solesphere silicas for cosmetic & personal care products
DESCRIPTION
AGC Chemicals is leading producer of fine silica gel ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products. Its Solesphere™ products are widely used to provide smooth texture and soft-focus (light diffraction) properties and to adsorb skin oils and perspiration. These three studies quantify the advantages of Solesphere gels versus petrochemical-based microspherical materials in prototypical, oil-in-water (O/W) formulations. Texture and soft-focus effects are compared, and results show that Solesphere H-121 is the most effective means to impart smooth textures and soft-focus effects across many oil formulations.TRANSCRIPT
AGC Chemicals Americas, Inc. Your Global Source for Fine Silica Gels Case Studies: Solesphere™ vs. Other Microspheres for the Personal Care Market October 2013
Introduction and Background
AGC Chemicals is leading producer of fine silica gels for use as ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products. Its Solesphere™ products are widely used to provide smooth texture and soft-focus, or light diffraction properties. Also, to adsorb skin oils and perspiration. These three (3) studies demonstrate this in a quantitative way. Detailed, prototypical, oil-in-water (O/W) formulations are used. Comparison of texture and soft-focus effects, relative to other petrochemical based micro-spherical materials, is made. Summary of results are that, Solesphere™ H-121 is most effective to impart smooth textures and soft-focus effects, across many oil formulations and relative to other petrochemical based micro-spherical materials.
Three Studies Completed
AGC micro-spherical silica: Solesphere™H-121 1. Oil-in-water (O/W) skin care formulations:
A. Measure of smoothness of application B. Measure of soft focus: matte effect
2. Comparison to other petrochemical beads
3. Using Silicone elastomer with Solesphere™ H-121
STUDY #1
Solesphere™ H-121 Performance in Oil in Water
(O/W) Skin Care Formulations
Study #1: O/W Sample Formulation
COMPONENT (wt-%)
A
Water Up to 100
Pypus cydonia seeds extract 5.0
Carboxyl Vinyl Polymer 2% dispersed 10.0
Phenoxy ethanol 0.5
B
Hydrogenated lecithin 0.2
Muriatic acid poly-glycerin-10 1.0
Ceteallyl alcohol 1.5
Glyceryl Stearate 1.0
Stearic acid 0.5
Palmitic acid cetyl 0.8
Mineral oil 70cs 5.0 ~ 12.5
Dimethicone(100cs) 0.3
Glycerin 3.0
C Sodium hydroxide 5% water solution 5% 0.5
D Solesphere™, H-121 0 ~ 3.0
Propanediol 6.0
Order of Addition/ Process Sequence
A: Main aqueous phase
B: Oil phase emulsion
C: Neutral- ization
D: Powder Cooling 40°C
Cooling 30°C
Evaluation of Properties: O/W Skincare Formulations
• Properties of H-121, by content of silica, in O/W skincare formulation: Oil type: Mineral oil(70cs) = 10% Powder: H-121 silica = 0% Control, 1%, 2%, and 3%
Evaluation: A. Smooth Texture B. Degree of Soft Focus
• Properties of H-121, by content of oil
Oil type: Mineral(70cs) = 5%, 7.5%, 10%, 12.5% Powder: H-121 silica = 3%
Evaluation A. Smooth Texture B. Degree of Soft Focus
H-121 O/W Property Evaluation: Smooth Texture
0.15
0.17
0.19
0.21
0.23
0.25
0 1 2 3 Content of H-121, %
Aver
age
Fric
tiona
l Coe
ffici
ent (
MIU)
Smooth Texture
Bad
Good
H-121 O/W Property Evaluation: Soft Focus
20
24
28
32
36
40
6 6.5 7 7.5 8
Diff
use
Tran
smitt
ance/
Tota
l Lig
ht T
rans
mitt
ance×1
00
Good
Soft focus
Bad
Matte Gloss Glossiness
3% 2%
1%
Control
H-121 by content
H-121 By Oil Content Property Evaluation: Smooth Texture
0.15 0.17 0.19 0.21 0.23 0.25 0.27 0.29
4 6 8 10 12 14
H-121
Control
Mineral Oil Content (%)
Aver
age
Fric
tiona
l Coe
ffici
ent (
MIU
)
Smooth Texture
Bad
Good
H-121 By Oil Content Property Evaluation: Soft Focus
20 25 30 35 40 45
50
4 5 6 7 8 9 10
H-121
Control
By oil content %
Diff
use
Tran
smitt
ance/
Tota
l Lig
ht T
rans
mitt
ance×1
00
Soft focus
Good
Bad
Matte Gloss
Glossiness
7.5%
10% 5% 12.5%
12.5% 10% 7.5% 5%
Summary: Solesphere H-121 O/W Study #1
• Data show for skincare and foundations:
– Improves smooth texture properties by 20% and more – Improves soft focus by approximately 30% – Long lasting effect by absorbing sebum and perspiration
STUDY #2
Solesphere™ H-121 Performance Comparison to Other Petrochemical-based
Microspheres
Evaluation of Properties: Petrochemical-Based Microspheres
• Oil Content, 10% of either: a) Triethyl hexanonin (refractive index (R.I.) 1.445) b) Mineral oil 70cs (R.I. 1.4624) c) Phenyl trimethicone (R.I.1.498)
• Powder Content, 3% of either: a) Solesphere™ H-121 fine silica b) Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) (7µm) c) Silicone Resin (5µm) d) Nylon-12 (10µm)
• Evaluation Items: a) Smooth Texture b) Degree of Soft Focus
Study #2: Sample Formulation
COMPONENT (wt-%)
A
Water Up to 100
Pypus cydonia seeds extract 5.0
Carboxyl Vinyl Polymer 2% dispersed 10.0
Phenoxy ethanol 0.5
B
Hydrogenated lecithin 0.2
Muriatic acid poly-glycerin-10 1.0
Ceteallyl alcohol 1.5
Glyceryl Stearate 1.0
Stearic acid 0.5
Palmitic acid cetyl 0.8
Oil phase 10.0
Dimethicone(100cs) 0.3
Glycerin 3.0
C Sodium hydroxide 5% water solution 5% 0.5
D Powder 3.0
Propanediol 6.0
Order of Addition/ Process Sequence
A: Main aqueous phase
B: Oil phase emulsion
C: Neutral- ization
D: Powder Cooling 40°C
Cooling 30°C
H-121 Property Evaluation Other Microspheres: Smooth Texture
Mineral Oil (70cs) Triethyl hexanonin Phenyltrimethicone
Good
Bad Av
erag
e Fr
ictio
n co
effic
ient
(MIU
)
0.24
0.20 0.18
0.26
0.14
0.22
0.10 0.12
0.16
Sole
sphe
re™
H
-121
Silic
one
resi
n (5
µm)
Nyl
on-1
2 (1
0µm
)
PMM
A (7
µm)
Con
trol
Smooth Texture
H-121 Property Evaluation Other Microspheres: Soft Focus
0.8 0.9
1 1.1 1.2 1.3
1.4
0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1 1.1
Mineral Oil (70cs) Phenyltrimethicone
Haz
e R
atio
Soft focus
Good
Bad
Matte Gloss
Gloss Ratio
PMMA
Silicone Resin
H-121/W
Nylon 12
PMMA
H-121
1.5 1.6
Triethylhexanonin
H-121
Silicone Resin
PMMA
Nylon 12
Nylon 12
Silicone Resin
Summary: Solesphere™H-121 Other Microspheres Study #2
• Solesphere™ H-121 silica is a better component
for improving smooth texture and soft focus effect compared to other petrochemical-based microspheres.
• When combined with each oil, Nylon powder is easily aggregated in each oil. – More effective to combine Nylon and H-121 – Improves slippery nature of Nylon
STUDY #3
Solesphere™ H-121 Fine Silica with Silicone
Elastomer
Evaluation of Properties: H-121 with Silicone Elastomer
Silicone Elastomer: General term for paste and a cross-linked silicate polymer Can be used to improve: • Soft touch feel • Matte effect
Evaluation of Texture: • Friction variation • Smooth texture • Soft focus effect
Study #3: Sample Formulation COMPONENT (wt-%)
A
Water Up to 100 Up to 100
Pyrus Cydonia seed extract 2% dispersed liquid 5.0 5.0
Carboxyl Vinyl polymer 2% dispersed liquid 10.0 10.0
Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5
B
Hydrogenated lecithin 0.2 0.2
Muriatic acid poly glyceril-10 1.0 1.0
Ceteallyl alcohol 1.5 1.5
Glycerol Stearate 1.0 1.0
Stearic acid 0.5 0.5
Palmitic acid cetyl 0.8 0.8
(Dimethicone/Vinyl dimethicone) cross-polymer, Dimethicone 3.0 3.0
Dicapric acid neopentyl alcohol 5.0 5.0
Glycerin 3.0 3.0
C Sodium Hydroxide 5% water solution Na 5% 0.5 0.5
D Solesphere™ H-121, fine silica 3.0 ーーー Propandiol 6.0 6.0
Evaluation of Textural Properties: Friction Change"
50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95
100
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Friction times
(# of application strokes)
Fric
tion
ratio
(%)
H-121 Control
Reduce friction of silicone elastomer when drying on skin by combining Solesphere™ H-121, fine silica
Increase friction by evaporating volatile oils
and water.
Friction change (variation) of cream
Evaluation of Textural Properties: Smooth Texture
0.2
0.21
0.22
0.23
0.24
0.25
Control H-121
Aver
age
Fric
tiona
l coe
ffici
ent(
MIU
)
Smooth Texture
Bad
Good
Evaluation of Textural Properties: Soft Focus
25
30
35
40
45
50
3 3.5 4 4.5 5
Soft focus
Good
Bad Glossiness
Matte Gloss
H-121
Control
Summary: Solesphere™H-121 with Silicone Elastomer Study #3
By combining silicone elastomer with Solesphere™ H-121, both smooth and soft touchtextures are improved:
– H-121: smooth texture – Silicone elastomer: soft touch texture
In Conclusion Solesphere™ H-121 fine silica is effective to improve: • Smooth texture • Soft focus • Long-lasting effect Additionally, Solesphere™ H-121 fine silica absorbs sebum and perspiration.
AGC Chemicals Americas, Inc."
For More Informa,on
www.agcchem.com 800-‐424-‐7833
@AGCChem_Amer on Twi@er