Spring Is Here -So Are The Weeds! The February program presented by Rand Swanigan of MoDOT gave us one of the more informative

programs about weeds. One of the board that to mental weeds that has come into Missouri in recent

years has been the spotted nap weed. It is believed to have been broad and diverse state in the hay that

was purchased from the far West during a previous drought. Much of it was originally located by the

railroad tracks Southwest Missouri where the seed had blown off of the flat cars out of Montana and

Wyoming. Once a weed invades our state it takes a joint effort of not only MoDOT. Conservation, and

the Missouri Extension Service to identify its origin and what is necessary to control or eradicate a

weed.

And other discussion was brought about the coming year, and like everyone else the weather. It is

believed by most experts that are drought like conditions of last year will continue for this year. This

brought about an additional discussion of the necessity of reconsidering native plants, grasses, and

flowers.

It just so happened that MU Extension sent out a story you will find in the next few pages that is in

conjunction and mirrors this past month’s program. Also you will find the latest news flowers and plants

listed in the following pages.

Official Publication of Master Gardeners of Laclede County

March - 2013

Martha Washington This is Burpee’s newest petunia. I usually am

not very impressed with petunias but this

appears to be one of the brightest and most

colorful petunias to come out and sometimes.

Burpee says every so often an extraordinary

flower variety will appear which makes even

seasoned plant experts do and all! Martha

Washington is impossibly beautiful, a marvel

of form and color. Sumptuous three-inch pink

blooms with light rose in their center

resemble exquisite pinker than pink rosebuds.

Compact, mounded plants are true

conversation pieces. If you are a petunia

lover you will most definitely want this new

variety for your garden this year

New Bedding Plants for 2013

Perhaps the best thing that can be said about February is that it’s the shortest month of the year. The

cold, dreary days of winter can be made a bit more tolerant, however, by poring over seed catalogs (and

websites) wishfully thinking about the upcoming growing season. If the prospect of growing something

new or different interests you, then 2013 should be quite a gardening treat. Seed companies have

introduced 60 new varieties of annuals and perennials, several of which received the coveted All

American Selection (AAS) Award. Below is a description of a number of the new bedding plants for

2013 that should, in most cases, fare well in Missouri.

Angelonia 'Serenita' (Angelonia angustifolia). 'Serenita' angelonia is a great choice for beds, borders,

or containers for long-lasting color with very little maintenance. Free-blooming, it also is deer and rabbit

resistant. For water-wise gardeners, 'Serenita' is heat and drought tolerant. Mix with other sun-loving

annuals to add height and interest. This is a good plant for beginning gardeners and is available in

several colors. From Pan-American Seed.

Begonia 'Ikon Bronze' F1 (Begonia x hybrida). 'Ikon Bronze' is a true performer. Its rich, bronze

foliage contrasts beautifully with its blush-white flowers. It displays a vigorous spreading/mounding

growth habit making it ideal for containers, baskets and ground beds, either on its own or in

combinations. It thrives in sunny or shady spots and can tolerate heat and humidity with minimal care.

‘Ikon Bronze’ is self-cleaning and drops its spent flowers.

Begonia 'Million Kisses Honeymoon' (Begonia boliviensis). Begonia 'Million Kisses Honeymoon' is a

vigorous trailing begonia perfect for large-size hanging baskets. Its branches are full of large, light-

yellow blooms that brighten up a shady setting. It also is easy to grow with little maintenance needed to

keep it blooming summer through fall. From Ball Ingenuity.

Begonia 'Santa Cruz® Sunset' (Begonia boliviensis). Native to Bolivia, this tough plant is perfect for

landscapes, hanging baskets or containers that need to tolerate extreme weather conditions. It branches

naturally to produce a full, lush-looking plant that's loaded with flowers all season long. The large 5"

wide bright scarlet flowers show off in any location from full sun to partial shade. 'Santa Cruz ® Sunset'

doesn't need deadheading. In spite of the record breaking heat this past summer, 'Santa Cruz® Sunset'

performed beautifully across the country.

Begonia 'Sparks Will Fly' (Begonia hybrida). 'Sparks Will Fly' begonia has dazzling tangerine flowers

that shoot forth from bronze foliage. It is a great choice for brightening up shady garden areas, and ideal

in small patio containers. 'Sparks Will Fly' is low-maintenance for easy gardening and decorating. Plants

bloom until frost; flowers are flushed with yellow in the fall. From Burpee Home Gardens.

Buddleia 'Flutterby' (Buddleia hybrid). Tolerant of drought and heat, Buddleia 'Flutterby' does well in

many landscape settings, or in large-size containers. Its fragrant flowers are richly colored and bloom

continuously from early summer until frost. Nectar-producing plants such as buddleia attract butterflies,

bees and other pollinators to the garden. From Ball Ornamentals

.Calibrachoa 'MiniFamous Double' (Calibrachoa cultivars). 'MiniFamous Double' calibrachoa has a

true double flower and exhibits great performance in the garden across a range of exposures. It is ideal

for creating an upscale look for pots and mixed combos. The ‘MiniFamous’ color range broadens this

year with new ‘Rose Chai,’ ‘Deep Yellow’ and ‘Magenta.’ From Selecta.

Canna 'South Pacific Scarlet' F1 (Canna generalis). An AAS Award winner, ‘South Pacific’ will add

a touch of the tropics to your garden with showy, 4” flowers that bloom all summer in a vibrant shade of

scarlet. AAS judges raved about this seed-propagated F1 hybrid canna because it is such a free bloomer.

‘South Pacific’ grows up 4-5’ tall, providing a great grouping of specimen plants or a back-of-the-border

focal point. Its colorful blooms are produced on a flower spike held above the large-leafed, statuesque

plants. As with other cannas, ‘South Pacific’ tolerates moist soil so it can be used as a pond border or in

other similar settings.

Celosia 'Intenz' (Celosia caracus). Celosia 'Intenz' has vibrant color on spiky blooms that add sought-

after texture to mixed containers. ‘Intenz’ also is versatile. Plant it in beds, borders or patio containers. It

performs great in full-sun and blooms all summer long. ‘Intenz’ is a low-maintenance plant with high

appeal. From Ball Ingenuity.

Cosmos 'Rubenza' (Cosmos bipinnatus). 'Rubenza' represents a unique color for cosmos, with flowers

that open as a dark ruby red and then mature to deep rose. Its color and visual effect in the garden is

striking. It also attracts helpful pollinators like bees and butterflies. ‘Rubenza’ is gorgeous in flower

beds and borders, and it also works well as a summertime cut flower. Like most cosmos, it performs

well through heat, rain, and wind. Height: 24-32"; 14-20" spread.

Echinacea 'Cheyenne Spirit' (Echinacea hybrida). This AAS Award winner is a stunning Echinacea

that flowers the first year. It captures the spirit of the North American plains by producing a delightful

mix of flower colors from rich purple, pink, red and orange tones to lighter yellows, creams and white.

This wide range of flower colors on well-branched, durable plants are sure to please the color

preferences of any gardener. As an added bonus, ‘Cheyenne Spirit’ does not require a lot of water and

still offers a wide-range of uses including a perennial border, a mass landscape planting, a butterfly

garden or as a cut flower.

Echinacea 'Sombrero Lemon Yellow' (Echinacea purpurea). 'Sombrero' Echinacea offers bright,

vibrant flowers coupled with outstanding garden performance. It is perfect for cottage, perennial and

butterfly gardens. 'Sombrero Lemon Yellow' produces a compact plant with good branching; its flowers

are rich and bright in color. From Darwin Perennials.

Geranium 'Calliope® ‘Burgundy' &’Hot Pink’ (Pelargonium interspecific). Extremely well-

branched, the Calliope® series is noted for vigorous, mounding growth habit with good heat tolerance.

They are ideal for baskets, large pots and landscape applications. 'Calliope® ‘Burgundy' &’Hot Pink’

represent two new colors to the series. Both produce large, semi-double flowers with stunning color.

Both do well in full sun or part-sun/shade exposures.

Geranium 'Pinto Premium White to Rose' F1 (Pelargonium x hortorum). This AAS Award winner is

an addition to the 'Pinto Premium' series. Not only is the flower coloration unique and beautiful, but the

numerous 5” blooms are long-lasting in the garden. Petals start out white then deepen to rose-pink as

flowers mature, giving an attractive bicolor effect. Dense, well-branched plants sport deep green leaves

with darker zones that contrast beautifully with the light colored flowers. 'Pinto Premium White to Rose'

is a great choice for carefree, colorful summer garden beds or patio containers.

Geranium 'Salmon Frills' (Pelargonium x hortorum). 'Salmon Frills' bears large salmon blooms with

white edges and is very free flowering. This variety has medium green foliage with a dark zone, adding

additional interest. Extremely weather tolerant, this variety has good vigor for a nice sized container or

garden bed. It exhibits good garden performance and performs well from full sun to part-shade

exposures.

Heliomeris 'Sunsplash' (Heliomeris multiflora). This new selection provides a luminous burst of

entrancing color. A native plant from the American prairies, this free-flowering beauty is a standout. An

unusual bicolor of white and yellow, the daisy like flowers are a gorgeous variant on the usual solid

yellow flowers of the Heliomeris. Winter-hardy, perennial plants achieve a height of 10" and flower the

freely the first year and all summer long.

Impatiens 'Patchwork Cosmic Orange' (Impatiens walleriana). 'Patchwork' impatiens brightens shady

garden spaces. It makes gorgeous and colorful hanging baskets and is low-maintenance. Patchwork’s

dark green-leaves showcase its vibrant tri-color blooms with non-stop flowers all season. Its unique

colors “shimmer” in the shade. From Ball Flora Plant.

Impatiens 'SunPatiens® Compact Electric Orange' (Impatiens x hybrid hort). 'SunPatiens® Compact

Electric Orange' will perform wonderfully in the landscape or in containers on a deck or patio. It

produces dense plants that are covered with blooms from spring through a few light frosts. A robust

grower, it can achieve a height of up to 36 inches in height and equal width in full to partial sun.

SunPatiens® take heat and humidity well and keeps blooming all season.

Ornamental Pepper 'Cubana' (Capsicum annuum). This new ornamental pepper boasts large,

vibrantly colored oval shaped peppers that are held above attractive, compact plants. Trendy, stylish and

colorful, 'Cubana' makes an excellent fall display with its rich, autumnal colors. It is available in several

colors including deep orange, light orange, red, yellow, multicolor orange and multicolor red.

Petchoa 'SuperCal® Violet' (Petchoa hybrid). Petchoa SuperCal® 'Violet' exhibits a wonderful

combination of petunia and calibrachoa traits. The series offers large blooms in unique colors that are

sure to brighten up a front porch or patio. Its foliage is not sticky, so the flowers drop easily from the

plant as they age. Additionally, the plants hold up very well in all types of weather--including the heat.

Since ‘SuperCal® Violet’ tolerates cooler weather too, so it will perform well early spring through fall.

Petunia 'Picobella™ Cascade Red' (Petunia x hybrida milliflora). Loaded with dainty flowers that top

highly-branched, spreading plants, this new introduction is ideal for beds, borders and premium baskets.

It flowers early, even under short days and rewards its caretakers with a season-long display of vibrant

color.

Petunia 'Shock Wave Deep Purple' (Petunia x hybrida). For high visual impact to a garden or patio

'Shock Wave Deep Purple' is hard to beat. It bears vibrant, deep purple 1½ - 2" blooms that appear early

in the season and literally blanket the plant with color. It’s mounded; spreading plants lend a full, color-

packed look to patio containers and hanging baskets. Additionally, they keep a neat appearance through

heat, rain, wind, and light frosts. Plants grow to a height of 7-10" with a 30-36" spread.

Petunia 'Sophistica Lime Green' (Petunia x hybrida). Bring a twist of lime to your garden this summer

with 'Sophistica Lime Green'. It’s big, splashy blooms offer bold impact on their own, and provide a

high-impact complement to deep purple, blue, and burgundy petunias. Its bright green-yellow blooms

make excellent specimen plants in the garden and perform very well in baskets and containers.

'Sophistica Lime Green' produces upright plants 10-15" in height with a 10-12" spread that are easy to

manage and tolerate heat.

Petunia 'Trellis Pink' (Petunia x hybrida). Another great petunia improvement, 'Trellis Pink' exhibits a

unique upright growing habit and is aggressive. It produces a multitude of flowers on plants that lend

themselves to trellis production. ‘Trellis Pink’ is the only petunia on the market with an upright growth

habit.

Petunia 'Trilogy' (Petunia x hybrida). Petunia 'Trilogy' has a novel dome shape and produces an

abundance of care-free color all summer long. Plants have excellent performance in containers, baskets

and in the garden. 'Trilogy' will spread up to 30 to 36 inches when planted in the ground and will wow

you with its unique shape and flower power.

Salvia ‘Lighthouse Purple’ (Salvia splendens). ‘Lighthouse Purple’ is an excellent background plant

for the border. Planted behind the likes of petunias, marigolds or other low-growing flowers, the deep

purple spikes with dark to black corollas of the statuesque 3 foot plants become beacons of mesmerizing

color. Showy in the garden or in a container, it is easy to grow. Its upright, heat-tolerant plants are low-

maintenance and have high visual impact.

Sunflower 'Zohar' F1 (Hellianthus annuus). 'Zohar' is an excellent sunflower for cutting. It produces

straight, single sturdy stems that rise 3-4 feet in height and produce blooms 4-6 inches in diameter. Its

flower petals are rays of rich orange surrounding a dark center disk. 'Zohar' is a pollen-less sunflower of

superior quality. It can be used as a cut flower in as little as 40-50 days, when the first sign of color

appears on the petals.

Sunflower 'Solar Flare' (Helianthus annuus). 'Solar Flare' is a glowing, showy sunflower that is a real

attention-getter. This dazzling flame-type sunflower offers a unique color contrast. Its dark black disk is

orbited by ray petals scarlet-red in color, finishing to gold at their tapered tips. It grows to 5-6 feet tall

and its flowers are long-lived when cut.

Verbena 'Lanai® Candy Cane' (Verbena hybrida). 'Lanai® Candy Cane' is early to bloom and bears

large, striking flowers in a wide assortment of colors. It exhibits exceptional powdery mildew resistance

and tolerates heat well.

Zinnia 'Profusion Double Deep Salmon' (Zinnia hybrida). This AAS Award winner features an

abundance of salmon colored, double flowers that cover attractive compact mounded plants from late

spring through fall. It exhibits outstanding garden performance and offers disease resistance to both

Alternaria and powdery mildew. Like all zinnias it puts up well with heat and is nearly maintenance-

free.

It’s time to start thinking about that pre-emergence…

Crabgrass Goosegrass

Remember last year. A number of folks out there followed the calendar for their applications of pre-emergence

herbicides and were too late. Typically in Missouri, we recommend those him applications take place toward

the end of March to the middle of April. Some like to follow the phenology of forsythia blooms dropping to

dictate their applications of pre-emergence herbicides. In all cases, with a year like last year; you would have

been too late.

Pre-emergent herbicides are so-named because they must be in place before annual weed seedlings emerge. Pre-

emergent herbicides will not kill weeds that have already emerged. The optimum time to apply your pre-

emergent is when the soil temperature reaches 55 F for five consecutive days in the top inch of soil. You can be

assured that annual weeds will begin to emerge at that time. Applying a pre-emergence herbicide at this time

will provide the optimum length of control. However, length of control is also dependent on other factors such

as amounts of rainfall, temperatures, etc. It is imperative that the pre-emergent be applied at the right time and

watered down into the soil surface either by light irrigation or rainfall (approximately ½” of water).

If using an organic pre-emergence, such as corn gluten, applications should be anticipated seven to ten days

prior to these soil temperature requirements. Organic products will require a little more time to breakdown and

become active. Organic products should be watered-in lightly as well in order for particles to come in contact

with soil microbes to begin activation. As the plant proteins of the organic fertilizer (corn gluten) breakdown, a

natural plant toxin is released which serves as a partial pre-emergent.

Many effective products are available, many of which are impregnated into fertilizers or used alone. Regardless

of the combination, both need to be watered-in to be activated. Upon weed seed germination, that first root

comes in contact with the herbicide ladened soil and dies.

Culturally, it is still best to maintain a good quality, dense canopy to compete against weeds. If at all possible,

try mowing at the highest possible height. Mowing at a height of 3.5 inches versus 1.5 inches can reduce annual

weed populations up to 80%. Creating a shade effect with good density is the best defense against annual

weeds. This combination will also reduce the number of perennial weeds you find, such as dandelion, plantains,

etc.

Table 1. Pre-emergence products for annual weed control.

Active

Ingredient Trade Name

Turfgrass

Species¹ Annual Weeds

corn gluten

Bradfield Organics, Concern

Weed Preventer, Espoma

Organic Weed Preventer

KBG, PR,

TF, Z

Barnyardgrass, Crabgrass, Foxtail,

Dandelions, Pigweed, Purslane

dithiopyr² Dimension 2EW, 40WP KBG, PR,

TF, Z

Barnyardgrass, Crabgrass, Foxtail,

Goosegrass, Carpetweed, Henbit, Knotweed,

Purslane, Spurge, Woodsorrel

isoxaben³ Gallery 75DF KBG, PR,

TF, Z

Chickweed, Henbit, Knotweed, Pigweed,

Plantain, Purslane, Shepherd’s-purse, Spurge

pendimethalin Pendulum EC, Fl, G KBG, PR,

TF, Z

Annual bluegrass, Barnyardgrass, Crabgrass,

Fall Panicum, Foxtail, Goosegrass,

Chickweed, Henbit, Knotweed, Purslane,

Spurge

prodiamine Barricade 65WDG, Fl KBG, PR,

TF, Z

Annual bluegrass, Barnyardgrass, Crabgrass,

Fall Panicum, Foxtail, Goosegrass,

Carpetweed, Chickweed, Henbit, Purslane,

Spurge

¹ KBG = Kentucky bluegrass, PR = perennial ryegrass, TF = tall fescue, Z = zoysiagrass

² Dimension provides some post-emergence activity, read the label.

³ Controls only broadleaf weeds.

Pre-emergence herbicides are often referred to as crabgrass preventers. This should not be common

terminology. Pre-emergence herbicides and corn gluten control far more than just crabgrass. If you read

the labels of these products you will find annual grasses, such as annual bluegrass, barnyardgrass,

crabgrass, goosegrass, foxtails, fall panicum, etc. Pre-emergence products also control several annual

broadleaf weeds, such as carpetweed, henbit, purslane, knotweed, spurge, etc. Always check the product

label to determine which product may benefit you the most and read label directions carefully. Do not

over apply, either by excessive overlapping or by applying more material than recommended to a

specific area. Applying too much herbicide product could result in damage to turfgrass roots.

The following table 1 includes a list of current pre-emergence herbicides and provides active ingredient,

trade name, turfgrass species and a condensed weed list.

All herbicide information is presented with the understanding that no endorsement of named products is

intended by the University of Missouri, nor criticism implied of similar products that are not mentioned.

This article is not a substitution for any product label. Before using any herbicide please read the label

carefully for directions on application procedures, application rates, first aid, storage and disposal. Make

sure that the herbicide is properly registered for the intended use. Carefully read all precautions on

turfgrass sensitivity to products and timings.

Company websites readily allow access to and the downloading of product labels and MSDS’s.

Manufacturers and suppliers maintain toll-free numbers for the purpose of providing answers to any

technical question you may have on their specific products. You can also contact your local extension

office.

Roasted Sunchokes with Salsa Verde

½ lb. Sunchokes, scrubbed very well, and cut into cubes ½”

5 cloves Garlic, peeled

¼ cup olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the Salsa Verda

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

2/3 cup roughly chopped Parsley

2 tablespoons Capers, drained

4 oil-packed Anchovies, chopped

2 cloves garlic, peeled

½ lemon, juiced

Kosher salt and freshly ground blacked pepper.

For the Salsa, add the olive oil, parsley, capers, anchovies, garlic and lemon juice to a food processor until smooth

For the Sunchokes – Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees F. Place the sunchokes and garlic on a sheet tray. Drizzle with

the olive oil and toss. Season with salt and pepper and toss again.

Roast for 30 minutes, tossing halfway through cooking. Place in a bowl and serve with a few spoonfuls of the

Salsa Verde.

This Flowerpot Birdhouse Will Fill Your Garden with

Song

With a few modifications, this clay pot will "grow" generations of wrens.

Here's a rather interesting twist—a flowerpot project that has nothing to do with plants and

everything to do with birds.

With a little bit of remodeling, you can put out the welcome mat for wrens with this easy-to-

build birdhouse, which requires a minimum of tools and effort.

Susan Vater created this birdhouse for her garden in Middleton, Wisconsin. Because the

house is small, she says it's perfect for hanging in the thick vegetation that wrens prefer.

The only difficult part of this project is making the entrance hole in the flowerpot.

The hole should be 1 inch in diameter, or as veteran wren house builders say, "large enough for a quarter to pass through".

Glass drill bits work best for drilling into the clay, but masonry bits work almost as well. If you don't have either, don't worry—regular drill bits will do the job, too.

They'll just need sharpening after you're finished. But if you think you can take a shortcut by using a spade bit, don't try it. You'll end up with a broken pot.

Here's What You'll Need...

8-inch clay flowerpot

10-inch x 10-inch piece of plywood

at least 1/4 inch thick

One 8-inch eyebolt and nut

Two fender washers

Hook or chain for hanging birdhouse

Recommended Tools...

Rat-tail file

Power drill

Half-round file

Saber saw

A Little at a Time

1. Locate the entrance hole and use a small drill bit (1/8 inch or less) to start

a hole at its center. Then work your way up to larger bits, gradually

enlarging the hole. Here are some suggestions that may help:

o Use a slow speed while drilling.

o Wipe the bit often with a damp rag to clean it. (Keep electric drills

away from water!)

o Do not use force as you drill.

2. Once you've used your largest drill bit, it's time to test your patience-the

rest of the hole will be enlarged by hand with a rat-tail file and finished with

a half-round file. This may take up to 30 minutes.

There's a secret to making steady progress-keep your file clean. Tapping or brushing out the dust won't be enough; you'll need to rinse the file in a

bucket of water before continuing.

Once the entrance is just large enough to pass a quarter through, the most difficult work is finished. But be careful...this is no time to accidentally drop

the flowerpot!

3. Trace the open end of the pot on a piece of 1/4-inch or thicker plywood to

make the floor to the house. (Be sure to use plywood and not particle

board, which soaks up water like a sponge.) Cut the circular base with a

saber saw about 1/4 inch wider than the guideline.

4. In the center of the plywood base, drill a hole large enough for the eyebolt

to pass through. Then set the flowerpot upside down on top of the plywood

base.

5. Slip a fender washer onto the eyebolt and pass it through the pot's

drainage hole and through the plywood base. Slip another washer over the

end of the eyebolt and secure it with a nut. (Be careful not to over-tighten

the nut-you might break the pot.)

Now your wren house is ready to hang. Using a hook or chain, suspend the house

from a sturdy support 5 to 10 feet above the ground, preferably in an area with plenty of low growth. Then wait for your tenants to arrive.

There'll be no doubt when the wrens do move in for you will find they are

especially robust singers, with a distinctive trill at the end of each song.

Because the wrens' diet consists primarily of insects, you'll not only be grateful for

their beautiful serenade. They'll police your garden, eating many uninvited guests.

The Cover pretty well tells the story –do not believe I have seen or heard of any of the seed or the company.

Next Meeting

Thursday, March 7th – 6:30 p.m.

March Gardening Calendar

Houseplants

Weeks 1-4: Two handsome houseplants that provide fragrant blossoms indoors this month are

the Confederate Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) and Japanese Pittosporum

(Pittosporum tobira). Both thrive in average home conditions and are easy plants to grow.

Weeks 1-4: As day lengths increase, plants begin new growth. Repot root bound plants, moving

them to containers 2 inches larger in diameter than their current pot. Check for insect activity and

apply controls as needed. Leggy plants may be pruned now.

Ornamentals

Weeks 1-4: Trees, shrubs and perennials may be planted as soon as they become available at

local nurseries.

Weeks 1-4: To control Iris borer, clean up and destroy the old foliage before new growth begins.

Weeks 1-4: Fertilize bulbs with a "bulb booster" formulation broadcast over the planting beds.

Hose off any granules that stick to the foliage.

Weeks 1-4: Dormant mail order plants should be unwrapped immediately. Keep the roots from

drying out, store in a cool protected spot, and plant as soon as conditions allow.

Weeks 1-4: Loosen winter mulches from perennials cautiously. Re-cover plants at night if frost

returns. Clean up beds by removing all weeds and dead foliage at this time.

Weeks 1-2: Heavy pruning of trees should be complete before growth occurs. Trees should not

be pruned while the new leaves are growing.

Weeks 1-2: Seeds of hardy annuals such as larkspur, bachelor's buttons, Shirley and California

poppies should be direct sown in the garden now.

Weeks 2-4: Summer and fall blooming perennials should be divided in spring.

Weeks 3-4: Ornamental grasses should be cut to the ground just as the new growth begins.

Weeks 3-4: Spring bedding plants, such as pansies and toadflax (Linaria sp.), may be planted

outdoors now.

Weeks 3-4: Apply a balanced fertilizer such as 6-12-12 to perennial beds when new growth

appears.

Weeks 3-4: Apply sulfur to the soils around acid-loving plants such as azaleas, rhododendrons,

hollies and dogwoods. Use a granular formulation at the rate of 1/2 pound per 100 square feet.

Week 4: Gradually start to pull back mulch from rose bushes.

Lawns

Weeks 1-4: Mow lawns low to remove old growth before new growth begins.

Weeks 2-4: Apply broadleaf herbicides now for control of cool-season perennial and annual

weeds. These must not be applied to areas that will be seeded soon.

Week 2: Apply controls for wild garlic. It will take several years of annual applications for

complete control.

Weeks 3-4: Thin spots and bare patches in the lawn can be over seeded now.

Vegetables

Weeks 1-4: Any root crops such as horseradish, parsnips, Jerusalem artichokes, or carrots still in

the ground from last year should be harvested before new green top growth appears.

Weeks 1-4: Cultivate weeds and remove the old, dead stalks of last year's growth from the

asparagus bed before the new spears emerge.

Weeks 1-4: Fertilize the garden as the soil is being prepared for planting. Unless directed

otherwise by a soil test, 1 to 2 pounds of 12-12-12 or an equivalent fertilizer per 100 square feet

is usually sufficient.

Weeks 1-2: Delay planting if the garden soil is too wet. When a ball of soil crumbles easily after

being squeezed together in your hand, it is dry enough to be safely worked.

Weeks 1-2: Asparagus and rhubarb roots should be planted as soon as the ground can be

worked.

Weeks 2-4: Plant peas, lettuce, radishes, kohlrabi, mustard greens, collards, turnips, Irish

potatoes, spinach and onions (seeds and sets) outdoors.

Weeks 3-4: Plant beets, carrots, parsley and parsnip seeds outdoors.

Weeks 3-4: Set out broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, Chinese cabbage and cauliflower

transplants into the garden.

Week 4: Start seeds of tomatoes, peppers and eggplants indoors.

Fruits

Weeks 1-4: Gradually remove mulch from strawberries as the weather begins to warm.

Weeks 1-3: Continue pruning apple trees. Burn or destroy all prunings to minimize insect or

disease occurrence.

Weeks 1-2: Continue pruning grapes. Bleeding causes no injury to the vines. Tie vines to the

trellis before the buds swell to prevent bud injury and crop loss.

Week 2: Cleft and splice grafting can be done now. Complete before rootstocks break dormancy.

Weeks 3-4: Aphids begin to hatch on fruit trees as the buds begin to open.

Weeks 3-4: Apply dormant oil sprays now. Choose a dry day when freezing temperatures are not

expected.

Weeks 3-4: Spray peach trees with a fungicide for the control of peach leaf curl disease.

Week 4: Mulch all bramble fruits for weed control.

Week 4: Peaches and nectarines should be pruned just before they bloom.

Miscellaneous

Week 1: Red maples begin to bloom.

Week 1: Set up nesting boxes for bluebirds.

Week 1: Watch for the harbinger of spring (Erigenia bulbosa) blooming in rich wooded areas.

Weeks 2-4: Spicebush is blooming in moist woodlands.

Week 2: Raise purple martin houses this week.

Week 3: Purple martins return to the St. Louis area.

Week 4: The white flowers of serviceberry (Amelanchier sp.) and wild plum (Prunus

americana) are showy in wooded areas.

Week 4: Watch for the fuzzy blooms of the pussy willow (Salix sp.).

How to replenish your soil for this year’s vegetable crop.

Well we all wonder from time to time about how to properly fertilize our gardens

and yards. The first way would to go to the extension office and get a soil testing kit and find out just what you really need to add if anything. Once you get that

established you are good to go. Now there are a few folks who just go by the seat of their britches, or hit and miss method. And they will say, “There is always next

year to fix it”. The following story is one that the individuals involved use tried and

true methods. But this is just a bit more involved than I choose to do. Look it over and make up your own mind.

The vegetable man, want to plant pumpkins in a small garden plow 25 ft. wide and

25 ft. long. This means he has a 25ft. X 25ft. =625 sq. ft. to fertilize. The vegetable man now called the pumpkin man check the chart and from previous

experience of natural losses , that he needs about 1.5 kg of nitrogen and 0.5 kg of phosphorus per 100 m square (3 lbs. N/100 sq. ft. and 1 lb. P/1000 sq. ft.).

Additional potassium is seldom required, but its level should be checked periodically with a soil test. Very sandy areas and peaty or high organic areas are

exceptions in that soils in these areas are often deficient in potassium.

The pumpkin man soil is silt loam with an excellent supply of organic matter, does not require additional potassium at this time.

The proper way to calculate the amount of fertilizer to apply is to divide the number of kilograms or pounds of nutrient required in 100 m squared or 1000 sq.

ft. y percentage of nutrient in the fertilizer.

Since the pumpkin man soil is slightly basic (high PH, he wants to use monoammmonium phosphate 11.55-0 and ammonium sulphate 21-00-00 which

are both acidic in nature. The pumpkin man starts by calculating how much phosphorus to apply.

1 lb. of phosphorus required 1.0 ---------------------------------- = ------ = 1.8 lbs. of 11-55-0 per 1000 sq. ft. 55%/100 0.55

Since the fertilizer 11-55-00 also supplies some nitrogen, the pumpkin man needs

to know how much actual nitrogen is in the 1.8 lbs. will be applying. He does this by multiplying (instead of dividing) the weight of nitrogen required by the

percentage of nitrogen in the 11-55-0.

1.8 lb. of 11-55-0 X 11%/100=1.8 X0.11=0.2 lbs. of nitrogen per 1000sq feet...

The pumpkin man wants to apply a total of 3 lb. of nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft.

Therefore, he must subtract the amount of nitrogen being applied in the 11-55-00.

3.0 lb. - 0.2 lbs. =2.8 lbs. of nitrogen still needed...

Now he can calculate how much 21-0-0 to apply...

2.8 lbs. of nitrogen required 2.8 ----------------------------------- = ----- = 13.3

lbs. of 21-0-0/1000 sq. ft. 21%/100 0.21

But the pumpkin man garden in not 1000 sq. ft. so less fertilizer is required to

bring nutrients back up to optimum levels. To calculate the right amounts of fertilizer, he divides the weight by 1000 sq. ft. and multiplies by his true area of

625 ft...

1.8 lb. of 11-55-0 --------------------- X 625 sq. ft. = 1.2 lb. of 11-55-0 1000sq ft. 13.3 lbs. of 21-0-0 ---------------------- X 625 sq. ft. = 8.3 lbs. of 21-00-00 1000

sq. ft.

All fertilizers should be applied as accurately as possible. Use a weight scale or a

measure cup to measure the fertilizer. It takes approximately 2.5 cups to measure a pound. The pumpkin man knew people would whine that he did not discuss

organic fertilizer instead. So...one day he saw house manure on sale at one of the garden centers. Its analysis id 0.6% N -0.2%P - 0.6%K. To compare this fertilizer,

he calculated the following...

3 pounds of N 3 ----------------- = --- = 500 lbs. of manure per 1000 sq. ft. 0.6%

/ 100 .006

500 lbs. / 1000 sq. ft. X 625 sq. ft. =312 pounds of manure for the garden...

Costs for this quantity of manure are many times greater than the chemical equivalent. Moreover, the manure is much more difficult to apply and incorporate.

Just another delicious sign of

Spring

I Told You Spring Was On The Way!!! See!!

Holy Smokes! What A Roma! Burpee has developed a brand new hybrid roma tomato called

“SuperSauce”. This, according to Burpee, is the largest sauce

tomato ever. It is a 70 day tomato. It is a whole lot bigger, a

whole lot better, a roma with aroma according to their

catalog. They go on to say it will weigh in at 2 lbs. and is

a whooping 5 ½ “ tall and 5” wide. It is easy to grow and

produces gallons of seedless sauce from a single plant. One

tomato fills an entire sauce jar. It is disease-free and produces

all summer long. It is an indeterminate – Go to www.Burpee.com.

for this tomato.

Ideal Companions for the Garden this year___________

One plant all vegetable gardens can benefit from is the marigold. These flowers are known to not only help vegetables

flourish, but their strong scented flowers repel insects and their roots prevent weeds from growing and kill harmful

parasitic worms that are known to destroy vegetables.

Peas and beans are good companions for any vegetable garden as they provide the soil with nitrogen for neighboring

plants to use.

Beans- Marigold, Sweetcorn, Squash Broccoli- Dill, Onions, Rosemary Brussels Sprouts - Dill, Rosemary, Potato Carrots- Leek, Onion, Tomato, Sage, Beans Cauliflower- Alfalfa.

Cucumber- Beans, Lettuce, Radish, Tomato Lettuce- Carrot, Radish, Strawberry, Kohlrabi, Beans Onion- Beet, lettuce, cabbage, strawberry Peas- Carrot, radish, corn, beans

And It Is Really Made of Fish Oil.

Who knew; I had a neighbor who bought a new pickup. I got up very early one Sunday

morning and saw that someone had spray painted red all around the sides of this beige

truck (for some unknown reason). I went over, woke him up, and told him the bad news.

He was very upset and was trying to figure out what to do... probably nothing until

Monday morning, since nothing was open. Another neighbor came out and told him to

get his WD-40 and clean it off. It removed the unwanted paint beautifully and did not

harm his paint job that was on the truck. I'm impressed!

WD-40 who knew? 'Water Displacement #40'. The product began from a search for a rust

preventative solvent and degreaser to protect missile parts. WD-40 was created in 1953

by three technicians at the San Diego Rocket Chemical Company. Its name comes from

the project that was to find a 'water displacement' compound. They were successful with

the fortieth formulation, thus WD-40. The Convair Company bought it in bulk to protect

their atlas missile parts. Ken East (one of the original founders) says there is nothing in

WD-40 that would hurt you. When you read the 'shower door' part, try it. It's the first

thing that has ever cleaned that spotty shower door. If yours is plastic, it works just as

well as glass. It's a miracle! Then try it on your stove top. Viola! It's now shinier than it's

ever been. You'll be amazed.

Here Are Some Of It’s Uses!

1. Protects silver from tarnishing.

2. Removes road tar and grime from cars. 3. Cleans and lubricates guitar strings.

4. Gives floors that 'just-waxed' sheen without making them slippery.

5. Keeps flies off cows. (I love this one!)

6. Restores and cleans chalkboards.

7. Removes lipstick stains.

8. loosens stubborn zippers.

9. Untangles jewelry chains.

10. Removes stains from stainless steel sinks.

11. Removes dirt and grime from the barbecue grill.

12. Keeps ceramic/terra cotta garden pots from oxidizing.

13. Removes tomato stains from clothing.

14. Keeps glass shower doors free of water spots.

15. Camouflages scratches in ceramic and marble floors.

16. Keeps scissors working smoothly.

17. Lubricates noisy door hinges on vehicles and doors in homes.

18. It removes black scuff marks from the kitchen floor! Use WD-40 for those nasty tars

and scuff marks on flooring. It doesn't seem to harm the finish and you won't have to

scrub nearly as hard to get them off. Just remember to open some windows if you have a

lot of marks.

19. Bug guts will eat away the finish on your car if not removed quickly! Use WD-40!

20. Gives a children's playground gym slide a shine for a super-fast slide.

21. Lubricates gear shift and mower deck lever for ease of handling on riding mowers...

22. Rids kids’ rocking chairs and swings of squeaky noises.

23. Lubricates tracks in sticking home windows and makes them easier to open.

24. Spraying an umbrella stem makes it easier to open and close. 25. Restores and cleans padded leather dashboards in vehicles, as well as vinyl bumpers.

26. Restores and cleans roof racks on vehicles.

27. Lubricates and stops squeaks in electric fans

28. Lubricates wheel sprockets on tricycles, wagons, and bicycles for easy handling.

29. Lubricates fan belts on washers and dryers and keeps them running smoothly.

30. Keeps rust from forming on saws and saw blades, and other tools.

31. Removes splattered grease on stove.

32. Keeps bathroom mirror from fogging.

33. Lubricates prosthetic limbs.

34. Keeps pigeons off the balcony (they hate the smell).

35. Removes all traces of duct tape.

36. Folks even spray it on their arms, hands, and knees to relieve arthritis pain.

37. Florida’s favorite use is: 'cleans and removes love bugs from grills and bumpers.'

38. The favorite use in the state of New York, WD-40 protects the Statue of Liberty from

the elements.

39. WD-40 attracts fish. Spray a little on live bait or lures and you will be catching the

big one in no time. Also, it's a lot cheaper than the chemical attractants that are made for

just that purpose. Keep in mind though, using some chemical laced baits or lures for

fishing are not allowed in some states.

40. Use it for fire ant bites. It takes the sting away immediately and stops the itch.

41. WD-40 is great for removing crayon from walls. Spray on the mark and wipe with a

clean rag.

42. Also, if you've discovered that your teenage daughter has washed and dried a tube of

lipstick with a load of laundry, saturate the lipstick spots with WD-40 and rewash. Presto!

The lipstick is gone!

43. If you sprayed WD-40 on the distributor cap, it would displace the moisture and

allow the car to start.

News Flash from our Ace Reporter “Maggie”

It is all about Impatiens – there will be NO garden impatiens this

Yes according to a report from Maggie Hill. Maggie received her

Information from a perennial seminar last week.

In Maggie’s words, “Please don’t kill the messenger” but one should make

Plans to use another annual this year.

Some good news is that the New Guinea variety has not been affected.

What has happened is that a fungus has invaded the impatiens, both plants and seeds. Once this spoor

invaded you flowers and flower bed it can take as long as 3 to 5 years to be rid of the fungus.

Now for you that like technical names, its name is Plasmopara Obducens – It is a downy mildew. And

can be spread through water and the air. – If your neighbors get it, you are probable doomed also.

If you want to learn more about this go to the internet and Google “fungus”.

Thanks Maggie for the heads up for I was headed right for the plants for my wife’s boxes. See all of

you on the 7th

at 6:30.

President

Pam Smith, 417-839-5610

psmith@durhamcompany.com

Vice President

Glennie Kinnett 417- 588-0198

GlennieKinnett03@gmail.com

Secretary

Barbara Thompson 417-533-8148

Treasurer

Maggie Hill, 417-588-9396

docmaggiemoo@gmail.com

Newsletter Editor

Robert “Bob” Smith III,

417-532-5783

onevol90@gmail.com

Master Gardeners of Laclede County

186-D N. Adams Ave.

Lebanon, Missouri 65536

Phone: 417-532-7126 • Fax: 417-532-4587

Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit.

Wisdom is not using it in a fruit salad

Just Keep Thinking Spring

Yard and Garden: Pruning Shrubs | BY RICHARD JAURON, WILLY KLEIN

AMES, Iowa — in a single motion, pruning demonstrates both the art and science of horticulture.

Perhaps that’s why so many homeowners get nervous and postpone or ignore the task. Horticulturists

with Iowa State University Extension and Outreach remove the mystery surrounding this routine

practice. To have additional questions answered contact the Iowa State University Hortline at

hortline@iastate.edu or 515-294-3108.

When should I prune my shrubs?

The proper time to prune deciduous and evergreen shrubs is determined by the plant’s growth habit,

bloom time and health or condition...

Spring-flowering shrubs, such as lilac and forsythia,

bloom in spring on the growth of the previous season.

The health or condition of the plants determines the

best time to prune spring-flowering shrubs.

Neglected, overgrown spring-flowering shrubs often

require extensive pruning to rejuvenate or renew the

plants. The best time to rejuvenate large, overgrown

shrubs is late winter or early spring (March or early

April). Heavy pruning in late winter or early spring will

reduce or eliminate the flower display for two or three

years. However, rejuvenation pruning will restore the

health of the shrub.

The best time to prune healthy, well-maintained spring-flowering shrubs is immediately after flowering

(healthy, well-maintained shrubs should require only light to moderate pruning). Pruning immediately

after flowering allows gardeners to enjoy the spring flower display and provides adequate time for the

shrubs to initiate new flower buds for next season.

Summer-flowering shrubs, such as potentilla and Japanese spirea, bloom in summer on the current

year’s growth. Prune summer-flowering shrubs in late winter or early spring. The new growth produced

by pruned shrubs will bloom in summer.

Some deciduous shrubs don’t produce attractive flowers. These shrubs may possess colorful bark, fruit

or foliage. Prune these shrubs in late winter or early spring before growth begins.

Prune evergreen shrubs, such as juniper and yew, in early to mid-April before new growth begins. Light

pruning may also be done in mid-summer.

What is the best way to prune large, overgrown shrubs?

Proper pruning can renew or rejuvenate overgrown, deciduous shrubs. One option is to prune the

shrubs back over a three year period. Begin by removing one-third of the largest, oldest stems at

ground level in late winter/early spring (March or early April). The following year (again in March or

early April), prune out one-half of the remaining old stems. Also, thin out some of the new growth.

Retain several well-spaced, vigorous, new shoots and remove all of the others. Finally, remove all of

the remaining old wood in late winter/early spring of the third year. Additional thinning of new shoots

should also be done.

A second way to prune overgrown, deciduous shrubs is to cut the shrubs back to within 4 to 6 inches of

the ground in March or early April. This type of pruning induces shrubs to produce a large number of

new shoots. The new shoots grow rapidly and may be several feet tall by the end of summer. In late

winter of the following year, select and retain several strong, healthy shoots and remove all others at

ground level. Head (cut) back the retained shoots to encourage branching. Overgrown lilacs,

dogwoods, privets and forsythias may be pruned in this manner. Most lilacs rejuvenated by this method

will not bloom for two or three years. This method is also an excellent way to renew scraggly potentillas

and summer-flowering spireas. For best performance, potentillas should be cut back to within 3 to 4

inches of the ground about every three years.

Classes with our Neighbors to the North

Tomato Grafting & Pest Management – March 12th

AMES, Iowa – Grafting tomatoes is centuries old and it has come to the forefront in the past decade for several reasons. Grafting can be used successfully to manage soil borne diseases and improve yields in both hybrid and heirloom tomatoes. Growers also are interested in learning about grafting tomatoes for yield improvement and disease management.

Iowa State University Extension and Outreach will conduct a tomato grafting and pest management workshop on Tuesday, March 12, at Reiman Gardens in Ames. Presenters at the workshop are Ajay Nair, extension horticulturist, and Laura Jesse and Erika Saalau-Rojas, pathologists with the Iowa State Plant and Insect Diagnostic Lab. The workshop will begin with a 9:30 a.m. registration and conclude at 2:30 p.m. Nair’s grafting presentation starts at 10 a.m. The workshop is co-sponsored by The Leopold Center for Sustainable Agriculture and Practical Farmers of Iowa.

Workshop participants will learn about proper techniques of grafting and handling of grafted plants, and how to manage insect pests and diseases in tomato plantings. Live samples will be available to learn how to identify pests and disease, and their symptoms. Master gardeners, home gardeners and commercial vegetable growers will find this hands-on grafting and pest management experience beneficial.

To register go to http://tomatografting.eventbrite.com. Registration is $35 per person. Register by March 10 as seats are limited. For more information on the event please contact Dr. Ajay Nair at nairajay@iastate.edu or 515-294-7080.