SINGER

650/670

THE SINGER COMPANY

With your new

SI N GE R* Sewing Machine

ODLDENPanoramic

You will be able tofollow the latest international fashion

CONGRATULATIONS .... on vour dmoice of a top quality

fullNth atured Singer Se wina machine With it you will be ableto create beautifully aJlored clothing for your entire family,

as welI as handsome decorative addiions to your home.

The advantages built into this fine precision machine can

be fully enjoyed and appreciated only if you

vonipletely undiersand how to properly operate both the maddine andits versatile iccessories.

BEFORE YOU SEW please go through this instruction book, page ,

by page while seated at our machine Examine each section and

perform each tFo; peration in the sequence shown

These few n roitcs of careful preparation will thoroughly

familiarise ou xih the full range of the machine's capabilities

You can then proceed confidently with

whatever fashion creation or other sewing

project you may wish to acconplish.

Congratulations again on your wise choice of the Singer

.Sewing machine that will prove to you for many years to

come

W•IAT'S NEW FOR TOMORROWIS AT SINGER TODAY I

S I NGER* sevceWhatever you are, you will find expert. de-pendable Singer Service avallable. II yourSewing Machne should need servicing, callyour nearest Singer Sewing Centre to be sureof warranted Singer Parts and Service, Youwill find the address in the telephonedirectory.

A Trademark of Tt*1 SINGER COMPANY

Form 30-1250 •v. oo;g

~Natd In W600,IeriOrmany

coyigh Q1%? by The Siner Company

2

ContentsWSeE ipao 86 No lnuexj

Operating the Machine Pane Sewing Page

Pniwijal Mots of We Nicdtine I. A Snujtht >iitdnnq .22

DIl) .. 6 Imotmlsomt -9

Two Speed Foot Contro.ller 0 Sour stthunq 31Tteadlol Drite 8 f P,luan l and Dmmnrtvo l Stcii....32

Sesinq Light. ...... 7, 4 lrai sto 3Reov al dud Ri~aesnee •A fh'tomtl' NirhMir S','d 2n,7Zoo 12Ci, i at Xpplw only to ) Lhn i. - v i A iton, (Steld stitdd 1t3, 70

Stn o n•hos. 1 ,. 0 tltslnit .3

, ,, {hI),,, V n%7/i)l• ~ i; sltlofn o 362

S I >t I hlan 'n ý ert to 1 32 4

s h"I itH , 7l 2 ,[ T , 1

lliq r 57

Nepl aml 11" 1,t A

Ipl Huldold 17 i (I(t 461h" If~ 1t

1'.1 mI! T,

lI~~~t'2 ItQ'0w W'I' Imic uoni 62

RIqKW'0 M NO1 ld it1 A rit> Sa1 61,

I mlld3 Sco'o', 64

ýp-~~~) .,] up11

m1 Pot1 W t

'e':0 i7o(i

"In I>lF oI r

77.5

Al 26

SINGER 6f0

1,A ~ o n ei~ D lra l lt 'ai

12 13 14 15 16 17 18

2

4i

SINGER 650

Principal Parts for 650 and 670 Machines

I Slide Plate 19 Thread Guide2 Throat Plate 20 Spool Spindle3 Presser Foot Screw 21 Thread Lead-off4 Presser Bar 22 Spool Seat5 Needle Clamp 23 Light Switcd6 Presser Bar Lifter Lever 24 Hand Wheel7 Pressure Release Button for Stitch 25 Bobbin Winder Engaging Lever

Pattern Selectors 26 Bobbin Winder Spindle8 Needle Thread Tension 27 Stitch Length Regulator9 Built-in Needle Threader 28 Built-in Sewing Light

10 Pressure Regulating Dial 29 Bobbin Winder Pre-tensionIt Threading Chart12 Chainstidch Thredd Guide13 Link Type Threid Take-up Lever14 Needle Thread Pre-tension15 Stitch Pattern Selectors For 670 Madcine only

16 Stitch Width Selector 30 Cloth Plate Disengaging Button17 Special Disc Holder 3! Attachment Box Lid18 Built-in Stitch Chart 32 Detachable Cloth Plate

S

.e jric ODive .

Before setting the machine into operation, be surf, itat the 0voltage and cycles stamped on the el+ctrical nmelate Bare within thý rariyf marked otn the e-kc-ric meter in lti[iedby the + local poIr Company

To plur in the macdtin, push 3-pin terminal ptuq C uilt( 3pimterminal bloýk at the right end of nmddne Then connect plugA to lectriadl outlet

Foot Controller A1hhe toot controller sets the imactune into opiration and requ-lates its speed The harder you press the pedal D, the asterthe madchne will sew ntitl the mnachine reaches its top speed

lower Speed Control'pof~i wl r-1 p ilit ' w; \ ' I"m[ r i, i ii aw +, •td , /1 d tho t 1ýý r,l J '! :+ m I ..• . .. i ,' , ýl

p '•d jfwj, i; T , f ,' Io? ,*s .p'1w i' ho 1[[• , {'j,'. <i w t'I,ý.a ' t ýl, "M• IN " ]t•if .1, /•:, p ,ý / n fic r~friq, ,! fdidll,1:, w -I

<ci up ql l p ,Vl• i "I hl[ ,in , P

'pr~Pr. l-" r1 operl r•q liii> l m tii~h l >*!,1' 3 lJ I•l''< iiott • ]"

Information for 650 G 14 MachineThe 650G 14 mndctine is equipped with a special hand wheelwhich can be used for motor and treadle drive Therefore, themachine can be changed to treadle drive addhtionally

... W m in.

MD

The builtin sewing light is turned on or offby means of light switch F. which is localedbeneath the arm top cover lid

FI/1 To change the light bulb

[lisco rnelI ptiJ fromi ( 1vrical outlllet beforereoingO, nj ol'd bulb W1ith Inumb of rtqht hand,push on and down on rib of light lens (seeItiustratiol[

IDo not ittempt to utrs( ro" bulb out of socket,Press it intm w olt ,nd it tihe same time turnbulb over 71 i r ion shown to unlbok bulb

pirn . Wi tlhdtt], bult

Press new bull) f} I ,Aoket, with bulb pin G(qnterinq slot (A ,ocket and turn it over indirection shown to I e{k bulb pin G in properposition

Unlocks Locks

Bulb pinB

Aiiil! i

Treadle Driv. (For .00 Machim only)

In case that you do not have any experience in sewing withtreadle drive - first it is necessary to become familiar withthis type of drive.

Loosen stop motion screwand place both feet ontreadle,

Turn hand wheel over to-ward you, allowing feet tomove freely and lightly withmotion of treadle. Practisethis motion until you are ableto re-start machine with handwheel turning over towardyea Then tighten stop mo-tion screw for normal ma-chine drive.

8

To Replace BeltRemove arm top cover (as described onparjeA 83).Inert end of belt into cutout A and lead to .tP po that it enters groove in hand wheel,Lead belt around hand wheel and downtihrough guide of treadle belt idler pulleybl-acket B.

Lead belt around band wheel in cabinet Joinb:th ends of belt by means of belt clip. Ten.sion Do belt should be only heavy enough toke.p belt front shipping

Replace arm top) Cover.

Connection of Sewing LightBefore inserting electric plug A. be sure thatý0otaqe stamped on nameplate B s,. within7tange marked on the electric meter installed A l

y the local power company

Electrical Connection for Machne. Push 3-pinterminal plug C onto 3-pin terminal block atrioht of machine and connect plug A at other ý13en.i of cord to electric outlet.

Bumb replacement is described on page 7.

Information for 650 G 14 end G 15 Machine with Selective Motor andTreadle DriveThe 650 G 14 and G 15 madcines are equipped with a special hand wheel, which canbe used for motor and treadle drive, Therefore, both machine models can bedcanged either to treadle or electric drive additionally.

When changing over from treadle drive to electric drive, the belt has to beremoved from the band wheel or the cabinet by throwing off toward cabinet wall.

9

Stitch Plaftiw Selectors

TI , , ý i. pattern of your To select required stitch patternstilh , " , i 1 w ý I I , lw re you start themacline .dt pýh, I. Turn hand wheel until needle is at its

Setting for highest position.

Straight stltdng: AK I2. Depress push button A and keep depressAed unlil selection is compleled.

Zigzag stltching: HIL I Push stitch pettern selector button in and

Many (omb nbai ons are possible for decora- slide to left or right to bring indicator linelive sewing and practical sewing. Some of to desired settinghese combinalions are shown on the stitch

chart inside the cover on top of machine.This cover may be left open while sewing.

A

•00

Sti Width SleCtor

You will ao need to el the lever for sew- To set stitch width selectoring. The stitch width selector does two jobs:

*~ Pe traiehit stitdiing, rih: lever 5CR fil To position, ceprccsr 5111h widt'h s01( [e!r andrn}!t--Ie p i~o)iin i•r•enre, riht or lefi] Nor- right. D) not set stith Width st lector whilemnatty, you will use setting 3 (centrej. thfb e •ql-le is in It- hItsi(a Thc nuierwls

Therelore, memorize the normal setting fincatlv pos i)ens but imter i, d tale set-for straight stitching: AK3. tilts may also be used

* For zirigz - stilt crin, this lever tontrotsthe setting of the width

Straight Stitching: I a 3Needle Position Selling

Zig-Zag Stitching: Stitch Width Setting

24

11!

Stitch Length Requgltov

Thý 1-- (bI eto To set stitch lengthtn did I ir ini y,,I dire( t or. Loosen thumb nut by, tlu ro g ti. left PoStfin

lever for desirerd stitch lt:ioith Tiqhyen thumbThe numpr,]rdisn •itlher side nwuan: nut by turning to rightLelt hand side (20-61: By raising the stitch lenglh regulr tar 1o theNun her of stitches per inch. highest point, reverse stitThnig is accompihsh-Right hand side ( - 4): ed at the same sl ithr length as forv ard ItStitch length in millimeters reverse stitching is desired with loiked stildh

length position at 4 mm (6 sttudes per inch),A slojertliii <*r!nro4 can be made in case of turn thumb nut to the kit until shitt lengthsti, len(l,!i k.,, bIarn 1 mm or 20 stitches regulator can be adjusted to its highest pointper ilh at reverse stilchingThe m - i -Vh ti length 4 min (6 stitchesper inc-!1 (an bc lndked in place whIer, satIdong Lids, plvatý or muoltpie lavers ol heavyfabric,

j1Unlock

...22ocks12

Throat Plate and Presser Foot

I ( ;eeieal Putpow Throat Plate

i, lo (I h ( I i ] ' {~ t dil, ! }; •t ! l

!!F 1 ll% 1 ,, Ti :i• ýt la a d {

;,. [ h illlli•, )il-- 1- '~~ ~~iii •i;1 i [

P , Q ! ": * l, ,! . •l i ,r !

N I 1i7 It r

2 Straight Slilfh Throal Plate 0

A ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ i q%~, SuihTrotPat

T I , I; 4 r~ l I) Y 'l •'Ii •

pl I b, ,

Chai St!itc Th •roa Plate i>Il

I, ý r 'A' •, < l * 11"I 40 t •

4 Fied (pover PlateI I' - T D Il I l,[• t } " • ll 7 *

? .I 1, d Ik

To Remove the Throat PlateRaise presser lai Turn hand wheel to raise-,r, needle to Its highest position, Open slidepla'e. Place both thumbs under throat plateand lift plate from unladtuie.

To Insert the Throat PlatePlace th.r,.t pl it in position over twoclampirn pins anJ re ease. The magnets drawthe throcit *late intc proper position. Closeslide plaie.

To Change the Presser FootTurn hand whebU to raise needle to its high-est positi "n. Rave p--sser foot. Loosen pres-ser foot ,'-rew i, filt the presser foot can beslipped from arwimd the presser bar.

Presser Foot Litter LeverA normal lift of the presser in )t lifter levelbrings it up inll position I ant, by doing sothe presser fort releases open ng a. Normalfabrics can be easily placed uwider the pres-

3 /ser foot.

For easier plafsing of thicker fabrics, th?presser foot thttr !ever can be raiked furtherto position 2. This raises the presser footto its highest pr)si-ion b.When raising )rcsser foot li ter !ever intoposition 2 you t.ust overcome t spring pres-sure and keep the lifter le.eri n positionsince it does not lock in th ; pc.s;tion; butwhen released tle spring pressure returnsthe lifter lever ir.to position I1 Be sure that

[a the presser foot Iter lever i; set •i position- -. 3 before sewmCi md not left iit po-Ition I in

error.

14

Positton for darningIncrease Decrease and embroidery

operations

S-eissure DialI, dial regulates the pressure that the pres-

so' f•oo exerts on the fabtic, Smooth, evenhond!inn of several thicknesse, of fabricTo un ts when pressure is correctly regulated.I _,,ivv press r, is for thick fabric and lightp) e(ýtS is tor thin fabric,Tor light a pressure will result in irregularPeoring which affects both quality of stitch

,.n I evtn'rss of seams.

he , boavY I ressure not only affects SilthiV SePe I thedl Y out will also mar smooth

1aces daiJ pile fabrics.

Sii fare 1inish, ds well as the weight and,, lure o the fabric, must be considered inJ •<mli nig the amount of press•tre needed,

'It set the pressure

Lowe- the presser foot

To increase pressure, turn eial to highernumber. For darning, turn di I to D, whirh releases

To decrease pressure, turn dial to lower pi-essýre and permri' darning without annumber embioidery hoop.

Needle Thread Tension

To incr.aso t-.t %vtt: I urn cia! to right handside ýt h gh -h2 ,it be*)

To dnc.erise Co;A : furn diql to left hand

This dial regulates thp degret of tension on Site (to tel T,

your ieedle thread. Fr icetatled invtruc,.-z -pages 27 a.d 28

15

Needles and Thread

' , T•)~~~ýý g'dli: lhýN''~f

To Chlrmn [tiet Needle

Ii [ Zh h i I I/ f l ' Il I k I I1 1 1 • 1 •1 Vý I I

ttitl< tl >H iArd N ull i i' iw I I

Nee'tdle lind I h read Selectioin

I"I

i, S m+ I, i I't. + i , + 1

Fabric. Thread, No"dl and Stitch Length Chart

Fabrics Thread Needle Straight StitahigSimsis Macline StltchesS_ _Sites per mdi n mm

60 matreivoedDelicate- tlle, tlfton, one lace, 100 Cottonsilk, orahndo fine tricot fPne Synlhe tir IS to 20 1-1-5

Thread

Lightwelght - batiste, ngazbdlt e0 Mercerized 12to IS 1,-2Jerseyi coile, taffeta, silk, caepei 80 to I•O Cottic a t I18 to 10 25-3plastic Pur~e Silktetlalcpin~ie l Synthe~tic Thread for plastic)

Medium Weight - inrq•uhma, man- 50 Mercerizedmade •atbri, pique, liben, ddatz, 60 to O Cottonfaille, satin, fine corduroy, snit- P14e lk2 to I 15falls, cortn-barked plastc Synthetic Thread-

Medium Heavy - gabardine, 40 Mercerizedtweed, sailcloth, denim, coatings, 40 1 toC n 12 2-2,5furnishing fabrcst60 Cotton

Heavy - overcoatings, twill, 30 Mercerized 18 a to 10 2,5-1upholstery fabrics, canvas 24 to 40 Cotton

) Does not apply to cdainstltchi•g.

16

.S~po~ol...odr

S; ofU(

ShPp j)"o oftr.±"l

1ýd- I if d2A~ý~ 1 f qtr I

r3 Iu

(111(l o Hie I.ý "t, d 'j ... I u ?ý

Bobbin Thread

To Wind the BobbinI Release hand wheel: Turn stop motion

screw with right hand in direction shown• •by arrow while holding hand wheel with

]left hand.

2 Slip bobbin onto bobbin winder spindle3 • and depress bobbin winder engaging lever.

:3 Thread the machine as shown. Wind seve-ral coils of thread around the bobbin indirection shown by arrow, and start ma-dune.A soon as enough thread is wound on the

7• bobbin it will automatically disengage it-self

Stop machine, raise bobbin winder engaging2 " :

It

lever and remove bobbin fron, bobbin win-der spindle.

4 Tighten stop motion screw with :ight handin direction shown by arrow while 'holdinghand wheel with left hand.

Threading the Bobbin Case

I Hold bobbin so that thread leads off indirection shown.

2 Place bobbin in case. Lead thread into slotand under tension spring.

3 Draw thread into notch at end of springpulling off about 8 cm (3 inches) of threacacross the bobbin.. •

4 Close slide plate allowing thread to ente: 2notches shown

.......... .4

lei

~N

r TT

4

19

Upper Throading

Threading with Built-in Needle

Threader

1:4> 11, s"

(iI' } i i I

ItI

2O.

2 0

(1 T ii , at ,r ................Ii, i , ' ih~l l 1[i ' ! ý )1' t ,, {' (::ý "i ,1

} 3N

dA I1 1 '), k 'sý i d • % t i i11i- !!][2!l ý[ ! ii-

vll I ] , th t. • , <id ý t 1, ,1 t thiq Iii ....

~A

Removal and Replacement ofThreading Hook

([}] •i!] or; 4)

To Remove Threading IfookSw inq (dI)n 0 f uc feilltreaidvi a. . i,d, wkie~q mýIvfn t n tO 1< ý Cv.',~t'

To Replace Threading Ihook Push rear right angle edge of hook againstr d Ineedle threader and li hteerý scrcw,

P[{~~~ilm 11 iodi, ih!.ý7 11ý WI)• ] ,:,iI teei r t{, U•

[h ,. r it> )11> I1I' I (n 1 sthuw;rlP!:csiliorl ihlr~airtq i ti:,>o k b lw't' tihrenol >t't t itI €ritlll,' I ,ittlld ' rl\ S\%. t'r •1 1i1i rlie 1[

Oft) to nocdli> ttsresvle. mioo k Iwo o Wl

Aliqn the h mes in th, hook an needl n, re "- . 1 1 , ,,l 'Id d nit wd ;r, Intel Tht' httk Itt'[ j, ý 1 tret] the

RepI >c 1 1(0, ti er 11"-, sd: f

by d

2 3 .. m..

21

Straight Stitching

K

©3

Settings a e FittingsWhcn sett not * 1 t 4, atlern selectors at AK (straight stitching) and tihe slit(h widthselector a .( ctt, centre needle position) you can use the following two types ofequipment,

I. General purpose throat plate and general

1purpose presser foot.This is the basic equipment for all utility

i 2. -Straight stitch throat plate and straightstitch presser foot.This equipment should be used where ac-

(" MqO :curate straight stitching is required, whenstitching sheer and flimsy fabrics.

This equipment requires stitch width selec-2. tor setting 3, otherwise the needle hits the

throat plate or presser foot and breaks.

To meet special requirements, you may wish1 2 3 4 S 1 2 3 4 5 to place a line of stitching to the left or right

S of center. You must use the general purposethroat plate and presser foot in this case

* (equipment I).Stitoh width selector setting I places sitithing

Stto the left; setting 5 places it to the righng* Intermediate settings may also be used.

Raise needle above fabric before movingselectors.

22

Raising The Bobbin ThreadNow that you have threaded both the bobbincAse and needle, you will need to raise thebobbin thread through tie needle holl In thethroat plate.

1- Hold needle thread li jlP I With left hand(thread above i resse fool). Turn haf,.wheel slowly toward you so that needleenters throat plate.

2. Continue holding needle thread and uirruing hand whet I until r oedle rises antbrings up bobbin thread in a loop. Pull theneedle thread to raise the loop to the eyeof the needle.

A./

3. Undo the loop with your finger.

A

4. Place both needle and bobbin threads dia-gonally under presser foot, making surebobbin thread is located in the rear threadguide of the bobbin case.

23

Sewing a Seam4, J Set stitch lenqtIh regulalor tor tildl lhenqbh

d(esr(d and needle thread hnsion to a mTr-dium value,

\.ith presser foot raised align fabric %,ihappropiriate seam lgude line orn the throAt

;.ite.Poitin eede ito!abcibout ¼ inchco(I c flIroim the r•ar edge,

Lower the presser foot Set stitc ( lenIth reqU-Liter to revverse and badglitdh to end lf Imnd-leridl loti{iliior(•>

0. Set requlator for forward slitcinng anrd stitchto end of scare.

24

Guiding and Supporting Fabric

\lo.ohnc-!s !ed o be juidod in fronit ofthe p uesser foot only.

Thte, quidelmh eý )f Ilit hrlid plwte are

,I moons to kevp the sedui straflbt, fheOTOwni",I )ýT the oppo(site jill>

strnt"on. Iu eqýXtra , m[!'A of 'b~ric It is bestk t-e s•,.tti quld(, dhzcrnbed on polqe 6Of

VI

hi !rt 1ii dO Vs <jit, Os hi, Iftiri to pi-t C

!no,> (n pu~ke~n In thins hold 0> 'V II

I ,1 >1) st~ t~( o theý sIt,~ l tiki' fý'!d Off f 1Foil 'hmlhd I" nsetýt

50~~~~~~a' ((l t >t> Inr.i rie Itt re t, p,,no

25

Stitch to edge ot fabric to complete seam.Set stitch length regulator to reverse andbackstitch some vhata to reinforce end of seam.

Turn hand whi el to bring take-up lever to itshighest point. Thise presser foot and removefabric,

H WCut both thread on built-in thread cutter, as

.. .. ... .. ......................... .... .. .. .. .... ..

... hReset stitdi length regulator Pn rwovrd-H.. Hstitching.

2 6.•iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii~

Reguiatiitg the Thread TensionsI>0 "U torrsros are ( arp>t~t To cthtWin a pori-tet; Iroh, thev jnt Ico 'J -'w needle an .1

1 . <LdSst taw ke pore exacto in M, muldhI of te sewn q

To ieter ninno correot iensh m seftiig, Sew a NO Wan, NI a s;-mple Nyr ir bmhw by u<siiqrniWediurnoole j <(Ld tension Iapp4ox 41. IH thi t[id sia~an uoWS an in *;crrot appCaflaCQe,I u can ydjust the needle thread tension as lfolows.

/ g

I

1: the thread bi ,ps lie on the underside of the If the thread boos lie on tne upper surfaceeto i tI ie , ee thread tension is too loose, of the sear, - I needle threazi tension is too

(o ci r by tu,:i,,l the tension dial to higher tight. Co( ~ ct b tutnino tension dial tonumfe-, lower - u- be>

'y udjutrIp ih-ig 28W.

hw r dloIwd tonusla n In nwrllum valueo i'nd IfCWhorial sham

fI rl ' I Ii

-I I<5

n I a I

n 0c70 o f 1 6t 70 1 hVt~th, r '•I , 1H l I-r w i ti!

< $i I ll 1 * / l

1111 m l ire iJ~ boo I ) I

28

Zig-Zag Stitching

The ziq-zarl fn rtlres of your SIN'(;R sewrcog niadikratn give you arn alrmost unlimited dcotlOf 51itdtl patterns Sowle pattlerns arc, puel{y de coratie dand will give on an individual toucdto your clothes and your home whie others are used for practical purpoe>, as Well

H( 1rr re socre examples

* The plain zig-zag stitch is used for button-holes, UltODn sewlng, Seamll liruslng, apD- Mifique work etc

* The multiple stitch zig-?ag is well suitedfor faýtlning] elaslic anrd for all types, of V V V V V V Vhousehold mnending

* The blind stitch can lbe ise~d for producing jj4 JJJ) jJJjjhems, seam finishing et(c

* The overedged seam is appropriate fortuse II ptoducil u and finishing of seans VVVVV Y VVVVin elasticiýzedl fabricS

The stitch patteorns are prodiied oithor fronm the hlIttrn discs or fromI the itteirhangeablesiti'al discs. A geat variedt •f aiditiulal s3tit f patterns tcan be obtained by- combiningbuilt-in discs with special discs

Equipment for Zig-Zag Stitching

;456 x

General Purpose Throat Plate Genera Purpose Specal PurposePresser Foot Posner Footfor plain xIg-2ag for Sell stitchingStitching and openstitch patterns

29

Settings for Plain Zig-Zag Stitching

2 3 4 5

©

Stitch Pattern Selectors at B L Stitch Width Selector: 2-5S• t 1,r tir, .... .nt . the zig-zag stitch; The stitch width selector controls the st,tdcSclettir sett; B , s fh nte edle posh a idth (Refer to page It.). The settings iraaflto)1 (coiltreo from a maximum of 5 to a minuimum of 2.

Raise needle above fabric before morvingstitdc pattern or stitch width selectors

Stitch Pattern Selectors at ALleft needle positionM

iAL.

Uýtý Palt-rn Selectors al B Lcentre needle po-iticon

BL

S;~t~n th ttern Selectors at C Lright needle position.

Left and right neaedle positions are oniy ef-fective at stitch widths loss than 5.Selector setting B is generally preferred. Set-tings A and C are only used when specialplacement of stitidnng is detsired. For examp-le, Buttonholes, button sewing

30

Satin StitchingSatin stitchinog a st•iwst of i•! srd.Z1q-iaq stwfres.' uses it" e "in a "J Itost tdi length reguflator

13s I sewinggsuisul l can be obtained by uinghe special putpose presser tona

Some fabrics may require the addition of abackinc; to lensure firlm 'sflr stodrm n ('organdet or lawn is suitable for this propo e

Adjusting stitch length: The identded a a 12.. . .

bthind the stitd indi(a)or, a, siown in tar'Hliostrist I'll provide~s a means rof ilraduoalishortiening he stitch lenglh.

As thre regulator knot) is tiurned, the p unotl~rides deeper into this indentation unit VV aclosed satin stitch s obtained

The excact staitc len(,thl will vary wilh tiletexture Of tile fabric It is advisable to makeia test oil d scrap of same falihe first, beforeproceedinq wsith actual work .

Adjusting needle thread tension: Satin sttd- ___

tle requires less needle thread tension thanstraight stitching or open zig-zag designs, ......Furthermore, the wider the satin sticd, the .......lighter the tension on the needle thread mustbe.To determine correct tension setting, a testsample should be made on same fabric. A pro-perly balanced satin stitch should lie flatacross the material, Any tautness or pu&*e-.....1ot a~lu .Voped viefrinq indicates too high a needle thread ten- kttn Wil -Sion..

31

Practical and Decorative Stitching

Basic Patterns - Built-In Discs

L N P R

MNIj yjSpecial

B

The seven built-in discs are represented by The stitch width selector controls the widththe letters L to R. If you move the stitch of your stitches. The widest stitch widthpattern selector to one of these letters you (setting 5) will generally produce the bestwill get one of the basic patterns shown sewing results for the pattern.below.

The lower stitch pattern selector is generallyset at B = centre needle position Setting Arepresents left, and C represents right needle Raise needle above fabric before movingposition, as described on page 30. stitch patltern and stitch width selectors.

L .... N . P Q if.

L =Zig-Zag StIlgh0 = BlWn Muff0 = Multtp=1-Sutdi Zig-Za.

32

Basic Patterns -Interchangeable Special Discs

The five interchangeable special discs that

come with your sewing imachne can be usedlo produce still other basic patterns. Thecircledl numbhers tlor exampleQ§ in this bookindicate special disc numbers 2

3 nf

22YVVYYVYVV.*<Od dgflfl

edged soms. (Refer topage7 0 . )When you use a special disc, the upper stitchpattern selector must always be on Special.It you then set the lower stitch pattern selec-for on A, B or C, it will place your stitches with special discs, setting 5 will generallyat left, centre, or right (Refer to page 30c) produce the best sewing results for the pat-B (cenlre) is generally preferred, tern.

The stitcrl width selector can then be used to Combined basic patterns can be seen oncontrol the stitch width. Also when working pages 34 and 35.

To Change Special Discs I. Raise stitcli chart cover Remove disc and

I Raise needle to its highest point. place another on spindle, push down until

2 Move tipper slitch pattern selector off disc snaps in place.

specral. 4. Set upper stitch pattern selector on special.

N PR L N P R

KNO NPR/M /O0 Q 0 • K ,• M Specia l

33

Combination Patterns

You can nmbier, tvo basic patterns either

* By selecting two buit-in disc positions or" By selecting one built-in disc position and <one irtletharyiealen sprcial disc,As we have seen, lth letters L to R of the, upper sWiIch patteri selector represent the built-indhscs arid spec-at represen s the inl rdchaigecbe spta ,t disc:>Since there is only one selector bulton for setllng ihe letliets L to Speoial, how is it possibleto conmbine two bhasif patt[(nYs? The arnswer is that tho etters D through J of the lower stitchpattern selector also represent the boilt-in discs. As shown below, D corresponds with L, Ecorresponds with M, and so forth. In this way you cati conmbitne two basic patterns

Upper Stild Pattern SlectorL M N 0 P Q R

D E F H I JLower Stitd Paftern Selector

IPlease note" When set out combination patterns, the stitch woidth seleclor no longer controls the

stitch width but it vaies the pattern and may he set t> 2, 3, or 4 (not 5).* Combination patterns cannot be used with two nee~dles

Example of Combination Pattern Varied by Stitch Width Selector

23 4

0 JL2 JL 3 JL4j

'4-i

Examples Coutbton mtnSe n4 Retaled(Some examples are also showa in the sttft coat cover a top of ¥YOrt nddnt)Mase neede above fabric before movin stitch pattr and std width ae, Odomn

Lo.we SUh Patter Select"rUpper Stitch Pattern Selectr

D Specia . Sp2atial 7.MWSuf sole®

D SP~ 2 -- -.. .-.- -.-.-. -. . .. .D Spedia 3j S-

D P 4 Tflflj¶JflLMXVLXLPLPLP r~fllr f

B P 2 tA~-7> ;t

F 0 2

F F 2 kAAAAA~~4~ A~

G M 4 4101W W MW41iA~ 40AWM1,4 6Mr ---- 1:

G P 4

G speat® 2

G Special ( 4 -*" -1- ' v-.•. " * 4.. 0 Of

H Speal ® 4

I L 2

35

Two-Needle Stitching

By using two needles at once, you can produce two parallel, closels spaced, decorativelines of stitching simultaneously. You can use either one or two colors of thread; oid youcan choos%, either a stiaight stitch setting, or o ne of the basic pattuns. (Cormbinatilon patlerlsCannuot be used for two-needIle work.) Some of the attractive designs you (c n teaIc areshown on page 38.

How To Insert Second NeedleThe needle clamp easily accomodates twoneedles, Catalogue 20120 ([15X I) To insert theneedle, simply loosen the needle clamp screwand insert the additio nal need e from theright with the long groove toward you.

To Thread The Machineplace firstI spool of thread onto spool holderand lead thread through eye of first threadquide. Raise stith deirI cover and insertauxiliary spool holder (which is furnishedwith the machine) into hole provided for it.

Phwc second spool of thre•ad onto auxiliaryspool holder dard thread ds lor one-needleshiching (see page 20), making ceitain thatboth threads are separated by the centerdisc of the needle thread tension.

36

Straight Stitching With Two Needles

KK

h2 S2j

m 2

A

Basic Pattern Stitching WithTwo NeedlesI pper Stit(I P *ttrrn Se!ector: L to SpoctiiIo•,<r SW di Palteon Solirtor: ASit, ý (WidIh SSBlorr: 2 or 3 (maximnumn)Throot Plote CenIipo>'Pros or Fotot Gen0ro pnrpuI' 01

Special Purposv

L N PR

A

37

Eraqi.. of onom&.v Two-NabcU S"tIdgsettiStinhgn

A Special ® 3

A Q 3.

A N a 3a.a. 4a aa a. M

A Special ®-3 V. .

A p3

A SpeciaW 3 00 0WONNO

A 0 3 . A.. rCCCCC. .

Special Disc Numbers

Chainstitching

\4omre ,, ny o'her sewlinl roat<1inem yair of -lerlohtinq loops on the underside If theaw >I\(I;R will ehliiiileao , toseidEtiMle lahle. Fhi, slithebe ire produced bv the

tistimin4if aniii ht~oitw imartie <eI httoid dkmie so you do nlat needwOt k plt nstV doiae by hllnd in that blok bolhbin thrd or i holbiri Ben• lase• th stitl>sidlo old sinqle thread inslilehinq cln es are! formed bs a sl e f]vdinile thread, th(e Intlbe "olt hIV[ vo vr •lot •tha nialcine. linked ops trislra' easily" The entirt lineTh Is ( ibl's vou to usetýa•i sal in" {Ill madlonlef, tIt " ion[ ta0] I (d f otetVI'd 'iIth ust a tpl!

to Iitms new waYs Il, like liavfnrj i onII, the lstad end, A Is,, the, lopl formationteinrl 1inbine, l t1he sott laes makes them less tau!t i•h

;mqlth-thread rtahinslitcuint look's like rtga' reqlulr straiqht sI ches. That's what makesLit zloirlil slit imq on top. hot it is a s rti>' rtaitliinhtinilIt f xlibh

Top Side of Cl•halstltdl Seem Underside of Chalastlitc Seam

Hiere are a few of the many sewing jobs for wihich you will find chainstitcdinq useful

Basting -- trial seorns for fittinqt ront0u(- Hemming curtains and draperies thlb in aIlon qtdel]ies, z)!pper opt rlinin s. lIningsS arIid t1i (l to be alltoedilItt riIc ings Se wing ternporary tucks for d(iidren

Stay-stitching To, poesem, teei h F q( tIis..'oi Ls lpe (jO[IiI, d I Il h III I I dy ' r 1ý

datin II st S rb(III b]M aking welling ior corded searms, IWholtr

Fastening removalble trimmning - ',unt' a', tar cording _ [or IrnTnlt iii i arId bo lttolt 1( I[

collars white collars and auffs Attaching hem tape and Plastic waisltIfarl-

Stitching seams in knit and stretch garments

Some examples dre iliuas:ao d oil alrtl' It

To Prepare The Machine ForChainstitching

I . Remove regular throat plate and bobbin.... .2. Insert chdTistitd, loop retainer into bobbin

case (Illustration 1)ZTilt latch Ulllustration 21 and turn to the

rear against stop (Illustration 3).

I. Insert chainstitch throat plate

2

Machine SettingsStitch Pattern Selectors: A K

Stitch Width Selector: J

Stitch Setting: No rally set for maximumlength, approx. 4 ram; but any stitchlength between 2 and 4 Tnom may be

3 "used.

Presser Foot: General Purpose or StraightStitch

K

A

40

Threadingin ddit ion tof 1he nor-mal threading You must,dso pimý nee-dle thread through Cyttlet in thedawnsi•tc, thread guide.

To Adjust Thread TensionChamstitdunq requires generally less needle-thread tension than regular straight stitching,when compared to the same size and type ofthread When the tension is correctly adjust-ed, the dsam will be flat and smooth.

A

Puckers in the fabric and pindced loops indi-cate too mudc tension; turn tension dial to alower number.

Large, irregular loops indicate too little ten-sion, turn dial to a higher number.

41

StitchingWhen starting mnake -sure that the take-uplever is in its highest position, T1is will pre-vent the needle thread from pulling out of

S. the needle if the thread has been crt tooshort. Caution, you may sew forward only.Position neeodie in very edge of fabric, lower.the presser Ioot and stitch. If tile material is'I pivoted at thie neodle for operations wherecornering is required, mjjitke certain that theneedle is on its upward movement (approx.V, inch [I cmj abov its lowest point) to avoidskipped stih les. Then continue to stitch inthle new direction.

To Remove The FabricThe ,asiest way of reimoving ili fabric is toNew off the edge of the fabric (Illustration I)while sigh ftly pulling on the material, Thisproduces ar chain which should be cut sonmedistance away from the fabric (Illistration 2).However, if the seam is ended before theedge of the fabric, bring the take-up lever toits highest point, then lift the presser footand pull some thread through the take-uplever fror the spool pin (Illustration 3). Nowdraw thre loose thread between presser foolplate and top surface of fabric to the leftwith the scissors (Illustration 4) and then cutthe thread approx. '/, inch (I cm) above fabric(Illustration 5). Remove fabric from the ma-chine by pulling it straight back, away fromyou. This will cause the thread end to pullthrough the fabric to the underside and forma temporary lock (Illustration 61. If you wishto secure this temporary lock, fold the threadend back over the chain and fasten with handstitching.

q-,

42

To Open The SeamChaiestitdhnj (an be removed smoothly and cleanly in seconds in vme direction nly. fro"the end of the seamn toward the start of the seam. The opening direc tion is distinguished I-the <troweoads of the loops on the underside of the fabric wh.d, po.at t•oard the bei~fnnioof the stCa.

To open the. seam, smiiply cut the last loop formed on the undersic, of the fabric (Illusftrtion I and 1hen pick up the freed lhread end from the top surface of t1 o tebric fIllustration 2With this free thread cnid the entire line of stitdnhleg can be removt Uy a single pull (1].ustrai~on 3).

To Change from Chainstitching to Lock Stitching

p.•4rep t i Žq the bobbin and iserting the desired zig -zag o str go; st i Idthroat plate.

43

Ways To Use Chainstitchinghere (al 0 • ertd oV ill ýtIidl you will flid <.iianstchin, prtriole ro either retitars t T d ihq•! ' t ýt ri n d i t u q A] t ldd i l i< > n al u g ij e lt ~ ri , s a r e is t e d io n p a q j q R9

Garment Filling

Tunie and 01>0 rqx lie t xhnians tii-fung 1, is U d at ei•it !i'i• in/ l! iu IC [lt S ormuslin s'lhs f'o Iria] l h'ir'qrs The lirrmues,

t'if th it IIIf V!-' ItS(' d(CýMl y inl lthflc1 , Nilthe stlil•dhn rWin I( ripped (ilt in seconds ifddtulj U i ts itr(l At r(1± tSAr-

Construction Guide Lines

]a many instances, construc-ton quide Inesfor pockets, but tol nh]les, atil d oher detalscan be advantageously marked kUIh dhain-slitch basting. The studsinq will qive clearly

....... + ---- defined line marking. Yel, unlike dialk orpins, it will not rub olf or becomie lst as thefabric is handled, This method lerid itselfparticularly to use on wools and other fabricsthat do not retain needle penetrations.

Growth and Shrinkage Tucks y ~ jtT lj(k5 671 I Fr(1qu(!ll0[V 1)1,1 iuji ItJill .......t rlm l, 'ild dl!!'J (olý , ] . l ' ,• ]. ýJ" f" fi'r ik

ehilds , riowilt -i, I hii ir iirinkijq, t,(I o nittlo ly" is no I ln r '! chr l r i, 11 f ttilks tIrtdiistidl~diet NSi11116l urhodk Ilhe I1s looIp f

' 11a1i ! tilted Iulu thea ,it iI the luit

44

Attachments

Note: The attOcmrntnts whidc ore not regularly furnishedwith your madcine are available for separate purdcase atyour local SINGER SEWING CENTRE.

45

sp~i! ft". Poo

This light, flexible foot is designed for satin and decorativestilding. It provides maximum visibility anti manoeuvrabilitywhile allowing closely spaced ziq.zag stithies to feed freely.The eyelets in the foot accomodate a filler cord.

The special presser foot is ideal for accurate placement ofsatin stitching in buttonholes, monograms, motifs, appliquework as well as for cording.

SUtic Pattern Seledors: AL

Buttonholes Stitch Width Selector: See below

Always make a test buttonhole on a sample Throat Plate: General Purposeof your fabric Be sure to duplicate the thick- Presser Foot, Special Purposeness of the gfarmeent and include interfacing Sif appropriate. Stidt Length: More than 20 sttches

You will need two stith width settings, one

for side stitching and one for the bar tacksThe (hiee possible settings are shown below

3 4 5 1 4 2 3.4

46

I~I

I

Marld Lin" .t~~ uCuwugt Space Sabl Sttldiddg

Buttonhole LengthFirst, decide how long the cutting lengith needs to he, (the opening through which hie buttonpasses). This will depend onl thle diamneter Cond thkidness of the button, To find the right lengtlh,cut a small hole in a scrap of your fabric and graddually enlarge it until thle button slipsthrough easily. The length of the finished buttonhole will be the cutting length plus 1/a inch(3 mm) for each bar tadckThen mark the buttonhole on the fabric as shown above.

The procedure for making a buttonhole is described on the next page.

Raised Or Carded ButtonholesBoth fine pearl cotton (size No. 8) and billion-hole twist make suitable filler cords forraised buttonholes.

Place the spool of filler cord on the sec ondspool pin. Lead the cord through thre fuistthread guide, straight down betwev len then-cIre and back tension disc, into the larglethread guide and then through the eyelet onthe special purpose foot. Draw the cord underand in back Of the foot and proceed as forregular buttonholes,

47

Sftiohin Procedure for M~j) a salA0e

Set stildx pttemn selectorson AL and stitch widthselector on setting desiredfor side stitchiag of buti -tonhole. Place work underneedle, aliing Centremarking or buttonhole C 56with centre score line of C

special purpose foot.

Side Stlching: Position needle in fabric at point A. Lower Bar Tackt Adjust stitchfoot and stitch to end of marking. Leave needle in fabric width selector for barat point B, Raise foot and pivot work on needle, Lower tacks and take at least sixloot. Take one stitch without changing stitch width selector stitches. Stop at point D.setting, bringing needle to point C.

3 J 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 2 .

D

EI E

Side Stdtilngt Readjust Fin Bar Tat(. Adjust Fasteni Stitch To seau-stitch width selector for stitch width selector for re stitching, move stitchside stitching. Complete bar tacks and take at least width selector to I andwork to point E Leave six stitches in reverse, take three stitches. Remo-needle in fabric, ending at point F. ye work, draw threads to

the underside and trim.Cat opening for buttonwith sharp scissorsý

48

AppliqueApplique odds beaury and interest to wear-nq dpparel, hotes and fabric furnishings.

Either contrasting or fabric self can be usqedleffectirely.

'the st itch most comnmonly used in dppii-gueing is a closely set zig-zag stitch (basicpattern BEL The width of the zig-zag stitccdn be varied to acconiodate fabrics of dilfe-rent weaves and textures. Combination pat-terns and variations can dlso be used toapplique with decorative stitching.

There are two methods by which appliquework can be done. The appropriate methodis determined by the fabric being used, anda test sample is advisable. Position the designproperly and baste it to the fabric. Attachthe special presser foot to the presser bar.

Method No. I

Set stitch pattern and stitch width selectorsfor desired applique stitch. Stitch, outliningthe design with applique stitching. Any ex-cess fabric on the outer edges is trimmedaway after the stitching has been completed.Remove basting.

Method No. 2

Adjust stitch pattern and stitch width selec-tors for straight stitching (A K 3). Outline theentire design with a short stitch. Trim rawedges to the stitching.

Readjust stitch pattern and stitch width selec-tors for the desired applique stitch and over-edge the design with this stitching. A smooth,lustrous finish results, which requires no ad-ditional trimming Remove basting

Corded AppliqueCorded applique, which gives a raised, three-dimensional effect, is a particularly attrac- OFtive finish for lace applique.

Either method of appliqueing can be usedwhen cording is desired. The only change inprocedure is the introduction of the cord,over which the applique stitching is formed.See page 47 for threading.

49

Monograms and Motifs

Many of the decorative stitCh patterns (cn Transfer the design (by tracing, usually) tobe used for tihe creation of attractive mono- the right of the fabric.grams and motifs. You can buy designs -- orcreate them yoursell If the fabric is soft or loosely woven, baste

a backing of lawn or organdie to the wrongMake a sample first, to determine suitability side.of stitch pattern and hnd the right stitch After stitching, trim any excess fabric closelength and width, thread tension, and pres- to the stitchng.sure.

Stitch Pattern Selectors:BL for zig-zag stlthtlngSee pages 32--35 or stitch chartfor decorative stitches. To Find The Beginning Of The Pattern Unit

Sttch Width Selector: To reproduce a specific portion of a stitch2-5 (2--3--4 for Combination pattern, first stitch on a scrap of materialPatterns). until the desired point in the design is

readied.Stitdi Length:More than 20 st:tdhes per Inch Raise presser foot and remove scrap. Bring(Less than I pIm)h motif or monogram into correct positionThroa Plat Inoneunder needle; lower presser foot and stitch.Throat Plate-General Purpose This procedure is recommended for all pre-

Presser Foot: cise design placement. Leaves, and flowerSpecial Purpose petals, for example are created in this way.

Free motion embroidery with hoop can beseen on page 75.

50

Seaming Shears

A da ity hairline finish is particularly desi-rable, for the inside seams of sheer collars,

Stitch Pattern Selectors: BL facings and yokes. Seam allowances thatStitdc Width Selector: 2 ordinarily show through are eliminated.

Stlich Length: About I mm IRoth heavy duty thread and tatting threadThroat Plate: General Purpose make suitable filler cords (see page 47 forPresser Fool: Special Purpose threading).

Stitch along seam outline (covering cord iused). Trim seam allowance close to line ofstitching. Turn and press.

51

CouchingNsovel uff ocl <ii, obl twd by> cowt nqqvtr~i or bri'd %'IOh dcrmalvel~ stil tP patterfl%.SptIdcI patlt&m>, dto tfl<* mo!ppromsr>±tta s

Iithey allls• th dt (oto itývt o,:d lo show •sptlrt ol thtf sigýýJqný

Rhfor to jmgo 17 for throthnkg instructions

Lace Edging and InsertionD)eh0lcot 'Ind durable 7ig-fi stitridling is•appts I atepl< ( 1"r tho app•f homl of

edgin (<1(30(35 mnwtld uerhti:ns.

\I..aN dot• alhve stldi pattemns c'nl be usedA effeLtively sorvin]q ds both finish dnd trim.

52

The space between the holes in the button determies the

stitch width settings For buttons with standard hole spacing,ruse settings I and 4. The number I setting is constant, but 4can be increased or decreased as necessary to accommodatebuttons with unusual spacing.

Stitch Pattern Selectors: ALStitch Width Selector: I and 4Feed Cover PlateButton Sewing Foot.

Set stitch pattern selectors at Set stitch width at 4 The To fasten stitching, adjust toA L and stitch width at I ne•dtle should then enter into number I stithd width settingAtachi fee(d cover plate to th,, right hole o I the button and take approximately threeOiOdi he. Position fab ric and Take aipprox imnately six zig- si tdies,button under loot so that zai} stitbhes in this position.needle will ent(r left hoe, End on the lelt side.Turn hand wheel towdad vouuntil needle rises out ol thefabric and is just above thefoot.

2 3 4 5 2 3 4 5 12 3 4 5

In order to frorin a thread shank, stitch over a regular machinencedle. Position button and lower button sewing foot, Placeneedle in the groove of the foot so the point enters the hole.Knelloorm a long shank, stitch over the heavy end of the

53

iiGoiteral Purpoe Foo

• ~ foi with the g]eneral purpose throat plate, this foot provides

a wide noodle slot which accomodate.s all slot(h settings andc~anl be used for most sewingJ operatoions.

Applications: Seams and darts, sca~lloping; blindstitca loons;mending and maintenance.

Lingerie Seams Flat Felled Seams

Stitch Pattern Selectors: BL Stitch Pattern Selectors: BLStitch Width Selector: 211. Stitch Width Selector: 3Stitch Length! About I --2 mm Stitch Length: About I --2 man

dependingl on fabric depending on fabricThroat Plate: General Purpose Threat Plate: General PurposePresser Foot: General Plurpose Presser Foot: General Purpose

To make a linqero se,ým ýý cafile and For heavy duty, strain pro',t Seams, u-eflexible, first straight stlco ý)oýi selectors double interlocked foamf, zig-fag stitched tinat A K3) hitted scearil on wiý 1 ide and press both sides with seltitng B L3.both seamn allowdlices, to ri, ýýdv. Flom the

righ sie, i,;)stith w h _qý,c seting Stitch the seam on I te rightt side of the fabr c,

BL 21h, lettingl the nlekd!4 , rnw h on• ~k ler ta igflse m d osjethe seam line dnd ler!!1 Press the seam op(,i, then fuhi and press the

seamn allowance o o one side, ko epingl the rigihtside of the stic ({}1rin top,

Trim the under seam allowance to one-halfits width.

Turn the upper seam allowarice edge event),over the trimmed edge, and top stildo

54

Seams In Knit Fabrics Seam Finishes

Stitch Pattern Selectors: 1. Stitch Pattern Selectors: BL, BO or EQStitch Width Selector: 2 Stitch Width Selector: 4 - 5Stitch Length: About o.r 2 Stitch Length: 2- 4 num depending onShratd Plaen: Generab put dchoice of stitch and fabricThroat Plate: General Purpose Throat Plate! General PurposePresser Foot: General Purpose Presser Foot: General Purpose

Seda•is in (fabrics Him st retid or bids scants in Sedia edges support the garimet nand shouldfirm fabri(s aroe olen sta yed with seam tape be given a duoable finish if the fabric is likelyfor durabiliy. Position seam tape with ecdge to raVel.exactly on samd lin e, If seam is urved., pre- Make a test sample first to deteHmisie whe.shape tape to fit by steam pressing Bast, thvr ?ig-za{g stirch L blndstich 0, or mentape in place, if necessary Stitch with ine ding sutch 0 best suits yout fabric. Alsoziq-vag stitching (B121, allowing neertle in adjust stitch length anti wiith settings to suitenter seam tape antd sean allowance alter- labric Choose the settingis that will give younately Press seamin open after clipping on the Most 'open' stiich ihat will secure thecurve, fabric edges Avi lir htmsh, over-sti(thed

edgesTrim seam edgbes eve ByPlace slitchi f teta b,- ] c•irqe of the scansallowanrce oi over thin , -sl as illustrated

111

Ac

`-4

4--

5< ii?.

4'• 4 -

DartsDarts provide fit and contour in a garmentand should be accurately stitched. A straightstitch dart (A K 31 is usually formed by stith-Ing from the seaam edge, tapering graduallyto the point, where the last three or fourstitc•tes are parallel to the fold. Stitch beyondthe told to 1l0ic a thread chain approx. VI to'ý inch (20 core it length Tie the thread endsinto a single knot close to the sitiLdnng.

Thread ends at the point of the dart are eli-urirnated when the single thread principle i%employed Unthread needle arid with Lhreadleading through the throat plato front bobhinrethread needle from back to Iront. Tiebobbin and upper threads Ioget her, [rawknot through all threading points including

NOM d ke-up lever eyelel and tension, winding.enouqh on the spool to complete stitdcing

the full length of the dart Take any sladk outof the thread dby turning the spool. Lowerpresser font and stitch Iron, point of dart to-ward edge of garment section and backritdhto reinforce,

This m-thod is also ideal for inside darts inSheer fabrics.

Darts In InterfacingNon--woven imeerfacionqs (an be shaped with-out bulk with zig-zag stitcding, Stitch patternselector settings BL or BO can be used

*Cul out the dart allowance on the stitchingline. Bring raw edges together and pin over

* a muslin stay, and stitch, Backstitpl at both~ends,

56

Scalloping

Dainty scalloped edges are used extensively 'I/ inch (3 mm) and clip into the points bet-as Self t rimming on)i blouses, dresses, l ingerie we~en scallops.arid children s clothes, Some fabrics may also need notching, for a

smouther, evenly turned edqe.

Turn and press.

When forming scalloped tucks, add additio-nal V. inch (8 mm) to tudk allowance for

Stitch Pattern Selectorst seaming.

Stitch Width Seledor: 3-SThroat Plate: General PurposePresser Foot: General Purpose

Perfectly formed and evenly spaced scallopsare produced automidtirally at slitch patternselector settings BR or BST. Setting BRresults in a 12 >sti h ,t allop, and BS() in a24-sitctd scallop Stitch length regulator a•nstitch width selector vary the length andidepth of the scallop.

Place right sides of fabric together (Shapedor bias edgos should he interfaced. Stitdcscallop.

After sti tdclrg, trim allowance to less than

Wrong side of scallop Right side of scallop

57

MendingThe multiple-shi ch z g- Jg is welt suited lor at types of ho isehold mending. It forms a firm,flexible bond for the rel~ir if rents and tears, and is ideal for the <einforcement and appli-cation of elastic Sti:ch lhngth aid width are regulated according to need

Stitch Pattern Selectors: BQStitch Width Selector: 2-SThroat Plate: General PurposePresser Foot: General Purpose

Rends and Tears: Trim away ragged edges.Place dn underlay on the wrong side of tearo'r reinforcement. Using multipie-st lid, zig-

7ag B 0, follow the line of the tear bringing1hfe edges together. Shorten slitch length atvilds and corners to give extra strength.

Application of Elastic: Elastic, such as usedin waist bonds, must be Stretched as it ISapplied, to ensure fullness required in thegarment.

Blanket BindingThe multiple-stitch zig-zag B Q is an excel-lent stitch for applying blanket bindings andaffords both a decorative and durable finish.Remove worn binding. Baste new bindingsecurely in place (stitch width selectlor at 5)and stit. Adjus' presser foot pressure ifnecessary, to accommodate the thickness ofthe blanket.

58

DarningWith some kill you can easily and quickly perform all types of darning on your mactine Forthis purpose you can selectively use I tihe genterdl purpose presser foot 'r 2 the darningand embroidery foot.

I With General Purpose Presser Foot

Frst of .ll set p eusure at D (rNote L p( I Stitch Pattern Selectors: AKand stitc length it-qulaitr ai 0 IMMI Ný,, Stitch Width Selector: 3attach beed to' c I plate to nourh bed In Stitch Length: 0palate of req or Io lroot Plate. Feed Cover Plate

T iin rto qqod dq,, from irea, to be • 0, ti1 Presser Foot: General Purposef0osi in wor" uretor I*-dt e rito aiil t r• .... Presser Foot Pressure: Dial Setting D,,-r loot t, attuloe hc roeedie thretid I ...I old noodle thiear•loloely with ht t hortntarn hlnd wheer t1oNait! vt>u This wvill itro>bobbin tiread tirwiher with too0i of roerdthreadl op though ohbro- no'd bhoth thrieaei!nd, drill lower into Lbrkc.

Outline opening to be darned with runningstitdies about ", Incn (6 mm, from edge forreinforce/ment. Sittdi across operIng, nmolvingjtabr.c at a slight angle to and fro needle.

Run machine at modera'e speed antd guidefabric with a steady continuou•, movefet.Slow movement of fabric will produce a shortstitch; more rapid movement lengthens thestitch.

Fairly long stitches are best for kni' and tri-cot fabrics so that the darned area remainssmooth and flexible. Short stitches arefor cottons and linens as they upproxis'?teweave to the fabric.

After completion of domiinc work, reset tres-sure to normnal sethtag

2. With Darning and Embroidery Fool

Ihe s*.tturais o! th•e rh,o1•Tr, fo~r thrs type ofhot<irgllan reý dsccriibod or! padq 74

59

The seam guide aids in attaining uniformity of seam widthwhen extra control is needed. It provides for stitching to bespaced at any distance between V. to 1/4 inches (3 - 30 rminfrom the edge of the fabric. It is secured to the bed of the ma-chine in either of the threaded holes to the right of the slidePlate.

Applications: Seams, blindstitdiing, straight stitching anddecorative stitching.

Straight Seams

fhbri s Place pins with points toward seamedges so they nip into fabric at stitching line.

Stitch Pattern Selectors* AX The hugcer] stratigh-t-sb Ict presser toot wjilSUtldWrdth Selector: 3 ride, hfely over the pin points Guide fabricStitch Length: 1-4 mm depending on edues lightly against guide while stitching.

fabricStraight SUkt Throat Plate and

Presser Foot, orGeneral Purpose Throat Plate and

Presser FootSeam Guide

Curved SeamsCurv ed vanam requidre additionalI treatmentri

To guide seam stit din t straight and parallel in handling.to the edge of the fabric, adjust and align A shorter stitch will provide greater elasti-the seam guide for proper seam width, (ity and strength.

Pin seam edges and basle if necessary. Hand Set the sWant uide at an angle so that thebasting can be eliminated on easy-to-handle end closest to the needle acts as a guide.

60

i60

Blindstitch Hems

Stitch Pattern Selectors: BOStitch Width Selector: 2-5 Basing Cuide I meStitch Length: I--2 mmThroat Plate: General PurposePresser Foot: General PurposeSeam Guide

Ittilld t.'(filir prI [t' oh do, I(1r10 it mil

hifid ewixill' It iK ellualt i'111iiii ll'iq

it oi"il 'S. h':Iý F 1n''b"li u~ -r ' ,0t" l '11 I- t i(e , , t , l I F ,,l 0 d)

) r i ý! ie I ]Io t r,; I it t lii d SI) 1 • i *l

Mork turn and P esS herrM ii the ruqal wa;Place a bast.lq mgtlde tine npproximately "tf n he] m ]i¼ linch 16 emir) frrnn the top of the heml rlIpe ""'p ,"•> I F the" SotPlace hem edge (to%,r tile iced of the nladil:nQc, trl, i t P.t, d i the fold ligainstturrning bill of fibrit to thei 1±. a of Pastinuand thus t toat•qt a sloft old

Adjust s alii duldi over thi riqht toe <if the "'tIh f i .ut* t itt• t r{ 01)l* 1 i1lTlIJ/ •freS[l >prlý'' 'o Urt il ;L rests n 'xt toi the, Soft fold ii

Top Stitchingi" iv ll l 'l"I q 11'l pdiC' "Ill or III'l

-,,• ¼ gt i ' I * vt r lotI ticU

Wt'll l rfIl t l', ill iwl p l, o I jil- ( tlhe rows

61

The zippr Foot

This loot has been designed to facilitate the placing of stilch-ing close to a raised edge. The hinged feature of this footensures even feeding over pins, heavy layers of fabric orcross seams. It is attached to the mactine in place of theregular presser foot and can be adjusted to either the rightor left side of the needle. Straight or zig-zag stiltc settingscan be used.

Applications: Zipper insertion, corded seams, tubular weltingand slip cover welting.

Zipper Insertion

Stitdh Pattern Selectors: AKStich Width Selector: 3Throat Plate: General Purpose or

Straight StitchZipper Foot

Many different types of zippers are available Secure the zipper fool to the presser bar asfor everything you sew There are several you would the regular presser foot. Adjust-satisfactory methods for insertion. Detailed inent to the right or left of the needle issewing instructions are included in the zipper moude by loosening the thumb screw at thepackage. For any method used, the zipper back of the foot. Check the position of thefoot enables you to form an even line of foot by lowering the needle into the sidestitduing close to the zipper, notch of the foot, making sure it clears the

When the zipper is to the right of the needle, foot. Lods into position by tightening theadjust the zipper ft to the rgt of the needle. thumb screw.adjust the zipper foot to the left of the needle.

When the zipper is to the left of the needle,adjust the zipper foot to the right of theneedle.

62

Procedure for Inserting aZipper Into a Skirt

Machine baste the placketopening of the skirt andpress this seam open. Attachthe zipper foot to the machineand position it to the right ofthe needle. Open the zipper.Place the. ziponer face down onthe seem allowance with theedge of the teeth at the seamline. Turn the back seam allo-wance away from the bodyof the skirt, Stitch the zippertape to the seam allowance.

Adjust the foot to the left ofthie needle. Close the 7ipper

arid turn it Lice up, Smoothback the seam allowance atthe edge of the zipper. Topstitch it to the tape close tothe folded edge.

Turn zipper face down. Turnwork to right side and tiin

in place. Adjust the foot tothe right of the needle. Stitch ......a>" It lower end of thezipt)er and up to the waist- H.. . .

1!m•. Ron•ove bastingH

63

Corded Seams

Stitch Pattern Selectors: AKStitch Width Selector: 3

ia I cnnd coirnus n a v ari, t> If •,os anld Throat Plate: General Purpose or,lheo ctiktoed with ai himly u ovn fabi•c, Straight StitchnoakO a woltion( that, I, ai (.ontO>I~tVe 50400 Zipper Foothfnish for .hildrens utlotihs, bloutv;, pillowstipst tinoo Mt .eft-C, 11.,s wtoq is preparedIlk OdMilltO and Qhc11 IA~lhOd lilt) [h ti~leien.

('U{ I~t •!1 [) il t-i~cr scam

To make the welting:

Cut litas I v[I of >dl I•: o!

the Ordsg I, APS12

30 vinlll] Setw %hips* WOgcthle

hi'm dnoilo P's.t>h

rd s:ilr Qho',s sreptr' andadjust 1tppel toot t0 theleftoIf 1 or0 n"W 010 •t Mt

as'drfip ho L[ttower orio ntfHot SJtioil 1],,e In th} [ I• 'Ed,

oRd 01i] '4> 1} f l l'0 tu'''t Cs:riappytn ihi11h >I isjti toos~

a tti >+ l o n( oh ih(Jhdv hnrl4 r• , bd~than k"l P!/ju lap , s,,wing

To stitch welting into seam:

W1 It Si teoirg tIto, Wtohrvtg::!" 5011 theý ?ippor loot1

1, ''411,ted to theZ ti, e o-d III i e ,, thatt'C bulk ot the uKti or wI'1 Iullto the het

AttKch the weltiirc to theri•ht ostie oA a ingled Slam

vdtqe, uoeftih the ,aov s!ilelengtith usedt t, InoKe thro W('tlung. Guide IIhe toot text tothe I.bt cor d ht d not crowd

thace the attached We•tingOver the smeond seiani edge,and pun or bttste together.

Keep (ise first stitchineguprvd osta.ns a guode andpoes sn the pseam underthe eedle. Statch this timepushing ihe cod hard againstthes foot,

This method produces evenlyjoirnei seam edges and tight-ly set welting. v

Curved scares are corded aseasily as Straig ht sean'Is, ex-Vcept that a shorter stitchlength is used, Since the seamnallowance of the welting isbias, it is not difficult toshape it to the seam.

65

Tim Nii¸ o Hwi n:

T'ie n irt w hemmer forms and stitches a perfectly turnedh om v ithoui basting or pressing.Applications: Fine hems, edging ruffles, hemming with lace,h min-nd seanis and lingerie finishes.

HemmingCrease a double V/ inch (1i mm ftoI alongthe edge of the fabric to I f( irro a. Ildcethe fabric under the foot L,,v i ae iot andstitch the creased told for s <<era st': ties. Stlt& Pattern Selectors: AKHold the thread ends with the l it ind and SUtcd Width Selector: 3guide the raw fabric edge in rot, of the Throat Plate: Straight Stitchhemmer evenly into the st roll. Nanow HemmerSew slowly, still hcldin lifre, e "s untilthe hem is well started.

Soft fabrics will enter tat scrt i t, ;t withthe foot down; firm, cri-4 Aite-i Is ith thefoot raised. Even feedin7 is cssq liial o goodhemming. The same width of fat tio vust be Hemmed Seamskept in the scroll of the [e Umil _t a times. A hemmed seam is applied where a fineA little practice will result in p rKc( ly for- narrow seam is appropriate, Allow a scantmed hems. t/4 inch (8 Ilml) sealn allowance. With both

sides of fabric together, place upper layerapprox. 'Is inch (4 iamm to left of lower layerInsert two fabric edges into hommer andproceed as for plain hem.

66

Decorative HemsIf you use the henmmer foot and choose azig-zag Stitch pattern, you can turn and deco-rate a narrow hem in a single operation.

This time-saving finish is especially suited toruffle edges, aprons and lingerie finishes.

Stitch Pattern Selectors:Any basic pattern

Stitch Width Selector: 2-5Throat Plate: General PurposeNarrow Hemmer

Follow same steps as for plain hems.

Hemming with Lace

Stitch Pattern Selectors: DLStitch Wldth Selectcr: 3Throat Plate: General PurposeNarrow Hemmer

Lace Applied Over Hem

Fold and start the hem in the usual way.Starting about I inch (25 mm) down from theend of the lace, place the salvage under theneedle and lower needle to hold lace firmly.Raise the foot slightly and slip the laceunder the back portion of the foot, withoutdisturbing the position of the fabric. Stitchslowly, guiding the fabrr with the rght Z

hand, the lace with the le t, Take care notto stretch the lace.

Lace Applied Under HemWhen using lace underneath the fold of ahem, the procedure is th same as whenmaking a hemmed seam. Slip the lace infrom the left as you would the second pieceof fabric. This method is used where a neatfinish is desired on both sides of material.

67

Bin der

b

a = Scroll for unfolded bindingab = Slot for folded bias tape

c = Adjusting lugd = Guide pins

Th> hinder is used to applyl contnoercial htndtinq ai well Ussri-flic h~os h,.an unfinishededge, The, colorful trimnuon is attractive 'stun appii>d to duildlrens tlothes. apr'ons, cult•insetc. It is d practital hrnish for scam edges,, 'ha t ra n wid tor indkinu bhind se.mS Straightstitcl, plmai zztg-vc or declorati'v zltzag s ttings con he used.

Cmo binding diagonally to form a long pointCommercial 1,nding is inserted ftonm the

Stitch Pattern Selectors: Any settings right into the slot for folded bia, tape of theStitch Width Selector: 2-5 scroll Unfolded bias Wo/s indi f24 mn)m wideThroat Plate: General Purpose is inserted into the opentng for unfoldedBTnder Foot binding at the end of the scroll.

68

I OIT, w 1w ,p nw j h ý1ý* 1o a ¶1r 1, "! i

lnsdd (dn'.'u As

1 n '1 5, tnam Iw hdI II!h

a it, , -, of i hV S "1 ,iti r•, K,( en o q t! .f e :t h

Oulsid Curves

ita> dol .<> n d lh idt I;-I\Siro t >,

I.,d:II 't ak< 'n a" trio <roll "-it, j' ý 1!: i ' trl e nl•)• (" , K

f4 Preser Foot For Overedged Seams (Stretch Stitch)

The overedged seam is particularly appropriate for use inconstruction of garments made of knit stretch or elasticizedfabric. When using the spec al disc No. 22 together which theoveredged presser foot, seams that stretch with the labric

Thread Guide can be joined and finished in one operation.

Make a test sample first to determine theStitch Pattern Selectors. suitability of an overedged seam in the con-

C - Special ony struction of your garment. Be sure to dupli-Stitch Width Selector 5cate the gra n of your garment in your test.

Adjust stitch length, pressure and threadStitch Length: Up to IS ra tension accordingly. Cut and fit garment inPresser Foot Pressure. Light, 2-3 the regular way, using an approx. '/, inch

(15 mm) seam allowance. Baste fitted seamnSpecial Disc: No. 22 line,Throat Plate: General Purpose Trim seam edges evenly to 'It inch (6 mm)Presser Foot for Ove edged Seams from seam line basting. Place trimmed seam

under the presser foot so that the bulk of thework falls to the left and the seam edge tothe right under the presser foot thread guide(see illustration in left top corner).Stitch, guiding fabric up to the inside edgeof the thread guide so that the straightstitches fall on the seam line and the zig-zagstitches over the seam edge,

70

The Ruffier

b7T1 Otadw ornt offers a simple aad Effe-ti.ezai .I rla", gathered ano pl• ted ruffle

ftPil4s mnil Li made separately or ;i~dd a!)d adPDYird at I'e same time. The ruffier I; a!- dadiledi to it e mahdirie in place of th, regular

Pre.rmser foot a,"d is used with a stlairqlt stit,-ot Inrg Orie

Tlie Yuffl.nr blade and the sepflrair blade @ar( of blue stdel and hold the m.e itl to beptl~hend hetween them. The rulf.ing b ad&f)r;ns he gathers or pleats by carrylng thefab ic to tif needle according to lip, spaciniand fullness r which the ruttler Is .e!tuste .The spa re tr guide is slotted to tlaide sea-pedqes evenly and to separate the Tuffle strip h g fIrom tht material to which the *Jlf!e is attadicd. a = Prtsser Biar Seat

b = Arm Forkc = Adjusting Leverd = Adjus'ing Fingere = Adjusaro. Screwi Separitor Guide

g Ruffling Eladeh = Separator Blade

To Attach The RufflerRaise needle to its hiighest point. Attach ruff- Sh11& Pattern Selectors: AKler to machine n place of regular presserfoot. locating ruffler on presser bar w th fork Stltch Width Selector: 3arm over need e Clamp screw. Securely Throat Plate: Straight Stichtighten both presser bar and needle clampscrews Ruffler

To Adjust The Ruffler 2. The adjusting finger is used only for plea-ting and affects the width of the pleat. It isI. The adjusting lever sets the tffter for thrown out of action by turning it out of

gathers or pleat The number I space con act with the adjusting screw.setting is for gathers and p aces fullnessat every stitch, Numbers 6 and 12 are 3. The adjusting screw regulates the fullnessspace settings for pleats, so ciig them 6 of gathers or pleats. When turned inwardor 12 stitches apart The s a is for straight to its limit with the adjusting finger institching and is used who.r grouping p ace, the attachment is set for its deepestgathers or pleats. pleat. When turned outward to its limit,

with the adjusting finger out of action, theruffler gives only a hint of fullness.

71

Gathering

T S't ( u d I;oIi q le e [II r ,n a ,, Is r iuv!rii i I45 di~ sltoof finqer I04 I! I 1 of"I I l:1. .il'u I Ir lltO , ill Ioid [ iOkm t of flL .I I 4 11' d

sh~~, andIi!{ iot* Wd)ht leloph tý ";ilt)"( c ) tu ]1

, ,ls riffle fuInn s SIt a ;IV. ISi I [t I OW i 0ua] ,tnii ol full.

'55S WOt 4'6614 00i rltli 4 il(p4 I t I*, 1no'>rttaching Frill- stitch trio' 10I hs tiH

.IP!1 ik e, lruffte tulle (l, ir v it>

sRigh fiofer Itun to tfiacihtv ,ie hil

Ii hoo t i oldo t tild l [

a Rutting Matrialt

- >t, * Attaching FrillsIrl, ;t 'rip to bie rqntlied~ iel woen blue h>

, 1,44 nil (hf< igh the4 In4-1 lo irisltr qulej

a umhtgial Material toIc<½'eerser- i II >le[( -Ind PII (oA mo- 14444

=Gairravat Preepecl as lior plain4 galt> ring

Right sides1 of fnnri<- are placed ti fle'tIewhewn Ifh ear ;4,1' i IPill to thne i'> 'to

72

PleatingYKI u n h 04 to c-om pn sea A k a u( >r !he <r'>sq'tpy iroo Notefor N plemt <'Hwr 6 mo 12 trt), aprl te >4V'tqjs plemts (.nfoed tab,>>» Wiitch,

5ulc tA ýA4 at 1 of~ Lnov! And MA ar Who, q20d su,rl A doew N swat) adite(I 54 ad~ 54m tOy tinward ft 4 its> mnýrutt, 'oft lakro; lq Iis rxt to th~e IrUfff*r plado

St hhf r~fI sA1 ho !Idd piatcs tHie Croup Pleadinqf~ .m , ! ~ p , Ikl(: iinfl >,,ft4 thoft Id o ptn :i,, <fll sK4chir-o

,-pm," the' fleas> Pt, 144f' Arah [mu6 alio6 "1 0 I P-m kt

0- aO m NO N¾)m p-W o>.ur- qmp4 o,-ow dIs' ty roIofl alo

44 Ihteov 4' '1tO her of sthrfies

73

Darning and Embroidery Foot

'Thi, )(1r . .i(..,. Is i ait] t') all who cid ,ire pe fecto' i t,corniaq am ut *1 roids- wor..k, The fo~ot firmly i-ni1(

hoc faiici'u mad r- enters anid rises from lh~e *'nri kwbilc uL' itk -mhr ttle I.ne of design to Iet followedi

-it ragge I edges from area ao ie ddrned."Jo i •ection can be 'ixed into hoo)lp. tilt

Stitch Pattern Selectors: AY ! s a t absolutely necessaly,

SUtit Width Selector: 3 'It li fle d over plate liul cat ne beod in

Stitch Length: Less than I mim paf, :4 regular thloat plate.

Feed Cover Plate 1 "t d Irning and eatbroidery foit on ps-at r i~ .Jlb li~ltng finger over n'erlle ciaimp

Daining and Embroidery Foot r r t

ice lurther steps of this sef mi opciatior.i e thl satel(, as fll (fda111rninj tiln geterAiirpot se presser toot free to page 59)

UIln adhine at. moderate speeon ntd gutide?bri w il ti d a steady Continuous tlovullwttt,

*imw movement ot tabric will prodnee ahort stitch; more rapid rmovemient length(en

is

*we stitch.

Fairly long stitdces are best for knit and tri-' t Fabrics; short stitches are best for cottons:

!ad linens as they approximate to the weavef fabric.

74

Free Motion Work Wth Embroidery Hoop

Stitch Pattern Selectors: DLStitch Width Selector: 2-5Sttch Length: Fine (less than I ram)

Feed Cover PlatePresser Foot: None

Script monograms and embroidery can be hand wheel toward you and drew bobbineffectively accomplished with the zig-zag thread up through fabric. Hold both threadstitch when the tree motion principle is em- ends and start stitching.ployed. Move hoop slowly, following outline of de-A test sample should always be made before sign. Maintain an even rate of speed so thatproceeding with the actual woik to deter- stitches are uniformly ipaced.mine stitch setlting and spacing. Some fabrics Slow movement of hoop reoduces a closemay require addition of an underlay of crisp satin stitch; more rapid movement lengthenslawn and organdie. the stitch and resuets in an open effect.

Trace or mark design on right side of fabric. Free motion work can also be done with thePlace work in embroidery hoop large enough darning and embroidery foot. This foot isto encompass entire design. Be sure fabric is particularly suited for stitching smooth heavyhold taut. Position work under needle and fabrics since it assists in controlling the stitchlower presser bar to engage tension. Turn as well as in a, proper guiding of the fabric.

75

Applications of t vCylinder Bed Feature

76

76

7577

V ,

/

-- --- --

- - -- - -- - -- -

Casng For~four Sowing Machine

Your sewing machine is a fine yet sturdy precision instrumentand it will serve you perfectly for miany years if you take

a few simple steps to keep it in good working condition.How often you will need to clean, oil and lubricate the ma-chine will depend on how often you use it and where youkeep it. The following general guidelines aSSUMe that YOU

will be sewing two or three trios a week. But if you use themactine continuously, clean and oil it daily, Or, if you keep

Every Week Or So -

with a soft cloth, clean:

a, Tension discs

b. Take-up lever and *hreac guides

c. Presser bar and neec.!1Ž bar

d. Bobbin case (for instructions on removal,see page 81)Mactine surface

If necessary, dampen the cloth to clean themactine surface. Do nat use detergents.

With the lint brush that comes with your-d mactine, clean:

f e. Feed dog

I. Bearing surface for throat plate

rq Rotating hook (area uinder throat plate andslide plate)

After each cleanuill aiply a drop (but nomore, than a droo) of SINGER* oil to thehook raceway (gi, Thec Pew a line of stitch-ting on a scrcap of mate ial to remove exces-sive oil

To Remove And Replace Bobbin Case

To clean hook raceway, remove bobbin caseas follows:Open slide plate nd remove bobbin andthroat plate.

Unlock bobbin caso by liftitig and pullingholder to right as shown.

Remove bobbin case from machine.

Remove all lint, fluff, loose thread ends orany other foreign matter by means of lintbrush.

Replace bobbin case so that groove under 4tension spring fits on hook raceway and forkof bobbin case straddles positioning fingerA.

N

Push bobbin case holder to left as shown>un,il it snaps uown into lock position.

Replace bobbin am. throat plate and closeslide plate.

% 8

4 4

•jl'-I

9•

it • i•*1 ,.•,F . .• • i i "

62

Every Few Months -

Clean and ol the machine thoroughly, Use -over (and cylider cover), The motorSINGER oils and SINGER lubricants only, requires no lubrication. Oiling of the mo-which are availalhe for purchase at your tor can result in its burning out.SINGER SEWING CENTRE Both are e-xtraquality products, especially prepared for After oiling sew line ec stsrfungon a scrapsewing machines of material to remove excess oil.

* Clean And Oil Area Behind Face Plate If the machine is to be stored away for anClean and apply a drop of SINGER oil to indefinite period of time. a thorough brush-each place shown You will find this cleaning to remove all traces of lint andeasier to do if you remove the top cover fluff, followed by swabbing of all exposedfirst parts with a lint free brush saturated with

SINGER oil, is necessary to protect against* Also, apply a drop of oil to the hook rust,

raceway.

" Clean And Oil Top Of MachineAll spats to be oiled are shown in theillustration. Do not oil gears, but apply asmall amount of SINGER lubricant tothem as indicated To Remove And Replace Top Cover

* Clean And Oil Bottom O Machine 8,f(.r Move take-up lever to ifs lowest point Re-to illustration on page 841, Move sarew A n lifts rigt hand BenTilt machine back and remove screw B, move screwl A and lift right hand end ofbeing careful not to lose washer, and cover slightly and slide toward left and offremove bottom cover from underside of the mnachine as shown on illustration below.machine. In case of class 670 machine, also Replace cover by positioning it on top ofremove screw C and cylinder cover Clean mahine with a slight overhang on the leftand oil each of the places indicated. Gears sidt, slide cover to the right unfil it locksare to be lubricated only. Replace bottom r "iaute Replace and tighten screw A.

A

83

Class 650 Ma&in.,

Class 670 Wiaddso

84D

Remember to" Position needle out of fabric when making

stitch width and stitch pattern adjust-ments.

" Clean your machine periodically, espe-cially the bobbin case and hook racewayareas,

* Use your Instruction Book. It was writtento explain the most efficient way to ope-rate and use your versatile SINGER sew-ing machine.

Sewing Difficulties?Keep your machine in good working condi-tion by following the easy at-home-care stepsoutlined in this Instruction Book, and it willserve you perfectly for many years.

The non-observance of some details maylead to thread breakages. In such a casecheck:" Is the machine properly threaded?

* Is the spool positioned correctly? Is itsecurely tightened by the correct threadlead-off so thnt the thread can unwindfreely from the spooiW

" Is a Catalmogwt (5IXl needle correctly in-serted and securely tightened in theneedle clamp (with the long groove to.ward you)?

* Is the needle free of damages?*Is the thread suitable for the size of the

needle?" Is the needle-thread tension too tight?* Is the thread flee from knots?" Is Ihe bobbin-case and hook raceway

areoa frt of lint and loose !tread ends?

85

Key Word Index

Aupphiirofs Cylinlder IP>. UitS I A Dt . 56

Applihqmu 4,49 Dv or a Iyve -f . . . . . . 0

i I t11t11 TIt.,s DtVC 01dlit %C Stit (Jd[I I[ Plsd[ I 'd dot~r t(

briln.,n Se,, inq 1in 5 3 E;n t1 r it

aned i11 ',mdk F I EinnbtnnOn 74nh \\ rk 74

I > n,,, 1 nreie \ln , n I -jlibiTlhd, v %\oik 73

[G •, (~ d h]{. ýt Pla4

ut \I$1( Ii M ,ilon \ oiDk i% l fl L',l Trv i i no

IO ; m !I hut , I I [ 54

u andl S i i I it:

,, a - l! 00

I) l ýtl ý io

6th

66611111 fin6

II %!

lie Vw 1 h< l

B I t

0 1 14' .1

Z'I:P~al '9 iCl F 15L:ciIo ,11

Page PaePresser Foot for Overedged Seam. Lace 52

(Stretch Stitih . 70 Lace Tape .. 6Presser Foot Pressure Zipper 62

Settings and Adjustments .. .. 15 S,.ing D:f c ltulties... 85Principal Parts of Machine 4, 5 Sewing Light, Removal and ReplacementRegulating the Thread Tensions 27 of Light Bulb . 7Removal and Replacement of Special Purpose Foot . 46

Light Bulb .,. . . . . . . . . 7 Spool I folder . . . . . . . . 17Needle ... . 16 Stitch Length Regul,or 12Presser Foot . 14 Stitnh Pattern Selectors . t0Special Disc . . . . . . . 33

Throat Plate 14 Stitch Width Selector . I1

Reverse Stitching ..... 12 Straight StitchingEquipment 22Ruffler .. 71 Setting .. . . 22

Satin Stitching Stitch Length ... . 12Tension Adjustment .. 31 Sewing a Seam ... 24Stitch Length Adjustment .. 3.. With Two Needles . 36

Scalloping . 57 Straight Sti ch Presser Foot 13, 22Seams Stretch Stitch ..... .. 70

Corded Seams .... 64 ThreadingCurved Serms . 60 BobbinCDecorative Stitwding . . 32 Sin N pe 20Flat Felled Seams .. ... wo Needles . .. . 36Litngerie Seams .. 5.. 36

W th Built-in Needfle Threadet . 21Overedgled Seams . .... . 70

Practical Stitching . . . .32 Treadle Drive.. .... ... 8Seaming Sheers .. . ... . 51 Connection of Sewing Light .. . 9Seams in Knit Fabrics .. . 55 Replacement of Belt ... 9Straight Seams .... ... 22. 60 Selective Motor and Treadle Driv. 9Zig-Zag Stitching .... 29 Throat Plates . 13

Seam Finishes 55 Removal and Replacement .. 4. . 14Decorative Itlems .,... 67 Two NeedlesHIemmed Seams ... 66 Basic Pattern Stitching .. ,. 37

-lemming with Lace . . .. 67 Insertion . ..... .. .. 36Scam Guide 60 Straight Stitching ..... . 37Settings Threading .... 36

Needle Position .. 22, 30 Upper Threading . 20Needle Thread Tension ..... 15, 27 Welting ..... . 64Presser Foot Pressure . ...... 15 Zig-Zag StitchingStitch Length ... . 12 Adjusting Stitch Length ... .. I1Stitch Pattern. .... 10 Adjusting Stitch Width .. .. 30Stitch Width It Equipment . 29

Sewing of Settings .... 30Buttons 53 With Two Needles 37Cord .. .. 52 Zipper Foot . . . . . . . .. . 62Elastic .. 58 Zipper Insertion ... . 62

87