Squid with Chilli and Garlic Dipping SauceServes 4 (as a light starter to share or with drinks)

2 x 175-200g whole prepared squid, cleaned and patted dry

2 heaped tsp Szechuan peppercorns (also known as sichuan pepper)

2 heaped tsp black peppercorns

½ tsp dried chilli flakes

1 tbsp flaked sea salt

5 tbsp self-raising flour

5 tbsp cornflour

Sunflower oil for frying

For the dipping sauce

100g caster sugar

50ml water

2 tbsp white wine vinegar

1 long red chilli, finely chopped (deseed first if you like)

2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

15g piece fresh root ginger, peeled and finely chopped

1 tbsp chopped fresh coriander

FOOD FACTS Related to the octopus and the cuttlefish,

the squid is found in all oceans and seas, apart from the Black Sea. It has become familiar to us through foreign travel and Italian and Greek restaurants. The squid produces black ink, which is used in squid stews and to colour pasta.

The first known people to have extracted salt in Britain were the Iron Age Celts, from around 600 BC. Salt was extracted from sea water, with workings the length of the British East Coast. Today there are two areas known for their sea salt in Britain, Maldon in Essex and Anglesey.

Historical facts provided by Monica Askay, Cook and Food Historian

①To make the dipping sauce, put the sugar, water and 1 tbsp of the vinegar in a small saucepan and gently heat until the sugar dissolves, stirring constantly. Bring to the boil and cook for 1 minute. Add the chilli, garlic and ginger and cook for 1 minute more, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat, stir in the remaining vinegar and leave to cool.

②Cut the squid cones up one side and open out. Score the inside of the cone in a criss cross pattern with the tip of a knife, working diagonally across the flesh. Cut the tentacles into quarters. Set aside. Cutting the squid into ribbons rather than rings means it will fry into lovely scoop shapes that are ideal for dipping.

③Put the peppercorns, chilli flakes and salt in a small pan and heat gently until you can smell the peppery aromas – this will help release the flavour. Tip into a pestle and mortar and pound hard until roughly the texture of freshly ground black pepper.

④Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in the self-raising flour and cornflour. Drop the squid into the bowl and toss together until the squid is well coated with the spiced flour. Set aside while the oil is heating. Stir the coriander into the cooled dipping sauce and pour into a small bowl set on a large plate or small serving platter.

⑤Pour 2cm of sunflower oil into a medium saucepan and place over a medium high heat. Put a cooking thermometer in the pan and heat the oil to 180C/350F. (Do not allow the oil to overheat. Do not leave hot oil unattended.) Alternatively, use an electric deep fat fryer to cook the squid.

⑥When the oil reaches the right temperature, use tongs to drop a few pieces of the squid into the pan. You will need to cook it in three or four batches. Add the squid a piece at a time, so it doesn’t immediately clump together and fry for 1-2 minutes until pale golden brown and crisp.

⑦Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Don’t be tempted to stir the squid in the pan as not only is it dangerous but you can also knock off the lovely spiced coating. As soon as one batch is cooked, wait for the oil to get back to the right temperature and cook the next.

⑧When all the squid is fried, transfer to the platter with the dipping sauce and serve. (If the squid is allowed to cool, it will go soggy.)

FOOD FACTS Salt was needed to add flavour to bland

cereals and as a preservative for meat and fish. From the medieval period, the preferred salt for preserving was Bay Salt, from the Atlantic coasts of France, Northern Spain and Portugal.

The pepper most widely used in the medieval period was the hot and pungent Long Pepper, which resembles a hard black hazel catkin (a narrow flower cluster that’s shaped like a cylinder). It fell out of favour in the late 16th century probably because of competition from the chilli, newly discovered in the New World.

Historical facts provided by Monica Askay, Cook and Food Historian