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Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee

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Page 1: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles.

FICCI, Mumbai

Supported by Textiles Committee

Page 2: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Overview of Zari industry• No of units-15770

• Artisans Mfg product-1.05 lakh

• Artisans providing support service-0.50 lakhs.

• Equal numbers are benefiting indirectly.

• Total turnover –Rs. 400 crore per annum.

• Provides much needed raw material to sectors like textiles, handicrafts,etc.

Page 3: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Why GI? • Prepare the industry to the global

challenge.

• Protect the product from infringement.

• Ensure legal rights to manufacturers.

• May help in brand building and further market expansion of the product.

Page 4: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Pre-Requisite for GI • Awareness • Study & Documentation

• Historical Origin

• Geographical Region• Production process• Product profile• Uniqueness• How it contributes to sustainability of

stakeholders• Filing of application• Post application follow up

Page 5: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Historical Perspective

• Art of zari making was prevalent in India since ancient times

• The Ramayana, Mahabharata, Rigveda, etc mentioned about Zari craft.

• Megasthenes has also mentioned about the craft in third century B.C.

Page 6: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

• Zari industry florished during Muslim rule in India.

• Surat port was important for Haj pilgrims.

• The pilgrims use to stay in Surat for long prior to sail Mecca and spend lavishly on handicrafts.

• During 16th century zari further florished due to patronage of Moguls.

• During Moghuls zari was also exported to middle east.

Historical Perspective (Contd..)

Page 7: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

• In 1614, British- East India Company came to Surat forexporting zari and related products to Middle-east andEuropean Countries.

• “Birdwood” in his book “ The Industrial Art of India”(1880) mentioned Delhi and Lahore and Surat asthriving centre of Zari industry.

• Zari Inquiry Committee Report, 1957 has alsomentioned about the importance of industry in thereport.

Historical Perspective (Contd..)

Page 8: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

• During Oudh kingdom, the zari craft wasconcentrated in Surat.

• The district admeasures 7745kms and accountsfor 3.95 per cent of the States total geographicalarea.

• It lies between 20 dgree 47’ and 21dgree 34’north latitude and 72 dgre 21’ and 74 dgre 20’east longitude

Geographical Coverage-I

Page 9: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Geographical Coverage-II

Navapura, Wadifalia, Mahidharpura, Sagrampura,

Saiyedpura, Rampura, Gopipura, Udhna, etc.

Page 10: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Production ProcessProcurement of Raw Material

& Preparation

Melting of silver/Copper

Zari Thread Preparation

Drawing of silver/copper wire

Electroplating & Packing

Page 11: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Raw Materials Used

Pure Zari• Cotton yarn• Silk• Art Silk• Silver• Gold

Imitation Zari• Cotton yarn• Silk• Art Silk• Copper• Silver

Page 12: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Pure Zari Production

• Stage I Silver wire drawingmachine (RealZari)”Patla”

Page 13: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Pure Zari Production

• Stage II: Drawing of silver wireinto finer stage

Page 14: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Pure Zari Production

• Stage III:Flattening of silver wire “Flattening Process”

Page 15: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Pure Zari Production

• Stage IV: Wrapping of flat silverwire on base yarn toform real zari ”BitaiProcess”

Page 16: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Pure Zari Production

• Stage V: Pure gold gilding onreal zari thread

Page 17: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Pure Zari Production

• Stage VI:Real zari threadwounded onreel”Reeling Process”

Page 18: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Imitation Zari Production

• Stage I:Cleaning of RawMaterial (i.e copper)

Page 19: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Imitation Zari Production

• Stage II: Drawing of Copper wire

Page 20: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Imitation Zari Production

• Stage III: Copper wire plated bysilver electroplatingprocess”Chandi GilitBankda”

Page 21: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Imitation Zari Production

• Stage IV: Drawing of silver electroplated copper wire into more finer stage ‘Tania Process”

Page 22: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Imitation Zari Production

• Stage V: Flattening of silverelectroplated copperwire to formbadla”FlatteningProcess”

Page 23: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Imitation Zari Production

• Stage VI: Wrapping of flat silverelectroplated wire onbase yarn to formimitation zari “BitaiProcess”

Page 24: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Imitation Zari Production

• Stage VII: Gilding on Imitationzari “GildingProcess”

Page 25: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Imitation Zari Production

• Zari thread flattening machine (Optional)

Page 26: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Imitation Zari Production

• Stage VIII: Imitation zari threadwounded on reel“Reeling Process” orby hand charkha“Skeinning Process”

Page 27: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Products & Specification – Real Zari

Product name :Pure silk based real zari

Raw material :Silver, Pure silk, Pure Gold

Base yarn :Pure silk

Covering metal :Silver on base yarn

Electroplating : Pure Gold

Gauge of silver wire : 50-90 s.w.g

Pure silk yarn count : 16/18

Silver purity : 90%, 78%, 55%, etc

Gold content : 4 to 6 gms used per kg ofreal zari

Page 28: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Products & Specification- Real ZariProduct name :Cotton based real zari

Raw material :Silver, Cotton, Pure Gold

Base yarn :Cotton

Covering metal :Silver on base yarn

Electroplating : Pure Gold

Gauge of silver wire : 50-90 s.w.g

Cotton yarn count : 100/2, 60/2, etc

Silver purity : 92%

Gold content : 4 to 6 gms used per kg of realzari

Page 29: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Products & specification – Real Zari

Product name :Polyester based real zari

Raw material :Silver, Polyester, Pure Gold

Base yarn :Polyester

Covering metal :Silver on base yarn

Electroplating : Pure Gold

Gauge of silver wire : 50-90 s.w.g

Polyester yarn count : 30 denier

Silver purity : 92%

Gold content : 6 gms and more used perkg of real zari

Page 30: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Products & Specification – Real ZariProduct name :Viscose based real zari

Raw material :Silver,Viscose, Pure Gold

Base yarn :Viscose

Covering metal :Silver on base yarn

Electroplating : Pure Gold

Gauge of silver wire : 50-90 s.w.g

Viscouse yarn count : 75 & 55 denier

Silver purity : 92%

Gold content : 6 gms and more used per kg ofreal zari

Page 31: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Products & Specification – Real Zari

Product name :Real Half-fine zari

Raw material :Pure silk, Art silk, Polyester,Cotton, Viscose of differentcounts and deniers

Covering metal :Pure silver or electroplatedcopper wire of different gauges

Electroplating :Pure Gold or Chemicals

Page 32: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Product Description – Imitation Zari

Product name :Pure Silk based Imitationzari

Raw material :Copper, Pure silk, Silvernitrate soln & Chemical

Base yarn :Pure silk

Covering metal :Silver electroplated copperwire on base yarn

Gauge ofelectroplated wire

:80 s.w.g

Pure silk yarncount

:16/18

Silver content :8 to 12 gms per kg of zari

Page 33: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Product Description – Imitation Zari

Product name :Cotton based Imitation zariRaw material :Copper, Cotton, Silver nitrate

soln & Chemical

Base yarn :Cotton

Covering metal :Silver electroplated copper wireon base yarn

Gauge ofelectroplated wire

:80 s.w.g

Cotton yarn count :100/2, 60/2,etc

Silver content :8 to 12 gms per kg of zari

Page 34: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Products & Specification– Imitation Zari

Product name : Polyester based Imitationzari

Raw material :Copper, Polyester, Silver nitratesoln & Chemical

Base yarn :Polyester

Covering metal :Silver electroplated copper wireon base yarn

Gauge ofelectroplated wire

:80 s.w.g

Polyester yarn count :30 & 50 denier

Silver content :8 to 12 gms per kg of zari

Page 35: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Products & Specification– Imitation ZariProduct name :Viscose based Imitation

zari

Raw material :Copper, Viscose, Silvernitrate soln & Chemical

Base yarn :Viscose

Covering metal :Silver electroplated copperwire on base yarn

Gauge ofelectroplated wire

:80 s.w.g

Viscouse yarn count :75 & 55 denier

Silver content :8 to 12 gms per kg of zari

Page 36: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Products & Specification– Imitation Zari

Product name :Pure Silk based Imitation zari

Raw material :Copper, Pure silk, Silver nitratesoln & Chemical

Base yarn :Pure silk

Covering metal :Silver electroplated copper wireon base yarn

Gauge ofelectroplated wire

:80 s.w.g

Pure silk yarn count :16/18

Silver content :8 to 12 gms per kg of zari

Page 37: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Zari Embroidery Products

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Zari Embroidery Products

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Zari Embroidery Products

Page 40: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Laces & Borders

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Uniqueness-Ia) Surat zari does not get tarnished or

corronated but retain luster & colour afterwash.

a) In electroplating process, industryelectroplate copper wire or silver at thefiner gauge of 36s.w.g and draw the silverrod or copper rod at 31s.w.g .

a) Anealing process (to remove stress fromcopper wire by heating), is used forimitation zari

Page 42: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Uniqueness-II

d) The artisans skill bears generationallegacy and hence unique.

d) The entire machine used in the process arelocally made by artisans.

d) Normally the wire drawn between 1600-1800 yards per ounce but artisans of suratdraw fine wire upto a fineness of 2500yards per ounce thinner than human hair.

Page 43: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Application

Based on the above fact and figures theapplication for GI Registartion isprepared.

Page 44: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Thank You

Page 45: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Stakeholders

• Southern Gujarat Chambers of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI)

• Surat Zari Manufacturer’s Association• All India Federation of Zari Industry• Surat Zari Goods Producer Co-operative

Society Ltd

Page 46: Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles....Surat Zari Craft: An Adornment for Textiles. FICCI, Mumbai Supported by Textiles Committee Overview of Zari industry • No of units-15770

Structure of the Presentation

• Historical Perspective• Geographical Coverage• Production Process• Product Profile• Uniqueness• Stakeholders