A TIMES OF INDIA PUBLICATION

INDIA

` 150

INDIAJANUARY 2020

KERALA l POLAND l TAMIL NADU l SOUTH AFRICA

TRAVEL GOALS

TIME TO SETyour

50+ REASONSTO GET OUT

THERE

BE THE ONE TO TRAVEL THROUGH

UNDISCOVEREDJAPAN

MEET THE LARGEST PREDATOR ON LAND IN

CHURCHILL, CANADA

TAKE A LEAP OF FAITH IN

THE SERENGETI, AFRICA

TREAT YOURSELF TO 10 DAYS ACROSS

BRAZIL

SPEND THE NIGHT WITH

SLOTHS IN COSTA RICA

040-Cover 2_Jan 2020-STAN_R1.indd 1 17/12/19 4:55 PM

Let travel transform your life…Can it? It can. Because, when you travel right, it changes the way you’ve lived thus far, and changes

the perspective with which you will approach your days to come.

Our 50+ travel goals this issue are all very different. Some of them gently challenge our physical limits, others tease the boundaries of our comfort zones. A few are sure to make serious demands on our bank balances. As you read through them, you will find goals that are easily achievable, others that will take

a bit of planning, some you might be doing already. All of them are meant to invite us to look again at the experiences we would like to add to our lives.

Perhaps you’d like to look polar bears in the eye from within a massive buggy in Churchill, Canada. Witness the migration of the wildebeest (with zebra and crocs as co-travellers) in Africa. Choose to visit a little-explored part of Japan – Tohoku is, incidentally, one of Lonely Planet’s Top 10 regions for 2020. Seek out the ancient port of Muziris near Kochi, Kerala. Or, so exciting, actually plan 10 days in Brazil with Kaushal Karkhanis, who has spent

much of his recent life immersing himself in South America.

It could be simpler aspirations too – to eat unusual foods in India or forage for your supper across the world, find your dancing feet in a different part of the world, look down from great heights, or spend

the night in the jungle – or on a luxury train right here in the sub-continent. Whatever your threshold of adventure, these travel goals will spark off a thirst to add a new dimension to your travel calendar.

These suggestions are just the beginning! Write in and tell us what we’ve inspired!

Primrose Monteiro-D’Souza, EditorFollow me on Twitter @PrimroseDSouza

& Instagram @primrosedsouza

editor’s note

THIS MONTH’S COVER

PHOTOGRAPH: SUSAN RICHEY/ 123RF Witnessing the great migration in Africa is on the bucket lists of travellers across the world. Excitement and danger are givens with this great swarm.

071-ED Note Jan 20-STAN.indd 33 17/12/19 3:41 PM

In this issue...VOLUME 10, ISSUE 12 | JANUARY 2020

EXPLOREYour world of new discoveries 08 Weekend planners: Sample

mouthwatering treats in Jaipur, Rajasthan, discover an unusual side to Ooty, Tamil Nadu, delve into the colonial past in Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, and other ways to make the most of your weekends

14 Quirky competitions: A year of unusual sports

16 Plan now: Rio Carnival18 The collection: Urban walks22 More reasons to get out there:

To discover Bulgaria, unearth literary riches in Calicut, Kerala, experience concerts and Broadway shows in New York, the USA, and more

JOURNALTales from the road 34 The Photo Story: Face off

in mysterious Bhutan 38 Your Photos: A farmer with

his produce at a grain market in Chandigarh, and other snapshots from you

41 Instagram photo challenge: Winter MINI GUIDES Themed guides to pull out and take with you118 Enjoy an unusual summer in

Cape Town, South Africa120 Fill up on local delicacies and earn

some karma in Madurai, Tamil Nadu122 Delve into the mythology of

magical Krakow, Poland

FOLLOW US ONLonely Planet Magazine India

@LPMagIn

@lonelyplanetmagazineindia

Seek out the largest land predator – safely, pg 62

Introducing our new front sections

p10

A bit of armchair travel is the best way to inspire a future trip. If you can’t get away this month or simply want to drift off on a daydream for an hour or two, let our writers, photographers and travellers take you on a vicarious journey, whether to London or the lively streets of Mumbai.

Whatever type of trip you’re planning this month, we’ve got the know-how to help you on your way. Our experts and locals share their recommendations and insider tips, meaning you’ll have a better holiday, whether you fancy a quick city break, an active trip that will really push your boundaries or a lazy weekend in the countryside.

YOUR WORLD OF DISCOVERIES

explore

TALES FROM THE

ROAD

JOURNAL

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Have a good trip in Tamil Nadu's capital with these free experiences

EXPLORE

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Chennai, India

5 INDULGE IN SOME ART The Focus Art Gallery is one

of the finest forums for art in the city. Showings include works by both contemporary artists and established names from across the country and world. The art isn’t just limited to one medium and the gallery is inclusive with exhibits by the differently-abled. With intriguing and captivating paintings from a variety of artists, lovers of art could easily spend hours here (www.focusartgallery.co.in; 19, Rukmani Lakshmipathi Rd, Balaji Nagar, Egmore).

4 LOSE YOURSELF AMID SEVEN FLOORS OF LITERATUREThe Anna Centenary Library, built at a cost of ̀ 172 crores and named after the former chief minister of Tamil Nadu CN Annadurai, is a state-of-the-art facility – the perfect sanctuary for

bibliophiles with a total of 1.2 million books spread across seven floors. You'll find a massive collection of regional reads and high-end university books, too (www.annacentenarylibrary.org; Gandhi Mandapam Rd, Surya Nagar, Kotturpuram).

1 STROLL BY THE SEAOf course, the most obvious choice for those looking to get the most out of Chennai without spending a rupee is Marina Beach. At 6km, it is the longest beach in the country and attracts thousands of visitors. With so many people milling about and as many vendors hawking their wares, from snacks to curios, the beach is most suited to those who are looking to be amid the hustle-bustle of a big city. It definitely showcases the flashier side of Chennai and will get you the trademark shots for your Instagram feed.

3 TAKE IN THE PERFECT SUNSET

Built in 1967 to ease local fishermen’s passage from Adyar to Srinivasapuram across the mouth of the Adyar River, the Broken Bridge collapsed 10 years after its construction. Although not repaired since then, it’s a major attraction for both visitors to the city and locals owing to the lovely panoramic views it offers. Relish the perfect sunset at the Broken Bridge in complete solitude (Theosophical Society, Adyar).

2ENJOY SOME PEACE AND QUIET If, instead, you want a bit of a break from the hustle and bustle of the city, head on down to the Theosophical Society. Spread across 260 acres, the enormous property is home to the Huddleston Gardens, which, in turn, is home to animals such as jackal, wild cat, mongoose, hare and a wide variety of migratory birds. Enjoy a tranquil walk here, catch up on some reading in the library, and browse the titles at the bookshop nearby (Arunachalapuram, Adyar).

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EXPLORE

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LONDON, ENGLAND

The Capital Ring Walk

(pictured left) circles

London and is divided into

15 chunks, allowing you to

cover the 78 miles over

multiple outings. The route

shows the city in all its

glorious (and gritty) diversity,

from the art-splashed streets

of Hackney Wick to the

wide open spaces

of Richmond Park, and

heritage properties such

as Eltham Palace.

www.tfl.gov.uk

SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA

Australia’s biggest city has

one of the world’s most

spectacular urban coastlines,

and you can walk the entire

thing – some 60 miles – if

you have a week to spare.

The trail (pictured left) begins

at Barrenjoey, at the tip

of Sydney’s northern

beaches, and plots a sandy

course to Manly before

heading inland to the

Harbour Bridge and

the southern shores

of Sydney Harbour.

www.sydney.comSAN FRANCISCO,

THE USA

Mapped out and made

good by trail-loving

volunteers and non-profit

groups, the 17-mile

Crosstown Trail (pictured

right) was inaugurated in

June 2019. It connects

pathways and green spaces

both celebrated and

undersung, wending from

Candlestick Point in San

Francisco’s southeast to

Land’s End up in the

northwest, via Visitación

Valley Greenway, McLaren

Park, Glen Canyon and

Golden Gate Park. There

are bike-friendly variants,

too. Signposting is sporadic:

don’t forget to take

downloadable trail maps.

www.crosstowntrail.org

BERLIN, GERMANY

Best known to cyclists,

the Berlin Wall Trail

(pictured right) follows

the course of the wall that

divided West Berlin from

East Germany from 1961

until it was famously

breached in 1989. It was

transformed into a walking

and cycling path, and

opened in 2006. The

trail is signposted and has

information boards detailing

the 28-year lifespan of

the wall, and memorials

to those who tried to escape.

www.berlin.de

The Berlin Wall Trail, 100 miles of cyclable

history

THE ULTIMATE COLLECTION

Urban walks

016-Urban walk Dec 19-STAN.indd 28

11/18/19 3:07 PM

p19

JOURNAL

Asia’s happiest country has a lot of stories to tell. And we mean that literally.

Faces“IS BHUTAN REALLY A HAPPY COUNTRY?” Krishna asked, breaking the brief moment of silence in the car as we drove from Phuentsholing to Thimphu. “Are people really happy, or is that just something everyone says?” he pressed on, looking expectantly at Bheem, our driver and guide of sorts, who kept his eyes glued to the road, but had a wide grin on his face.

Photographs: Krishna Prabakar T @krishnaprabakar

Words: Aurelia Fernandes @oreallyeah

THE PHOTO STORY

HAPPYShiny,

#1

COUNTRY IN

LONELY PLANET'S

BEST IN TRAVEL

2020

004-005-Photo story Bhutan-Shailesh_R1.indd 33-34 17/12/19 4:06 PM

GRAIN OF TRUTH

Chandigarh, Punjab

This picture was taken at the grain market

in Sector 39, Chandigarh. Farmers come

here from nearby villages to sell produce.

This man came to sell his paddy crop at the

market. I saw him sitting on the sacks and

started a conversation with him. He told me

he was waiting for his turn (to sell) since

morning and was tired. He also pointed

out that there was no proper arrangement for

drinking water or eateries nearby. Farmers

and traders often stay in the market for a full

day, sometimes two.

Chandigarh-based Manish

Kumar Meena enjoys

travel and photgraphy.

JOURNAL

Your travel photos and

the stories behind them

Your Photos

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EXPLORE

THE SECRET HISTORY OF

How evergreen branches made it from Ancient Egypt to Buckingham Palace

Christmas Trees

PLAN NOW

WHAT IS IT? The original carnival

brought over by the Portuguese had

its elaborate costumes, but it really

gained its energy with the input

of Afro-Brazilian music and dance.

Rio’s samba schools, each with

its own colour scheme and theme

tunes, now compete to drum out

the loudest beat, put together the

flashiest floats, and fit the most

sequins on the least amount

of clothing. WHEN TO SEE IT The main action

takes place over the five days before

the start of Lent on Ash Wednesday.

In 2020, the dates will be February

21 to 25. You’ll also find rehearsals

and parties in the weeks before,

and there’s a parade of champions

on the Saturday after (cheaper to

see than the headline show).

WHERE TO SEE IT The showpiece

of carnival is the Sambódromo:

an avenue lined on both sides

with permanent grandstands.

This is where the 14 top samba

schools strut their stuff, seven on

the Sunday night, and seven the

following evening. Carnival isn’t all

about the Sambódromo; most

cariocas (locals) and visitors will

celebrate on the streets without the

need for tickets. Bandas and blocos

(street parties led respectively by

brass bands and drummers) can be

found all over the city. Famous

ones include the massive, black-

and-white-garbed Cordão da

Bola Preta and the carnival-

ending Monobloco.

HOW TO SEE IT The Sambódromo

website (www.liesa.globo.com) is in

Portuguese only, and many other

online ticket-sellers can be

unreliable. Booking through

registered tour operators such as

Tucan Travel (www.tucantravel.com/

rio-carnival) is a safer bet. Official

prices start at around ̀ 3,700,

though it’s common to pay several

times that. See the Lonely Planet

Rio de Janeiro guide for more.

GETTING THERE While there are

no direct flights to Rio from India,

several carriers such as Air India,

Lufthansa and Emirates have

connecting flights from all

major airports.

Join the carnival in BrazilWhen the world’s biggest carnival fills Rio’s streets, bars

and the Sambódromo venue in February, it’s a celebration

that’s central to Brazilian life. Book hotel rooms or

apartments, and start practising your samba moves now

20,00,000Estimated number of

revellers on each day of Rio’s carnival

500+ Number of street parties

in the city

90,000 Seating capacity of the

Sambódromo

75

Number of minutes (give

or take) that each samba

school gets to parade in the Sambódromo

2/4 Usual time signature for

samba, for example heard

in a batucada drum rhythm

1917Year that Pelo Telefone,

thought to be the first

recorded samba track, was released

RIO CARNIVAL FACTS

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MORE ON BRAZIL IN OUR FEATURES SECTION

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EXPLORE

Appreciate ancient architecture, sample delectable street food or marvel at fossils... the options are many

Look beyond the obvious

Fill up on delicious local fare in Jaipur, RajasthanThe most obvious things to do in Jaipur might be to gawk at the stunning architecture or to shop your heart out, but we encourage you to look beyond the usual. Try the local cuisine; it’s delectable and caters to a wide variety of tastes.

Rawat Misthan Bhandar might not have space to sit, but you won’t mind standing while you wolf down pyaaz kachori (deep-fried pastry stuffed with onion, potato and masala) and piping-hot jalebis (00-91-141-236-0608; Station Rd, near Polo Victory Cinema; 6.30am – 10.30pm; pyaaz kachori: ̀ 30, jalebi: ` 350/ kg). Follow up with the lassi at Lassiwala (00-91-141-2378692; 312, MI Rd; 8am – 4pm; lassi: ̀ 25). If you thought the local fare would only include vegetarian options, you couldn’t be further from the truth. Dispel your doubts with the mouthwatering mutton nihari at Islami Kallu Hotel (00-91-9680421320; 135/ 136, Ramganj Bazaar; 6.30am – 12am; biryani: ̀ 80, nihari: ̀ 200). The meat, cooked for six to 10 hours, simply slides off the bone. If more variety is your thing, head on down to Saba Haveli (00-91-141-2630521; 477, Gangapole; 11.30am – 2.30pm, 7pm – 11pm, reservations preferred; non-veg thali: ̀ 750, veg thali: ̀ 650). The haveli itself is awe-inspiring, and the meal, served on silver thalis in a multitude of katoris, is superbly elaborate. Expect the unexpected in Jaipur; the food is not just delicious, it’s an experience to remember.

Go on a temple run across Kanchipuram, Tamil NaduWhile most people know this busy little town for saris and idlis, the temple architecture here is fascinating. Most of the places of worship were constructed during the Pallava dynasty, from 6th – 8th century BC, so, even if you’re not religious, you’ll get a magical glimpse into the rich history of the region.

Start your day early, before hordes of the faithful overrun the temple complexes. Make your first stop Kailasanatha Temple, the oldest in town, dating back to 8th century BC. You will spot half-animal deities, characteristic of early Dravidian architecture, along with the 108 dance poses of Shiva in stone, and this is still a functional temple, so you can offer prayers here (6.30am – 6.30pm, inner sanctum; 6.30am – 12pm, 4pm – 6.30pm; free). Head next to the Vaikunta Perimal Temple for a glimpse of the historic and mythological scenes carved onto the walls (8.30am – 12pm, 4pm – 8.30pm; photography prohibited in the inner sanctum; free). Finish up the day’s run with the Varadaraja Perumal Temple, famed for its marriage hall (9am – 12.30pm, 3.30pm – 5pm; entry: ̀ 1, camera fee: ` 5). There are a hundred pillars here, all etched with extravagant carvings. Three temples might not seem like much for an entire day’s itinerary but, given the exquisite details, you’re bound to take your time taking it all in. And there will still be more left to see next time.

Marvel at the past in Balasinor, Gujarat Royalty and dinosaurs might usually only be associated together in sarcastic jokes, but, in Balasinor, a two-hour drive from Ahmedabad, there’s a far more interesting connect. Balasinor hosts the 72-acre Dinosaur Fossil Park. For millions of years, the fossils here lay ignored until they were discovered as recently as in 1981. Even after that, it’s been difficult getting these the recognition they deserve. You could explore the park by yourself, but it’s difficult for the inexperienced to differentiate between a regular rock and a fossil (despite the fences around some of the fossils). The best guide to have is the custodian of the park, Aaliya Sultana Babi, princess from the royal family of Balasinor. Not only does she have in-depth knowledge of the ancient secrets buried here but she’ll also discuss dino extinction theories and the research that went into the fossil sites here. One highlight is the pit in which fossils from the Rajasaurus Narmadensis, a predatory species from the late Cretaceous period, were found. It’s not all prehistoric though, the attractions here – you can also experience living with royalty at the Garden Palace Heritage Homestay, home of Balasinor’s royal family (00-91-73591-46071; Garden Palace Rd, Balasinor). A trip to Balasinor is a journey into the past unlike any other.

The Kamakshi Amman temple is important for Shakti worship

Out of

CHENNAI

(72km)

Out of

DELHI

(282km)

Out of

AHMEDABAD

(88km)

1

2 4

3

STAY: Arya Niwas (www.aryaniwas.com; from ̀ 1,500); Saba Haveli (www. sabahaveli.com; from ̀ 5,500)

STAY: Garden Palace Heritage Homestay (www.palacebalasinor.com, bookingsbalasinor@gmail.com; from ̀ 4,480);

STAY: Sree Sakthi Residency (www.sreesakthiresidency.com; from ̀ 1,700); GRT Regency Hotel (www.grthotels.com; from ̀ 3,500).

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1 & 2. The thick, rich and creamy lassi from Lassiwala

qualifies as a meal in itself3 & 4. The fossils at Balasinor

were only discovered as recently as in 1981

Words SAMARPAN BHOWMIK @sum.err.pun

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In this issue...VOLUME 10, ISSUE 12 | JANUARY 2020

Dance to your own tunes, pg 106

FEATURES

Unearth the best-kept secrets of the

Tohuku region, Japan, pg 82

Live out your South American

fantasy in Brazil, pg 46

Goals that make the journey worthy43 Let Brazil seduce you with its smorgasbord

of marvellous experiences 58 Witness beauty on a grand scale with

swarms across the planet 60 Challenge your taste buds with

unusual foods across India 62 Marvel at how humans live alongside an

apex predator in Churchill, Canada 74 Follow in the pioneering footsteps of

our ancestors and embrace the joy of discovery

76 Ride in majestic luxury across the dramatic landscapes of the subcontinent

78 Soak up solitude by travelling when most others don’t

80 Discover sweeping views from up high 82 Unearth the secrets of the Tohuku region

in Japan92 Set off on a journey to rediscover the

primal fascination with darkness94 Get out and gather your own food96 Set out on your own to discover Mallorca,

Spain, like few do102 Let the raw power of nature teach you

vital life lessons 104 Feel an absolute connect with nature

in the heart of a jungle 106 Make your moves without a care in the

world, and follow your own tune108 Seek out gorgeous shoot locations

across our country110 Journey into the glorious past at Port Muziris,

in Kochi, Kerala

6 January 2020