S O O T H I N G & L E N I T I V E

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The ingredients described herein are offered for consideration for use in personal care products. The information provided describes historical use, ingredient activity and other information that may be relevant to their use in such products. How each ingredient would contribute to a particular product would be formulation specific. Furthermore please note that this documentation is available for various countries all over the world and hence it may contain statements not applicable to your country.

W H A T A B O U T S O O T H I N GSoothing means having a calming, assuaging or relieving effect, and when it is referred to skin it is normally used to indicate a relief from skin discomfort of various origin. Soothing active ingredients may be also defined as calming, emollient and lenitive.This proposed scheme to skin care may be thought to as a thorough approach addressing some of the most commons causes of skin discomfort. It refers to three different targets as skin relief, the sensoriality burdened by increased skin sensitiveness and connective tissue and skin restructurants.

Aim of this brochure is to provide a comprehensive overview of the botanical active ingredients suitable for any lenitive and soothing application. It contains several options addressed to multiple biological targets to offer a multifunctional approach in the project of finished dosage forms containing natural active ingredients from plants.

18β-GLYCYRRHETINIC ACID: the active molecule of 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid is obtained from the licorice root. It is structurally similar to cortisol, an endogenous hormone with inflammation modulating properties: it potentiates cortisol activity by inhibiting its hepatic and intracellular inactivation properties, thus allowing cortisol to exert its natural biological activity for a longer time. 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid has also been formulated in the most bioavailable Phytosome® form.

BOSEXIL®: is the Phytosome® form of the triterpenoid acid fraction from frankincense (Boswellia serrata, a plant native to India). It contains active molecules as boswellic acids which have been shown in vitro to modulate the inflammatory response, driven by the eicosanoid cascade. Topically, Bosexil™ has been shown clinically to counteract photoaging and exert some lenitive and soothing effects on skin.

Level of use 0.5-3% Level of use 0.5-2%

ZANTHALENE®: Zanthalene® is an Ecocert and Cosmos validated CO2 extract obtained from the fruit of Sichuan pepper, a chinese spice known for its chemestetic properties. It has been shown clinically to reduce discomfort during hair dyeing or modulate the itching sensations of mosquito bites or itchy skin.

Level of use 0.5-1%

XILOGEL®: is an extremely well characterized polysaccharide obtained form the seed of tamarind, Ecocert and Cosmos validated. It forms viscous gels with a unique and sensory feelingand also has been shown in vitro to reduce the markers of aging in aged keratinocytes and to improve the expression of filaggrin, a protein associated with moisture maintenance. Clinically, it has shown strong hydrating, elasticizing, anti wrinkle and re-densifying properties. It is also endowed with a unique sensoriality.

Level of use 0.1-2%

CENTELLA ASIATICA SELECTED TRITERPENES: the triterpenes obtained from Centella asiatica exert their activity by stimulating collagen biosynthesis and increasing the incorporation of hydroxyproline into this protein, thus modulating the metabolism of connective tissue, promoting the physiological skin repair. Centella asiatica selected triterpenes also exert a protective effect on microcirculation. Centella asiatica selected triterpenes has also been formulated in the most bioavailable Phytosome® form.

Level of use 0.1-1%

CENTEVITA®: this Ecocert and Cosmos validated extract contains both the well known tripetrenic fraction and another polyphenolic fraction from the Centella asiatica leaves. It mimics very closely the content of biologically active molecules contained in the leaf. It has demonstrated in vitro to promote dermis densification and collagen synthesis.

Level of use 0.1-1%

LENITIVE, SOOTHING, SENSIVITY MODULATORS

SOOTHING

SKIN BARRIER RESTRUCTURANTS

challenged epidermis

challenged epidermis

epidermis

dermis

T H E B O T A N I C A L S ’ O P T I O N SSeveral botanical active ingredients have been reported effective in addressing, by various mechanisms of action, the physiological functions our organism uses to maintain a healthy status and appearance of the skin and to counteract skin discomfort. The challenges eventually occurring on the skin may be counteracted by several soothing actives that modulate the inflammation response.

Another target, whenever a skin damage should involve the deeper layers of the skin, skin restructurants as well as antimicrobial and re-epitelizing agents are also available.

Finally, besides the inflammation markers themselves, another target is relieving the skin discomfort symptoms as itch and dryness, so the category of botanical ingredients that soothe and assuage and relieve from itch is also cited.

GINKGO BILOBA TERPENES: Ginkgo biloba is considered as a living fossil, as it is the only survivor of a species originated 150 million years ago. The tree defended itself throughout the centuries and modern science had indentified its components as the reason for its longevity in nature. The standardized extract from Ginkgo biloba leaves has been subject to extensive research which has identified the terpenoid fraction as responsible for a soothing effect.Ginkgo biloba terpenes has also been formulated in the most bioavailable Phytosome® form.

Level of use up to 1.5%

MERIVA®: is a patented delivery form of curcumin, a well known active molecule which modulates the inflammatory cascade. Curcumin, in Meriva® most bioavailable form, is suitable for topical use, where it has demonstrated in vitro to protect from UV damage and has been shown to reduce the number of sun burned cells following to UV stimulus. This qualifies Meriva® as adequate candidate ingredient for sun care products.

Level of use 0.1-1%

HAMAMELIS: Witch hazel distillate is also known as hamamelis water, is an extract prepared from the twigs, barks and leaves of Hamamelis virginiana plant. It is a complex essence containing hamamelitannin and other polyphenolic compounds. As other astringent compounds hamamelis seals cells membranes and reduces capillary permeability. It is also reported as venotonic, antimicrobial, antioxidant and soothing. Sensorially, it has astringent and refreshing properties.

Level of use up to 2%

ECHINACEA: is a traditional North American plant used in folk medicine for topical application. Its extract is standardized with respect to echinacoside content, but is also reported to contain other polyphenolic compounds. Echinacea has also been reported to modulate hyaluronidase depolymerisation activity, thus improving hyaluronic acid stability. Additionally, some amides are reported to have chemestetic properties.

Level of use 0.1-1%

ASIATICOSIDE: is a terpenoid component extracted form Centella asiatica. It has been shown to increase collagen synthesis and therefore anti-wrinkle activity. Skin aging appears to be principally related to a decrease in the levels of type I collagen, the primary component of the skin dermis. Type I collagen is also known to impart tensile strength to skin. In vitro evaluations have demonstrated the receptor activity of Asiaticoside on collagen synthesis.

Level of use 0.1-0.5%

PA2: PA2 (Proanthocyanidin A2) is a molecule present in the bark of the Horse Chestnut tree. It has potent antienzymatic activity (mainly anti-elastase and anti-collagenase), is a free radical scavenger, normalizes impaired capillary permeability and fragility and promotes a physiological skin repair. The Phytosome® form has also been developed and it has been clinically reported to promote skin firmness.

Level of use 0.5-1.5%

OMEGABLUE®: is an Ecocert and Cosmos validated bilberry seed oil, containing similar amount of polyunsaturated fatty acids from the omega-6 and omega-3 series, combining the structural properties of omega-6 fatty acids with the inflammation modulating activity of those from the omega-3 series. It has been clinically shown to be endowed with restructuring properties on challenged skin, improving skin hydration and skin integrity.

Level of use 2-10%

SOOTHINGQUERCEVITA®: is a patented delivery form of quercetine, a very well known antioxidant molecule. Quercevita® in in vitro and clinical trials has shown the ability to inhibit basophil degranulation, modulating skin allergic-like challenges. Clinically it has shown to be beneficial in short-term soothing skin challenges of various origin, thus qualifying as a skin “first aid” relief.

Level of use 0.1-1%

XILOGEL®HS: a highly purified polysaccharide from the seed of Tamarind endowed with a potent hydrating activity overperforming HA and betaglucan in short-term clinical trials. Recommended for clear gels and high concentration serum. It provides a unique velvety and silky sensorial feel.

Level of use 0.1-2%

CHAMOMILE: is a very well known plant, with traditional and current topical uses. This standardized chamomile extract contains apigenin, a flavonoid derivative reported to modulate the inflammation response by inhibiting 5 and 12 lipoxygenase, as well as the transcriptional activation of cycloxygenase. Several clinical studies on different extracts confirm the properties of chamomile and its constituents.

Level of use up to 2%

ESCIN: The topical benefits of escin, or aescin, are demonstrated by scientific studies assessing its swelling modulating and vasoactive properties. It acts principally in capillaries, being its mechanism of action related to the modification of vascular permeability. In fact, it has been shown to reduce the number and the size of the small pores of the capillary walls through which water exchanges normally occur. Escin has also been formulated in the most bioavailable, yet most tolerable, Phytosome® form.

Level of use 0.5-2%

Also in more bioavailable PHYTOSOME® form.

The ingredients described herein are offered for consideration for use in personal care products. The information provided describes historical use, ingredient activity and other information that may be relevant to their use in such products. How each ingredient would contribute to a particular product would be formulation specific. Furthermore please note that this documentation is available for various countries all over the world and hence it may contain statements not applicable to your country.

XILOGEL® - MOISTURIZER

ZANTHALENE® - ANTI–ITCHING, SKIN SENSITIVITY MODULATOR

OMEGABLUE® - SKIN BARRIER RESTRUCTURANT

BOSEXIL® - SOOTHING, LENITIVE

PERSONAL CARE

APPLICATIONS

DPR

0207

- 0

4/20

12*03

/201

7

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