southern france

7/29/2019 Southern France

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THE CITIES OFUTHERN FRANCE -

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WAR DEPARTMENT WASHINGTOEl,

POCKET GUIDE TOTHE CITIES OF SOUTHERN

FRANCE


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CONTENTS


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BORDEAUX !I%ehttima you evm b d f lkmwmWW probablyw* 7011were a kid and your dad me telling about when he went tg war.h W e r l d ~ I M m m w w a m o f e W b h k n &5nFranc&. Thed h hat 3- neaz~G d e o u xwe& -comt&hdby the Ib Bamm was dm he port whereAxmy Enginem.h h W emkk ed fnr Amrim in 1777.think wh& ybu1 4at amap, Tt,ia &re l ib 8ew Or1&m rn theMkiesippi, ~ S U Mhe port is 6Q d a mtheast from the At-lsnbiu up the G l f ~ ~ m By l p d 5m r md Ga mm Emmhmver, B d ~ u xs anlg $0 milm east knuh 8~ of g i m yac- the &t &ma h m m m . Ihpo~ulaikmheore &e war,24Bw,nah it the fourth lmg& eitg-fiFrance.E v q W g knows wh& %&am ikb o r n foesThe & a i m to #lm i 3 imnd~E&mq L h u t 450d e a AadnF l ~ u t b ,he mar& big En@& pork. At Le VEEWXmPcmmm #EAP.S, th*mihemportald $b*wpis 8 nmmuank cmw


6/49

mmmtin tbe&a&me of Laf ayette during t h e &valutionmyW ~ Pnd t% e landing of ;Amefins@ stdr2iizd in'1917.The &amel is narrow mil diiEeult far large &ips. G d -chomge is p ld fu l : B a r n LBVmdon w h w t h e 5% sixrniZer%'widsP om anchor-t t a p alaneipmmidhg a port and'atP ~30miles upskm$f~,. A chain of idimds exten*%16~ a s ~ n 9 q t m m~ ;to tb.innqmost point ofthewtum+ywba*t b e M & t h e - m r i v m j&. +Bmdeaax is le rmles from t b t river jundpn, and it-is onlyM f i r t h e r toB a r n and its twomilm of wharves.Th e @fydBordiaaux is bnilt in a m e ong the w e d bsnkof lw Qaa~~me.Quays and ware ho k 1im the &re for fourmil-& Thc&ehere is about one-third sf a mile wide. AtrowBhe fik&p tb fsmhrbof La B o E whi& can be d a d ryMa@!F *$.The h b ~m~m h d h the largest mmgohg ships,but auallerereftdeo.~w- Of Bodeauf upsh.eam onW 9%-ie c+mmerce

a d ~m;&eGtBE&l d.bUdiC h & tot h~Bdditermnean.&cumion stmm&r~a ply the riverin summer.~~ has been a B ~ u r b h gown dmx Roman k-h*Them agBun#@ah it wast a-provhualmpftal. It endured the yoke

gey rethrned in theGttb Of castil~on%1453,. jLater Muia 2 3 enmuraged th e cithw by orgmisiigthe pair-kkprsnt O l ~ ~ n d t b a ~. r. BkIhm of &beln#n~*bwho came 1-r were far sight4 Aa a mmlt the BmdthigreWIed in I W a ph& he 'gabell&* ra farm ofdt tax. During:18th ant~wy.gr,eammm expagdd pmtlg, Oovemm ag-

1Iointed b t ? ~ emwnspnt a lat ofmoney butifsing the city,In 1878tb goveaunent was trstmterm~to B h m cfro119 Tours when the Germam w m ppraaching. Bdawagain became th e a t f French g~wmafw h m Paris w a sWuratened by the G e m - inAugW 1811

&mud fhe Town The hart of m d e m B~deauxs t l ~ eELWEn LA W D ~Amma hrn tkt~PLm is the G mT d w uilt in lTti3-K~and1 1 W 4 8 6 1 j a


7/49

. .m d in I is one of the &at O~eatsrsx Ermh~with a porticoof22Curinman calumus. men the,g,otrt!nmmtm t d to Bprdcikm.in 18'18,it wa 5 in this thater that the N t x t h I &-m bly m ~ m d

j The P~lmBmtmiaax,clsQ called thePmt deP ime , formany ( hhd epon as the &I@W i in ths.warld, It

i"ashilt of &ue a i ~ dbrick in 1 8 l M t . It is 530 JD& lung, 16y d s .cRide rand HIthedver iu 11ham amha

dPoq can alsomom t ,&roue ~ v e rhe Mi2road briw orm e Porn -I,Q=% f1.on1the Pont cteBord&nx.fi , . T~B- of old &&asti am marked by the CooaaTI--uhua Theold city did not extend in the othsr diiectim beyondth e g @moo- which w s built on the tsite once occu-pied bg-&aatl&Thefquare is 426 ya* loeg and$60yards wide. The mnthwe9t sanrer of the Race des Q u h ~ c w ~ m rptis into the Plwe da la h d d i a .

The b ~ b of Bardmrur sra hCam wain hoppiug Are&- 1~ - v - h - s n d theRna STE.CATBEEXME ,- O s r e o f ~ ~ ~ ~ r n i n ~ r ~ ~ i s t h e ~ ~ ~ $ m n ~ ~ ~~ Z t i c h . ~ ~ ~ Thema& digftwBtbe PLACEmu c k m m w c l l e e ., ~ d e T w q g ~ ~ d i n g o t z ~ s fb a U h n m s i n t o t b e ~r


8/49

is c cl1urcJ1built on tilesib of an mdiec cathed~d,Part3 of thebuilding data from the lath to 16th c a ~ h ~ t i w .Amws from thespacious -re occttpiad by St.Seurin is the!EWrm mz V-. Itwas fiFliZtMe en 177f-82, but waedestroyed by &e.. It wns re-stored in 18W. The building served ats the Impexid Palace in1- and th e royalm i d ~ n c en 1816.h e f-the Gothic&d&eanthemFrance 8-L the C~THE-I- *. =so eeu reach it from tlm Rat Bordeauxby th-e &urn Victor-&@. h & r Gathie &ee k the churchpf ST.Mmm~It is near the liver a little above ther Punt deBordeaux. The bell tower of St.W&el is%&Ieet hi& $he high-mt @muthemF r m . T l i ~pi1-awa s built in 147242, bbt a guled e s h p d it h 176& It wm ~lebuiltiu 18614 a d has bwnby sir htttresw,so dan't hesitate tqrnplre e trip upht~hetower if youst a e h c e .The ch& d 9n C.rm r in the .Ftigan quarter so&& of$kMkhd andwaso m thechapel of apawmhlBenedictine abbey.&. Crab was fomded in t4e 7th century, rebtlilt h Romal-eeqne style in the 10th wnturg., dhred savsnal timas, and rer&red to ite PI-t condition in f h ~Qthm t u r y . Th@ Bw

p u &ween the&ul.clres of St, Wwhd andcrtdnrnent &add be no problem in Tkw&~ux- 'fbm arethw%smanfamusic halls, and at the Amnm dn 'Baumtb-t he Pare Bwdel& p a cm m glsm bald fights aud bornrmce Zrrxek at tcdkw q ihe FC& ta

sight fur a t i m t y sddiBww d d e frola tlwPant Be Bordeaux. There p u d out aver th 5%a ~ d h o ~!15tU ~ e em mure wine cell!^^ innhann agwheree l sLinfb x d d .-=ne dG&au=% 7 piamtion centrrsbmb are built r&tt.rmd, 3llne tm in-becousz ship haw carried maw andthan hum any d h e ~ r t .

st 700 ymrs t b mrcbn t s of Bordeauxcash to make that nameman s m e -
mailto:Victor-&@mailto:Victor-&@


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, in trying ta decide which wine were and which were not entitled, to the use of b t ama On February 18, 1911,a national lawwas@ which mid that th e only wines which can b.e sold as%dwux win@ are those made from grapes gathered within theQ l m r D EW~ .The Gironde Department is an area named after th e GirondeE h q . Before t l ~ ewa r the Department was turning out moreI thm84,080,000 gallons ofw h e a year-all of it."Bordemnr -wine."Thebe& Bordeaux wines i r e made from th e vineyards of n par-tidarly good d t e , md they am always sold under the name of1 their nativeestate If yaowant to order th e hes t of dlBordeanr( win* here area fe w of them :Chgteau Ldte, Ch&au Mmgaux,i. C?&bau ChAteau Haut Brion, Chgteau Amone, andCBhtwu Yqaem.Thebetter e h s of Borderam wine is hidden sway in a cask forthrea or more yw m hfm it is bottled. After that, th e longer it\ is intheW e , hekt* evergonewill tellyou itis.1 Bordeauxwines am th e ch~~tewu"ottled either in the cellarsof them&te where thewhm ismade, or UatBordeaux"by the Bor-d e w m e d m t s , orin my part af the world by the dealers whoimport their wines in cash and bottle it themselves.


10/49

ty in, or rnannge to visita K p d bl ag th a&tmr& worts akmg the lea* Rfaieru. Omms hasb a fa&on&h -tion E 30 Emope'a d 6 h W mple, .Tbcity b 88 &ilwm a d ?P'Iwu&mt of Niw. The origins of ?mueago )Jack to the @reemnncl the Pagl$nl$,butm WI hta aa I T@ no m e w d d hwe been ableb p d &that i t would s day Be.tBe faslaiwnubh gatbring-plrtw ith- 6 t year theBritish novelist W i a s Smoll&krrisitsa .? I

d e ~ f i b dt asHaHttle fishingtown agr~eab1ptultte&:IZ- .Ion th beach of the mai* The -1 Of Cam& wa


11/49

t-- . , , y , "T - . - -r - - - - I r 'r.. . . :...r - , . - - - ?. w-1-=4qcontab a thettter, gaming rmms, mom, and reshrurant.whnt LOTd Brougham did for their city. Thiy .ere&+ a statue Symphony mncerts were dwap a regdm prt of the casino%t o b i s r n e m o r y i n t h e ~ a ~ u ~ .,.


12/49

LouisXIV, the i l l eg i t imk 8rm 6f LmisXIV,m ru.son ofOl ivrCromwd. In my m e , Itismat& w a ban at dl,bn t . dk mael* the smallex i d ~ n d ,&.E Q R ~ X ,enmomhtw-convent an this island was hm&d in 4 0 by Saint/ Bonomm%and legend has it k h tone of hiew l yn m bwaslSaint' / Patri& the m e aintPatrickwha later drove themakes out ofJ1 hebid

On thesmthmud of St.Haomt b an old tmth,built in I W ,whi& WM oncefertihd toprotect the peoplewho liead there from\pi""An t i k Not F4rAwuy&mtt half way behemCannas and Nice isthe amallw resort.ciQ of A&ma The prewar p~pdatianof Cmnea9y aw -mdmicTentawas ahu%SQ7B04while that ofAntibeswas a h t 4,000.The tom w g formerlyf d d ,But all t h e rampartsexcept oldFORT d have hen dmoli&ed.h t b ies between two little bays an EbeWf of Ni* end on

tbLe west side of Can 'Amram , a twwniIe-kmgp i e 1% re-sort a were always Mmgiderd 3- q & v e than thorn of

1,P d n g fwhg& cityq5(of N&e)*..Themmmunitsfwadlmidad&mt W B.C.Aahhharbor is.rs-prot.ectdby amaleW yard3 I oq , Theegapslk e ~ q dgr the Awmw Auimw- Oa $he Btami;araNcmwBmm i sLaQAWUPB,848-fmbMU wa22 an rtneienbchaps1andE g b f i m WE& i~ frunew-foritsview,I . Hot h r &am @nnes, rt mile inlaird in t h e o p p i #fmm A n k h , LFmbws. TErisCorn1af &bad9mwas LS th$m1- &.r~l@h~idf m3 iu Roman day& Although h b s andBaz* wasairsmid& fthe old &man amnd andr e d u d . B boI ruins, them ern a t i l l some edencwrrfthanpient camp b o n g&em are.mast4qp tWs ,an-mpIni~.ter,aidan qmhd .* mxre~ t f F q u a irn %.&w~uai, b h t ofWapOl~an?~arrival an &am from Egypt in i799 and Ida paintd departurn

QX Blba in 1814.Orangegrovwp w ea r Cannas in sigh r r f maw-ca@ p d ,I and there am many acres of olive hem. Th?principal pmduct .

kof t l ~ e hawaver, h flowers forthe produetion09 pwhm~rintlne 8ihaddpdme frwbdm of Gmm,,mm i h C~MW

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13/49

Where Perfume Is Big Business&stf the 20,000population of G r a m used to be working inthe perfume distilleries or cariug for the 62,000acres of violets,jonquih, m s , mignonette, jasmine, tuberoses, and camt ion .The aid section of Grasse is a tangle of windug steep streets pmc-tically unchanged from th e 18th century,but modern G r a m hasits casino mi@ gillling moms, theater, a d estaurant. Tlw maincenter is the P ~ ~ M E W A D EC o m a Gtiwse is .$he birthpIaee of Jeau Hoilo~-&r a g o w d , 18th ten-t u y painter, and in the Born - I?RAQOXAEDmuseum c a dstaining some of his original w o r k .XFi&rhs don't agree on the migins of Grasse. Some sny ittvw f o qde d by ansms the 1st cehtury B.C., and others claimit was mEtled by a colony of Swrdinim Jews hi the 6th century.In any case, it rose to commercial inlportance early, was ~ackedby the Sar~cmsjn the 9th centuiy,and became an independenteomuue in kbeBth century,AIthongh G r a m is some miles inlnnd, you get a good rictw oftlm sea' from the Promwade du Cours. The hospital in fitfieB o r n - V I ~ B has three early works by RnbenaUGO Thebusiest street in town is the Bou~m.umnu JEU- DE- Bmwhich

11- ,: . I - . I . . 14 I- - . ,If - , , , ..q$qp: ?~T-.J - -.,. - . - t , - .. . . Ir n,begins at the m i n o and leads north to the PLACB FOUZL.E u I Faux is a mat term for a spring,and w a b used b the perfumedi9tilleriase o m -fromthe "fomnhem. Thscity'sdrintEingwabr,comes for a long distance klmngh e mnduit from a stream mlbdth e FoukmThe flower fields prod- raxlm w l h a r s h of 8,WJPOO p m d s1 of rose~,ad 4&O,W p d s orme I Visitom are,permitted in same of the perfamerim, and if p a o& in on omyou'll find ou t ikhkwalmodtsix tons of rose5 tu make ona pint of1 sweat-smelling essence. Two pun& af orange Irlwow Twillqneeze outmly onemnee of essence., Qrame has mother epeeialQ-&wm w d fsnih cqsb11ird inS W *

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14/49

CARCASSONNE

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15/49

,"I ::pY I - ', ,'i 1-. ' - -I . ' - . -r . .'. ' - -. .goats or w m b g clothes before thedmrs of hovels set in - passes Carcamme and givea transportation tu its wine ~roduce,the rack batt2ei1mbgf old medievalhwas. The -bs'of ~e u ~ gnd lmther dres-, ~ i a n n fcturedfmools,mrh,bar-old town are narrow and desolate, acontrastto thw of the V w -= . rnk, and pm r v e d fr~lts.Tbt!Cmal duMidi connects at Tou-

&m or bva r T m hich grew up later andb h a& o r n ~ .. 10 with tb e LatcmI Cma1 of the Garonne, giv i ly waterwaymodem bn j l hg s in ih Mth century hnes and streats. w- from BordeauxntotheMediterranean.T h e And%Eoer flows between these two very diff$~enttowns That famousFrench deli-, p&t4 de f& gms, tastily prep~redthatm ab I@ -=me. The vil la Bass stretches d q he p s e G v , is plentiful in these parts, as are game pies of otherlow-I* lbftbank. On the opp&ta bank risap tbe solitary hill h water-fo~l. 1Juh and gese like this section of the Aude.b-g with th e tuwem of th e Cit& A&r-red by VioUeble m~emain business of Gaxcuss~es theEm DEIGE~OBC~EGDUO,.he at4 is regarded as m e sf the ar&tmM mameh of -DE*V which from the n j l r oad station, past theF m m Fam!i* i~ a m e topping pla# far d m l o & @ artistfl, chmh of N ~ - D A x E - ~ - C - to the PLACEARNOT,hetand to& . heart of the city's lifee.

- The real, of-the LowerTown was a popular npriaing Near the in-ion of th e Rne de Clhenceau with the Rue~ k ach rule mW. All the awn around the CiUwag _# du Quatre-8eptembrak the 15th century church of ST. VINCENTbwPed p n n d and bailding w& $arbiddmon.that tside bf . ~ t hn odngoxlnl tower where you can climb 249 steps md havethe vh rSevm later settlms were allowed tomage aM c U iew of the Cit&and th e Aude Valley. There is aa &unity on tha low pund . o n th e left bank. museum on he B~UIZW~BDU M U B ~t9 long suit is paint.ings.Noddy i3 , Cmmcinnedlh a reputation for an old o t b ,You&odd plm to visit the Cit4'early fn themorning,when theh dW q ~ b k hk&I& &h& 'Thecity is an i m p k t *ne stained g lw windows catch th e h t ight. It is psipossible that themarket and t i e vineymds, h o s t solidfor 80mila t~ &e city of '$, hotel 0n.m oprated there is again available for meals or an over-B&ere, are &@& soitwe of p-@, The*-m~ -1 I night stop. Them hws never been any restriction on cameras atm


16/49

the so ~ 0 1 1% have a ohance ta &M E exampleaof-the develop-m t f-WScation fmm th e 6th ta the 14th eeRtmy.f i e dwble bdt Qlf walls is defended by 59 mund a d quareta-a%f azlhf %ah thetow- 0~ @ ktN m x mGATE.U ~ B f ldghb n amor land prmssiomw of rqpltymarched frm the Ville Xba a c m he e4gh6 r e afthe 18th century bridge a d though the Nabaniw Gab, ThePmm o*Aum,openingw & w d an the side of the river, ia avail-able lf you'rewalking onl$ Tha N m b mebdmiB v & i d aThe inner wall, l,200yards long*and t b e ou tq wall, 1$tQ3are8-M hip am emdly about8y dwl&- Thisspacebe-twen wm c d l d &$s and wasd by ther knights for outdm$ports SQ mataq.b hg mth part of th.&d jSt the former udmdml of&r-N--Mt fromm ddetenb~~tm 14thrcrm the 11thtac m t u x i ~ ~ , w i n afkm lWw 'Boft~mp n eave, youhen rest&& o u l d d ~ ~ ~ a n ~ t i ~ ~ ~ ~ d e t b ~ m & w i & t h ~ w a l kPt WAS built &out 1IN. Tslh am d ook at it md d d e r hef & h t 2k waswed asa b a o h h b y the %ch. hmyd19%. Ii


17/49

Lmmm rm&d fmm a QtwlLi~ wed b l hmrib%hm i ~ ~ t & V l $ i ~ .h m t ! a e B ~ m w s m ~ t ~ h ~ + b maskride theEivez d w 1&e Porn& * h & h n d s ~ a $ .W l w i B e m n k r h r i w hit t&qrhfbd the id&-hnt9 dl did up in a fopt wi&h s tad where tlw ixthal~alRT.E ~k now1amhd.

24 Y-


18/49

Bnt if*dU getdf P ymur ahairmil meander&k the nswbw,F poprtion tu.&e wall qme,and la&h use af Idike , ,omamtd .. . . winding 3 pm 'kp,,ifibis & d y & u e , , d pour French,cawing. Rmmeqw isewer[W&he 12th em-). In this I ifitiswur qpy will afford pu- m d v e n k e &st& mhes tire round, inatead bf pointed. R w w church-a m mom 'mrnpakklyandmrer@laMyhiit than Gobhie. Rw h - H amofThuf Pamldnmw i h l ~ ~ P ~ ~ ~ ~ W e ~ 1 . J C o m ~ ~ g e , b u t > Forad& p b k y , formampba,is th e whole&ow in tBLietown-moreEke .theI&ttm,sbm.it wm c h a r a c t ~ r ~ cf th eW e c eto fi tii,&mm@mparat idy nn~ldmndwla of th eG r e b m i d Rom- Better vigit the J& a&w~nt the LY&$~AP-&UE&~~nmlvthsPUOEmmmf in L lmo p;pmhap theypoint ou&lhJIMtb&e d & g ~in me of the numy&umk ~ m d- irbouh AD ~ ~ ~ , y me clrmhmW Tim *as well- W r w e pmtsw m olz in boge'$., W t y ~ p fa a side-walkaafeinthPuw d m ,t3P:*.w*P,hePz;wmnxu l%mm~tlp:, h e ,ippirag r K&tyo u may& &0 idea thkt you would l i b bom a i n there former.T h i ~ould ILEb~an unnht3lrd thought, fol:Ernoges isliwble.CWy Hi-PQD@e; q u d y Want from Pa&, ,Bordeaux q ~ r l&m%ks;in a dim& cml and f x d ; among peapb with a g o dFmaeh await and s:quaint ;s&b dl their own-hem is a Sca0ut.Of-thre-pp&pp h*a .b fttir-mundirign a w .

- -$ ~ W B F h~fshr@- i~h&q ~t b+ @- DINB & J T ~ B ; war i t WU guwddJb 6 mdSoasrfm tbg b $ o duable rtre fhe trwle semb in the ram of p m & h~ ~ n n h e t m ~ ~ a n dlb art,m a d h g . If yrm dm%h&?eaaylu&tbr~+p*a htdmdathwrplmaLkogsb p x * d ~ f t e t m mal eamnd. A&istic d~~in w&ta paint m ,a Mae-pdnhd b&pmd (mu1626 dm&mongh, but i&k is the gemail meaning of %hmmwmLgThe most famm ef~amelm(h2tw)f L i m b ived aa10% agg asthe 16them-. Zleonttrd h o w i n andhis&send-.mta were famow mfhmea; another family, t b FBnica~fdis,lso won mwxr $or themelves4 for =ages ttt k b & You c a n m ~ p 1 & ; S t h @ M d ~ mwmKaI


19/49

the neme h g g i n But the pwple of k o g m lsre prosperous enough tio import~e y o n b ~ mim$ jo u might l i b t o wine h m newby regions lib Bordeaux, if n e c e s q . As akwmwh&it &earnhmmhti'onto our ;wordfora@,em. Itsaemsk is,,a cmmd5q bat if's w4pvand, like dd in mat& of fa&, there used to Ese 88 diddleries of h e liqueurs infjmm%ws* B n d b e f a r e ; ~ 0 ~ 1 ~ y ~ b e s u ~ e t o ~ t t h e B m m t itbs @on eronnd ~~ lacs ho rn .aslden.l w b . e v w iutck is n Malinmud. This is the stmtqptIt9sjammed wi th butdm shop whioh havebeen theresinw the 10th G*Lh$wih The word nieant, dg kd y , a long b p h d ' edo&-d t~ a d b w apt+ alley in L%m-m$+ a yw i t ; 9 wam W &@her* artWE&FreqcbemswUwf-ling mithgold, spdr,'is.+nold @ty in Limo- T h w d sa storya M * . M y lhbamam,expert jewelem: they hatomporta t ~ ~ T W t & w i n h r i r s a t ~ q u e a t o f ~ * .,%be&J@ whenmydBmukd #e h e p e f o r d & dmen. b d wns like Limogea vere d y theh 'JChe

P ~ W ~ S ,he bed mitunel wo* the best gold:elk-g w m w h W away to- Thmwe~e8 : f fns t l . ~srd ,perhap~ppo in 'khg , iaEbst ,~oges i s~awbie Co'une. The p u n d undemmth is pnih , and thhog mil prg-plidw ebh-day for P mthm thm goddfo r > g r a m


20/49

Lmx, with W. papntatimof wer sr klf minion,i th e smmd ciIQIt n a B foundedby the h u ben when CL- tmk

-. - I Y - , . Ith e 8s6ne;md fmm which gr m may be able to lac Mont B h o ,


21/49

Aside froPnking>thebdag silk mndasture center in theworld, L p i~ &a hdqut@em fgr ;me of the large& tbgRkinob i n s in f imm. Igm mw* bob, j~werlry,lrmdliqueum h\addition,themmy dyeworlq foundrie,glam-9~0&,pqtteriw, bsmries, breweries, &mid p b , nd priding e ~ -tabl idm~blb. rigi ah the jumtian ofthe IZz~brnnd the &&mcsnnmt Pa&, .Mamdh?ivmb, both mfg;ab e, a d n theWw%pmd railways which' md Bordtm~~;ith Swiberland lsxtdItaly, it b d h s or mmghtums -7 of tlm p d u t w wingbebraem . .

T h e cenikral :*ion, lying on the point gf land b t w w &erim- 00 the b . ~ mistrict Qn the ban$ of hBh&mje h - m @ indudrial ~~ of LAC Th8~ ~ t w ~ d ~ ~ h ~ t h e w e s t ~ a f k ~ s ~ o ntheh p s l o p &$FtmmhilLTbe oldez d o n s nude up of m m w , &rocked shets whichwind up. fhg hill MWBB~wdd buildin$s. On thb s l o pL & ~ ~ & . J D ~ , I ~ o o w c ~ ~ ~ & ~ ~ c ~ ~I ? & B ~ u ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ L ~ L ~ ] ~ ~ ~ o F N - D A x Eh i s i ~ s a :em building,h i k b d t on thksik of the Fmma B&w whichwars e m t . 4 layTrajm. &eidernit i abwm which i s680feet1bn

100 milm awa , if the mtbw ier right (3n &a other side ofl ~on rr i~ntge d u r ~ hof ~ r .~m ~ t ,o4 is r m a d mstructure, but it isbuilt overe cryptmputed to have been th e sceneof the mam~~ref l B , O Chxistians in HE2& D., by order of Sep-thnitlpl kSeTeFWLOW down en theoppmitebank of theW n e% khe 6thcenturychurch of thsAEWXahe. Beneath th e sacristy and extend-isg beneath the bed ofthe river, an, tba lightlessmd ltipIem don-geanrs in which early &yni wed hw%ittheir fahi.7 % ~H & ~ LV n m is considered one of th e h e s t buildings afits kind in al l France. It faces the %OE m Tmm~ux. Its twocentral comb are divided by an area& The min W d e fea-turm an q-Pim &he of &nry IT. h the vestibule you

will h d pair of sculptnredgroups b tlm Coshubrothem. Onegroup repreaenta th e Rhdrie and the oder represents the Sa6ne.Industrial and Art E x h i h Are FarnousTheM& HIBZOHQTW~XSS 2 b m e ie rally wmdhbg. Eveqtype and End of fabric or woven material from the &st knownstuff is displayed t h q together with the method, whether by

'handcar bym d i n 6 , of weaving wed hhbrieati011. T ~ Bkt


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stmb *tll snoient & g p b clokh wd famw rsn down tamethe mmt,uriea fo &ow the wwli-e& and tlm l a k metit& ofw e a - h g &ms iah t h e h h upwtrk are &play4 too.Bo w e ariotu kinds of mq&. In Flhort, marlg anything thateanb.mven isshowntoyo n them ThedPw&m p i m he EW-d f l m o f t h e P ~ m ~ r n ~ ~ ~ B ~ ~ ~ ~ j m t h e f l ~ ~ ~ ~LA~~ ha Palhis i~ impwbig building on w h wsteps heaidant Carnot wm aswxhated in 1894,daring &B L p ad i b i t i o a%p&te t;BeH8tal deTi is theP umk,hr bnild-$ng which built in the 17th and 18thmnturies as, t fe Bene-dinkineeon=& ofB.Pi- T hm w cmtsinsSor mntaind, j T 1 e d y ins mB&on of pain* and ~btws ,nd intamstingmciat 51hb lastatepry youd l d ntiquecoinsand

d b , &O&&m Feb&eew Wd thg c o n d o n made by the h p e m r audi1~19in 48 A. D.,admitting b a a itbns of Gad ta w~llabridri&k Alw in the antiquem W a m m a d g h o* pobry, a dgoWh9IUUMIS, w o r t h n g he pabtinp yoaw i l l h d mmpZss of &heeawk of two lopal& who4- large m ~ ~ t i o l l s 1:t h d m ,

~ P m ~ l g ~ a * n ' 0 9 i s a i t u a ~ o n t h e ~ r i . ~ ~ r *a


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p h i p a l entrancaistbronghrh e iFongda Thh beau- Itifd park g o n ~ ~ ~ l o g i o a lbotmicd.gwdms aa well nap l m t wa lhmong the- At the northeast end of the laka~ ~ a a c ~ w ~ - ~ ~ y ~ ~ ~ a i n e d, I~ G m d ~ w ~ b u i I t i n t h e l ~ s m t b ~ m t ~ ~It hrms m w ~ ~ l y and ps re- Ibeen 00mpWy ~ m r & dv ~ l v i n g ~ ~ d b j r ~ ~ , ~ b e m b u d l t i n .his-&isa& m d y f ~ r producthxy~Movie t h tms m y epm&foundall overtomI b ~ r b i n ~ y o n , t h e 8 ~ ~ v ~ o n e o f t h e~ a s t b i l Z i a r d ~ i n F r s n c a d t h e m d t o h a s e a s r r nof p w ~ g o o d h o m ~ J t h s ~ ~utHgonpmfer golf, trg the ~ y mQM Club a t&fmmam . / '


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- MARSEILLE~ % a u m ~ ~ P n s n v h a s r d o f k ~ ~ ~ ~ o-Aumsywefut spark b w u a f e itbmeQftkW hewn p k of musicin theworld,Bm won't baas:hb@ mound B b h x d l a lag tom d d m d haw its mimegot tied onto the Fm& national anthemand h c k , pen &@ughthe ssng was 3Vri-h th city of swbourg,4M) mila away, &qpt at3me,h.& f 63ngb-, mrakhd @a*a d overnight i n A p i l 1 ~ $ 2 m d ~ ~ i s k h e B a M ~ ong& b Eebfne b n y . =:! Bnt th M d U . i & hot-headedolib*-lo* pEmpl&?of%nnaeillbstrrted &gkg L rible'a wmds md tnasid, snd whentrwp &m tb &@h dM or P&ht during klm F r q c h ltwm1tl-tian h y u t with a& ~ mdWm&y&ak mthu~asai it has Beenh m wer after ass LaMamigaisa mt k = P ~ B O f tfie ESWJl&De wG&h M4%Mmwd l ~not d y m of worI$'s mad~~~ battlers forhdividud freedm bnt th e grated commmial port on he ; Md-itmmmm IlILd tedQity of Frat?&

9DOXI% .rubbad the wrong -wayif tb M a m i h i i s s e a t9 be n b&a andw,h & & m , rsadAfriaaa h o p s p d &rough


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mom 'hot-heraddand ,-~r &MI other.Bhwhmm .They we n. I' A* &a a&& m b r i e m mlarMm grat WM s& np &ry 3% pmd.of th& -city, a d ile* heen ~ p p i n gQr it in M d b S h ! fm B.G. A ~ ~ ~ h ~ b i s b s r g l i l f e ~ b ~ w

h f O F 8 W ~ & Q WXd~& p0pd8kbll of dm& a I t i m a both poxit&%?3 t!m&. Mi& Ohm&% &d a h d t i o n d ~ ' ~ o ~ ~ . t a m k t o w h e m t h e c i i i y O hb8'kW,WW QF-B h I@Wrd th G ~ Q&-wss sGmk d p o & hd% rid Of ~ w t h a & en the tndem* bmW its%QO% birthday dear b i d h I@% A lo t d h p m t m t m t h e r s b e m m e d &B 0-mof tihe M e d i m e w ~ &I. mame, 3bmdb, m u m from t b i n ~ y ~ a ~ ' l l ~ ~ ~ d ~ e~ o ~ t ~ $ ~ ~oldGxdz .Warnb m J d kht~citq amand formv- T tm l q and the hllge ?ifmmtdrn airbwe.-1 hundrd yem sud Dl- wnquerd o m by Julius Ckmr Marseille began to rn& its mark in m a mmmw a*in 49 B;. C, AZtmth3bmn Empire w d . on the a&


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ways b@&k,n En@&Ghmd, a distamca of 875 milea. on^ af t h ~Ckmam' mdwmus painti3 for convoysto th e Italian .~ n ~ m a t a t m m a p a n d y w ~ ~ h ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ h ~k~ & ~ ~ m ~ a r o m t d S ~ m d ~ p t b e A U ~ a ~ The wid part of was a l w a ~ stb dB&!&Wow Tunnel wasbidt b a g h hem& mom- of.L;'ibt .of town w M hmup ah- the harbor. POPm&& of ymnst o ~ ~ ~ d m s w i t b a s a a r a l l i ~ ~ ~ d t h e B m , tbm narrow, twiding &&s md dingy build- wem the hide-h m d is47 fmk h i g h d 7 g fmt wide and t b w a t m m d q away fmcrhdds, and @=were aha& neww a h t.orout them~ i t b ~ a ~ d e a p & ? i d 4 9 f w w i d & orit. T&ds whow a d e d a r dtbm,homr,mmr r m Ws t ld lbm&c*$sod&dm& I t b a k h n l m ~ m ~ h i l d t h e &at for e v q ouklm~ Old Tom b d honaat'6shrmen.tmd. Non&dq theadxhalwayahaabeenmttago sashayingm m d' 'in that~~~ lq y d wt nighk.the dky of Arla . Bb f d mamd in on Mrmeille man7 f n J m l q U w ~ ~ p 3 ~ e f t gq & a bked out bad ytdld fm eveqon~ himself.F m m t h e ~ r m a ~ - d e ~ ~ w i t h ~ e ~ ~ ~that the Fma& m ~ o w d to H d n g here to &ow Thqmmdd~ ~ ~ & B o ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ a a e ~ l w ~ ~ ~ * -p &,OM people md marched abut half of them 80mila awayn M W h r n ~ & a m . b a oncenht ioa camp. T b q smwM dl homqp h g d~ w ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ E 3 t ~ ~ l d w ~ ~ ~dl&le&&wea drnehd,&mW ostsiflgof dpmite c h a ~ pb ~ a n d b ~ e r s E g & ~ t h ~ ~ ~trmammge On F&mq 1 hey waekd it. ~ E S ,&p,r;hmh,mddayTCiO paanger h e m and wqgo ships from all pa& of th e ancient l m t h ~ r bere b9astd inh rubble.world *ouM gut in a tMamiile. IOn theatmtayou would runktu Berlin eqdahed it this w e .:&Wehad ta dear ths dt d an.p a@ of every raw, and mhd i e . T b hdmr doesxr'b ug* stainend build s* ~ cwheret oace hung r d e halo

of ap& romanticism" Whatsm See the dynamiting wpm- Can&Bra h a e @da of theMamill* It is to their eity whatpMed, it theQ e m a a spas f m h r h r d& and hocked


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F i f t h A ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ i s t o N 0 w P o r k a n d l ~ C h a m p Ioat +'lotof gochi hiding p h for the mdemmat Parb ~ a p w p r o d d @ f ~ % a i n d m @ t h ~ t & $ l I M lAfter wattaria af ddaqctim by invader~,with the b d i w o r k you, uIfPa& had nCmebiBpe,t k m twould be a UtEleMLu f t h e N a & s a s a . ~ , i t i s n o ~ ? . a R a a d e r r ~ ~ o m i ~ T h e hame a f t h e boulevard m nm 'hman old Q m k word memn- -th e old& &tiers of W- Burope, Itas few clawid orm d e v dm a i m sfmg hportmee~The.hmtls M ~ d I ~ i s% ing L%emp?' It muma $nbZmkhg thoronghfam used k~hap& Islmsdhi&iton the headwhen Herdd,'lThm are lmo mmu-m e n t B h ~ w h ~ * ~ t : & a ~ & a a * . ~ t ~ stma ~hso~dwd ~ & t h eibl* n ~ ~ ~ BE-Pmmx, jud a& ehs lhnmmm ba b h t m P~th3e.d t o m f the old &ur& muah, *king bthie am tu g . Omof the lar@ohurcbes W d u r h g he W ah the Bmuim-BparkinaCathd~dofb h - h h m v r m Fmqhadyd h iklaVafw forshah. The cathedralis an a terrace m-thwe&of p u 1% f r h o ride up and hdf-h.aac to ride down. Thme OldT m . Itm a built b e h e m 1859 and I M . The min me- was r inhallmtingplace in thenorth tower a h b notlika any ather bri* ~t i i m b d S ~ f e e t l m g w i & s ~ v e r r d ~ , m ~ fbmt~hkh j gh I * This ~ ~ Bridg~ b o yonmm ~saw, If it;w shill 51operation you% see pmmgem and vahicleeW d e you might stillhia plaque comm~m~rating British iilled in World War E. &a borne the ha&ar mhm O ~ Y .hwest tbw . ~. Tft~rnaiais&mofbwaisat&-&.-wb \ onaplistommspms2ad by Isng cables wan r poww-cmrier roll-Itb870feetfromt h ~C " eroIS%She 0 ~ -R9ihW6-a~& B@m&me i n g a x r r r t m c k m m t h a n . ~ f e e f a l 3 0 ~ ~ p u ., shorn to &om

~nhna& ga~ * v i ew~tbe,-rmis fromt6a P-- Ifyo~x'rsintmeshd in old aoins,you'll want ts:wandwintotheJ:~ ~ 1 ~ n n a ~ 1 o n 6 b s 4 ~ ~ ~ l ~ i s n n o t i r r


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P m m U i x F o m &em pu~.looEr~ r t hwe&wmw th e Old~ ~ m ~ w I$ ~ l ~ ~ QMMJ.bfom the Ckmarrem q crme o f t heworld'skt col-b t oupm~~Mth igher ~ '':A I~ldoara of mBieatwiaarsshem, mdit maybe ntuuehed. There~ i e w ~ ~ c d ~ n ~ ~ ~ 1 1 c v ~ ~ t J m .l w m i l N ~ I h m;, ' isa good repqwmtatimof rndm sculptnrs ant^ old WI m d m nldmwzk M Mar-p t g p r r i ~ # I p d s ~ ~ m d ~' h church of N m m - D ~ m 8~maT b snrch rrnd an ~e a hlo g um d the Mmk rn Bwm-&re in th ea d % ~ c m m a 6 % f @ 3 i m W ~ e ~ a h m t E i e & ~ . R+a IBmwm. Bight-next dmr is the Muamm OF H a m u Hmcmtiequmtmsf*aiw. ' f h m r q m a ~ i t w ~ & e s i b o P a I ~ > B T W ~ B ~oacan n- m-d -0rZg; $4nd g e u w&mat &npd d c d h 5!!bPEW& ofi.mch wu bnilti after Mi&m I&mdie s p d aron ei&wd hof the Oawb8m and X t : t a ~ I M f e e t ~ & h : w W a b e ~ f i h d e b& from the ancient harbor, Southof th e 'thnebi&~e,~~ ~ u kt- Thep a leading fro- &g dmha cable M w a p 'onthRa lBaa.,&.F d Z ,P and adjoining&re&, i s lum tw o hugwcEm3 Doh%lmthm t o wlmt the the W s h q p b g diahick At m a h e Mamil la had tr& lam em 140tQ &a,.tamw and \74wxa fmgl thw la the for th$i d o n hkh d d you h&d to pwk on the odd-numbed ~ e y m ~ i t k d y ~ u e h ~ t o ~ i t u p h ideof th@&mtaodddapofthemonth d c m bmn-num-if there iemyh d f wind b l s h g , I k d G d e m m d s J l s . of tom lim on the sou&hal&rn d o p of B&dw t h e . G t t , th e two m& famaw sbmh the m h t d f r o m t h e m W . Thishadry ChwBzInmar ( i t a ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ o f b lt the

theB h evaq*mammeillais jrihamtion i6 % C mB&? kmm ~ n eide of the @ W B ~ P . S andBarn it &md b thrhmbtd wmws m e & , o hinthe wintax md ~ & R m w o n t h e o & e r )a n d t & ~ c ~ ~ B o mw it will MOW d t b ~w, l f izr~am w i . t h ~ TheChmiche &ad .f011~#8he &orasolrthfromthe Old Harbor. stappmg. Smmtimmit b impomibl~tastandup itsfur& It islidwith finehobis and h o r n OB th e Cornih m t , n 4Y
mailto:ad%~cmma6%f@3imW~e~ahmtEie&~mailto:ad%~cmma6%f@3imW~e~ahmtEie&~


29/49


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fediag.- M O Y H C O & F U Q ~ & ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ : .m ~ 8 ~ 1 ? 0 8 i ~ ~dependkt phoipd$y* '%en .witem the Bwah mdnt ion &-p m s d t l i e Ai@iqgBin* it~ ' ~ M I X !i0h n m . f i e prjn-&p&y was p b d wider*B m i a n 63 the -OM d 'Siafl-In:3318by%heWeuQ&fV%ma. 31

In 1011 a eofiditukimd gwmnmmt ww &bli&d pmvidmgfm a H a t i a d @milslw:tdby a unkml m d a nh. It was picture of gaily tinted bnUdings& in p e a garden@. Gleaming
mailto:garden@mailto:garden@mailto:garden@


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*d &at the l ~ r i a ~ t~8ih d e aw i l yachts rode l a d y at anchorin:tb ePomOFHmmm. Big tourist&t~m4 for whoo wait Oahiae the h&or p ~ ~ p r sState and& Xat&md C o d , Th b w a of bhwa W%T&b d . ' m a d d t the srigbts&me.o n . t h s M ~ , b o t M o ~ w h d ~ ~ ~ m ~ m d ~ d bMonh a r b was alwap batifalpclaan and qoiief. You willown.pw- s t u m p robably find it t& way3even now. Onw, , ihetreeta m m h tAt m e h e ypu wuld have enjoyed &arming bathing 8,nine o F e h k Miw the mow& entered port& of the corn-)(a mouniainaue c om e and tsnnis comtd. ~ o a bintationthmhmand &no, ,-tho-was still until the flurry ofry still getL ta enjoyk Tbm4 tu he plap a d W e b nightly,ad, tpaffio at the end of the perfolmmfim.y etlthough of the h kW Bhm h p p r e d ,p u y t i l l The CAWO,about wh* you.bsve h a d w, much and seen so1

I hrrblebtafEeinam~&a$maftheplmadUop. YOU . aften in the relo*, stands on a p m j d rock h i n g the towa.u and l a b ~ay &o be hhmtad in the marine m m m , ~ m ~ It was-built from a@lans ofarkdB X ~ ~ B P ,amow ~mchr t l t oq ~ b by lpin* ~ fwd -pher, ah i tac t , in 1a6,and the m a d ront was remodsued in 1903Prhm slh& md again in 1910. As you paag throughthe vestibule you reachAa you enter Monh Cmh, your eye wiymnge uvw t h ~ theAhownwith ib large q d a-pm Jundt.hih 1 Then,tern- &immerhg in ths enm, th e p a t i d hdds dotting the waking&mightthrough,is t;he theater, wh&dopw ofM o mh- ouwillhipain& .th e railway ebb ing th e hill h~LA h g ~ Chkk,];is and m y t h ~y G ~ ~ ~ v c Y , d k p m l&8.To th e Iaft of fhg thmtm e e w e amid th e m o q@h of the B h r m m A m Eninbow~~ r lineark in this plush and*golds&hg . the gamingcb&g Far e beautiful view, go ta the hrrace an th e seaward side 05Of th e in the4 country ofMmm,Monte&lo tb a tbina, b e he con& pavi%t.ionandthe marble b m b f the~ t h e ~ i t ~ s ~ w i b l ea s d w a ~ ~ ~ a f t h m a ; l L corn&& Mastmet a n d ' E ~ rBerlim

52

NICE


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I

I

' r e a d i n g ~ ; ~ m 1 0 6 o ~ f r a n e s ~ ~ e c m & r o o m ; m d b e - ' I .'\ tween M) to 40 fmnm far *e theatm. Then thaw was a obarge\, of o m h c or&&gyoar sag. -, Yo(l sinhi a 8 p""g,Qtlb (marked "9.0.")assb oi bhe I .,Gsino, q@ta tb post Q oe. It is aa m uilding, facing gsr- ..dens of ramarkable beauty witb many palm b m n full view.Theht Festa sports grouadsof the &font%arlo ColmtryC%b h _., c l a y andit haa !XI te-s courts,two sqnash-mckatmurk,6m h g brrfhs,resbtmntmde c l n h h m; ht one tima&an- a s s bing ct the ~ u tf you plan tovisit Mcnh Cash for gama of chams now, you m y e &sap,pointad. P J e v e r t h ~t m ib interestingtoma the p h a sad' gain ~ ~ ~ n d l m o a l e d g e f themmugdingstbem Thepeople may havemmp storiesto tallp

For mmy pean p the nh& iddi and purposs of Bhm hasbeemthemwmmt'o"iv ~ i s n i ~ & & u r h t %d wsatklqplaybop .Thewhole&up wasmado for it;.M&y hot&, msbumnt9, b e , -pigmn-&&ng nmmge&ths, d ra w h oon the pies. The principal d u - ineludd perfume,widqhib,ail&map,a o n f d m , &mw hah,w W h i ipiamdm and b h . be diamhl;# @pnsidm& favorable for&& mplajnh, put,dhm,md . c a t a d , Operas, ball-,fencing?dying;born, bbycle,d r h g ; -ng, b e -ia4 ~ 8 3 %aviIahhbh m m d d , Md %the 18.dap-pcdingLent8uh w,~VOM kW~f ~~OWB%%O&-&W*lll&dwing,kwoth,ahoygirbhornP qand p l a t y of noLaA PAST GUMWEIt isdoubtful 8 youwilf flnd- 4 i ~ui* so gay t i h a days, nbrhas it alwsyak nm. Foap4ed leb& 9,000peam ago by G d mhm i MhdlIcw, i$ i t m e 8 busy b d h g station; By he I*

W q bmaritime &m&h of Xica had d d sii3idmt pro-


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portion3togive the Barb* P h h p s ~n their pmeld e p& t i s n a o n a l l W ~ ~ i n p ; .h e l & h m h t y m a~ h ~ ~ f o P&2em3a4d ~f a d m raged, md'tihefortified city was rttcadmdand p&gd byI F F d ImdB&m&a,h l ~ t h e p s r t w & ~ o p n t a d l n n t i ~earlyohundred yem 6he b&e& ~ &add and demol-ished ehle r m p d In1W,8tb'%atyf UWht rehrmedcity b the h t ad # a ' y a d Wew Town was blrilh fim1744 t~ IT& t?w - B b d i a ~ i d ' 5 p Wwtm in -Q&Fromthen~n,itwwWWkand fm t h i z em r a lk,tI X m k b g T K i t h ~ ~ ~ f t e r ~ ~ g i n ~IP 1940N i c a ~ a h twhr away aa pwIs aodd get fromt h a N & s 5 b d r n * h M # . B e * M d h & Q ,only to h d hat Itdy h d d m d war, md under th e teamsofthe armidiic~~?mcity hand i h l f in the IMian zone ofampam& By I f , m4% m m v i d mlm of it& lo& @i&y,but in lgp%, aftertbA IM (~xupationof BTBfCh A f r k , thewarwas on# more brought c l ~ sw Tbeh a m mphosi%edtbmili-t a q status oftb city andgreatly&rmghmdibd h w . Like

av iera toms, Nice bqym to w &tort e p k foodr,Ixs= @qFhbIw3 rmd fruit&WBW~~~ ,, ,-


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-

AROUND THE T mPrewar Xbb 8 populatioll of nearly IO ,OQO, mdedby Many t l m u % ad rs during the win- tomi& man.a old the h h a g pad of the lia bebeenPA-w, fhe old &h h ku r y md& me .

TWLON~ ~ f i w~ v e r y l hW, bgt the ciq has a long hiaro~asf d -4 baae and as her$e lnden of the

parttbimpoeingmodaoDO&,heb u s i e part of hwn to the -0. ~ ~ ~ l ) l l ~ ~ ~ h@at d b qengineergavsmost of the creditvc rim of hbh in-ontwhs we& md

59


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basin L c a l ld the Fmrmh,nd ths outer harbor is th e& u h bm Bomb-proof molm la70 yards long form o break-waterbetween the mrrllerportd th e ro~dstead. E m npeace-t imeyoudb t cmq a mmew in the sprmmdfnghills.Toulon was called T~tmdmby the m&nt Q r d s and T e bamtiw by the b a n s . D e g he middle ages it was aX noh p r t a n c a heeatme it wasW(remob f r a he established b d erontaa. Xtsm d ~ s n wkh is due entirely to itsnaval importmm

The Saracens d e d he city in 889 and it wm captured M c e ChaxlmV beforeHenryfv.odered f o ~ i o m rected at theend of the 16th century, The &fenma were then skreslgthenedby LouisX W nd in 1707a d i n e d attack bymAustrian a dhrdinian armyandthe English an d Dutch ftsetswas succemfdlybeatenoff. . .Dwbg the Fmch Jhvolnt.ion,Todon GIkemswhow m s@to the crown turned the port over to theEn&h flat mdw Vk-tauntHood. For%I4 a h t Hood battled to hold d ssiege by the lkvolutionsryArmy mid ha l l 7 had &owithdraw hisbet. This wag the battle in which a B-year-oldartillery officerled the capture of themajor 0- commanding the roadstead eom-61

i-

khe British retreat. The young d b r was promoted ta In spite 03 t changes that tbs Qerman occupationdAllied


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-geM&. a s amwas Napoleon B o n a p d . bumb'mphweb u& t aboutintheeity,yodl still enjoyclimbWgupintotheOld T mwithitsnarrow 18thwn tw gmuped -Tden pawid faun the m~h7adndnistf~tiobof 'Wnmupiea . . . ahub the harbor. The stm leading ta the harbor h t;bPnmM b actualNttei mntrol. igim then tho harbor bas w e d - bnsie~tt- in th e Old Town. Betwetm the &a d'Algex and theRB tm Germanu-btnest. Cow is~ & m - & n m q he remains sfu a*-Toulon'a usenslsmmUy gave employment to a Lrge per- drd built in* 11.thandmh centuries. TheAmmALMmTl=,s ther inge n t ~ ~f the city'spqmlatio~.Itwas it~ [ ~ p l i - which jbnll walkhtoifyoupwestmi theQuaid.Gronstadbwillplace apecidly popular with Buaians, Befom the wr pmbably ba off W k . Iri patoetime i$ was nmr open toausL d nosrth4an air of gaiety. he m k i w * . fare ig lm.was &Iwongedh he evenings, but there were no fashion parah &sides bYw i e - ~ j em e ,therchid buildhphtsaok for inand ns cmxivel festivities as at Nice ssnd t&nms, and fe w w b the city are the oa%-Urn,he NhPat m~mme to Twloawem forpIeasure dam H- a d &a arb A V G &ztm ira'Elw city h*d itsParisian shop ,hawever,m d idewalkd m urd

# HmmauPEr.mation pi0ture horn. TheCornah F m o s i ~ften'played in . !l'he Bwmapm m SmU- emses Jm&it&% bmdth of TOU-the thent.r ~vbsirlhsdby ths eity,m dmwa4imd open reuched log east tawest, passing theC sm o and the@wm Athestage* 'Ibulon &s bad it s ownLit& the ah^; b w n a "The museum isa h nthBouleaard de Stra~hcWgwhich contains 1 ~ 1Chi-," and hough th e a w p b w ewas lnrgdy inkeepingwith e b i t f ihipmot%&and e o l l d o t l of c a b .-nanddiscipline, the fashionablerestrur.n$, casino,art pllwim, . Intheoldk% a dailymarket&retchedfop ahalf miIe .dmg themdIi33rulywere fuU, , CO- h ~ mhe st.r+& W- d ~ do all vehicular t d ki until noon. There.homewives swme tobwgain ~ O Th i t rsd flow-63

1ma, wid fowl, mmband vegetn'b4- Yau will sltiil me sailm 'bauxiteom,takenfrom thehillsnorthofthe city- T d m hpor6s


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wauderiqgw w d b hiswetimsnabhing off a hm&& uf fresh mm,w a d , wd, hemp anddt provisions. Next to thenaval base Ma t a m ith & m g mffw&om a ae* hbtra I . operations, howem, ths city% b i i nhsEpieai are lhip build-a siege d To ~ l a , shipk manm &ew a%all :,*,hrbfng and wine growing: TodonL .tillnot& fm ruple81 Cow hfrgeUa. That e a ~ n n h l llways d p m-, w w s phtltifut in t b*Lgdrew f b k s of kr& b h m the war. If tlw Gemom havent ' .wpried& brl l out and shipped it homeLr am4BiflgDllU pmb. SBaAlpu brxl.dbe obletatagaa plewurabQeLt15tkfromt;heably sw 3bch &.pup baddies wou~~dt - Qnd d~&tad t t osved-by phtaof inbmst, Amongtheo. 87now. From*CouwW y e t t e you can reach the old mWra1 &m- . . - suhurbarab d i n g b e z hwucha n be ~ d e d y bwtisTAAURI~Lh-mby af th R m % bk1t Itwas t h e b t & o r e Sand t m e d ou t -mostof herwell knownQtmhre-swwd a g t e d ,ah$ &reng#etred by A h $ p ~ - writings, and it was th e hb'tm 02 an0 of tb wmldt f m s tade in the17thoenbry and the tomma add 4 in tbe I&b centur~.. w o m n composem, M e Chpmioade. T he ssena of ~ u n eofTheprincipIding plaw iuToulcmm'& the-Boulevard Jmph Conmd%1& wor%sw& laid in t he PiGi* cdTmloa~ 1 qd a Str~brmrgand t l ~ eQuai de C~mstadt.-ing m e masomG Q U ~visit the rac&rack af hflcmnmw>T,mil@ enst ~f InWt lng Spots in rha9 r r o d n g* city.Mthangh bmml insk lhtbns h m qmedk Tdmfm- Abwt 10mila we& of T d o n are he rsmain~uf a pl.ahi&micm m i d h d i b i e shtaom -dl part d the wsk end oP he Bwbar, settlement c a l l d Gomm PS A m hewge yau cgmethe port carries an a ahh* in nmml times. Toular ships . I to the oi l lag ofE:*~aa. There on a 1,W-fmt mIcanie m a da,ml, timbar,aalr, fip,m h k ~ ,lmonds, on-, cloth, mmddca&darmdemfas4;. A ~ a r s e r r ~ s m d -m p and A h , out d his port the a.8.used to r m i m 1-44

atone rock bo the right of bha: etge i h h m as the Gab DB -5B W& b rid@ ther d t of .Cap T ~ W B


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s=m. at fUfl f& is tlm p i l g r m &pel of NOTIIE-%~-BBXWPNok otfis irorm~raG o r p dDMrmlespwsaa lbttla anbte-g - andbeyon4 Chemcbftpd tower. F m thispointAEITB, & a +ed &tripto ~ E ~ ~ ~ ~ E - & v M E : o n a ~ d a y p u & d d - b a ~ t o ~ b ~ t e U e ~ i ~ . dlthamgbrntJser T~gJoaitmlfis s i h a b d on tbe&mst tmlm west side of astobyp h a madshad along the &to *.Ilea dB* QR the task a dT he other rklc ofthe mum bill isw m d by a e t efum sf&, neigldxtrhml of3bm&.le.m.&@webedma, m a p l qb,*m a and holb . mr m ~ n goot; The city sf H-9 a gmimd* of abutN,W,k ths oldestpaths wifrhsigh posh dl *mgh *cw& 7aa you can%@ hq~ taintaP-mmrton&fl .: . . Before &e war, it was 81-a m l a n d ~ ~ a r ~ m t l l a ~ . i n & ~ y o u ~ ~q rw nitb ~ri-km .HOV&T to F C ~ W .t8 n ' t t le P?th mtq-waysieEe [email protected] the! eeeuat end of the &em thae at Toukm, buttb town7 Th@c b t b s slight@mil*fa& you dimkte limeskm ri& to r& t b 8~mmi-Bammr is imdcimtly pmt&ed t&e mistral. 12you c a mlqp% I y h . " T ~ ~ o & = ~ s s & ~ ~ u & ~ & w ~ o ~ s hibintao d r o p i n @ tQBmh w w l y ~ e r , p u ~ b b i r b l a t acW. It L nlW ''Holy Caven because of old&qlilthg m eof E h e h e s t&%.wb&ai& fith weld.that b e a m wa s m~ the dweUhgd Bt .Maq drtbc Thetam is rtn ancient place tdpilgrkqge,and yau pro$.bl won%bedm8 itp u o h b he roo^ staimme to the mouth of t g e eammW e he cam is ra cold eprhg* Overtb ~rtgtwieshe wmhm

om- intoa richly ddecomtd&pL ..E g e n b r m a d e ~ t o ~ m , t b s r s E s a ~ r ~ l . t * m t r i p t o ~ ~ Srom wMoh wi l l pls you I &art muns in the geqmphg of fi.eotica of the ~~r~~ oout You aiu climb thm@ aM

. - . . TOULOUSE


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L. .. I I* 1 1 tr'he city of Toul- is one of the chief centers of had@,fitera*tme and nrt ijla aau thm Fmnm. If IfourElmi~dn tbismkimof catmtrJr is fromm a or from somewham hnorthernh n c e , the first Mng you wil l notice is the s tr iae mundingb a n aide& of th e pop@bere. This is CMPW of Francewhich long a 0 llfw-mmhum3asLAN@-Thatwo2Lmguekloewaswed fpp the-t h e h u t 280. !It&a from the f ~ that in thorndap thedfor uyes'' in 'this@on was 'be*. W p e 'ocolwt ' k g u e or l qpp of m"The rest of Frame, ehemfo~+would lw % q y e db i l h u m%l"WW thea the g e a d tBlpl far 9a'9 Pwl" has ch-dthrough themtwies to them* Frmch word ('min.T h e city af Toulow isan the righthnk of theQmmEma h t miles southmd of Bardeam Themain sethion curvesaround the river in the fom of w c- On E?mleft bank isthe low lying snburb of Sr-Cmmm. Ym m reach Sf.Cyppienby three bridges: Sh.P v o thenorth, Pam N w in the En-ter, andST,Mmm Plo them a . *a& mdn o d of city runs

the C ~ A L of the @ramu & h i which job the Lateral C-1here. The early h e of Twbw was del-ilped$-om a s a d wl intowhich coinsm d other derhgs were thrown by p#g.ims. %re -


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Th a n d du Midi, or ig ind l1 edIed fha C.ncl dn.hngudmtWBS bm bpa privnte oitinrm betwean 1686and 1081. PaulBi~qlutof B a k paid 1T&OD,Q00 out sf hi 5 OWXI pocket for thew a W which cannee& khe A W c with the Mediter-ranern&with the aid at tha ~a ronne .a a n d hgim at thePwrm L % W ~ O ~ H ~inTdouse and rumUB miIm to thede Thu,a small inLndm b the tom of Agdn an theMedihrrrrum.Thea n a l is35. feetwide at th e battamanel W at th emrf~tee.It is654 fest deep. At one point tiyw d limba aMU by memiOflockn Youp~ th ra~h lT l oaLB to c l imbWl l i s e t , t h en - t 8 gohack down on the other side, B drop ai f320feet, yon pass throughM ma!% lQtk$.The double row of tm whLh liners the cant11m ~ hcstwy*but 'that im7twhy they w e e plnntd there. The t rm r d wa pxatfftire ~M b a e r kagain& the seasona2 m i d n l whichmight -easily blow the wakr out d hr canal. Tbaw oak pine, ag- -pr-, aud phne trees make the cam1 Qua gf tba mst bautifdwaterways in Frarrm.7 8 .

isnousewiringhr your di'$ing suitbm -&mba& in U36 B,G,aTaulourse &ty o&cidgot thP1 'mmeidea. He drai~dhe pool.. andnppm~ritrtedhemwe3.. 3 l i t r t a vhen he was defeated in h t - .t2sby G a btrb,e o ~ o n e&d be@'ju& whatheb m d .Under early centyrres~db a n ub, Todow Wm homi mToha At that time i t %&,a ~ e r ynimportant P l i t ~ rSix OPsewen& east of themahipark of tbe city, up on.tho heights,p q l e arestill f i&ng- B X I . ~ of anddWhm wall maru gt h a 4Q of the oldEonmi@+j.hnent.thb found at t k t ~s m wspo6&teImik tothe54deemtugB.QThe t Mod- hiwry h g a n about TW +ban ~ m b a g n ed s i d r dhuma~h tBbaabg andd%upa rUI e r u l 8 ~ o fApdt&w, Wi& TouI0m.whis Eiisd&y, Prom the 11th mn-tury tb ge&d lords in southern f iance were the blurts ofTodome. BfEer &e middle of the mh mntury, th e people ofT d Q q w begam b $ q g tQ frge themdm3 fics~* p . r d dm byhudd overlosds3. It h k two h u d d pm, hut is 1- th e

' parliament of Todouse wasWalalkhed. It ww for T.mque.4~what the ,parlimnataf Pa& was Soi. n d a n Fwm,

Todamre was m g e M n the 8 ~ hentuq by Pit. Saturainw,mm&imdld.Bt.b i n . In 957 St.$atul.ninw refus& to mb l iaisistae&m&~~ :&h*. I t i s t b e l a r g d m d m dpa&& E ~ m ~ ~ ~6 feethy El0
mailto:@+j.hnentmailto:@+j.hnent


41/49

d r s i a &adlon bhaltar J &w m tF d by kiqgt idtatbhi ld&ebunmd gh the &rmh.i t TR- in T-I- that > 1 7 ~g a n to h o k "inorder to p s ~ sway time." Theh& uatb3 L f W d & of H a t i o w a hand- 03 p d i W economy thh* beame 1 ~ ;W i c . T h c d d w&on of Tonlouss isWt &no& &iM$ of red brick. Pmwm tourish t host rlwaya plreedTouluuse third onlyto Paris a d u e n as m e of the most interestingcities in gmnm.The erwid tmd &dpd @$ItCeP of TDU~OWBs the P u m mC OR theR ph~m.he Cnpitab, or HMel de Titi,waa n d a > b rtheamphnL.n Thstwa s what q i s t r r t h w amlledin the 18th eeatury. M d a l painkhgawithin the Capitolesre them h Of ToUIOUSBapthh. T h e sonth Ring of the Oapitalee n i n s he Municipl W Q r .If you walk north from he mate utu Capitoh.on the Bm anTAWp u p- tb l&,mnt~w & w 6 ef . E . ~ ~ z E - ~ ; , A ~ DD - T B ~ .This is the spat whwa 8t. Saturninns is suppwed t o baas lreentied t o ths ball. TheBus de Tam en& at . t th . PWwWm ,w h m them& fiunm d&t in TO&W b locatd

featinits- W e a &urch ~ the tomb 0-fst.S-W ~ ~ ~ . l I F , ~ M~ * ~ ~ * & ~ ' .~ o g d d -~;m*t h am .d d t d4TqMilmm h#maalp *. * ~ ~ t h e l 6 t h a 4 n d ~ ? t h ~tmia .me&atof thrse m=.Bewmd t6sn % m u ~ . d c s n d e m w S & a &m t & s ~ ~ ~ f r a a e + f a @ emtmmafl7w~cls~aftarmuwt h e b t U a o f P a & h l W ~ & W h k r n d m M w ~ W l 9and ItL It isnowpark id *e:&Jeb, o r , ~ ~ ~ r yb l , ad

con- theT a w bmm.The3 b m v t & w m ~smCMmmm-X~~mm pmmtgsd BBp&T o ~ o ~ af.@ I@1895 for&@I,w & ~ aof th e 4iw.It WM d &gut HM w-fimmd ' e t a mudias t andmaghhab st Todonre. P 4 m w w tltawt of& A 88T~immqwsmc*aend the hsbhs m

southern france

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