Spreading and Cutting

Of Apparel Products

Reference MaterialPrabir Jana

Associate Professor

Garment Manufacturing Technology Department

National Institute of Fashion Technology

New Delhi Calcutta Hyderabad Chennai Mumbai Gandhinagar Bangalore

Spreading and Marker Making parameters are basically the important functions and check points need to be considered during spreading and marker making process in cutting room.

Spreading Parameters

1. Spreading table surface should be smooth enough to facilitate movement of cutting machine

1. Cutting table should be in modules & have height adjustments according to slope in the floor.

1. Before spreading fabric rolls should be segregated based on the colour shade and fabric width

1. Based on the fabric classification decide in spreading mode.

1. Based on the fabric type, marker length and end cutting equipment, you have to determine the end loss, which will determine the lay length. Total ply length is marked on the table before start of laying.

1. Fabric ply tension has to be correct, it should neither be too tight nor too loose.

1. Fabric should be correctly checked before it come on the spreading table.

1. Spreading height should be compatible to the cutting machine blade.

1. Ensure that the layer ends are as even as possible.

1. In between different rolls put indication flag to identify different rolls.

1. Lay lot planning to optimise cutting cost

1. For dimensionally unstable flimsy fabrics a layer of marker paper should be laid before putting the first ply. During laying the first ply, either all the sides or some portions are stuck to the table using tapes so that the first layer does not slip. During cutting the tapes are taken out.

1. Always one side of the selvage has to be aligned (all selvages have to be one or top of each other)

1. End pieces should be marked with lay no. and stored for changing any rejected component of the garment in subsequent process.

1. Use paper in between plies at regular intervals to reduce interply slippage

1. Bigger the roll length lesser the wastage and lesser the machine downtime (While using spreading machine)

1. While using splicing technique, please ensure that number of plies at both end of the lay is equal.

1. For horizontal stripe in knitted fabric open width marker making should be preferred.

1. For fabrics with high twisted yarn tearing is preferred than end cutting during laying.

Marking Making Parameters

1. Wider the width of fabric, better the consumption

1. Arrange bigger patterns first

1. Open width of knits gives better consumption for maximum styles.

1. Effective width is width the area can really be used without the selvedge.

1. Grain line should always be followed

1. Table length is a limitation.

1. Follow the pattern checklist.

1. Colour variation has to be taken into account while sorting fabric rolls (centre-selvedge colour variation).

1. Keeping in mind roll length available we can calculate effectively the lay length for more effective utilisation of fabric.

1. Block cutting is followed for embroidery purpose, and for check matching.

1. Cutting cuffs length-wise on fold is also being followed factories to maximum utilisation.

1. Fabric type decides the marker mode.

1. Extra area created at pattern edges based on stickering (stamping) procedure to be followed.

1. Enlarged pattern blocks in marker for embroidery.

1. Cutting equipment may influence the space between patterns.

1. Patterns arrangement in marker should depend on centre-to-selvedge or selvedge-to-selvedge colour variation, if any.