suriname has a long history in cacao · dutch claim to have been the first to introduce cacao for...
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SURINAME HASA LONG HISTORY IN CACAO
Growing and processing of Theobroma cacao, this so called ‘food of
the Gods’ took place from the second half of the 17th century. While the
Dutch claim to have been the first to introduce cacao for cultivation,
the Brazilian Portuguese linguistic roots of ‘skrati’ - the Sranan word
for processed cacao and the hot drink made with it - hint at the role
expelled Jews from the Pernambuco region played during the initial
stage. Unbeknownst that a unique cacao grows native in the interior,
plant material was first imported from the Orinoco delta, then Brazil
and finally from Trinidad and Costa Rica.
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This husband-and-wife-run company specializes in small batch tree-to-bar chocolate made from garden cacao. Theirs is a story of going against the grain and persistence paying off. Of a little company with a large spin-off.
During slavery cacao was mainly grown as a side crop on coffee plantations, both coffee and cacao growing well under
the canopy of the same shadow tree called kofi mama. In these times cacao was solely consumed as a drink. Cacao
cultivation only seriously got going as late as the second half of the 19th century, when new inventions in Europe for the
first time enabled the production of chocolate bars, leading to a sharp rise in demand of cacao. Around 1895 more than
2 million trees were under cultivation, half of these planted by smallholder farmers. An outbreak of the dreaded witches
broom disease, low prices and new competition from West African bulk cacao led to the crops’ steady decline. When
Tan Bun Skrati started in 2010 cacao was no longer cultivated on a large scale. The last active plantation, Peperpot,
had ceased production 13 years before.
TEXT - RUTGER LEM | PHOTGRAPHER - SIMONE REEDER, YDA WENSVEEN-TIELEMAN, HARRY DE GROOT & TAN BUN SKRATI
TOURTONNE, PARAMARIBO IS THE HOME OF SURINAME’S ARTISANAL CACAO AND CHOCOLATE MAKERS TAN BUN SKRATI
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All this time, impervious to the ups and downs of cacao as a cash crop for export, the
Surinamese cottage industry of skrati-making remained active. For centuries, it catered
the local need for cacao, an impressive 100.000 kilo in 1920. The import of cheap mass-
produced cacao powder delivered a near fatal blow to the craft. Goods from overseas
were held in higher esteem than those made by local hands and many skrati makers
ended their businesses. The younger generations no longer grew up with mothers and
grandmothers making cacao from scratch. It was only ten years ago that the old tradition
of cacao-making had nearly completely vanished.
RAGS TO RICHES Suriname has always cultivated varieties that yield a fine flavour cacao. Despite these
good varieties, Surinamese cacao beans had a not-so-good reputation. Although the
climate is excellent for growing it, the peak of the harvest falls in the rainy season,
which made drying difficult, often resulting in produce of inferior quality.
To meet these challenges Tan Bun Skrati from the outset has been working on improving
existing post harvesting techniques. Assistance was sought from Trinidad’s Cocoa
Research Center to develop gradual indoors drying and Cyprus-born Canadian oenologist/
winemaker Elias Phiniotis helped understand and control the fermentation process at
deeper levels. Through trial and error and years of perseverance Tan Bun Skrati managed
to make Surinamese cacao shine and bring out the richness of the flavors that lay hiding
under the bitterness of freshly harvested beans. Subtle notes of fruit, spices, dairy, flowers
and nuts now all can be tasted in the cacao.
Times had changed. In the meantime a worldwide renewed interest has grown for craft
quality chocolate made with cacao which origin can be traced. By tapping into that niche
market with premium products, 72%, 80% and 100% chocolate bars and pralines, Tan
Bun Skrati has effectively turned the tale of Surinamese cacao into a true rags-to-riches-
story: the ugly duckling maturing into a beautiful swan. In the process, Suriname is being
rebranded as a desirable tourist destination for the craft chocolate lover.
Now that local Surinamese cacao is receiving more attention, new trees are being planted
and the demand for local cacao is growing again. To meet this rise in demand Tan Bun
Skrati will soon start producing the old style, more coarsely ground cacao too. And with
that, skrati’s story will have come full circle.
In weekly workshops Ellen and Rutger guide participants through the whole process of tree
to bar chocolate making. Join them to get a taste of Surinamese cacao and delve deeper into
the story of this wonderful fruit that is so deeply embedded in the country’s DNA.
Visit www.tanbun.org for more information.
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