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Solar Stirling PlantM John

2 SOLAR STIRLING PLANT

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Please use caution when working on any of the projects outlined

within this manual. By reading this manual you agree to that you

are responsible for your own actions. SolarEnergyPlant.com, the

publisher, and the author will not be held accountable for any loss

or injuries.

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Table of Contents1.0 Introduction .................................................................................................................... 4

2.0 Components .................................................................................................................... 62.1 The Stirling Engine ....................................................................................................................62.2 The Parabolic Reflector .............................................................................................................7

3.0 The Construction Process ............................................................................................... 103.1 Building the Parabolic Reflector Dish.......................................................................................10

3.1.1 Layout................................................................................................................................... 123.1.2 Reflective Foil........................................................................................................................ 14

3.2 Constructing the Stirling Engine...............................................................................................183.2.1 Brass Tubes........................................................................................................................... 263.2.2 Music Wire............................................................................................................................ 263.2.3 Gasket Material..................................................................................................................... 273.2.4 Aluminum ............................................................................................................................. 273.2.5 Electrical Cover Plates ........................................................................................................... 283.2.6 Collars................................................................................................................................... 283.2.7 Styrofoam & Balsa................................................................................................................. 292.1.8 Epoxy .................................................................................................................................... 29

4.0 Assembly of the Stirling Motor Generator ...................................................................... 304.1 DC Power Motor.....................................................................................................................314.2 Battery Bank...........................................................................................................................324.3 Charge Controller....................................................................................................................324.4 Dump Load .............................................................................................................................334.5 AC Inverter .............................................................................................................................33

Maintenance ....................................................................................................................... 33

Future Improvements.......................................................................................................... 34


1.0 Introduction

Since you are already interested in a new type of free

energy, you might already know that the Solar Stirling Plant is

by far the most effective and efficient mean for producing

electrical energy.

Unlike the standard PV Panels, the Solar Stirling Plant is by

wide margin easier and cheaper to build, and at the same time

more effective at harnessing the solar energy from the sun.

Using the heat of the sun to provide energy to power your

home or business is an amazing and incredible concept. It is

mind-blowing when you actually consider that the Sun produces

enough energy everyday to sustain the average household’s

electrical needs. Unfortunately, global market forces have been

preventing most people from benefitting the Sun’s energy. If it

was not for the intentional suppression of the use of this type of

solar energy systems, it is quite conceivable that we could have

been using solar power for the majority of our energy needs for a

long time.

Take a moment to think about the value of the sun and its

role as a renewable resource. The amount of solar energy we use

today in no way effects the amount of energy that will be

available for use tomorrow or in 20 years. What is even better

about solar energy is that we are not borrowing from our

children’s future or creating greater problems for their children.

The sun produces on average 1,000 watts/per

square meter. Today, with this advanced technology we can get

real close to this figure.


2.0 Components

The Stirling Solar Plant is made up of two main components,

the Stirling Engine and a Parabolic Reflector. In the following

chapter we will discuss the function of each component within the

Stirling Solar Plant.

2.1 The Stirling Engine

The single most unique and main component of the Solar

Stirling Plant, as the name implies is the Stirling engine. The

Stirling Engine uses the heat from the Sun in order to rotate

and produce electrical energy.

The Scottish inventor Robert Stirling invented the engine in

1816, unfortunately the engine did not saw the light of day during

his lifetime. The Philips Company first used the designs almost

hundred years latter in the 1940s.

This heat engine operates on the principle of cyclic

compression and expansion of air or other gas at different

temperature levels, which allows net conversion of heat energy to

mechanical work. Like the steam engine, the Stirling Engine is

traditionally classified as an external combustion engine, as all

the heat to and from the working gas is transferred through the

engine wall, while the heat input in the internal combustion

engine is by combustion of fuel within the body of the working

fluid.

Unlike the steam engine that uses fluid in both its liquid and

gaseous phases, the Stirling engine uses predefined enclosed

fixed quantity of permanently gaseous fluid such as air. This is

why the Stirling engine is known for its high efficiency, quiet

functioning, and practicality, since it can use any heat source in

order to produce energy.

Nowadays, the common commercial use of the Stirling

Engine is as an auxiliary power generator for yachts. Future

implementations are planed for the next generation of nuclear

power plants, since they generate immense amounts of heat, the

main driving force behind the Stirling Engine.

You have already figured it out by now, the greatest thing

about this engine is, it can use virtually any heat source in order

to turn the engine, and what is a better permanent heat source

than the sun.

2.2 The Parabolic Reflector

To fully utilize the sun as a heat source you need a mirrored

(not inversed, but composed of mirrors), parabolic dish to reflect

and focus the sun's energy onto the hot end of a Stirling Engine.

The hot end is the component of the Stirling Engine where the

heat enters the engine.


A parabolic reflector (dish or a mirror) is a reflective device

used to collect or project energy such as light, sound, or radio

waves. Its shape is that of a circular paraboloid, which is the

surface generated by a parabola revolving around its axis. The

parabolic reflector transforms an incoming plane wave traveling

along the axis into a spherical wave converging toward the focus.

Image 1

As you can see from the diagram on Image 1, all the sun

rays coming through the surface L are collected and diverted to

the focus F.

The parabolic reflector’s property to collect and concentrate

all sorts of energy entering the reflector at a particular angle

makes it applicable for variety of electrical devices. It is most

commonly used in satellite dishes.

As we previously mentioned, in order to fully utilize the free

energy from the sun, we have made the parabolic reflector part

of our Solar Stirling Plant. It collects most of the sunrays and








Image 1



the focus F.















Image 1



the focus F.








concentrates them in to one spot, and that is where the Stirling

Engine will be placed. All this is done without any energy being

wasted.

Image 2

In Image 2, you can see the parabolic mirror, which you will

construct with our help, and the Stirling Engine, which is placed

in center of the focused sunrays. Produces electricity by using the

heat of the reflected and concentrated sunrays.



wasted.

Image 2







wasted.

Image 2





10

SOLAR STIRLING PLANT

3.0 The Construction Process

3.1 Building the Parabolic Reflector Dish

Note: If you want you can skip this part all together and buy this type of

dish online, but it will cost you around $100-$150.

Final Result

Needed Material:

Reflective foil

Plywood Sheet – 1000mm x 1000mm

The easiest and cheapest way to make such a dish is to cut and

fold a flat cardboard, then glue the aluminum foil on its inner

surface for reflectivity. Cardboard while easy to work with, is not

10






Final Result

Needed Material:

Reflective foil





10






Final Result

Needed Material:

Reflective foil





highly recommended due to its low durability, but for first time

users is easier and cheaper to work with so you can gain

experience.

We also recommend that you first make a scaled-down version

for practice (for example 1:4 or 1:5 model), using a piece of

paper. If you find the parabolic reflector too difficult to make, a

funnel shaped reflector is almost equally suitable alternative.

Note: Our parabolic reflector will be 5.1” focal length, and 31.5” in diameter.

The following dimensions can be scaled to make reflector dishes of different

sizes, we highly recommend that you first make a scaled down version with

regular paper.

12


3.1.1 Layout

Step 1

Using a ruler, draw an “X” line on the plywood so in the end the

plywood is divided on four equal parts.

Step 2

Draw a cross on the plywood, so the four parts are now divided in

half and now they make up eight equal pars.

12


3.1.1 Layout

Step 1



Step 2



12


3.1.1 Layout

Step 1



Step 2



Step 3

Now draw four more lines that segregate the area into sixteen

equal parts.

Step 4

First separate the median line (vertical middle) into eight equal

parts. Draw four circles such as each inner circle will fall on the

median lines you just drew. The forth-outer circle will land on the

ends of the median lines.

Step 3


equal parts.

Step 4





Step 3


equal parts.

Step 4





14


Step 5

Cut off the plywood outside of the outer circle.

Step 6

First cut along the dividing lines except the circles. Then fold the

petals in such manner so line 1 will connect with line 3, line 4

with line 6, line 7 with line 9, line 10 with line 12, line 13 with line

15, and line 16 with line 2. This will make the plywood into a bowl

shape.

3.1.2 Reflective Foil

Unless your sheet is already reflective, a reflective foil

should be applied after the parabolic reflector takes shape.

Aluminum foil for ordinary kitchen use is ideal. A thicker

(heavier gage) foil will be more durable. Aluminized plastic film

such as shiny food and beverage bags, or gift-wrap, is acceptable

14


Step 5


Step 6





shape.







14


Step 5


Step 6





shape.







but slightly less efficient and noticeably less durable than

aluminum foil.

Usually the foil is glued to the reflector, most water-based glue

will do. This includes glue made of flour, rice, or starch. To avoid

wrinkles on the foil, the glue must be thin enough so that it flows

easily.

It is easier to glue the foil on a flat sheet than on a parabolic dish.

However unless the sheet is very thin, the process of bending the

sheet will create wrinkles on the foil. Therefore it is best to apply

the foil after the dish is formed. By the way, sheet material that

expands and contracts significantly with humidity and

temperature also tends to create wrinkles on the foil. This is why

cardboard is not an ideal sheet material. The wrinkles reduce the

efficiency. They also shorten the life of the foil.

a) Cutting two trapezoidal pieces out of a rectangular foil

b) Cutting short slots along edges of each wedge

16


Two identical trapezoids can be cut from a rectangle with very

little waste (fig. 5). Try with used newspaper first to determine

the optimal width, length, and slope, as it depends on the shape

and size of your foil supply. Short slots can be cut along edges of

the trapezoid, so that the foil can overlap instead of wrinkle. The

trapezoids should cover all facets completely, except a circular

foil at the end will cover the inner circle.

Coat the inner surface of a petal thoroughly with glue, however

do not overuse glue if the sheet material (such as cardboard)

may swell when wet. Apply the foil, with the shinny side facing

up. To avoid bubbles, it is best to engage a small portion of the

foil on the petal at first. Keep most of the foil in the air, free of

glue. Then slowly extending the engaged area by pushing over

the foil. It is best to attach foil near its centerline (along its

length) first. So that it will be obvious how much the foil should

bend and overlap near its edges. It is OK if excess glue smears

over the reflecting surface. The glue can be wiped off later.

It is best to overlap the foil slightly, so that no direct sunlight will

strike the sheet material. For the same reason, it is best to have

a little extra length so that the foil can fold over the rim of the

dish. This prevents ultraviolet sunlight from damaging the

reflector.

Caution: Do not work with reflective material in direct sunlight, as it may

cause eye injury. Keep your reflector indoors until it is completely

assembled.

When the entire reflecting surface is covered by aluminum

foil, wipe the reflective surface gently with damp, clean cloth.

Wash the cloth frequently as needed. The wiping removes excess

glue, flattens the foil, and improves adhesion. Allow the glue to

dry, which may take a few days if the sheet material is permeable

to water. Then wipe again with damp, clean cloth to remove the

remaining glue smear and smudge.

After you have finished the constriction of the parabolic reflector

dish, we will begin the construction of the Stirling Engine.

18


3.2 Constructing the Stirling Engine

Now we will construct the single most unique component of

the Solar Stirling Plant, as we stated earlier that is the Stirling

engine.

The Stirling Engine uses the heat derived from the

Parabolic Reflector Dish, which in return derives the energy from

the Sun in order to rotate the Stirling engine.

The table on the next page represents all the needed

materials for the construction of the Stirling Engine. Some of the

components need further fabrication. For those components that

need custom fabrication we have provided detailed schematics.

The detail schematics are presented in the Stirling Schematics

file.

Pay close attention on the table on the next page, especially

the notes section, since in it we have presented the page

numbers for the corresponding schematics in the Stirling

Schematics file.

Below are all the parts needed to assambly the Stirling

Generator. Please pay close attantion , if you can not make them

yourself just go to a local mechanical shop with the designs and

they will make them for you, but I assure you that you can easily

make them yourself and you will have no problems.

Item

NumberPart Name Quantity Material Description Part Notes/ Building suggestions

1ABS 3 inch dia

x 1.51 ABS Plumbing fitting

Make the pipe end to be glued against the hot plate square and smooth. It must make an air-

tight/water-tight seal with the hot plate. It is easier to leave the pipe long until it has been glued, then

cut to the finish length.

2ABS Coupling 3

inch1 ABS Plumbing fitting

Use sandpaper on a flat surface to smooth the edge of the ABS coupling that will go against the gasket.

When gluing the ABS pipe into the ABS coupling with the hot plate sandwiched between the two, be

sure to use ample ABS cement for an air-tight/water-tight seal. Maintain pressure on pipe so that it

does not pop out while the cement hardens.

3 Cold plate 1Galvanized

steel

4 inch square electrical

cover plate

Match drill the center hole in the cold plate with the corresponding tube in the main mounting tube.

Drill the cold plate first, then with the support tube holes in the main mounting tube you can clamp the

two pieces together and use the cold plate as a guide for drilling the main mounting tube.(page1)

4 collar .062 1 Brass or SteelDu-Bro #137 or other

source

This collar is used to keep the Displacer fork pin from falling out. Du-Bro parts are available from

hobby stores or online.

5 collar .125 1 Brass or SteelDu-Bro #138 or other

source

This collar is used to keep the Crankshaft bearing tube in position. You may need to add some washers

or other spacers to fill the space between the Crankshaft support angle and the Crankshaft support

backup. Be careful to use light pressure on the collar set screw to avoid crushing the bearing tube and

causing high friction on the Crankshaft.

6 Cover Plate 1Galvanized

steel

4 inch square electrical

cover plateThe base of the engine. You can add or substitute a wood or other base as desired.

20


7 Crank pin 2 Music WireK&S Engineering .062"

dia x .875" long

Deburr the ends. Press one into Flywheel arm. If the fit is too loose or if the pin moves use epoxy or

other adhesive to lock it into position. You may adjust the length depending on where the rod-end

rides.

8 Crankshaft 1 Music wireK&S Engineering 3/32"

dia x 1-5/16" longDeburr but keep ends square for clamping, especially on Displacer Crank 2.

9Crankshaft

bearing tube1 Brass Tube

K&S Engineering 1/8"

dia x .014" wall x .75"

long

Deburr. A light grease inside will reduce friction.

10Crankshaft

support angle1

Aluminum

Angle

3/4"x3/4"x1/8" x 5-3/8"

long

The three holes that are also in the Crankshaft support backup should be match drilled. Rounding on

ends and relief angle are not critical. Hardware-store aluminum is fine. (page2)

11Crankshaft

support backup1

Aluminum

flat bar3/4"x1/8" x 2.5" long Match drill with the Crankshaft support angle. Hardware store aluminum is fine. (page3)

12 Displacer 1Styrofoam or

Balsa wood

3.4" dia x 1" long. May

be built up in layers

1" Foam insulation board such as sold at Home Depot is fine. Layers of thinner material may be used.

Epoxy the displacer shaft in the exact center of the displacer and make sure the shaft is perpendicular.

Use a drill press to hold the shaft while the 5-minute epoxy sets. (page9)

13Displacer Crank

21

Brass square

tube


square x .014" wall

You could also make this piece from 1/4" square solid aluminum. Be careful when center-punching

holes not to crush the tube. The triangular cut to the .062 hole was done with a triangle file. It could be

slit with a saw as on the other end. I was concerned that sawing into the small hole would destroy it.

The triangle file gives good control. The screws need only be tightened lightly to lock them in

position. The forces on them are low. (page4)

14

Displacer

cylinder hold-

down angle

4 Aluminum3/4"x3/4"x1/8 inch

aluminum angle

The holes in the angles are oversize to allow some freedom in positioning the displacer cylinder over

the displacer. You can make the holes even larger if you need to. (page5)

15Displacer Fork

pin1

Music Wire

1/16 dia

K&S Engineering

.062"dia x 1-3/8" long

Bend one end of the pin or use two collars and a shorter pin. Anything that will keep the pin from

drifting out of the fork.

16 Displacer gasket 1Soft Gasket

material

WonderLiner solid shelf

and drawer liner

The gasket material needs to be reasonably soft and thick enough to tolerate some unevenness in the

cold plate and ABS coupling. Because it will see maximum pressures of less than one PSI, soft

material is not a problem. You need a good seal for the engine to operate, but you cannot crank down

too hard on the hold-downs or you risk bending the cold plate. I'm able to get a good seal with the

WonderLiner using only finger tightening of the hold-down nuts. (page6)

17Displacer rod

shaft1

Music Wire

.047 dia

K&S Engineering

.047"dia x 3-1/4" long

You can use .062 music wire too. I chose .047 to save a little weight. Make sure to use music wire

(spring steel) and not softer steel.

22


18 Displacer shaft 1Music Wire

.062 dia

K&S Engineering

.062"dia x 3-5/8" long

Make sure to use .062 dia music wire. This wire makes a good seal with the 3/32 dia tube that it slides

in. The music wire is spring steel and will not easily get bent like softer steels.

19Displacer shaft

fork2 Aluminum .5" x .875" x 1/16" thick

You don't need to buy this material separately, you can use some of the same material used in the Main

mounting tube. Match drill the two pieces.(page8)

20Displacer shaft

fork center1 Aluminum .5"x .375" x 1/8" thick

Made from the 1/8" x 3/4" bar. Match drill with the Displacer shaft fork. Cut the V-groove with a

triangular file. It doesn't need to be deep, just enough to hold the displacer shaft in alignment with the

fork while you tighten the screws. (page7)

21Displacer shaft

tube1 Brass Tube


dia x .014" wall x 1-

3/16" long

Deburr. You will 5-minute epoxy this tube to the main mounting tube. Don't put any epoxy on the face

that clamps against the gasket and cold plate, Use epoxy on the inside of the main mounting tube.

Reach in with a tooth pick or other tool to apply the epoxy as best you can. You only need to hold the

tube in place, it does not have much force on it. A Light grease may reduce the sliding friction of the

displacer shaft inside the tube.

22 Flywheel arm 1 Aluminum 1/4" x 1/2" x 5" longYou might have difficulty locating 1/4" x 1/2" aluminum bar at a hardware store. You can cut down a

1/4" x 1" bar or consider buying it online. (page10)

23Hose Clamp, 4.5

inch diameter1

Steel or

Stainless steel

Range includes 4-1/2"

diameter

A standard hose clamp that should be available in the plumbing section. It may be a 4"-6" size range.

4" -5" would also work.

24 hot plate 1 Galvanized Made from 4 inch square It should be a slip fit.(page11)

steel cover plate

25Main mounting

tube1

Aluminum

square tubing

1" x 1" x 5-9/16" long x

1/16" wallThe 1/16" wall isn't critical. My tube has a .047" wall. A 1/8" wall will work too.(page13)

26Main mounting

tube gasket1

Soft Gasket

material

WonderLiner solid shelf

and drawer liner

See discussion on displacer gasket. If you have trouble getting a good seal with this gasket, look to see

if the cold plate is warped. If it is warped put the convex side against the Main mounting tube and the

seal should improve when the two pieces are bolted together. (page12)

27 No 10 FH x .5 2 SteelFlat head 10-32 or 10-24

x 1/2" long

28 No 10 FH x .75 2 SteelFlat head 10-32 or 10-24

x 3/4" long

29 No 4 FH x .313 1 SteelFlathead 4-40 x 5/16"

long

30 No 4 nut 6 Steel 4-40 nut

31No 4 x .5 cap

screw4 Steel

4-40 x 1/2" long cap

screw, socket or Phillips

head

32No 4 x .75 cap

screw1 Steel

4-40 x 3/4" long cap

screw, socket head

The socket head is recommended for this screw because you may need a fair amount of torque to lock

the flywheel arm to the crankshaft. This is easier to apply with the socket head.

24


33 Nut 10-32 28 Steel

10-32 or 10-24 nuts to

match FH screws and

threaded rods

I used 10-32 on the FH screws and 10-24 on the threaded rods. The coarse thread is easier when you

are running a nut down 5 or more inches of threaded rod. The 10-32 grips tighter. You can use 10-24

for everything and it should be fine.

34 Power cylinder 1 Brass Tube


dia x .014"wall x 2-1/4"

long

Deburr ends and make sure the end that goes against the gasket is perfectly square to avoid leaks. Be

very careful not to distort this tube out of round when clamping, cutting or epoxying to the Main

mounting tube. Before epoxying the tube in position make certain the piston skirt slides freely in the

power cylinder under its own weight.

35Power piston

rod shaft1

Music wire

.047

K&S Engineering .047"

dia x 4.5" long

You can use .062 music wire too. I chose .047 to save a little weight. Make sure to use music wire

(spring steel) and not softer steel.

36Power piston

skirt1 Brass Tube


dia x .014" wall x 1"

long

Deburr ends and make sure the piston top end is square. Be very careful not to distort this tube out of

round when clamping and cutting. Oil or grease will greatly increase the friction of the piston sliding

in the power cylinder. Keep it clean and dry.

37Power piston

top1 Aluminum 1/8" thick Make from 1/8" x 3/4" bar (page14)

38 Rod end 4 Aluminum 1/8" thick Make from 1/8" x 3/4" bar(page15)

39 Support Rod 4 Threaded rod10-24 or 10-32 threaded

rod, 10-1/4" longCut all four to the same length. Deburr the ends so that nuts will thread on easily.

40 washer no 10 26 Steel #10 washer

41Washer No 10 x

1.25 fender4 Steel

#10 fender washer, 1.25"

OD

42 Washer No 4 1 Steel #4 washer

43 Wrist Pin 1Music Wire

.062

K&S Engineering .062

dia x 1/2" long

Make sure the wrist pin is long enough that it cannot slide out of the wrist pin bearing tube when inside

the piston skirt.

44Wrist pin

bearing tube1 Brass Tube

K&S Engineering

11/32"dia x 1/2" long

This tube was chosen as a good fit with the #4 washer. A slightly larger diameter tube could also be

used but not a smaller tube. (page16)

26


3.2.1 Brass Tubes

The power cylinder and piston skirt are critical items and

should not be substituted. When in a vertical position these two

brass tubes slide with very low friction while providing a

reasonably good seal. The K&S Engineering

(http://www.ksmetals.com/index.html) brass tubes are widely

available from hardware stores and hobby stores, or you can buy

them online (http://www.ksmetals.com/RetailLocations.html).

Note that all of the brass tubes called for in the BOM (bill-of-

materials) have a .014” wall thickness. K&S also makes tubes

with a .028” wall, those would not work. I would recommend that

you use the K&S brass tubes for all the tubes (five round tubes

and one square tube) although you may substitute solid ¼”

square aluminum for the ¼” square brass tube.

3.2.2 Music Wire

The BOM also calls out K&S Engineering music wire. Any

music wire of the correct diameter may be substituted. Music wire

is a high-strength spring steel and you should not substitute

other types of steel such as welding rod that have much lower

yield strength.

3.2.3 Gasket Material

The gasket material needs to be reasonably soft and thick

enough to tolerate some unevenness in the cold plate, and ABS

coupling. Because it will see maximum pressures of less than one

PSI, soft material is not a problem. The WonderLiner solid shelf

and drawer liner is about 1/16" thick, and the best material I

have found so far for this application.

The WonderLiner solid shelf and drawer liner was available in my

local hardware store. It came in a 12” x 5 foot roll. It’s available

online(http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/%28owmqdw554qugq

h45awjeqi55%29/LargeImage.aspx?SKU=6125116&Image=6125

116_20070611_jack.jpg&height=121) but you may have to shop

around for single rolls. Make sure to get the solid type.

3.2.4 Aluminum

The aluminum bar, angle, and square tube are extrusions

and should be adequate for this engine. If you have to make a

selection from an online merchant or other store opt for either

6061-T6 or 6063. The few small parts that require 1/16” flat

aluminum can be made from the wall of the 1”x1”x 1/16” wall

square tube. You should be able to find the aluminum at your

hardware store with the exception of the .25” x .5” bar. You

might have to cut this down from a .25” x 1” bar. You can also

28


buy these materials online and most will sell material by-the-foot,

some by-the-inch. Two suppliers I’ve used are:

OnlineMetals.com

Speedy Metals - (http://www.speedymetals.com/c-8342-

aluminum.aspx)

3.2.5 Electrical Cover Plates

This design uses three 4” square electrical cover plates. One

is cut and filed into a disk for the hot plate. The plates are from

galvanized steel and about 1/16” thick. They were chosen for low

cost, availability and already cut to size with mounting holes. Use

the solid sheet type, not the ones that have a knockout for

conduit. If you don’t know what these look like see the base in

the engine photo.

3.2.6 Collars

The 1/8” and 1/16” diameter collars are available from

hobby stores (that sells RC airplanes). I’ve included the Du-bro

catalog numbers for a package that includes four collars and a

socket wrench for about $1. You need a 1/8” collar, you might

find another way to retain the 1/16” pin other than a collar.

3.2.7 Styrofoam & Balsa

To make the displacer you need some light, rigid material.

My engine initially used the foam sold at Home Depot as a

building insulation, you can also use various types of rigid foam

sold at craft and hobby stores, balsa wood works well too.

2.1.8 Epoxy

You need “5 minute epoxy”, this epoxy mixes and sets

quickly so there is very little time waiting for the epoxy to cure. If

you need to release parts that have been epoxied together, you

can use a heat gun to soften the epoxy.

30


4.0 Assembly of the Stirling Motor Generator

You are almost done, you have the parabolic reflector dish

and the Stirling Motor ready to use.

I have explained that the Stirling motor needs heat to run,

so the main thing is positioning the motor in the focus area of the

parabolic reflector dish. This will make the Stirling Motor to

rotate. Now you have a dish with a Stirling motor that rotates by

the heat of the sun. All you need now is a DC power motor to

generate electricity.

For further in-depth analysis of the assembly, please consult the

Stirling Assembly guide.

30













30













4.1 DC Power Motor

Generally speaking, DC motors were designed to use power,

but when you turn the motor in the opposite direction, it will

generate electricity. It is the simplicity of the DC motor that

makes it ideal for building your own Stirling Generator system.

DC motors are found in a variety of small tools such as drills

and even VCRs. What you are looking for specifically is a surplus

permanent magnet DC motor. It is often possible to find used DC

motors in old power tools or you can search the Internet for deals

on DC motors as well. Ebay generally has a good selection and

you will need to purchase a DC motor that is the correct size for

your system. DC motors generally run between $30-$70.

When purchasing a DC motor, you will want to pay attention to

the RPMs, shaft size, amps and voltage. You are looking for low

RPMs, because when a DC motor is used as a generator (or the

motor is turned in the opposite direction to produce electricity),

4.1 DC Power Motor
















4.1 DC Power Motor
















32


the motor must spin much faster than the rated RPMs to produce

the proper voltage.

It would be ideal to find a motor rated under 400 RPMs at 30

volts, which when used as a generator will produce about 12 volts

of power when rotating at 200 RPMs. Your goal is to obtain a DC

motor with high voltage, high current and low RPMs.

- We suggest the following DC motors which are often available

online and on Ebay:

1150 RPM 38 VDC Ametek motor or Ametek 30 VDC motor

4.2 Battery Bank

Just as you needed with the solar energy system, a Stirling

Power Plant system requires deep cycle batteries as well. These

batteries will be used to store the energy generated by your

Stirling Engine. Batteries can be purchased new either locally or

online, or you can often find free batteries from area businesses

that utilize them such as golf carts and forklifts.

4.3 Charge Controller

32



the proper voltage.






online and on Ebay:


4.2 Battery Bank








32



the proper voltage.






online and on Ebay:


4.2 Battery Bank








A control charger prevents your battery bank from becoming

overloaded. Although not a necessary element, we strongly

suggest that you plan to use a charge controller in your wind

energy system.

4.4 Dump Load

A dump load is where all the extra power generated by your

system is directed. There are a variety of appliances that can be

used to catch dump loads and those with heating elements such

as hot water heaters are a great place to send your extra energy.

It is also possible to just send excess power to a ground wire.

4.5 AC Inverter

If you are using your Stirling Power electricity to power AC

appliances within the home, business or wherever, you are going

to need an AC inverter.

5.0 Maintenance

Now since your Solar Stirling Plant is complete it is time toput it in use.




energy system.

4.4 Dump Load






4.5 AC Inverter




5.0 Maintenance





energy system.

4.4 Dump Load






4.5 AC Inverter




5.0 Maintenance


34


As you have already seen, there are various ways to integrateyou free energy source in to your system. The simplest systemand most logical is to use a single Solar Stirling Dish.

All you need to do is connect the Solar Stirling Plant to a chargecontroller, and the charge controller to a battery. If you arelooking for a cheap charge controller I recommend you searchEBay, it will cost you around $20.

In order to clean the Solar Stirling Dish, you should use non-abrasive cleaner and a soft towel. You should clean the StirlingEngine once a year. For the parabolic dish it depends from regionto region. The environment you are in to determent how oftenyou will have to clean the dish, but in most cases it should bedone around once or twice a month. The amount of power asingle Dish will produce is determined by the amount of sun lightthe dish will get. If your Parabolic Dish is dusty you will lose from20 to 40 percent of the usual output power.

6.0 Future Improvements

In the future if you want to connect more Solar StirlingPlants to your system all you need to do is connect them inparallel.

For future improvements there will be an update of thisguide, it will be for improving the reflecting capacity of the dish.The Dish will be made out of small mirrors instead of reflectivefoil, this way it will be more effective in producing electricalenergy.

solar stirling plantsolarstirlingplant.com/guide.pdf · 2 solar stirling plant ... been using solar...

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