Statham’s Quarry Mini Guide

Statham’s Quarry is a fine example of an outdoor gym. It is packed with bolted routes and offers a project for every climber – professional or punter. As a bonus, it is also the ideal venue for a few burnouts or to throw your old TV from the clifftop. Statham’s has been the scene of weddings, movies, abseiling accidents, epic redpoints and many a brownpant moment.

Recently, like Mountain Quarry, a variety of parties have spent considerable time and effort rebolting and removing loose rock from many routes. This has nurtured a resurgence in quarry popularity and added significantly to the value and enjoyment of rock climbing in the quarry.

Routes that have been rebolted, cleaned or otherwise improved with lower-offs include:

Left Lateral Port Side Smidgen Winkler, Chips and Dips, Bat Chain Puller, Hammer and Tongs and Morning Glory.

Special thanks should be given to those doing new routes and the rebolting crews. Please don’t forget to donate to Safer Cliffs WA when you get the chance.

Feedback on the miniguide is very welcome. Descriptions and topos can always be improved. Thanks also to Ross Weiter and the Perth 2002 Guide for lots of text and route descriptions.

© Neil Gledhill 2008. Version 1.0.

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* Agent de France 18m 23Start 3m L of CR. Power up this gym monkey challenge. 4 rings to lower-off. Some pointy holds. Ross Weiter, Jon Gregg, Jan 08** Chain Reaction 20m 23The route takes the overhanging arete on the L of the orange wall past 4 ringbolts to lower-off. Start well right of the first bolt. Climb it quick before it gets downgraded….Best to do the crux then clip the bolt.Andrew Corbe, Alby Tangles 13 Nov 94*** Real Life Ambition 15m 21The pumpy open corner/crack with bolts and lower-offs, 2m R of CR. One of the best climbs in Perth at the grade. Technical, steep, pumpyand lots of fun ! Lower-off and last bolt kindly added by Weiter after FA.Neil Gledhill, Jim Truscott, Wayne Carroll Sept 02** Carbon Dogs 10m 25Start as for NOD sharing 1st BR. Hard traverse L then up finishing on arête with sequenceyclimbing. Hard and pumpy, a credit to the Whizz and his belay monkey. 2FBR and 3BR to lower offs. D. Zonta, M. Rosser Feb 07No Ordinary Determination 10m 22The overhung line to the right of RLA. It is amazing that it has taken so long for this sporting route to be climbed. Climb it like you have a gremlin on your shoulder. A bit tricky near the ground then able across the ledge and up to the high crux. 5BR to lower offs. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 19 Mar 06Mourning 20m 16RClimb the R edge of the large detached block to its top. About 3m from the corner mantelshelf onto the wall, then follow the corner straight up and finish L. Many mourned their inability to make the mantelshelf – it looks so simple.Michael Adams, Tony Fowler about 70

Czech Mate 18m 22A right trending line straight from the gym. A jump start and an intimidating bulge. Very tricky to onsight, especially if you are short.Ross Weiter, Linda Antoncich Jul 04Chickens 18m 26Equipped Corbe. 5m right of CM. Tough for the grade… tougher now the holds have fallen off.Logan Barber Jul 03* The Oubliette 15m 21/22Start just left of LLPSSW at a fixed hanger with a pleasant balancy move off some rubble. Be careful not to fall into the oubliette and risk ensnarement. Classy moves all the way, especially the gaston mantle! The 3rd bolt could be tricky to clip at the grade and some may argue it is superfluous. But so what.Neil Gledhill, Kate Swain, March 08* Left Lateral Port-Side Smidgen Winkler 15m 21Climb past bolts to thin flake crack. Follow the bolted line to the loweroff. No trad gear required. The start can be frustrating. Try starting well R of the bolt and then traversing back left fairly soon.Roark Muhlen-Schultze May 90* All The Young Fascists 15m 24 6 bolts to loweroff. Finesse optional. 2nd bolt can be tricky to get to if you are short..Neil Gledhill Mar 07*** Chips and Dips 20m 26Uber classic sustained thin climbing up the grey line. Technical, HARD and cranky all the way to the loweroff. A Perth testpiece.Roark Muhlen-Schultze May 90Batchain Puller 20m 25Climb the strenuous overhanging groove to second BR. Continue up groove past bolts to loweroff. Recently rebolted – grade and quality of the climb unconfirmed.Roark Muhlen-Schultze Jun 90

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Batchain Puller 20m 25Climb the strenuous overhanging groove to second BR. Continue up groove past bolts to loweroff. Recently rebolted – grade and quality of the climb unconfirmed.Roark Muhlen-Schultze Jun 90Bullseye 20m 25Start 2m R of Batchain Puller, up boulderyarete and up to loweroffs above Hammer and Tongs. Not a bad route, but suffers from having a no hands rest after each hard move. Probably NOT soft for the grade.Emil Mandyczewsky Apr 08** Hammer & Tongs 25m 25Start up R trending ramp L of Short Circuit then up the flake on the L wall. Step left when things get tricky to a balancy stance. Then up and slightly R before a tricky traverse back left. A great climb with an amazing variety of memorable moves.Derek Toulalan, Shane Richardson Jun 92Short Circuit 27m 17XOriginally graded 15, this climb is a serious lead with sharp rock, loose rock and sparse, very poor pro. This is not to say that the climb itself is bad (it is actually quite fun), just that it is a good one to top-rope. Climbs the obvious rightward trending spikey, loose looking line up the main wall.Harry Butler, Gary Matier Dec 89Zombie Man 25m 31Another youngster’s effort to leave his mark on the Perth scene. Many of the holds have been pulled down by abseiler’s feet.Tim Deijkers Mar 05Ersatz 25m 30Many holds have broken off since the first ascent and it is probably unclimbable. A credit to Boyd’s talent.Boyd MacNamara

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* Blah, Blah, Blah 18m, 165 bolts to DBB, the crux is at the 2nd bolt. Ross Weiter, Danilo Zonta, Oct 07* Twenty Easy Steps 20m 17Pad up the smooth slab to stance at 5m and bolt. Up bast more bolts and exciting shothole manoeuvre to loweroff.Ross Weiter, Peter Thomas, Linda Antoncich Feb 03* Mount Everest 18m, 16 Save much $$ and brag to your friends about doing the deed. 6 GIMBsto loweroffs.Ross Weiter, Jon Gregg, Jan 08The Trumpeter 25m 11R Not on topoFollow the R edge of the streaked slab passing to the L of a pinnacle. Climb second small pinnacle and up cracks in wall above (crux). Up grotty groove and R to finish at tree.John Watson and others late 60sJericho Wall 25m 8R Not on topoStart as for previous route. At 2m move R up steep broken rock to ledge, then right up large flake and slabs to final crumbly arete, which is followed to tree.John Watson and others late 60sMacGill’s Doom 25m 15R Not on topoThe corner/chimney R of Jericho Wall. Gerry MacGill 67The Grooves 25m 11R Not on topoStart at the L edge of the main slab and follow grooves straight up, then diagonally right. FA Unknown.Innominate 28m 16R Not on topoStart 3m L of tree. Easy moves lead to extremely smooth slab. Choose most direct line to skyline.Michael Adams and others late 60sSlalom 25m 4 Not on topoThere is an easy route at the broken R side of the central slab, suitable for beginners and as a descent (with care) route.Tramlines 25m 14 Not on topoStart in middle of red slab forming the R part of the main slab. Straight up red streak then into “the tramlines” and up to yellow corner at foot of R wall. Straight up on the L and swing across the face to pull over.Michael Adams, Brian Lever late 60sAdler's Route 25m 16R Not on topoThe last climb of the slab area. Start at the junction of the red slab and the wall. Climb 10m tofoot of corner, then up corner to a large perched block. Continue up broken buttress to L of cavethen finish up L face of buttress on rotten rock.

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* Striding Edge 25m 17RIt was a true test piece in its day but now compromised by the bolts on Strider. This climb is still unprotected until a bolt on Strider is reached around the edge. Start up the sharp grey arete R of the red slab of Tramlines. Onto the wall and move R to the arete, then climb this to stance. Move R, up and across steep wall to finish up crack. DBB at top.Michael Adams, Tony Fowler early 70sStrider 25m 18A tricky start below the first BR, then directly up the arete with thin holds and more BRs. Finish as for Striding Edge. Second bolt is badly placed, but can be reached by piking out to the R.T.Murray, B.Watson May 97Striding Edge Direct 25m 17A trad climb now spoilt by the bolts on the arete to L. Up short wall then climb L trending flake to join Striding Edge. Ignore the gumby bolts and climb in the original spirit.Unknown early 70sShrapnel 25m 19The bolted line between Striding Edge Direct and Gun Barrel Highway. Climb to ledge at half height via the groove or blocky buttress, then straight up to L of revolver shaped rock past 3 BRs. There is a huge and very dangerous loose block down low, and up high the crux holds have broken off – NOT RECOMMENDED.T.Murray, B.Watson May 97Gun Barrel Highway 25m 16R Not on topoAt base of small buttress beneath revolver shaped rock at 2/3 height. From L corner of buttress trend R then onto slab above buttress to belay. Up crack then R to corner at R edge of revolver. Up corner then mantle onto ledge (crux). Move slightly R then finish L. S

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Plummeting Penguins 25m 16 Not on topoStraight up the middle of the wall with 6 glued-in hex bolts. The first half is easy - maybe grade 10 or 11. The crux is going straight up the dark grey, metre wide slot, although many people seem to go left or right, making it a 14 or so.Phillip Calais, Maureen Boyle, Marianne Turner, Nov 06Penguin Master 20m 16 Not on topoStart about 3m to the right of ‘Plummeting Penguins’. Up the easy section, then head right at the … third or fourth bolt… over the blocky rubble section and up about 1 - 1.5 m to the left of ‘Carrot Master’. Then either straight up and clip the last ‘Carrot Master’ bolt, or follow the crack, whacking in a few cams or nuts along the way to the top.Phillip Calais, Nostromo, Marianne Turner, Dec 06Novice Penguins 25m 13 Not on topoStart as for Penguin Master, but then left slightly up the groove at the ... third or fourth bolt. There are a total of 8 glued-in hex-head bolts.Phillip Calais and Matthew Hobby, Feb 07The Crap Game 30m 11 Not on topoStart 7m L of the R edge of the steep friable wall. Up wall to where arete joins main wall. Move up R to inclined shelf leading L. Move L then continue straight up to finish.Michael Adams, Claude Girardin 66* Carrot Master 15m 18The arete forming the left edge of the hanging V corner. 5BRs to double BB. Good positions and nice climbing.Jim Truscott, Matthew Rosser Sep 01Quarry Man 15m 22Start directly below the obvious hanging V-groove. A hard crank leads to very delicate climbing up the groove and slab. Move L to exitgroove, then to top. 4BRs and a 1.5 Friend to DBB.Matthew Rosser, Jim Truscott Sep 01Tear Drop 25m 13To the R of Quarry Man is a rubble-covered recessed area with a 1.5m dolerite dyke. This lies behind the best bouldering block in the quarry. Here was Tear Drop, an ancient classic. The tear drop shaped rock that gave the climb its name fell off many years ago. Climbsomething else.Gerry MacGill 67Lifestyle Refugees 20m 14RLeft side of the pillar past a few spaced bolts. Rock is a bit loose so this is a fairly serious route at the grade. Best finished by clambering over to MG’s lower off.Matthew Rogerson, A. McAllum, Jim Truscott 2 Sep 01Centrepiece 20m 17XThe centre of the pillar, without deviation. An audacious lead on friable edges and without any pro. Tired of living ?P von Kanel, Michael Adams 72*** Morning Glory 20m 17Classic bolted arête climbing to the loweroff. Most step left at the last bolt to easier terrain before going up to the loweroff. Staying strictly on the arête above the last bolts earns you an extra grade or two and some pucker factor.Roark Muhlen-Schultze May 90

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*** Morning Glory 20m 17Classic bolted arête climbing to the loweroff. Most step left at the last bolt to easier terrain before going up to the loweroff. Staying strictly on the arête above the last bolts earns you an extra grade or two and some pucker factor.Roark Muhlen-Schultze May 90** Stolen Glory 15m 22Requires some finesse, if you're clumsy it could be easy 23. A good climb. Start between MG and BNO. Up past 5 bolts to a lower off above the mini arete/corner. There are 2 other bolts to the right of this line below the first bolt of BNO. We did not place them and we didn't write on the rock near the loweroff.Kate Swain, Neil Gledhill Feb 07Bonking Penguins 22 15 mJoins the dots right of SG and trespasses all over BNO. Start about 1 m to the right of SG and L of BNO. Up to the bolt about 2 m to the right of the first SG bolt. Then up and clip the ‘Bonk Night Out’ bolt. Then up again clipping whatever bolts you like to the loweroff. Stay right and out of the tiny corner that is SG. Contrived even more so than most routes. Superfluous bolt exists between SG first bolt and this route’s first bolt. i.e the middle of three bolts roughly aligned horizontally.Phillip Calais, Matthew Hobby, Feb 07* Bonk Night Out 20m 23Start 3m L of Hipster Crack. Climb to high BR on blank wall (reachy clip). Continue L up overhanging bulge (crux) to second BR and on to arete to finish up Morning Glory. Best finished up SG these days. You can also clip the first bolt of Bonking Penguins.Roark Muhlen-Schultze May 90*** Kid Rock 14m 17Starts just left of HC. Excellent balancy climbing up the corner and a pumpy finish makes this a super route.Ross Weiter, Peter Thomas, Linda Antoncich Feb 03** Hipster Crack 20m 15The prominent corner-crack R of Bonk Night Out. Nice climbing to loweroff. FA unknown.Quickie 11m 16Climbs the face R of HC. Kind of hard if you are a beginner.Ross Weiter, Peter Thomas, Linda Antoncich Feb 03Child’s Play 12m 14R edge of wall with HC and Q. A bit of gear or two is handy as you climb the cracked corner and arête to belay on Q.Ross Weiter, Peter Thomas, Linda Antoncich Feb 03Trog 18m 11 Not on topoAround the corner from Hipster Crack is a shallow cave. Bridge the groove of the cave. Break out L to short wall to join the dirt exit of Hipster Crack.Michael Adams, John Watson & Co. early 70s

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The Minidala (V8)The slightly overhanging triangular buttress just R of Trog. Start at the bottom right of the truiangle and jump to squeeze the slopey sides. Once you have hold of the top pull around to the left to a standing position.Logan Barber Apr 04Get Your Hands Off My Bolts 10m 26Up middle of wall around the corner R of Hipster Crack. Ascent faint crack on not so obvious flake, past three FHs.Anthony Bell, Andrew Corbe Feb 92Cornflake 13m 16The corner crack where the short blank wall on the L joins the dark grey side of the buttress. Up the finger crack, into the groove, then finish R up the wall. Michael Adams, Gerry MacGill late 60sPlain Brown Wrapper 20m 16The dark grey L side wall. Stick to the face and do not use any handholds on the pale rock of the top edge. Start at the toe, face climbing leads to the R corner of the overhang. Traverse across groove on good underclings to join Cornflake.Michael Adams, Bill Kershaw 90Phantom Rib 20m 13The earliest route in the quarry. Start at L end of Book Buttress at the arete. Up arete for 4m then R onto wall and back L to avoid bulge (or directly over bulge at 16). Take the L hand crack in the headwall to finish.all and sundry mid 60s* The Spine 25m 14Start in the middle of the slab 2m R of PR. Straight through the overlaps. Higher and slightly R a rock protrudes, this is The Spine – climb it. Exit up the L crack. There are now 3BRs and a loweroff (out of sight). Bolts added by ones who did not know. Grade 16 without the bolts.Michael Adams, Tony Fowler late 60sPreface 13m 16R Not on topo10m to the R of The Spine, around the corner. 2m L of The Book is a very thin crack in the corner. This crack is not much help as most of the moves are on the wall ! At the top of the corner finish it L of The Book.Joe Friend 74The Book 25m 13R Not on topoAt the L end of a steep wall is a grey groove in an arete. Climb the groove for 13m then traverse L through slabs and up overhanging corner to finish.Gerry MacGill and others late 60sFlyleaf 13m 14 Not on topoClimb the iron stain 2m R of The Book then follow shallow stained grooves to the top.Gerry MacGill and others late 60sKay 14m 9 Not on topoStart on big jug 2m R of Flyleaf. Move up slabby groove to roof, lay back on L edge of roof. Traverse L to big jug and follow finger crack to top. Needs #0 RP for crux.unknown dinosaur early 60sFlaked Off 6m 18 Not on topoStart on the R side of south face of middle boulder at the top of the quarry. Up shallow groove and small flakes. Bolt belay on top.Shane Richardson (solo) Dec 90

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