Part two

SERRA RANGE

This update covers the Serra Rangeareas of the guide and contains allknown new routes and beta.

Part two also contains corrections topart one (where will I put the correc-tions to part 2?)

The information contained in this guidewas compiled from the new routepages of ARGUS and Rock magazine.

I don’t have personal knowledge ofmost of these areas and so all feed-back, corrections and constructive criti-cism is invited.

Assistance was provided by WayneMaher and James McIntosh, so a bigthanks to them.

All of these routes have not been putinto their correct sequence because Iran out of time. BA

ROCK CLIMBINGIS A DANGEROUSSPORTThis is NOT a fully researched guide.There will still be inaccuracies in routedescriptions, grades or climb start de-scriptions. Many of the routes de-scribed in this guide have had fewascents; if something seems wrongthen bail out. The lack of repeat as-cents on some of these routes meansthat loose or soft rock is not well docu-mented. Other unforeseen hazards,such as beehives, may come into exis-tence. Do not place total reliance onfixed protection; it may not be in place,or it may fail. Do not blame the editor,the first ascentionist, Parks Victoria oranyone else if it fails. As a climber youmust take responsibility for your ownsafety; if you are not prepared to dothis, then don’t use this update/guideand don’t go climbing. If there are mis-takes in the update then let the editorknow; don’t leave it to someone elsebecause the chances are they won’t bebothered.

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South-EasternGrampians Update

Compiled by Bill Andrews

Free with the March 2001 issue of ARGUS

Cliff Young

First sighted from Reeds Lookout, thisoutcrop is approached by walkingsouth east along rocky tops startingapproximately 120 metres south westof Flat Rock Crossing. Cliff facesnortheast. Walking time half an hour.Cliff described right to left from a small,well-sheltered cave at western end.

Deek 18m 14Vague line just right of cave entrance.Stay slightly right of arête. John Lamb,Mark Poustie. 9.1.93

Spud Farmer 25m 15Approx 200m left of Deek. The promi-nent orange corner. Mark Poustie,John Lamb. 9.1.93

Drugs In Sport 23m 13Start from block 5m left of SpudFarmer. Up short corner then trend left

to top. John Lamb, Mark Poustie.9.1.93

Cramp 9m 1070m left of Drugs In Sport past nextmajor buttress is a small buttress. Upfront, on right. John Lamb. Solo.9.1.93

Blister 8m 8Up front, on left, of next buttress left ofCramp. Mark Poustie. Solo. 9.1.93

Koori Country p.15Mabo 30m 14Seam, then square groove 120m be-fore end of cliff. John Lamb, MarkPoustie, Gordon Talbett. 10.1.93

Terra Nullus 26m 12The far country. Left-facing corner

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(loose block at 7m) above small,square cave 100m before cliff-end.Mark Poustie, John Lamb, Gordon Tal-bett. 10.1.93

Livingstone p.16

Dazed And Confused 25m 19Steep and pushy. Line at left end of or-ange wall 6m right of Fossil Fuel. Ste-phen Hamilton, Tim Burke. 4.4.92

On Safari 30m 18Brilliant and sustained climbing on wallright of Jungle Drums. From 4m rightof Jungle Drums, climb middle of wall,traverse left to foot of diagonal crackjust above overhangs over JungleDrums. Up diagonal, then follow crackup right for 3m to stance. Step up leftand finish steeply straight up. JohnPawson, Chris Baxter, Meg Taylor.30.12.93

Pot Luck 26m 17Companion route to On Safari. Start up

On Safari but continue straight up wall.From prominent flake, veer up left tofinish steeply by final, short, broadgroove. Chris Baxter, John Pawson,Meg Taylor. 30.12.93

Bwana 20m 12Easily up to ledge with large tree onleft side of right wall of On Safari (de-

scent) gully. Belay. Use tree tosurmount bulge, then climbcrack above. Chris Baxter,John Pawson. 30.12.93

Voodoo Doll 30m 14At foot of right arête of On Sa-fari (descent gully) is a greatperched boulder. Climb wall2m left of this, then steep lineabove. John Pawson, ChrisBaxter, Meg Taylor. 29.12.93

Equinox WallsMore good climbing in the EpacrisHills. These cliffs are a series of threesouth-facing walls with a magnificentoutlook towards Western Wall and be-yond. The rock is mostly excellentgrey pocketed rock giving steep climb-ing.

Cliffs face south. Walking time 10 min-utes. GR 305843

586 BC 25m 16Excellent, steep pocket-pulling. Pock-eted thin crack 3m right of cave on leftcliff. Step right and over overhang. Upseam above, then finish by pimplygroove. Chris Baxter, Wayne Maher.22.3.92

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Fencing The Fridge 22m 20Bold start. 1m left of The Fall Of Jeru-salem, on middle cliff. Straight uppocketed seam to ledge. On up thelovely wall keeping on its left side untilnear top, when it is best to veer rightinto The Fall Of Jerusalem. GlennTempest, Chris Baxter. 6.2.93

The Fall of Jerusalem 22m 15Slender buttress facing southeast onmiddle cliff. Distinguished by flake tornoff at 6m. Finish up right arête to cave.Exit up right. Chris Baxter, Wayne Ma-her. 21.3.92

Equinox 22m 18Good, steep pocket-pulling. Sustained.Climb pocketed seam on buttress 5mright of The Fall Of Jerusalem to ledge.Go 2m right and climb overhang andseam above. Wayne Maher, ChrisBaxter. 22.3.92

Heartland 20m 21Scary ceiling. Take #3½ and #4Friends. Crack, then roof, on right cliff2m right of suspended boulder. WayneMaher, Chris Baxter. 21.3.92

Too Tripped to Trot 30m 20Up Pocketed to before big pocket.Traverse left across thin wall to arête.Up this, veering left. Glenn Tempest.6.2.93

Pocketed 25m 19This outcrop is known for its amazingpockets. Jump up through perfecthand-slots above cave on left cliff.Straight on up over overlaps to pimplyfinish. Glenn Tempest. Solo 6.2.93

Ornamental Belay 25m 17Pocketed line and wall immediately

right of Pocketed. Glenn Tempest.Solo. 6.2.93

To The Manor Born 25m 14Grey, shallow corner starting out ofright side of cave and 2m left of 586BC. Straight up wall, then black pimplywall. Glenn Tempest. Solo. 6.2.93

Shingles 20m 19A nasty business! Line 5m right ofHeartland, on right cliff. Loose andscary line is carefully climbed to an airyfinish. Glenn Tempest, Chris Baxter.6.2.93

My Little Wench 25m 21Steep crack on left of wall left of Fenc-ing The Fridge. Finish up middle ofbuttress on poor rock. Ed Neve, NormBooth, Keith Lockwood. 15.4.95

Crescent Moon 25m 15Left one of twin cracks 9m left of Fenc-ing The Fridge to ledge at 8m. Trav-erse right to middle of wall. Up blackstreaks. Matt Walsh, Campbell Mercer,Mike Woolridge. December 1998

Boy Racer 25m 15Up 4m right of Crescent Moon. Camp-bell Mercer, Matt Walsh, Mike Wool-ridge. December 1998

Catching The Rainbow 25m 15Crack 2m left of arête immediately leftof Fencing The Fridge, and 2m right ofBoy Racer. Corner, then pocketedwall. Mike Woolridge, Campbell Mer-cer, Matt Walsh. December 1998

Random Acts Of Violence 25m 17Incipient crack to break 2m right ofShingles, then groove. Campbell Mer-cer, Matt Walsh 12-98

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Rise Of The Apocalyptic Sun 22m17Open corner 5m right of Fencing TheFridge, then right through bulges tosloping ledge. Delicately up ‘pimpled’corner to shelf. Follow ledge round left.Corner to ledge. Belay Greg Aimer,Chrissy Freestone March 1995

Elephants FootThis small but prominent turret is com-posed of outstanding grey, MountRosea-like rock and has strong andsteep lines. The setting, facing West-ern Wall, is as attractive, and feels asremote, as any in the region. Walk upovergrown fire track to top of ridgeabove The Prow (p.19). Leave trackhere (it swings right) by turning left andheading southwest along and thengently down ridge through open scrubto third rock turret protruding abovevegetation.

Cliff faces south. Walking time 25minutes. GR 301846

Remains To Be Seen 20m 16Humiliating start. Up right into grooveat left end of face. Straight up. ChrisBaxter, Michael Collie. 16.2.92

Marionette 24m 20,M1Good, steep climbing with a perplexingfinish. Led with one rest, secondedfree (21). Up Remains To Be Seen for6m. Traverse right on break to under-cut arête. Up it, veering slightly right tofinish. Michael Collie, Chris Baxter.16.2.92

The Cut Runs Deep 20m 25Superb. Powerful roof-crack in middleof crag. Glenn Tempest. 7.2. 93

Ginger 20m 20Ripper line. Corner-crack, roof, cave atright end of cliff. Michael Collie, ChrisBaxter. 28.2.92

Paddys Castle p.20The following three routes are on thesoutheast-facing back wall (parallel tomain wall but on other side of ‘castle’).

Back To Scraps 12m 17Arête at right side of wall, then stepround roof. Loose territory above.Marthijs Heuperman and others.21.4.95

Short Back and Sides 10m 15Line in middle of face past deep hori-zontal break. Through bulge (crux),then up to small overhang at top.‘Grant’ and others. 21.4.95

My Back Verandah 7m 11Left edge of back wall. Crack to roof,then step right and through roof.Marthijs Heuperman and others.21.4.95

Hoople Has a Hernia 11m 21Up from 1m right of IRA (on Main Wall)through large, orange roof to ledge at5m. Over next roof, then balance up.Marthijs Heuperman and others.23.4.95

To Be Sure, To Be Sure 23m 16Up from 2m right of Wee Bit of Blarneyto break. Traverse 5m right to ledge

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above roof, then diagonally acrossHoople Has a Hernia (watch out forrope drag). ‘Grant’. 23.4.95

Western WallMarked on many old maps and thoughtto refer to Bundaleer, this extensiveand enigmatic escarpment just north ofBundaleer has caught the attention ofclimbers over the years but has sel-dom been investigated. In the event,most of it is juggy and of no interest toclimbers. The only exceptions appearto be a pair of attractive buttresseswhich, fortunately, are near the eastend, that is, near the junction of StonyCreek Road and the Mount RoseaTrack, and a wall 200m right of these.From that junction, walk southwest onflat at foot of rising ground for aboutten minutes. Now up a little to left(east) to west-facing pair of buttresses.The climbing is very good.

Cliff faces north. Walking time 20minutes. GR 304839

Dogs Outside The Eternal City 15m18Excellent short climb. Looks harderthan it is. Thin seam at left end of leftbuttress is entered from left, then fol-lowed. Step right at its top and finishup V-line above. Chris Baxter, TimBurke. 11 2.91

The Kingdom Of Nothingness 16m19Steep and a little pumpy. Climb attrac-tive undercut seam 4m right of DogsOutside The Eternal City, finishing up

that climb. Chris Baxter, Tim Burke.1.12.91

A Close Thing 17m 14Middle line on left buttress; 2m right ofThe Kingdom Of Nothingness. Scar athalf-height indicates where a largeflake pulled off as leader was layback-ing off it. Steep pocket pulling up line.Left below final overhangs to DogsOutside the Eternal City. Chris Baxter,David Shirra. 14.9.91A Close Thing Direct Finish 5m 17Exposed. Also a direct finish for TheKingdom Of Nothingness. Straight upto final overhangs. Step left past fixedpiton runner, then back right on tohanging arête above it. Chris Baxter,Stephen Hamilton, Lisa lmer, Stuartlmer. 8.3.92

Publish Or Perish 19m 16Up diagonal crack on right side of leftbuttress to ledge. Up weakness in wallabove, easing. Chris Baxter, TimBurke. 1.12.91

Misery 12m 19Unbalanced; bouldery start, then easy.Undercut blunt arête 5m right of Pub-lish Or Perish. Cairned 1m left of start.Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter, Lisalmer, Stuart lmer. 8.3.92

A Distant Relation 16m 15Distinct crack near left side of right but-tress. David Shirra, Chris Baxter.14.9.91

Days Of Wine And Roses 16m 15Good, varied climbing. Climb pockets1m right of A Distant Relation, thenshort slab and short left-facing corner.Up and left to finish up A Distant Rela-tion. David Shirra, Chris Baxter.

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14.9.91Days Of Wine And Roses Direct Fin-ish 17From final overhang, hand-traverseright. Pull through bulge, then shortwall above. Kieran Loughran, ChrisBaxter, Sue Baxter, Meg Sleeman.9.94

The Illusion Of Power 16m 16Classic climb with a dramatic finish.Recommended. Up pocketed weak-ness 4m right of Days Of Wine AndRoses. Up right in shallow corner, thenoverhangs. Chris Baxter, David Shirra.14.9.91

Left In The Lurch 14m 13About 200m right of The Illusion OfPower is a wall with a huge fallen blockin front of it. Cairned. Left In The Lurchis subtle weakness in middle of thiswall. Chris Baxter, Stephen Hamilton,Stuart lmer. 8.3.92

Black Hunter 14m 19Brilliant. Up wall 2m right of Left In TheLurch to right-curving flake. Exit leftfrom top of this. Step right and climbwall direct. Stephen Hamilton, ChrisBaxter, Lisa lmer, Stuart lmer. 8.3.92

Cruise Control 14m 16Good. Crack starting in right-facingcorner 2m right of Black Hunter. ChrisBaxter, Stephen Hamilton, Stuart lmer.8.3.92

Little Wing 14m 20El steepo. Up left arête of flake-crack2m right of Cruise Control. Step right atoverhang and pull onto wall above.Straight up to finish direct over nextoverhang. Stephen Hamilton, ChrisBaxter, Lisa lmer, Stuart lmer. 8.3.92

Show And Tell 16m 18About 200m right of Little Wing is a se-ries of enormous blocks below the cliffand just left of red roofs. Above theblocks and left of the buttress with thered roofs is a wall with a thin crack upits left side. Crack. Finish on ledge be-low easy ground. To get off, traverseleft (belayed), then descend easily.Geoff Little, Chris Baxter. Sue Baxter,Maureen Gallagher. 29.5.92

Swamp Harrier 18m 18Good climbing. Climb wall 5m right ofShow And Tell to blocks under over-hang. Up and left over overhang toledge. Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter, Mau-reen Gallagher, Geoff Little. 29.5.92

Bird On The Wing 35m 171. 20m Thin wall 2m right of SwampHarrier Traverse 4m left at slopingledge. 2. 15m Knobbly crack (poorpro). Greg Aimer, Chrissy Freestone.21.3.94

Samakand 15m 16Flake-roof between Misery and DistantRelation. Jeremy Boreham, Mike Wust.19.7.98

Sanity Break 15m 18Looks unprotected and desperate butis neither. Recommended. Roof andbulging wall just right of Samakand.Jeremy Boreham, Mike Wust. 19.7.98

Stony PeakThe east and north sides of the peakimmediately north of Bundaleer have a

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number of outcrops, only one is of in-terest to climbers. The one recordedroute is on the only section worth con-sideration, the south end. Walkthrough open bush up from the MountRosea Track, directly below.

Cliff faces east. Walking time 10 min-utes. GR 312837

Nipper 20m 14Towards right end of tallest section ahand-crack in a corner heads up andleft, with an overhang at 5m. Finish onterrace. David Shirra, Chris Baxter.14.9.91

Bundaleer p.21Seamy Side 35m 24Crack between Free Snaking ThroughThe Eight Dimension and The Un-known Soldier. Malcolm Matheson,Chris Alber, Roland Arsons, GrahamJones. January 1986

Blanketty Blank Direct Finish 10m24Straight up above first part of BlankettyBlank. Thin! Peter Martin. 13.11.91

Lust 28m 22Fine orange wall between Pathos andCleopatra. One BR. Peter Martin, DaveCherry, David Gairns, Ed Neve. 8.3.92

Kerplunk 22m 17Wall between The Gunk and TheSkunk. Peter Martin. Circa 1985

Pamular Variant Start 16Crack right of original start direct tochimney. Peter Martin. Circa 1986

Don’t Sneeze 20m 21Brittle rock. From 4m up left wall ofgully right of Total Control, go left al-most to arête, then right to flake. Upand over bulge 2m right of arête. PeterMartin, Steve Jones. 14.11.91

Sold Front 20m 21Bold. 2m seam 1m left of Annie’s Mis-take. Straight up wall. Peter Martin,Julian Wilkes. 14.11.91

Annie’s Mistake 20m 18Left-leading line left of arête on smoothwall 25m right of New Front Ear. PeterMartin, John Bullock, Annie Dignan.March 1991

Athos 20m 18Left of descent gully (left of campingcave) is a wall with a small cave. Thincrack just right of left arête, past bulge,then horizontal break. Mark Savage,Lian Mack, Bernard Whitelock.15.11.91

Porthos 20m 17Line in middle of face, bulge, thin fin-ish. Bernard Whitelock, Bruno Sanker.14.11.91

Aramis 20m 16Up to bulge just right of Porthos. Up.Bruno Sanker, Lynda Coster. 15.11.91

Sunday Exposé 25m 18Arête 8m left of Addition. Up onrounded holds, moving right to arêteand seam at 10m. Through break in lipand up steep face above on good

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holds and pro. Worthwhile. GregAimer, Christina Freestone. 27.9.92

Skulthuggery 15m 27Start 10m left of Angular Perspective.Up steeply past six FHs to lip. MartinLama, Matthew Brooks. 20.1.94

Know Your Enemies 10m 2615m right of The Unknown Soldier.Three BRs to chain. Matthew Brooks,Martin Lama. 21.1.94

Fistful Of Steel 15m 25Seam, then buttress 4m right of Hygar-fefoapp to chain. Matthew Brooks.20.1.94

Enter Sandman 20m 23Sandy. Boulder up right of cave belowfirst BR on, and 1m right of Fistful OfSteel. Diagonally left from third BR(above bulge) past BR to chain. DanielBrooks. 21.1.94

The Beckoning 25m 26Start up Ostler, then climb arête above(four BRs) to abseil station. SimonMentz, Simon Carter and others. May1994

Peanut 18m 18Thin crack on right side of buttress15m left of Terror Australis, then left atoverhang. Through bulge, then rightup mossy groove. Leon Zablocki,Shelly Higgs. 11.1.95

Epistemological Paradigm 30m 14Up deep cleft between The Punk andJust Another Anthropocentric Individu-alistic Rationalist. Diagonally rightabove overhang at two-thirds height tofinish up last 2m of Just Another An-thropocentric Individualistic Rationalist.

Jim Troedel, Kathleen Pleasants.2.4.95

Just Another Anthropocentric Indi-vidualistic Rationalist 30m 14Dubious rock but good pro. Line withoverhang at two thirds height 1m left ofarête 10m right of The Punk. GraemeSmith, Melissa Hobson, Debbie Ng.2.4.95

Right Over 29m 14Small buttress 10m right of The Punkthrough three small overhangs, PeterHolmes and party. 22.1.96 A repeat ofthe above climb.

A Passage Through Bowers 35m15Poor rock. Scary. From 6m up Just An-other Anthropocentric IndividualisticRationalist, traverse left round arête tobottomless line. Up. Melissa Hobson,Debbie Ng, Graeme Smith. 2.4.95

The Hidden Pillar 12m 5Start at large flake on cliff about 50mleft of water (water? What water?).Wall to right side of flake, then chim-ney. John Moore, Chris Baxter, PhillipStranger. 27.11.65

The Proverbial 13m 7On top of main cliff. When looking fromCar Park (feature on top of cliff) to-wards summit a block with a corner-crack is visible. From stance at top ofcorner, climb groove. John Moore,Chris Baxter, Phillip Stranger. 27.11.65

Gargoyles and Chicken Heads 25m11Juggy face 9m right of The Skunk (1mright of last tree). Well protected. Peter

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Miles, John Handley, Colleen Ivatts.15.2.97

They’ve Been At It Again 22m 13Start 7m right of New Front Ear (onblock just right of descent gully closestto walk-in track). Left-leaning diagonalto small ledge, then over flake and upwall. FRA Jack Lewis, Geoff Sutter.16.2.97

It’s Another Boy 20m 11Crack 1m right of They’ve Been At ItAgain to overhang at 6m, then up eas-ily. FRA Jack Lewis, Geoff Sutter.16.2.97

Cleopatra Alternate Finish 20m 142a. After climbing the arête, traversingright and mounting the flake, move upleft back round arête to finish up wall.Jack Lewis, Geoff Sutter. 15.2.97

Aquarius Pitch Two Variant 17m 13Weakness in left of wall of chim-ney/gully to ledge, then traverse rightand bridge chimney to join main line.(Beware loose blocks at lip!) JackLewis, Geoff Sutter. 15.2.97

(Unnamed) 16Crack 1m right of The Price You Pay.Veer right to easier ground, then steepexit. FADU

Surfing With the Aliens 20m 26/27Shallow corners 15m left of Whitebait.Three eye-bolts. Crack above. Advis-able to stick clip the first BR. Rapchains. Steve Chapman. 18.4.99

Yerba Is The Word 25m 21Initialled. First climb on smooth, greywall 20m left of Pyjamaland. Low BR.Finish through roof. Rap chains. Rob

Booth, Steve Chapman, Robin Hol-mes. January 1999

Beta from Wade Stevens

• Update guide (insert to Rock 19,1993) says Sunday Expose (18) is“worthwhile”. Disagree. No Star. Not8m L Addition, more like 11m. de-scription correct. Helpful to add: “andup steep face R of arête on goodholds and pro.”

• Baxter Guide (V.C.C. 1991) p.37.See Addition. Baxter says ApathyAttack “appears to be a repeat ofAddition!” This is not the case. Seetopo. I have done Addition and it iswell clear.

• ADDITION (19). Worth a star. StepR just below the BR on Apathy At-tack.

• Route Lengths. The “Live Action”and “Addition” walls are 25m high.So Live Action, Sunday Exposé,Apathy Attack, Addition are all 25mhigh.

• KERPLUNK (17) is worth a star. Itfinishes at the large tree used as ab-seil descent for this wall.

• RIGHT OVER (29m 14, 22.1.96),See Rock 28 page 31 is 10m R ofThe Punk. It appears to be a repeatof Just Another Individualistic Ra-tionalist (Rock 24)

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• THE PRICE YOU PAY is a commit-ting lead. (Pro is spaced and notbrilliant.)

• GERONTIAN (16) and its DIRECTFINISH are undergraded. Agreewith 17/15 in Mentz/Tempest selectguide.

• Abseil from anchor 1 of Blimp is not“exactly 25m” (Mentz/Tempest se-lect guide). One rope does reachbut you have to swing across rightto reach ground.

• LIVE ACTIONBaxter guide p.36 says “up orangewall with distinctive R-curving seam.Go past a break and directly up mid-dle of wall.” A) The break is not ob-

vious, but the overlap at thestart is. B) Does the climb goup the “R-curving seam”which is in the middle of thewall to the right of the R-curving seam? Mentz/Tem-pest select guide (p.141)doesn’t clarify it. So I askedGlenn, he can’t remember ex-actly. I have done both op-tions (see Live Action topo).“The left option” (up the R-curving seam) is “steep andfiery” and better, but there’s adesperately >>20 move at thebase of the seam that forcesyou onto the wall to the right:“the right option”, which is ~18. The crux is the first fewmoves off the ground throughthe overlap so both get grade20. C) I recommend an im-proved description as follows:*Live Action 25m 20Takes the attractive orange

and grey wall with a distinctive R-curving seam. Start 22m R of ThePunk, just R of an overhang.Steeply up and left to a stance be-low the seam. Either straight upgrey wall or (better) step up and leftinto seam. At top of seam, straightup. GT, HB, JT 11-82.

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Live Action Topo

• Route Lengths. Total Control, de-scent gully p.37. If They Must HaveDone It is 20m then Noises In TheNight is 16m and Murph … is say14m.

★ Action Pact 25m 20Up Live Action, continue up and left tobase of right curving seam. Step leftthen up fingery grey wall left of theseam. Step right and up right side oforange face (2BR) to ledge. WadeStevens, Mark Rewi. 9.9.00

Orange Tin 50m 17Good combination/link up route withtwo sections of new climbing (see topoprevious page). Start 5m right of Ger-ontion. 1. 35m (17) Straight up wall tojoin Melon Was Here at the left facingsickle. Up this and step right on ledgeto block (as for Melon Was Here). Veerleft up wall above and up crack to Ger-ontion anchor two. 2. 15m Finish upGerontion Direct Finish. Wade Ste-vens, Suzie Rennie. 20.1.01

★ Doctor Pangloss 25m 19Start 5m right of Sunday Exposé atweakness just right of a tree. Straightup flakey wall and thin crack. Veerright past BR until below smooth finalwall. Hand traverse 3m left to reachyfinish 1m right of Sunday Exposé.Wade Stevens, NiNa Cullen. 28.1.01

BundlethereSuch an obvious cliff must have beenseen and passed by many times overthe years. Follow the Mount Rosea

Track from Bundaleer towards TowerHill for 450m, then head directly up tocliff on right (50m).

Dakher 10m 21Looks harder than it is. Excellent over-hanging corner at right end of cliff. Ste-phen Hamilton, Matt Derby, PeterWoolford. 5.3.95

Bullets Under Bundaleer 25m 19Left-right girdle of cliff. Start below andleft of big off-width. Finish through roofat right end. Peter Woolford, MattDerby, Stephen Hamilton. 5.3.95

We Need More Beer 13m 21Very steep with a ‘go for it’ crux. Di-rectly through bulges and horizontalbreaks from 1m left of Bullets UnderBundaleer. Peter Woolford, StephenHamilton. 5.3.95

Tower Hill p.40Black Tower Special 15m 19A hard move to get started, then fairpro. Step up right under overhang onundercut buttress just right of Invictus.Straight up to finish direct over over-hang to summit. Mike Law, Chris Bax-ter, Venus Kondos. 19.4.92

Ravenscrux 12m 20Insecure and poorly protected. Hardstart over bulge 2m right of ExamCrack (no pro). From ledge, start upseam on right side of face, then stepleft and climb twin ‘cracks’. Mike Law,Chris Baxter, Venus Kondos. 19.4.92

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Buttock Traveller 10m 19Attractive left arête of Chic To Chic. #3Friend in break. Mike Law, Chris Bax-ter. 19.4.92

Rolf Baldwin’s Climb 10m 15Steep right arête of Chic To Chic. #3and #4 Friends in breaks. Chris Baxter,Mike Law. 19.4.92

Stryletzia 15m 22The classic of the crag. Excellent pro.Crack 3m left of Aspidistra. Wall above(two BRs). Mike Law, Chris Baxter, Ve-nus Kondos. 19.4.92

Facial Expressions 15m 19/20A rarely-seen buttress. Crack in under-cut buttress leading to cave belowBechervaise’s Route, then 4m left andthrough roof to wide crack. Jason Mor-timore, Ashley Graham. 30.10.94

Long Tall Sally 20m 25Arête 2m left of V-corner (15/16) (fac-ing track before peak is reached) toroof (#3½ SLCD in horizontal at lip).Through roof. Peter Woolford, MattDerby, Stephen Hamilton. 2.4.95

Heupermyster Steps Left 16m 20Clip first BR on Stryletzia, then step leftto pull through break in bulge (crux).Directly up left side of arête above(tricky finish). Marthils Heuperman andothers. 22.4.95

Mount Rosea p.43

NEW ACCESS NOTES:

Start as for the guidebook description.Follow the track for 500 metres fromthe car-park onto a broad open ridge.Look for a track junction where the oldtrack (a turn-off to the left) has beendisguised with branches. There is asmall yellow sign which says “climbers’access”. A new footpad takes you pastthe branches and, in 4-5 metres youwill find yourself on the old tourist path.Continue, as described in the guide, tothe base of the cliffs.

If you miss the junction, you will findyourself on the new tourist track - cutin 1999. If it becomes obvious that youare on a newly cut track, re-trace yoursteps and find the turn-off. If you don’tfind the junction, the new tourist trackwill take you up to the main ridge along way north of the cliffs. The trackthen heads down towards Bundaleerbefore heading up to join the climbersdescent route and the old tourist trackat the top of the Staircase. Be warned -it will take you almost an hour to get tothe base of the climbs!

The Stinger Variant (p52) is actually avery minor variant to The MagellanHeart. The only new climbing is about3 metres of flake that avoids a juggyoffwidth.

The Magellan Heart (p53) is one stargrade 20.

Dinosaur Gully Variant Finish 30m15Option to scramble off. From eucalyptoverlooking pitch four of DinosaurGully, climb on to ramp and go up rightto arête. Up, step left at bulge, then fin-ish direct up wall. Steve Hains, Bruce

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Somerfield. 18.1.92 (Originally calledPterodactyl?)

Scarface Direct 38m 23Up left from where original route goeson to arête. Seam (BR), then backright to arête just below roof. SimonMentz, Paul Christie, RebeccaMcCowen. March 1993

(Unnamed) 20m 26Unled? Superb climbing, but run outbelow first BR. Right arête, then, rightwall of Debutante Direct Start. TwoBRs, chain belay. John Vlasto. 1991?

Miracles In My Pockets 100m 20/211. 25m Wall 4m left of Saturday Spe-cial. From about 15m, veer up leftround arête to up right of tree. 2.35mTraverse 5m right. Up pockets. Trav-erse right at about 20m. Chimney be-hind flake to climb bulge tosemi-hanging belay at foot of right-leading diagonal flake. 3. 40m (crux)Up to top of flake. Up honeycombbulge. Seam and wall to small corner.Ignore corner and veer up left. JamesMcIntosh, Michael Gidding. (var)24.4.94 (Direct version is 22)

From James McIntosh. The historygoes like this: Noddy attempted theroute years ago. He got to a hard bitabout 15m off the ground and backedoff due to lack of pro. Then MichaelGidding and I came along and climbedthe route on sight. At the hard bit, wemoved left to easier ground then backabove the start. About 2 weekslater, Noddy returned, bolted the prob-lem part, and climbed the route di-rect. He also went a slightly differentway through the small roof. We wroteup our route in Argus calling it Miracles

In My Pockets. Noddy wrote up hisroute calling it Steep Dreams (see be-low).

It’s an awesome wall, overhangingabout 2m in 90m with virtually noledges for rests. Lousy rock though.

Steep Dreams 85m 221. 35m (crux) Middle of wall left of Sat-urday Special through bulge (BR). Upsteeply to belay. 2. 50m Pocketed wall,then through bulge just left of ominousblock. Step right, then right-leading di-agonal flake. Honeycombed, bulgingseam, then over ironstone extrusion tosmall corner. Step left, then wall to topof corner. Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve(alt), Norm Booth. 10.9.94

★★ Bubbles 45m 17Take big gear. 1. 20m Flake/pillar justleft of The Edge Of Reality. Veer leftup easy orange wall to semi-HB at bigbreak. 2. 25m (crux) Up left over pock-eted bulge, then right up small corner.Left along flake, then up left to secondbelay of Dinosaur Gully. James McIn-tosh, Wayne Maher. (alt) 29.1.94

Royal Blues 23,M1Now free apart from one aid bolt onroof of pitch one; and straighter thirdpitch. Steve Monks, Ginette Harrison,Burnie van Deren Dank. 30.4.94

Cry Freedom 25m 20For the end of the day. Short wall afew metres left of Renaté, then crack.Move right at 10m to right one of twocracks. Up to ledge. Abseil from bol-lard (sling required). Norm Booth. KeithLockwood, Kieran Loughran. 30.4.94

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Blood On The Rocks 90m 141. 17m Commando Climb to ledge onright. 2. 48m Crack on right, then upright side of wall to 5m below cave.Traverse 3m left. Up and right to cavebelow overhang. 3. 25m (crux) 4malong scrubby ledge. Crack on right.Scott Johnson, Toni Taggert. 16.4.94

Debutante Variant 55m 183a. 40m Up to top of detached pinna-cle on right. Corner up front of but-tress, then overhang, steep wall, flaketo large ledge on right. 4a. 15m Trav-erse left, then up nose to belay as forDebutante’s last pitch. Peter Martin,Jenny Plant. 29.3.94

Schlock 20m 16Thin seam just right of left arête (2mup left of End Of The Line). StephenHamilton, Melissa Herbert. 19.11.94

End Of The Line 25m 19Start 150m up Giants Staircase fromEaster Hangover where cliff breaksdown (just before top). Scrubby cornerleft of roof overhanging the track, thenstep right. Through roof, then right toarête. Stephen Hamilton. 19.11.94

Hope 25m 14Start as for End Of The Line Continueup corner for 2m, then step right toclimb middle of face. Stephen Hamil-ton, Melissa Herbert. 19.11.94

Sweat 25m 15Step off block 3m down right of End OfThe Line, then corner to ledge. Corner,then face. Stephen Hamilton, MelissaHerbert. 19.11.94

Bellbottom 25m 13Loose corner 5m down right of Sweat

to ledge. Step right to line. StephenHamilton, Melissa Herbert. 19.11.94

Big Boys Don’t Cry Alternate Start15m 18Corner/groove 3m right of Big BoysDon’t Cry. Phillip McMillan, JeremyBoreham. 26.4.97

Bushwalking With Gordon 90m 18The first pitch is nice but after that..... !1. 37m Crux. Start as for Cream buthead up diagonally right and up to thefirst pitch belay of Abednego. Stepright and up the twin cracks to a goodledge/cave. (If you’re smart you’ll havebrought a long sling with you whichyou can wrap around the boulder atthe back of the cave and rap off. Forthe purists however..... ) 2. 18m Trav-erse 6m left and then up through treesto take the good flake edge up andright past two ledges (and anothertree!), Belay on the left at the nextgood ledge. 3. 35m Step left and thenup steeply, left again and up throughvertical dirt and scrub. Mark Poustie,Campbell Mercer. (alt) 6.3.93

Memories Of Provence 90m 22Three good pitches. 1. 30m (crux)Small, undercut corner 7m right of BigBoys Don’t Cry. At about 4m balanceright to groove and follow it to roof.Traverse right to ledge with large, deadtree. Step back left (PR) and throughbreak in overhang (BR). Up to smallstance. 2. 30m (18) Cracks in right wallof corner, then corner. Step left to passdifficulties, then up to rejoin corner. Upto ledge. 3. 30m (17) Step left to or-ange corner. Up to roof. Traverse leftto break. Finish up steep corner, thenface. Jeremy Boreham, Phillip McMil-lan. (alt) 2.10.97

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A Bottle Of Brut 140m 19Includes some excellent sections. 1.27m Big line immediately left of Abys-mal Brute’s buttress to big ledge onright. Belay as for that climb. 2. 40mOverhang 2m right of Abysmal Bruteand up steep line. Now up slab right ofAbysmal Brute to second belay of thatroute. (Old, unnecessary DBB.) 3. 25mUp left to grey groove in left arête ofleft one of pair of steep, orange cor-ners. Groove until it runs out on itsright arête. Steep headwall to scrubbyledge. 4. 48m Up left on rising ramp for15m to intersect chimney at half-height. Chimney until it peters out. Upand right to finish up highest andsteepest section of buttress. DavidGairns, Chris Baxter. (alt) 1.12.97

Abysmal BruteNote that pitch three is more like 45mthan 35m. (Probably best broken onledge at half-height.) Note, too, thatvariant on this pitch starts two-thirds ofthe way up off-width corner section im-mediately before off-width turns nastyand unprotectable. The ledge atop thispitch appears to lack anchors unlessyou traverse 6m left.

The Seventh Lamb 55m 161. 25m (crux) Right from first belay ofDinosaur Gully to right arête of TheLast Act. 2. 30m right to The Stinger.James McIntosh, Alan Hope. (alt) 1993

St Valentine’s Day Massacre 30m15This lovely pitch is one of the most ac-cessible on the cliff and ends at an ab-seil tree! Left-facing flake-crackimmediately left of Flypaper Wall. Overbulge above, to foot of slab. Easilyright on break to Flypaper Wall and its

meaty tree. Chris Baxter, DavidGairns. 14.2.98

Diane Super Direct 35m 19Double ropes useful. Take RPs. Fromsecond belay of Diane Direct Finish,swing right round overhang and headfor bottomless corner directly abovebelay (that is, right end of ledge). Upcorner to third belay of Ashes to Ashesand finish as for Ashes to Ashes. PaulBadenoch, Sonja Klebe, Brett Sedu-nary. 14.2.98

Colonoscopy 15m 14This and the next two climbs are at theGate of the East Wind, on top of MtRosea, 350m south of top of the GiantStairway. Climbs are in cleft crossedby track over large boulder with hand-rail. First corner on left (facing out asyou walk down access gully), belowhandrail. Finish through hole. GlenDonohue, James McIntosh, Nick Ping,Andrew Webb. 8.3.98

Prince Of Darkness 20m 20Middle of south face of gully, oppositesmall alcove formed by left- and right-facing corners. James McIntosh, GlenDonohue, Nick Ping, Andrew Webb.8.3.98

Natural Selection 22m 13Corner on cliff in sunshine, 5m left(facing cliff) of chasm. Nick Ping, GlenDonohue, James McIntosh, AndrewWebb. 8.3.98

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Mount Rosea SummitCliffsAbout 50m right (looking out) from thesummit lookout is a southeast-facinggrey wall about 30m high, distin-guished by a couple of horizontal rooflines reminiscent of Bundaleer. Youreach it by walking about 100m right(looking out) along the cliff top to abroad gully and abseil tree from wherea 25m abseil takes you to a broadvegetated terrace. Walk back left (fac-ing out) to the base of the wall.

The rock on the wall is not nearly asgood as it looks, but the situation isgreat!

Both routes start up the vertical linethat starts behind the big detachedblock and just right of the gully/cornerwhich marks the left end of the wall

Vote Of No Confidence 35m 13Steeply up into the line and up, then2-3m right along the obvious horizontalbreak. Up the teetering line of blocksto bypass the right side of the first lineof roofs. Step up past more looseblocks and move back left into theoriginal line above the roof. Continueup the line through the next overhang.Above this, follow the line until it getshard then move right to follow the eas-ier climbing to the top. John Stone,Eddy Rawlins. 24.10.99

Vote Of Over Confidence 30m 19Follow the line all the way. Two crux’s- at the first roof and the headwall, es-pecially the exit. Top-roped: RichardEvans. 24.10.99

Mount Rosea NorthIt is amazing that such a major, obvi-ous and accessible cliff should havebeen overlooked for so long. (This cliffhad been visited earlier by other climb-ers but no climbing was done.) Climb-ers no doubt thought it was part ofMount Rosea when they saw it frombelow. It is, however, well north of theusual climbing area. There is potentialfor superb face climbing, but naturalprotection is sparse and vast amountsof loose rock will have to be removedfirst if you’re to remain sane. Walk upthe Mount Rosea track for five minutesuntil the cliff is visible above. Headstraight up through open bush, then onscree.

Finding may of these routes with exist-ing access notes may be an act offaith. The south side of the valley hassome significant clifflines protected bysome horrible scrub the three routesthat WM & GD did were all at the oneplace. There are considerable outcropsboth upstream and downstream fromthere.

Cliff faces northeast. Walking time 15minutes. GR 327834

Fossils’ Folly 35m 18Very loose, dubious pro. Serious.About two-thirds of the way along thecliff (from the left) is a cairned,square-cut, grey groove. Climb this,then move up right under steep orangerock. Go up to break. Left for 2m roundnose to ledge. Up and right to hard exitto ledge. Short wall. Abseil from tree30m to right. Wayne Maher, Chris Bax-ter. 2.3.92

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Thess three routes were written up asbeing on Rosea Creek but are actuallyon Mount Rosea North with the fol-lowing access notes. At a point 500meast of the Western Block turn off onthe Rosea Track. Walk up and overthe ridge above the road. The firstroutes are on the opposite side (north)of the creek on a grey buttress justright of a waterfall.

Fanaticism 20m 17The first crack line in the face 1m rightof a corner Up corner and crack thensteep country to a sandy exit. WayneMaher, Glen Donohue. 27.2.93

Unforgiven 20m 16Around right of the Fanaticism face is ashort corner loading to twin ramps. Upcorner, then lower left leading ramp,step up into upper ramp then weak-ness to top. Glen Donohue, WayneMaher. 27.2.93

Small Minds And Small Towns 20m16Crack just left of prominent yellowarête on outcrop just right of Fanati-cism. Ross Taylor, Peter Canning.27.2.93

ROSEA CREEK(SOUTH)The next buttress to the right has agrey face with a prominent orangearête and line beneath a small prow onits right side (landmark). The next tworoutes are on the south side of thecreek where a buttress of orange rockis first met on the way in, but cannot beseen on the approach. The first route

is on the right side of this outcrop.Originally written up as Rosea Creek,now called Rosea Creek South to dif-ferentiate it from Rosea Creek North.

Glass Ceiling 30m 19Start at the first prominent corner fine.Up steep corner and through bulgenear top (the first ascent was done intwo pitches). Glen Donohue, WayneMaher. (alt) 27.2.93

Beggars Can’t Be Choosers 25m16Crack, then overhang in middle of face5-10m left of Glass Ceiling. Peter Can-ning, Ross Taylor. 27.2.93

Old Enough To Know Better 22m18Start as for Beggars Can’t Be Choos-ers then step right onto nose and con-tinue up to ledge below roof. Move leftand finish up Beggars Can’t Be Choos-ers (a crack through a bulge). WayneMaher, Glen Donohue. 11.3.00

Cliff nearest Mount Rosea Track hasone good, steep, compact orange wall.- on top of ridge?

Fishing For Marlin 17m 21Crack at right end of compact wall, fin-ishing by a diabolical wave-like over-hang, then easy ground. David Gairns,Chris Baxter, John Pawson. 22.5.94

Tienanmen p.79Intellectual Exodus 30m 21,M1Face left of Hsiao Ping. Up left arête

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just right of cave, then middle of faceto major break. Up (rest on BR) andthrough overhang, then easily up. GregAimer, Christina Freestone. 22.11.93

Changing Of The Guard 30m 17Crack 2m right of Lin Shao Chi toledge (crux). Now veer right to steepbulges and arête. Greg Aimer, Chris-tina Freestone. 5.7.93

Whip-lash 20m 17Last major face on right of cliff. Left-facing corner (cairn) to ledge, thenright-facing corner to ledge. Up steeplypast bulges. Greg Aimer, ChristinaFreestone. 22.11.93

The Peking Face p.81Thai Nee 18m 18Prominent fin protruding from base ofleft side of descent gully, left end ofcliff. Crack above, then directlythrough tricky bulge. StephenHamilton, Tim Burke, TonyMaasakkers. 16.4.94

Kamikaze 29m 21Superb jamming. 1. ?m Black streakand crack right of Kowloon Crack toledge. 2. ?m Righthand of two seams,chimney. Stephen Hamilton, TonyMaasakkers. 17.4.94

Farewell My Concubine 48m 151. ?m Front of buttress 4m left of LamJack Chu to deep groove. Steep wall.2. ?m Step right, then through over-hang. Left to ledge, then up left easily.Tim Burke, Stephen Hamilton (alt),

Melissa Herbert, Tony Maasakkers.16.4.94

Hearts of Darkness 48m 20Small, orange corner 4m right of DimSim. Continue up left side of nose(belay possible here). Up. StephenHamilton, Tony Maasakkers. 16.4.94

DynastyFA Phillip McMillan, not Philip Arm-strong.

Beta from Wade Stevens

1. The track arrives at SAKI, asmentioned in Baxter guide. This factshould be made obvious at a glance inthe new guide.

2. Moratorium (17) deserves a star.Do pitches 1 & 2 together. No need fora belay.

3. Ancient warriors (20). Do pitches 1& 2 together.

4. Bushido – do first two pitches to-gether (BB at first belay is poor andshould not be used.

5. Hari Kari (p.90)A) corrections to current routedescription (corrections underlined)Start marked 4m R AHMB. Climbbulge (awkward move at grade 18) andup to L-facing corner. Climb it and go Lto R-facing corner, which leads to anoverhang at 10m. R under overhang toledge and tree. Etc etc.B) Instead of repeating HK asdescribed (very indirect) we did adirect version, in one pitch up to HK’s3rd belay. (We found a fixed wire oncrux of new climbing so may have

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been done (or tried) before.) Thisascent eliminates (i) two traverses andHK’s second pitch and (ii) freed thepreviously unreported aid move? tosurmount the initial bulge (see ArgusJuly 2000 p.8) which might be grade14 … but only with 5 or 6 silent “+”’s.Hari Kari Direct 48m 18Where HK should have gone. 1. 33mUp HK to overhang at 10m. Steeply upleft side then straight up HK third pitch.2. 15m Finish as for HK pitch four.Wade Stevens, NiNa Cullen. January2001

6. Subaru access from west end OK

Eastern Rocks p.100Offyapop 20m 22Line in middle of cliff (and just left oflarge roof at half-height) halfway be-tween two previously developed cliffsand 150m southeast of road intersec-tion opposite. Up to top of short, blackcorner. Up left to small, sloping ledge.Up steep line just left of roof. Finish upflake. Peter Woolford, Jo Van Benkel.1.6.97

Hobbo 20m 18Thin pro at start leads to steep, pleas-ant climbing on good holds. Corner 3mleft of Offyapop to horizontal. Up andleft. Peter Woolford, Jo Van Berkel.1.6.97

Western Bloc p.103Mediocre Karaoke 40m 24Very pleasant. Crux at second BR,then sustained 21 to top. Wall 4m rightof Uneasy Alliance. Seam starts abovetwo low BRs. Follow this to ledge. Di-agonally right up wall (two more BRs)to finish steeply. Mike Law, Chris Bax-ter, Venus Kondos. 18.4.92

Red Sky 25m 13/14/16!Graded 13/14 on the FA, upped to 16on the second ascent, any other bids?Right of main face and left of face withdistinctive off-width is a grey buttress.Climb this (steep start) and veer upleft. Glen Donohue, Wayne Maher.4.4.92

A Gathering Of Dinosaurs 22m 17Good one. Seam and face 1½m rightof Red Sky. Step left at top to avoidheadwall. Geoff Gledhill, Chris Baxter,Sue Baxter, Kieran Loughran. 31.10.93

The Flying Game 15m 20The ‘distinctive off-width’ between RedSky (actually 16 rather than 13/14 inci-dentally) and Writers’ Block in fact re-quires no off-widthing. Take a #4SLCD and a #2 Big Bro (#5 SLCDsize). Chris Baxter, Rick White.12.4.93

Dangerous Liaisons 15m 17Starts right of Red Sky. Climb shallowcorner then through overlap. Continueup, finishing to the right. Peter Camp-bell, Sandy Moreton. 9.1.94

Writers’ Block 20m 21Great, but poorly protected down low.Up grey wall to seam in middle of face

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right of off-width. Over small roof andclimb horizontal breaks on wall above.Mike law, Venus Kondos, Peter Wool-ford. 23.4.92

Waiting For Mars 20m 21Loose and dirty. Up attractive finger-crack 4m right of Writers’ Block. Handcrack directly above. Step right aboveoverhang, up. Peter Woolford, Mikelaw, Venus Kondos. 23.4.92

(Unnamed) 20m 19Climb finger-crack as for Waiting ForMars. Climb right break in overhang,then take line of least resistance onwall above. FADU

Cold War 20m 20Good climbing but not easily protected.Step off block across trench a few me-tres right of the above climb and climbup left on wall into cave. Step right andclimb groove. Wayne Maher, GlenDonohue. 4.4.92

Sackcloth And Ashes 15m 17Steep corner-crack up right of ColdWar. Chris Baxter, Venus Kondos.18.4.92

Double Chin 15m 20/21Beautiful, steep climbing. Up buttressat far right end of cliff. Step left underbulge, then up and right to break (#3½Friend) below final bulge. Mike Law,Chris Baxter, Venus Kondos. 18.4.92

From A Ferret To A Fox 22m 20To commemorate Greg Child’s 36thbirthday (which would make him about44 now). First line at left end of cliff, leftof huge overhangs. Take a #3½ SLCD.Right-facing corner to roof. Traverseright under it. Up thin crack, step right,

up corner. Chris Baxter, Rick White.12.4.93

Mine 25m 14Easier version of Tank Tracks. Startfrom large, mossy boulder 3m up rightof Tank Tracks. Up and left on rib(loose blocks) to join Tank Tracks justleft of yellow rooflet. Up Tank Tracks.Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter. 15.5.93

NATO Direct Finish 10m 17Makes an excellent climb. From themantel on NATO (18), veer up right onheadwall to its right arête. Up. ChrisBaxter, Sue Baxter, Rick White.31.10.93

Chase The Dragon 18m 20Good position. Left arête of The FlyingGame. Starts in corner at thin seam onleft side of arête. A few hurried movesbring you right on to arête, then upstaying right of arête. Stephen Hamil-ton, Peter Campbell, Matt Derby, Mi-chael Hampton, David Karla. 9.1.94

Forgotten Years 15m 22Excellent, sustained. Starts on terraceup right of Writer’s Block. Left out ofcave, then left seam. Step right at roof,then scurfy up wall above. StephenHamilton, Peter Stevens. 23.1.94

Free Willy 20m 23Enjoyable, with a hard start. Curvingsickle left of Cold War. Step acrosstrench at left end of block. BR. Now upleft side of cave, then arête. StephenHamilton, Matt Derby. 12.3.94

Cassic 30m 171. 10m Good finger-crack left ofCheckpoint Charlie to below roof. 2.20m Traverse left to arête, then up it.

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Jeremy Boreham, Mike Wust. (alt)29.3.98

Moora RocksThis cliff is clearly visible oppositeWestern Bloc and is approached bywalking to the south end of WesternBloc, then down to the creek and upthe hillside opposite. The cliff is sur-prisingly high and extensive, but therock is generally inferior, some linesbeing dangerously loose. Climbershave visited the area previously, but noclimbs were recorded. All climbs cair-ned.

Cliff faces west. Walking time 15minutes. GR 270813

Charlotte’s Web 18m 15About a quarter of the way along thecliff from left is a blocky pinnacle infront of the face (landmark). Charlotte’sWeb is more or less above this and fol-lows a major black corner. Chris Bax-ter, Sue Baxter. 23.4.92

Family Affair 18m 13From Western Bloc this looks an excel-lent stepped hand-crack 3m right ofCharlotte’s Web. Loose blocksabound. There is a gully 10m right ofFamily Affair. Chris Baxter, Sue Bax-ter. 23.4.92

Return To Waterholes Road 25m18One of the better lines. Right-archingseam leading to crack (with distinctiveclump of grass), then easy ground, be-

tween two gullies near right end of cliff.Peter Woolford, Chris Baxter. 23.4.92

Castle Creek p.254Tombstone Blondes 12m 16Start left of Frying and Crying. Cornerto roof, then left and up crack. RayPerry, Gerald Gierer, John Knowles,Liz Sawyers, Michelle Scott, PeterThomson. 24.10.92

SOS 10m 17Subtle line with hard start 6m right ofpillar near right end of right-hand cliffand immediately left of conifer (notused). David Gairns, Chris Baxter.6.5.95

The Bonatti Pillow 12m 10Front of pillar 3m right of Grimace and1m right of Tin Men. Chris Baxter, SueBaxter, David Gairns, Michael Stone.26.3.95

Tin Men 12m 10Crack up left side of The Bonatti Pil-low’s pillar. Peter Smith, Mark Jones.April 1994

On The Road Again 12m 13Groove 2m left of Grimace. Chris Bax-ter, Sue Baxter, David Gairns, MichaelStone. 26.3.95

Temptation 12m 19‘The only way to overcome temptationis to yield to it.’ Oscar Wilde. Up bulg-ing wall 2m right of Wimping Out andjust left of cave. Chris Baxter, DavidGairns. 6.5.95

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Pacemaker 12m 14Groove 1m right of Dirty Weekend. Mi-chael Stone, Chris Baxter, Sue Baxter,David Gairns. 26.3.95

Designer Stubble 12m 19Take the biggest pro (to 18cm!). Off-width behind pinnacle between Joddand Solid As A Rock. Chris Baxter,Karen Muir, Peter Muir. 14.5.95

8c+ 10m 15Tell ‘em you led Oz’s first! Start as forJodd. Follow flake up and out left.Chris Baxter, Geoff Gledhill. 12.6.95

Greasy Daze 8m 11Crack just left of descent gully left ofSolid As A Rock. Geoff Gledhill, ChrisBaxter. 12.6.95

Dripping And Gripping 10m 14Line 2m right of Frying And Crying.Chris Baxter, Geoff Gledhill. 12.6.95

Femme Fatale 10m 14Steep but with amazingly commodiousholds. Start up right arête of cave 2mleft of On The Road Again. Up. ChrisBaxter, Cassandra Azzaro, GeoffGledhill. 10.6.96

Making Babies 10m 18Short V-groove 2m left of GreasyDaze. Left from top of this, then up.Chris Baxter, Geoff Gledhill. 10.6.96

Back Slider 15m 13Zigzag line 43m left of right end of mid-dle cliff. Andrew Webb, Glen Donohue,Wayne Maher, Phil Robertson.14.9.91

Young Ones Reign 20m 14Main corner 3m left of Back Slider.

Ross Taylor, Peter Canning, AndrewEccleshall, Barry Russell. 14.9.91

Stopping All Stations 20m 18Up wall on left of arête 9m left ofYoung Ones Reign. Right to arête atvague horizontal. Up to ledge, thensteep crack. Phil Robertson, WayneMaher, Andrew Webb. 14.9.91

Immoral Majority 14m 19Short corners 50m left of Geriatricks.Finish up right-facing corner belowtree. Peter Canning, Ross Taylor.18.8.91

StegglesFA. Storer, Brereton (not vice versa)

Castle Creek UpperCliffThis is an outstanding little cliff with su-perb, orange rock and good lines, par-ticularly corners. There are twopossible approaches, the easier isprobably to walk up Castle Creek fromHenham Track along the two (main)Castle Creek cliffs described in south-eastern Grampians guidebook, thenscrub-bash up and left to Upper Cliff.Alternatively, from Henham Track,walk east up first ridge south of CastleCreek. With luck you’ll pick up old foottrack leading to Castle Rock. From firstsaddle reached, turn sharply down left(northwest) from track to arrive at leftend of cliff after short, downward sidlethrough open bush.

Cliff faces north-northwest. GR 307778

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Dancing At Lughnasa 20m 13From saddle east of cliff (mentioned indescription of alternative approach),scramble down left towards main cliff.An outcrop is passed in 100m. Thisclimb is corner-crack towards right sideof this outcrop. Cairned. Follow line,then finish directly up wall. Chris Bax-ter, David Gairns. 8.7.95

The Hot Sun 30m 23Thin crack up left arête of main cliff(down right of Dancing At Lughnasa).1. 15m (crux) Crack, then step right toledge. 2. 15m Main, orange corner.John Smoothy, Salley Oberlin. 12.4.97

Vesuvius 30m 18Right one of two beautiful, orange cor-ners just right of The Hot Sun. Cornerto ledge on left. Steep little wall abovecorner, then up right to short crack.Roped scramble above. David Gairns,Chris Baxter. 7.5.95

Signs And Wonders 13m 19Excellent, black finger-crack in cornerabove block 10m right of Vesuvius. Ab-seil from tree on ledge. Chris Baxter,David Gairns. 26.10.96

Shaken, Not Stirred 13m 18Corner 4m right of Signs And Won-ders. Harder than it looks. Abseil fromtree on ledge. Chris Baxter, DavidGairns. 26.10.96

Smoke And Mirrors 30m 15Major corner system 6m right ofShaken, Not Stirred. Up and left intoline. Up it over perched block toscrubby ledge. Easily up and a littleright. Chris Baxter, David Gairns.7.5.95

A Whole Generation Lost In Space22m 19/20Steep and exciting climbing. Nearright side of highest and steepest but-tress are two pinnacles against face.From top of right one, climb wall to linewhich leads to overhang immediatelyleft of landmark guano stain. Traverseleft to bottomless line. Pull up into this,then step right above overhang intocrack (some loose rock). Finish up thisline. Chris Baxter, David Cairns.12.4.97

A Crash Course For The Ravers22m 19/20Similar to A Whole Generation Lost inSpace. Cairned. Line right of A WholeGeneration Lost In Space. Up easily toroof. Step left to cave. Steep cracks.Exit right at final roof. Chris Baxter,David Gairns. 4.6.95

Spice Girls 22m 18A health hazard for elderly gentlemen;take care with pro and rock. Groove2m right of A Crash Course For TheRavers. Up to ledge on right side ofscoop. Steeply back left, grooveabove. David Gairns, Chris Baxter.4.6.95

Leave Me Alone 13m 17Just round right arête of main wall (5mright of Spice Girls) is smooth, slightlyoverhanging wall with crack thinnerthan fingers. Use both trees to get go-ing, then climb (wider) crack above.David Gairns, Chris Baxter. 26.10.96

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Burkes BackyardSmall cliffs of limited potential, butgood rock and fine views of CastleRock. Park at creek crossing on Hen-ham Track 500m southeast of creekwith Castle Creek cliffs (it’s the nextcreek) (and 150m northwest of a trackwith a locked gate on west side ofHenham Track). Walk east-northeastup north bank of creek (open scrub)until cliffs appear opposite. Crosscreek and walk up to them. The middlecliff appears most promising.

Cliffs face north. Walking time 15minutes. GR 310770

Unorthodox 14m 20Middle of face then small left-facingcorner about 170m left of Grrr (on left-hand cliff). This climb is at left end ofwall capped by roof. Stephen Hamil-ton, Lisa lmer, Stuart lmer. 7.3.92

Horizon Gazing 14m 15Seams 50m right of Unorthodox. Stuartlmer, Stephen Hamilton, Lisa lmer.7.3.92

Grrr 12m 13Cairned. Crack 5m left of yellow cornerin middle of middle cliff. Tim Burke,Chris Baxter. 1.3.92

You Can’t Always Get What YouWant 14m 19Indeed. Poor pro but good climbing.Seamed arête 2m right of Grrr. Ste-phen Hamilton, Lisa lmer, Stuart lmer.7.3.92

Fanx 14m 18The line of the cliff. Hard start, then

easing. Corner 2m right of You Can’tAlways Get What You Want. StephenHamilton, Lisa Imer, Stuart lmer.7.3.92

The Land Of Nod 14m 17The short will know it on this and nextclimb. Cairned. RP crack, hand-crack,seam 2m right of Fanx. Chris Baxter,Tim Burke. 1.3.92

A Nod’s as Good as a Wink 14m 18Cairned. Seam, short corner 2m rightof The Land Of Nod. Chris Baxter,Tim Burke. 1.3.92

Bechervaise RocksThese are the band of northwest-facing outcrops immediately east ofCastle Creek Upper Cliff. From saddleon alternative approach to that cliff,continue uphill, east, on track towardsCastle Rock for 75m to 3m pinnacle ontrack (landmark). Contour left for 50mto first climb, Slow Fuse.

Walking time 45 minutes. GR 311781

It Started With A Kiss 16m 18Balancy face climbing. Cairned. Usetree to get on to face above overhangtowards upper left end of cliff, Stepright in break below final, short walland finish up finger-crack. Chris Bax-ter, Geoff Gledhill. 11.4.98

Humping In Cornwall 25m 18Splitter hand-crack. Cairned. Steepstart into major corner 15m right of ItStarted With A Kiss. Step up left tofoot of steep crack in left wall. Up thisto roof, right to crack through bulge.

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Up. Geoff Gledhill, Chris Baxter.11.4.98

It Ended With A Bang 15m 19Short but good. Cairned. Prominent,black, right facing corner 40m up rightof Humping In Cornwall. Tricky exit.Chris Baxter, Geoff Gledhill. 11.4.98

Pulling Faces 18m 19/20Cairned. Slender buttress split bycrack/seam below and just right of ItEnded With A Bang. (Rope thrownover nearby branch to protect start.)Chris Baxter, David Gairns, MichaelStone. 3.6.95

Slow Fuse 12m 17Cairned crack in wall 50m horizontallyleft of 3m pinnacle (landmark) on walk-ing track to Castle Rock. That is, onupper right side of Bechervaise Rocks,50m up right of Pulling Faces. Crackto horizontal break. Step right andclimb wall. David Gairns, Chris Baxter,Michael Stone. 3.6.95

Cirque CreekThis valley has a series of small out-crops, mainly on its west side. Head-ing south on Henham Track fromGlenelg River Road, creek is the firstcrossed which has concrete laid in it.(It is 2.7km south of Moora Creek andsecond creek north of the one withCastle Creek cliffs on it.) Walk east upcreek.

Cliffs face east. It takes about 10 min-utes to reach first outcrop and perhaps

40 minutes to reach final one. GR2B4796

★★ Shock Rock 23m 21Line right of middle of first buttress onnorth bank. Wayne Maher, GlenDonohue. 27.9.91

Dews And Dentils 20m 16From ledge on right side of ShockRock buttress, go up beside boulder tolittle corner and overhang. Step right,up crack and corner. Glen Donohue,Wayne Maher. 27.9.91

Ortis The Tortoise 12m 16Wanders. On left side of next buttress(with a big prow) four minutes’ walk upnorth side of valley. Up, step left, up,right to corner under overhang, up, left,right. Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue.27.9.91

Redundancy Package 16m 14Major corner towards left end of whatappears to be fourth outcrop up northside of creek. Gritty black rock. (Out-crop is distinguished by a yellow over-hanging section above a huge fallenblock about 20m right of RedundancyPackage.) Geoff Gledhill, Chris Baxter.2.11.91

Doubtful Invitation 16m 20Beguiling overhanging crack leading tosteep wall climbing with a sting in thetail. Recommended. Line 4m right ofRedundancy Package. Chris Baxter,Geoff Gledhill. 2.11.91

Bum Steer 20m 17A major but frustrating line. The offend-ing block should go. Last outcrop onnorth side of creek, near head of val-ley, has two major cracks. This is the

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left one. Huge loose block at top ofcrux section was avoided by the leaderclimbing down a little, then finishing upleft above tree. Seconded direct. ChrisBaxter, Geoff Gledhill. 2.11.91

User Friendly 20m 19Excellent crack right of Bum Steer. Pe-ter Canning, Glen Donohue, WayneMaher. 2.11.91

Castle Rock p.105No Hanky-panky 25m 17On lower southwest side of CastleRock is a wall facing northwest andvisible from Henham Track. It issmoother and cleaner than the rest ofCastle Rock. At left end of this an un-dercut crack (tricky start) veers up rest.David Gairns, Chris Baxter. 8.7.95

Solar Ridge p.190The following climbs are up to 30 min-utes walk along cliff-top from right endof cliff (where first four climbs de-scribed in guidebook are). Pass a cair-ned gully, then a broad scrubbysection, before reaching a cairned de-scent at far (east) end.

Moonshine 15m 1250m left of descent is a wall with twocorners. Shallow corner in arête left ofchimney and right of another corner.Glen Donohue, Wayne Maher. 1.12.91

Solarplexed 15m 15From block 10m left of Moonshine andon orange wall below overhangs, tra-verse left to arête and climb it. GlenDonohue, Wayne Maher. 1.12.91

A Day In The Life 15m 17Up middle of wall 13m left of Solar-plexed and 36m right of Slip, Slop,Slap. Up right over conglomeratebulge, passing right of bulges. Veerback left and up steeply. Wayne Ma-her, Glen Donohue. 1.12.91

★★ Pumped To The Point Of Panic18m 20Excellent, technical climb; possiblybest on cliff. First of two prominentcracks on first wall 40m left of Soul’sMidnight and 22m right of Liquid Sun-shine. Starts as finger-crack. WayneMaher, Glen Donohue. 1.12.91

The Long March 13m 15Stepped and roofed corner 50m left ofLS (Didn’t find a climb with these ini-tials. Ed.). Pass right of first roof andleft of second one. Ross Taylor, PeterCanning. 1.12.91

Pandora’s Box 18m 20Steep and fierce. Up first (of a pair) V-corner on orange wall 7m left of TheLong March, then left under overhangand up wall steeply. Peter Canning,Glen Donohue, Wayne Maher, RossTaylor. 1.12.91

The Last Crusade 18m 16From blade of rock against face 25mleft of Pandora’s Box, climb arête onleft of wall, then crack. Ross Taylor,Peter Canning. 1.12.91

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Blowfly 18m 15Start 5m right of The Last Crusade atblade of rock supporting cliff. Up toblock that forms short right-facing bot-tomless corner. Over and up. GeoffGledhill, Wayne Maher. 6.6.92

★ Solar Wind 18m 16Up middle of clean wall 4m right ofBlowfly, keeping left of weaknesses attop. Wayne Maher, Geoff Gledhill.6.6.92

English Channel 12m 11Distinctive off-width mentioned inguidebook. Ray Thomas, WarwickWright. 11.6.94

Break In Hostilities 12m 15Crack above broken jug 11m right ofLorraine. Warwick Wright, Ray Tho-mas, Stuart Willis. 11.6.94

Commando Assault 15m 16Easy crack above acrobatic start 38mright of where cliff breaks down. War-wick Wright, Ray Thomas, Stuart Wil-lis. 11.6.94

Code Name Z 15m 10Z-shaped corner-crack 10m right ofwhere cliff breaks down. Stuart Willis,Ray Thomas, Warwick Wright. 11.6.94

Nook 15m 6Pox. Small corner, then step right toarête on first little buttress ‘where thecliff starts to build up again’. WarwickWright, Ray Thomas, Stuart Willis.13.6.94

Honourable Discharge 17m 17Corner with roof at half-height severaleasy corners left of start of upper cliff.Left under roof. Crack. Warwick

Wright, Ray Thomas, Stuart Willis.13.6.94

Green Gap Pinnaclep.191The following two routes are approxi-mately 250m left of Green Gap Pinna-cle Arête, at left end of cliff.

Black Boys 45m 13Crack 2m right of arête at left end ofcliff, then chimney. Scramble up gully.Mark Connor, Stuart Willis. 14.5.94

Paint It Black 60m 141. 40m Crack 4m right of Black Boys,then off-width. Up. 2. 20m Chimney.Scramble up gully. Mark Connor, Stu-art Willis. 14.5.94

Burnt Shirt ButtressTo reach this orange wall, walk upridge from the Henham Track to GreenGap Pinnacle for 20 minutes to secondrock outcrop, then traverse 200macross hillside.

I Can Smell Something Burning18m 15In middle of main orange wall. Upbulges over apparently detached blockand sharp flake-crack to V-mantel,then up. Wayne Maher, GlenDonohue, Geoff Gledhill. 7.6.92

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Burnt Offering 15m 11Up corner left of I Can Smell Some-thing Burning, veering right. GeoffGledhill, Wayne Maher. 7.6.92

Washed Out 25m 17Start 4m left of I Can Smell SomethingBurning at twin-trunked tree. Up twincracks, bulges, then traverse right tofinish up I Can Smell Something Burn-ing. Glen Donohue, Andrew Webb.7.6.92

Gallery Creek p.195All the following routes are very goodbut also very short unfortunately.

Dishonour Among Thieves 15m 15The obvious line 12m left of DiscardedDreams. Up to steepening then stepright and up. Wayne Maher, WilmaOomen, Andrew Webb, James McIn-tosh, Glen Donohue. 12.11.94

Summer Daze 15m 20Shallow, left-facing corner 15m left ofPeripheral Vision. One BR. Wayne Ma-her, Graham Gittins, Phil Robertson.13.10.91

Ice Man 14m 19Bold. Wall 3m right of Depression Ses-sion. Wayne Maher, Peter Canning,Graham Gittins, Phil Robertson, RossTaylor. 12.10.91

Impressions 15m 21Committing start. Wall between DaintyApe and State Of The Art. Wayne Ma-

her, Graham Gittins, Phil Robertson.13.10.91

Daggy Dance 14m 18Major left-leaning overhung corner leftof Jugs Away. Over apex and upcrack. Phil Robertson, Graham Gittins,Wayne Maher. 13.10.91

Sporting Gesture 14m 17Line on left side of curved, recessedwall left of Daggy Dance. GrahamGittins, Wayne Maher, Phil Robertson.13.10.91

Fred The Scorpion’s Day Out 14m16Wall just left of Sporting Gesture. PhilRobertson, Graham Gittins, WayneMaher, Claire Robertson. 13.10.91

Post Modern 10m 17Left-leaning diagonal 10m left ofDaggy Dance. Phil Robertson, GrahamGittins. 13.10.91

Black Magic 20m 20Black slabby wall at start of face left ofOld World, New World. Two BRs.Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue. 28.9.91

Treacherous Old Men 20m 13Diagonal on slabby wall 10m left ofBlack Magic. Ross Taylor, Peter Can-ning. 12.10.91

Tyler’s Revenge 20m 18Right-leaning diagonal, then groove30m left of Black Magic. GlenDonohue, Wayne Maher. 28.9.91

Tour Of Duty 40m 20Excellent, left-leaning orange flake onleft side of main wall. Up right at steep-ening to small ledge. Line above, then

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wall. Glenn Tempest, Michael Hamp-ton. 22.2.92

Love At First Bight 22m 20Classic. Middle of Cream Wall (nextcliff left of main cliff). Four BRs. Ste-phen Hamilton, Michael Hampton,Glenn Tempest, Edwin Young. 15.2.92

Miracle Mile 20m 23Another classic. Sustained. Wall left ofLove At First Bight (two BRs). Hardstep right to BR on Love at First Bight.Veer up left. Glenn Tempest, MichaelHampton. 22.2.92

Slope On A Rope 18m 20Tricky start, then easier, then steepwall on left side of Cream Wall. GlennTempest, Stephen Hamilton, MichaelHampton, Edwin Young. 15.2.92

Playlunch Not Included 35m 22Diagonal left of middle of Recess Wall(next cliff left of Cream Wall), offeringsuperb Mount Rosea-style climbing.Slab (BR) to horizontal break, then linethrough two bulges (two PRs). Corner,then straight up. Michael Hampton,Glenn Tempest. 22.2.92

Canned Heat 10m 21Left leaning hanging flake at right endof front of Discarded Dreams buttress,just left of broken corner. StephenHamilton, Tim Burke. 8.2.92

After The Gold Rush 35m 16Line left of Icy Red. Phil Robertson,Wayne Maher, Claire Robertson.12.10.91

Icy Red 35m 16Right one of twin lines left of middle ofuppermost cliff (except for Discarded

Dreams area). Wayne Maher, GrahamGittins, Phil Robertson. 12.10.91

Lipstick Guanacos 48m 23Good face-climbing. From 1m right ofIcy Red (Featherwedge Wall), up (twoBRs). Right and up crack until it ends.Face, then bulge (BR). Finish just rightof major crack. Geoft Butcher. 24.5.92

Mucha Cerveza 40m 18Flake right of crack with tree at left endof uppermost cliff in area-Featherwedge Wall. Face to over-hang. Finish up right-leading ramp.Geoff Butcher. 4.4.92

Beady Yellow Eyes 42m 19From major crack 10m right of Icy Red(on Feather Wedge Wall), climb wall tooverlap. Into crack. Finish right. GeoffButcher, Chris Lawrence. 4.4.92

Booze Bus Breakdown 40m 19Last main crack, 20m right of BeadyYellow Eyes. Up (BR) to crack. Crack.Finish left. Geoff Butcher, Chris Law-rence. 17.4.92

Charcoal Lane 45m 161. 20m Thin, right facing corner at rightend of Discarded Dreams cliff to largeledge. 2. 25m Up easily from left endof ledge, then veer right up steep cor-ner. James McIntosh, John Pawson(alt), Meg Taylor. 12.11.94

Seclusion WallThis outcrop gives good face climbingon compact, grey, slabby rock. It is in

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valley between ridge running west fromGreen Gap Pinnacle and GalleryCreek (cliff). An overgrown Jeep trackleaves east side of Henham Track1.1km north of Eldorado track turn-off.Go up this for 200m to a high point.Park here. Up ridge for 100m, then tra-verse south across side of ridge andover a small valley. You should be ableto see lower (right) end of cliff from topof next low ridge. Go down to creekbed and up it to below main part ofcliff.

Cliff faces north-northwest. Walkingtime 25 minutes. GR 320700

Black Thunder 22m 15Left side of black streak at left end ofcliff. Right under overhangs and upweakness. Ross Taylor, Peter Can-ning. 30.11.91

Act Of Faith 22m 15Flake and shallow corner 4m right ofBlack Thunder. Glen Donohue, WayneMaher. 30.11.91

★ Literary Lunch 20m 1825m right of Act Of Faith, a cairnedcrack leads to a chimney-gully. ChrisBaxter, Tim Burke. 30.11.91

Give Me A Break 16m 13Shallow crack, groove, face (one BR)right of Literary Lunch. Wayne Maher,Glen Donohue. 17.11.91

The Secret 20m 14Line 2m right of Give Me a Break,which curves up left side of face. GlenDonohue, Wayne Maher. 17.11.91

★ Fallen Angels 18m 20Prominent, steep, right-facing corner

right of The Secret. Ross Taylor, PeterCanning. 17.11.91

Sugar Tax 20m 17Quite good. Cairned crack 4m right ofFallen Angels. Chris Baxter, TimBurke, Matthew McFadgyen. 30.11.91

Stuffed Kiwi 25m 14Right of Sugar Tax is an attractiveslabby grey wall. Stuffed Kiwi takes di-agonal from left to right on this. PeterCanning, Ross Taylor. 17.11.91

★ In A Daze For Days 20m 22Very thin and sustained face climbingprotected only by small wires. Climbslabby black wall just right of StuffedKiwi by vague, left facing corner-seamat half-height (about a third of the wayalong from left end of this wall). Movea little right to finish. Wayne Maher,Chris Baxter, Glen Donohue. 30.11.91

★ Mirror Man 20m 20Middle weakness of Sugar Tax wall,starting 2m right of In A Daze ForDays. Pass left of bulge 2½m right oftriangular block on Sugar Tax. Up pastslot. Finish up weakness in middle ofwall. Wayne Maher, Peter Canning,Glen Donohue, Ross Taylor. 17.11.91

★ The Soul Cages 20m 18Bulging slabby seam 1½m right of Mir-ror Man. Finish up right weakness.Ross Taylor, Peter Canning. 30.11.91

Predatory Pussy 15m 11Right of The Soul Cages is the descentgully. Predatory Pussy is 4m right ofthis, the left one of two cracks. PeterCanning, Ross Taylor. 30.11.91

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Ladies No Charge 25m 14Loose. 30m down and round right ofPredatory Pussy is a prominent crackon right wall of a recess (a bit likeBoomer at Mount Arapiles). Cairned.Climb slabby overlap to ledge. Upcrack. Chris Baxter, Tim Burke.30.11.91

Eldorado p.196Khamsin 15m 15Left facing corner 10m right of Kaitoke.Step right and up thin cracks on left.Glen Donohue, Wayne Maher, JamesMcIntosh. 25.5.96

Bagnolet 18m 18Line right of New Chum Hill. JeremyBoreham, Mike Wust. 10.4.98

Cancer Man 15m 14Line with big block up from Bagnolet.Jeremy Boreham, Hilary Lloyd, MikeWust. 10.4.98

★ Gilla 25m 21For Phil McMillan. Up to and throughorange roof 3m left of Good Question.Up to finish up right crack. JeremyBoreham, Mike Wust. 10.4.98

Lost Generation 20m 22Sustained, with great moves. The nextline up the ramp left of Gilla. Saunterout right so that a traverse can bemade back left into line. Up. JeremyBoreham, Mike Wust. 18.7.98

Muff 25m 18Corner, slab and final, shallow corner

on buttress right of Sunspot. JeremyBoreham, Mike Wust. 18.7.98

Treasure Of Fear 18m I5On the first outcrop reached, just rightof Sunspot. Climb crack on left side,through bulge to final slab. GordonBedford.

Pagan Virtue 15m 14As for Up The Spout. Left before chim-ney and finish up line. Mike Wust, Jer-emy Boreham. 18.7.98

Kill Me To Christen Me 17m 13Line in middle of small buttress left ofSteps Ahead and before the lnca Block(Lower Cliffs). Loose blocks. PeterThomson, Michell Scott. 24.5.92

Young Tarts And Old Farts 12m 15A diabolical mixture. Line 3m right ofKill Me To Christen Me. Peter Thom-son, Peter Smith. 23.5.92

Snake Eyes 20m 12Climb crack just right of cave on firstwall up from the Portiere. Left to line inmain wall. Left and up corner. ChrisLawrence, Geoff Butcher. 9.5.92

Cerveza And Snaggel 20m 16Shallow corner 10m left of Quiet Free-dom. Face above overlap. GeoffButcher, Judy Grove. 18.4.92

Proboscis Prevails 27m 19Crack 8m left of Cerveza And Snaggeland just right of little gully. Crack thinsand veers right. Geoff Butcher, ChrisLawrence. 17.4.92

A Push By Pigs 27m 19Start up Proboscis Prevails. Left and

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climb thin line (BR). Geoff Butcher,Chris Lawrence. 17.4.92

Blonde And Basic 24m 15Start at leaning pillar at right end oflnca Block. Corner, cracks to roof, thenup right. Gerald Gierer, John Knowles,Ray Perry, Liz Sawyers, MichelleScott, Peter Thomson. 25.10.92

Easter Bunny 15m 21Thin seam left of Predator. Bold movesto first pro. Finish up arête 2m left ofPredator. Greg Aimer, Christina Free-stone. 20.4.92

Dreamtime Wall p.201ACCESS: Easiest access is to walksouth on very overgrown Jeep trackleaving Eldorado vehicle track 100meast of Henham Track. It ends on ridgeopposite cliff. Descend mainly on screeto right end of cliff. Walking time 20minutes.

Original access to Dreamtime Wall(p201) is understated. 25 minutes getsyou to the White Woman area. It'sanother 20 minutes to the mega routeslike Bunjil.

Bunjil (p202) is worth ★★★

Dream Machine 20m 18Insignificant. Start just right of descentgully at left end of cliff. Up easily onleft, then right to seam. Up. WayneMaher, Graham Gittins. 10.4.93

Moomba 10m 12Start on the back of Bomenya on thesouthwest edge. Climb up over a cou-ple of sloping ledges and then crossover to the southeast side and followthe crack to the summit. Allan Hope,Bill Andrews. 10.3.90

Wikked Again 40m 15Chimney between Dreams Of OrdinaryMen, and Death Threat. Up. Step leftat narrowing, up to turn final roof onright. Mike Wust, Jeremy Boreham,Hilary Lloyd. 4.98

★★ White Woman 35m 16Great line. At head of gully immedi-ately left of grey buttress at right end ofcliff is a proud buttress with an excel-lent cairned crack up the middle. Mela-nie McIntosh, James McIntosh.27.10.91

Publish And Be Damned 35m 18Good, varied climbing. 1. 23m (crux)Publish And Be Damned climbs V-groove in right arête of the buttressmentioned above (White Woman).Step left above overhang at top ofgroove. 2. 12m Steeply up crack onarête. Step up right at bulge, then upand right more easily. Chris Baxter,Glen Donohue (alt), Wayne Maher.16.11.91

Dreams Of Ordinary Men 30m 20Sustained difficulty, some loose rockand sparse pro make this a trying lead.The climbing, however, is excellent. Atright end of cliff, 30m right of pinnacle(landmark) is a big grey buttress. Thisclimb takes rib just left of chimney onfront left side of this. Finish on ledge.(Scramble off left.) Wayne Maher,Chris Baxter, Glen Donohue. 16.11.91

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★★ Death Threat 40m 19Good one. Cracks on right arête ofgrey buttress at right end of dig (10mright of Dreams Of Ordinary Men). Leftbelow final overhang to big crack. Up.Ross Taylor, Peter Canning. 16.11.91Note: Death Threat is probably over-graded at 19, possibly 17.

Jammed Rope Syndrome 40m 8The large left facing corner crack im-mediately to the right of Death Threat.Mark Poustie. Solo. 5.3.93

Gone Walkabout 85m 181. 25m From between Burnum Burnumand Murinbungo, climb 5m to roundedblocks. Left for 6m on lip of bulge, thenup to belay on Burnum Burnum. 2.30m Diagonally right, then up to crackthrough overhang just left of arête andso to ledge on arête. 3. 30m Left andup wall. Keith Lockwood, Nick White.(alt) 26.2.92

Crazed Dreams 35m 15Start 2m to the left of the right arête onthe north face of the buttress immedi-ately (10m) right of the landmark pin-nacle. Up the discontinuous line.Campbell Mercer, Mark Poustie. 5.3.93

The Great DivideMiddle one of three obvious crags oneast side of Triplet Peak (north ofMount Frederick) as seen from HallsGap-Dunkeld Road. The crag on aver-age is 50m tall with rock and architec-ture similar to Bundaleer and MountRosea.

About 16km south of Halls Gap, find acrossroad adjacent to ‘Great DividingRange 420m’ and ‘Welcome to theShire of Ararat’ signs. Park by barrieron track running west. Walk along thisfor 500m, then turn left (south) on toIngleton Track. Follow this for 500mand take to bush where track bendsslightly to east following an uphill sec-tion. There’s a big rock on right (uphill)side of track. Walk up to crag throughopen bush, keeping just right (north) ofa creek. Cross creek above someboulders when hillside steepens. Youshould reach the cliff near Bundaleer-type wall (complete with ‘brains’) withan overhang at half its height.

Walking time is 40 minutes. Climbs arelisted right to left. To descend, abseil45m from anchors atop Choc Wedge,or tackle the revolting gully on northend of crag. GR 344717.

Sugar Boy 50m 18Interesting and varied climbing onBundaleer-type rock. 1. 25m Climbcorner at left end of grey and orangewall, moving right round first overhang.Continue up corner, and left under roof(loose rock) to good ledge. 2. 25mTraverse right under overhang (PR), tomajor line. Follow this, which is surpris-ingly sustained, to top. Michael Hamp-ton, Geoff Butcher. (alt) 30.12.96 (pitch1), completed 16.3.97

Cornetto 50m 19Steep and brittle. Second pitch wasoriginally climbed as second pitch ofSugar Boy. Left of Sugar Boy are twoshort, orange corners facing eachother. Start just left of left corner. 1.20m Pull through overhang on jugsand continue up cracks to belay as for

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Sugar Boy. 2. 30m Up crack, veeringleft to climb wall just right of chimney.Move right near top to belay. GeoffButcher, Michael Hampton 3.1.97

Round left is a big, shallow baybounded on its left by a right-facingcorner.

Choc Wedge 55m 20Exciting crux, but second pitch is crap.Halfway up grey wall is a scoopedoverhang. Start below crack throughleft side of overhang. 1. 42m Followline to bushy ledge on left. Up shallow,facing corners and step right to rib onarête with distinctive hole. Step acrossto rib. Move awkwardly up crack, thenface left of crack to niche (possible be-lay). Continue up line to ledge underoverhang. 2. 13m Move right to corner,pull up, then back left above overhang.Up. Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton.3.1.97

Rock Melon 59m 20Classic corner on left of bay offers ex-cellent, mixed climbing, with an ex-posed traverse. 1. 43m (18) Climb slab(small wires) to horizontal and intoshort corner. Follow crack to next cor-ner/ramp. Step right to good ledge un-der roof. 2. 8m (20) Step up left andhand traverse middle break to arête.Up to good ledge. 3. 8m Step right andclimb crack. Step left to exit. MichaelHampton, Geoff Butcher. 3.1.97 (firstand third pitches), completed 8.12.97

Melting Moments 50m 18Wall and arête left of Rock Melon. Sus-tained. 1. 42m Up Rock Melon to firstsection of orange corner. Move left onto wall and follow steep cracks andflakes that lead up, then back right al-

most into Rock Melon. Step back leftand up to bollard. Up wall left of arêteto overhang, short corner, then RockMelon’s ledge. 2. 8m As for RockMelon. Michael Hampton, GeoffButcher. (alt) 3.1.97 (On FFA, belaytaken on bollard.)

Mount Frederickp.204Resurrection Direct Finish 35m 166a. Crack in orange wall. Corner, thentraverse left to avoid overhang. GeoffGledhill, Jeremy Gledhill. 30.3.97

Echo Creek Wallp.210Altruism 35m 15Shallow comer 5m right of Echo AndThe Bunny Men. Glen Donohue,Wayne Maher, Andrew Webb. 25.1.92

(Unnamed) 14Broken corner right of caves, leadinginto Echo And The Bunny Men. An-drew Eccleshall, Peter Canning.25.1.92

False Exit Direct Finish 20False Exit to roof. Up steep wall on left.Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue, AndrewWebb. 25.1.92

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Mirranatwa GapSharp peak with easy slabs seen fromJensens Road in the Victoria Valley.Park on the Gap. 400m west of theGap and 300m east of a quarry, enterthick bush on the south side of theroad and walk uphill for 10-15 minutesto foot of slabs.

Cliff faces west. Walking time 20minutes. GR 283562

The Last Unicorn 236m 61. 50m Rope-length up from toe ofmain slab to boulders. 2. 50m Trav-erse 4m right to nose. Slab to break inoverlap. Diagonally left to shallowgroove at foot of corner. 3. 30m Up leftbelow overlap to black block. Upthrough overlaps to big crack andstance. 4. 50m Slab to top of pinnacle.Scramble 30m along ridge to foot ofnext slab. 5. 46m Right arête to top ofpinnacle. To notch behind. 6. 10mSlab. Descend by following ridge(roped at first) past summit. Followridge down to Gap. Gordon Talbett,Peter Watling. (alt) 29.3.92

Guinea Pigs Picnic 158m 6Climbs slab left of main slab of theLast Unicorn, then crosses gully be-tween and joins The Last Unicorn. 1.45m Slab to overlap, up beside it, thenstep right over it. Up to second over-lap on right. Over it. 2. 47m (3; no pro)Step left and climb slab to bushes andhuge blocks. 3. 26m Veer right to over-lap. Up on to block. Shift belay rightacross gully. 4. 40m (crux) From hori-zontal break, go up right over slabsand overlaps to join The Last Unicorn

atop pitch three. Peter Whitfield, Gor-don Talbett. (alt) 30.1.93

Kangaroo PaddocksFrom Yarram Gap road drive south onLynchs Track to grassed clearing onleft 450m before end of track andlocked gate. Walk east on indistincttrack on right bank of gully to pad-docks. Follow these round up right.Walk a few minutes uphill throughtrees on right. (The cliff may be privateproperty.)

★★ Brave New World 20m 20Line 2m left of distinctive chimney withchock stone near middle of cliff. Steep,good rock. Past BR and shallow cornerto ledge. Wide crack. Wayne Maher,Glen Donohue. 14.11.94

Nankeen Wall p.211Shitty Encounters 48m 17Start 10m left of Extinct at left side oflarge ceiling/corner with guano in it. 1.?m Dirty, right-facing corner to smallledge. 2. ?m Corner past guano stainto small roof. Left, then headwall.Geoff Butcher, Mark Crisp 14.4.96

Not Lichen It 40m 14Small, right-facing corner 2m left of leftbuttress from ledge. Follow twin cracksthat converge on upper wall to dirtyexit. Geoff Butcher, Mark Crisp 14.4.96

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Drain On The Membrane 35m 20Mossy slab 1m left of Judak to guano-stained scoops. Pass guano (BR) toright-facing corner. Scoops on right(pro in corner) on small edges, thenback to corner at overlap. Over this toslab. Geoff Butcher, Mark Crisp14.4.96

Easy Hill p.212About ten metres to the right of wherethe track reaches the crag, just pastthe initial buttress, is an alcove withgrey rock on the small, right facingwall. These two routes take the cor-ners of the alcove on the left and rightrespectively.

Electronic Aadvarks Say Yes!(E.A.S.Y.) 13m 19The right facing corner/crack. Straightup to ledge. Peter Ryan, Sue Barzda-Ryan. 24.2.96

Simple 13m 12The left facing corner. Follow the cor-ner crack to the ledge. A harder finish(about grade 15) is to continue fromthe ledge through the crack in the largeboulder on the ledge. Peter Ryan, SueBarzda-Ryan. 24.2.96 (includes finishas indicated).

Mt Abrupt p.213Lots of vagueness here, any help?

Ultima Thule 150m 18Goes up middle of wall between Hum-ble Pie and Flower Power Start bycave right of Gormenghast. 1. 30mRight leading line to ledge on left edgeof giant cave, roofs. 2. 40m Move offcliff after reaching it to arrive at blockyterrace under overhangs. Belay 7mleft. Wall tending right until aboveroofs, then mantel to cave. Up fromright of cave to stance. 3. 40m Walltending left to short, overhangingweakness in cliff-girdling band. Wall tostance. 4. 30m Veer left up wall tosmall, vertical wall with horizontalcracks. Up to overlap, then left and upto terrace. 5. 10m Through summitroof. Keith Lockwood, Ray Lassman.5.10.94

Routes are described from right to left.The first two routes are on a pinnaclejust before Banksia Wall.

Vapour Trail 20m 14Small corner, then up middle of wall.Geoff Butcher, Chris Lawrence.28.12.94

Brownie Points 20m 15Arête, moving on to left wall to passsteepening. Back right to finish. GeoffButcher, Chris Lawrence, Rhyl Shaw.17.12.94

The next four routes are on the wallbefore the overhangs.

Queuing Masses 23m 15Flake on right of small, orange wallwith two distinctive lines where trackpasses close under cliff, then veer toarête, ledge. Headwall to easierground. Walk left to tree abseil. GeoffButcher, Rhyl Shaw. 1.1.94

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Line Up, Everyone 23m 17Up to roof 2m left of GM (QM? Ed.),then left on to face. Abseil off tree.Geoff Butcher. 1.1.93

Corporate Ladder 18m 15Dirty at the top. Wall right of Live AndLet Fly. (Another route I didn’t find. Ed)Peter Campbell, Sandy Moreton.18.12.93

Wuthering Heights 145m 21/22Takes prow of Southern Buttress, rightof Power Dive. 1. 25m As for PowerDive. 2. 25m (crux) Corner with over-hangs. Right round second-last over-hang, then back left and over final oneto ledge. 3. 25m Diagonally right upwall to small, right-facing corner. Upthis, then right to prow at foot ofwhite/speckled rock. Step right to ex-posed stance. 4. 45m Up right side ofprow. Easy ground; overhang, steepwall; then smooth face. Now up prowto ledge. 5. 25m To top. Keith Lock-wood, Simon Mentz. (alt) 21.10.97

Methane Magic 28m 17Up Whiplash (Cheesecake) for 2½m.Traverse up left on stepped flake. Fin-ish up middle break in wall to bushyledge. Descend as for Whiplash. JackLewis, Rob Martin. 17.1.99

Blueberry Oasis 130m 18Starts as for A Bit Of The Other. 1.25m Up to belay in scrub where it be-comes possible to traverse right. 2.15m Traverse right to front of buttress.Up to ledge. 3. 15m Crack and line tostance 3m below roof. 4. 30m Roofand crack to ledge. 5. 40m right andup to tree. Scramble off. GlenDonohue, Wayne Maher. (alt) 2.10.93

Classic Collector 20m 21A climb of considerable quality consid-ering its location. The leader used arest 4m below the belay, eliminated bythe second. There is an abseil anchoron the ledge. This is also a betterplace to finish Harassed Tweed. Startat Harassed Tweed. Move up and leftpast a fixed wire to a rest, then stepback right and continue straight up tobelay ledge. Wayne Maher, GlenDonohue. 6.3.94

Handle With Care Direct Start 30m15Makes the route independent of CreamCheese. Start on the same ledge asNever Love A Stranger. Up left leaningcrack into the wide crack of HandleWith Care (where it traverses fromCream Cheese). Glen Donohue,Wayne Maher. March 1994

Green Haze 30m 16Start 3m left of Cream Cheese at thegroove starting from a ledge, accessedfrom Old English gully. (The initialshort corner was avoided because itwas dirty and poorly protected, how-ever, it was seconded.) Up the groovejust left of the arête past natural proand a bolt. Continue to the secondbolt then step right onto the arête. Upa few metres to belay on a small ledge.Traverse off right into Cream Cheeseand to the large ledge. Glen Donohue,Graeme Smith. 7.5.94(Abseil gear has been left at the leftend of the large ledge. However, theblock is hollow so use it at your owndiscretion.)

Beta from Jack Lewis:

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Some confusion exists about directionsto the “Southern” and “Northern” cliffsas described in the guide book.

The “southern cliff” could be best de-scribed as the most southerly of themain run of cliffs facing east overlook-ing the tourist road. (This would clearup any possible confusion with anothercliff situated north of the cheesecake.)Furthermore, the guide notes couldsay (p.213) “The southern cliff isreached by sidling right (ie north-east_on a slight grassy pad from this trackbefore it steepens ... etc.”

Also note that the “huge red over-hangs” (p.217) are brown/red and arelow on the cliffline.

The “northern cliff” appears to be theshort length of cliff immediately southof Signal Peak as shown on the1:25000 Southern Grampians map. - Ifthis is so, why not note this fact?

THE CHEESECAKE

Flay: This climb is probably grade 12or 13 now (certainly not 8) as holds ap-pear to be missing. It is best to finishthe climb by moving up right from the3rd cave level through a break in theslab (to avoid prickly bushes obstruct-ing the main line). Pitch length is thenapproximately 28 metres.

Velvet Vice: An excellent sustainedgrade 16 first pitch to the abseil chain -it certainly deserves a star. Pitchlength here is 23m (not 33m as calcu-lated using the guide, ie total 63m lesssecond pitch of 30m) therefore a singlerope can be used if abseiling. The sec-ond pitch looks horrible/useless.

Old English: The wide V-corner belowlichen covered rocks. The first pitchnow has two abseil rings on the leftledge at approximately 27 metres.

The second pitch also looks horribleand the route description is alsounclear (going up right via the ribheads into lichen covered bulges/roofs,while going up the wall on the left endsin dense scrub in a corner! -furthermore there is no “gully” asdescribed.

From Wade Stevens:

1. THE SUNDECK:A climb was missed out (only one?Ed.)Blame It On The Sun 15m 25The line from the right side of a flake atthe left end of the cliff and leads upright. Stephen Hamilton, Mat Darby.9.10.63

2. THE TERRACES p.19Permachalk FA date should be 31.3.96(not 31.1.96)

3. NETHERBY TOWERS p.25Burnp And Grind should of course beBump And Grind.

BARBICAN WALL

This beta arrived too late to be in-cluded in part one of the update.

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Corrections the South-Eastern Grampians

update part one.

1) STORM:A) Rope drag necessitated us endingpitch 1 before the belay site used byDewhirst on FA. Mark Poustie belayedat the “foot of crack in shallow corner”(21.3.98). This is about 10m before thedescribed 1st belay in Baxter 1991.Baxter pitches are 39m/27m, ourswere approximately 29m/37m. How-ever Baxter would be against changing

the write up, since it“changes history”,so maybe add thenote “watch drag”.

B) Recommend cor-rection to Baxter de-scription. Thesecond “small cor-ner” described inBaxter 1991 (our 1st

belay was at itsbase) is a veryprominent feature,visible from theground. Recom-mend you replace “… traverse to foot ofcrack in small cor-ner which is fol-lowed to aproblematic exit(crux) … “ etc, with;“Swing back Raround arête (watchdrag) and traverseright to foot ofprominent, shallowL-facing cornerwhich is followed(crux) to a problem-atic exit R. Belay ona block 4m above.Finish up right wall.”See topo

2) STORM AND MARY: (See V.C.C.New Routes 1999, Rock #38)From the ground, (and having doneStorm and put up a new route on thisface next to it) I can’t see how StormAnd Mary is different to Storm Variant(1982). Storm And Mary pitch 2’s“vegetated gully” is atrocious – MarkPoustie led this on our own Storm as-

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cent (21.3.98). This vegetated gully ap-pears to be the only new climbing. StillWayne is probably the man to ask.[Which was done, this was his re-sponse: “Looking at the topo, I believewe did in fact repeat most of Storm, sodelete it.”](NB this vegetated gully is allof ½ m left of the [clean] “right wall”that Baxter/Dewhirst used on FA ofStorm.)

3) OCEAN RAIN: (See V.C.C. NewRoutes 1999, Rock #38)Would be clearer if described “Start onL side of Doldrums arête. Up to Ledgeon arête at 5m, then up to take over-hang on L side.”

4) All initials at base of climbs arechipped into rock (not painted) and areall now very faint. The only exceptionis the painted “R” 4m right of ManOverboard.

5) Do not use gully between Queepegand Morgan as access up to or downfrom the top of the cliff.

6) 8m right of Storm is a major line witha prominent large groove (aka dihedralthese days) at about 20m. There wasan old runner abandoned in thisgroove, evidence of an unsuccessfulattempt. They backed off because of ahuge “widow maker” poised at the topof this large groove. (Still there …creepy … I spent an hour trying to dis-lodge it … unsuccessful.)

7) PIRATE: Boy, where to start.This face contains Pirate DF, Solitare,Harbinger. There are quite a fewledges, corners and rooves, so fromthe ground (and even while on theclimbs) it is hard to know which the

one the description refers to. Solitairedescription is correct, but no mentionof how to finish. Recommend “ … tofinish up thin crack to narrow ledge.Pitch 2: Step L 3m and finish up PiratePete (14?) or Pirate DF (19)”, or some-thing similar. For Pirate I recommendyou use (i) the small tree and narrowledge at 15m (same narrow ledge ason top of Solitare, which is less than20m, say 15m) and (ii) the prominentbulge in Pirate description. These areunique features visible from theground. (We weren’t sure where wewere in relation to all the corners,ledges and rooves until I hit a verychalky overlap on Pirate DF … 10mbelow the top!) Pirate then becomes:Pirate 50m 161. 15m (Crux) Up steep flake 4m R ofRamrod Arête to a narrow ledge and asmall tree. 2. 35m Move R 2m thenstraight up wall L of the prominentbulge to (a ledgeblow) a small roof,which is passed on its L. Traverse Rand up along ledges. (We only did Pi-rate DF, which finishes through theroof, so I can’t confirm the last part ofthe description. 57m is too long, it can’tbe much more than Stormbringer’s42m; I’d guess Pirate is 50m long.)

8) Which brings us to PIRATE DIRECTFINISH:Once again the power of people toconfuse is amazing …Recommend: “Up Pirate pitch 2 tosmall roof. Over this using L-leaningflake. Move back R 2m then up thincrack in bulge (RPs). Steep finishstraight up headwall.” (Adjectives like“L-leading flake” and “thin crack” are allthat’s needed here.) (Possibly the ad-jectives were edited out by Baxter

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when he received the FA party’s de-scription.)

9) The new climbing on Pirate DF(above “the small roof”) is very engag-ing and good. It’s worth a star, but the35m (16) approach to this 15m ofclimbing detracts somewhat. There is abetter approach to this 15m (19)though. NiNa and I have invented a

link (10m long or so) between the topof the new climbing on StormbringerLHV and this 15m (19) Pirate DF toogive an excellent combo route. Seetopo. I would say it’s worth giving thiscombo route a name. It becomes thebest 18/19 on the crag and rescuesStormbringer LHV and Pirate DF fromirrelevance in one fell swoop (modest,

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eh?). See new routes in this issue ofARGUS.

10) RAPIER:a) Start is more than 5m R of The Pi-rate. Note: Maher describes Solitaireas as 5m R of The Pirate (Rock 19).Rapier starts approximately 8m R ofThe Pirate.b) What’s with the so-called holier-than-thou Vics chipping initials into therock? (Refer “NSW Climbing: The bull-shit rebutted”, Argus July 1999).What’s with the huge “X”?c) Calling pitch 2 of Rapier a “corner” isfar too modest. Recommend “Climbscrubby, blocky line to major orangecorner.”

11) The tree you use to abseil off afterdoing Mutinous Dog DF is at the firstanchor of Morgan. Add to Morgan: P1“Up crack on L to ledges and tree. 2)17m (Crux) Climb … “

From James McIntosh:

The access for Peverill Pillar (p13) isout of date because the track has beenrelocated. I couldn't even find theoriginal. Probably best to say take thenew track to Boronia Peak to the thirdsaddle (take off point for Gate of NorthWind), back track about 200m thenbash down to find the crag which over-looks the old track.

Gate of Nth Wind (p14) is actually onthe NE side of the range, not the SWso you may want to change its se-quence.

Powertower (p23) is out of sequence, itshould be after Little Joe Hill.

Spring Fever (p26) is out of sequencewith the other routes on The Grand OldMan. It’s probably worth mentioningthat if you approach from PipelineRoad, you need to scrub bash straightup the hill, not follow the track up therange. Glen and I made the mistake offollowing the track, and wasted most ofthe morning walking back along theridge stopping to check every poxy cliffwe passed to see if they were TheGrand Old Man.

From Wayne Maher:

THE TERRACES

The routes should be described fromthe right to the left. I would have to goin and check out the exact order, butas a guide I would guess them to be...Slab on right side of the cliffWill Improve with TrafficBitter And Twisted (had been topropedby myself and Glen before someoneelse got in and bolted it)Impasse (worth three stars when theone aid to finish goes)Hanging On The TelephoneThen further left of the steep stuff is ...Air PlayLeft of this is a major gully dividing theleft and lower cliff line from the previ-ous routes not necessarily in this exactorderRed Red Wine, Black Lace Bra, Per-machalk, Spare Ribs, Pension Day,Black Rock, Sonic, Boom, Dawn Patrol??, Nerve Gas, Marching Order

LITTLE JOE HILL

I did a new route with Glen, Pete Can-ning and Norm Booth two Easters ago,

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I am sure that I wrote it up but at pres-ent I cannot find any reference to it(and I can’t find it either. Ed.). It will nodoubt turn up, however it was calledParents Without Partners and is nearBond Away. (I think).

We also repeated some of the existingroutes hereabouts and they were alsovery good. Did you notice that MaleBonding has gone from Gr 16 to 10 inthe new guide. (16 is correct. Ed)

Old Crumpet/His Best Four YearsThere are two thin cracks to the right ofthe diagonal line that is New Wave?Microwave!. Old Crumpet starts up thefirst crack then moves right into thenext crack which is followed to the di-agonal break, then up the thin crackabove. His Best Four Years follows thefirst (left most) crack all the way to thediagonal then moves right slightly tofinish up the same upper crack as OldCrumpet. What a mess!

I don’t remember Dawn Patrol being“excellent” although it may have beenrelatively sustained.

CROCODILE ROCK

Info: Checks and balances is at least atwo star route at grade 19. I felt thatElephant Man was a good line of anold fashioned nature at grade 18 wortha star

RURAL ROCKS

Info: Probably the best route, qualitywise, is Happy Aid, worth a star or two.Hobby Bolter and Sue’s Climb arequite pleasant also. Another Roadside

Attraction would be great if it wasn’t forall the bolts.

Rapier Direct Finish is worthtwo starsand has become a trade route.

NEW AREA

STOCKYARD WALLIt’s the 711 metre peak 2km west ofMajor Mitchell Plateau. Average qual-ity cliff, fair bit of potential.

Access: Park on Grampians TouristRoad at unmarked Stockyard Track500m northeast of Stockyard Creek(about 6km north of Jimmy Creek).Walk east along vehicle track to clear-ing just past the 9th earth hump. Takethe overgrown left fork in the track for 5minutes ‘till 100m past a cairn. Walknortheast up hill to summit (711m) theneast down a chimney descent. Aboutan hour from the road.

Movement At The Station 20m 16About 80m right of the descent chim-ney is an attractive orange wall.Around right of this is a blocky cornerleading to a north facing wall. Up cor-ner and wall, moving left around thearête. Melanie McIntosh, James McIn-tosh. 16.5.98

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