south africa, lesotho & swaziland · south africa, lesotho & swaziland james bainbridge,...

South Africa, Lesotho

& Swaziland

James Bainbridge, Robert Balkovich, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Lucy Corne, Shawn Duthie,

Anthony Ham, Ashley Harrell, Simon Richmond

FreeStatep305

EasternCapep177

NorthernCapep446

Mpumalangap374

WesternCapep108

Lesothop471

Johannesburg& Gauteng

p323

KrugerNational

Parkp395

Swazilandp495

KwaZulu-Natalp236

Limpopop412

North WestProvince

p435

Cape Townp52

Welcome to South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland . . . . .6South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland Map . . . . . . . .8South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland’s Top 25 . . . .10Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 22First Time South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland . . . 24What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 26If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Month by Month . . . . . . . 30Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38Travel with Children . . . . 43Regions at a Glance . . . . 46

CAPE TOWN . . . . . . . 52

WESTERN CAPE . . . 108Winelands . . . . . . . . . . . 109Stellenbosch . . . . . . . . . . . 109Franschhoek . . . . . . . . . . . 118Paarl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Tulbagh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Robertson . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129McGregor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130The Overberg . . . . . . . . .131Kogelberg Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . 131Betty’s Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 133Hermanus . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133

Stanford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137Greyton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140Gansbaai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140Cape Agulhas . . . . . . . . . . 141Arniston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141De Hoop Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . 142Swellendam . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Garden Route . . . . . . . . 144Mossel Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 145George . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Montagu & Outeniqua Passes . . . . 149Herolds Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 149Victoria Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Wilderness . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150

KE

RE

N S

U / G

ET

TY IM

AG

ES ©

ON THE ROAD PLAN YOUR TRIP

WO

LF AV

NI / S

HU

TT

ER

STO

CK

©

UMKHUZE GAME RESERVE P277

RO

GE

R D

E LA H

AR

PE / G

ET

TY IM

AG

ES ©

BATELEUR EAGLE P556

Contents

Garden Route National Park (Wilderness Section) . . . . 152Buffalo Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Knysna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Knysna to Plettenberg Bay . . . . . . . . 158Plettenberg Bay & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Route 62 . . . . . . . . . . . . .161Montagu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Barrydale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164Calitzdorp . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164Oudtshoorn . . . . . . . . . . . . 165Central Karoo . . . . . . . . 167Prince Albert . . . . . . . . . . . 167Karoo National Park . . . . 169

West Coast & Swartland . . . . . . . . . . 170Darling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170West Coast National Park . . . . . . . . . . .171Langebaan . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171Paternoster . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Elands Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173Cederberg Wilderness Area . . . . . . . . 173Citrusdal & Around . . . . . 174Clanwilliam & Around . . . 175

EASTERN CAPE . . . .177Garden Route East . . . . 180Garden Route National Park (Tsitsikamma Section) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180Storms River . . . . . . . . . . . 182Sunshine Coast . . . . . . . 184St Francis Bay . . . . . . . . . . 184Jeffrey’s Bay . . . . . . . . . . . 185Port Elizabeth . . . . . . . . . . 190Addo Elephant National Park . . . . . . . . . . 197Grahamstown . . . . . . . . . .203Port Alfred . . . . . . . . . . . . .206Amathole . . . . . . . . . . . . 209East London . . . . . . . . . . . 210Hogsback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211The Wild Coast . . . . . . . 213Chintsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214Morgan Bay & Kei Mouth . . . . . . . . . . . 217Coffee Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218Mthatha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220Mthatha to Port St Johns . . . . . . . . . . 221Port St Johns . . . . . . . . . . 222Pondoland . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225Northeastern Highlands . . . . . . . . . . . . 226Lady Grey . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226

Rhodes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226Eastern Karoo . . . . . . . . 227Graaff-Reinet . . . . . . . . . . . 227Camdeboo National Park . . . . . . . . . .230Nieu Bethesda . . . . . . . . . 231Mountain Zebra National Park . . . . . . . . . . 233Cradock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234

KWAZULU-NATAL . . . 236Durban . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237South Coast . . . . . . . . . 256Warner Beach . . . . . . . . . . 256Umzumbe & Umtentweni . . . . . . . . . . 257Oribi Gorge . . . . . . . . . . . . 258Margate, Ramsgate & Southbroom . . . . . . . . . 259North Coast . . . . . . . . . . 260Umhlanga Rocks & uMdloti Beach . . . . . . . .260Ballito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262KwaDukuza . . . . . . . . . . . . 262Zululand . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263Mtunzini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263Eshowe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .264Ulundi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266Ithala Game Reserve . . . . 268The Elephant Coast . . . 269Hluhluwe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270iSimangaliso Wetland Park . . . . . . . . . . . 272Tembe Elephant Park . . . 282Ndumo Game Reserve . . 282The Midlands . . . . . . . . . 283Pietermaritzburg . . . . . . . 283Drakensberg & Ukhahlamba- Drakensberg Park . . . . . 287Southern Berg . . . . . . . . . 289

KGALAGADI TRANSFRONTIER PARK P459

Central Berg . . . . . . . . . . .294Northern Berg . . . . . . . . . . 297Battlefields . . . . . . . . . . 299Spioenkop Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . .299Ladysmith . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301Dundee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .302Isandlwana & Rorke’s Drift . . . . . . . . .303Blood River . . . . . . . . . . . .304

FREE STATE . . . . . . . 305Bloemfontein . . . . . . . . 308Northern Free State . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313Parys & Vredefort Dome Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313Eastern Highlands & Southern Free State . . . 315Harrismith . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315Sterkfontein Dam Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . 315Golden Gate Highlands National Park . . . . . . . . . . 316Clarens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317Bethlehem . . . . . . . . . . . . .320Fouriesburg . . . . . . . . . . . .320Ficksburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321Ladybrand . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322Gariep Dam Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . 322Philippolis . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322

JOHANNESBURG & GAUTENG . . . . . . . 323Johannesburg . . . . . . . . . . 326Soweto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 356Pretoria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362

MPUMALANGA . . . . 374Drakensberg Escarpment . . . . . . . . . . 376

Dullstroom . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376Waterval Boven (Emgwenya) . . . . . . . . . . . 378Sabie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379Pilgrim’s Rest . . . . . . . . . . 382Graskop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383Blyde River Canyon . . . . . 385Eastern Lowveld . . . . . . 386Hazyview . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387Nelspruit (Mbombela) . . .388Komatipoort . . . . . . . . . . . 391Barberton . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392

KRUGER NATIONAL PARK . . . 395Private Wildlife Reserves . . . . . 410Sabi Sand Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . 410Manyeleti Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . 411Timbavati Private Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . 411

LIMPOPO . . . . . . . . . 412Polokwane . . . . . . . . . . . 413Bushveld . . . . . . . . . . . . 417Mokopane . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417Bela-Bela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 419

The Waterberg . . . . . . . . .420Soutpansberg . . . . . . . . 422Louis Trichardt . . . . . . . . . 422Musina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 423Mapungubwe National Park . . . . . . . . . . 424Venda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425Valley of the Olifants . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428Letaba Valley . . . . . . . . . . .428Tzaneen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .429Modjadjiskloof . . . . . . . . . 431Phalaborwa . . . . . . . . . . . . 432Hoedspruit . . . . . . . . . . . . 433

NORTH WEST PROVINCE . . . . . . . . 435Rustenburg . . . . . . . . . . . . 437Sun City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .438Pilanesberg National Park . . . . . . . . . .440Madikwe Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . .442Magaliesberg Range . . . .444

NORTHERN CAPE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446Kimberley . . . . . . . . . . . 447

ON THE ROAD

MA

XIM

ILIAN

E WA

GN

ER

/ GE

TT

Y IMA

GES

©

MAPUNGUBWE NATIONAL PARK P424

Contents

The Upper Karoo . . . . . 454Mokala National Park . . . 454Victoria West . . . . . . . . . . . 455The Kalahari . . . . . . . . . 445Kuruman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455Witsand Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . 456Upington . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park . . . . . . 459Augrabies Falls National Park . . . . . . . . . .463Riemvasmaak . . . . . . . . . .464Namakwa & the Hantam Karoo . . . . . . . . 464Springbok . . . . . . . . . . . . .465Port Nolloth . . . . . . . . . . . .466|Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park . . . . . . 467Namaqua National Park . . . . . . . . . .468Calvinia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .469Sutherland . . . . . . . . . . . . . 470

LESOTHO . . . . . . . . . 471Maseru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 475Around Maseru . . . . . . . 480Thaba-Bosiu . . . . . . . . . . .480Roma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .480Morija . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481Northwestern Lesotho . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482Teyateyaneng . . . . . . . . . .482Leribe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .483Butha-Buthe . . . . . . . . . . .483Ts’ehlanyane National Park . . . . . . . . . .484Northeastern Highlands . . . . . . . . . . . . 485Liphofung Cave Cultural & Historical Site . . . . . . . . . .485Oxbow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .485

Mokhotlong . . . . . . . . . . . .486Sani Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 487Central Highlands . . . . 488Bokong Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . .488Katse Dam . . . . . . . . . . . . .489Thaba-Tseka . . . . . . . . . . .489Mohale Dam . . . . . . . . . . .490Semonkong . . . . . . . . . . . .490Southern Lesotho . . . . . 490Malealea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 491Mohale’s Hoek . . . . . . . . . 492Quthing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 492Qacha’s Nek . . . . . . . . . . . 493Sehlabathebe National Park . . . . . . . . . . 493

SWAZILAND . . . . . . 495Mbabane . . . . . . . . . . . . 498Central Swaziland . . . . 500Ezulwini Valley . . . . . . . . .500Lobamba . . . . . . . . . . . . . .503Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary . . . . . .504Malkerns Valley . . . . . . . . .505Manzini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 507Northwestern Swaziland . . . . . . . . . . . . 508Ngwenya . . . . . . . . . . . . . .508Malolotja Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . .509Komati Valley . . . . . . . . . . 510Northeastern Swaziland . . . . . . . . . . . . .511Hlane Royal National Park . . . . . . . . . . 511Mlawula Nature Reserve . . . . . . . . . 512Mbuluzi Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . 513Mkhaya Game Reserve . . . . . . . . . . 513

South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland Today . . . . .516

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .518

Environment . . . . . . . . . 536

Wildlife & Habitat . . . . . 545

Music . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .561

Food & Drink . . . . . . . . . 570

People & Culture . . . . . .577

Safe Travel . . . . . . . . . . . 586

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 589

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 604

Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .621

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 626

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 635

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 646

SURVIVAL GUIDE

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURESWildlife & Habitat . . . . . . . . . . 545

Music . . . . . . . . . . . . . .561

Menu Decoder . . . . . 574

Safe Travel . . . . . . . . . 586

Itineraries

BOTSWANAMOZAMBIQUE

NAMIBIA

SWAZILAND

ZIMBABWE

LESOTHO

Stellenbosch

Johannesburg

CAPETOWN

AT L A N T I CO C E A N I N D I A N

O C E A N

É

É

É

É

#_

#•

#•

FreeState

North West Province

NorthernCape

WesternCape

EasternCape

KrugerNationalPark

#÷

Gauteng

Limpopo

Mpumalanga

KwaZulu-Natal#–

Kruger to Cape

This trip combines wildlife watching with the Cape’s scenery and culture.

Head directly east from Jo’burg’s OR Tambo International Airport to Kruger National Park, where more than 20,000 growly members of the Big Five (lion, leopard, buffalo, elephant and rhino) roam the bushveld. Staying in a bush camp or luxurious private reserve and going on self-drive safaris, guided drives and walks will keep you and your binoculars busy. From Kruger, head back to the bright lights of Jo’burg. Spend a night in the inner-city Maboneng precinct’s art hotel or hostels, experiencing Afro-globalisation and meeting local hipsters in the galleries and bars.

Next, pick up a flight to Cape Town; alternatively, take a scenic overnight train ride in tourist class on Shosholoza Meyl’s trans-Karoo service (or the Blue Train or Rovos Rail from Pretoria). Relax and enjoy one of the world’s most beautiful cities, spending your days exploring the likes of Table Mountain and Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, and your nights dining in world-class restaurants and drinking in the ‘Tavern of the Seven Seas’. The Mother City is surrounded by beaches and vineyards; have lunch in winemaking Stellenbosch and wander the refined Cape Dutch student town’s lanes.

2 WEEKS

32 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Beautiful scenery, excellent infrastructure and numerous attractions make this the South Africa of the glossy brochures. The route can be covered on public transport, but is perfect for a road trip in your own car.

After a few days in Cape Town, fitting in historical and cultural sights such as the Bo-Kaap neighbourhood, Zeitz MOCAA Museum and Irma Stern Museum alongside the scenic Cape Peninsula, head out to the Winelands. Spend a night or two wine tasting in the vineyard-clad valleys of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. From Stellenbosch take Rte 44 for one of the world’s most beautiful coastal drives, to Hermanus, where you can watch southern right whales (June to December). Overnight or stop for lunch in the 19th-century village of Stanford, before making your way to Cape Agulhas, Africa’s southernmost point.

Next, head along the Cogmanskloof Pass in the Langeberg range to countrified Montagu. With its whitewashed cottages and rustic accommodation, the quaint town is a great base for rock climbing and the Robertson Wine Valley. Continue along Rte 62 through the Little Karoo, between rolling mountains dotted with farms and charming little towns such as port-making Calitzdorp.

Cross the Swartberg range on the Meiringspoort Pass, from Oudtshoorn to the Great Karoo and Prince Albert. This pretty 18th-century village is green and fertile, with irrigation channels in the streets. The nearby N1 highway leads back to Cape Town; al-ternatively, backtrack south, possibly via the untarred Swartberg Pass, to Wilderness’ beaches and lagoons. East along the Garden Route, old-growth forests rise into the moun-tains above Knysna and Plettenberg Bay, both offering water sports and activities.

Finally, descend a windy road to the beach village of Nature’s Valley, where happy hikers finishing the five-day Otter Trail hang their boots in a tree outside the pub. Short-er hikes also lead into the surrounding Garden Route National Park (Tsitsikamma Section).

2½ WEEKS

PrinceAlbert

Franschhoek

Hermanus

Knysna

Montagu

PlettenbergBay

StellenboschCAPE

TOWN

Nature'sValley

NorthernCape

WesternCape

EasternCape

Meiringspoort Pass

Swartberg Pass

Wilderness

Cape Agulhas

I N D I A NO C E A N

#•

#•

#•Calitzdorp

#•

#•

#•#_ #•

#•

#•#•

#•

#•

AT L A N T I CO C E A N

CogmanskloofPass

#•Stanford

Garden RouteNational Park(TsitsikammaSection)

#•

#÷

FalseBay

É

É

ÉÉ

É

É

É

É

É#•

Cape Cruise

33PLAN

YOUR TRIP It

Ine

ra

rIe

s

South Africa is one of the continent’s best safari destinations – in a fortnight it’s possible to cover several parks and reserves, plus a few extra stops such as the dramatic Blyde River Canyon.

From Jo’burg’s OR Tambo International Airport, head east to the country’s safari showpiece, Kruger National Park. The wildlife here and in the adjoining private wildlife reserves will hold you captivated. Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, near Kruger’s southern and central sections, offers views of the river as it snakes from the Drakensberg Escarpment to the lowveld. Stay overnight in nearby Graskop, a good base for outdoor activities and a visit to Pilgrim’s Rest, a 19th-century gold-rush village.

If time is tight, hit the N4 west for wildlife watching on sealed roads in Pilanesberg National Park, within four hours’ drive of OR Tambo International Airport. Stay in the Big Five park or the adjoining Sun City casino complex. A little further, Madikwe Game Reserve is an exclusive destination with accommodation in five-star lodges (and one ecolodge).

If you have a full two weeks, head south from the Kruger area to Swaziland’s Malolotja Nature Reserve, where hiking trails cross grasslands and forests, and along the Ezulwini and Malkerns valleys – stop to admire the woodlands and pick up local craftwork. Swaziland’s highlight is the wildlife-rich Mkhaya Game Reserve, known for its unsurpassed black and white rhino populations. Explore the bushveld thickets and open veld on a guided walking safari.

Leaving Swaziland, hit the N2 to uMkhuze Game Reserve, where animals lap at waterholes in pans surrounded by fever trees. Nearby are the waterways and diverse eco-systems of iSimangaliso Wetland Park, and Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, where hiking the wilderness trails is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. From there, continue south along the Indian Ocean to Durban’s well-connected airport and beaches, restaurants and bars.

2 WEEKS

#

#

•

•

BOTSWANA

LESOTHO

MOZAMBIQUE

SWAZILAND

ZIMBABWE

Durban

JohannesburgMalolotja Nature Reserve

Madikwe Game

Reserve Pilanesberg

National Park

Ezulwini andMalkerns Valleys Mkhaya

Game Reserve

uMkhuzeGame ReserveiSimangaliso Wetland Park

Hluhluwe-iMfolozi

Park

Kruger National Park

KwaZulu-Natal

Free State

Mpumalanga

Gauteng

Limpopo

North West Province

NorthernCape

#÷

#•#÷

#÷

#÷

#÷

#÷#÷

GraskopPilgrim's Rest

Blyde RiverCanyon

Nature Reserve

#•Sun City

#•

#•

#÷#÷#•#•

É

ÉÉ

É

É

É

É

É

Safari Special

34

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

er

ar

Ies

This epic itinerary covers the bottom half of South Africa, including Wild Coast beaches, the Karoo semidesert and mountainous Lesotho.

From Cape Town head along Rte 62 and over the Swartberg Pass to Prince Albert. Venture further into the Great Karoo’s open spaces to reach the refined oasis of Graaff-Reinet, nicknamed the ‘jewel of the Karoo’ for its 220-plus national monuments and his-tory stretching back to 1786. Also in this corner of the Karoo are Camdeboo National Park, with Cape buffaloes and the Valley of Desolation’s views over the plains, and arty Nieu Bethesda, home of the sculpture-adorned Owl House. Stop at Mountain Zebra National Park for cheetah tracking and more Karoo panoramas, or continue straight to Addo Elephant National Park, where great white sharks and southern right whales complete the ‘Big Seven’.

Moving east, the Amathole Mountains are worth an inland detour for the eco- backpackers in Hogsback and Elundini. Staying in a rondavel hut by a Wild Coast beach is likely to be a trip highlight when mixed with cultural experiences and community- run activities. Heading north to the jagged green sweep of the iconic Drak-ensberg, take South Africa’s highest pass, the Sani Pass (2876m), to Lesotho, where Africa’s highest pub awaits.

Hiking and pony trekking in altitudinous Lesotho, you will meet Basotho people clad in conical hats and patterned woollen blankets. Spend at least a few days crossing the mountain kingdom, stopping at beautiful lodges in the likes of Ts’ehlanyane National Park and Malealea. Pass your last Lesothan night among sandstone cliffs in Roma, a 19th-century mission station and now the country’s seat of learning.

Over the international border, zip through the Free State’s shimmering golden fields to the Northern Cape and its capital, Kimberley. The city that witnessed the world’s great-est diamond rush is a great place to get a feel for South African history. From here, Sho-sholoza Meyl’s trans-Karoo Express will whisk you back to Cape Town (or up to Jo’burg).

4 WEEKS

#

#

#

_

•

•

LESOTHO

NAMIBIA

CAPETOWN

Graaff-Reinet

PrinceAlbert

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

#_

#•

#•

Addo Elephant National Park

KwaZulu-Natal

Free State

NorthernCape

WesternCape

EasternCape

Kimberley

Roma

NieuBethesda

Mountain Zebra National Park

Wild Coast

SaniPass

CamdebooNational

Park

#÷


#÷

#÷#•Hogsback#•

Elundini

Ts'ehlanyaneNational Park

#÷

#•MalealeaDrakensberg

É

É

É

É

É

É

É

ÉÉÉ

É

É

Grand Circuit

35PLAN

YOUR TRIP It

Ine

ra

rIe

s

This eastern jaunt mixes awesome mountain scenery with Xhosa and Zulu culture, and rural calm with urban vibes, giving a good look at the classic South Africa.

After touching down at OR Tambo International Airport, linger a few days in dynamic Jo’burg, seeing how urban regeneration is transforming the inner city and creating hip enclaves of restaurants and bars. Go on a city walking tour or head out to South Africa’s most famous township, Soweto.

Moving on from Jozi, cross the Free State and leave the N3 at Harrismith, to take scenic Rte 712 past Sterkfontein Dam to Clarens. The arty town, with its galleries and microbrewery, has surroundings worthy of an impressionist landscape. Next, stay in a chalet in the nearby Golden Gate Highlands National Park, with its hiking trails between sandstone outcrops in the foothills of the Maluti Mountains bordering Lesotho.

Just outside the park, the day-long Sentinel Hiking Trail climbs the iconic Amphi-theatre to the top of the Drakensberg Escarpment. Next, spend a couple of days enjoying the spectacular Drakensberg day walks, such as Tugela Gorge, in Royal Natal National Park. Declimatise from the Draks on the twee Midlands Meander, with its guesthouses and ceramic studios, before hitting Durban, a city of beaches and Indian cuisine that is slowly being revitalised.

Near the Eastern Cape border, Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve is an oft-overlooked reserve with cliffs and forests above the Umzilkulwana River. From here, detour off the N2 and along the coast through Pondoland to Port St Johns – a laid-back introduc-tion to the Wild Coast’s pristine beaches and friendly Xhosa locals. Pastel rondavel huts dot the green hills overlooking the region’s gravel roads, which lead to some stunning community-run hostels around Coffee Bay.

At the southern end of the Wild Coast, spend a final night by the Indian Ocean in Chint-sa, and pick up a plane, train or bus from nearby East London to Jo’burg or Cape Town.

3 WEEKS

#

#

#

#

#

•

•

•

•

•

LESOTHO

MOZAMBIQUESWAZILANDSoweto

EastLondon

Clarens

Port St Johns

Durban

#•

#•

#•

#•

#•

KwaZulu-Natal

Free State

Mpumalanga

Gauteng

North West Province

NorthernCape

EasternCape

#÷

Golden GateHighlands

National Park

#•SentinelHikingTrail #÷

Royal Natal National Park

#÷Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve


#•Johannesburg

#•MidlandsMeander

Chintsa

Coffee Bay#•

#•

É

É

É

É

É

É

É

Eastern Wander

36

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

er

ar

Ies

#_

BOTSWANA

LESOTHO

MOZAMBIQUE

NAMIBIA SWAZILAND

CAPETOWN

Port Nolloth

Calvinia

Matjiesfontein

Namakwa

Upington

AT L A N T I CO C E A N #•

#•

#_

North West Province

NorthernCape

WesternCape

EasternCape

|Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld

TransfrontierPark

#÷

#÷

#÷ #÷

Augrabies Falls National Park

Kgalagadi Transfrontier

Park

CederbergWilderness Area

WitsandNatureReserve

#÷

# ##

#

#_ ••

•

•

Greyton

McGregor

Hermanus

CAPETOWN

#÷

KarooNational

Park

#•

#•

ÉÉ

É

É

É

É

É

É

É

É

Paternoster

Tulbagh

WesternCape

CapeHangklip

KogelbergBiosphere

Reserve

BoesmanskloofTrail

NorthernCape

#÷

#_ #• #•#•

#•

#÷ #•

#•

#• #•

AT L A N T I CO C E A N

West CoastNationalPark

Franschhoek

É

É

É

É

É

É

With its mountains, culture and wine, the Western Cape is a justly popular holiday destination. This itinerary suggests a few spots to escape the crowds alongside some old favourites.

From Cape Town, head north to the West Coast National Park, which offers a glimpse of the spring wildflower bloom alongside Langebaan Lagoon. Overnight here or in Paternoster, with its white-washed cottages and glorious beaches.

Turning inland, mountain ranges sur-round the wineries of Tulbagh. Further into the Winelands, Franschhoek distils the area’s refined charm, with its Hugue-not heritage, vineyards and restaurants. Cross the Franschhoek Pass to the village of Greyton, for thatched cottages, restau-rants, mountain views and Genadendal Mission Station. The Boesmanskloof Trail leads hikers to the New Age village of McGregor.

Return to Cape Town via Hermanus, the world’s best land-based whale-watch-ing destination (June to December), and along Rte 44, passing Cape Hangklip and Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve.

1 WEEK Alternative Cape

Some of South Africa’s gnarliest terrain is found in the vast Northern Cape province, which this itinerary tours in conjunction with the Western Cape’s wilder corners.

From Cape Town, head north to the mountainous Cederberg Wilderness Area, with its sandstone formations, lodges and campgrounds. Continue to the Hantam Karoo outpost of Calvinia, be-fore hitting the N7 through the Namakwa region, its rocky expanses carpeted with wildflowers in spring. Almost at the end of the region’s straight roads is remote Port Nolloth. If you have a 4WD, continue to the surreal mountain desert of |Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park.

Head east to Augrabies Falls Nation-al Park for hiking, rafting and canoeing, followed by a sunset cruise in Upington. Continue north through the Kalahari to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, an excellent place to spot big cats, and see more of the thirsty semidesert at Witsand Nature Reserve. Return to Cape Town via the Great Karoo, with stops includ-ing Karoo National Park and historic Matjiesfontein.

2½ WEEKS

The Wild Northwest

37PLAN

YOUR TRIP It

Ine

ra

rIe

s

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

633633

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Adrian Solitander, Amanda Captain, Andre Sennema, Andrew Spence, Anthony Loftus, Ben Furstenau, Brian McCollom, Camilla Hughes, Christian Ungruhe, Craig Steiner, Greg Poole, Henriette Poelman, James Timmis, Jeremy Marx, Ludo van Mil, Mariska de Beer, Megan Harris, Petra O’Neill, Rafael Serrano, Thomas Dijkema, Vera de Visser

WRITER THANKSJames BainbridgeThanks in 11 languages to my fellow writers Simon, Lucy, Shawn and Ashley for beers and banter in the Southern Suburbs during this update; to the rest of the writer team for your contributions; to everyone who helped me on the road in Mpumalanga and Cape Town; and to Leigh-Robin, Oliver and Thomas for putting up with my long hours typing in the garden shed.

Robert BalkovichThank you to my mother and father. To my sister for always coming along for the ride. To everybody I met along the way, especially all of the South Africans who were eager to learn where I was coming from, and thrilled to show me their beautiful country. Especially

to Christos, Chad, Hanli and Nonhlanhla for making the planet seem less lonely.

Jean-Bernard CarilletA huge thanks to everyone who helped out and made this trip an enlightenment, especially Doné, Renée, Esti, Leigh and all of the people I met on the road. At Lonely Planet I’m grateful to Matt for his trust, and to the hard-working editors. At home, a gros bisou to Eva and lots of love to Morgane, whose support was essential.

Lucy CorneHuge thanks to the team in Kimberley – Dianna, Romano, Kim, Joy and Tebogo – and to Fayroush, Christa, Brian and Nadia at SAN Parks. Baie dankie to Ailsa Tudhope for making me fall in love all over again with Prince Albert, and to Johan, Debbie, Martiens and Cathy for making my life easier on the road. Big love to Shawn, who didn’t help because he was busy with his own chapter, and a huge high five to Kai, who makes a pretty awesome travel buddy and helps me to see everything through the eyes of a four-year-old.

Shawn DuthieMany thanks to Matt and the team at Lonely Planet for their great help and support, as always. In Swaziland, a massive thank you to Xolani and Nikki at Big Game Parks. Finally, thank you to Lucy and Kai, my inspirations for everything I do.

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

634

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Anthony HamHeartfelt thanks to Matt Phillips, my Africa friend and editor of long standing for con-tinuing to entrust me with a corner of the earth I adore. To my family, Marina, Carlota and Valentina: thank you for sharing my love of Africa and for giving me so many special memories there.

Ashley HarrellThanks to: editor Matt Phillips for trusting me with a piece of Africa; the Peace Corps crew (Gaby, Ryan and Hindrik) for their invaluable input; everyone at Semonkong Lodge for helping with my destroyed rental car; Madeline Moitozo and Nikki Gamer for the highly amusing company; Anne Kamau Isavwa (and Tony, Ella and Joshua) for letting me move in for a second; MAF for showing me Lesotho from the air; and Belinda Groves for renewing my faith in human goodness.

Simon RichmondMany thanks for the help, friendship and advice from the following: fellow writers James and Lucy, Heather Mason, Bheki Dube, Gerald Garner, Mike Luptak, Sheryl Ozinsky, Nicole Biondi, Iain Harris, Lee Harris, Brent Meersman and Amber April.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘ Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.

Cover photograph: Giraffe, Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park; Christopher Scott/Getty Images ©.

THIS BOOKThis 11th edition of Lonely Planet’s South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland guidebook was researched and written by James Bainbridge, Robert Balkovich, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Lucy Corne, Shawn Duthie, Anthony Ham, Ashley Harrell and Simon Richmond. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Matt PhillipsSenior Product Editor Elizabeth Jones Product Editor Carolyn Boicos Senior Cartographer Diana Von HoldtBook Designer Lauren EganAssisting Editors Andrew Bain, Michelle Bennett, Peter Cruttenden, Jacqueline Danam, Andrea Dobbin, Samantha

Forge, Emma Gibbs, Jennifer Hattam, Cath Lanigan, Louise McGregor, Kate Morgan, Gabrielle Stefanos, Simon Williamson Assisting Cartographers Laura Bailey, Anita Banh Cover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Ronan Abaya-wickrema, Andi Jones, Kate Kiely, Kate Mathews, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Kirsten Rawlings, Alison Ridgway

635

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

!Khwa ttu 1721820 Settlers National

Monument 203

Aaardwolves 555abseiling 57accessible travel 600-1accommodation 24-5,

589-92, see also individual locations

language 626activities 30-1, 38-42, see

also individual activitiesAddo Elephant National

Park 16, 197-203, 16, 201African fish eagles 556, 556African National Congress

(ANC) 525-8, 531African penguins 559,

74, 558African wild dogs 555, 555Afrikaans language 626-8Agulhas National Park 141|Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld

Transfrontier Park 467-8AIDS 516-17, 534, 535, 623air travel 605-6, 610Akkerendam Nature Reserve

469Aliwal Shoal 257Amathole 209-13amusement parks 70, 246Anglo-Boer Wars 302, 308,

523-4animals 27, 536-8, 545-60,

see also individual speciesantelopes 550, 13, 550-1apartheid 335, 526-30,

532-3Apartheid Museum 335,

342-3aquariums 63-4archaeological sites, see

also rock artCradle of Humankind 21,

360, 21

Echo Caves 385Ithala Game Reserve 268Kitching Fossil Exploration

Centre 232Makapan’s Caves 418Mapungubwe National

Park 424-5Sterkfontein Caves 360West Coast Fossil Park

171-2Wonderwerk Cave 457

architecture 583-4area codes 23, 598Arniston 141-2art galleries 29, see

also museumsAHEM! Art Collective 101Art Gallery (Durban) 240Art It Is 101Arts on Main 334Campbell Collections 241Ceramics Gallery 118-19CIRCA Gallery 340Duggan-Cronin Gallery

451Everard Read 340Goodman Gallery Cape 101Guga S’Thebe Arts &

Cultural Centre 73Hazard 335Johannesburg Art Gallery

327Kwazulu Natal Society of

Arts 241Mirrors Gallery & Crystal

Corner 211Nelson Mandela

Metropolitan Art Museum 191

Oliewenhuis Art Museum 308

Pretoria Art Museum 363-4Republic of Rustica 469Rust en Vreugd 63South African National

Gallery 61South African Print

Gallery 101Spaza Art Gallery 340Stevenson (Cape Town)

101

Stevenson (Johannesburg) 340

Tatham Art Gallery 284Thohoyandou Arts &

Culture Centre 426William Humphreys Art

Gallery 451arts 581-4, see also

individual artsATM scams 587ATMs 596Augrabies Falls National

Park 463-4

Bbaboons 549, 548-9Babylonstoren 122Bainskloof Pass 125Ballito 262ballooning 123, 229Barberton 392-4, 393Barberton Makhonjwa

Geotrail 394bargaining 25Barrydale 164Basotho blankets 484Basotho Cultural Village

16, 16Basotho people 474, 487bateleur eagles 556, 2, 545 bathrooms 600Bathurst 206battlefields

Blood River 302, 304Colenso 302Elandlaagte 302Isandlwana 302, 303-4Laing’s Nek,

Schuinshoogte & Majuba 302

Magersfontein 451Rorke’s Drift 302, 304Spioenkop 302Talana 302Ulundi 267

Battlefields region 299-304, 300

Baviaanskloof Wilderness Area 183

beachesArniston 142Cape Town 53, 70Cape Vidal 276Clifton 4th Beach 65Durban 244-6Langebaan 171Muizenberg Beach 70-1Port Alfred 206Port Elizabeth 190Port St Johns 222uMdloti Beach 260Warner Beach 256-7

bearded vultures 556, 556-7Beaver Creek 259beer 327, 572, see

also breweriesBela-Bela 419-20Belvidere 153Bergville 297Bethel 492Bethlehem 320Betty’s Bay 133bicycle travel, see cyclingBig Hole 447Big Tree 182Biko, Steve 530bilharzia 624birds 538, 556-9, 545,

556-9birdwatching 38-9

Agulhas National Park 141Bird Island 173Birds of Eden 159Boulders Penguin Colony

69Cape of Good Hope 69Dlinza Forest Reserve 265Dullstroom Bird of Prey &

Rehabilitation Centre 377

Dwesa Nature Reserve 218iSimangaliso Wetland

Park 272-3Kruger National Park 401Ndumo Game Reserve

282-3Ngoboseleni Trail 280


636

IND

EX B-D

birdwatching continuedSpioenkop Nature

Reserve 299Umgeni River Bird

Park 241uMkhuze Game Reserve

277Walker Bay Nature

Reserve 140-1West Coast National

Park 171World of Birds 67

Black Rock 281Bloemfontein 308-13, 310-11Blood River 304Blue Train 619Blyde River Canyon 15,

385-6, 15, 28boat travel 609-10, 611boat trips

Cape Town 72-3Durban 246, 247iSimangaliso Wetland

Park 273Kalahari 457Knysna 153, 155Port Alfred 206St Francis Bay 184-5

Boer Wars, see Anglo-Boer Wars

Bo-Kaap 61Bokong Nature Reserve

488Bontebok National Park

143-4books 516

cooking 572, 575culture 579environmental issues 543health 622history 520, 521, 524,

526, 527, 528, 531, 532literature 582-3politics 533wine 572

border crossings 606-7Botha, PW 531-2 Boulders Penguin Colony

69, 74, 558Bourke’s Luck Potholes 385braai 571, 574brandy 572breweries 137, 153,

170, 572, see also distilleries, wineries

bubblegum music 567budgeting 23, 591, 593Buffalo Bay 152

Buganu Festival 502Bulungula 219bungee jumping 180bunny chow 251bus travel 26, 608, 611-12,

617bushbabies 549Bushman’s Nek 294Bushveld 417-22bushwalking, see hikingbusiness hours 597Butha-Buthe 483-4

CCalitzdorp 164-5Calvinia 469-70Camdeboo National Park

230-1camping 590-1canoeing 39, see

also kayakingKowie Canoe Trail 207Shipwreck Hiking &

Canoe Trail 207canyoning 41, 159Cape Agulhas 141Cape Floral Kingdom 539Cape of Good Hope 69Cape St Francis 184Cape Town 11, 46, 52-107,

54-5, 58-9, 62-3, 66, 68, 82-3, 10-11, 74-5

accommodation 52, 80-6

activities 71-8children, travel with 70climate 52drinking & nightlife 94-7entertainment 97-100festivals & events

78-80, 98food 52, 86-93highlights 54-5history 53LGBT travellers 104-5markets 70, 10medical services 106safety 106shopping 100-6sights 53, 56-71tourist information 106tours 78township tours 72-3travel seasons 52travel to/from 106travel within 106-7

Cape Vidal 276Cape vultures 422car travel 376, 608-9, 612-17caracals 547, 547carjacking 616

casinos 439Castor & Pollux 301Cathedral Peak Nature

Reserve 294cats 547, 546-7caves, see also rock art

Bats Cave 276Battle Cave 296Echo Caves 385Klipgat Caves 140-1Main Cave (Giant’s

Castle) 297Makapan’s Caves 418Mapuzi Caves 219Pinnacle Point Caves 145Stadsaal Caves 174Sterkfontein Caves 360Waenhuiskrans Cave 141-2Wonderwerk Cave 457

Cederberg Wilderness Area 18, 173-4, 18, 138

cell phones 598-9Central Berg 294-7Ceres 619chacma baboons 549,

548-9Champagne Valley 295-6Chapman’s Peak Drive 78Charters Creek 277cheetahs 233, 269, 459,

547, 546children, travel with 43-5chimpanzees 388Chintsa 214-17cholera 623churches

Anglican Church 313Belvidere Church 153Dutch Reformed Church

228St John’s Church 420

cider 572cinema 563, 581-2Citrusdal 174-5Clanwilliam 175-6Clarens 14, 317-19, 318, 14climate 22, 30, 31, see

also individual regionsclimate change 543climbing 42, 71-2, 161-

2, 379Coastal Forest 281Coetzee, JM 582Coffee Bay 218-19Coffeebeans Routes 327Constantia 65consulates 592-4cookbooks 572, 575costs 23, 591, 593, 595courses

cooking 575language 594

Cradle of Humankind 21, 360, 21

Cradock 234-5credit cards 596cricket 99, 582crime 586-8Crocodile River 391cruises 609-10, 611, see

also boat tripsCullinan 366culture 27, 577-84currency 595, 597customs regulations 592cycling 606, 611, see

also mountain bikingCape Town 73Durban 246Franschhoek 121Prince Albert 168Tulbagh 128

Ddance 584dangers, see safety Darling 170-1De Hoop Nature Reserve

142De Kelders 140dengue fever 623deserts 560diamond mines 366, 524Die Antwoord 568difaqane 522dinosaur footprints 483, 492disabilities, travellers with

600-1distilleries 432, see

also breweries, wineriesdiving & snorkelling 39,

538Cape Town 73-6iSimangaliso Wetland

Park 273Port Elizabeth 191Sodwana Bay 280South Coast 257

dolphin watching iSimangaliso Wetland

Park 273M Kambati Nature

Reserve 225Plettenberg Bay 157Port Elizabeth 191St Francis Bay 184

donkeys 130Drakensberg 12, 287-99,

290, 12Drakensberg Escarpment

376-86, 377Drakenstein Correctional

Centre 125drinks 28-9, 571-3, 576


637IN

DEX -D

-Hdriving, see car traveldrugs 588Duiker Island 72, 76Dullstroom 376-8Dundee 302-3Durban 26, 237, 240-56,

242-3, 244-5, 248accommodation 248-50activities 246-7drinking & nightlife 252-3emergency services 254entertainment 253festivals & events 248food 250-2history 240medical services 254safety 254shopping 253-4sights 240-6street names 240tourist information 254-5tours 247-8travel to/from 255-6travel within 256

Dwarsrivier Farm 175Dwesa Nature Reserve 218

Eeagles 556, 2, 545, 556East London 210-11Eastern Cape 47, 177-235,

178-9accommodation 177climate 177food 177highlights 178-9language 180travel seasons 177travel to/within 180

Eastern Highlands 315-22, 316-17

Eastern Lowveld 386-94, 377economy 577-8Ecoshrine 211Elands Bay 173electricity 592Elephant Coast 269-83,

266-7elephantiasis 623elephants 537, 552

Addo Elephant National Park 16, 197-203, 16, 201

Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park 18, 270-2, 18

Ithala Game Reserve 268-9

Kruger National Park 396Madikwe Game Reserve

443

Makuleke Contract Park 408

Pilanesberg National Park 440

Tembe Elephant Park 282Elgin Valley 136Elim 428Elundini 213Emakhosini Ophathe

Heritage Park 267-8embassies 592-4embroidery 429emergencies 23, 627environmental issues 541-4

climate change 543drought 541, 544endangered species 537green initiatives 543ivory trading 537rhino poaching 542sustainable fishing 573

Eshowe 264-5eSwatini, see Swazilandetiquette 25events 30-1exchange rates 23Ezulwini Valley 500-3, 501

FFani’s Island 277festivals & events 30-1Ficksburg 321films 516, 563, 581-2fishing 39-40, 226, 246,

273, 376, 428, 573flamingoes 559, 558-9food 25, 28-9, 570-6,

see also individual locations

books 572costs 593courses 575language 574-6, 626-7

football 475, 582Fort Klapperkop 373Fouriesburg 320-1Franschhoek 118-23, 119,

138Free State 48, 305-22,

306-7accommodation 305climate 305food 305highlights 306-7history 308language 308tourist information 308travel seasons 305travel to/from 308

Freedom Park 362-3, 342fynbos 560

GGamkaskloof 168Gamtoos Valley 183Gandhi, Mohandas

(Mahatma) 241, 284, 340, 526

Gansbaai 140-1Garden Route 16, 144-61,

146-7Garden Route East 180-4Garden Route National

Park (Tsitsikamma Section) 180-2, 16

Garden Route National Park (Wilderness Section) 152

gardens, see parks & gardens

Gariep Dam Nature Reserve 322

Gauteng 48, 323-73, 324-5accommodation 323climate 323food 323highlights 324-5history 326LGBT travellers 351travel seasons 323

gay travellers 595Cape Town 104-5Johannesburg 351Pretoria 351

gemsboks 550Genadendal 140geography 536geology 536George 148-9Giant Flag 231Giant’s Castle 296-7giraffes 552, 552-3

Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park 270-2

Oceana Beach & Wildlife Reserve 206

Spioenkop Nature Reserve 299-300

God’s Window 385Goegap Nature Reserve 465Golden Gate Highlands

National Park 16, 316-17golf 70, 246, 432Gordimer, Nadine 582gospel music 566government 525-35Graaff-Reinet 227-30, 228Grabouw 136Grahamstown 203-6, 204Graskop 383-5, 383Graskop Gorge 383Great Limpopo

Transfrontier Park 396, 539, 542

greater galagoes 549green initiatives 543Greyton 140ground hornbills 559, 558

HHaenertsburg 428-9Hantam Karoo 464-70Harrismith 315Hartbeespoort Dam 444Hazyview 387-8health 275, 621-5heat exhaustion 625heatstroke 625Hemel-en-Aarde 133hepatitis 623Hermanus 133-7, 134-5, 139Herolds Bay 149-50hiking 26, 40-1

Afriski Mountain Resort 485

|Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park 467

Amathole Trail 212Augrabies Falls National

Park 463Barberton Makhonjwa

Geotrail 394Belvedere Day Walk 386Boesmanskloof Trail 130Bokong Nature Reserve

488Cape of Good Hope

Trail 69Cederberg 18Chokka Trail 184Cliff Path Walking Trail

134Crag Lizard Trail 231Crayfish Trail 173Dokolewa Waterfall

Trail 429Dolphin Trail 181Eerstefontein Day Trail

231Elephant Day Walks 153Elijah Mbonane 298Garden of Eden 153Giant’s Cup Trail 293Goegap Nature Reserve

465Green Mountain Trail 136Guinea-Fowl Trail 386Hanglip Trail 422Harkerville Coastal

Trail 153Hlane Royal National

Park 512Hluhluwe-iMfolozi

Park 271Hodgson’s Peaks 487Kadishi-Tufa Trail 386

638

IND

EX H-K

Klipspringer Trail 463Kruger National Park

399-401Leopard Kloof Trail 133Leopard Trail 386Lion’s Head 76Louis Changuion Trail 428Lourie Trail 386Malealea 491Malolotja Nature Reserve

510Maltese Cross Trail 174Millwood Gold Mine

Walk 153Mkhaya Game Reserve

514Mlilwane Wildlife

Sanctuary 504-5Mountain Zebra National

Park 233-4Ngwempisi Gorge 506Oakes Falls 130-1Otter Trail 181Outeniqua Trail 153Oystercatcher Trail 145Port St Johns 223Rasperpunt Trail 141Rhebok Hiking Trail 316Sabie 380safety 77, 295, 587-8Sani Top 487Sentinel Hiking Trail 320Sevilla Rock Art Trail

175-6Shipwreck Hiking &

Canoe Trail 207Strandloper Hiking

Trail 214Sundowner Trail 214Swellendam Hiking

Trail 143Table Mountain National

Park 56-7, 76-7Thabana-Ntlenyana 487Ts’ehlanyane National

Park 484Tsitsikamma Mountain

Trail 181uKhahlamba Drakensberg

Park 288-9Whale Trail 142Wild Coast 12Wolfberg Arch Trail 174

Himeville 291-3hippos 282-3, 391, 408,

552, 553historic buildings & sites

012central 363Blood River Heritage

Site 304

Cape Town City Hall 56Chancellor House 327Church Square 203City Hall (Durban) 240Cosmopolitan, the 335Drakenstein Correctional

Centre 125Fort (Ladysmith) 301Houses of Parliament 57Joubert House 162KwaNodwengu 267Melrose House 363Mgungundlovu 268No. 7 Castle Hill 191Old Harbour 133-4Ondini 267Owl House 232Prestwich Memorial 61Sugar Terminal 243Talana Heritage Park &

Battlefield 302history 27-8, 518-35

African National Congress (ANC) 525-8, 531

Anglo-Boer Wars 302, 308, 523-4

apartheid 526-30, 532-3Battle of Blood River

522-3books 520, 521, 524,

526, 527, 528, 531, 532British arrival 521-2democracy 532-5difaqane 522European settlement

520-1Great Trek 522-3homelands 527, 529internet resources 518,

520, 525Iron Age kingdoms

519-20Lesotho 474-5San people 518-19Swaziland 497-8Truth & Reconciliation

Commission 534hitching 617HIV 516-17, 534, 535, 623Hlane Royal National Park

511-12Hluhluwe 269-70Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park

18, 270-2, 271, 18, 279, 560

Hoedspruit 433-4Hogsback 211-13Hole in the Wall 219holidays 598honey badgers 555, 554

horse riding 41, see also pony trekking

Addo Elephant National Park 199

Cape Town 77Franschhoek 121Hogsback 212KwaZulu-Natal 273,

295, 298Limpopo 420Maseru 475-6Mlilwane Wildlife

Sanctuary 504Mpumalanga 377, 379Port Alfred 207Robertson 129Ts’ehlanyane National

Park 484hot springs 464Hout Bay Harbour 65hyenas 555

IImhoff Farm 71immigration 45, 601, 604-5immunisations 622impalas 550, 551Incwala 502Injisuthi 296insect bites & stings 625insurance 594

health 621vehicle 614

internet access 594internet resources 23, 596

environmental issues 539health 621history 518, 520, 525music 562

Isandlwana 303-4iSimangaliso Wetland

Park 14, 272-82, 274, 14, 279

Ithala Game Reserve 268-9itineraries 32-7ivory trading 537

Jjazz music 565Jeffrey’s Bay 185-90, 186,

200Johannesburg 19, 48,

323-56, 324-5, 328-9, 332-3, 336, 339, 19, 342-3

accommodation 323, 337-44, 354

climate 323drinking & nightlife

348-51emergency services 354

entertainment 351-2festivals & events 31,

336-7, 340food 323, 344-8highlights 324-5history 326LGBT travellers 351markets 353medical services 354safety 354shopping 352-4sights 326-35tourist information 354tours 335-6travel seasons 323travel to/from 354-5travel within 355-6

Jonker, Ingrid 583Jonkershoek Nature

Reserve 109June 16 Memorial Acre 357

KKabeljous Estuary 185Kagga Kamma 128Kalahari 455-64Kalk Bay Harbour 71Kaphunga 507Karoo, Central 167-9Karoo, Eastern 227-35Karoo National Park 169Karoo, Upper 454-5Kassiesbaai 142Katse Dam 489kayaking 39, see

also canoeingCape Town 77-8Knysna 155Paternoster 173

Kei Mouth 217-18Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

13, 459-62, 460, 13 Khomani San people 459Kimberley 447-53, 450Kirstenbosch National

Botanical Garden 67, 69, 75

Kirstenbosch Summer Sunset Concerts 31, 568

kitesurfing 78, 247Klein River Cheese Farm 137Klipspringer’s Pass 169Kliptown 358kloofing 41Knysna 152-8, 154, 157,

138-9Ko Kasi 456Kogelberg Nature Reserve

131Kokerboom Food & Wine

Route 462Komati Valley 510-11


639IN

DEX K

-M

Komatipoort 391-2Kosi Bay 281-2Kruger National Park 11,

49, 395-411, 397, 398, 404-5, 11

accommodation 395, 402-8, 409

activities 397-401children, travel with 409climate 395disabilities, travellers

with 409emergency services 409entry times 409food 395, 402-8highlights 397history 396private reserves 410-11sights 396-7tours 401-2travel seasons 395travel to/within 409-10

Kuruman 455-6KwaDukuza 262-3kwaito music 562-3, 567-8KwaZulu-Natal 26, 47,

236-304, 238-9accommodation 236climate 236, 237food 236highlights 238-9history 237language 237travel seasons 236travel to/within 237

kwela music 562, 564

LLady Grey 226Ladybrand 322Ladysmith 301Ladysmith Black Mambazo

561-2, 566L’Agulhas 141Lake Fundudzi 427-8Lake Sibaya 281Lala Nek 281Lammergeier Hide 297Langa 73Langebaan 171-2Langebaan Lagoon 171languages 22, 25, 626-32

courses 594food 574-6, 626-7

lappet-faced vultures 556legal matters 594-5leopards 547

Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park 270

Kruger National Park 396, 11, 547

Lionsrock 320Makuleke Contract

Park 408Tembe Elephant Park 282

Leribe 483lesbian travellers 595

Cape Town 104-5Johannesburg 351Pretoria 351

Leshiba Wilderness 423Lesotho 17, 50, 471-94, 517,

472-3, 17, 40accommodation 471climate 471, 475economy 578embassies & consulates

593food 471highlights 472history 474-5language 475legal matters 594literature 583money 597music 568-9public holidays 598safety 587-8telephone services 598-9trading posts 17travel seasons 471travel to/from 475travel within 475

lesser flamingoes 559, 558-9

Letaba Valley 428-9LGBT travellers 595

Cape Town 104-5Johannesburg 351Pretoria 351

lighthouses 141, 184lilac-breasted rollers 559,

559Liliesleaf Farm 335Limpopo 49, 412-34, 414-15

accommodation 412climate 412food 412highlights 414-15history 413language 413travel seasons 412travel to/within 413

lions 547, 546-7Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park

270Lionsrock 320Makuleke Contract

Park 408Tembe Elephant Park

282uMkhuze Game Reserve

277

Liphofung Cave Cultural & Historical Site 485

literature 582-3, see also books

Lobamba 503-4Long Tom 301Lost City 438Louis Trichardt 422-3lymphatic filariasis 623

MMaboneng 19, 334-5, 19,

342-3Machel, Graça 523Madikwe Game Reserve 19,

442-4, 19Magaliesberg Range 444-5magazines 596Magersfontein 451Magoebaskloof Pass 429Maguga Dam 510-11Makeba, Miriam 565Makuleke Contract Park 408malaria 275, 623-4Malealea 491-2Maletsunyane Falls 488Malkerns Valley 505-7, 501Malolotja Nature Reserve

509-10Mandela, Nelson 526, 528-9,

532-4, 535, 575Drakenstein Correctional

Centre 125museums & monuments

221, 308, 327, 357-8Robben Island cell 64, 74

Mantenga Cultural Village & Nature Reserve 500

Manyeleti Game Reserve 411

Manzini 507-8, 508Mapungubwe National Park

15, 424-5, 4, 15marabi music 563-4Marakele National Park

421-2Marble Baths 296Margate 259-60Mariner’s Wharf 65markets 571

Cape Town 70, 102Garden Route 151Johannesburg 353Manzini 507North West Province 444Pretoria 363Winelands 115

marula trees 432Mary Fitzgerald Square 327Maseru 475-9, 476-7Mathambo, Spoek 568Matjiesfontein 167

Matsieng 482Mbabane 498-500, 499mbaqanga music 564-5Mbeki, Thabo 533, 534-5Mbombela 388-91Mbotyi 225Mbuluzi Game Reserve 513McGregor 130-1Mda, Zakes 582-3measures 596media 581medical services 622-3meerkats 555, 554-5Meiringspoort Pass 165microlighting 41-2Midlands 283-7Midlands Meander 286mines 508-9Mission Rocks 276Mkambati Nature Reserve

225-6Mkhaya Game Reserve 20,

513-14, 20Mlawula Nature Reserve

512-13Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary

504-5mobile phones 598-9Modjadji 431Modjadjiskloof 431-2Mofolo, Thomas 583mohair 230Mohale Dam 490Mohale’s Hoek 492Mokala National Park 454-5Mokhotlong 486-7Mokopane 417-19money 22, 23, 592, 595-7

ATM scams 587monkeys 159, 549, 548-9Monk’s Cowl 295-6Montagu 161-2, 164Montagu Pass 149Moolmanshoek Private

Game Reserve 321Morgan Bay 217-18Morija 481-2Moses Mabhida Stadium

241Moshoeshoe the Great 474Mossel Bay 145-8, 148motorcycle travel 608-9,

612-17mountain biking 41, see

also cyclingCape Town 73Free State 313Hlane Royal National

Park 512Knysna 153Kruger National Park 401

640

IND

EX M-N

mountain biking continuedMalealea 491Mlilwane Wildlife

Sanctuary 504Mountain Zebra National

Park 233-4mountain zebras 233-4, 552Mpumalanga 48, 374-94,

375accommodation 374climate 374food 374highlights 375history 376language 376travel seasons 374

Mswati III, King 497-8Mt Tabor 276Mt Thesiger 222Mthatha 220-1MTN Bushfire Festival 502Mtunzini 263-4museums, see also art

galleriesAfrikaans Language

Museum 123Alanglade 382Albany History Museum

203Albany Natural Science

Museum 203Alexander McGregor

Memorial Museum 451Anglo-Boer War Museum

308Apartheid Museum 335,

342-3Bakone Malapa Open-Air

Museum 413Barberton History &

Mining Museum 392Barberton Museum 392Big Hole 447Bo-Kaap Museum 61Calvinia Museum 469Cape Town Science

Centre 70Castle of Good Hope 56Centenary Centre 270Chavonnes Battery

Museum 64Constitution Hill 331, 334CP Nel Museum 165Dias Museum Complex

145Diggings Museum 382District Six Museum 56-7Ditsong National

Museum of Military History 335

Drostdy Museum 143Dukuza Museum 263East London Museum

210Elephant Hall Museum

397Fort Nongqayi Museum

Village 265Franschhoek Motor

Museum 120Fransie Pienaar Museum

168Freedom Park 362-3, 342Hector Pieterson

Museum 357Hester Rupert Art

Museum 227Huguenot Memorial

Museum 118International Library of

African Music 203Interpretation Centre

424-5Irma Stern Museum 69Iziko Slave Lodge 57Kalahari-Orange

Museum 457King Shaka Visitor

Centre 263Kitching Fossil

Exploration Centre 232Komatiland Forestry

Museum 379-80Koopmans-de Wet

House 61KwaMuhle Museum 240KwaZulu-Natal Museum

284Langa Pass Museum 73Luthuli Museum 263Mandela House Museum

357-8Masitise Cave House

Museum 493McGregor Museum 450Morija Museum &

Archives 481Msunduzi Museum 284Museum Africa 327Natal Sharks Board 261National Cultural History

Museum 363National English Literary

Museum 203National Museum 309Natural Science Museum

240Ncome Museum 304Nelson Mandela Museum

221Old Courthouse Museum

240Old Gaol Museum 153

Old Harbour Museum 133-4

Old Library 228Origins Centre 331Oude Kerk Volksmuseum

128Paarl Museum 123Phansi Museum 241Photographic Museum

134Polokwane Art Museum

413Port Natal Maritime

Museum 243-4Port Nolloth Museum 466Reinet House 228-9SAB World of Beer 327Sammy Marks’ Museum

373Schreiner House

Museum 234Sci-Bono Discovery

Centre 327Siege Museum 301Sol Plaatje Museum &

Library 451South African Hall of

Fame 26, 439South African Jewish

Museum 61South African Museum

62-3South End Museum 191Toy & Miniature Museum

112Tzaneen Museum 429University Museum 113Victorian House Museum

382Village Museum 109, 112Whale House Museum

133-4Winterton Museum 294Wits Art Museum 330-1Workers’ Museum 330Zeitz MOCAA Museum

64, 28music 561-9Musina 423-4

NNamakwa 17, 464-70Nan Hua Temple 371national parks & reserves

539-41, see also parks & gardens


Agulhas National Park 141

|Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park 467-8

Akkerendam Nature Reserve 469

Amakhala Game Reserve 199

Augrabies Falls National Park 463-4

Bambelela 419Blyde River Canyon

Nature Reserve 386Bokong Nature Reserve

488Bontebok National Park

143-4Botlierskop Private

Game Reserve 145Camdeboo National Park

230-1Cape Columbine Nature

Reserve 173Cape of Good Hope 69Cathedral Peak Nature

Reserve 294Cederberg Wilderness

Area 18, 173-4, 18, 138De Hoop Nature Reserve

142Dlinza Forest Reserve 265Dwesa Nature Reserve

218Falcon Ridge 295Featherbed Nature

Reserve 153Fernkloof Nature Reserve

133Franklin Nature Reserve

308Game Breeding Centre

418Garden Route National

Park 152, 180-2, 16Gariep Dam Nature

Reserve 322Goegap Nature Reserve

465Golden Gate Highlands

National Park 16, 316-17Goukamma Nature

Reserve 152Highmoor Nature

Reserve 291Hlane Royal National

Park 511-12Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park

18, 270-2, 271, 18, 279, 560

Hluleka Nature Reserve 221

Hottentots Holland Nature Reserve 136

Inkwenkwezi Game Reserve 215

Intaka Island 70iSimangaliso Wetland

Park 14, 272-82, 274, 14, 279


641IN

DEX N

- PIthala Game Reserve

268-9Jonkershoek Nature

Reserve 109Kamberg Nature Reserve

291Kariega Game Reserve

199Karoo National Park 169Keurbooms River Nature

Reserve 158Kgalagadi Transfrontier

Park 13, 459-62, 460, 13

Kogelberg Nature Reserve 131

Kruger National Park 11, 49, 395-411, 397, 398, 404-5, 11

Lake Eland Game Reserve 258-9

Lionsrock 320Madikwe Game Reserve

19, 442-4, 19Makuleke Contract

Park 408Malolotja Nature Reserve

509-10Mantenga Cultural

Village & Nature Reserve 500

Manyeleti Game Reserve 411

Mapungubwe National Park 15, 424-5, 4, 15

Marakele National Park 421-2

Marloth Nature Reserve 143

Mbuluzi Game Reserve 513

Mkambati Nature Reserve 225-6

Mkhaya Game Reserve 20, 513-14, 20

Mlawula Nature Reserve 512-13

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary 504-5

Modjadji Nature Reserve 431

Mokala National Park 454-5

Moolmanshoek Private Game Reserve 321

Mountain Zebra National Park 233-4

Musina Nature Reserve 423

Namaqua National Park 468

Ndumo Game Reserve 282-3

Nylsvley Nature Reserve 419

Oceana Beach & Wildlife Reserve 206

Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve 258

Paarl Mountain Nature Reserve 123

Pilanesberg National Park 20, 440-2, 441, 20

Polokwane Game Reserve 413

Pumba Private Game Reserve 199

Rietvlei Nature Reserve 373

Rondevlei Nature Reserve 70

Royal Natal National Park 298-9

Sabi Sand Game Reserve 410-11

Sanbona Wildlife Reserve 164

Schotia Game Reserve 198

Sehlabathebe National Park 493-4

Shamwari Game Reserve 198-9

Sibuya Game Reserve 199Silaka Nature Reserve 222Silvermine Nature

Reserve 69-70Spioenkop Nature

Reserve 299-300Sterkfontein Dam Nature

Reserve 315Stony Point Nature

Reserve 133Swartberg Nature

Reserve 168Table Mountain National

Park 56-7Tankwa Karoo National

Park 470Tembe Elephant Park 282Timbavati Private Nature

Reserve 411Ts’ehlanyane National

Park 484-5uKhahlamba-

Drakensberg Park 287-99, 290

Umgeni River Bird Park 241

Umhlanga Lagoon Nature Reserve 261

uMkhuze Game Reserve 277, 280, 2

Umlalazi Nature Reserve 264

Umtamvuna Nature Reserve 259

Walker Bay Nature Reserve 140-1

West Coast National Park 171

Willem Pretorius Game Reserve 314

Witsand Nature Reserve 456

Nature’s Valley 160Ndebele language 628Ndebele people 427Ndumo Game Reserve

282-3Nelspruit (Mbombela)

388-91, 389newspapers 596Ngwempisi Gorge 506Ngwenya 508-9Nieu Bethesda 231-3Noetzie 158Noon Gun 61Noordhoek Farm Village 71North Coast 260-3, 261North West Province 49,

435-45, 436accommodation 435climate 435food 435highlights 436history 436-7travel seasons 435travel to/within 437

Northeastern Highlands 226-7

Northern Berg 297-9Northern Cape 50, 446-70,

448-9accommodation 446climate 446food 446highlights 448language 447travel seasons 446

Northern Soto language 628

Nsangwini Rock Art Shelter 511

Oobservatories 175Ondini 267opening hours 597Oranjezicht City Farm 63Oribi Gorge 258-9Orlando Towers 358, 343ostriches 165, 559Oude Molen Eco Village 70Oudtshoorn 165-7, 166Ouplaas 142Outeniqua Pass 149Overberg, the 131-44, 132Oxbow 485-6Oyster Festival 31

PPaarl 123-7, 124, 126Painted Stone Garden 393painting 584paragliding 41-2, 71parks & gardens, see

also national parks & reserves

Company’s Garden 57Donkin Reserve 190Durban Botanic Gardens

241Eye of Kuruman 456Fairy Realm Garden 211Green Point Urban

Park 70Harold Porter National

Botanical Gardens 133Katse Botanical Garden

489Kings Walden 429-30Kirstenbosch National

Botanical Garden 67, 69, 75

Knysna Lagoon 153KwaZulu-Natal National

Botanical Garden 284Lowveld National

Botanical Garden 388Naval Hill 308Orchid House 308Prayer Trail 211Pretoria National

Botanical Garden 373Pretoria National

Zoological Gardens 363Qacha’s Nek Snake

Park 493Raffia Palm Monument

263Robberg Nature &

Marine Reserve 159Rust en Vreugd 63Stellenbosch University

Botanical Garden 113Sunland Big Baobab 431VOC Vegetable Garden 57Zoo Lake 335

Parow, Jack 568Parys 313-15passports 601, 604-5Patensie 183Paternoster 172-3Paton, Alan 582penguins 69, 184, 559,

74, 558Phalaborwa 432-3Philippolis 26, 322phonecards 598photography 597Pietermaritzburg 283-7, 285Pilanesberg National Park

20, 440-2, 441, 20

642

IND

EX P-S

Pilgrim’s Rest 382-3Pinnacle 385Plaatje, Sol 582planetariums 70, 308planning, see also

individual regionsactivities 38-42basics 22-3budgeting 23, 591, 593calendar of events 30-1children, travel with 43-5first-time travellers 24-5internet resources 23itineraries 32-7regions 46-50repeat visitors 26travel seasons 22, 30, 31

plants 539Plettenberg Bay 158-61, 158politics 516, 517, 525-35Polokwane 413, 416-17, 416Pondoland 225-6Ponte City 331pony trekking 41, 480,

491, 40, see also horse riding

population 516-17, 577-80Port Alfred 206-9, 208Port Elizabeth 190-7, 192-3Port Nolloth 466-7Port St Johns 219, 222-5,

223, 200postal services 597-8Pretoria 362-72, 364,

368-9, 372accommodation 364-7drinking & nightlife 370-1emergency services 371festivals & events 364food 367-70history 362LGBT travellers 351medical services 371sights 362-4tourist information 371travel to/from 371-2travel within 372

primates 549, 548-9Prince Albert 167-9Prince Alfred’s Pass 158Protea Banks 257Protea Farm 162public holidays 598

QQacha’s Nek 493Quthing 492-3

Rrabies 624race relations 516racial groups 578-80radio 596rafting 39, 234, 313-4,

481, 514Ramphele, Mamphela 527Ramsgate 259-60Rastafarian community 153reed dance 21, 502, 21reggae music 567religion 517, 581responsible travel 544rhino poaching 542rhinos 541, 552, 552

Hlane Royal National Park 512

Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park 270-2

Ithala Game Reserve 268-9

Kruger National Park 396Mkhaya Game Reserve

20, 513, 20Ndumo Game Reserve

282-3Spioenkop Nature

Reserve 299-300Tembe Elephant Park

282Willem Pretorius Game

Reserve 314Rhodes 226-7rickshaws 256Riemvasmaak 464road trips 162-3, 165, 163Robben Island 64, 2Robertson 129-30rock art 518, 519, 584, see

also archaeological sites

Didima San Rock Art Centre 294

Liphofung Cave Cultural & Historical Site 485

Nsangwini Rock Art Shelter 511

San Rock Art 298Sevilla Rock Art 175-6Wildebeest Kuil Rock Art

Centre 450rock climbing 42, 71-2,

161-2, 379Roma 480-1Roof of Africa 490rooibos tea 576Rorke’s Drift 303-4Route 62 161-7, 132, 163Royal Natal National Park

298-9rugby 99, 582Rustenburg 437-8

SSabi Sand Game Reserve

410-11Sabie 379-82, 380sables 550, 550safaris 34, 537-8


Eastern Cape Private Wildlife Reserves 198-9

Hlane Royal National Park 511-12

Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park 18, 270-2, 271, 18, 279, 560

iSimangaliso Wetland Park 14, 272-82, 274, 14, 279

Kalahari 457Kgalagadi Transfrontier

Park 13, 459-62, 460, 13

Kruger National Park 11, 49, 387, 388, 395-411, 397, 398, 404-5, 11

Kruger Private Wildlife Reserves 410-11

KwaZulu-Natal 268, 270Madikwe Game Reserve

19, 442-4, 19Mkhaya Game Reserve

20, 513-14, 20Pilanesberg National

Park 20, 440-2, 441, 20

Tembe Elephant Park 282, 283

safety 586-8, see also individual locations

car & motorcyle travel 376, 615-16

Cape Town 106Durban 254hiking 77, 295, 587-8hitching 617Johannesburg 354Lesotho 587-8safaris 538Swaziland 588

Salpeterkrans 320Samango monkeys 549,

548San people 518-19Sani Pass 293-4, 278Sani Top 19, 487-8, 19sardine run 220Sardinia Bay 190savannah 560scams, ATMs 587schistosomiasis 624Schreiner, Olive 582Sea Point Promenade 65

seafood 571, 573secretary birds 556, 557Sehlabathebe National

Park 493-4Semonkong 17, 490, 17Shadrack Mkhulunyelwa

Matsebula, James 583Shakaland 265Sharpeville 527shared taxis 608, 617-18shark-cage diving 140, 146sharks 538Shewula 511Sibebe Rock 498Signal Hill 63Simon, Paul 567skiing 485skydiving 71, 145, 159, 247snakes 493Snijmanshoek 320snorkelling, see diving &

snorkellingsoccer 475, 582Sodwana Bay 280solo travellers 588soul music 567South African Astronomical

Observatory 470South Coast 256-60, 258Southbroom 259-60Southern Berg 289-94Southern Sotho language

628-9Soutpansberg 422-8Soweto 356-62, 358-9Soweto Gospel Choir 566spas 419Spioenkop Nature Reserve

299-300Spirit of Emakhosini

Monument 268sports 99, 582spotted hyenas 555Springbok 465-6springboks 550St Francis Bay 184-5St Lucia 274-6stand-up paddleboarding

78Stanford 137stargazing 18, 470Station Drive Precinct 254Stellenbosch 12, 109-18,

112-13, 116, 12Sterkfontein Dam Nature

Reserve 315Storms River 182-4, 200-1Struisbaai 141Subeng River Dinosaur

Footprints 483Sun City 438-40Sunshine Coast 184-209


643IN

DEX S

-W

surfing 42Buffalo Bay 150Cape Town 78Durban 247Herolds Bay 150Jeffrey’s Bay 185, 187,

189, 200Mossel Bay 146, 150Plettenberg Bay 150, 159Port Elizabeth 191St Francis Bay 189Victoria Bay 150

sustainable fishing 573Sutherland 470Swartberg Pass 165Swartland 170-6Swati language 629Swaziland 26, 50, 495-514,

517, 496accommodation 495climate 495, 498economy 578embassies & consulates

593-4festivals 502food 495highlights 496history 497-8language 498legal matters 595literature 583money 597music 568-9public holidays 598safety 588telephone services 599travel seasons 495travel to/from 498travel within 498

Swellendam 142-4, 143

TTaal Monument 123Table Mountain Cableway

56Table Mountain National

Park 56-7Tankwa Karoo National

Park 470taxes 596-7, 605taxis 26, 608, 617-18telephone services 598-9Tembe Elephant Park 282Temple of Understanding

241-2Teyateyaneng 482-3Thaba-Bosiu 480Thabana-Ntlenyana 487Thabane, Thomas 475Thaba-Tseka 489theatre 584

theft 586-8Thohoyandou 425-7Three Rondavels 385Timbavati Private Nature

Reserve 411time 600tipping 25toilets 600Tolkien, JRR 309tourist information 600tours 610, 618township tours 26trading posts 17, 72-3, 357traditional medicine 625train travel 609, 618-20Transkei 527travel to/from South

Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland 604-10

travel within South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland 610-20

trekking, see hikingTruth & Reconciliation

Commission 534Ts’ehlanyane National Park

484-5Tsikoane Village Dinosaur

Footprints 483Tsonga language 629Tswana language 629tuberculosis 624-5Tulbagh 127-9turtles 273-4Tutu, Desmond 358, 528,

533TV 596Tweezer Rocks 313typhoid 625Tzaneen 429-31, 430

UuKhahlamba-Drakensberg

Park 287-99, 290Ulundi 266-8uMdloti Beach 260-2Umhlanga Reed Dance

Festival 21, 502, 21Umhlanga Rocks 260-2uMkhuze Game Reserve

277, 280, 2Umtentweni 257-8Umzumbe 257-8Underberg 291-3Upington 456-9, 458

VV&A Waterfront 63Vaalwater 420-1vacations 598vaccinations 622

Valley of Desolation 231, 7Valley of the Olifants

428-34vegetarian & vegan

travellers 574Venda language 629Venda people 427Venda region 20, 425-8, 426vervet monkeys 549, 549Victoria Bay 150Victoria West 455visas 22, 601-2Visierskerf 320visual arts 584Voëlvry movement 564volunteering 602-3Voortrekker Monument 363Vredefort Dome 313vultures 422, 556, 556-7

Wwalking, see hikingWarner Beach 256-7water, drinking 571, 625water parks 438Waterberg, the 420-2waterfalls

Augrabies Falls 463Berlin Falls 385Botsoela Waterfall 491Bridal Veil Falls 379Bulolo Waterfall 222Debengeni Falls 429Horseshoe Falls 379Lisbon Falls 385Lone Creek Falls 379Mac-Mac Falls 379Maletsunyane Falls 488Sabie Falls 379

Waterval Boven (Emgwenya) 378-9

weather 22, 30, 31, see also individual regions

websites, see internet resources

weights 596West Coast 170-6West Coast National

Park 171Western Cape 47, 108-76,

110-11accommodation 108climate 108, 109food 108highlights 110-11language 109travel seasons 108

whale watching 31, 42, 538De Hoop Nature Reserve

142Hermanus 133, 134

iSimangaliso Wetland Park 273

Plettenberg Bay 159Port St Johns 222-3

white-water rafting 39, 234, 313-4, 481, 514

Wild Coast 12, 213-26, 216-17, 13

wildcats 547wildebeests 550, 550-1Wilderness 150-1wildflowers 17, 170, 465, 17wildlife 27, 536-8, 545-60,

see also individual species

wildlife watching 30-1, 42, 537-8

wine 572Winelands 12, 109-31, 12wineries, see also breweries,

distilleriesAnura 125Avondale 123-4Babylonstoren 122Backsberg 124Barrydale Cellar 164Bergkelder 112-13Bezalel 462Boschendal 120Bramon 158-9Buitenverwachting 65Calitzdorp region 164Cape Point Vineyards 71Cederberg Winery 175Creation 133Delaire Graff Estate 114Die Mas Van Kakamas 462Excelsior 129Fairview 124Glen Carlou 125Graham Beck 129Grande Provence 120Groot Constantia 65Groote Post 170Klein Constantia 65KWV Emporium 123La Motte 120Leopard’s Leap 120Mont Rochelle 119Orange River Cellars 457Paul Cluver Wines 136Robert Stanford Estate

137Saronsberg Cellar 128Solms-Delta 120Spice Route 124Spier 113Springfield 129Stanford Hills 137Steenberg Farm 65Tanagra Private Cellar 130Tokara 114

644

IND

EX W-Z

wineries continuedTwee Jonge Gezellen 128Vergelegen 113Vergenoegd 113Viljoensdrift 129Villiera 114Warwick Estate 114Waterkloof 113-14

Witsand Nature Reserve 456

women in South Africa 516-17, 580-1

women travellers 603Wonder View 385Wonderwerk Cave 457work 603

XXhosa culture 224Xhosa language 629-30

Zzebras 552, 19

Dwesa Nature Reserve 218

iSimangaliso Wetland Park 272, 14

Kruger National Park 396Madikwe Game Reserve Mountain Zebra National

Park 233-4Oceana Beach & Wildlife

Reserve 206Spioenkop Nature

Reserve 299-300Willem Pretorius Game

Reserve 314zef music 568zoos 434Zulu culture 264Zulu language 630Zululand 263-9, 266-7Zuma, Jacob 534-5


645N

OTES

646

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

BeachGate

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


Shawn DuthieSwaziland Originally from Canada, Shawn has been travelling, studying and working around the world for the past 13 years. A love of travel merged with an interest in international politics, and led to several years of lecturing at the University of Cape Town and, now, as a freelance political risk consultant special-ising in African countries. Shawn lives in South Africa and takes any excuse to travel around this amazing continent.

Anthony HamKruger National Park, Limpopo, North West Province Anthony is a freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic and the Middle East. When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and US.

Ashley HarrellFree State, Lesotho After a brief stint selling day-spa coupons door-to-door in South Florida, Ashley decided that she’d rather be a writer. She went to jour-nalism grad school, convinced a newspaper to hire her, and starting covering wildlife, crime and tourism, sometimes all in the same story. Fuelling her zest for storytelling and the unknown, she travelled widely and moved often, from a tiny NYC apartment to a vast California ranch to a jungle cabin in Costa Rica, where

she started writing for Lonely Planet. From there her travels became more exotic and further flung, and she still laughs when paychecks arrive.

Simon RichmondCape Town, Johannesburg & Gauteng Journalist and photographer Simon has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s researched and written for the company, but countries covered include Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. For

Lonely Planet’s website he’s penned features on topics from the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of Urban Sketching – follow him on Instagram to see some of his photos and sketches.


OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415311th edition – November 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 180 9© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in SingaporeAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSJames BainbridgeCape Town, Mpumalanga James is a British travel writer and journalist based in Cape Town, from where he roams the globe and contributes to publications worldwide. He has been working on Lonely Planet projects for over a decade, updating dozens of guidebooks and TV hosting everywhere from the African bush to the Great Lakes. The coordinating writer of several editions of Lonely Planet’s South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland, Turkey and Morocco guides, his

articles on travel, culture and investment appear in the likes of BBC Travel, the UK Guardian and Independent, Condé Nast Traveller and Lonely Planet Traveller. For this guide, James also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

Robert BalkovichKwaZulu-Natal Robert was born and raised in Oregon, but has called New York City home for almost a decade. When he was a child and other families were going to theme parks and grandma’s house he went to Mexico City and toured Eastern Europe by train. He’s now a writer and travel enthusiast seeking expe-riences that are ever so slightly out of the ordinary to report back on. He’s on Instagram @oh_balky.

Jean-Bernard CarilletEastern Cape Jean-Bernard is a Paris-based freelance writer and photogra-pher who specialises in Africa, France, Turkey, the Indian Ocean, the Caribbean and the Pacific. He loves adventure, remote places, islands, outdoors, archaeo-logical sites and food. His insatiable wanderlust has taken him to 114 countries across six continents, and it shows no sign of waning. It has inspired lots of articles and photos for travel magazines and some 70 Lonely Planet guide-

books, both in English and in French.

Lucy CorneWestern Cape, Northern Cape Lucy left university with a degree in journalism and a pair of perpetually itchy feet. She taught EFL for eight years in Spain, South Korea, Canada, China and India, while writing freelance features for a range of magazines, newspapers and websites. She joined the Lonely Planet team in 2008 and has since worked on a range of titles, including Africa, Canary Islands, South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland and several foodie titles. Lucy lives in

Cape Town with her husband and young son, where she writes on travel, food and beer. Her popular blog, www.brewmistress.co.za, documents the South African beer scene.

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS


© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

south africa, lesotho & swaziland · south africa, lesotho & swaziland james bainbridge,...

Documents