standard online quilt magazine – vol. 4 no. 10 online ... · fashionable and i have to say very...
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Standard Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 4 No. 10
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 1
Online Quilt Magazine.com
Standard Issue Vol.4 No.10 – October 2013
Experience the
Outer Hebrides
and a Love Affair
With Tweed
How to
Create
Stained
Glass Quilts
Tips for
Making 3D
Quilts
PROJECT –
Harris Tweed
Bag
Standard Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 4 No. 10
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 2
Online Quilt Magazine Table of Contents
Outer Hebrides and a Love Affair With Tweed ….………………………………….…………..……………………….………………………………………….. Page 4
PROJECT – Harris Tweed Bag ……….…………….……………….……...…………….…..………………………………………………………….…….……………… Page 9
How To Create Stained Glass Quilts …………….………………………………………………………………………………………………..……………….……… Page 15
What’s New From The Fat Quarter Shop …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
Tips For Making 3D Quilts ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..
Book Review – “Colorific” by Pam Goecke Dinndorf …….………………………….………………………………..………………………..…….……………
Page 18
Page 20
Page 23
Reader “Show and Tell” ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….…….…………...…..
BLOCK OF THE MONTH – Album Block III …………….……..……………................................................................................................
Page 25
Page 28
Today's Tips.................................................................................................................................................................................. Page 31
YES – We Want To hear From You............................................................................................................................................... Page 32
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Standard Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 4 No. 10
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Letter from the Editor
Jody Anderson
Hi!
Well, here in Australia, it’s school holidays – AGAIN, and Master 9 and Miss 7 are home for a couple of
weeks. Last holidays we started their first quilting projects (I’m trying to be a good quilting Mum) with
simple 6 inch pieced squares, and we got about halfway through before they went back to school.
Well those projects are now on my pile of UFO’s and when I asked if they'd like to finish piecing them this
week, and they came back with "If we finish our quilts, then you have to let us play the ipad/iphone
whenever we want to." What??? Quilt blackmail??? I don't think so! I don't negotiate with underage
blackmail wannabes - might just kick them outside and tell them to go climb a tree instead!
So they’ve been playing outside, and I’ve been playing inside with some future projects for this magazine!
This month, there’s a new Harris Tweed bag project from Chris, and Penny looks at adding that third
dimension to your quilts. There’s heaps more too –interesting articles and even new fabrics to drool over
too.
Grab a coffee, put your feet up and check it all out!
Have a great month!
Jody
Standard Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 4 No. 10
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 4
For a textile artist all fabric has its allure, but to
me tweed is the ‘wonderstuff’, and none more so
than that woven on the Isle of Harris. Come with
me and I will explain the appeal……….
The Isle of Harris lies off the western tip of
Scotland and is a land of sharp contrasts, white
sands and the allure of the machair or wild flower
meadows in the summer, when the sun hardly
sets and the ‘summerdin’ means that even in the
middle of the night the land is lit with a soft
golden light.
You can sit out doors and read the newspaper at
one in the morning if it takes your fancy. The
autumn holds the chance of seeing the Northern
lights, and yes you can still smell the evocative
smell of peat smoke as it drifts across the land.
The winter sees tremendous seas and storms that
fair blow your socks off. The townships or small
groups of houses are scattered across the
landscape and everywhere there are the small
sheep that are so at home here.
Outer Hebrides and a Love Affair with Tweed
By Chris Hammacott from www.myrtleandmoor.com
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Harris Tweed cloth has been woven for hundreds
of years originally as welcome extra work for the
crofters, as a loom could fit in a small barn and
sheep were a plenty.
The stout cloth was the perfect wear for a day
stalking or shooting, the soft naturally dyed cloth
blended perfectly with the moorland and heather
clad hills.
Many a gentleman handed down his Harris
Tweed hunting jacket to his oldest son along with
gout and a weakness for showgirls. The fabric was
and is still known for its wearing ability and its
ability to shrug off just about everything.
It is true that to set the cloth it did used to be
steeped in urine and most crofts had a ‘pee tub’
out the back where men would visit, and the
cloth (especially when wet) would hold
something of a hint. Now of course this is long
gone, but it does say something of the self-
sufficiency of the weavers!
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Standard Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 4 No. 10
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To be Harris Tweed and carry the “Orb” mark it
has to be woven on a croft on the Isles of Harris
or Lewis (Lewis is attached to Harris and is the
North end of the island). The loom must be hand
operated and no crofter can have more than two
looms although in fact most only have the one.
The main mills deliver the thread and the
weavers work to a pattern and swatch and the
woven fabric ready for finishing is collected from
the croft gate.
For many years the cloth was falling into decline,
out of fashion and people no longer wanted to
work the looms and the land and crofts were sold
off and the curse of the holiday home was
evident.
Recently however Harris Tweed has seen a huge
upsurge, from that famous corset from Vivian
Westwood to Matt Smith’s jacket that he wears
as Dr Who, suddenly Harris Tweed is THE fashion
fabric. This year saw it on all the major fashion
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weeks, and the interest has brought new colours
and patterns to the weavers.
Designers always on the lookout for something
different have embraced the fabric - in Edinburgh
a whole new breed of kilt is being made,
fashionable and I have to say very alluring on the
right pair of legs!
Home furnishings are fantastic in tweed, cushions
as well as furnishing fabric and if you have never
seen a Harris Tweed upholstered wing back chair
you have never seen anything more stylish.
I feel that the tweed is underused for patchwork
and quilting, it responds beautifully to stitch
either machine or by hand, appliqué works well
and cushions and table runners are a wonderful
way to showcase the fabric if you feel a quilt
might be a little too much.
Go on grasp a little Scottish history……………
About the Author: Chris and her husband live on the Isle of
Lewis on a small croft in the Outer Hebrides. As she says
”We are still learning the crofting way of living, we cut peat
Harris Tweed Kits
This kit was designed and made on the Isle
of Lewis, and includes all you need to
complete the perfect tweed bag.
For a fantastic collection of stunning
original Harris Tweed bag kits, visit
www.myrtleandmoor.com
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in the spring and burn it in the winter, the eggs from the
hens are sold locally and we spend time working with
textiles and enjoying the life, not bad for an ex city girl and
her chap!
I teach textiles and write a regular column for British
Patchwork and Quilting magazine as well as the online Quilt
Pattern magazine. We have a weaving shed and have
recently managed to find a Hattersley Tweed loom and with
luck getting that up and weaving will feature in the blog.”
www.myrtleandmoor.com
Keep up to Date with What’s Happening on our
Facebook Page – Do You Love Quilting Too?
Bonus blocks, hints and tips added all the time!!
http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Do-
You-Love-Quilting-Too/271888039492644
"Achieve Machine Quilting Perfection
on Every Quilt You Make . . .
While Learning How
How to Make the Most of Fat Quarters,
Fabric Scraps, and Fabric From the
Bolt"
Machine quilting made easy!
Your friends and family will be amazed to see what
you can do with small bits of fabric, whether they
come from brand new fat quarters or cut up shirts
from the thrift shop.
http://www.how-to-
quilt.com/machinequiltingperfection.php
Standard Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 4 No. 10
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Project – Harris Tweed Bag
From Chris Hammacott at www.myrtleandmoor.com
We keep hens and ducks on our small croft in the Outer
Hebrides as well as sheep and goats; in fact it is one of the
sheep Myrtle who has been the inspiration for the
appliqué on this bag. She is a Scottish Blackface who was
hand reared. It has made her very confident and I have to
admit nosy! Leave a door open for a moment and she is in,
and more than once I have found her sharing the basket
next to the stove with my 5 pug dogs, she is just that type
of girl.
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The wee bird takes its inspiration from our
summer resident Corncrake. This very
endangered little soul nests every summer on the
croft and keeps us awake most nights with its
infuriating call. I can only compare it with
someone repeatedly running a fingernail up and
down a plastic comb!
Materials:
* Harris Tweed fabric measuring 29 X 77 cms
(11.6 x 30.8 inches)
* Scraps of tweed for the appliqué
* Harris Tweed fabric for strap 8 cms (3.2 inches)
wide by your own choice of length
* Button and sequins and a small amount of
embroidery threads
* Piece wadding (batting) measuring 29 X 77 cms
(11.6 x 30.8 inches)
* Piece backing fabric measuring 29 X 77 cms
(11.6 x 30.8 inches)
* Lining fabric measuring 29 X 77 cms (11.6 x 30.8
inches)
* Large button
Getting started:
Layer the Harris Tweed, wadding and backing
fabric to make a ‘quilt sandwich’ as shown below.
Using the templates provided separately, cut the
shapes for Myrtle and Moor as pictured,
remember they need to be on the lower third of
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the fabric as they need to appear on the flap, play
about and get them positioned in a way you like.
Myrtle can have very different expressions by the
way you angle her head. Pin in place.
Pin the three layers together, or tack if you
prefer.
Now the creative bit! Stitch down the appliqué
shapes. You can blanket stitch in place by hand
with embroidery threads, (2 strands are best), or
machine stitch in a zig zag , whatever you prefer.
The lovely thing about appliqué with Harris
Tweed is that it stays put and does not need
bonding down.
As shown below, when the shapes have been
appliqued in place, add the Moor’s tail feathers
legs and eye, and Myrtle’s legs. Use sequins or
small buttons for the eyes. Yours, I am sure, will
look different but equally good.
Once you are happy with the appliqué the rest of
the bag needs to be quilted. I generally simply
stitch a running stitch across the width of the bag
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along the tweed lines. You can of course quilt the
layers any way you like, and remember the more
stitching the firmer your bag will be.
With right sides uppermost fold as seen in the
picture opposite, you should fold 10 inches up,
making the bag pouch. Pin in place and then
stitch both sides. Now turn the bag right sides
out.
Take the lining fabric, and fold and stitch in the
same way.
Put aside as we now need to make the strap.
Take the long strip of Harris Tweed, and adjust
the length to suit your preference, whether you
like a bag to go across your body or just over the
shoulder.
Hem the strip by working along the length. Fold
both edges into the centre and then fold both
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sides together and topstitch down with a small
stitch so the strap is secure.
Pin the strap in place.
Keeping the Harris Tweed bag right sides out, slip
the lining over the bag with the lining right sides
in, pin all the way around. Notice that the Flap is
also pinned.
Stitch all the way around including along the edge
of the flap; ensure that you are catching down all
the layers.
Once stitched trim off any excess fabric and/or
wadding (batting).
Make a small slit in the stitching on the side of
the lining no more than 5 inches in length. This is
the good bit! Pull the bag through the lining slit,
keep gentle pulling until all the bag with the flap
has emerged. Check all the seams to ensure that
you have secured all the fabric, and then if happy
(hopefully) stitch up the slit in the lining.
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(Alternatively, leave most of the middle of one
side of the lining unsewn to turn bag through
before tucking in the seam allowances and
topstitching the side gap closed.)
For a professional finish, topstitch around the
edge of the flap about half an inch in.
Now all that is left is the button and tab for the
fastening and you have a beautiful bag.
Take a 4cm (1 ½ inch) strip of tweed fabric long
enough to suit your selected button and fold the
edges in to meet each other in the centre, down
the length of the strip. Fold the strip in half and
topstitch along both sides to finish.
Position the button as seen on the completed bag
and the tab is simply stitched to the edge of the
flap.
I hope you are delighted with your bag, and do
remember we have other designs and Kits for
this, and other projects on our website
www.myrtleandmoor.com
Standard Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 4 No. 10
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One of the joys of quilting is being able to spend
your craft time doing various styles or types of
quilts.
You may have noticed that stained glass quilts are
growing in popularity. These look complex to
create but following some simple guidelines will
have you mastering this part of quilting in no
time!
You will need to select your pattern for the
project. If you haven’t made one before, it may
be best to actually use a pattern that is
specifically for stained glass quilts for beginners.
There are many different types and colors of
fabrics to select from when making stained glass
quilts. It is best to use fabrics that do not have
fine details and patterns within them since you
want the finished product to look like a piece of
stained glass. Many people find that Muslin
fabrics work well for the foundation fabric.
Once you've selected the pattern, position it in
the middle of a 10" x 8" piece of woven fusible
How To Create Stained Glass Quilts
By Jan Myers from www.QuiltingResourceCenter.com
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interfacing. It is best to avoid the fusible web
because it can tend to make your project too stiff.
Trace just the design without the numbers onto
the fusible area of the interfacing.
Get a large piece of wax or freezer paper that will
fit the design. Trace the design onto the paper,
again without numbers.
Using sharp scissors, you will need to cut the
design out following the lines you just traced
onto the paper.
Place all the appropriate freezer paper pieces on
the different color fabrics. Make sure to place
with the shiny side of the paper down.
Iron the sections onto the fabric. You will then
need to cut the design pieces out leaving a 1/16"
additional edge border around each piece. Don't
cut the pieces flush or you will not have enough
to go under the ‘lead’ overlay fabric.
Now that all your pieces are cut, you will need to
remove the paper backing. Place the patches on
the fusible area of the interfacing. You will want
to use the traced out lines for positioning.
Partly overlie the appliqué sections a little. You
do not want to leave any openings. Once this is
complete, you can use a pressing sheet to iron
the appliqué sections to the interfacing.
Make sure to check the manufacturer's
instructions when doing this part of the process
for this part of your stained glass quilts.
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Set the pieces out and pin them onto the
foundation fabric. It is recommended to baste
around them so that the pieces will not shift
when you sew on the bias tape later.
You now need to cover the edges of the applique
pieces with bias tape so that the edges of the
tape completely cover with the other sections
that are laid down.
Use thread that matches the bias tape to stitch
along each side of the tape. Use the backstitch to
lock the starting and ending portions of the bias
tape. Be certain to trim the thread ends close to
the surface for a neater appearance on your
stained glass quilts.
You are almost completed with your project. Cut
away the extra foundation fabric and continue to
add the other pieces.
A nice addition is to add additional bias to the
border pieces. With stained glass quilts, you will
have ‘leading’ at any area the glass is a different
color or piece.
It is important to quilt on both areas for the bias
‘leading’ in order to make it extra noticeable.
Following these general guidelines should have
you creating beautiful stained glass quilts with
confidence.
About the Author: Jan Myers is the author of numerous
articles and books on topics from organizational
development and leadership to quilting. It was her
avocation, the love of quilting, that inspired the popular
online membership site for quilters known as the “world’s
largest quilting bee” at
http://www.QuiltingResourceCenter.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jan_Myers
Standard Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 4 No. 10
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We're pleased to be able to bring you a selection
each month of the Newest Fabric Releases and
the new season fabric "must haves".
Billet-Doux by Verna Mosquera for Free Spirit
Fabrics
Enter a world of Parisian charm with Billet-Doux
by Verna Mosquera.
Bursting florals in soft, vintage inspired colors will
soothe your soul and inspire your creativity.
Check it out at:
http://www.fatquartershop.com/Billet-Doux-Verna-
Mosquera-Free-Spirit-Fabrics.asp
What's New from The Fat Quarter Shop
From Kimberly Jolly at www.FatQuarterShop.com
LUDLOW QUILT AND SEW
Discover new and exciting projects to quilt and
sew each month with clear and easy to follow
instructions.
Visit our website and subscribe to Ludlow
Quilt and Sew’s free monthly newsletter now.
www.ludlowquiltandsew.co.uk
Standard Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 4 No. 10
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Love Collections for a Cause
Love Collections for a Cause is a gorgeous
reproduction collection boasting warm tones and
versatile, small prints inspired by an antique quilt
from Howard Marcus Dunn’s personal collection.
Supporting the St. Jude’s Children’s Research
Hospital, this collection is both stunning and
charitable.
See more at:
http://www.fatquartershop.com/Love-Howard-
Marcus-Moda-Fabrics.asp
Bobbins and Bits by Pat Sloan for Moda Fabrics
Bobbins and Bits celebrates all things sewing in
bright, happy colors. Pat Sloan’s obsession with
scissors, bobbins, and all of the little bits that go
along with sewing are seen throughout the
collection. With a fun mix of batiks and cottons,
Bobbins and Bits is perfect for everyone!
For more, go to:
http://www.fatquartershop.com/Bobbins-and-Bits-
Pat-Sloan-Moda-Fabrics.asp
Standard Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 4 No. 10
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It doesn’t take more than a quick glance at the
posters hanging at your area movie theater to
know that 3D is “in.”
You, as a quilter, can also jump on the 3D
bandwagon. If you are making a summer
appliqué quilt, consider making it 3D. No special
instructions are necessary. Just think outside the
quilt block to contrive your special 3D effects.
Flowers become very easy dimensional quilt
elements. Cut two of each of the petals you
would have stitched directly to your quilt top.
Sew the petals together, right sides facing but
leave the end toward the center part of the
flower open. Turn the petal right side out, add a
little stuffing and whip stitch the open end to
close.
Tips for Making 3D Quilts
By Penny Halgren from www.How-To-Quilt.com
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When you add the petals to the top of your quilt,
stitch only at the center of the flower (and maybe
a couple of stitches up each side for added
stability).
Another way to add subtle dimension is to add a
layer of batting between your appliqué and quilt
top. If you are using a sewing machine to
appliqué, cut your batting just a little smaller than
the appliqué. Sandwich the batting between your
quilt top and appliqué, use a nice satin stitch and
you have created a faux trapunto element.
You can also use batting beneath your appliqué if
you are using an embroidery machine to make
your quilt appliqués. Once you have hooped your
quilt top, lay a piece of batting then your
appliqué fabric on top. Once your embroidery
machine has outlined the appliqué, stop the
stitching and remove the hoop from the machine.
Do not take the fabric out of the hoop now!
Gently fold back the top layer of fabric so you can
easily see the batting. Trim very close to the
stitched outline. Then, trim the top appliqué
fabric. Return the hoop to the machine and let it
finish out the appliqué with a satin stitch. If you
want to use a zigzag or button hole stitch, be sure
to trim the batting so that it is well beneath the
fabric. You don’t want batting peeking out of your
appliqué! The Moon and Star quilt block has
batting added to the appliquéd circle in the
center to add dimension.
Another fun idea is to layer your appliqué then
“rag” it. Layer flannel or other easy fray fabrics
underneath your appliqué piece. Instead of
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trimming close to your outline seam, trim 1/8 to
¼ inch away from it. Make vertical snips up to
your seam line all around the appliqué. When you
wash and dry the quilt, this area will fray and will
become a fluffy, dimensional border to your
appliqué.
Another way to add dimension is to “pleat” your
quilt. In the rainbow quilt shown, strips made
with gray fabric and white fabric were added
between the rainbow sections to create a vertical
blind affect.
Adding buttons and charms is a simple way to
add 3D elements to your quilt projects. Spend a
few hours browsing your favorite craft and fabric
stores for ideas and inspiration. Experiment and
have fun!
About the Author: Penny Halgren is a quilter of more
than 27 years, and enjoys sharing her love of quilting
with others. Sign up for her free quilting tips, quilt
patterns, and newsletter at http://www.How-to-
Quilt.com
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“Colorific: Unlock the Secrets of Fabric Selection
for Dynamic Quilts” by Pam Goecke Dinndorf
When Kaffe Fassett writes a glowing foreword to
a book, you know it will be a good one. He
speaks of sophisticated colour schemes and
"down-home earthiness that rarely fails to
inspire."
Pam Dinndorf has designed quilt patterns that
will inspire and delight you. She will give you
confidence to use the colour wheel to create
vibrant and bold quilts.
The six quilts in the book are photographed
against backgrounds of almost monochrome
rocks and silver birch trees, which displays the
colours to great advantage.
Pam will show you how to choose those few
colours from your stash to produce really
effective work. Beginner quilters could make
these quilts as the appeal is in the colours chosen
Book Review
By Annette Mira-Bateman from www.QuiltBlockoftheMonthClub.com
Standard Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 4 No. 10
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rather than complicated piecing.
Flat, boring quilts will be a thing of the past if you
read and understand Pam's simple explanations
on the use of colour, value and texture.
The main thrust of this book is to teach quilters
how to use colours and textures to greatest
advantage when designing a new quilt.
The six patterns will demonstrate this advice and
Pam even includes the basics of finishing and
quilting a quilt so you have all you need in the
one book. Well worth having on your library
shelf.
This book is published by C & T Publishing and
also available from Amazon.
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This month we continue our regular segment of
“Show and Tell” quilts made by our Online Quilt
Magazine Readers. It’s been another busy month
too!
We will include them as long as you can send
them to us, and that way we can all share in the
wealth of creativity and inspiration abundant
within our quilting community.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“Hi here is the quilt I made from the Quilt Block of
the Month Club for my grandson for Christmas
last year. I was very pleased with it. Yes my
grandson loved it, even though he is 15yrs old and
pretended he didn’t want a quilt until he saw it.
He is of Aboriginal descent. Instead of the two
hands I traced around my grandaughter’s hand
(sister of recipient) my hand, Pa's hand and
Uncles hand to make it more personal for him.”
- Gwen B., Australia
Reader “Show and Tell”
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(Kangaroo detail below)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“My last quilts that I made : One for the “Fall” (in
Belgium), and one for a friend who as a bakery :
Cupcakes.
The Fall or Autumn in Belgium will say: rain,
falling leaves, nuts and squirrels, melon, a bunch
of grapes, apple and pears. I believe it is
something else in Australia! “
- Jacqueline B., Belgium
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October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month,
and we encourage you to do what you can to
support this.
If you haven’t yet made some Breast Cancer
Bags, or if you’ve lost the pattern and need it
again, please go to www.Quilts-n-Bags.com and
you can get it on the RHS.
Literally just this week I had an email from one
of our UK readers and she said “I have just had
breast surgery and would have been very glad
of one of these bags as I wasn't even given a
pillowcase to bring mine home in!”
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This month’s block is based on one of the
Traditional style album blocks, where quilters
would each make a sign a different block for a
friendship quilt. Use this block as is, or substitute
another coloured or patterned strip in the centre
instead of the white autograph strip. To make
this 9 inch block as shown, you will need 4
different fabrics, and once you have rotary cut
the pieces according to the Cutting Diagram, you
can piece them together as shown.
Block of the Month
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Standard Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 4 No. 10
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 30
Standard Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 4 No. 10
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 31
Today’s Tips:
Rod Pockets or Hanging Sleeves are supposed to
be fixed to the back of each quilt you make. The
only exceptions are cot quilts or knee rugs which
you are immediately giving away and which may
have a reversible use. Otherwise quite a wide
sleeve is stitched at the top of the back, just
below the binding.
Always allow for a wide rod just in case. Finish the
pocket about 1" in from the edge of the binding,
then the hooks can be hidden away if you are
hanging it on the wall. If it's a smaller
wallhanging quilt, then you can always attach two
1/2 width rod pockets, so you have a gap in the
middle to hang the rod over a hook on your wall.
If you make this sleeve from the same material as
the backing, it is almost invisible anyway and
should lie flat against the quilt. Another great tip
is to make the rod pocket from the left over
scraps of fabric from your quilt top - this way if
you ever need to make any small repairs to the
top of your quilt, you have will always have some
matching fabric to hand!
And since we're talking about Shows, remember
too - as a general rule - if you're planning on
entering your quilt in a Show, the standard rod
pocket width is about 4 inches, but be sure to
double check each Show's Entry rules separately
that you're planning on entering.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
• If your foot pedal keeps sliding out of reach
from the continuous pressure of quilting, put a
non-skid carpet pad under it.
• Use a self-threading hand sewing needle to
embed thread tails into the quilt sandwich after
tying off.
Please keep your handy “quilty” hints
and tips coming too – We’re always on
the lookout for great new ideas to
share!
Standard Online Quilt Magazine – Vol. 4 No. 10
© Online Quilt Magazine.com All Rights Reserved P a g e | 32
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"Quilt-y" Quote…
* A messy house is the sign of a happy
quilter
* A family stitched together with love,
seldom unravels
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material witnesses.