slices of sydney

a t a s t e o f o u r v i l l a g e s

s l i c e s o f s y d n e y

1Slices of Sydney makes up a ten course experiential meal, a degustation. Taste the distinct flavours of each village. A bus, train and cycle network crisscrosses the city, and so the order in which your courses are served is up to you. Be it the design-skewed sheen of Surry Hills; the indie scent of

Newtown; the modern tribalism relished in Redfern or the nonstop liberal heat of Kings Cross, each village will encourage you to find a new dimension

only discoverable through experience.

Sydney is a city of villages. Each community radiates a unique

essence. Taste the culture and

take away a slice of Sydney.

ClovEr MoorE MP, lord Mayor of

SydnEy

2Events & festivals to watch for while in SydneyJ A N U A R Y A P R I L

Sydney Festival sydneyfestival.org.au

Sydney Chinese New Year Festival cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/CNY

Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras mardigras.org.au

Tropfest tropfest.com

M A Y A U G U S T

Sydney Writers Festival swf.org.au

Sydney Film Festival sff.org.au

Vivid Sydney vividsydney.com

S E P T E M B E R D E C E M B E R

Sydney Childrens Festival sydneychildrensfestival.com

Art & About cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/artandabout

Biennale biennaleofsydney.com.au

Crave Sydney International Food Festival cravesydney.com

Sydney Fringe Festival thesydneyfringe.com.au

Sydney Christmas & New Year Celebrations cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/Christmas cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/nye

Calendar of major events

3P U B L I C T R A N S P o R T

Trains, buses and ferries are all interconnected, so you can hop between villages speedily. Sydneys villages are well serviced by public transport trains, buses or both and the inner city also has Light Rail and Monorail systems. Multi-trip bus tickets are available from most newsagencies, convenience stores and kiosks around the city. Look for retailers displaying MyZone or PrePay signage. Most bus trips require a PrePay ticket. For more information, call the free Transport Infoline on 131 500 or visit 131500.com.

T A x I S

Taxis are available when the yellow light is on and change over time is at 3pm, and 3am, when flagging one down is a little trickier. There are a range of taxi companies operating in Sydney.

Getting around

town

B I C Y C L I N G

Major connecting routes now consider the modern cyclist. Visit cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/cycling for more information including route maps. You can also hire bikes to explore the city independently or with a tour.

S h o P P I N G T I M E S

Most shops, department stores and shopping centres are open from around 10am5pm Monday to Saturday and increasingly on Sunday. Late night shopping usually occurs on Thursday evenings, with many stores and shopping centres open until 9 or 10pm. Occasionally some shops will be closed on Mondays.

I N A N E M E R G E N C Y

Dial 000 for 24-hour emergency services (fire, police and ambulance) from any telephone. Police assistance line: 131 444.

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Surry Hills

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The original home to Sydneys rag trade, Surry Hills has evolved into a premier design village of crisp artisan concepts. Swells of coffee complement the woody designs of contemporary furniture and natural furnishings. The craft-based networks of Surry Hills constantly participate in Sydneys cultural evolution with a gentle eye on the global future of design.

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Stride with fervour & dress without rulesw o R D o N T h E S T R E E T

Cycleway on Bourke street The price of real estate Got a dolla?

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T Y P I C A L L o C A L

Typically atypical, Surry Hills locals are a motley cast of young professionals, creative types and radiant originals from post-war migrations of Greek and Italian people. With a median age of 32, this diverse suburb attracts animated humans who stride with fervour, dress without rules and have forged a very good work/play balance. They are third generation shoemakers, eco shop owners, twenty something graphic designers and Kylie Kwong.

D E F I N I N G E x P E R I E N C E

Poking around in village shops for a piece of contemporary furniture, lining up outside a restaurant that takes no bookings and dominating iPod wars at the pub.

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Art and design talent Rag trade roots Surry Hills Markets first

Saturday of every month Beer gardens Cheap steak nights Niche cuisines and fusions Community veggie gardens Dog friendly atmosphere

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In 1985 expressionist Brett Whiteley built a studio and private dwelling in an old T-shirt factory on Raper Street. The chaos and atmosphere have been preserved as a free museum. The entrance is tucked in an alley and marked by a tiny version of Almost Once, a sculpture featuring two redhead matchsticks.

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A letterbox replica of the church and former home of eccentric artist Madame Lash on Cleveland Street

T A S T E

Freshly baked organic spelt sourdough

S M E L L

The smell of fresh coffees and paninis in the air

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Pedal down Bourke Street cycleway with a basket full of produce

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Dog/owner lookalikes

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Ironic knitted sweaters from second hand shops

A F T E R D A R K

Buzzing on Crown and Bourke Streets, and Cleveland between Elizabeth and Crown

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Paddington

Paddington is bound by a love of heritage homes, leafy residential streets and flagship designer boutiques. Rows of chalky pastel terraces house Sydneys emerging and established sartorial scene. In Paddington artisans make chocolate and underwear by hand and have style that transcends seasonal fashions.

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Sophisticated class with considered quirksw o R D o N T h E S T R E E T

Is that an Akira? Yummy mummies 40km speed limit on back streets

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Paddington locals are a sophisticated class with considered quirks. They are business minded innovators in art and fashion and young families who eat well, dress well and are proud of the heritage of their village.


Walking to the tailor and completing the outfit at the shoemaker and milliner across the street.

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Paddington Markets Saturdays Boutique shopping Launch pad for emerging

fashion talent Art galleries The Royal Hotel, the oldest

in the village One of the earliest settled

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Ex-convict entrepreneur and gin distiller Robert Cooper named Paddington after a London borough and built Juniper Hall in the early 1820s, Paddingtons oldest home.

Paddington Markets, Sydneys longest running community market, started in 1973 as a meeting ground for a handful of artists and designers to mingle, sell their wares and discuss the Vietnam War. Since then it has evolved into a thriving weekend market and a platform for an impressive cast of Australian design talent including Lisa Ho and Dinosaur Designs.

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The sunken water garden at architectural urban park Paddington Reservoir Gardens

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Hand-made chocolate bits on William Street

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An arthouse film at Chauvel Cinema

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A bespoke accessory from a flagship designer store

A F T E R D A R K

Pubs and venues on Oxford St near South Dowling St (Three Saints Square)

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newtown

On King Street you can dine on cuisine from any nation, listen to music of any genre, dress in the style of any decade and hold anyones hand you like. Find vegan foods, indie music, street art and retro fashion circuits within this warm cluster of workers cottages, warehouse bookshops, record stores and independent retailers. Newtown is a contemporary bohemia where dreamers and lovers wander between salty pub bistros, laneway festivals and fruity street performances.

Free Wi-fi

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friendly free thinkers who work outside the systemw o R D o N T h E S T R E E T

Its impossible to parkKing Street trafficPub renovationsWhere all the squatters went

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Newtown locals are friendly free thinkers who work outside the system. Their customised realities and independent businesses afford them great happiness. The bulk of Newtowns 14000 residents are well educated, live in share housing but have a loyalty to Newtown and may never leave. They are students, professionals, screen printers, healers and guitarists who are friendly and like to participate in free eco street festivals.


A sneeze in a dusty bookshop, an in-store gig in a record shop and a local art show.

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Buzzing local pride Wide variety of food options Distinct subcultures Unpretentious Broad cultural appeal Pop-up Newtown Markets Newtown FestivalNovember The Sydney Fringe Festival September

Credit for mural: I Have A Dream, Andrew Aiken and Juilee Pryor, 1991

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Music has always been at the heart and soul of Newtown. In 1923 words and music to Newtown is an Old Town (that I love) were published by A.F. Lenertz (best known for the lyrics I Love Aeroplane Jelly). In the 1980s John Kennedy celebrated local landmarks and characters with his single On King St Im A King and The Whitlams promote the local music scene with their hit Blow Up the Pokies. More recently John Jacobs created the Wheelie Bin Sound System. You can now make your own by placing a car stereo in a 600L wheelie bin or on the back of a bicycle.

Among Newtowns notable residents are Murray Cook, of the childrens performing group The Wiggles, and Mary Reibey (17771855) a pioneering entrepreneur whose portrait graces the $20 note.

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The giant I Have a Dream mural featuring Martin Luther King and the Aboriginal flag on King Street that was originally sponsored by local philanthropist Tony Spanos

T A S T E

The cuisine of any nation in the atlas

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The local pride

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Spot the distinctions between Newtown tribes from a King Street caf

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A cult film at a retro restaurant, or a busker

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A camel skin lamp

A F T E R D A R K

Find high energy, low lit hotspots anywhere, anytime

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Kings Crossdarlinghurst

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Kings Cross and Darlinghurst are gracious old places that have seen many faces. Towering art deco structures, former adult shops and tattoo parlours now foster a young art and dining scene. This densely populated landscape is radically authentic, story laden and stays awake all night. The hills and valleys of its urban cartography parallel the high lives and low times of its alternative history.

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Harmonious edit of gen ys, young couples, queer communities and eccentricsw o R D o N T h E S T R E E T

Oversexed, overpaid and over here Is that a man or a woman? You find this ugly, I find it lovely Why shes practically naked

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While aesthetically driven the people of Kings Cross and Darlinghurst are open to difference. The harmonious edit of gen Ys, young couples, queer communities and eccentrics are open-minded go-getters whose cosmopolitan lives are forced to overlap in the most populated slice of Sydney.


Hopping between bars on Burton Street before a caffeine hit at a 24-hour coffeehouse.

K N o w N F o R

Mardi GrasMarch Kings Cross Organic

Markets Saturdays Sydney Sustainable Markets,

Taylor Square Saturdays Carlotta, a transgender

showgirl, who was the inspiration for the film Priscilla Queen of the Desert.

Tropicana Cafe, birthplace of the Tropfest Short Film Festival

Sydneys red light district

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In 1927 a pistol license law with heavy jail terms saw Darlinghurst gangs arm themselves with razors. Darlinghursts notorious razor gangs were fronted by heavyweight and brothel Madame, Matilda Tilly Devine and documented in the book Razor by Larry Writer.

Australian writer Henry Lawson penned the poem One Hundred and Three in a sandstone cellblock of Darlinghurst Gaol. The site where he was held for drunkenness and non-payment of alimony is now open to students and the public as the National Art School.

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The brass plates in Macleay Street sidewalks that tell stories of the areas electric past

T A S T E

Vietnamese rolls or gourmet burgers

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The high turn over of coffee beans keeping the place awake

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Sample Sydneys young small bar scene

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The Wayside Chapel come alive with community activists and eccentrics with curious pets

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A local revision of the cosmopolitan cocktail

A F T E R D A R K

Alive on Burton Street, Victoria Street, Liverpool Street, Bayswater Road and Oxford Street

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Potts PointWoolloomooloo

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Potts Point and Woolloomooloo swoon you with their old and new architecture and melange of Italian delis, Japanese sake bars, New York-style cafes and wharf restaurants. This refined edit of notable food and drink sensations maintains a reputation as Sydneys cosmopolitan quarter for modern urbanites.

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young professionals, subtle vagrants and sophisticated baby boomers sit side by side

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The tourists Wagyu and the wharf Pie and peas at Harrys Theres Russell.

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Young professionals, subtle vagrants and sophisticated baby boomers sit side by side at local bus stops. They operate in private circles, are polite and keep to themselves. Restaurateurs, playwrights, art directors and doctors muse over their strong views on wine while couples shop for their friends childrens toys.


Coffee at the Parisian end of Macleay Street under oak trees and a wander down eclectic Challis Street.

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Sydneys piece of New York Cosmopolitan atmosphere The restaurants along the wharf Embarkation Park Harrys Caf de Wheels

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An elegant construction of the 1830s, Elizabeth Bay house complete with elegant oval saloon, sky-lit dome and curving staircase was used as a squat by artists, writers and poets between 1928 and 1935.

In a city where most lived in houses, in the early 1920s the residents of Potts Point lived in tiny flats or bed sits. The impetus for much of the precincts apartment building drew from the decline of the young male population in World War 1 and legacy of young women, who needed proximity to the city to work.

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Look up at the Art Deco buildings to find slices of Paris and New York

T A S T E

Raw Hiramasa kingfish carpaccio dishes at luxe alfresco dining spots

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Egyptian dukkah on Hunter Valley Labna cheese

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The sharp incline of McElhone stairway that runs from Woolloomooloo to Victoria Street

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The harbour between breaststrokes at Andrew Boy Charlton pool

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A designer toy for a friends baby

A F T E R D A R K

Hot on Macleay, Challis Avenue and Finger Wharf

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BROADWAYCINEMAS

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Glebe

Glebe is a feast of fresh air in verdant parklands, expansive water vistas, and eclectic shopping. The vitality and openness of its student population support the seemingly endless gathering of second hand bookshops, new age outlets, ethnic eateries, recycled fashion boutiques and Saturday markets on Glebe Point Road.

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locals sleep well with the karmic assurance that they cleaned up after their healthy dogw o R D o N T h E S T R E E T

Free WiFi at Foley Park wireless house Budget meals and beds Dinner, movie and gelato?

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Regardless of their profession as heritage architects, academics, baristas or nurses, Glebe dwellers love to walk. They are fun drinkers and talkers who sleep well with the karmic assurance that they cleaned up after their healthy dog that morning.


Picking up some literature from one of the many bookstores and reading the afternoon away at a cafe.

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Value for money meals Glebe Markets Saturday Abundance of bookshops Victorian architecture Glebe Foreshore Walk Glebe Street FairNovember Chatty cafes & lively pubs Alternative health

and well being

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The Sydney United Friendly Society Dispensary opened in January 1909. The health professionals of this voluntary initiative dispensed ointments, gargles, leeches, camel hair, poppy heads and chamomile flowers in the bottles and jars of patients. Two tables commemorate this precursor of modern health funds at 33 Glebe Point Road.

Glebe Point Roads tram system was active until the 1950s and originally the main transport line to connect an abattoir with the city.

Going to the pictures had an added dimension at The Glebe Moving Picture Show in 1910. Proprietor and Methodist, John Jack Law staged boxing exhibitions and vaudeville acts by Reckless Reggie before films at the 84 Glebe Point Road site. You can still catch a movie at Broadway.

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The elaborate facades and tessellated tile paths of matchbox terraces and stone gatehouses on Glebes architecture walk

T A S T E

The cuisine of three different continents in a single day

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Spring and Autumn engulf the lush landscape

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Spot the original Glebe caf that boasts 28 years of bad manors (sic)

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Bottle brush sway in waterside breeze from one of Jubilee Parks picnic sheds

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A recommended Australian non-fiction release from an independent bookseller

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Recline with wine in nooks on Glebe Point Road

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P Y DBU I L D I N G

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E XC E L L E N C EWAT E R LO OL I B R A RY

41

redfernWaterloo

0 400m

5 mins walk

Redfern and Waterloo combine their Aboriginal roots and working class history with modern tribalism. The unvarnished, industrial atmosphere of these neighbouring pockets has lured contemporary art circles, vintage/retro furniture restorers and slow food aficionados. The nostalgic flavour of this village is deep with respect for what has gone before.

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active lovers of change and reflect australias multi-ethnic populationw o R D o N T h E S T R E E T

The Block What produce is in season Redfern falls asleep early

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Redfern and Waterloo people are active lovers of change and reflect Australias multi-ethnic population. They operate with a DIY mentality and loyalty to the local economy, the original landowners the Cadigal people and you, if your ear is open.


Dealing direct with the farmer on a Saturday morning market spree before roaming the galleries with a Dandelion tea.

K N o w N F o R

Danks Street Local football team

The Rabbitohs Eveleigh Farmers Market Redfern Community

Markets in Redfern Park Contemporary, retro and

vintage furniture

Credit for mural: Pemulwuy Park Mural, James Simon and Danny Eastwood, 1995

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The Redfern Municipal Electric Light Station built in 1891 was Sydneys first supplier of electricity. In an era of dull gas street lamps, Redfern boasted electric versions and was literally the brightest place in Sydney. This power site was adaptively reused as the Rolling Stone Magazine headquarters and now houses antique dealer Martyn Cook.

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Handmade crafts from local makers at the Eveleigh Artisans Market at Carriageworks first Sunday of every month

T A S T E

Bacon and egg rolls and purple carrots fresh from the farm at weekend farmers markets

S M E L L

Change in the air

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Scamper between contemporary art exhibitions on George, Regent and Danks Streets

w A T C h

The Rabbitohs train in Redfern Park oval

B U Y

An iconic retro piece of furniture from the line up on Regent Street and Redfern Street

A F T E R D A R K

Find the hidden eateries scattered throughout

S Y D N EYT H E AT R E

S Y D N EY DA N C E C O. & BA N G A R R A

DA N C E T H E AT R E

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0 400m

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nTo The rocks

S Y D N EYT H E AT R E

S Y D N EY DA N C E C O. & BA N G A R R A

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Walsh BayMillers Point

Just past the great grey bridge, the heritage piers and charming backstreets of Walsh Bay resound with a world-class cultural rhythm. This art precinct of open-air sculpture galleries, modern theatre productions and dance initiatives is the heart of Sydneys performing arts scene.

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Eco-enthusiasts... Greening the Wharfw o R D o N T h E S T R E E T

Where to have post theatre drinks Bump into Cate Catching a daytime matinee Solar panels on the wharf

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The locals of Walsh Bay are eco-enthusiasts who practice what they preach by Greening the Wharf. Advertising, media and arts businesses are attracted to the villages creative edge.


Walking the wharves with eyes wide open.

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Sydney Writers FestivalMay Sydney Theatre Company Sydney Dance Company Bangarra Dance Theatre Harbourside dining Sandstone, cobblestone

& wharves Sculpture walk Biennale

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The two storey Federation Free Style wharves and their associated shore sheds were built to modernise and manage Sydneys waterfront after the outbreak of the Bubonic Plague in January 1900: the foreshore was awash with rubbish and rats. After a dormant period from the 60s to the 80s, the wharves were renovated to house star associations like Sydney Theatre Company and Bangarra Dance TheatreAustralias only national Aboriginal performing arts company.

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Local sandstone in watering holes like Hero of Waterloo, a gathering spot for the 1840s Garrison Troops of colonial days

T A S T E

A gourmet sandwich on a striped deck chair overlooking the harbour

S M E L L

The harbour breeze

D o

Find Brett Whiteleys towering Black Totem II and Jimmie Durhams head-turning Still Life With Stone and Car on the sculpture walk

w A T C h

The boats draw patterns in the harbour from a pier restaurant

B U Y

Tapas and watch the sun sink

A F T E R D A R K

Wonder at the flexibility of contemporary dancers

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I A N T H O R PE AQ UAT I CC E N T R E

53

PyrmontUltimo

L E G E N D

Monorail

Light Rail

Cycleway

Parks

Whats Hot

Pyrmonts industrial history unravels as you survey the panorama of wharves, woolstores, factories and golden sandstone under foot. This peninsular of casinos, fish markets, museums and IMAx movie theatres overlooks the ultramarine harbour and is home to a smooth dress up dining scene.

0 400m

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To UTS & TafE

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locals live simple high lives in flats, units or apartments, and journey to full time jobs...by foot, bus or boatw o R D o N T h E S T R E E T

Times are changing Award-winning Pirrama Park Out for breakfast lunch and dinner

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Locals live simple high lives in flats, units or apartments, and journey to full time jobs as managers, administrators and professionals by foot, bus or boat. In their late twenties to early fifties, the majority understand the need to rebalance the relationship of man and machine in a new age of diminishing resources.


An extended brunch and string of coffees at a creative outdoor eatery on Jones Bay Wharf.

K N o w N F o R

Pyrmont Festival May Growers Market at Pyrmont

Bay ParkSaturdays Australian National

Maritime Museum Sydney Fish Market Star City Casino Lyric Theatre

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Pyrmont was purchased by John Macarthur for a gallon of rum.

Pyrmonts yellowblock sandstone lies under foot and was used in building iconic Sydney buildings such as Sydney Town Hall on George Street and The Art Gallery of NSW. The quarries from which they were extracted were known locally as Paradise, Purgatory and Hellhole, in recognition of the difficulty of working the stone.

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w A T C h

Dog/owner lookalikes.

B U Y

Ironic knitted sweaters from second hand shops.

A F T E R D A R K

Buzzing on Crown Street, Bourke near Oxford and Cleveland between Elizabeth & Crown.

S E E

A science or design exhibition at The Powerhouse Museum

T A S T E

Oysters and champagne at the Sydney Fish Market

S M E L L

The yellowblock sandstone under foot at Union Square

D o

Roll the dice at Star City

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The uproar of wholesale fish auctions at 7am, a cool spectator sport

B U Y

An oriental rug

A F T E R D A R K

A musical at the Lyric Theatre

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M A R K E T C I T Y A N DPA D DY S M A R K E TS

H AY M A R K E T L I B R A RY

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G O L D E NT R E E


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H AY M A R K E T L I B R A RY

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capitolsquare

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59

ChinatownHaymarket

Everyday in Chinatown is a multi-Asian taste carnival. Opium dens and gambling lairs precede the modern microcosm of tea merchants, dumpling houses, neon food courts and Oriental food galleries. Follow your nose through this inner city labyrinth for exciting new tastes.

L E G E N D

Pedestrian Street

Parks

Whats Hot 0 400m

5 mins walk

Monorail

Train Station

Light Rail

Free Wi-fi

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Blending tradition with modern techniquesw o R D o N T h E S T R E E T

International news The exchange rate Irrashaimase (typical greeting at

traditional Japanese restaurants that means welcome)

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Haymarket and Chinatown residents are resettled expatriates, international students and cosmopolitan business people who seek the buzz of Sydneys inner ring. They believe in blending tradition with modern techniques and the custom of coming together for meal time.


A Sunday morning spent selecting individual morsels from Yum Cha bamboo baskets on Dixon Street.

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Markets Entertainment Centre Capitol Theatre Open late High intensity social scene The Metro Light Rail network Asian Australian

installation artwork

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Above the hustle and bustle of todays Dixon Street lie the remnants of a mysterious and sometimes dark past of long-gone opium dens and gambling halls.

Yum cha is a Cantonese term, which literally means, drink tea and is closely associated with dim sum, a wide range of small dishes. The link has roots on the ancient Silk Road where teahouses were established to rest travellers. After tea was found to be a digestion aid, snacks were added to the menu. Originating with the Cantonese in southern China, the culinary art and respite of yum cha has transformed into a loud and colourful dining experience.

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Wicker steamers full of plump dumplings

T A S T E

Roast Peking duck with plum sauce

S M E L L

Multiple cuisines at once

D o

Wander the rainbow isles of Paddys Markets, a trinket and fresh produce emporium

w A T C h

Avid fans line up outside a hole-in-the-wall dealer of miniature custard puffs baked fresh 12pm to 9pm on Dixon Street

B U Y

A rare natural curative from a wall of Chinese herbs

A F T E R D A R K

Squeeze your way through the Friday night market on Dixon Street mall

64

Information about events, entertainment, shopping, eating & local highlightswhatson.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au

urbanwalkabout.com

concreteplayground.com.au

timeoutsydney.com.au

twothousand.com.au

smh.com.au

abc.net.au/sydney

fbiradio.com

2ser.com

dailytelegraph.com.au

cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/aboutsydney

sydney.com

eventssydney.com

cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/barani

love2010.com.au

thesydneyfringe.com.au

pucc.com.au

haymarketchamber.org.au

chinatown.com.au

kingscrossonline.com.au

newtownprecinct.com.au

paddingtonsydney.com.au

walshbaysydney.com.au

facebook.com/redfernwaterloo

glebe.com.au

ssbchamber.com.au

sydneycycleways.net

Useful resources

Published and produced by Urban Walkabout on behalf of City of Sydney Design and illustration by Boccalatte

Copyright 2011 City of SydneyEditorial Enquiries: City of Sydney MarketingT: 9265 9333Email: [email protected]

Photography by Helen White

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add hyde park streetrailway tracks name parks


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Newtown

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Paddington

Potts PointWoolloomooloo

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HaymarketChinatown

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CityCentre

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SydneyUniversity

gold

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royal botanical gardens

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western distributor freeway

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