sugar coast - belize first

SUGAR COASTCorozal District in Far Northern Belize

Featuring• Turquoise bays • Relaxed Mexican-Belizean ambience • Shipstern Nature Reserve • Maya sites • Sugar cane

RatingsRatings are on a scale of 0 to 10. Best is 10.

Natural Beauty: 6Wildlife & Birding: 6Hotels: 4Restaurants: 3Beaches: 2Bugs: 7Health & Hygiene: 6Fishing: 6Diving & Snorkeling: 2Maya Sites: 7Attractions: 2Adventure: 6Value: 10Safety: 8Cultural Tourism: 4Shopping: 2Overall Rating: 7

Corozal & the Sugar Coast / 61

What to ExpectFew Belize travelers, except some passing through from Mexico, pay

much attention to Corozal District and its main population center, CorozalTown. The district has only about a dozen hotels with fewer than 150 totalrooms; annual occupancy is under 20%, falling to as low as 13% in the off-season. That’s a shame, because this part of Northern Belize is one of thefriendliest, safest, least expensive and most interesting areas of the entirecountry. The “Sugar Coast” is a place to slow down, relax and enjoy at least afew days of easy living by the beautiful turquoise waters of Corozal Bay andthe Bay of Chetumal. True, there’s not a whole lot to see here, not a lot oftourist sites, no real beaches though nice swimming is yours in the bays andlagoons, and few memorable hotels or restaurants. But the climate isappealing, with less rain than almost anywhere else in Belize, fishing isexcellent, and the sunny disposition of residents — Mestizos, Creoles, Maya,Chinese, East Indians and even North Americans — is infectious.

The slow pace of Corozal may be set to change. The Corozal Free Zone,just south of the Santa Elena border crossing, is starting to make a name foritself as a place for businesses to set up free from many of the restrictions andhigh import duties of the rest of Belize. Mexicans come here for cheap gas.The Free Zone now employs more than 1,000 Belizeans. After some fits andstarts, it looks as if this part of Belize may get gambling. A Mexicanbusinessman reportedly plans a Las Vegas-style casino in the Free Zone. Pro-gaming interests say that casinos near Chetumal could attract Mexicans andtourists from the Cancun-Tulum corridor, as Mexico does not permit casinogambling. Opponents say that gaming attracts the wrong type of investor, thatgambling is unlikely to produce big results since the population is small, thatneither Chetumal or Corozal Town presently has much in the way of tourisminfrastructure such as a major airport, and that it takes five hours to go by caror bus from Cancun.

Lay of the LandCorozal District is 718 square miles in area. The largest town by far is

Corozal Town, with about 12,000 residents. Spanish is spoken more widelythan English here, although you can get by in English at least in Corozal Town.The town is laid out on a small grid, with the most appealing part along thebayfront, with its colorful houses and market. Nearby on and near theNorthern Highway are “suburbs” — the small villages of Ranchito, Xaibe,Calcutta, San Antonio and others.

Corozal Town is about 83 miles by road from the International Airport inLadyville and 9 miles from the Mexican border. As you go north from CorozalTown to the border, you pass La Laguna de Cuatro Millas (Four Mile Lagoon)on the right and the Corozal Free Zone complex. The border, marked by the

62 / Mainland Belize

Hondo River and the small village of Santa Elena, has on the Belize side abustling little frontier station. The Santa Elena crossing processes about 250 to300 arrivals to Belize on a typical a day, a few of them international touristsarriving by bus but most Mexicans coming for cheap gas or Belizeans returningfrom shopping trips. Just north of the border is the city of Chetumal, capital ofthe Mexican state of Quintana Roo and, with a population of more than100,000, larger than any city in Belize.

The district can be divided into two hemispheres. The left, or west,hemisphere is sugar cane country, once anchored by Libertad, the now-closedsugar cane processing plant and farther north by Corozal Town on Corozal Bay.The main road artery of this hemisphere is the Northern Highway, a good two-lane paved road. From the southern edge of Corozal District near San Pablovillage, it is about 28 miles to the Mexican border at Santa Elena. Consejo andConsejo Shores, about 7 miles from Corozal Town on an all-weather unpavedroad, on Corozal Bay, have attracted a small number of expats.

The right, or east, hemisphere, is the Sarteneja peninsula. This peninsulahas far more trees than people. It is an area mostly of swamp and savannah,with the bulk of the peninsula’s small population living in villages along thebeautiful Progresso Lagoon and Chetumal Bay. For visitors, the main reason tocome here is the Shipstern Nature Preserve, a 22,000-acre park managed by theBelize Audubon Society. The little fishing village of Sarteneja is charming aswell. An all-weather mostly unpaved road runs from Orange Walk Town toSarteneja village, a distance of about 40 miles.


The seafront at Sarteneja village

30-Second HistoryThe Maya have lived in what is now Corozal — the name is from the

Yucatec Maya name for the cohune palm — since at least 2000 BC. Theyestablished the Maya city of Chetumal, now represented by the Santa Ritaarcheological site, around that time. Santa Rita, where only a few buildingsremain visible today, was an important Maya center because it controlled traderoutes up and down the coast and into the Petén. Cerros, across Chetumal Bay,was a busy Maya maritime trade center from around 400 BC to 100 AD. TheSpanish arrived in the 16th century and eventually were successful inconquering the area that is now the Yucatán and northern Corozal District.

Modern Corozal was settled mostly by Mestizo refugees from the MexicanCastes Wars of the mid-19th century, when Mayas fought to drive Mestizosfrom the Yucatán. In 1955, much of the town was destroyed by HurricaneJanet. It was rebuilt combining Mexican and Caribbean styles. Sugar cane haslong been the leading industry in Corozal District, and while sugar cane fieldsstill honeycomb the district, weak sugar prices have hurt the local economy.Fishing and boat building are important on the Sarteneja peninsula, and herealso Mennonites have developed successful farms. Smuggling, mainly drugsand also inexpensive beer and household goods from Mexico, is an importantindustry in the district.

Getting ThereFrom Mexico: ADO (tel. in Mexico 525-133-2424; [email protected]; www.adogl.com.mex) and other Mexican bus lines serveChetumal from various towns and cities in the Yucatán, including CuidadCancun, Mérida and Playa del Carmen. Fares, on first class and deluxe buses— with reserved seats, videos, and bathrooms — are around US$10 to $15depending on the origin and class of service. It’s about five hours fromCancun, six from Playa del Carmen or Mérida. At the Chetumal bus station,you change to a Batty or Venus bus to Corozal Town (fare US 75 cents).Buses leave Chetumal for Corozal Town and points south beginning at 4 a.m.,and currently the last bus is at 6:30 p.m. Venus buses leave from the NuevoMercado station and Batty from the main Chetumal terminal. At the border,marked by a bridge over the Rio Hondo, you get off the bus to go throughcustoms and immigration and then reboard for the 15-minute ride into CorozalTown. Money changers here pay a higher rate than the 2 Belize to 1 US dollaryou generally get in Belize. A taxi into Corozal Town from the border is aboutUS$10. AeroCaribe (tel. 52-98-84-2000 in Cancun or 501-2-77185 in BelizeCity; e-mail [email protected]; www.aerocaribe.com.mx) currently fliesdaily from Cancun to Chetumal, and from there you can take a taxi to theborder. AeroCaribe also has service several days a week from Cancun toBelize City.


From points south in Belize: The Northern Highway is one of Belize’s bestroads. Figure about two hours by car from Belize City. Batty (tel. 501-2-72025) and Venus (tel. 501-2-77390) are the primary Belize bus lines on theNorthern Highway, with frequent service in both directions. Schedules areavailable on the Web at www.belizecentral.net/bus_schedule/schedule.html.Fares are about US$4-6 to Belize City, depending on the type of bus. Mostbuses on this route are retired school buses or other older equipment, but a fewexpress air conditioned buses also serve it. Maya Island Air (tel. 501-2-31140; www.AmbergrisCaye.com/islandair/index.html orwww.mayaairways.com) and Tropic Air (tel. 501-2-45671 or 800-422-3435 inthe U.S.; www.ambergriscaye.com/tropicair/index.html or www.tropicair.com)fly from Corozal’s tiny airstrip to San Pedro, Ambergris Caye (20 minutes,US$32-$37 one way). Both offer two or three flights daily. The airstrip is about2 miles south of town, a US$5 cab ride. Purchase tickets at most local hotels.

Crime and Personal SafetyCorozal is one of the safest places in Belize. Even so, burglary and

property theft are fairly common. Follow the usual traveler’s precautions.

Water and ElectricityCorozal Town and surrounding villages are on the power grid and

generally have municipal water supplies with potable water. If in doubt, asklocally. Sarteneja and other remote areas have less modern infrastructures.Drink bottled water unless you know the source.

What to See and DoSightseeing and activity ratings are based on a scale of one to fivestars. ✰✰✰✰✰ Extraordinary — don’t miss it.✰✰✰✰ Outstanding — one of the best of its type in Belize and

worth a detour.✰✰✰ Noteworthy — worth your time.✰✰ Interesting — above average of its type.✰ Try to visit if in the area.

Ho hum, Corozal Town has few must-see attractions. It’s more of a placejust to visit, wander around the main plaza or waterfront, have a soft drink orbeer and enjoy the Latin-Caribbean ambiance. Outside of Corozal Town, ifyou have the time and hemorrhoids for it, you really must drive up theSarteneja peninsula to experience Belize off-the-beaten track. Also, go for aswim in Four Mile Lagoon or a take a boat or fishing trip in the beautiful Bayof Chetumal.

✰ Corozal Cultural Centre and Museum. You’ll recognize this place,


in a landmark building over 100 years old, by its clock tower and yellow roof.In the waterfront park near the new market, the building was renovated withUSAID help in 1996. The museum has, among other interesting artifacts,hand-blown rum bottles, a traditional Maya thatch hut and displays from thelighthouse that once stood on this site. Tel. 501-4-23176. Open Tues.-Sat. 9a.m.-noon, 1-4:30 p.m. Admission US$1.50.

Corozal Town Hall. Peak in for a look at the mural by Manuel VillamarReyes. It depicts the region’s history. Nearby, in the center of town, are theruins of Fort Barley, built to thwart attacks by Maya Indians.

Crossing the Border to ChetumalOne of Belize’s two main land border crossing points is north of Corozal

Town at Santa Elena (the other is at Benque Viejo del Carmen in Cayo.) TheRio Honda marks the boundary between Belize and Mexico.

Once across the border, some knowledge of Spanish is helpful. As of August 1, 2000, the Belize government imposes a US$10 exit fee for

adults over 12 leaving Belize by land. The rate likely will increase to US$15after January 1, 2001. Students with student IDs pay US$5. Save your receipt;this fee can be credited against your exit tax when you leave Belize by air, ifyour stay in Mexico is less than 48 hours. This special border tax is in additionto the US$3.75 Protected Areas Conservation Trust fee which also is collectedwhen leaving Belize by land (again, save your receipt to get credit when youleave by air.)

Mexico has introduced a nationwide entrance fee of about US$17. Youusually do not have to pay it if you are going only 20 miles or fewer into thecountry.

You can change money at the border. At press time, a good exchange ratewas about 9.25 Mexican pesos to 1 U.S. dollar. Money changers at the borderalso often give a better U.S. dollar-Belize dollar exchange rate than do banks orhotels in Belize. The rate you get varies, depending on the current level ofdemand for U.S. dollars.

Maya Sites✰✰ CerrosHistory: Cerros was an important jade and obsidian trading center during theLate Preclassic Period, with its heyday being from 400 BC to 100 AD. Thesite apparently suffered an economic decline and was abandoned in the EarlyPreclassic period after 250 AD.Excavations: This site is on 53 acres on a hill beside the Bay of Chetumal.Cerros was first studied by the amateur archeologist Thomas Gann in the early1900s. It was surveyed and excavated by David Freidel of Southern MethodistUniversity in the 1970s. More recently a group of archeologists includingDebra Walker, Kathryn Reese-Taylor and Beverly Mitchum Chiarulli brought


to light several new structures including a ball court and a major monument.What You Can See Now: Three main structures have been excavated, alongwith plazas and ball courts. One structure rises about 70 feet. The site is ofspecial interest because of its location overlooking the Bay of Chetumal. Itswaterfront location is reminiscent of the better-known Tulum site in theYucatán. How to Get There: A new pedestrian and auto ferry across the New River hascut travel time to Cerros (see below). An even faster, though more costly,way is by boat from Corozal Town. Expect to pay at least US$25 for someonewith a skiff to take you and your party to Cerros, about 15 minutes away. Ifyou go via Orange Walk Town, Cerros is about 55 miles from Corozal via theNorthern Highway to Orange Walk, then on the mostly unpaved road to SanEstavan, Progresso village and Cerros. Buses run frequently from CorozalTown to Orange Walk Town but much less frequently to the Sartenejapeninsula. Ask locally for current days and times. Hours and Cost: Daily 8 a.m.-4 p.m., US$2.50

✰ Santa RitaHistory: The Santa Rita archeological site is thought to be a small remnant ofthe Maya city of Chetumal, or Chactemal, an important Maya center since itcontrolled trade routes along the coast and into what is now Mexico andGuatemala. This center was occupied by the Maya from at least 2000 BC tothe 16th century AD.Excavations: Thomas Gann worked here around the turn of the 20th century.Systematic excavations were by Diane and Arlen Chase from 1979 to 1985.What You Can See Now: Only a small area has been excavated, and it isthought that much of the ancient city of Chetumal is now covered by the townof Corozal. One large Post Classic structure with several chambers isexcavated and open to visitors.How to Get There: Santa Rita is located on a small hill at the northwest edgeof Corozal Town on the road to the border. Follow the main road through townand when it forks bear to the left toward the border. The site is near Corozalhospital and the power plant.Hours and Cost: Daily 8 a.m.-4 p.m., US$2.50

Corozal and Consejo Lodging Price categories are for in-season double without meals, not including7% hotel room tax or service charge, if any. To make comparisonsequitable, rates for hotels which include meals or other items in the tariffare adjusted, reflecting an estimated cost for room only. However,specific rates shown in the listings below are actual rates but do notinclude 7% hotel room tax, 8% sales tax on meals or service charge,unless otherwise stated.


Most hotels listed, except low-cost budget places, receive a star ratingof from one to five stars. Only a few hotels in the country are rated fivestars. Keep in mind that, although there is no direct correlation betweenthe price of a hotel room and the hotel’s star rating, three- to five-starhotels are likely to be considerably more expensive than average.Some travelers may be willing to accept a lower level of amenities andservices in exchange for a lower price, or they may even prefer stayingin inexpensive lodging to better appreciate the local culture.

★★★★★ One of the top hotels in the Caribbean, well-run with striking location and/or facilities.

★★★★ One of the best hotels in Belize, with a dependably high level of hospitality.

★★★ Excellent accommodations, with above-average amenities, service and/or hospitality.

★★ Good accommodations and often a very good value.★ Functional accommodations, meeting basic needs,

and often a good value.

Under US$75★★★ Casablanca by the Sea. John and Beverly Tempte bought an oldbuilding in Consejo, next to the customs office, and did a great job developingthis small inn. Beverly runs it, along with operating a restaurant in the CorozalFree Zone. The carved mahogony doors are museum-quality, and the rooms,if on the small side, are tastefully furnished and very attractive. Enjoy thelights of Chetumal across the bay from the waterfront suite — with a queenbed, A/C, TV, bar and private baths, the best room in the house — or from thefirst-floor 50-seat restaurant and bar. Rates: US$60 in-season, US$40 doubleJune-August. AE, MC, V accepted. P.O. Box 212, Consejo Village; tel. 501-501-4-38018; fax 4-38003; e-mail [email protected];www.cbbythesea.com. In Consejo village on the water, next to the customsshed.

★★★ Corozal Bay Inn. This tropically pink new place at the South End ofCorozal Town has four two-bedroom suites, complete with kitchens. Suites arefully furnished down to the coffee maker and have cable TV and daily maidservice. You can doze in a hammock on your veranda, cooled by the breezefrom the bay, and there’s a 600-ft. pier for swimming, fishing and boating. Runby Doug Podzun, a Canadian-Belizean, and his wife Maria, a Mexican-Belizean, this place is a great value for families or for those looking for a placeto stay a few weeks while shopping for land or a home. Rates are US$50double, $10 additional per person (children under 12 free.) Long-term rates


available. MC, V accepted. P.O. Box 184, Corozal Town; tel. 501-4-22691;www.corozalbayinn.com; e-mail [email protected]. South End off theNorthern Highway just south of Tony’s.

★★★ Tony’s Inn & Beach Resort. For almost 30 years, Tony’s has been apopular stopping place for visitors passing through from Mexico. Of the 24rooms with private baths, the “Deluxe Plus” digs are the way go to here —they’re big, with cable TV, king or two double beds, tile floors and some ofthe coldest air-conditioning in Belize. The old “Y Not” beach bar has beenreplaced by a fancy new bar and grill by the bay, though it still has a thatchroof. Tony’s has a marina and all the usual hotel amenities. The hotel claimsa beach, although it’s really more of a patch of ground with imported sand.The renovated, enlarged restaurant is where gringos go for a splurge. RatesUS$50-70 double in-season, US$10 less rest of year. AE, MC, V accepted.P.O. Box 12, South End, Corozal Town; tel. 501-4-22055, fax 4-22829; [email protected]; www.belizenet.com/tonysinn. At the south end of town, on thebay.

Under US$50★★★ Hok’ol K’in Guesthouse. Hok’ol K’in (a Yucatec Maya phrase for“coming of the rising sun”) is a nine-room motel just across the street from thewater. It’s run by a former Peace Corps worker/teacher and her Belizeanpartner. There’s no air-conditioning, but most times you don’t miss it thanksto the stiff breeze from the bay. The restaurant serves inexpensive breakfasts,burgers and snacks. Unusual for Belize, one room is wheelchair-accessible.No TVs in rooms, but the guest lounge has TV, VCR and a small library.There are private baths, but used tissue goes in trash cans, not toilets. Thehotel offers inexpensive and interesting tours, including one that visits localschools. Rates: US$40 double year-round. AE, MC, V accepted. Highlyrecommended. P.O. Box 145, Corozal Town; tel. 501-4-23329; fax 4-23569;e-mail [email protected]; www.corozal.com/tourism/hotels/hokolkin.htm. About 2blocks south of the market.

★ Hotel Maya. This 20-room concrete hotel across the street from the baytoward the south end of town is definitely not deluxe, but the rooms we’veseen are clean, all have private baths and cable TV, some have A/C, and there’sa pretty good restaurant on site. Rosita May (pronounced “My”) is themanager. About US$25 double for a basic room with fan, to around $50 for anupgraded room with A/C and TV. MC, V accepted. P.O. Box 112, CorozalTown; tel. 501-4-22082, fax 4-22827; e-mail [email protected];www.corozal.com/tourism/hotelmaya. Across the street from the bay, betweenHok’ol K’in and Tony’s.


★★ Smuggler’sDen. If you want toget away from it all,in a small villagewith nicely doneaccommodations nearthe water, Smuggler’sDen in Consejo couldbe the ticket for you.The bungalows herehave stucco wallsand a thatch top, withfully equippedkitchens and privatebaths. There’s even asmall human-assistedbeach and a bar andrestaurant, which canget a little noisy onweekends. Note thevintage Airstreamtrailer parked nearthe cottages. Ratesaround US$40.About 7 miles northof Corozal Town inConsejo—turn leftjust before you get tothe village.

Under US$25★ CaribbeanVillage. One of

Corozal’s original places to stay, Caribbean Village has five small and quitebasic thatch cabañas with private baths, plus a campground and RV parkingarea, across the road from the water. Owners Henry and Joan Menzies arehelpful and friendly. The restaurant, Hailey’s, may be open when you’re there,though it was closed at press time. Rates: US$20 double year-round for thethatch cabañas. South End, Corozal Town; tel. 501-4-22725, fax 4-23414;www.corozal.com/tourism/hotels/caribvillage.htm.

★ Central Guesthouse. Simple in-town guesthouse in a one-story concretebuilding with plenty of burglar bars. The Pakistani owner, Gulzar Rana, goes


The little “human assisted” beach at Smuggler’sDen in Consejo

by the name John. Rates are budget-level, at under US$15 a day. Weekly ratesare around US$50, monthly from US$150. 22 6th Ave., Corozal Town; tel.501-4-22358; fax 4-23335; e-mail [email protected] or [email protected].

★ Nestor’s. This long-established budget hotel in the middle of town hasbeen remodeled. Popular bar and restaurant. Rates under US$20. 5th Ave.South, Corozal Town; tel. 501-4-22354; e-mail [email protected].

Closed Hotels: We still get questions about the famed Adventure Inn inConsejo, Bill Wildman’s place. It closed years ago, although Bill Wildman isstill around — he developed the Consejo Shores subdivision, sells real estateand does landing surveying. Don Quixote, another place in the Consejo area,also closed, and attempts to remodel and reopen it so far haven’t beensuccessful, though we’re told it may actually be open before long. SantaCruz Lodge near Libertad, which was a nice place but usually without anyguests, also has closed.

RV Parks/CampgroundsLagoon Campground. While nothing fancy, this is one of the nicer RV parksand campgrounds we’ve seen in Belize. Owner Bill Dixon, a U.S. expat, builtthe campground and his house himself. Attractive grounds on Four MileLagoon. Equipped with water, sewer and electric for RVs and trailers. Tentsites are US$5 a night (US$25 a week), RVs US$15 (US$90 a week). Also inthis area are several other small places on the lagoon where you can pitch atent or park your trailer.

Caribbean Village. The area’s original campground and RV parking area atthe south end of town, across the road from the water. Campsites are US$10,RV sites around US$17. Co-owner Henry Menzies is knowledgeable andhelpful. South End, Corozal Town; tel. 501-4-22725, fax 4-23414.

Corozal Restaurants and NightlifeCafé Kelá. I looked at my check here and couldn’t believe it. The total dinnertab, for my snapper filet sauteed in herbs with a big serving of pommes frites,washed down with a couple of glasses of delicious fresh-squeezed lime juice,came to under five U.S. bucks. And this is no dive. It’s a charming little bistro— there are only five tables — in a thatch palapa framed by bougainvilleaacross the street from Corozal Bay. The menu offers seafood, crepes andcassolets. Most items have a French twist, as co-owner Stephan Moerman isoriginally from France. His wife Marguerite is a Corozaleña. Café Kelá isnamed for the couple’s children, Kevin and Lela. No alcohol is served, but youcan bring your bottle. Highly recommended: This is one of the bestrestaurants in Belize and one of the best values. Tel. 501-4-22833. On First


Avenue on the bay about a quarter mile north of Corozal Cultural Center.Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Casablanca. This 50-seat restaurant in Consejo has a nice setting with viewsof the lights of Chetumal across the bay. Tel. 501-4-23452.

Hok’ol K’in. Good place to get a cheeseburger and a cold drink. Tel. 501-4-23329.

Bayview. Inexpensive Belizean and Mexican food. Near the market on thewater. No phone.

Jo-Mel-In. Stew chicken, fresh fish, beans and rice and other daily specialsare inexpensive and tasty. Good breakfasts, too. At 5th Ave. and 2nd St.; tel.501-4-22526.

Nestor’s. Locals and backpackers gather here for a beer and inexpensiveBelizean-American food. In the center of town at 123 5th Ave.; tel. 501-4-22354.

Tony’s. You’ve seen those signs that say, “Where the Elite Come to Eat andGreet”? In Corozal, that’s Tony’s. It’s also where better-heeled gringos andBelizean government officials grab a good breakfast or hearty — if fairlypricey — dinner of lobster, steak or chicken. A new area adjoining the hotellobby was constructed about three years ago, greatly expanding and upscalingthe restaurant. In good weather, there’s outside dining with a view of the bay.At the south end of town. Tel. 501-4-23555.

Several cheap Chinese and Mexican places, favored by locals, are in or nearthe market. North of Corozal Town along Four Mile Lagoon are several smallspots where you can get a soft drink or beer and relax by the lagoon. These getbusiness mostly from Belizeans on weekends and from visitors passing throughfrom Mexico. Among them: Riverol’s Cool Spot, Godfrey’s Place and Kich-Pam-Ham, usually called Alcala’s.

GamblingSeveral casinos may eventually be built in and near Corozal Free Zone justsouth of the border. At press time, none was yet in operation.

Sarteneja PeninsulaGetting to Shipstern Nature Reserve by driving up the Sarteneja peninsula ishalf the fun. To get there by road, you must go all the way south to OrangeWalk Town and turn left onto the road to San Estevan. The first part of the


road is paved, but then it becomes limestone gravel and dirt. It’s usually wellmaintained and passable in all weather. About 12 1/2 miles from Orange WalkTown, the road forks. If you go straight, you’re heading to Progresso andCopper Bank (pronounced Bonk) villages and eventually to the Cerros Mayasite. Instead, if you turn right, you will be going to Little Belize, Chunox(pronounced Shu-nosh) village, Shipstern and Sarteneja village. Little Belize isa Mennonite area and you can expect to see horse drawn Mennonite carts onthe road. To the left is the Progresso Lagoon, one of the most beautiful lagoonsin Belize. At about 34 miles from Orange Walk Town, you will come to theShipstern Nature Preserve. The entrance is at about Mile 36 1/2 as measuredfrom Orange Walk Town.

A new ferry across the New River also provides access to Cerros and theShipstern peninsula. The 90-ft.-long, hand-pulled ferry, made from an old sugarbarge, carries pedestrians and four to five vehicles on a nine-minute trip acrossthe river. It operates from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily; at present, there’s no charge.To get to the ferry from Corozal Town, take the Northern Highway southtoward Orange Walk Town to just south of Jal’s Travel and Paula’s Gift Shop.Turn left, and follow the road (and the power lines) for 2 1/2 miles to the ferrylanding. When you disembark the ferry, you’re about 2 1/2 miles from CopperBank village, and about 5 1/2 miles from Progresso. If you don’t have a car,you may be able to hitch a ride, or hail down a Venus bus from Orange Walk.

✰✰ Shipstern Nature Reserve is owned by the International TropicalConservation Foundation, based in Switzerland, with management by theBelize Audubon Society. The reserve consists of about 22,000 acres of salinelagoon systems, mangrove swamp, hardwood forests and savannah. Wildlifehere is varied and abundant. Most of Belize’s mammals (except monkeys) havebeen found here. The jaguar and the other four of Belize’s wild cats arepresent, though it is unlikely you will see one. More than 200 species ofbirds, 200 species of butterflies and 60 species of reptiles and amphibians havebeen identified in the reserve. A cleared botanical walking trail begins nearthe visitor center. At one time, Shipstern had an active butterfly breedingprogram, exporting pupae, but at present there is only a small education areawith a few butterflies flying. Wherever you go in the reserve, taking plenty ofbug juice. This area was devastated by Hurricane Janet in 1955, with many ofits old trees blown down, but it mostly has been regenerated. The visitor centerand butterfly farm are open on an informal basis. Don’t expect a crowd,because few visitors venture this far off the beaten track. Look for a caretakerwhen you arrive. Admission to the botanical trail and butterfly center is US$5(US$1 for Belizeans). For further information, contact the Belize AudubonSociety: P.O. Box 1001, Belize City; tel. 501-2-34533, fax 2-34985; [email protected]; www.belizeaudubon.org.


Cerros LodgingUnder US$25★ The Last Resort, a new spot at the mouth of Laguna Secca and the Bay ofCorozal in the village of Copper Bank, has small thatch cabins withkitchenettes for US$17.50 double (if you book for a week you only pay for fivenights), or US$12.50 in simple huts with outhouses. Operated by DonnaNoland and Enrique Flores, The Last Resort also has a restaurant, withBelizean basics plus American-style burgers, and a bar. AE, MC, V accepted.Tel. 501-4-12009, www.corozal.com/district/lastresort/.

Sarteneja LodgingDiana’s Hotel has closed, but Fernando’s Seaside Guest House (tel. 501-4-32085) and Krisami’s Bayview Lodge (tel. 501-4-32283, fax 4-32247) offerclean, low-frills accommodations at low-moderate prices. Cabins at theShipstern reserve may be available for US$10 per night — contact the BelizeAudubon Society at 501-2-34533, e-mail [email protected].

Corozal District PracticalitiesBanks: Scotia Bank, Belize Bank and Atlantic Bank have branches inCorozal Town.Internet Access: The DHL express office across from Atlantic Bank offersInternet access for US$9 an hour. They also offer fax, photocopying and maildrop services. Some hotels have Internet access and may allow you to checkyour e-mail for a small charge.Groceries: U-Save Super at 4th Ave. and 2nd St. South, across from themarket—locally called Mirna’s after the owner, Mirna Gomez—is where mostexpats shop in Corozal. Mirna stocks items that are hard to find elsewhere,such as whole wheat bread. Reyes on 4th Ave. may be less expensive butdoesn’t have as wide a selection.Real Estate: One reputable and well-established real estate guy is BillWildman at Belize Land Consultants in Consejo Shores (P.O. Box 35,Corozal Town, tel. 501-4-38005, fax 4-38006; [email protected];www.consejoshores.com or www.belizelandconsultants.com.). U.S. developersare actively selling land near Cerros—buyer beware.Schools and Colleges: Corozal Community College and Corozal JuniorCollege are two local schools.Medical: Corozal Town has a district hospital and several doctors. Chetumaloffers low-cost and often high-quality dental and medical care.Information: The Web site www.corozal.com, produced mostly by students atCorozal Community College and Corozal Junior College, provides an excellentintroduction to the area.


What Readers SayCASABLANCA-BY-THE-SEA, in Consejo overlooking the Bay of Chetumal, is asweet little hotel. We have just come back from Belize, having spent three weeks there.For 10 days in the middle of our holiday we hired a car and tried to see as much of thecountry as possible. Nothing was pre-booked, we would just look at the map, find ahotel symbol and off we’d go. One such expedition took us to Corozal, and out the otherside, to Consejo. We were looking for the Adventure Inn, which was recommended inone of our guide books, but when we found it, it was very obviously closed. A quicktour of Consejo didn’t look very promising — a sleepy little village with a customs postand little else. However, a second circuit of the village (it doesn’t take long!) revealed asmall modern hotel nestling in the bougainvillea. Yes, of course they had a room for acouple of nights. We chose a first floor room with A/C, and while it was being madeready, sat on the terrace with cold beers admiring the view across the bay to Chetumal.It is a very tranquil spot, with a small harbour and good swimming from the end of thepier — perfect for relaxing. The staff couldn’t be more helpful or courteous, evenaccommodating our vegetarianism in the restaurant. We had a great time there. JacquiHenderson and Stephen Tyler, London, England

After a two years ofresearch and preparationI’ve traveled to CorozalTown for an extendedstay. My purpose forcoming was to find aslower pace of life.When I first arrived Istayed in a cabaña at theCARIBBEANVILLAGE. Except forthe noise from theNorthern Highway thearea is quiet. The cabañawas basic with two bedsand a hot shower. Thebest restaurant that I havefound in Corozal isCAFE KELA, across thestreet from the bay onFirst Avenue about one-forth mile north of themuseum. It has only fivetables and the lady whoprepares the meals haslived in France. Thevariety, quality and pricesare all good. Alan Pasho,Corozal Town, Belize


Elementary school in Sarteneja


Detail of the carved doors at Casablanca by the Seain Consejo

sugar coast - belize first

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