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Some thoughts on Mountain Safety + ( Basic equipment + winter skills & belay principles) ©A Harrison ML Reg No.24645

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Page 1: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Some thoughts on Mountain Safety + ( Basic equipment + winter skills & belay principles)

©A Harrison ML Reg No.24645

Page 2: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Basic 25 litre rucsac (daysac).

Dozens of types on the market.

Means of carrying ice axe and

Crampons.

Page 3: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Bivi bag

Fleece

FoodWaterproof

Warm hat &gloves

Headtorch (usually LED nowadays)Basic First

Aid

Rucsac and contents

Overtrousers

Page 4: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski touring boots.

Page 5: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

A typical baseplate compass

Page 6: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Some mountain hazards

Page 7: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 8: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

A traditional ice axe

Page 9: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Axe with curved pick and carbon shaft

Page 10: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

With a banana pick

Page 11: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Movement on snow slopes

Kick steps in the snow when possible, half the bootoften enough for security.

Be aware that you might wander into an area of hardersnow and have difficulty fixing crampons.

Also the snow that is soft enough to kick steps intomight be rock hard later in the day when the temperature drops due to a cold front or just the sun going down.

Do not dismiss instep crampons when going lightweight, they can save your life in the above situation, or on frozen paths above fatal drops.

Page 12: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Side of the boot can also be used

Page 13: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Axe also ready for self arrest.See following slides

Page 14: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 15: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 16: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 17: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 18: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Some winter anchors

Page 19: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Buried ice axe anchor

Page 20: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Belay practice

Page 21: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Snow mushroom anchor

Page 22: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Dead man utilised as a snow shovel on the end of the ice axe

Page 23: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Testing an anchor to destruction

Page 24: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Snow shelters

Page 25: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Mining blocks for a snow coffin

Page 26: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Building the roof

Note improvised snow shovel

Page 27: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Entrance can be blocked with a rucsacn.b. do not leave your ice axe outside!

Page 28: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

A snow cave

Page 29: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Practice day!

Page 30: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Using a 2 man bivi sac

Page 31: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 32: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Group survival shelters

Page 33: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Very effective but somebody has to carry it

Page 34: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 35: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Forcast your weather

Page 36: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Ready for climbing then skiing down

Hellvelyn

Skis are very usefulbut need good snow

conditions

Page 37: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Climbing Central Gully, Great End

Page 38: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 39: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 40: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 41: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 42: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

The summit of Great End

Page 43: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Basic ropework

Page 44: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Tying into a harness

Page 45: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

With the anchor within reach

Tying into an anchor

Page 46: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

With a facility to adjust your position

Page 47: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 48: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Using two anchors

Page 49: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 50: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 51: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 52: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

A waist belay

Page 53: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Using a belay device

Page 54: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Using an Italian Hitch

Page 55: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

A typical rack

Page 56: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

The use of various anchors and/orrunning belays

Page 57: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 58: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 59: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 60: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 61: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 62: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Italian Hitch andHMS karabiner

Braking systems

Page 63: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Locked off

Page 64: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

ATC in position ofmaximum brakingforce

Page 65: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Then locked off

Page 66: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Traditional prussic knot

Salewa quickfix device

Page 67: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

French Prussic, can be released under load so often used to safeguard abseils byclipping to a leg loop ofthe harness

Page 68: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Abseils, using a figure of 8descender, a fairly foolproofdevice but heavy to carry andonly single use.

Page 69: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Locking off a figure of 8

Page 70: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

Any modern belay devicecan be used, even anItalian Hitch. nb. It has atendency to twist the ropebut ok if going lightweight

Page 71: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

A rock climb on Pikes Crag

Page 72: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 73: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 74: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the

If no harness available a chest tie is betterthan a waist tie but

belays need thinking about.

Page 75: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 76: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 77: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
Page 78: Some thoughts on Mountain Safety · Basic First Aid Rucsacand contents Overtrousers. Left to right. Approach shoes. Alpine boots & crampons. Ski ... might be rock hard later in the
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Finish

Some images from Mountain Craft and LeadershipBy Eric Langmuir 1995.


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