start-stop-reset: 88 epic stainless steel chronographs [catalogue]

Auction, Geneva, Hotel La Rserve, 14 May 2016

88 EpicStainless Steel Chronographs

STARTSTOPRESET

Pag_1-19_ASTAtematica_inizio.qxp_Layout 1 29/03/16 16:52 Pagina 1

STARTSTOPRESET

Auction, Geneva, Hotel La Rserve, 14 May 2016

STARTSTOPRESET

88 Epic Stainless Steel Chronographs

pucci papaleo editions

O ver the centuries, the worlds most ingeniouswatchmakers and engineers have graced uswith dazzling and bewildering complications.May these complications enhance precision such astourbillons, offer an acoustic delight such as minuterepeaters or squeeze the cosmos into rotating pinionsand gears such as perpetual calendars and moon phases,few are at the same time speaking to the hiddenadventurer within us, action loaded and visible as thechronograph. From the Greek chronos meaning time and graphmeaning to write, the chronograph measures and recordstime intervals stated in seconds (and sometimes evenless), minutes and/or hours. However, the chronograph also embodies one ofmankinds greatest yet unattainable dreams that tocontrol and stop time. However, what it does allow is tofreeze a moment, preserve it for posterity and to lookback with consideration. It is of no surprise that doctors, scientists, sportsmenand members of the armed forces have relied on theirtrusty chronographs in the course of their daily lives,their successes (and sometimes failures) recorded bytheir timepiece. Where life does not offer the possibilityto stop time it does sometimes offer a second chanceand as with chronographs to reset and start again. Asecond opportunity to overcome a failure, to repeat asuccess and sometimes, to break a new record. Thus thename of this thematic auction: START-STOP-RESET. Rome, January 2016. During a dinner with PucciPapaleo we started discussing a thematic sale focussingon tool watches, those most likely to have been used inaction loaded, rough and exciting environments and bydessert the theme of stainless steel chronographwristwatches, the date of the auction, the scope and

responsibilities were decided upon! Curating this salewas a fascinating journey for the specialists at PhillipsWatches. A true team effort shared with our friend PucciPapaleo whom, after the Glamorous Day-Date auction,needs no further introduction. The team includes AndreaFof who kindly shared his encyclopaedic knowledgeand prepared many of the watches for photography,Fabio Santinelli, whom many consider the worlds mosttalented photographer of watches, supported by Gino LaBella for image management, Paolo Gobbi, an extremelytalented contributing writer and nally Naomi Ornsteinas general coordinator and believe me, the need for acoordinator was vital! Choosing is renouncing and we had to regretfullyrefuse highly interesting pieces that either did not meetour extremely stringent quality criteria or duplicatedanother consigned piece. We wanted to offer you thebroadest variety in terms of brands, styles and period andeach model needed to tell a captivating story. The resultbeing a catalogue reuniting over 80 classic, legendary,rare and attractive examples from the worlds mostprominent chronograph makers. Being chronographs aside, all the timepieces shownin this catalogue have in common that they are not onlytechnically and visually stimulating but are historicallyrelevant, having survived in amazing original condition,decades after they left the workshops and happilyaccompanied their wearers, may they have beensportsmen, doctors or members of the armed forces. We sincerely hope you enjoy this journey through20th century watchmaking and that we will be able towelcome you personally to one of our previewexhibitions or in Geneva for the auction and maybe oneof the chronographs in this auction will enable you tostart, stop and reset your own story.

Stopping Time

by Aurel Bacs and Sam Hines

W hat if everything that happens in our lifewas already written following a precisepredetermined path? If everything we felt andthought was already established, then emotions wouldlikely be the rst to fade away. Just imagine and shiver for a moment living in a world where cars areconceived only as modes of transport, clothes anoptional necessity, and watches are used just to tell time.If so, daily life would denitely be sad and dull. It wouldbe a life without any motivation, without that drive tounravel, admire or seek. Luckily, it is not our world. The world we live in is made of energy, vitality,curiosity, research, but above all adrenaline. That shotof adrenaline you experience when you discover a newreason to enjoy your lifes passion or when you comeacross the object you have pined over and that haseluded you for so long. But even when you nally getyour hands on it, the quest will not end there. Which isactually what makes the pursuit all the moreworthwhile. And, when it comes to coveted timepiecesthere are those that capture the collective imaginationbecause of what they represent, there are those thatdrive headlines because of the awesome prices theyreap, then there are those that captivate because of theirplace in history. In the world of watch collecting the chronographindisputably represents the adrenaline instrument parexcellence. This extraordinary complication, capable of

recording an accurate elapsed time, is still todayconsidered a big favourite by a constantly growingnumber of collectors and acionados. Much creditshould certainly go to the distinguishing supplementaryindications, to the subsidiary registers that render thedial ever so complex and lastly, to the push-pieces thatgive a twist to the silhouette. In our modern digitalworld some of these features have arguable utility.Nevertheless, we still enjoy them for the sheer love ofcomplicated things. The chronograph soon became the perfect gentlemantimepiece and stainless steel the material of choice.Undeniably, it has become one of the most recognizablearchetypes in watchmaking. In fact, entire generations ofcollectors and enthusiasts have dreamt to ash thiscomplicated watch on their wrists. Many are those whohave patiently waited, yearned, saved money, or haveeven given a nod to the investment aspect, just tosucceed in purchasing that one perfect chronograph. The intention of START-STOP-RESET is indeed toattain such a result. This thematic auction aims to beconsidered the ideal yet natural crowning achievementof discerning and intellectually curious collectors, readyto take a great leap into the world of the stainless steelchronographs, where the only rule is performance,results, and continuance throughout time. There is nothing left to do, than push the rightbuttons. The nal result cannot but be perfect.

Adrenaline Rush

by Pucci Papaleo

W e live in a period of disposability, incapableof preserving what our grandparents or evenparents have managed to preserve. The dandyelegance of a linen handkerchief has been replaced bytissue paper, family photo albums are now available onlyin our cell phone (with said cell phone having a life spangetting shorter and shorter) and consequently theculture of the book has also changed. Beautifully boundbooks, printed on thick paper, the kind you not only enjoyreading but that also speak to your senses, the ones youenjoy running your hand over the cover, the ones withthe beautiful rustle of paper at each turn of a page.The books bearing the patina of an alluring world havegiven way to paperbacks to be rapidly read and leftbehind in a hotel room! That is why it was incredibly important for us tocreate not only an auction catalogue but a coffee tablereference book in relation to our START-STOP-RESET:88 Epic Stainless Steel Chronographs auction. The Wizard of Rome as we like to call Pucci Papaleo,

known to be behind some of the most beautiful andvaluable horology books, and his extraordinarily talentedteam, has accepted to print 88 individual and uniquehardcover book versions of the sale catalogue in a34cmx24cm horizontal leather bound format; all photos

are covered with a special varnish and a special plate onthe cover carries the photograph of one of the lots,consequently each of the 88 book examples displays adifferent cover, hence unique. This is why only the 88 lucky owners of thechronograph wristwatches offered in this thematicauction will become the owners of this book with theirpersonal watch gracing the cover. A book that willcertainly, with time, become an object of collection by itsown right yet hopefully remain inseparable from thewatch on its cover. The culture of beautifully nished books is somethingwe all want to preserve, we do not want to createsomething that will be consumed upon use but on thecontrary something that will be constantly used. A bookto constantly return to, to take pleasure in reading, abook that would speak to your senses, one you enjoyrunning your hand over the cover, one with the beautifulrustle of paper at each turn of a page, one with suchvivid photos you would want to grab each watch. A bookbearing the patina of an alluring world. This book is not just about horology, its abouttransmission and sharing moments, and we hope it willbring you and your friends as much intellectual andvisual stimulation and joy as it gave us to make.

88 Unique Booksfor 88 Lucky Winners

by Alex Ghotbi

he ook

STARTSTOPRESET88 EPIC STAINLESS STEEL CHRONOGRAPHS

Phillips International Team of Watch Specialists, 4

Auction Information, 5

Introduction Stopping Time, 7

Introduction Adrenaline Rush, 9

Introduction 88 Unique Books for 88 Lucky Winners, 10

A Little History of the Chronograph, 14

The Ultimate Guide to the Chronograph, 16

Index, 18

Property of Sale, 20

Guide for Prospective Buyers, 244

Conditions of Sale, 247

Authorship Warranty, 251

Phillips Executive Management, 252

International Specialists and Worldwide Ofces, 252

Specialists and Departments, 253

Sale Information, 255

Form for Registration, Absentee and Telephone bidding, 257

Contents

14 START STOP RESET

hen talking about the birth ofthe rst chronograph, there aremany authors and spreadrumours to be addressed. With

regards to this, various watch Manufacturersostentatiously rolled out dates and models withsuch a meticulous exactitude to leave even themost rigorous historian bewildered. Whereas, afew noted horology chroniclers alongside ahandful of other experts were pointlesslypursuing that one date. In any event, we can bedenite on one point: from its very beginningsthis complication has been able to magnetisethe attention and the passion of the world.

A few years ago, the history of watchmaking wasrewritten due to the discovery of a pocket watch,which turned out to be the rst chronographever made. In 1816, Louis Moinet, a Frenchwatchmaker and painter, completed what hecalled the Compteur de Tierces. Thisextraordinary instrument, which literally meanscounter of thirds, measures events to the 60thof a second indicated by a central hand. Theelapsed seconds and minutes are recorded onseparate subsidiary registers and the hours on a24-hour dial. Moreover, it is powered by the rstmechanical high-frequency movement that runsat an incredible speed of 216,000 beats per hourand features a zero reset function. Undoubtedly,the work of a genius ahead of his time.

Passion for games and gambling is indeed as oldas Man. But most importantly, it has lifted thecurtain on a rudimental and admittedly notso precise instrument for measuring anestablished length of time. Let us take a leapback into history again. In the late EighteenthCentury England, when the Jockey Club whichis still today the largest commercial organisationin British horseracing was rst established: acompetition of speed and agility that required aninstrument to accurately measure the arrivaltime of the participants. In September 1821, theFrench watchmaker Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec

invented a timepiece for timing horse races.In a meeting held in October of that same year,the French Academy of Sciences presided byAntoine-Louis Breguet and Prony reported onthe invention that Rieussec had presentedchristening it the Chronograph with SecondsIndicator. 9th March, 1822: he received thepatent that ofcially sanctioned the operatingprinciples of this instrument that dropped a tinyspot of ink on the dial marking the elapsed time.Hence chronos means time, and graph writing.Basically, it was a watch that wrote time, thusthe term chronograph has stuck ever since.Technically speaking, the inking chronographpresented obvious inconveniences, such asmarking only short periods of time. It alsorequired frequent maintenance that entailedlling the ink tank and cleaning the porcelaindial after a use. Despite these drawbacks, itunexpectedly remained in production for a longtime, even though researches were carried outstriving to nd better solutions from the start.

A key thing to pay attention to is that thechronograph has been linked to sports, eversince its birth and up to the present days.Thus, beyond exemplifying a precious and iconicobject, the chronograph represents the technicallandmark instrument for measuring time.

In February 1822, the London-based watchmakerFrdrick Louis Fatton developed an inkingchronograph featuring a xed dial system thatearned him a patent. Even the masterwatchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet two yearsearlier had worked on two double secondchronometers, referred to as dobservation,anticipating the concept of rattrapante watches.Louis Frdric Perrelet, a Swiss clockmakerestablished in Paris, designed a physics andastronomy chronograph counter, which grantedhim a patent in 1828. Yet again, anotherforerunner of rattrapante timepieces.The Austrian Paris-based watchmaker JosephThaddeus Winnerl presented a simplied version

A Little History of

1816

1821

1822

1828

of a split-second mechanism, for which a patentwas ofcially registered in 1831. Undoubtedly,the chronographs exerted a strong inuencewith a growing interest in the development ofnew innovative mechanisms, even though theresults were at the moment not anywhere readyfor a large-scale series production.

The turning point in modern horology designwas unveiled in 1844: a London-based Swisswatchmaker Adolphe Nicole developed a systemthat allowed the hand to return to zero, whichgranted him a patent: the cam-actuated lever,featuring the distinguished heart shape. Stilltoday, it holds the stage in many chronographmechanisms. Nearly twenty years later, FrolPiguet conceived and realised a mechanism thatincorporated a reset function. This discoverygranted the Nicole & Capt manufacturer apatent, thus launching the rst pocket watchdisplaying the three basic functions that weshall be meeting later in all the followingchronographs: start, stop and reset to zero afterindicating the elapsed time. At this point, thehistory of the chronograph stops, takes time, andwaits for the next revolution to shake the veryfoundations of horology world.

A long time ago in the wintery nights of the FirstWorld War, the few ofcials that decided to leavethe front lines and step down into the endlessand muddy trenches, immediately understoodthe great drawbacks of the pocket watches. Atthe same time, the aviators also felt the need toread time fast and simply whilst ying theiraircrafts. Thus, the birth of the rst wristwatches.Obviously, the chronographs could not remainindifferent toward this modern trend. It is henceno coincidence that the early chronographwristwatches were originally pocket watchestted to this use, welding the lugs to the caseand reprinting the indications on the dial.However, watchmakers had to take horologydesign to the next level by making themovements as small as possible. In 1910, Moeris

released the rst 13-ligne calibres developedfor small watch cases slightly greater than 29millimetres. Soon followed by othermanufacturers such as Landeron, Lemania,Universal Nevertheless, we are still speakingabout mechanics activated by one single pushpiece, which sequentially controlled the start,stop and reset functions.

The modern age of the chronograph ofciallybegan in 1933 when Breitling obtained a patentNr. 172129. The advertisement campaignsstaged the rst wrist chronograph sporting twopush buttons: one for the start and the stop, theother for the reset function, which actually wasan extension of a pocket watch patent registeredin 1923. The modern chronograph history kickedoff and started its endless quest for utmostprecision and time reliability. The year 1936welcomed a new innovation: the hand returnedto zero without the need to stop thechronograph. The patent Nr. 183262 of thismechanism, referred to as yback, belongs toLongines. It was then followed up with otherdevelopments aimed to render the constructionof movements easier and less expensive.To achieve this result the column wheel, whichuntil then controlled the switching functions,was removed. In 1937, Landeron patent Nr.209394 registered in 1940 released a threebutton mechanism, one for each single function.

From then on, the evolution of the chronographstook off with great speed, yet perfectly inkeeping to the traditional standards of high-endwatchmaking: manually wound or automaticmovements, two push buttons, two or threesubsidiary registers, column wheels and coggedgear mechanism for the transmission of energy.

To further understand and follow the manydevelopment stages, there is no need for wordsanymore. Observe, study and feast your eyes onthe 88 epic models in the following pages thatcomprise the Start Stop Reset Auction.

the Chronograph

1831

1844

1910

1933

1936

1937

16 START STOP RESET

The Ultimate Guide

he chronograph is passion, graphic artand emotions, but also mechanics anduncompromising technical inclination.Let us start from the ofcial horology

basics to unravel functions and specic features.

CHRONOGRAPHA watch with hands showing the hours, minutesand seconds, together with a mechanism control-ling a chronograph-hand mounted in the centre ofthe dial. By the operation of push-pieces, the chro-nograph-hand can be set in motion, stopped andreturned to zero. More properly chronoscope.*Unquestionably, it is one of the most beloved,sought-after and worn horology mechanicalcomplications: no watch enthusiast can resistthe temptation of having more than one ofthese timepieces in a collection.

CHRONOGRAPH MODULEModule comprising a chronograph mechanism;often designed to be mounted on calibres not ini-tially intended as chronographs. *The modular chronograph is frequently used inboth modern and contemporary watch collec-tions, due to the possibility of implementing achronograph mechanism on base calibres. Thusallowing the realisation of economically compel-ling as well as technically efcient movements.Often, an easy way to spot a modular chrono-graph movement is to check the position of thechronograph pushers, which may or may not bein line with the winding crown.

CHRONOSCOPEIt is the correct term for what watchmakers call achronograph. A chronoscope measures intervals oftime, while a chronograph, strictly speaking, oughtto record time. *Understanding the etymology of words can giveyou a great insight. From Ancient Greek, thewords Khronos and Skopos mean time andwatcher. Therefore, technically speaking, thedesignation chronoscope is philologically cor-rect. Nevertheless, it is not commonly adopted oracknowledged in the watchmaking world. Thisdenomination is used by some purist manufac-turers as an alternative name for the more tradi-tional term chronograph.

CHRONOSTOPHalfway between a chronograph and a minutecounter, the specicity of the chronostop function isto be permanently activated, yet can be returned tozero at any moment. **Today, this function has disappeared from cur-rent productions. It was frequently employed inscience or on the sports elds to record repeatedtimings. Due to the restricted number of exam-ples produced, this timepiece represents a capti-vating appeal for collectors.

COUNTERAny instrument that counts or registers. The coun-ter of a wheel-cutting engine, is divided disc whichmakes a fraction of a revolution according to thepitch: an 80-, 90-tooth counter, etc. *Chronograph dials can display from one counter,which registers the seconds, up to three coun-ters, which record the seconds, the minutes andthe hours elapsed. The position of the countersis very important to evaluate the visual balanceof the dial and therefore can exert a noticeableinuence on the aesthetical impact. The mostpopular dial layout in classic watchmaking is thehorizontal alignment of two subsidiary registerslocated at three and nine oclock (one of whichgenerally counts up the continuous seconds), orthree subsidiary registers with the third positio-ned at six o clock.

FLY-BACK OR RETOUR EN VOLA function of particular use to pilots by which thechronograph hand can be independently reset tozero and then immediately started again by pres-sing once on the push-piece. Indeed, the operationof stopping, returning to zero and restarting thehand in three separate movements would be tootime-consuming at high speed. **A function often employed in sports or aviationfor time keeping and other repeated timings. Te-chnically speaking, the y-back feature is consi-dered an additional complication to a traditionalchronograph.

PULSEMETER (SPHYGMOMETER)It is an instrument for counting the beats of theheart. In horology, a pulsemeter is a timer or chro-nograph with a special dial that includes a scale to

to the chronograph

measure the number of heartbeats. Usually calibra-ted on the basis of 15 or 30 pulsations. The hand isstarted, then stopped on the 30th beat; it thenshows the number of beats per minute.*Better known as medical scale, for decades it hasbeen used by wealthy doctors who had a keeninterest for ne mechanical watchmaking. Today it represents the distinct recognition ofcollectible timepieces.

PUSH-PIECEA button that is pressed to work a mechanism.The push-pieces of chronographs, striking-watches,alarms, etc. *The push-pieces are the rst visual element thatallows one to distinguish a chronograph fromany another timepiece. Generally, the chrono-graph watches feature two push-pieces (one forthe activation of the start and stop functions,and the other to reset the hand). It can also fea-ture one single push-piece to sequentially acti-vate start, stop and reset functions. Lastly, thewatch can also have three push-pieces (the thirdusually controls the rattrapante function). Theaesthetics, craftsmanship and water resistance ofthe push-pieces change considerably from onemodel to another.

SPLIT-SECOND CHRONOGRAPHA chronograph with two push-pieces and a split-seconds hand, i.e. two superimposed centre hands:the ordinary chronograph-hand and the y-backhand. It is used for timing several phenomena thatstart simultaneously but are of different duration.At the end of the rst phenomenon, the y-backhand is stopped, and the duration of the phenome-non can be read off on the dial; the y-back handis then made to overtake the rst hand and conti-nues to move with it. At the end of the second phe-nomenon, the y-back hand is stopped again, andthe duration is read off on the dial, and so on. After the last phenomenon, the two hands can bestopped and returned to zero. While one of thepush-pieces controls the y-back hand alone, theother controls both the hands. *Perfect for recording intermediate periods oftime and recognisable at rst glance due to thepresence of a third push-piece, this chronographrepresents an important collectible for ne wat-

chmaking enthusiasts and collectors of utterlyrare timepieces. The watchmaking industry pro-duces a rich variety of split-seconds chronographmechanisms. Notwithstanding, from a technicaland collecting point of view, the double columnwheel system is known as the most efcient, ap-preciated and valued mechanism.

TACHYMETERAn instrument for measuring speed. In watchma-king, a timer or chronograph equipped with a gra-duated dial on which speeds can be read off inkilometres per hour or some other unit. The scaleshows minutes and seconds. *The most practical and commonly used chrono-graph scale intended to measure an averagespeed or distance. Actually, the tachymeter scalecan be used to measure and compare any eventoccurred in a time lapse. For instance, if we covera distance of one kilometre in 30 seconds, wetravel at a speed of 120 kilometres per hour; li-kewise, if we read a page in 30 seconds, then wewill read 120 pages per hour.

TELEMETERInstrument for measuring distances. In horology, atimer or chronograph equipped with a graduateddial enabling distances to be read off on the basisof the speed of sound. The time that elapses bet-ween the ash of an explosion (for example, the -ring of a gun or the ash of a lightning) and thehearing of the noise makes it possible to read offon the dial the distance between the observer andthe position of the ash (see telemeter). *The principle is based upon the difference ofspeed propagation between light and sound. Itwas initially employed for military purposes: thetimer was activated when the ash of the can-non ring was observed and stopped at the mo-ment the roar was heard, in order to read off onthe dial the distance of the enemy lines. Moregenerally, it can also be used to remotely mea-sure the distance of any other light/sound event:for instance, a storm. By activating the timerwhen the lightning ash appears and stoppingthe hand as soon as the thunder is heard, the te-lemeter scale indicates the distance betweenthe observer and the position of the lightning,with no need of additional calculations.

* Illustrated Professional Dictionary of Horology - Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH 1961 2016. ** Glossary of watchmaking - 2015 - Copyright Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie.

18 START STOP RESET

88 EpicStainless Steel Chronographs

PROPERTY FOR SALE

JAEGERLE COULTRE

1

ETERNA

2

ULYSSE NARDIN

3

BREITLING

4

MOVADO

5

CYMA

6

OMEGA

7

ULYSSE NARDIN

8

LONGINES

9

ROLEX

10

TIFFANY & CO.

11

HERMS

12

ZENITH

13

ROLEX

14

OMEGA

15

ROLEX

16

PATEK PHILIPPE

17

UNIVERSAL GENVE

18

UNIVERSAL GENVE

19

MATHEY-TISSOT

20

ZENITH

21

OMEGA

22

BREGUET

23

UNIVERSAL GENVE

24

GRANA

25

LONGINES

26

BLANCPAIN

27

HEUER

28

ROLEX

29

PATEK PHILIPPE

30

ROLEX

31

BREGUET

32

BREITLING

33

ROLEX

34

PATEK PHILIPPE

35

ROLEX

36

HUBLOT

37

HEUER

38

EBERHARD & CO.

39

OMEGA

40

UNIVERSAL GENVE

41

HEUER

42

LONGINES

43

ROLEX

44

OMEGA

45

UNIVERSAL GENVE

46

TUDOR

47

OMEGA

48

BREITLING

49

ROLEX

50

RECORD WATCH CO.

51

ROLEX

52

OMEGA

53

JUVENIA

54

LONGINES

55

ROLEX

56

HEUER

57

OMEGA

58

LONGINES

59

ROLEX

60

UNIVERSAL GENVE

61

BREGUET

62

LONGINES

63

UNIVERSAL GENVE

64

LONGINES

65

OMEGA

66

UNIVERSAL GENVE

67

ROLEX

68

PATEK PHILIPPE

69

GENEVA SPORT

70

BREITLING

71

OMEGA

72

ROLEX

73

ROLEX

74

PATEK PHILIPPE

75

LONGINES

76

MINERVA

77

OMEGA

78

EBERHARD

79

ROLEX

80

MOVADO

81

ROLEX

82

ZENITH

83

ETERNA

84

OMEGA

85

LONGINES

86

OMEGA

87

ROLEX

88

Keeping it Dry

C hronographs have always had a fascination for collectors andacionados, yet we should not forget that they were created for apurpose: to be used, and more often than not in the open air facingthe elements and not behind a desk in a pristine ofce. Padded with deep

lush carpets. Operating in so many harsh environments, these timepieces

had one major enemy: moisture.

With the arrival of diving, be it for leisure, scientic research or combat,

the need for a fully water resistant case became a necessity. Many of the

chronographs in this section proudly bear their maritime heritage on their

dials whether called SuperOcean, Shark, Oyster or Sub-Sea yet they all have

one single purpose: to protect the precision mechanism they house from

moisture, water, and permanent damage, and in certain circumstances to

prevent jeopardy to the health or life of the wearer.

As the society of leisure evolved after the 2nd World War, so did the

offering of water proof chronographs that were now worn by surfers, y

shermen, sailors sipping a caipirihna on a yacht, or even ofce warriors

behind a desk in a pristine ofce padded with deep lush carpets.

The nine watches in this section have the core value of having been

designed to be impenetrable, and immune to outside elements.

They are each a bold declaration of what sturdy, reliable, and masculine

chronograph watch should be, and each is t to be worn for any occasion.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Shark WorldtimeLot

1

very rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch withblack dial, tachometer scale and world-time revolving bezel.

For those who enjoy traveling around the world, Jaeger-LeCoultres rareand esteemed reference E2643 is sure to impress. Launched in the late1960s and marketed as the Shark Deep Sea in the U.S., and as theVogue Chronograph in Europe, the Jaeger-LeCoultre signed-dialindicates the present example was made for Europe.

An unusual diving chronograph with world time indicated by its rotatingbezel, this uncommon watch is housed in a massive case measuring 40mm in diameter. Featuring broad, angular lugs, the masculine lines andproportions of the case, combined with its modern styling make it difficultto believe this watch is nearly half-century old. The matte black dial, withits white sub-dials, gives it a sporty aesthetic with great legibility.

Further enhancing the desirability of this chronograph wristwatch, it isaccompanied by its original presentation box and original serviceguarantee from Jaeger-LeCoultre.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

REFERENCE

CASE

MODEL NAME

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 5,000-10,000$5,100-10,3004,600-9,100

ACCESSORIESAccompanied by presentation box and Jaeger-LeCoultre service guarantee.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Circa 1969

E2643

333261

Shark Deep Sea or Vogue Chronograph

Stainless steel

Manual, cal. 726, 17 jewels

Rubber

Stainless steel Jaeger-LeCoultre buckle

40mm diameter

Case, dial and movement signed

VIE

W O

F T

HE

TIM

EPIE

CE

HO

USE

D I

N I

TS

PR

ESEN

TAT

ION

V B

OX

A

NG

LED

IM

AG

E O

F T

HE

HEA

RTB

EAT

INSI

DE

TH

E C

ASE

M

AG

NIF

IED

CEN

TER

SH

OT

OF

CO

UN

TER

S A

ND

FU

LL H

AN

D S

ET.

22 START STOP RESET

Eterna ClamshellLot

2

n attractive and large stainless steel chronograph wristwatch withsilvered dial, telemeter and tachometer scales.

The name Eterna represents timepieces made of the highest quality, withthe brands heritage dating back over 160 years. This Swiss luxury brandfounded in 1856 is known for its innovative designs and mechanicalcomplications evident when they revolutionized the market by launchingthe first ever wristwatch with alarm function.

The watch manufacturer also co-founded the ETA movements, aname apparently derived from ETERNA minus the three middle letters.The brand has earned its place as being a premier example of how toproduce the greatest number of chronometers. The Eterna namesymbolizes the finest workmanship in watchmaking.

The present watchs two-piece case is securely fastened by four screwsdrilled into the underside of each lug, protecting the movement fromexposure to humidity and water. Fitted with a stunning silvered dialfeaturing a concentric blue tachometer scale around the dials center,and a red telemeter scale along the outer rim, one can assume that thistimepiece was intended for outdoor use, most likely exposing it toinclement weather conditions and rough terrain.

Considering the uncompromised condition of this watch with its over 70-year lifespan, it is difficult to believe it was ever worn in rough conditions.This masculine sized chronograph is an excellent representation ofEternas rich history and deep roots within the horological community.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

MOVEMENT

CASE

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 8,000-16,000 $8,200-16,4007,300-14,600

Eterna

Circa 1940

2835208

275801

Stainless steel

Manual, 14 Valjoux 22, 17 jewels

Crocodile

Stainless steel

36mm diameter

Case, dial and movement signed. Caseback further

engraved R. Bertil A. Dahlberg 1940.

NO

TIC

E T

HE

SCR

EW D

RIL

LED

IN

TO T

HE

UN

DER

SID

E O

F T

HE

LUG

EN

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DIA

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ENT

ER S

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, SC

ALE

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DES

IGN

.

24 START STOP RESET

Ulysse Nardin Black Telephone DialLot

3

very attractive and rare stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquer dial,luminous Arabic hour markers and large round chronograph pushers.

Ulysse Nardin is a widely acclaimed Swiss watch manufacturer whichwas founded in 1846 and earned recognition for its precisionchronometers during the early to mid 20th century.

The present example is housed in a masculine stainless steel round case,with the pleasing proportions and balance found on the most desirablewatches from the 1940s. The two round chronograph pushers areseemingly large for a case of its size, giving the timepiece greaterpresence on the wrist, but also enhancing the user friendliness. In factthis watch must have been designed with someone in mind who woulduse it in rough outdoor conditions, as the watch also features a screw-back protecting the fine movement from humidity and dust.

The black lacquered dial is stunning, and features luminous Arabic hourmarkers and hands. The designation on the dial under the Ulysse Nardininscription logo reads Locle Suisse, referring to Le Locle, the historicheadquarters of their factories.

The watch is fitted with a leather strap, giving it both a classic andversatile look. Well preserved, and in overall excellent original condition,the watch retains strong definition throughout the case and lugs.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

MOVEMENT

CASE

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 15,000-30,000$15,400-30,80013,700-27,400

Ulysse Nardin

1942

121636

613930

Stainless steel


Leather

Stainless steel

35mm diameter

Dial and movement signed

VIE

W O

F T

HE

MO

VEM

ENT

INSI

DE

ZO

OM

ED P

RO

FILE

SH

OT

OF

TH

E C

RIS

P C

ASE

HIG

HLI

GH

TIN

G C

RO

WN

, PU

SHER

S A

ND

CA

SEB

AC

K

ENLA

RG

ED I

MA

GE

OF

HA

ND

S A

ND

DES

IGN

ATIO

NS.

26 START STOP RESET

Breitling SuperOceanLot

4

n extremely rare, highly attractive and oversized stainless steelchronograph wristwatch with black dial, rotatable bezel and bracelet.

Breitling first launched the SuperOcean in 1957. The model has evolvedgracefully since its inception, and is currently being produced in varioussizes and color combinations.

The substantial 39mm case is fitted with a rotating bezel, round pushers,and its exotic period stainless steel bracelet. Its black dial, accented withluminous hour markers and luminous hands, enhance the beauty of thetimepiece. The signature is still strikingly similar to the SuperOceanwatches being produced today, showing the graceful evolution andtimeless appeal of the model. Period advertisements by Breitling promotethe SuperOcean as the chronograph for divers offering an alternative tothose under water compared to those flying in the sky that Breitlingalready knew as their active clientele.

Albeit lesser known than other legendary water-resistant chronographsfrom the period including the historical models from Rolex, Heuer, Omegajust to name a few, scholars are of the opinion that the original 1957SuperOcean was the first in the world to feature white registers against ablack dial years before the other Swiss brands would follow this newdesign language. In terms of production numbers, the SuperOcean wasmade in much smaller quantities than any of those famous models fromthe same period, making it a little known but uber rare gem.

Finding a vintage Breitling SuperOcean from the early production years isquite a challenge. Finding one in such outstanding condition as that ofthe present lot is therefore extremely difficult. Combined with itsoutstanding state of preservation, the present lot is a superb exampleof the SuperOcean, and is a wonderful addition to any collection.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

REFERENCE

CASE

MODEL NAME

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 15,000-30,000$15,400-30,80013,700-27,400

Breitling

Circa 1958

807

924663

SuperOcean

Stainless steel

Manual, cal. Venus 175, 17 jewels

Stainless steel Gemex expandable bracelet,

stamped pat. 2.515.817

39mm diameter


VIE

W O

F T

HE

MA

NU

ALL

Y-W

OU

ND

CA

LIB

ER

MA

GN

IFIE

D I

MA

GE

OF

TH

E B

LAC

K D

IAL

WIT

H S

UP

ER O

CEA

N S

IGN

ATU

RE

A

NG

LED

SH

OT

OF

WEL

L-D

EFIN

ED L

UG

S, C

ASE

, CR

OW

N A

ND

PU

SHER

S.

28 START STOP RESET

Movado Tasti Tondi NeroLot

5

highly attractive and very rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatchwith black lacquered dial and gold-colored tachometer scale.

Vintage Movado chronograph wristwatches enjoy a strong followingaround the world due to the exceptional quality of their cases,movements, and stunning dial designs.

This example presented here is housed in an exceptional 35 mm case.In lovely original condition, its case was made by Taubert & Fils theidentical case maker used by Patek Philippe for some of their iconic,water-resistant references, including the legendary reference 1463chronograph, and the reference 565. Accordingly, its fitted with the sameround, Tasti Tondi pump pushers and a crown as those found on the1463. The stunning and rare black dial is also in excellent condition, anddisplays a rainbow-like radiance that is very pleasing to the observer.It is powered by Movados own, in-house 95 M manual-windchronograph movement; a delightful, serpentine-shaped hand used forthe 3 oclock register provides so much character to the watch.The start-stop function is started by the lower button, and reset isactivated by the button located at the 2 oclock position.

The watch is in a virtually unrestored state of preservation, and combinedwith its quality and rarity, it offers tremendous value for any collector.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

REFERENCE

MOVEMENT

CASE

MODEL NAME

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 20,000-40,000$20,600-41,10018,200-36,500

ACCESSORIESAccompanied by presentation box.

Movado

Circa 1940

3525

19008

97422

Non-Magnetic

Stainless steel

Manual, cal. 95M, 17 jewels

Leather

Stainless steel buckle

35mm diameter


HEA

RTB

EAT

OF

TH

E T

IMEP

IEC

E

TH

E T

HR

EE O

CLO

CK

REG

IST

ER F

EAT

UR

ES A

SER

PEN

TIN

E-SH

AP

ED H

AN

D

OV

ERA

LL P

ICT

UR

E SH

OW

ING

A G

LIM

PSE

OF

TH

E T

AST

I TO

ND

I P

UM

P P

USH

ERS.

30 START STOP RESET

Cyma ClamshellLot

6

very rare and highly attractive antimagnetic stainless steel chronographwith glossy black dial, tachometer and telemeter scales

The 1930s and early 1940s were an exploratory time for watchmanufacturers as is evidenced by the great diversity of case designsduring this important period of the development of the wristwatch.Presented here is a wonderful example from Cyma, a Swiss watchmanufacturer founded in 1862, housed in an oversized, water-resistantsteel case that is wonderfully preserved.

The massive lugs are well defined and crisp, and on the underside, havefour screws embedded to attach to the case. This two-piece so-calledclamshell case was granted the Patent number 189190, based on itsdesign. The side of the case has a lovely satin brushed finish, free of flawswith no signs of imperfections.

Furthermore, the eye catching gold and white colored printing of thetachometer and the outer telemeter scales contrast perfectly with thedeep black dial surface, enhancing the character of an already interestingcollectors timepiece.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

REFERENCE

MOVEMENT

CASE

MODEL NAME

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 8,000-16,000$8,200-16,4007,300-14,600

Cyma

Circa 1940

295806

8546

145

Antimagntique

Stainless steel

Manual, cal. Valjoux 22, 17 jewels

Leather


38.5mm diameter

Dial and movement signed

VIE

W O

F T

HE

CA

L. 2

2 VA

LJO

UX

V

IEW

OF

TH

E U

NU

SUA

L T

WO

- PIE

CE

STR

UC

TU

RE

OF

TH

E C

ASE

C

LOSE

UP

SHO

T O

F T

HE

DIA

L D

ISP

LAY

ING

REG

IST

ERS,

HA

ND

S, S

CA

LES

AN

D G

RA

PH

ICS.

32 START STOP RESET

Omega Ref. CK 2077 Luminous TrackLot

7

n extremely rare, highly attractive and large stainless steel chronographwristwatch with glossy black dial, luminous hour marker track, tachometer andtelemeter scales.

The Omega CK 2077 collection was first launched in 1937, and wasthe firms first water resistant chronograph.

The present example is fitted with a highly unusual, yet intriguing dialdesign, most notably highlighted by a completely luminous hour ring thatcontrasts powerfully against the glossy black dial. Whereas normallythe hour markers are luminous, on this incredible piece we see the hourspainted in black on top of the luminous ring.

Additionally, along the outer edge of the dial is a copper-coloredtachometer scale, while the inner part of the hour ring features a silver-colored telemeter scale. The masculine proportions of this 38mmchronograph retain sharp edges throughout the case and excellentdefinition to the bezel and lugs. Underneath its screw down case backresides Omegas manually wound caliber 33.3 chronograph movement.According to the Extract from the Archives, this example from 1945was delivered to the French Colonies, and has managed to survive 70years with hardly any signs of wear.

Preserved in excellent overall condition, the watchs highly legibleaesthetics in conjunction with the remarkable historical lineage of thisincredible piece is sure to impress those who bestow their eyes upon it.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

REFERENCE

MOVEMENT

CASE

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 40,000-80,000$41,100-82,20036,500-73,000

ACCESSORIESAccompanied by presentation box and an Extract from the Archives conrmingthe date of production of the present watch on September 28, 1945 and deliveryto the French Colonies.

Omega

1945

CK 2077

9597723

396

Stainless steel

Manual, cal. 33.3 CHRO, 17 jewels

Leather

Stainless steel Omega buckle

38mm diameter

Case, dial, movement, strap and buckle signed

TH

E T

IMEP

IEC

E IS

AC

CO

MPA

NIE

D B

Y P

RES

ENTA

TIO

N B

OX

AN

D E

XT

RA

CT

FRO

M A

RC

HIV

ES

ENLA

RG

ED A

NG

LED

SH

OT

OF

TH

E G

LOSS

Y B

LAC

K D

IAL

V

IEW

OF

CA

SEB

AC

K A

ND

MO

VEM

ENT.

34 START STOP RESET

Ulysse Nardin Ref. 7536-2 TropicalLot

8

very attractive, rare and large stainless steel chronograph wristwatchwith tropical black dial and tachometer bezel.

This stainless steel beauty, reference 7536-2, is an innovative piece thatwas produced in the 1960s by the highly prestigious Ulysse Nardincompany founded in 1846. To date, this small elite company hasregistered more patents for technical developments than most otherSwiss luxury watchmakers.

Not only the case design but also the dial with its subsidiary dials andhour markers closely resemble Rolexs widely acclaimed OysterCosmograph. The tachymeter bezel is a single anodized piece ofaluminum instead of an insert with steel, unlike most chronographs fromthe time. The beauty of this piece is showcased in its details includingheavy sculptured lugs, a white chronograph second hand and appliedUlysse Nardin logo and hour markers on the matte black dial. Interestingly,the Ulysse Nardin is 1mm larger than its better-known cousin made byRolex. A small but most noticeable difference

Its an understated wristwatch for the avid collector, sure to impress asa result of its robust size and sporty appeal, also thanks to its richchocolate-brown tropical dial.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

REFERENCE

MOVEMENT

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 12,000-24,000$12,300-24,60010,900-21,900

Ulysse Nardin

1969

7536-2

7501042

Stainless steel

Manual, cal. N 13 B, 17 jewels

Leather


38mm diameter


CA

SE I

NC

OR

PO

RAT

ING

MA

NU

AL

CA

L N

13

B M

ECH

AN

ISM

M

AG

NIF

IED

IM

AG

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F T

HE

MAT

TE

CH

OC

OLA

TE-

BR

OW

N D

IAL

C

RIS

P C

ASE

AN

D W

ELL-

DEF

INED

LU

GS,

CR

OW

N A

ND

PU

SHER

S.

36 START STOP RESET

Longines Ref. 5699 Doppia LancettaLot

9

very rare, highly attractive, and large stainless steel chronographwristwatch with charismatic silver-colored dial, step bezel, and red-colored centralelapsed minute counter.

Longines pushed the boundaries with reference 5699 in terms of both itsaesthetic design and technical ingenuity. The watch was nicknamed inItalian Doppia Lancetta, which in English means double hand, but it isnot to be confused with a split-seconds chronograph.

The present watch is fitted with the legendary in-house caliber 13ZN. In addition to the hour and minute hands, reference 5699 features twoadditional, centrally mounted hands on the dial, both controlling differentfunctions of the watch. The dial layout suppresses the minute register andinstead replaces it with a centrally mounted red hand, which counts theminutes that have elapsed. A noteworthy element to mention is the LXWstamp found on the movement, which is a Longines-Wittnauer importcode indicating the watch was intended for the American market.

Reference 5699 further stands out with its considerable case size,measuring a dramatic 39.5mm in diameter. This case shares the samecharacteristic found on many early Longines chronograph wristwatches,where the underside of the lug is stamped to match the casebacknumber. Offered in excellent, original condition, this Longines designed inthe 1940s is sure to impress scholars, collectors, and enthusiasts.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

REFERENCE

MOVEMENT

CASE

MODEL NAME

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 40,000-80,000$41,100-82,20036,500-73,000

ACCESSORIESAccompanied by an Extract from the Archives, conrming the present watchwas invoiced on March 24, 1947 to the company Longines-Wittnauer,Longines US agent at that time.

LITERATUREFor other examples of reference 5699 see Longines Watches, John Goldberger,pg. 212-216

Longines

1947

5699, batch number 23086

6940740

106

Doppia Lancetta

Stainless steel

Manual, cal. 13ZN, 17 jewels

Leather

Stainless steel Longines buckle

39.5mm diameter


VIE

W O

F T

HE

CA

L. 1

3ZN

AN

D E

NG

RA

VIN

G O

N U

ND

ERSI

DE

OF

LUG

CO

RR

ESP

ON

DIN

G T

O T

HE

CA

SE N

UM

BER

D

ETA

IL I

MA

GE

OF

DIA

L A

ND

HA

ND

S

CR

ISP

CR

OW

N A

ND

BEV

ELS

ON

CA

SE.

38 START STOP RESET

Rolex Ref. 6240 Oyster AlpinaLot

10

n extremely rare and highly attractive early stainless steel OysterCosmograph wristwatch with silvered dial and bracelet.

In 1965, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona family grew as a new modelwas added: reference 6240. Manufactured exclusively in stainless steel,the 6240 introduced an acrylic bezel for the tachometer, and wasequipped with new, screw-down chronograph pushers to provideimproved water resistance. Only in production until 1969, its believedroughly only 1,700 examples of the 6240 were produced.

Referred to as the Oyster Alpina by collectors, this lot is an exceptionalexample due to a subtle, yet highly important detail found on the dial at12 oclock. Upon first glance, the observer will notice many similarities tothat of the better-known Oyster Sotto Paul Newman. Both of these rarevariants feature the word Oyster on the dial, underneath the RolexCosmograph designation.

As this watch aged beautifully over time, its charm and uniqueness canbe found in subtle variations to the dial. Fitted on the well-preserved caseare the original, and early nickel-plated millerighe pushers, meaning athousand lines, that further enhances this watchs beauty and desirability.

Interestingly, less than ten of the so-called Oyster Alpinas are known tobe in existence, making this configuration rarer than even the belovedOyster Sotto Paul Newman. The present lot is a trophy watch worthy ofcrowning the worlds most important collections of Rolex watches.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

REFERENCE

CASE

MODEL NAME

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 100,000-200,000$102,800-205,60091,200-182,400

LITERATUREThis example is prominently illustrated in the Ultimate Rolex Daytona,Pucci Papaleo Editore, pg. 328-331.

Rolex

1966

6240

1438971

Oyster Alpina

Stainless steel

Manual, cal. Valjoux 72B, 17 jewels

Stainless steel Rolex riveted bracelet, stamped 7205,

200mm max length, endlinks stamped 71

Stainless steel folding deployant clasp, stamped 4.66

37.5mm diameter


TH

IS W

RIS

TW

ATC

H I

S IL

LUST

RAT

ED I

N T

HE

ULT

IMAT

E R

OLE

X D

AYTO

NA

BO

OK

C

LOSE

UP

ON

TH

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AIN

GR

AP

HIC

S P

RIN

TED

ON

TH

IS U

LTR

A-R

AR

E D

IAL

V

IEW

OF

TH

E C

AL.

72B

MO

VEM

ENT.

40 START STOP RESET

5th AvenueRue du FaubourgSaint-HonorVia del CorsoCalle 25 de Mayo

N ew york s 5th Avenue, Paris rue du Faubourg Saint-Honor,Romes Via del Corso or Montevideos Calle 25 de Mayo. Namesand addresses that conjure emotions and magic, they evoke theglamour and glitz of an alluring world.

These streets have become symbols of luxury, quality, exclusivity and

service thanks to prestigious retailers, jewelers or leather goods

manufacturers such as Tiffany, Cairelli, or Herms who have built their

agships at these locations. The famous and glitterati happily willing to go

the far and exotic city of Montevideo to visit the famed retailer Freccero in

search of an exclusive timepiece.

These Maisons, known for the quality of their crafts, did not have the

expertise to create their own timepieces and thus turned to prestigious

manufacturers with the knowhow and technical capacities to make watches

for them. They even sometimes applied a cavalcade of dazzling elements

from their own DNA to the watches making them truly unique. They proudly

applied their own names next to that of the maker, thus creating an

extremely coveted category of watches: those with a double signature.

Tiffany & Co. Antimagnetic Rose DialLot

11

very rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatchwith rose colored dial, telemeter and tachometer scales.

The prestigious American-based retailer Tiffany & Co. was founded in1837. It was some ten years later that the firm began selling watchesunder its own name, continuing until the present day. In order to beassociated with the high quality Tiffany & Co. brand, oftentimes watchcompanies made timepieces on behalf of Tiffany to be sold in their stores.These commissioned watches today are highly sought after, especiallywhen found in excellent condition.

The present anti-magnetic chronograph is a very unusual collectorswatch as it is composed of a 1940s case and movement but most likelyonly finished and completed in the early 1980s. In fact, the dial finish isof more recent quality and the Tiffany & Co. logo is printed exactly in themanner as we know it from 1980s watches with the additional Tiffany &Co. logo notably rare and highly collectable Rolex watches.

The rose-colored main surface of the dial is extremely attractive, and infact is actually made of a copper alloy giving the watch its outstandingcolor. The generously proportioned case houses the widely used manual-winding Valjoux 23 movement and is engraved 575 on the undersideof its lug, matching the last three digits of the case back.

Tiffany & Co. has been, throughout the 20th century, synonymous withthe quintessential styling of New York City. The present lot is an excellent,well-preserved example of a Tiffany & Co. chronograph combiningelements from the World War II era and the late 20th century.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

CASE

MODEL NAME

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 8,000-16,000$8,200-16,4007,300-14,600

Tiffany & Co.

Circa 1940/80

2575

Antimagnetic

Stainless steel


Leather


35mm diameter

Case and dial signed

BEA

TIN

G H

EART

H H

OU

SED

IN

TH

E W

ATC

H C

ASE

T

HE

SUR

FAC

E O

F T

HE

DIA

L FE

ATU

RES

CH

AN

GIN

G T

ON

ES A

CC

OR

DIN

G T

O T

HE

INC

LIN

ATIO

N

SID

E V

IEW

OF

TH

E T

IMEP

IEC

E.

44 START STOP RESET

Herms Tropical Bamboo HatLot

12

very rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatch withblack tropical dial, unusual lugs, tachometer and telemeter scales.

Thierry Herms founded Herms in 1837 as a harness workshop fortop-level horse riders in Paris. The company would later expand into travelbags, furniture, and watchmaking. Herms has preserved theirimpeccable reputation for the finest crafted leather goods for almost twocenturies, still reigning as a worldwide leader in the luxury market today.

The present watch from the mid-1930s has an interesting innovativedesign. Its large case is exceptional, standing out with its prominent,cone-shaped, hinged lugs. Its fitted with a beautiful black dial that hasaged to a lovely shade of chocolate brown. The uniform aging of the dialperfectly harmonizes with the gold colored hour markers, tachometer, andtelemeter scales.

A market leader in both luxury and high-fashion, Herms is known toonly grace their name on products made with top quality craftsmanship.The extraordinary condition combined with fascinating aesthetics makesthis unusual wristwatch a highly collectible and interesting early vintagechronograph for watch collectors of all types.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

CASE

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 15,000-30,000$15,400-30,80013,700-27,400

Herms

Circa 1935

267907

Stainless steel


Leather


35mm diameter

Dial, strap and buckle signed

INSI

DE

VIE

W O

F T

HE

MA

NU

AL

MEC

HA

NIS

M H

OU

SED

IN

TH

E T

IMEP

IEC

E

CLO

SE U

P IM

AG

E O

F T

HE

DIA

L W

ITH

REG

IST

ERS,

SC

ALE

S A

ND

HA

ND

S

MA

GN

IFIE

D S

HO

T O

F T

HE

FAN

CY L

UG

.

46 START STOP RESET

Zenith CP-2 CairelliLot

13

very rare, oversized and important stainless steel chronographwristwatch with matte black dial, rotating bezel, luminous Arabic hour markers,made for A. Cairelli Roma.

One cannot help but be impressed by this distinguished and extremelyrare vintage military issued Zenith stainless steel chronograph the CP-2(Cronometro da Polsa Type 2). Measuring a substantial 43mm indiameter, it is understood that Zenith in the 1960s and 70s producedapproximately 2,500 examples of the reference for the Italian Air Force,the Aeronautica Militare Italiana (AMI).

They were all supplied through A. Cairelli, the prominent Roman retailerof watches, clocks, and mechanical instrumentation. Designed for AMIspilots for mission use, many were not issued due to an abruptcancellation by the AMI. A. Cairelli sold the remaining stock all withno military inscriptions on their casebacks privately to civilians.

The present watch is therefore a rare military-issued version, illustrated bythe engraving on this caseback, reading AMI CRONOMETRO TIPO CP-2MM 201'228. Its fitted with a beautiful, matte black dial adorned withluminous hour markers, with a classic two-register configurationenhanced by the prestigious A. Cairelli Roma signature at 6 oclock.

Housing a high grade, hand-wound movement the caliber 146, thishistorically significant chronograph remains in excellent overall condition.Combined with its masculine presence, military provenance, and eye-catching dial, its a superb timepiece for any vintage watch enthusiast.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

CASE

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 10,000-20,000$10,300-20,6009,100-18,200

Zenith

1970

201228 (Registration Number)

Stainless steel

Manual, cal. 146DP, 17 jewels

Nylon

Stainless steel

43mm diameter

Dial and movement signed.

Caseback further engraved A.M.I Cronometro Tipo

CP-2 M.M. 201228

CA

SEB

AC

K R

ETA

ININ

G M

ILIT

ARY

EN

GR

AV

ING

S

UP

CLO

SE S

HO

T O

F Z

ENIT

H D

IAL

FEAT

UR

ING

A. C

AIR

ELLI

RO

MA

P

RO

FILE

FEA

TU

RIN

G M

AG

NIF

ICEN

T B

EVEL

S A

ND

ED

GES

ON

LU

GS.

48 START STOP RESET

Rolex Pre-Daytona Tiffany & Co.Lot

14

n extremely rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronographwristwatch with silvered dial and bracelet, retailed by Tiffany & Co.

The present lot is, without exaggeration, one of the finest examples of theRolex Pre-Daytona chronograph, reference 6238, to have surfaced untilnow. Strongly emblazoned on the dial at 12 oclock is the coveted NewYork retailer signature, Tiffany & Co. Even though this signature addssignificant appeal, the stunning, sun-burst-finished silver dial stands outon its own due to its immaculate, unrestored condition with all luminousdots intact. They have each aged to a wonderful shade of beige,providing this modern-looking chronograph with a lovely vintage charm.As if these dial attributes arent enough, the watch is fitted with rarely seenthin, black-colored hands that provide superb contrast and legibility.

The fact that this very watch is prominently featured over two pages inJohn Goldbergers reference, 100 Superlative Rolex Watches, is furtherproof of the watchs importance and beauty.

Consistent with the condition of the dial, the case is preserved inremarkable overall condition, illustrated by its sharp bezel, strong definitionof the lugs, crisp numbers in between the lugs, and the engraved 4-digitTiffany code on the underside of the lug. Its completed with its correctand original Rolex U.S.A. Jubilee bracelet in accordance with thewatchs sale in NY in 1964. This exclusive example of a Tiffany-signedPre-Daytona is a truly rare opportunity for the discerning collector.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

REFERENCE

CASE

MODEL NAME

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 50,000-100,000$51,400-102,80045,600-91,200

LITERATUREIllustrated in John Goldbergers 100 Superlative Rolex Watches, pg. 132-133. Foradditional examples of the Pre-Daytona, see Pucci Papaleos I Cronogra Rolex -La Leggenda, pg. 278-290.

Rolex

1964

6238

1076772

Pre-Daytona

Stainless steel

Manual, cal. 72B, 17 jewels

Rolex stainless steel jubilee bracelet,

max. length 200mm

Folding deployant clasp, stamped JB 6

36mm diameter

Case, dial and movement signed, dial further signed

Tiffany & Co.

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AC

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Omega Ref. CK988 Rud. Niklaus BerneLot

15

n extremely rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatchwith black dial, telemeter and tachometer scales, retailed by Rud. Niklaus Berne.

The first generation of reference CK 988, recognizable by its widecylindrical bezel, olive shaped start stop pusher at 2 oclock and resetpusher set within the crown is considered to be one of the most beautifulchronograph designs ever made by any watch manufacturer. Its largecase diameter measures 37.5mm, and houses the lovely mono-pushercaliber 33.3 CHRO movement.

The black dial features a silver printed telemeter scale along the outer rimof the dial, as well as a snail-shaped tachometer ring circling along thecenter. In addition to Omegas signature on the dial, this chronograph alsobears the retailer name Rud. Niklaus Berne, heightening the exclusivityof the piece. When a well-established brand pairs with a retailer to signthe dial of a watch it not only adds to the aesthetics, but also makes thetimepiece far more rare. Little is known about Rud. Niklaus Berne, but avariety of examples that can be dated to the first half of the 20th centuryincluding watches and clocks by Omega and Zenith are known today.

The present example is in excellent overall condition, and retains superbproportions and crisp edges. Combining aesthetics, practicality, andcraftsmanship, this versatile and highly collectible watch can be worn forboth sporting and formal events.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

REFERENCE

MOVEMENT

CASE

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 20,000-40,000$20,600-41,10018,200-36,500

ACCESSORIESAccompanied by an Extract from the Archives conrming the date of productionfor the present watch on April 5, 1938 and delivery to Switzerland. Furthermore,the dial is conrmed bearing the retailer name Rud. Niklaus, Berne.

LITERATUREThe present watch is prominently illustrated in the book Omega Sportwatches,John Goldberger, pg. 24-25.

Omega

1938

CK988

9'382'364

9'554'580

Stainless steel

Manual, cal. 33.3 CHRO, 17 jewels

Leather


37.5mm diameter


CR

ISP

SID

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ENC

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K98

8

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33.

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Rolex Ref. 6263 Tiffany & Co.Lot

16

n extremely rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronographwristwatch with silvered dial, tachometer bezel and bracelet, retailed by Tiffany & Co.

To most vintage Rolex collectors, a reference 6263 Oyster CosmographDaytona represents a must have due to their superb aesthetics, legibility,and wearing comfort. To find one with Tiffany-signed dial, as found on thepresent lot, is an extraordinary opportunity.

References 6263 and 6265 were both launched in 1969, replacing thefirst Oyster Cosmograph model, reference 6240. The stainless steelmodel with screw-down pushers was in production for almost 20 years.Bearing serial number 6393159, this lot was manufactured in 1980.Fitting a silvered dial with black sub-dials and its correct black acrylicbezel, the combination creates an eye-catching contrast with the steelcase. Found beneath the Oyster Cosmograph script at 12 oclock is theprestigious Tiffany & Co. retailer signature printed in black.

This sporty yet elegant watch is offered in excellent overall condition withits original, correct early Mark II pushers and its original Oyster bracelet.To any collector, it is a delight to see that the Tiffany receipt is made outin the name of Mr. Kirby Lee in 2010, some 20 years after Mr. Terry Leereceived the watch. We can assume Kirby Lee is possibly the son or aclose relative to Terry Lee, who originally received the watch in 1983.With that in mind, the correctness and rarity of this piece makes it one ofthe most exciting examples of the reference one could hope to own.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

REFERENCE

MOVEMENT

CASE

MODEL NAME

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 50,000-100,000$51,400-102,80045,600-91,200

ACCESSORIESAccompanied by Rolex service card and Tiffany & Co. service center receipt.

Rolex

1980

6263

12091

6393159

Oyster Cosmograph Daytona

Stainless steel


Rolex stainless steel Oyster bracelet, reference

78350/19, end links stamped 571, max. length

Stainless steel deployant clasp, stamped 78350

37.5mm diameter

Case, dial and movement signed. Caseback further

engraved Terry Lee 25 Years Storer 4-9-1983

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TIF

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CO

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Patek Philippe Ref. 1463 FrecceroLot

17

n extremely rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronographwristwatch with two-tone silvered dial, applied Arabic and baton hour markers,outer tachometer scale and bracelet, retailed by Freccero.

We are thrilled and proud to offer this lot, what we believe to be one ofthe best-preserved examples of a stainless steel Patek Philippe ref. 1463wristwatch. Since its launch in 1940, the desirability of the reference1463 has never waned. Alongside its ultra rare sister model, reference1563, it is the only vintage chronograph model by Patek Philippe fittedwith a water-resistant-type case and round chronograph buttons.

The majority of the acclaimed Tasti Tondi, Italian for round pusherswere cased in yellow gold, with a small number cased in steel and rosegold. For collectors of the finest timepieces, the retailers signature ofFreccero is an added treat for this already rare piece. Freccero & Ciawas a prestigious retailer of Patek Philippe watches from Montevideo inUruguay. This watch is the only example known in stainless steel withapplied white gold baton and Arabic hour markers to feature theFreccero designation on the dial. The magnificent example presentedhere comes not only in extraordinary condition, but its dial is alsoconfirmed by the Extract from the Archives.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

REFERENCE

MOVEMENT

CASE

MODEL NAME

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 350,000-700,000$359,700-719,500319,200-638,400

ACCESSORIESAccompanied by an Extract from the Archives conrming the present watchwas manufactured in 1955 and its subsequent sale on 14 March 1957. Furthermore, the watch is offered with its Patek Philippe presentation box, alsosigned by Freccero Y Cia Montevideo Unicos Agentes.

LITERATUREThe present watch is prominently illustrated in Patek Philippe Steel Watches,John Goldberger, pg. 296-297. The model is also illustrated in Patek PhilippeWristwatches by Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, second edition, pg. 267.

Patek Philippe

1955

1463

868840

660184

Tasti Tondi

Stainless steel


Stainless steel Gay Frres bracelet,

max. length 200mm

Stainless steel folding deployant clasp

35mm diameter


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56 START STOP RESET

Few examples of Patek Philippes landmark reference1463 watches have such a presence on the wrist.The stainless steel example here combines manydesirable elements that make it a trophy watch to crowna collection of complicated Patek Philippe wristwatches.The case is immaculate, having most probably neverbeen polished over the course of its 60-year life.The lugs are thick, the bezel is perfectly crisp, and theoverall condition proves that it must have remainedunworn for decades. The two-tone silvered dial positivelyradiates, with a warm cream color tone in its center.The dials hard, raised enamel printing is as crisp andwell defined as the day it left the Patek factory, with nosigns of restorations or imperfections whatsoever.Completing this chronograph wristwatch is a gorgeous,period stainless steel Gay Frres bracelet, that furtherenhances its beauty.

While widely regarded as one of the worlds mostcollectible vintage timepieces and consequently veryvaluable, the stainless steel reference 1463 can becomfortably worn daily thanks to its robust case designand very discreet looks.

58 START STOP RESET

INSI

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CA

SEB

AC

K E

NG

RA

VIN

GS.

Flying High

F rom leonardo da Vincis "ornithopter" to todays Solar Impulse,mans fascination for ying has never waned. The 20th century sawthe arrival of Those Magnicent Men in Their Flying Machines (toborrow from Ken Annakin) and to safely take them off the ground for just a

few meters on Daytona Beach or across the Atlantic Ocean, these pioneers

not only greatly depended on their wristwatch, they even sometimes

designed specic timepieces to suit their needs such as Philip van Horn

Weems or Charles Lindbergh.

From these original adventures of the airs to aviation and naval forces

to the jet set of the 1950s to outer space the nal frontier, the wristwatch

has always played a dening role in the conquest of the skies. For full safety,

the pilot could not rely only on the cockpit instruments but also on a

reliable timepiece with a chronograph function (sometimes even yback

or split-seconds), highly legible with a black dial with luminous markers,

and often a rotating bezel strapped safely on his or her wrist (and even

sometimes on the thigh as to keep the hands rmly on the yoke).

An object of desire today, these pilots wristwatches were life saving

devices in the formative years of aviation, and the varied selection presented

here is reminiscent of a time before champagne and caviar was offered in

rst class, but when pilots wore leather helmets and oxygen masks risking

their lives on each ight.

Universal Genve Space-CompaxLot

18

very rare and attractive stainless steel chronograph with black dial,rotating bezel, rubber chronograph pushers, red chronograph hand and bracelet.

In 1917, Universal Genve created its first ever chronograph wristwatch.Some 18 years later, they launched their first Compax model, with manyvariations to follow. Today, vintage Universal Genves sports watches areespecially sought after thanks to their extraordinary diversity, appealingdesigns, and large, well-proportioned cases.

One of Universals most unusual yet attractive chronograph designs wasthe Space-Compax. Produced in two generations, the present lotbelongs to the first generation, made in limited numbers with a patentedcase design with number 238872.

The present example is fitted with an attractive, all black dial consistentwith the first generation of the model, while the second-generation dialconfiguration features white contrasting subsidiary dials and a large 12oclock hour marker. The Space-Compax was designed for underwateruse, and is fitted with a black rotating bezel and rubber-cappedchronograph pushers. Bold hands, luminous hour markers, and redaccents complement the masculine, oversized case giving it an absolutelymodern appearance despite being nearly half a century old.

The crisp case houses the well-known caliber UG 85 three-registerchronograph. Reference 885104-02 is extremely difficult to come by,and this example presented in exceptional, original condition, is certainlya worthy addition to a world class collection of sports watches.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

REFERENCE

CASE

MODEL NAME

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 6,000-12,000$6,200-12,3005,500-10,900

ACCESSORIESAccompanied by an Extract from the Archives conrming the present watch wasmanufactured in 1966.

Universal Genve

1966

885104/02

2510232

Space-Compax

Stainless steel

Manual, cal. UG 85, 17 jewels

Stainless steel, end links stamped 55,

max length 210mm

Stainless steel folding deployant clasp

37.5mm diameter

Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

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62 START STOP RESET

Universal Genve Aero-CompaxLot

19

very rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatchwith outer blue tachometer scale and memory subsidiary dial.

The Compax was introduced in 1935 as the worlds first chronographwristwatch with hour and minute registers. Members of the armed forcesappreciated this new style for its functionality. The models were availablein different case materials and forms, as well as a variety of dial layoutsusing the names Tri-Compax, Uni-Compax, and Aero-Compax.

The Aero-Compax was first launched in 1941, and this wonderfulexample from 1944 demonstrates how a steel Compax case would havelooked after leaving Universals factory. The watch has this amazing feel ofhaving lived the best possible life, as we hardly see this model in suchcrisp and hardly worn condition. The dial shows a warm ageing with crispprinting, adding to the desirability of the piece.

The present example displays an interesting memory register at the 12oclock position of the dial. This feature allows the user to establish a starttime by engaging the crown on the left hand side. For pilots and militarypersonnel, this was often used to mark the start time of a mission.Presented in overall excellent condition, it is hard to believe this watch isover 70 years old, making this one of the finest examples of an Aero-Compax one could hope to own.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

REFERENCE

MOVEMENT

CASE

MODEL NAME

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 15,000-30,000$15,400-30,80013,700-27,400

ACCESSORIESAccompanied by an Extract from the Archives conrming the present watchwas manufactured in 1944.

Universal Genve

1944

22432

219123

1038115

Aero-Compax

Stainless steel

Manual, cal. UG 285 Dorato, 17 jewels

Leather


38mm diameter


MA

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CA

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85 H

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64 START STOP RESET

Mathey-Tissot Type XXLot

20

n extremely rare, highly attractive and large stainless steel fly-backchronograph with black dial, luminous hour markers, and rotatable bezel.

Mathey-Tissot began delivering chronograph wristwatches to the USArmys Corps of Engineers during the First World War. At first glance,you will be amazed by the striking resemblance of this watch to BreguetsType XX. It is no coincidence, however. The production of Breguetsacclaimed Type XX timepieces were in fact subcontracted to Mathey-Tissot, who manufactured and assembled them for Breguet, inaccordance to the French Ministry of Defenses specification.

The example presented here is believed to be a prototype model. Madefor the Aronautique Navale the French Navys Aviation division, the dialfeatures a large and unusual 15-minute counter at 3 oclock with fiveluminous markers at each 3-minute interval. The hour counter positionedat 6 oclock sets this watch apart however, as this third sub-dial isextremely uncommon, with an estimated 50 examples produced. Nearlyall of these were signed Breguet, making this Mathey-Tissot signedexample exceptionally rare.

The present Type XX watch remains in excellent overall condition, and isan exciting, hardly ever seen example that will delight any collector.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

CASE

MODEL NAME

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 10,000-20,000$10,300-20,6009,100-18,200

Mathey-Tissot

Circa 1960

262684

Type XX

Stainless steel


Leather


38.5mm diameter


INSI

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IMA

GE

OF

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Y-W

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FLY

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66 START STOP RESET

Zenith Red 24 Hour Hand Lot

21

n extremely rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph withblack lacquer dial, red 24-hour hand and additional crown to stop the seconds.

The present wristwatch is an extremely rare example of a sextantchronograph made by Zenith in the mid 1940s. This unusual, hardly everseen timepiece indicates time in 12 hour and 24 hour formats via anadditional, central red hand. The latter, tipped with the letter N for North,made it possible to also calculate compass directions. When thewristwatch is horizontal and the hand hour points towards the sun, thered index points to north.

An additional winding crown located at the 9 oclock position enablesthe wearer to stop the movement and consequently the seconds hand.When releasing the button the movement starts running again, a featurethat is most useful to pilots synchronizing their watches or when settingthe watch to the second according to a radio signal. We have not foundany trace of a similar Zenith being offered at auction, another example hasbeen found by us but with a white dial. It is offered in immaculate overallcondition, with a pristine black lacquered dial and absolutely crisp casethat has never been polished.

The timepiece presented here is one that will make the heart of anycollector beat faster, as it combines rarity, extraordinary condition, and anextremely rare complication.

MANUFACTURER

YEAR

REFERENCE

CASE

MATERIAL

CALIBRE

BRACELET/STRAP

CLASP/BUCKLE

DIMENSIONS

SIGNED

ESTIMATECHF 10,000-20,000$10,300-20,6009,100-18,200

LITERATUREA similar watch is pictured in Zenith: Swiss Watch Manufacture Since 1865 byManfred Rssler page 224. A similar watch with unsigned dial appears on thecover of Chronograph Wristwatches: To Stop Time, Gerd-R Lang, Reinhard Meis.

Zenith

Circa 1945

796131

8474301

Stainless steel

Manual, cal. 143-1-3, 17 jewels

Leather

Stainless steel

35mm diameter


VIE

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IN

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OF

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Omega Ref. 2998-1 TropicalLot

22

very rare and highly attractive stainless steel chronograph wristwatchwith tropical dial, tachometer bezel, bracelet and original presentation box.

Widely known as the first and only watch worn on the moon, thecelebrated Omega Speedmaster is certainly a design icon in the worldof stainless steel chronograph wristwatches. The first Speedmaster,reference 2915, was launched in 1957 and remained in production until1959, when its successor the present lot with reference 2998, wasintroduced. The Speedmaster was targeted for active clientele, solidifyingits position as the official Olympic timekeeper.

The superb example offered her

start-stop-reset: 88 epic stainless steel chronographs [catalogue]

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