasing as you feed the elastic. Makesure the elastic isn’t twisted, and over-lap the elastic ends. Zigzag throughboth elastic layers several times tosecure the ends.To evenly distributethe elastic, place your hands inside thewaistband and stretch it. Straight stitchthe casing opening closed.

If you don’t use a finished eyelet forthe lowest tier, serge-finish the skirt

lower edge. Fold the edge "” to thewrong side and straight stitch close tothe serged edge. Z

9 sewnews

A Overlap tiers; serge, leaving upper edgesexposed.

1 Trim tiers diagonally on both sides.

serger inthe raw

For a different look, center andthen overlap the adjoining skirt tiers1⁄4” (with the wrong side upper edgeof the lower tier overlapping theright side lower edge of the uppertier (A). Raise the serger blade so itdoesn’t cut the fabric as you sewand serge the tiers together. Thistechnique leaves the upper rawedge of each lower tier exposed.Continue stacking each tier andfollow the instructions below tofinish constructing the skirt. Leavethe lowest edge raw and straightstitch 1⁄4” from the raw edge toprevent raveling. Or hem the loweredge or add an eyelet with afinished edge for the last tier.

tip: Pin a diaper pin or large safetypin to an elastic end to easily guide

it through the casing.

HemCouture

10 sewnews

ANNA ZAPP

Vogue 7735,View A(modified)

satin stitchingSUBSTITUTES

If your sewing machine doesn’t have a special satin-stitch setting,adjust the zigzag stitch length so the stitches touch and no fabric isseen between the stitches—but not so short that the stitches stack up.

7 Use an open-toe presser foot so you can see the stitching line.

7 Slightly tighten the bobbin tension so the top stitches are smooth withno bobbin stitches showing on the right side.

7 Set the stitch width to 4 mm to 5 mm.

11 sewnews

You’ll be theparty’s mainattraction in thisflirty skirt.

3 Trace hem facing onto fabric

Hem facing template

Fabric8”

4”

4”

5 Draw scallops

4 Fuse interfacing to fabric wrong side

Cardboardtemplate

Lower raw edge

11⁄2”11⁄2”1”

Skirt panel

Interfacing

5⁄8” seam alllowance

4”

6 Pin hem facing to skirt lower edge

Sergededge

12 sewnews

TRANSFORM AN ORDINARYSKIRT to suit any special occasion byadding elegant scalloped edging.Choose an A-line or slightly flaredskirt pattern and replace the traditionalhem by satin stitching a shaped edge.Draw scallops using a curved edge,or create a different design based ona shirt or jacket detail.Any designyou choose will give your wardrobea little edge!

MATERIALS7 Skirt pattern (such as Vogue 7735)7 Fabric and notions according to pattern

envelope plus 3⁄8 to 1⁄2 yard additionalfabric for hem facing

7 Pattern-tracing cloth7 1⁄2 yard of 19”-wide fusible interfacing

(appropriate type for chosen fabric)7 Lightweight cardboard (The featured size

8 skirt uses a 4”x 8” cardboardrectangle. Cut it larger or smallerdepending on the skirt panel widths.)

7 Air-soluble marking pen7 Fabric glue (such as Fiber Etch) or seam

sealant (such as Fray Check) (optional)7 Matching embroidery thread

The following instructions are for aneight-gore skirt with the panels thesame width at the lower edge. If theskirt panels in your chosen patternaren’t the same size, adjust them oradjust the scallop design for balanceand symmetry.

Add a hem facing to hide theinterfacing when you’re sitting andadd body to the hemline. If youmake a skirt in a fabric suitable fortear- or wash-away stabilizer, youwon’t need a hem facing. Choose

an appropriate stabilizer for yourfashion fabric. The featured skirt ismade from silk doupioni and thehem is stabilized with fusible tricot.

Creating ScallopsAdjust the skirt pattern to fit in thewaist and hips.

Decide the desired skirt length (thiswill be the outer scallop curve) andadd 1”.

Using one skirt panel pattern piece asa guide, trace the panel hemline and4” of the side seams (not the panelcutting lines) onto the pattern-tracingcloth. Draw a straight line from onemarked side seam upper edge to theother (1). Cut out this piece.Alsocopy this piece to use for the hem-facing pattern and set it aside.

Fold the pattern-tracing cloth width-wise according to the number ofscallops you want in each panel;unfold. In this case, the pattern-tracingcloth was folded into thirds and theninto sixths to accommodate thecenter scallop.

Using a French curve, a protractor orany curved edge, draw a scallopdesign onto the pattern-tracing clothusing the fold marks as a guide.Thefeatured skirt has three scallops perpanel—two that are placed !” higheron either side of the center scallop.Cut out the design. Fold the designin half to check the design symmetry.

Redraw the design from the pattern-tracing cloth onto the cardboardrectangle to create a scallop template.Cut out the cardboard template (2).

A simple-to-sew skirt gets gussied upwith satin-stitched scalloped edging.

For a perfectly symmetrical design, fold the markedpattern-tracing cloth in half and then cut the design.

1 Create template for scallops and hemfacing

Pattern-tracing cloth

Skirt panel pattern

Side seam allowance

5⁄8”5⁄8”

4”

2 Cut out scallop template

Pattern-tracing cloth

Fold marks

Add intrigue withasymmetrical scallops.

13 sewnews

Hem FacingLook at the pattern envelope to deter-mine the finished skirt width.

Trace the hem-facing pattern onto thefabric, repositioning the pattern toextend it to the full skirt width (3).If the fabric needs to be pieced, adda !” seam allowance on the edgeswhere the pieces are joined. Place thehem facing slightly on the bias, allow-ing for less piecing and providing amore forgiving fit.

To stabilize the hem, use the hem-facing pattern piece as a guide to cutas many pieces of fusible interfacing asskirt panels. Cut the interfacing wideenough to cover the scallop edge andas long as each panel is wide, notincluding the seam allowances.

Pink the fusible interfacing upper edgesto diffuse the lines, making theminvisible from the right side.

Fuse the interfacing to each skirt panelwrong side lower edge within theseam allowances, following the manu-facturer’s instructions (4).

ConstructionSew the skirt according to the patterninstructions. Serge-finish the sideseams and press open.

With an air-soluble marking pen, mark1” from the lower edge at each panelcenter.

Using the cardboard template, drawthe scallop design on each skirt panelplacing the center scallop lower edgeon the 1” mark (5).

Piece the hem facings together at theshort edges to create a strip. Serge-finish the hem facing upper edge.

Wrong sides facing, pin the hemfacing to the skirt lower edge.

Adjust the hem facing if necessary andstitch the remaining short edgestogether. Repin the hem facing inplace, wrong sides facing (6).

EdgingStraight stitch just above the drawnscallop lines to secure the hem facingto the skirt. Set the machine for satinstitching.

Begin stitching at the scallop upperedge on one side seam. Stitch alongthe marked line, positioning the satinstitch right needle swing directly onthe line. Lower the needle on theoutside edge of the stitches; raise thepresser foot and pivot the fabric tothe correct position for stitching thenext scallop. Repeat to finish the skirtedge.Tie off the thread ends or back-stitch at the first scallop.

Cut away the excess fabric below thesatin stitches, being careful not to clipthe stitches. Pull the fabric taut as youcut to help the fabric fibers pull intothe stitched edge.

Tack the hem facing by hand ormachine on the seam allowances only.

To smooth any remaining fabric fibers,use a clear-drying fabric glue or seamsealant on the scalloped edge.

tip: Practice satin stitching below the intended design. This area will becut away after stitching is complete.

Experiment withdifferent designs fora bigger challenge.

A clean and oiledsewing machine makessatin stitching smootherand faster. Always begin

with a new needle.

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