swatch d swatch e swatch f - the knitting guild association
TRANSCRIPT
Cast On • February – April 200766
O N Y O U R W A Y T O T H E M A S T E R S
Ribbing increases by vanessa montileone
swatch a swatch b swatch c
swatch d swatch e swatch f
www.TKGA.com 67
Increasing is an integral part of knitting
whether used for shaping or decoration.
There is a plethora of written information
concerning the various increase techniques
but little is written concerning the use of
increases in ribbing. Level 1 of the TKGA
Master Hand Knitting Program asks
that increases be placed in the last row of
ribbing and that they be unobtrusive. In
other words the increases should blend
into the ribbing pattern. Knitters must first
have knowledge of the various increases
and their characteristics before they can
chose which increase is best suited for the
pattern stitch being knitted.
A brief review of four commonly used
increases includes: bar, lifted, make 1 and
yarn over. Some of the increases share
common characteristics. The lifted and
make 1 can slant right or left depending on
how they are executed. This makes them a
good choice when shaping an armhole or
neckline. The lifted and the make 1 are less
visible and work well in stockinette stitch.
The yarn over is an open increase and
produces a hole. It is wonderful when used
in decorative patterns of lace and eyelet.
The bar increase is visible and produces
a bump to the side of the stitch in which
it is made. Planning is the first step to a
beautiful handmade item, and knowing
which increase to use will yield the best
finished result.
Breaking down the Stitches!
Ribbing is a pattern stitch that uses knits
and purls to form smooth and bumpy
vertical lines. The purl stitch naturally
recedes behind the knit stitch and together
they give elasticity to the fabric. The
vertical purl rows are often referred to as
the purl “ditch”. We can also think of the
purl stitches as being in a closet away from
the public. The transition from knit to
purl stitches provides the perfect “closet”
location to hide an increase. Masters
Program level 1 requires swatches of single
and double rib with increases on the last
row. The increases are to be unobtrusive and
evenly spaced. There are many formulas
for figuring how to space increases and a
general rule of thumb is not to increase in
an edge stitch. Increases placed at the edge
form a jagged line that is visible and makes
seaming difficult. What increase would
work best? The make 1, although one of the
least visible in stockinette, does not work
well in ribbing. It creates an open area
under the strand in which the increase is
made. That open area can be visible in the
ribbing. The lifted increase is the second
best increase in ribbing. The lifted increase
is done by knitting into the head of the
stitch below and placing the new loop on
the right needle then knitting the stitch
normally. The lifted increase resembles a
V formation and if not done properly can
leave an open area that is visible.
The bar increase is usually one of the first
increases a knitter learns; it is visible in
stockinette but the best choice in ribbing.
The bar increase is done by knitting into
the front and then the back of one stitch
creating two stitches from one. When the
back of the stitch is knit into, it forms a
bump much like a purl and it hides itself
in the transition between the knit and purl.
It is best to place the increase in the knit
stitch of single rib and in the second knit
stitch of double rib. By placing the bar in
a knit, the bump that is created will blend
into the transition from knit to purl. The
yarn should be pulled tightly so that no
holes are visible and the knit stitch is not
allowed to gather any extra yarn from other
stitches that might increase its size. Extra
yarn in the knit stitch disrupts the tension
leaving the ribbing looking sloppy. The bar
increase can be done in a purl stitch also
by purling into the front and the back of
the stitch. It is best to make increases in
one type of stitch, either knit or purl stitch
increases for continuity. This is especially
true if you have difficulty maintaining
tension when changing from a knit to a
purl. Proper tension is always important,
especially when working different stitches
in a row.
Many times the TKGA Masters Program
committee members who review Masters
submissions see inconsistent tension in
ribbing. Loose stitches in the transition
from knit to purl are sure to be noticed.
Using the bar or lifted increase should
provide good results with the proper
tension. To help alleviate tension problems
it is best to bring the yarn forward tightly
and give a “tug” when changing from knit
to purl. If pulling the yarn tightly does not
give the proper effect another solution is to
continued on page 68
“Never accept the WORD
of any expert without first
checking it out for yourself.”
– Maggie Righetti
Cast On • February – April 200768
continued from page 67
wrap the purl stitch from underneath and
over the top (wrapping clockwise). It must
then be knit through the back loop on the
next row to prevent twisting. This is a last
resort as it is easy to forget the last step and
end up with twisted stitches.
The best result for an unobtrusive increase
will depend on how you knit. Plan spacing
carefully, the bar increase should produce
wonderful results with the lifted increase
following closely. An increase done properly
and paired with poor tension will be like
the “Leaning tower of Pisa” – A great work
of art with a unstable base!
Swatch Explanation
All Swatches were made using Lamb’s Pride
Worsted weight on size 8us/5mm needle.
All increases were done on the last row
of ribbing per the Masters Program
instructions.
Swatch A: Single Rib –Bar Increase
Swatch B: Double Rib – Bar Increase
Swatch C: Single Rib – Lifted Increase
Swatch D: Double Rib – Lifted Increase
Swatch E: Single Rib – Make 1 left slant
Swatch F: Single Rib – Inconsistent Ribbing
tension with Bar Increase
Resources:
Buss, Katharina, Big Book of Knitting.
Sterling Publishing Co., Inc. 1999.
Fisher, Margaret, “On Your Way to the
Masters-Hand” Cast On, Winter 1999
Hiatt, June Hemmons, The Principles of
Knitting. Simon & Schuster. 1988.
Lampe, Jean “Increasing: More of a Good
Thing Part I” Interweave Knits, Fall 2001
p.86-88. “Increasing: More of a Good
Thing Part II” Interweave Knits, Winter
01/02 p.62-63.
Melville, Sally, The Purl Stitch, XRX, Inc,
2003.
Vogue Knitting Editors. Vogue Knitting.
Pantheon Books, 1989.
Wiseman, Nancie, The Knitter’s Book
of Finishing Techniques. Martingale &
Company 2002.
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