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Policy and

Procedures Manual Sierra Wilderness Seminars Incorporated

Copyright 2014 all rights reserved

2014

SWS MOUNTAIN GUIDES

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Table of Contents

ABOUT SWS MOUNTAIN GUIDES ........................................................................................................................................................................2

HISTORY OF SWS MOUNTAIN GUIDES .............................................................................................................................................................3

GENERAL SWS POLICIES .........................................................................................................................................................................................5

SPECIAL AREA USE POLICIES & REQUIREMENTS ......................................................................................................................................8

GENERAL CLIENT CONTACT & TELEPHONE PROTOCOL .......................................................................................................................9

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS/ FAQ's ......................................................................................................................................................9

MAKE IT GO GUARANTEE POLICY ................................................................................................................................................................... 11

GUIDE TO CLIENT CLIMB/COURSE RATIOS ............................................................................................................................................... 12

MINIMUM GUIDE QUALIFICATIONS FOR HIRING .................................................................................................................................... 14

GUIDES TRAINING REQUIREMENTS............................................................................................................................................................... 16

STAFF DESIGNATIONS ........................................................................................................................................................................................... 16

GENERAL GUIDE RESPONSIBILITIES ............................................................................................................................................................. 19

GENERAL RISK MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES ............................................................................................................................................. 20

WEATHER POLICIES & GUIDELINES .............................................................................................................................................................. 21

GUIDES PACK .............................................................................................................................................................................................................. 22

GUIDES REQUIRED EQUIPMENT ...................................................................................................................................................................... 22

GUIDES FIRST-AID KIT .......................................................................................................................................................................................... 24

PRE-TRIP PROCESS - SWS MOUNTAIN GUIDES ........................................................................................................................................ 25

AT THE MEETING PLACE & CLIENT “NO SHOW POLICY” .................................................................................................................... 27

GUIDES PRE-TRIP ORIENTATION .................................................................................................................................................................... 28

SWS RULES, POLICY AND SAFETY TALK GIVEN TO CLIENTS ............................................................................................................ 29

POST TRIP GUIDE RESPONSIBILITIES ........................................................................................................................................................... 30

GENERAL EMERGENCY PROCEDURES & RESPONSE ............................................................................................................................. 31

SWS EMERGENCY PLAN AND PROCEDURES .............................................................................................................................................. 32

IMPORTANT EMERGENCY PHONE NUMBERS ........................................................................................................................................... 33

SWS POLICY AND PROCEDURES FOR HANDLING AN ACCIDENT .................................................................................................... 34

SWS MOUNTAIN GUIDES INJURY AND ILLNESS PREVENTION PROGRAM ................................................................................. 37

MT. WHITNEY SUMMER ASCENT PROGRAM SAMPLE ITINERARY ................................................................................................ 39

MT. SHASTA SUMMIT ASCENT PROGRAM SAMPLE ITINERARY ...................................................................................................... 41

ICE AXE AND CRAMPON CLINIC SAMPLE COURSE OUTLINE ............................................................................................................ 42

BASIC MOUNTAINEERING CLINIC SAMPLE COURSE OUTLINE ........................................................................................................ 44

CREVASSE RESCUE COURSE OUTLINE SAMPLE ITINERARY ............................................................................................................. 46

BASIC ICE CLIMBING COURSE SAMPLE ITINERARY ............................................................................................................................... 48

BASIC ROCK COURSE OUTLINE SAMPLE ITINERARY ............................................................................................................................ 50

SOME GENERAL INFORMATION ....................................................................................................................................................................... 52

PAYMENTS, TRANSFERS, WEATHER CREDITS, CANCELLATIONS & REFUND POLICY ........................................................ 55

PHYSICAL CONDITIONING ................................................................................................................................................................................... 57

GENERAL TRAVEL INFORMATION .................................................................................................................................................................. 59

SAMPLE OF MT. WHITNEY SUMMER ASCENT CLIMB OUTLINE ...................................................................................................... 60

SAMPLE OF MT.WHITNEY SUMMER EQUIPMENT LIST ....................................................................................................................... 61

SAMPLE OF MT SHASTA SUMMER SUMMIT ASCENT CLIMB OUTLINE ........................................................................................ 62

SAMPLE OF MT. SHASTA SUMMER EQUIOPMENT LIST ....................................................................................................................... 64

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ABOUT SWS MOUNTAIN GUIDES

Name Change:

Originally established in 1981 as Sierra Wilderness Seminars Inc. our parent Subchapter S-Corporation we changed our

marketing name and logo in 2006 to SWS Mountain Guides to better reflect the services we provide. We retained the

“SWS” to give a nod to our history & the parent corporation.

Purpose:

The purpose of SWS Mountain Guides is to offer mountaineering, ice climbing, backcountry skiing, rock climbing, and

backpacking courses that are led by professional guides/instructors. We strive to incorporate a relaxed learning

experience utilizing mountain travel, alpine skills, energy conservation, and environmental awareness.

Philosophy:

It is our belief that the individual is enhanced through experiences that provide opportunities for achievement, oneness of

self in the environment, and competency in outdoor skills. We offer seminars based on the understanding that what each

individual achieves is dependent upon that individual’s personal ability rather than the perceived goals of the guides and

instructors. Our seminars offer opportunities for renewal through outdoor experiences that give an understanding of

one’s place in and with the environment. All seminars incorporate challenging experiences in the wilderness settings

which provide a place for a full range of learning.

Mission Statement:

At SWS Mountain Guides we are professional mountain guides specializing in relaxed, practical learning adventures in a

wilderness setting. We know how difficult it is for our clients to escape the pressures and frustration of the “daily grind”

and experience the adventure they have heard or read about. We know how they want to “get away from it all” and

experience the adventure they deserve. This is why for over 28 years we have developed our program of wilderness

seminars. We will set you free from the daily grind, teach you the skill you need to know, give you the confidence you want

and our system of trip planning will allow you to attend with little time spent on preparing for the adventure. Come join

us for a memorable outdoor adventure, whether you want a wilderness respite, or expedition training.

Mottos:

“Experience the Adventure”

“Climbing the worlds Mountains since 1981”

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HISTORY OF SWS MOUNTAIN GUIDES

Timothy Keating Dave Cressman " JB " James Brown

SWS Mountain Guides, formally known as Sierra Wilderness Seminars Inc., is owned by Timothy S. Keating, Chief

Executive Officer, one of the original founders of the company, David Cressman Chief Operations Officer, with over 15

years of experience with our Mt. Shasta operations, and James Brown "JB" Chief Marketing Officer of Sierra Wilderness

Seminars Inc. aka SWS Mountain Guides.

We have changed our name to SWS Mountain Guides to better reflect the services we provide, but we are still the same

company, same great trips, and same qualified guides. Established in 1981, we are one of only 3 guide services to hold a

commercial guiding permit on Mt. Shasta and one of 6 guide services to hold permanent commercial guiding permit for

both winter and summer mountaineering operations in the Inyo National Forest including the Special Mt. Whitney Zone.

We are insured by Worldwide Outfitters and Guides Association (WOGA) and hold valid commercial use licenses in the

following National Parks and National Forest Service Wilderness Areas:

Sequoia/ King National Park

Lassen Volcanic National Park

Shasta / Trinity National Forests / Mt. Shasta Wilderness

Inyo National Forest / Golden Trout Wilderness / Ansel Adams Wilderness

Joshua Tree National Park

Yosemite National Park (Backpacking & Ski Touring only)

And other where appropriate or needed

SWS Mountain Guides, aka Sierra Wilderness Seminars Inc., has been offering rock climbing, ice climbing, glacier travel,

alpine mountaineering, certified avalanche seminars (level I and level II), backpacking, survival, and backcountry skiing,

ski touring, and mountain ski descents throughout California for over 34 years. We also offer international guided climbs

and have been conducting expeditions to countries such as Russia, Tanzania, Nepal, Mexico, Ecuador, Peru, Argentina,

Bolivia, and Chile for over 28 years.

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All our guides are rigidly screened for appropriate levels of expertise and are required to annually attend our 2-day

winter and 3- day summer guides training sessions and adhere to the policies of SWS Mountain Guides. As a minimum all

guides are required hold at least a Wilderness First Responder and CPR certificates, with some having advanced training

such as Emergency medical technicians. Winter guides hold certificates in Level I and Level II Avalanche training and

rescue. Our senior staff is trained in "Leave No Trace" techniques which are practiced on all courses. The majority of our

staff holds at least Bachelor’s degrees in one or more disciplines. Average age of our guides is 35, with approximately 10

years of climbing, skiing or mountaineering experience. Some long-time guides have 25 years or more experience in the

mountains.

We feel we can offer the best possible combination of relaxation, education, skill enhancement, adventure and excitement

at competitive prices.

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GENERAL SWS POLICIES

Accidents: **REPORT ALL ACCIDENTS TO THE DIRECTOR AND MAIN OFFICE DIRECTLY**

Keep detailed reports of any injury, however slight. Use the field report form provided for that purpose. Be

sure the participant reads and signs and dates it. If the injury is serious, have a witness write down what they

saw and have them sign the form as well, along with their name and address. The instructor and/or a ranger

can order emergency evacuations.

Dress: SWS guides should always wear appropriate dress which is clean, neat and in good repair. You should

always meet your clients in the appropriate SWS uniform (SWS t-shirt, provided to you, and hiking short or

pants). You are required to have proper footwear appropriate to the course, no sandals or flip flops (except as

camp shoes). Footwear should be similar to your clients. Your appearance is a valuable asset to the SWS image

and it also plays a key role in the confidence our clients have in your judgment. If you feel you do not have the

proper equipment for a course or trip, contact Tim Keating or Dave Cressman. We have programs in place to

get you the best equipment at deeply discounted prices. Remember, dress and act like a professional because

we expect you to be a professional at SWS Mountain Guides.

Corporate Sponsors: We have contracts with corporate sponsors to support their equipment and to get

professional feedback on their equipment and clothing. We need you to support our corporate sponsors, and to

give feedback in regards to their equipment and clothing. Please reserve your comments about design flaws

and problems to the feedback forms and not to our clients.

Uniforms: We have a designed uniform for your use in the field, consisting of an SWS t-shirt and your choice of

basic hiking shorts or climbing pants. Jackets, Fleece vests and Fleece jackets are available for you to purchase

at a deep discount. (You are not required to purchase these items) but SWS will pay for the garment to be

embroidered and when representing SWS we expect you to wear your t-shirt and support both SWS and our

professionalism. Please stay away from your favorite pair of pants without the seat.

Smoking: SWS instructors are not permitted to smoke on any course, climb, or expedition.

Complaints: If a participant has a complaint, listen attentively and do not argue. Try to hear them out

sometimes that is all that is necessary. Know your expedition behavior and how people act under stress. Know

your own feelings and stay professional. If you have stayed objective, you will have little trouble solving the

problem(s). Agree something will be done, but do not admit SWS is at fault. “I’m sorry you feel that way”, is the

type of apology to offer. If they persist, have them write down the complaint and sign it. Usually the complaint

will end there. Good guides can disassociate themselves, stay professional, and always remain cordial.

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Remember, you have the responsibility and safety of the whole group to consider. Please report all serious

complaints to the SWS Management.

Alcohol/Drugs: Guides may not drink while instructing or guiding on a course or seminar. Use of drugs at any

time during a course will result in immediate cancellation of employment. Remember, while on Federal Lands

(National Park or Forests), Federal Law supersedes State Law on drugs and alcohol. Clients are discouraged

from drinking and bringing alcohol on a course. If asked, the answer to alcohol or drugs is: NO alcohol or

drugs are allowed on SWS Mountain Guide climbs or courses. Drugs are illegal on all Federal Lands and

rangers are trained to take care of such situations if participants fail to cooperate with SWS policy. Use

common sense when dealing with liquor and/or drugs.

Firearms: Firearms are not allowed on any SWS course.

Report and Equipment Logs: Trip Reports, Equipment logs, client evaluations, and all paperwork is very

important and should be completed and filed promptly after a course with the Mt. Shasta Office. Please mail

all reports to the Mt. Shasta Office if working outside the area. All accident, incidents, equipment problems and

losses must be reported to the Directors as soon as possible. Record keeping is important for your own

protection as well as SWS Mountain Guides.

Noise: Late night gab sessions can be annoying to those who wish to retire early. Be considerate and

encourage your clients to do the same. Group talkers should keep away from sleepers and/or talk in quiet

voices. Use common sense when preparing groups for alpine starts and early departures.

Nude Bathing: (mostly during the summer) Nudity is not uncommon in the backcountry, as every hiker

knows. Please use common sense when bathing or swimming. Some people object to nudity and are offended

by it. Please try not to offend any client; they provide your income.

SWS Course Fees: All course fees are set by the SWS Directors, and depend on a variety of costs which maybe

both known and unknown to you. Please do not discuss our costs or pricing with clients with the exception of

what is published in our brochures and on the website. Refer special quotes or course ideas back to the SWS

Management for a price quote.

Equipment Purchase and Professional Deals: All equipment costs, pro-deals, bro-deals, and corporate

sponsor pricing is confidential information for the benefit of SWS and you. They maybe exclusive to SWS and

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should not be discussed with clients, other guides, or others outside the company. Access to these opportunities

is depending on the ability to respect the retail pricing structure and the companies, which offer these

opportunities.

Company Equipment: SWS strives to use only the best possible equipment for our courses. Should you have a

question about any aspect of its use or safety, restrict those questions to the SWS Management or equipment

manager. Care for the equipment as if it were your own. Equipment is a major investment and when lost,

stolen, or broken cost a great deal in time and money to replace. It is your responsibility of the guide to check

in and out all equipment issued for your course. Remember to collect all equipment from the clients before

they leave. Check their pack, as they may be tired and not realize they have SWS equipment. All equipment

must be collected, sorted, counted, cleaned and dried before your duties for the course or climb are complete.

You may be held financially responsible for any missing equipment, please make sure you check your client’s

packs!

Private or Pirate Trips with SWS clients: If you arrange to guide previous SWS clients on a “private trip”

where you are paid for your guiding services, to area which SWS has a permit or where neither you or SWS

have a commercial permit. You are subject to immediate termination of your employment.” Pirate Guiding” is

considered an illegal activity, you are required to have both liability insurance and a commercial permits to

conduct paid guiding services on any public lands.

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SPECIAL AREA USE POLICIES & REQUIREMENTS

Mt. Shasta Group Separation Policy

Established 2002

1. All SWS groups are to remain separate and distinct groups while climbing Mt. Shasta.

A. All SWS groups are to camp at least 1/2 mile apart when using the same route on

the mountain.

B. All SWS groups are to limit time on the Summit Pinnacle to no more than 10

minutes as to allow other groups and visitors to enjoy the Summit of Mt. Shasta.

C. All SWS guides are to use their best judgment in keeping groups separated on Mt. Shasta as in

keeping with the spirit of the wilderness experience and the purpose of establishment of the wilderness

area.

2. Group separation exceptions.

A. When a group size exception has been given to SWS from the Forest service.

B. When an emergency situation occurs you are allowed to use any resources

available to you for the safety of the clients, other guides and yourself.

Mt. Whitney Group Policy

1. All SWS groups are required to have a Wilderness Permit in both the winter and summer seasons and follow all

Wilderness Regulations.

2. Please be extra aware of the environmental impact of our group in the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek due to

Forest Service Focus on that drainage and impact of this area.

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GENERAL CLIENT CONTACT & TELEPHONE PROTOCOL

General Telephone Protocol

1. SWS Mountain Guides this is... You’re Name.

2. How can we help you?

3. Discuss and answer questions; see most asked questions

4. Remember to ask:

A. Where did you hear about us?

B. Would you like additional information on a specific trip?

C. Give the follow up information to SWS Management.

5. When you say good-bye use their name.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS/ FAQ's

How do I make a reservation?

You can make reservations for your course or climb either by calling our toll free number at 888.797.6867 or book

directly online at by clicking our “Book Now” tabs located throughout our website to put you into our secure reservation

system. We require a 50% deposit per person for domestic courses. For Private and Custom climbs just click on our

“Reservation Request” tab on our Custom Climbs page and request a custom date or climb. Our staff will contact you

about the details and you will receive a quote. All Custom and Private guiding require a 50% deposit. A $1,000.00 deposit

of international treks and expeditions. Balance is due 30 days prior to course departure for domestic trips &

private/custom climbs and 90 days prior to international departures. You can also download a reservation form and fax

it to our office at 877.797.6867. You will be contacted by our office by us directly once we receive your reservation.

What type of equipment do you provide?

SWS Mountain Guides provides all group gear and group meals including: tents, stoves, dinner(s), breakfast(s), technical

gear such as: ice axes, helmets, harnesses, avalanche beacon, shovels, ropes, climbing equipment, as well as all wilderness

permits, reservation fees, and summit fees. Rental Request Form

Do you rent equipment?

SWS Mountain Guides does rent equipment to our clients during the courses & climbs. We rent packs, sleeping bags,

mountaineering boots, crampons, down jackets, hard shell jackets, snowshoes, gaitors, and trekking poles . Give us a call

for your rental needs or email or fax our Equipment Rentals request form.

What do I need for the course? Depending on the course you are responsible for your personal gear, which includes:

pack*, sleeping bag*, sleeping pad*, boots*, personal clothing along with snacks and lunches. Your course may well also

require you to have personal climbing equipment such as: crampons*, personal carabiners, personal ascending devices

(advanced courses). A equipment list is provided for each course and climb. Again e-mail or give us a call.* Available for

Rent through SWS

http://www.swsmtns.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/RentalRequestForm13.5.pdf

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Can I bring my own equipment?You are welcome to bring your own tent or other personal equipment we provide, of

course it will be have to be approved by your guide for the type of trip you are attending. Feel free to throw it in the car

and ask your guide at the meeting location.

Can I get a discount if I bring my own gear?No, our equipment is provide by SWS Mountain Guides as a convenience

to our clients, while the cost to purchase and maintain our equipment is substantial, equipment is a minor cost of the

course itself.

What happens if I have to cancel my reservation?

Please read our company Payment, Deposit, & Transfers Policy I do suggest you give us a call and see what we can do for

you, we maybe able to transfer your reservation (transfer of $75.00 may apply). We like to work with our clients instead

of just taking their money for situations which come up. Communication is the key.

What happens if the weather is too bad to continue the course?We cannot control the weather and safety is our

primary concern so, SWS Mountain Guides reserves the right to reschedule climbs and/or courses due to severe weather

conditions or other uncontrollable circumstances which make the climb or course unsafe to continue. Weather Credit or

Weather Partial Credit will be given for a climb or course during or within 24 hrs of the course start dates, if severe

weather conditions or other uncontrollable circumstances make the seminar or course unsafe to continue. This decision

will be at the discretion of the climb leader and/or the Director of SWS Mountain Guides.

http://www.swsmtns.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/PolicyRefundsTransfers-13.4.pdf

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MAKE IT GO GUARANTEE POLICY

"Make it go Guarantee"

If you book a regular scheduled course or climb and are the only client on the course or climb you have Two weeks prior

to departure we will contact you and let you know if you are the only client signed up for that departure, at this point

you have three the three options:

Option"A": Pay the "Make it go Guarantee" Surcharge of $50.00 per day and we will run the course as a private one on

one with our guide.

Option"B": Transfer to another course with additional clients at no charge.

Option"C": Cancellation of the Course or Climb with a full refund.

This is a win-win for all involved, you get you course on the date you want, my scheduled guide gets the works, and my

company with the surcharge covers our direct expenses and breaks even. So this option is available for all regular

scheduled courses and climbs, so you can feel free and book your climb knowing that you can "Make it Go" ............

Note: SWS Mountain Guides meets it's minimum 2 clients for the course or climb at the last minute your "Make it Go

Guarantee" Surcharge is refunded.

Exceptions: Applies only to Regular Scheduled SWS Mountain Guides Climbs and Course as scheduled on the SWS

Mountain Guides website. Excludes: Custom Trips, International Expeditions, and third party scheduled courses or climbs.

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GUIDE TO CLIENT CLIMB/COURSE RATIOS

We try to maintain these ratios, but they are only guidelines. Depending on the nature of the course or climb, time of year,

conditions of the route, your experience guiding, your experience with the route, and available staffing, you may be asked

to take more or less of these ratios. This of course will be discussed with you or the lead guide prior to the course as to the

safety of the ratios.

Backpacking

Backpacking 1:5/6

Survival 1:5/6

Backcountry Skiing & Snowboarding

Basic Touring 1:4/5

Intermediate Touring / Camps 1:3/4

Advanced Touring / Descents 1:2/3

Rock Climbing

Top-Roping 1:4/5

Multi-Pitch 1:2

Ice Climbing

Basic Ice Climbing 1:4

Advanced Ice Climbing 1:2/3

Winter Mountaineering

Snow Camping 1:4/5

Basic Winter Mountaineering 1:4/5

Advanced Winter Mountaineering 1:3

Mountaineering

Class 2-3 1:4

Class 3 1:3/4

Class 4 1:2/3

Class 5 1:2

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MINIMUM GUIDE QUALIFICATIONS FOR HIRING

Guides must demonstrate teaching ability as well as social skills and present themselves in a clean professional

manner.

Guides are expected to have a firm knowledge SWS’s operational procedures and emergency response.

Guides are expected to carry “Guides Essential Items” as required for the course or climb they are conducting

(see Guide’s Info Chapter in Manual).

Guides are required to use their own climbing equipment, including their own ice ax, avalanche safety

equipment, climbing gear, harness and helmet along with personal camping gear.

Minimum age requirement of 21 year of age

MINIMUM GUIDE SKILLS REQUIRED

Knots: figure eight, munter, munter & mule, butterfly, prussik, bowline, bowline on coil (short-roping)

Belay techniques; mechanical belay, hip belay, shoulder belay, ATC, Munter Hitch

Belaying clients/ back-up belayers

Rappelling techniques

Belaying rappels/backup systems for guides?

Fireman's belay

Rope use and rope logs

SWS policy for anchor systems for belays, rappels, top ropes

minimum anchors on the terrain they are guiding

Connecting rope to anchor/ top rope situations

Rappel anchor - minimum/ teaching vs. multi-pitch situations

Policy concerning clients leading

Mandatory helmet policy/ all ice climbing and rock climbing situations

Helmets for both belayer and climber / with ice climbing all clients

Crevasse Rescue Systems

Tying system for 2 person/ 3 person etc. rope teams

Self-rescue system – Texas System

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Mechanical ascenders vs. prussiks

Alpine:

WFR/CPR certification

5 Years of Alpine Climbing Experience

provide a resume of 15 different Alpine Climbs

Ability to lead 5.6 rock in rock shoes and 5.4 in boots.

Have climbed 5 waterfall ice/alpine ice routes, all of these must be WI 3/AI 3

Ability to employ French Technique on frozen snow up to 45 degrees

Level I Avalanche Training

Multi-Pitch Rock Instructor:


5 Years of Rock Climbing Experience

20 traditional multi pitch climbs, 3 of which must be Grade III

must be able to lead 5.9 during the guiding season

Top Rope Rock Instructor:



5.7 traditional leading ability

provide a resume including 10 multi-pitch traditional climbs, 5.7 or harder

Graduates of the AMGA Alpine Guides Courses and AMGA Rock Instructor Courses will be strongly considered for

employment.

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GUIDES TRAINING REQUIREMENTS

1. All Lead guides are required to have current Wilderness First Responder and CPR.

2. All guides are required to attend the following guides training:

o 2-3 day winter guides training if guiding in the winter months

o 3 day summer guides training if guiding in the summer months

o Both guides training session are required for year around guides

3. All Lead winter guides are required to have Level II avalanche training.

4. All assistant winter guides are required to have Level I avalanche training.

5. Guides are one to attend a “Leave No Trace” training session per year.

6. Lead Guides are required to have 2 seasons of guiding experience.

STAFF DESIGNATIONS

ALPINE:

Senior Guide: This position is for those guides who have shown exemplary service to SWS and have completed at least 2

AMGA courses.

Senior Guides Resume must include the following:



Provide a resume of 30 different Alpine Climbs in at least 2 different ranges. Four of these must be alpine

rock Climbs 5.7 or harder, and four must be snow/ice climbs of 50 deg or steeper

ability to lead 5.8 rock in rock shoes and 5.6 in boots

have climbed 5 waterfall ice/alpine ice routes, all of these must be at least WI 3/AI 3

Ability to employ French Technique on frozen snow up to 45 deg

Level II Avalanche training

Has worked for SWS at least 4 years

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Lead Guide: Oversee and lead client group. This guide can be in charge of a particular client group and dictates the

logistics of the day as well as any safety decisions. Lead guides must be a graduate of the AMGA Alpine Guides Course (or

higher) or have 100 documented guiding days in alpine terrain.

Lead Guides Resume must include the following:

WFR/CPF certification

5Years of Alpine Climbing Experience

Provide a resume of 10 different Alpine Climbs in at least 2 different ranges. Four of these must be alpine rock

climbs, and four must be snow/ice climbs.

Ability to lead 5.8 rock in rock shoes and 5.6 in boots.

Have climbed 5 waterfall ice/alpine ice routes, all of these must be at least WI 3/AI 3


Level I Avalanche Certified

Has worked for SWS for at least 2 seasons

Assistant Alpine Guide: This is an entry level guiding position. They assist the lead guide in running the trip. They may

be asked at any time to take charge of clients under the supervision of Lead Guide. Assistant guide’s resume must include

the following:

First Aid/CPR certification


Ability to lead 5.6 rock in rock shoes.


MULTI-PITCH ROCK:

Lead Guide: Oversee and lead client group. This guide can be in charge of the particular client group and dictates the

logistics of the day as well as any safety decisions. Lead guides must be a graduate of the AMGA Rock Instructor Course

(or higher) or have 100 documented rock climbing guiding days. Lead Guides Resume must include the following:

WFR/CPF certification


20 traditional multi pitch climbs, 5 of which must be Grade III, and one Grade IV

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ten 5.10a traditional leads

must be able to lead 5.10a during the guiding season

Lead Guides Resume must include the following:

Assistant Rock Instructor: Starting in 2006, the assistant guide’s resume must include the following:



provide a resume of 30 climbs including at least:

20 traditional multi pitch climbs, 3 of which must be Grade III

must be able to lead 5.9 during guiding season

TOP ROPE ROCK:

Lead Guide: Oversee and lead client group. This guide can be in charge of the particular client group and dictates the

logistics of the day as well as any safety decisions. Lead guides must be a graduate of the AMGA Top Rope Site Manager

Course (or higher), or have 50 documented rock climbing guiding days by 2006.

Assistant Top Rope Instructor: Starting in 2006, the assistant guide’s resume must include the following:



5.7 traditional leading ability

provide a resume including 10 multi-pitch traditional climbs, 5.7 or harder

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GENERAL GUIDE RESPONSIBILITIES

The guide is responsible for making sure that the group is properly equipped for the course or climb. Each client’s

equipment must be inspected to make sure that all necessary items are available and that all items of clothing are

adequate for the worst possible conditions on the trip. In addition, the guide must inspect all group safety equipment that

is to be used on the trip.

COURSES:

Arrive prior to meeting time.

Assess weather conditions

Present yourself in a clean professional manner.

Check over all paperwork, i.e. liability waivers, cover sheets, rental needs and any money owed. Also keep in mind

anyone who has Special Medical Conditions.

Meet clients.

Collect any money due.

Fill out wilderness permit and have each client fill one out. Each person keeps the green copy.

Check client’s equipment.

Inspect and hand out applicable equipment.

Give safety briefing, and weather discussion, be sure to check off each line and sign at the bottom.

Decisions to proceed with the course must be based on weather and snow condition keeping in mind client

ability. This decision must be based on client safety first and foremost.

Proceed to trailhead and follow course outlines and safety procedures.

Mandatory helmet policy. Whenever clients are using the ice axe and wearing crampons.

All clients must be on a rope above 10,000 ft. and whenever on a glacier.

When there is only one guide and not all the clients are skiing/snowboarding the guide should walk down with

the walkers.

Once down, check in all equipment. Please try hard to make sure we get it all back. PLEASE!!!

Check in with the office when group is off the climb. Use your cell phone if still on the mountain at this time. Call

in again once you are down at the trailhead.

Fill out post trip report and place in box along with trip roster, medical and liability forms, gear check out form,

and trip evaluations.

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GENERAL RISK MANAGEMENT GUIDELINES

ROCK COURSES/CLIMBS

Inspect company gear before each usage. Report suspect ropes and hardware to the office and pull them out of

circulation.

Check client harnesses before each climb.

Clients are required to use helmets when climbing at all times and while belaying in busy climbing areas where

the potential of falling debris could occur.

Clients are required to be on belay, or backed up when rappelling.

Use a second client backup belayer whenever possible.

MOUNTAIN COURSES/CLIMBS

Inspect company gear before each usage. Report suspect ropes and hardware to the office and pull them out of

circulation.

Follow helmet policy.

Check client harnesses before climbing.

Clients are required to be on belay, or backed up when rappelling.

Continually assess client’s physical condition. Do not be afraid to tell client that he should not continue, if you feel

his condition is poor.

Consider alternate routes if the route you are on is too crowded.

Consider belaying a client if their stability is an issue

Do not let gung-ho clients talk you into climbing in poor conditions.

Do not plant clients unless you are sure they will follow instructions you’ve given them.

Clients who cannot continue should be taken down by a guide or assistant guide.

Most of our injuries have occurred while teaching self arrest. Be cognizant of the associated risks. Do not

encourage aggressive self arrest practice with clients that have had previous shoulder injuries.

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WEATHER POLICIES & GUIDELINES

Guidelines For weather discussions with clients before and during the course.

Scenario #1

o Weather is good

o Don’t cancel the climb. Explain that if the weather turns bad after we decide to go the first day there is no

refund. No matter what happens later. Once we have decided to do the climb, the clients are financially

committed.

Scenario #2

o Weather is marginal.

o Try not to cancel the climb. Have the group come to a consensus (with your input). Urge them to go, but at

the same time don’t make any promises. Once we have decided to do the climb, the clients are financially

committed. Make sure the clients understand the financial implications. We need at least 2 clients to go, or

we will have to request that the sole client pays a private surcharge.

Scenario #3

o Weather is clearly bad.

o Again, try not to cancel the climb, but let them come to the decision to reschedule. Tell them the weather

may be a factor, but you will try the climb if the group is up for it. Don’t let any hard chargers talk you into

going when you know it is really bad. Tell them you have the final say on whether or not the trip is a go. Once

we have decided to do the climb, the clients are financially committed. Make sure the clients understand this.

If, on the first day, the group decides not to attempt the climb on the next day or two the clients have the

option of rescheduling the climb for a different date.

Other Considerations

o We never cancel climbs. Always let the clients come to the decision with your input

o Refer refund and reschedule questions to the office.

o Know the current weather forecast.

o For late season climbs build in a discussion of freezing levels and how that may affect climbing conditions

during seemingly good weather.

22

GUIDES PACK

1. The Guides Personal Items:

a. First Aid Kit—Personal WFR protocol

b. Cellular Phone – Required for on Trip Lead Guides

c. Radios – Provided by SWS – issued by season

d. Guides notebook – Documented

e. Map & Compass

f. Leatherman

g. Bivy

h. 20’ of guideline

i. Extra batteries

j. Cordellete

k. Extra Locking carabiners

l. Prussik cord

m. Repair Kit: Duct Tape, wire, pole sleeve, develop your own!

n. 2 or more lighters

o. Short Rope: Provided by SWS trip dependent

GUIDES REQUIRED EQUIPMENT

Each guide is required to have the following equipment in addition to your personal gear:

Mountaineering Day Courses:

Guides Logbook

Guides First Aid Kit

Copies of “Patient Assessment Form” and “Accident Report Form”

Client Medical Forms (Liability forms should be left at office)

Cellular phone with emergency phone numbers

Helmet (you must wear a helmet whenever the clients are required to wear one)

Extra pairs of: sunglasses or goggles, hat, mittens or gloves when weather conditions dictate

Bivy Sac

Mountaineering Overnight Climbs:

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Helmet (you must wear a helmet whenever the clients are required to wear one)

Extra pairs of: sunglasses or goggles, hat, mittens or gloves when weather conditions dictate

Bivy Sac

Compass

1/2 length foam pad

Altimeter

Extra warm clothing

Snow picket (snow climbs only)

Crevasse rescue gear (when traveling in crevassed terrain)

Repair kit containing:

o Leatherman or small pliers

o Pocket knife

o 4mm Allen wrench and spare crampon strap for climbs needing crampons

Overnight Climbs Additional Repair Kit:

o spare lighter

o tent pole repair sleeve

o duct tape

Rock Climbing Trips:





Helmet (you must wear a helmet whenever the clients are required to wear one

24

GUIDES FIRST-AID KIT

(Required items)

Band-Aids

Gloves

Antiseptic towelettes

Wound closure strips (Steri-strips)

2nd skin dressing of Moleskin dressings

Antibiotic ointment

Triangular bandages

Non-stick gauze pads

3-inch conforming roll gauze

Coban wrap (Vet-wrap)

1-inch cloth tape

Rescue mask

Patient assessment forms

25

PRE-TRIP PROCESS - SWS MOUNTAIN GUIDES

GUIDE CONTACT WITH CLIENT

Please arrive early to the meeting point (usually the SWS office). This time should be used to review the course

itinerary, roster, and paperwork. Check that personal and group gear is in good working order.

When clients arrive, greet them and introduce your-self.

Collect all medical and liability forms. Check that liability waiver has been signed. (Applicants under age 18 must

have waiver signed by parent or legal guardian.) Medical forms are carried by lead guide on trip. Liability forms

should be left in lead guides folder in office.

Check over client gear and make sure it is in good working order and fitted to individuals. Rent gear as

necessary. Provide helmet, ice axe, and harness with locking carabiner and other necessary gear.

Make sure each client fills out a wilderness permit and has a summit pass and enough pack-out bags.

Give Safety Briefing (See Appendix A) and discuss program, answer any questions.

Assess client’s personal experience and physical condition.

BEFORE THE TRIP

Check Medical Release forms, Assumption of Risk Forms for each participant. Be sure all forms are filled out and signed

and note if any money is due. NO PARTICIPANT MAY GO ON ANY COURSE WITHOUT THESE FORMS SIGNED. NO UNDER

AGE PARTICIPANT MAY GO ON A COURSE WITHOUT THE SIGNATURE OF A PARENT, ESPECIALLY ON MEDICAL FORMS.

If you can't find all forms please take a blank one and have participant fill them out and sign. Copies of both forms are

located in this manual, please us the latest forms, not last years. Don't forget to place medical form in the first aid kit

and take with you. Check other paper work, trip list, wilderness permits, guides log, employee passes, sws commercial

permits and payments prior to the trip. Check in the office for current information and pick up trip folder. Have all

equipment and food ready for the trip. It is not very professional to be running around on trip time getting last minute

items.

Wilderness Permits and other Paper work:

Mt. Shasta: Wilderness Permits can be attained at either the trailhead or the Main Forest Service Office in Mt. Shasta

City. You also need the following from the SWS office:

o Copy of SWS commercial permit/ on back of ID card

o Summit permits for all clients

o Employee summit pass

o Wilderness Permit- self-issued or attained at the office

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Mt. Whitney/Eastern Sierra Nevada: Wilderness Permits must be attained at the Forest Service offices at Lone Pine, Big

Pine, or Bishop prior to the trip. Information about the Wilderness Permits will be in your trip package. Mt. Whitney

Wilderness Permits are located at the Forest Service Visitor Center Lock Box in Lone Pine. Make sure you have the permit

number and lock box code.

o Copy of SWS commercial permit/ on back of ID card

o Wilderness Permit

o SWS Mountain Guides ID

Note: See SWS office of special wilderness permits in Inyo National Forest

Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Park:

o Copy of SWS commercial permit / see the office

o Wilderness Permit


Lassen Volcanic National Park:

o Wilderness Permit- can be attained in the winter at the main park office in Mineral or at the Chalet.


Yosemite National Park:

o Wilderness Permits are required and attained at either the Park office, check with SWS Office for

location

o Copy of Commercial Use Permit / see office


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AT THE MEETING PLACE & CLIENT “NO SHOW POLICY”

Greet clients in a friendly manner and ON TIME (almost all courses meet at 8:00 am, unless otherwise noted). Introduce

yourself and clients along with assistant guides and apprentice guides. Your first impression maybe the first the clients

have with SWS in person, make it a good one, it sets the tone for the trip.

1.) Greet and check clients against the trip list (enclosed in your trip folder) If you don’t have all your clients do

the following:

A.) Wait a half-hour

B.) Call SWS Office gives them the information about the Client.

C.) Call clients home from number off medical sheet.

D.) Wait another half-hour (while conducting pack check)

E.) Call SWS office and report missing client again then leave

If trailhead and meeting place are the same and there is no telephone and cellular phone reception, continue trailhead

orientation and wait one hour, and if they haven’t shown up. Go ahead and leave go to the trailhead, if meeting place and

trailhead are the same place send one guide to a phone for contact procedure while other guide does pack check and trip

orientation.

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GUIDES PRE-TRIP ORIENTATION

1.) Introduce yourself and other guides, give a short description of your experience and let your assistant give their

experience. Then have each client introduce him or herself and answer these questions:

a) What they want to get out of the course?

b) What type of outdoor experience do they have?

2.) Give a brief introduction to the seminar and the itinerary for the next few days

3.) Give your thoughts and information you have on the weather and general climbing conditions: Remember to be

positive!

a. Do your homework and check out the weather and conditions in the

local area, it is your responsibility to know the local weather.

Sources: Internet: www.swsmountainguides.com

1. Weather Channel

2. Forest Service Office

3. Park Service Office

4. SWS guides & Guides Trip Reports / see office

5. Newspapers

4.) Depart to Trailhead if needed. Give directions to trailhead and have clients follow you to the trailhead. Don't assume

clients know where the trailhead is! Car pool if possible, on all trips, it makes the parking easier, make sure your have

parking permits for vehicle if needed.

At the Trailhead:

5.) Perform pack check and rid participants of extra weight and unnecessary items. Don't hesitate to say “NO” to personal

items. Folks tend to forget they agreed to carry that extra weight. Some items that are allowed are: binoculars, camera

(one), and pillow. Pull out cotton flannel shirts, they are useless when wet. But be sure they have something to take its

place. The time for this may vary depending on the type of trip. If it is a beginning backpacking trip, turn this into a

learning experience. If this trip is a more advanced trip, this may take less time, but always perform a pack check to make

sure they have what they need. Gather together all SWS equipment each person will use and note what you gave out in

your guide log. Distribute weight and equipment according to bodyweight. Rule of thumb: no more than 30% of body

weight.

6.) Divide up group equipment and group food. Chose tent mates and ask clients to share tents

a) They will be carrying group dinners and breakfasts and remind them to take their drinks and lunch stuff (if

applicable). They want to get at least 2 drinks for evening and one for the morning.

b) Try to give equal shares but base it on the clients, size, weight, and physical condition. Rule of thumb for weight,

pack weight is no more than 30% of body weight. The guide usually carries a little more. But if you have big fast

folks give them some stuff.

7.) Introduce SWS rules and policy and finish Safety Talk

29

SWS RULES, POLICY AND SAFETY TALK GIVEN TO CLIENTS

1.) Keep the guide within visual sight at all times. We attempt to keep a guide in front of the group and one in the back of

the group. Keep within visual sight of one of these guides at all times.

2.) No-one gets behind the “sweep”. If someone needs to stop, we all stop. Never leave the area for anything without

letting the guide know where you are going. Use the buddy system.

3.) The pace will be set by the guide(s), the pace maybe slower then you expect, but the guide has a reason for setting the

pace. He or she may have knowledge about the distance, terrain, and attitude that you may not have. Acclimatization is

important aspect of the pace and keeping people healthy at altitude is important for both enjoyment and safety.

4.) No alcohol or drugs are allowed on SWS seminars.

5.) Sanitation: Human waste should be disposed of at least 200' from trails, campsites, and water sources. Solid human

waste should be buried 6-8 inches underground in mineral soil. Toilet- dig a small hole about 6-8 inches deep and pack

out or burn toilet tissue for feces. Women don’t leave toilet tissue behind, pack it out in a zip lock bag. A bandana can be

used if it is washed frequently. There is no bacterium in urine. Absolutely no toilet tissue is to be left on the ground.

Mt. Shasta Wilderness: All solid waste is to be packed out according to Mt. Shasta policy. Human waste disposal systems

are available at the forest service office, fifth season, and at trailhead. Get one for each person in the group.

Mt. Whitney Area: All solid waste is to be packed out according to Special Whitney regulation, check at the trailhead for

the newest system or the forest service office.

6.) No soap or very little biodegradable soap is to be used only at least 200' from any water source or potential water

source. Better to use other methods such as "no water soap, snow, sand, or hot water to clean dishes. Use prepackaged

novelettes or waterless cleaners for sanitation they are great for cleaning up, just remember to pack it out. Guides will be

carrying a small amount of soap for dishes.

7.) Safety is our main concern during trip and communication is the key! If you have any discomfort from your pack, your

feet, are feeling uncomfortable with the climbing, feeling ill, or anything else. Please bring it to the attention of one of

your guide(s). We usually have a lot of tricks to make your hike/ climb more comfortable, safe, and enjoyable. Tell us

before it become a problem; we have probably seen it before!

8.) Water, drink plenty of water, it cannot be stressed enough! By the time you are thirsty you are already dehydrated.

Please drink plenty of WATER.

a) We carry water filters for your health; our guides will be carrying them. You can use them if you wish. We will

discuss water safety and it is your choice if you use the filter or not.

b) We will melt snow on winter climbs; the snow is not a problem.

9.) In case of an emergency, contact the guide which is in sight (see rules 1&2), he/she is trained to handle emergencies in

the wilderness. We carry cellular phones and radios on most trips. If you get lost stay put, we will find you.

10.) The goal of every SWS trip is to enjoy the Mountains and come away with a sense of accomplishment.

Mountaineering, is like life it is the journey not the summit which is important, the summit is just icing on the cake.

11.) Have a good time and enjoy your-self

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POST TRIP GUIDE RESPONSIBILITIES

Contact main office and let us know you have returned within 2 hours

Collect all SWS gear, check gear against equipment check list.

Clean and Wash all cooking equipment and put away in proper location

Dry all tents and other equipment

Report all used, broken, or equipment in need of repair on Post Trip Report

o Label broken and/or equipment in need of repair

o DO NOT PLACE BACK IN SERVICE

Complete Post Trip Report and file in Office within 24 hours including:

o Client Roster

o Gear Checkout list

o Liability Forms

o Medical Forms

o Evaluation Forms (if complete)

o Expense Receipts

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GENERAL EMERGENCY PROCEDURES & RESPONSE

Guides must be prepared to deal with any emergency situations that may arise on a trip. While planning and leading a

trip, emphasis must be on sound decisions and leadership in order to avoid such situations. However, it must be

acknowledged that even the best training, planning and leadership cannot completely eliminate the possibility of

accidents, illness or emergencies. Contingency plans must be made beforehand so that the guide may be prepared to deal

with emergencies in the most effective and timely manner possible.

The guide must be aware of possible hazards as well as the types of emergency situations that could arise on an outing.

Possible emergencies can include:

Injuries to clients

Injuries to the guide

Injuries & Emergencies to outside parties

o NOTE: Guides should assist other parties if the safety of clients is not compromised in any way.

If it is not possible to assist without jeopardizing your clients’ safety, offer to get outside

assistance.

Weather related emergencies (cold temperatures, navigational problems, etc…)

Should these or other emergencies occur, the guide must deal with them in a systematic and effective manner. The

following guidelines are included in an effective emergency plan.

Scene assessment, what hazards still exist?

Primary survey and treatment, airway, breathing, circulation, level of consciousness

Secondary survey, head to toe examination

Stabilization of patient

Make evacuation plan, will outside assistance be required?

Implementation of plan

Filling out paperwork, incident report

Get witness statements.

If a client requires evacuation, stay with the client and call for help if possible. In some instances you may have to send an

able client for help. If there is no one you can send or trust to get out promptly and/or safely, go yourself. Administer first

aid and make the client as comfortable as possible prior to departing. All incidents involving injuries need to be well

documented. Vital signs should be monitored and recorded where appropriate and incident reports should be filled out as

completely as possible. All incident reports and witness statements should be filled out as soon as possible (see guidelines

for handling an accident)

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SWS EMERGENCY PLAN AND PROCEDURES

In case of an Emergency:

1.) Take care of client according to your medical training

a. Maintain safety of yourself and other members of the group

b. Prevent farther injury to the client or other clients.

2.) Abort trip/summit attempt as necessary.

3.) Contact Rescue Personnel via cellular phone or radio, or by sending an assistant guide and a client out for help.

Note: Leader cellular phones need to be fully activated to call all numbers.

Assistant guides can be 911 emergency only; contact office if you do not own a cell phone. Contact Leader via radio if

needed.

Contact Protocol:

a. 911 for Sheriff Department/ Search and Rescue

b. Forest Service or Park Service Department 530-926-4511.

c. SWS Mountain Guides office 1.888.797.6867

Or Dave’s Cell at 1-866.797.6867

d. Report accident to Insurance agency with 24 hrs – Done by SWS Office

e. Submit written Accident Report to SWS Office within 24 hours

4.) Evacuate Client to safe area and wait for help, perform first aid as trained.

5.) Record necessary information about accident or incident on report forms

6.) Follow guidelines in Policy and Procedure Manual for handling an accident.

7.) File full report to Insurance Agency and Sierra Wilderness Seminars office.

33

IMPORTANT EMERGENCY PHONE NUMBERS

Remember to contact both Sheriff Department and National Park or

Forest Service and then SWS Mountain Guides

Mt. Shasta Wilderness Area --Emergency 911

Sheriff Rescue: Emergency 911

Mt. Shasta Ranger District: 530-926-4511

Mt. Shasta Route and Avy info: 530-926-9614

Emergency Command Center: 530-242-2400

Mountain Rescue Frequency: 155.60

Inyo National Forest-- Emergency 911

Whitney Ranger District 760-876-6200

White Mountain Ranger Station Bishop 760-873-2500

Mammoth Ranger Station 760-924-5500

Lee Vining Ranger Station 760-647-3000

Lassen Volcanic National Park -- Emergency 911

Sheriff/Rescue Emergency 911

Lassen National Headquarters 530-595-4444

Sequoia/ Kings Canyon National Park -- Emergency 911

Sequoia/Kings Headquarters 559-565-3341

Joshua Tree National Park -- Emergency 911

Contact: Federal Interagency

Communications Center 909-383-5651

Contact as a back-up: Emergency 911

Joshua Tree National Park Headquarters 760-367-5500

34

SWS POLICY AND PROCEDURES FOR HANDLING AN ACCIDENT

WHAT TO SAY, NOT SAY; DO, AND NOT DO

Often, the opportunity to defend an Insured against frivolous litigation is lost in the first few days after the accident

occurs. As time goes by, memories fade, details are forgotten, and the opportunity to put a professional face on the entire

incident disappears. Quite often, litigation attorneys wait until the statute of limitations has almost expired to file the

lawsuit. Their hope, and, too often the unfortunate reality is, that much key information has been lost or forgotten. By

waiting to do good accident documentation, you will give the plaintiff the advantage. The sooner you put you accident

report together, the better our chances are of affecting a successful defense. You have agreed to the terms of the

insurance contract to report all accidents, occurrences, and claims IMMEDIATELY after they occur.

In handling accidents, there are generally two jobs that need to be assigned if you have the personnel and the talent.

Small operations may need to combine these responsibilities under one individual. One job is that of the Accident

Coordinator. This person handles all interaction with the injured, the family members, and the press. The other job is that

of the Accident Investigator. The investigator is responsible for gathering witness statements, official reports from

government agencies like law enforcement, hospital reports, and coroner’s reports. (S)He is the person who will work

most closely with Claims Direct Access (CDA), the claims department, to help develop the defense. You and your

management personnel will work closely with CDA and Risk Management Direct (RMD) before and after the accident.

This teamwork is essential if we are going to achieve our mutual goals of protecting our combined assets.

The following guidelines will help you handle accident situations properly, which will save you time and money.

Remember, time is of the essence. Any delays could end up costing you and your industry thousands of dollars in legal fees

and higher insurance premiums.

I. YOUR RELATIONSHIP TO THE INJURED PERSON

Law suits are more likely to be filed by people who feel that that the Insured did not demonstrate concern for their well-

being. Injured persons should be treated with compassion and concern for their physical as well as emotional needs. Go to

the hospital, call and inquire as to the injured person’s condition, follow up, and get to know the person. WE are much less

likely to sue our friends. If there was a fatality involved your company should send representatives to the funeral, which

would most likely consist of a key member of you management and, if any of your staff were directly involved, one of them

as well.

Remember to assess and attend to the needs of any other participants who were involved, as well as to the needs of your

staff. They may be used as witnesses later, and their impressions of how the situation was handled could be very

important.

35

Staff should not make guarantees of a speedy emergency response or inadvertently made admissions of guilt or

wrongdoing. Do not address the cause of the accident verbally or in writing if it involves opinion, conjecture, or

speculation. Concern and empathy for what they are experiencing can be expressed without admitting guilt.

II. HOW AND WHEN TO USE THE EXCESS MEDICAL PROVISION OF YOUR POLICY

Your policy contains an excess medical provision which may help pay for an injured person’s out-of-pocket medical

expenses. If they have their own medical insurance coverage, they will most likely have a deductible and a co-payment.

The excess medical coverage is designed to help injured persons with these expenses. This coverage is considered in excess

of their primary coverage and is exercised at the discretion of the insurance company. Look for red flags such as

statements by the injured person regarding financial hardships and say, “Our liability insurance policy may be able to

help you with your out-of –pocket medical expenses. You should call and submit you medical bills to the Claims Manger, at

Toll free 877-243-8182, or Fax 887-452-6909.” Do not guarantee that it will be available, even though 90% of our claims

are resolved by offering the excess med-pay in return for a signed release of all past, present, and future claims.

III. THE FULL WRITTEN REPORT

You will need to make a thorough written report as soon as possible. Use the Accident Report Form and answer all the

questions and enclose all requested information. Keep in mind that this report and any of your program documentation is

“discoverable.” This means that a litigating attorney can and probably will request copies, and by law you have to comply

with his/her request. Therefore, avoid any written statements that could be used as the foundation of allegations against

you in a lawsuit. Stick to the facts: who, what, where, and when, but never why.

IV. WITNESSES

One good supportive witness statement can shut down frivolous litigation completely. Therefore, you and your staff

should do your best to get even one witness statement. Other participants, spectators and your staff should all fill out the

enclosed Statement of Accident form, if possible. Your staff should also write down anything that the injured person(s)

or the witnesses say regarding the accident. Their stories may change after an attorney gets an opportunity to coach

them.

V. PHOTOGRAPHS

Photographs of the accident location should be obtained, if possible. Be sure to get close-ups as well as shots taken from

further back that depict the larger picture. If your company owns vehicles it would be a good idea to keep a disposable

camera in each vehicle in case of an accident.

VI. EQUIPMENT

Your equipment’s condition and suitability will almost always be a subject of litigation. It is essential that you keep

maintenance records to show that all equipment is inspected regularly and has a preventative maintenance schedule.

Equipment inspections must be documented as well as repairs. If the manufacturer has specifications for use and

maintenance of a particular piece of equipment, it must be followed.

36

Any of your equipment that is involved in an accident should be pulled from your equipment inventory, inspected by an

independent professional that provides a written report regarding the equipment’s condition before being put back into

service in your equipment inventory. Broken or faulty equipment should be removed immediately and secured until

repaired. There is an “Equipment & Maintenance Documentation Log” included on page 15.

VII. DEALING WITH THE NEWS MEDIA

Dealing with reporters at the scene of an accident can be frustrating and confusing. Your company should designate a

company spokesperson, usually a member of key management, who is to handle all inquires by the press and issue a

statement or press release. At the time of the accident, it is best for staff to simply say, “We do not have any comments or

statements at this time. Please contact management at… for more information.” In the event of a fatality, you can also get

persistent reporters to be reasonable by saying “Information will not be released until the next of kin have been notified.”

VIII. DEALING WITH THE FAIMILY OF THE INJURED OR DECEASED

Contrary to what a lot of insurance companies counsel, we know that it is important to do whatever you can to show

compassion and empathy for those individuals who either were injured or are related to a participant fatally injured. Use

your best judgment as to how close you get to the family. YOU may choose to maintain your distance, find it appropriate

to visit them in the hospital, or even go to the funeral. The risk Management and Claims Department have considerable

experience in these matters and you should contact them if you have any questions or doubts about what to do.

IX. DEALING WITH PUBLIC AUTHORITY (POLICE-FIRE-MEDICAL EXAMINER-REGULATORY ENFORCEMENT)

When having to deal with public authority due to an incident, there

are three (3) very important guidelines to adhere to: 1) Never lie or

exaggerate, 2) Never guess, speculate or voice an assumption (if you

don’t know, simply say you don’t know), and 3) Never sign anything,

or give a statement without receiving a copy of what you sign and

any statement you gave. Do not hesitate to request your attorney be

present.

37

SWS MOUNTAIN GUIDES INJURY AND ILLNESS PREVENTION PROGRAM

Person Responsible for Implementation: David Cressman - Chief Operations Officer (COO)

IDENTIFICATION OF WORKPLACE HAZARDS:

OFFICE:

1. Keep draws and cabinet doors closed do not leave open

2. Shut off all office equipment when servicing or maintaining equipment

3. Keep equipment room clean and neat and remove and put away equipment from front room

4. All Automatic equipment is to used only by trained and authorized personnel, trained by the safety director.

5. All areas are to be kept clean and neat and all walk areas clear of equipment.

THE FIELD:

1. Guides are to be aware of objective hazards in the wilderness environment.

2. Equipment to be used in the field either personal or company should be maintained and used in accordance to

manufactures recommendations and / or accepted mountaineering practice.

3. Guides are to keep up to date on current mountaineering, skiing, and backpacking techniques.

IMPLEMENT EMPLOYEE AND SUPERVISOR TRAINING:

1. Twice yearly guides meetings are held to discuss and bring up to date guides to current techniques and discuss any

safety factors and solutions, including in field training sessions.

2. Guides are required to maintain a valid CPR, Wilderness First Aid, Wilderness First Responder or better.

3. Winter Guides are required to have certified Avalanche level I, II or III depending on the course and technical level of

the area guided.

4. Office personal are to attend bi-annual guides meetings as well

5. Guides are required to keep the office updated with all certificates of training.

MAINTAIN SAFETY AND HEALTH RECORDS

1. Ropes are to be maintained and inspected after every use.

2. Slings are to be inspected and replace as necessary.

3. Equipment is to be inspected after every use in the field

38

4. Any injury or illness is to be logged with the director in the office and the situation in which it occurred

5. Guides carry accident report forms for reporting of accidents in the field

PLAN FOR FIRST AID AND MEDICAL ASSISTANCE

OFFICE:

1. 911 is recorded on speed dial

2. First aid kits are available in the office Storage Room

FIELD:

1. Guides carry group first aid kits

2. Guides are current and trained in wilderness first aid and CPR or better

3. Guides are given knowledge of who to contact in each area for medical assistance

4. Depending on the type of climb and area Guides will carry cellular phones and/or two-way radios for communication.

INFORMING MANAGEMENT OF HAZARDS

1. Guides are encouraged to inform management with trip reports with any information needed to maintain safety in the

field. Or of any issues which could become a problem in the future with guides or clients

2. Guides and employees are encouraged to bring up any safety problems directly to the director or safety officer.

3. Guidelines are set forth in the employee policy and procedure manual.

PLAN FOR ACCIDENT INVESTIGATION

1. The Safety Officer will investigate all Accidents & incidents and a full report will be filed with the SWS director, as well

to the insurance company and the permit issuer depending on the venue.

2. The accident investigation findings will be brought up at the next guides meetings and copies of the report given to

each guide with recommendations and change in policy if needed.

39

MT. WHITNEY SUMMER ASCENT PROGRAM SAMPLE ITINERARY

Itinerary:

Meet in our office Elevations Climbing Shop NW corner of Hwy 395 & Whitney Portal Road

Time: 7:00 am -- ALL Mt. Whitney Climbs & Course Meet at 7:00 am

Date: First day of the course

DAY 1: Meet and greet everyone at our office.

o Fill out all appropriate paperwork.

o Guides will go through everyone’s packs to make sure they have everything they need.

o Remind clients about BEARS at the trailhead, NO FOOD IN VEHICLES!

o Carpool to Whitney Portal Trailhead.

o Hike up to high camp at Upper Boy Scout Lake 11,000 feet.

o Orientation and Briefing about the Alpine Start, What to pack, and Weather & Route

conditions. Usually about 1-2 hours.

o Dinner

o To bed by early

DAY 2: Summit Climb of Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer's Route

o Wake up between 2-3 am depending on elevation and temperature.

o Guides will have boiling water available for breakfast.

o Moving by 3:30-4:30 am

o Summit before noon.

o Back to camp around 1-3 pm

o Rest and Relax

DAY 3: Decent from High Camp to Whitney Portal Trailhead

o Leisurely morning, cook breakfast and pack up

o Descend to trailhead arrive between noon and 3 pm

What’s included?

We supply the tents, stoves, dinner & breakfast along with hot drinks, helmets, harnesses, and all technical

equipment, water purification systems, permits and permit fee

What You Must Bring:

Equipment list is provided, but you are responsible for you’re: Pack, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, personal

clothing, and boots along with snacks and lunches. Rentals are available but limited in the Mt. Whitney office

AFTER COURSE:

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o Thank you clients and Ask if their are any questions

o Collect all SWS Mountain Guides Gear

o Report in to the SWS Office

o Fill out Post Trip report

Notes:

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MT. SHASTA SUMMIT ASCENT PROGRAM SAMPLE ITINERARY

Itinerary:

Meet in our office at 210 East Lake St, Mt. Shasta.

Time: 8:00 am Date: First day of the course

DAY 1: Meet and greet everyone at our office.

o Fill out all appropriate paperwork.

o Guides will go through everyone’s packs to make sure they have everything they need.

o Carpool to Bunny Flat Trailhead.

o Hike up to high camp somewhere between 9000-10000 feet. We do not camp at Helen Lake.

o Participate in an Ice Axe and Crampon Clinic. Usually about 2-3 hours.

o Dinner

o To bed by 8pm

DAY 2: Summit Climb of Mt. Shasta via the South Side Route (Avalanche Gulch).

o Wake up between 1-2 am depending on elevation and temperature.

o Guides will have boiling water available for breakfast.

o Moving by 2:30-3:30 am

o Summit between 10- 12 noon.

o Back to camp around 2-3 pm

o Break camp and get back to cars around 5-6 pm

What’s included?

We supply the tents, stoves, dinner & breakfast along with hot drinks, ice axes, helmets, harnesses, and all technical

equipment.

What You Must Bring:

Equipment list is provided, but you are responsible for you’re: Pack, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, personal clothing, boots

and crampons along with snacks and lunches. Rentals are available.

AFTER COURSE:





Notes:

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ICE AXE AND CRAMPON CLINIC SAMPLE COURSE OUTLINE

Goals for this course: The basic Snow Course is a foundation course. The main goal for this course is to get people to

become comfortable climbing on steep snow terrain, using good footwork and balance. Skills such as rope travel and

knots are secondary to this above goal, but should be covered if time allows.

AT THE OFFICE:

1. Check equipment as per equipment list.

2. Issue rental equipment as needed. Check off gear issued on Cover Sheet.

3. Issue helmet and harness with locking carabiner.

4. Give Safety Briefing

5. Give weather talk regarding climb

DRIVE UP TO BUNNY FLAT OR OLD SKI BOWL

AT CLASS AREA:

DEMONSTRATE CRAMPON USAGE:

1. Discuss dangers of using crampons. Discuss conditions under which one would not want to use crampons,

soft snow, glissading. Discuss types of crampons and suitability.

2. Demonstrate how to put on crampons securely. Check fit of all clients crampons, those supplied by us as well

as those supplied by clients

3. Have clients practice walking with crampons. Look for some firmer snow, or pack down an area to use for

crampon practice.

DISCUSS 4 LEVELS OF SAFETY:

1. In-Balance Climbing (with crampons):

Footwork: demonstrate kicking steps, duck foot, French Technique, hybrid technique,

traversing, balanced position, turning. Discuss Rest Step and demonstrate good balance and the

need to not hug the slope. When possible, have clients practice in-balance climbing on a

moderate snow slope, demonstrate flat foot technique and it’s relation to French technique.

2. Self Belay (w/out crampons):

Introduce ice axe to the footwork. Demonstrate how to hold. Demonstrate and repeat

above. Discuss need to always maintain at least 2 points of contact. Demonstrate self-

belay and self arrest grip on ice axe

3. Self Arrest (w/out crampons):

Talk about self arrest being the last defense and how difficult it can be to do one steep

terrain. Demonstrate all 3 positions and glissading:

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Feet downhill on backside.

Head first on stomach.

Head first on back.

Glissading, sitting position only, mention need to not glissade with crampons.

Have client practice all 3 self arrest positions both right and left handed.

4. Roped travel (w/out crampons):

Introduce harness, demonstrate. Introduce rope, and talk about dynamic properties.

Demonstrate and teach knots (Fig 8, Butterfly, and Overhand) with cow’s tail. Practice climbing

with rope. Talk about necessity of keeping rope tight. Monitor and reiterate good footwork and

ice axe usage. Make sure to do at least one transition from short roping to belayed

climbing.

AFTER COURSE:

o Thank you clients and Ask if there are any questions




Notes:

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BASIC MOUNTAINEERING CLINIC SAMPLE COURSE OUTLINE

Goals for this course: The Basic Mountaineering is the next step after the Ice Ax Clinic the main goals of the

course are to expose clients to various anchoring and belaying methods. Secondary to these technical goals is

the establishing of good footwork and balance on steep snow. Often, there are different clients wanting

different knowledge. It is up to the guide to make sure that client’s learning needs are met. A client should be

ready to learn crevasse rescue technique after taking this course.

AT MEETING PLACE:

1. Check equipment as per equipment list.

2. Issue rental equipment as needed. Check of gear issued on Cover Sheet

3. Issue helmet and harness with locking carabiner


5. Give weather talk regarding climb.

HIKE OUT TO COURSE AREA:

Monitor client physical condition and balance on the way.

AT CLASS AREA:

1. Steep Snow Climbing Techniques:

o Balance

o Footwork

o Ice Axe (explain techniques and circumstances for each position)

o Stake position

o Horizontal position

o Cross body position

o Piolet traction

o High dagger

o Low dagger

2. Anchors

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o Ice Axe in T-slot, fluke, picket

o Practice each method of anchor placement and talk about the snow conditions specific to each

type of anchor

3. Equalization

o Teach methods of equalization for snow anchors and have clients practice each method. Make

sure to cover tied off cordellete, clove hitch and simple equalization.

4. Snow Bollard

o Discuss size and shape in regards to snow conditions

5. Belay Techniques

o Hip Belay

o Sitting Hip Belay

o Using a belay device and Munter Hitch

o Standing Axe Belay

o Teach how to tie into the belay anchor and make a sitting stance

o Have clients catch sliding falls with sitting stance and anchor

6. Discuss and practice mutli-pitch procedures. Have clients lead a mock multi-pitch snow climb in the

gully.

AFTER COURSE:





Notes:

46

CREVASSE RESCUE COURSE OUTLINE SAMPLE ITINERARY

o Goals for this course: Primary goals for this course include: arresting a fall and transferring weight at an

anchor, protection oneself while rescuing a victim and exposure to various methods of mechanical advantages

for hauling. Secondary goals include team roping considerations, and glacial navigation. If time allows, rope

ascension can be covered. This is a big day in the classroom.

o AT MEETING PLACE:

Check equipment as per equipment list.

Issue equipment as needed. Check off gear issued on equipment check list

Issue helmet and harness with locking carabiner.

Give Safety Briefing.

COURSE OUTLINE:

1. Review basic glacial navigation. Stress the importance of good route finding in alleys as a way of staying out of

crevasse danger.

2. Review Roping Techniques

o Discuss distances between climbers for 2 to 4 person teams, based on season and magnitude of the

crevasse danger.

o Cover proper methods for tying in to rope for harness using Kiwi Coil, pack as well as discussing the

chest harness. Have clients practice Kiwi Coil.

3. Review Anchoring

4. Discuss the equipment needed per person:

o set of prussiks or ascenders

o anchor

o pulleys

o cordelletes

o 6 carabiners

5. Explain and practice the knots needed for rescue

o prussik or klemheist

o munter hitch w/ mule knot tie off

6. Discuss and practice how to transfer the weight of the fallen climber onto the anchor using the munter hitch and mu

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7. Have clients divide up the rope, attach klemheist or prussik properly and organize their gear, including having an

accessible anchor. Then have them arrest the fall, dig an anchor and transfer the weight properly.

8. Demonstrate pulley systems

o explain types of ratchets (garda, pulley/ascender, klemheist/ pulley etc)

o 2:1

o 3:1

o 5:1

9. Discuss actual steps of the rescue:

o arrest fall, dig anchor

o transfer weight

o rescuer must protect himself to go down t o the edge

o pad edge

o assess victim’s medical condition

o get victim’s pack

o perform the type of rescue that the situation calls for

o remember to use a back up anchor if needed

10. Have clients perform simulations, alternation victims

11. Discuss methods of rope ascension, Texas and mechanical ascenders. Use the chimney if possible to practice ascending

a rope.

AFTER COURSE:





Notes:

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BASIC ICE CLIMBING COURSE SAMPLE ITINERARY

Goals for this course: To introduce clients to basic movement skills on varying angles of ice, and give them an

introductory exposure to anchors in ice.

AT MEETING PLACE:

1. Check equipment as per itinerary and equipment list.

2. Issue gear as needed

3. Issue helmet and harness


AT CLASS AREA:

1. Choose an area to climb in that is free from objective hazards such as rock fall and has enough room to move around

without getting too close to big drops. This area should be used to teach basic footwork and balance using flat-footing

technique.

2. Demonstrate and discuss French and French/Front technique on moderately steep ice. Discuss different axe positions,

Cane, cross body, low dagger, high dagger etc. and applicability. Have clients practice. Use a top-rope if slope is steep or

has bad run out. Briefly discuss types of crampons and applicability.

3. Demonstrate and discuss Front Pint technique and proper use of ice tools. Have clients practice. All exposed climbing

must be belayed. Try to set up a top rope that allows you to see and evaluate the client while climbing.

4. Teach relevant knots, Figure 8, Clove Hitch, and Munter Hitch.

5. Demonstrate different types of belays, Hip Belay, Figure 8, Belay Plate, and Munter Hitch and discuss applicability.

Have clients practice.

6. Demonstrate and have clients practice ice screw placement.

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7. Discuss the need for and build a bomber anchor and demonstrate how to tie in to it. Have clients practice. Discuss

different types of anchors and their applicability.

8. Discuss and demonstrate rappelling. Have clients practice. All rappels should be belayed.

9. If clients are able and time allows, have them do a simulated lead climb, placing protection as they go. All lead climbing

will be top-roped.

AFTER COURSE:





Notes:

50

BASIC ROCK COURSE OUTLINE SAMPLE ITINERARY

Goals for this course: The primary goals of this course are teaching introductory movement skills, as well as

introductory belaying skills. After this course clients should understand how a top rope safety system works.

AT MEETING PLACE:

1. Check equipment as per itinerary and equipment list.

2. Issue helmets, harnesses and rental shoes as needed.

3. Give Safety Briefing.

AT CLIMBING AREA:

1. Find an easy bouldering area to demonstrate balance and footwork. Have clients practice.

2. Demonstrate harness; emphasize importance of double checking buckle.

3. Discuss the rope and its strength and properties. Discuss care and handling.

4. Demonstrate figure 8 tie in knot. Have clients practice. Emphasize importance of double checking

tie-in

5. Discuss and demonstrate belay with belay plate. Demonstrate difference between belaying a

leader and belaying a second. Make sure you are comfortable with the clients belaying ability

before you lead a route. Discuss the Grigri only after the client has demonstrated competence with

traditional belay device. Teach belaying commands, “On belay?”, “Belay on!” “Climbing”, “Climb”.

Emphasize importance of double checking tie-in, harness buckles, and locking belay carabiner

before climbing

6. Choose an easy first climb to set up for the clients. Monitor their belaying skills and demonstrate

good climbing technique while you climb. Consider rappelling from a climb rather than having

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clients lower you. Do not top-rope through fixed gear. Do a progression of climbs that gives the

client a sense of satisfaction and accomplishment. Give them good feedback, technical instruction

and encouragement. Clients should wear a helmet while climbing or rappelling as well as

whenever you feel there is a reasonable chance of rock fall.

7. Have the clients belay each other. Consider having a backup belayer when clients are belaying.

8. Discuss and demonstrate rappelling. Always use a top-rope belay while clients are rappelling.

AFTER COURSE:





Notes:

52

SOME GENERAL INFORMATION

Food, Feet, Drink, Hygiene, Altitude, Attitude and You

One of the definitions of adventure is when the outcome of an undertaking is uncertain. By this definition

mountaineering certainly qualifies. We go to the mountains for many reasons but a common one for most people

is the adventurous nature of the experience. But the same variables that contribute to the feelings of joy and

excitement we can get in the mountains, can also cause problems and discomfort if not taken into account by

those planning an adventure into the alpine world. This brief overview of some of the more important issues

concerning the health and safety of all hikers or mountaineers and their impact on the mountains is provided to

help you take more control over your own well being while on your trip.

Altitude: As altitude is gained and the atmospheric pressure drops there is less available oxygen in the air. The

percentage of oxygen remains the same but there is less per given volume. At 18,000 feet the atmospheric

pressure and the pressure of oxygen in the air is only half that at sea level. Our bodies undergo complex, and as

yet not fully understood changes, to compensate for the lack of oxygen. At moderate heights (8,000’-10,000’) most

people coming from sea level start to notice shortness of breath that can progress to tiredness, headache, and flu-

like symptoms. Usually this will subside after a day or two at altitude. At higher elevations these problems can be

much more severe.

It takes longer than the length of most trips to fully acclimate to altitude but there are a few things you can do to

facilitate the process: 1) Spend the night before your trip begins at the trailhead campground or lodge. About

6,000 ft. elevations seems to be optimum for most people. This gives you a head start with the altitude. 2) Try and

be well rested, fed and hydrated at the start of your trip. 3) Avoid alcohol and other drugs immediately before and

during your trip. 4) Drink lots of water and reduce caffeine intake. 5) Pace yourself, breathe. Slow and steady is

the way to go.

Hydration: How much water do you think you drink in a typical day at home or work? Most of us need to drink

at least 4-6 quarts in a day of climbing or hiking; more on a hot day. That’s a lot more than most people drink in

the city, but drinking enough water is the easiest thing you can do to avoid problems with altitude, fatigue, heat

and cold. Dehydration is a contributing factor in almost all health problems in the mountains. Do not include

caffeine or alcoholic drinks when gauging your fluid intake. They actually dehydrate your body. We encourage

the use of “Sports Drinks” – they do help replace lost electrolytes, and besides, they make the water you need to

drink more appealing – something that’s important in a situation where natural hunger and thirst responses are

suppressed.

Food: When SWS Mountain Guides provides the dinners, breakfasts and hot drinks, there are no decisions to be

made – we know how much and what kind of foods are best for each type of activity. You are bringing snacks

and/or lunches, there are some important choices to consider. Contrary to the popular image of increased

appetites in the “Great Outdoors”, most people experience diminished appetites at the increased altitudes of most

53

of our seminars. Though your body is working much harder and using up to 5,000-10,000 calories a day, or

roughly twice the normal expenditure, many times you just won’t feel like eating. This is why it’s important to

make every calorie count. Choose foods that are high in complex carbohydrates, for sustained energy, and have

flavors that you strongly like. Remember that this is one place fats are okay. You won’t have to worry about

gaining weight – many folks lose weight on a trip! Try to eat small amounts frequently – even if you don’t feel like

it. On our more strenuous trips, you’ll get used to your guide urging you to eat, eat, eat. Finger foods work best,

so look for whole grain bars, trail mixes (usually labeled “super” or “deluxe”), dried fruit, "sport" bars, energy

bars, bagels, hard cheese (yes, it will go bad, but not in the first day or two) and other compact, tasty choices. Go

for as much variety as possible, but remember, you’ve got to eat it or the weight in your pack is just wasted – so

forget the jar of peanut butter, bring the shelled peanuts.

Sanitation: Human waste should be disposed of at least 200 feet from trails, campsites, and water sources. Sold

human waste should be buried 6-8 inches underground in mineral soil and toilet paper should be packed out or

burned. There are other methods for waste disposal depending on the specific environment and location of your

trip; your guide will provide more information.

Obviously, staying clean in the backcountry is not as easy as it is in the city. Soap has no place in the mountains

but individually packaged alcohol towelettes or wet wipes are great for cleaning hands, a task that is just as

important in the mountains as it is at home, especially when preparing or handling food.

Foot care: Even perfect feet in the best boots can be prone to problems. A bad blister can ruin a trip, so it’s

important to fix irritating hot spots before they become serious trouble. Hot spots on your feet, caused by friction

between your foot and boot, should be repaired with moleskin when they first appear. Don’t worry about slowing

down the group to stop; most folks appreciate the break. Come prepared with plenty of moleskin and some

Vaseline. A thin layer of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) applied to all potentially troublesome areas is an inexpensive

and effective blister prevention technique. It is a bit messy, so be prepared for stained sock liners, but happier

feet!

The summit is only 49% of the climb... Getting to the top of a mountain can be the easy part of the climb. Now

that you’re on top, you’ve to to get down, only now you’re tired, clouds are building, and napping sounds more

like what you’d rather be doing. Don’t forget to budget enough mental as well as physical energy for the descent.

Remember, summits only count when you’ve returned safely to the cars and can tell someone about it!

Impact: Our prime directive when in the backcountry is simply to “Leave No Trace” leave it as we found it,

maybe even a little bit better. That means: no noodles in the lake bottom, no tent burns in the meadows and no

toilet paper strewn about. Wood fires are used only in emergencies; small backpacking stoves are far easier to

cook on. When in the mountains, we must remember that we are only visitors passing through a fragile

environment. Your guide is a “Leave No Trace” instructor and will instruct you on the proper procedures in the

particular environment you are in. Any questions, just ask your guide.

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Packing: If you are in doubt about something on the equipment list or have any questions, please give our office

a call. Feel free to take extra items in the car with you. We will be doing a pack check at the trailhead and you

can ask your guide then about bringing them along. In the mountains, having the proper equipment can save your

life. You must bring all the items on the equipment list. Our guides try to bring some extra gear with them to the

trailhead, but they can only do so much. If you fail to bring the proper equipment, SWS Mountain Guides reserves

the right to send you home without a refund. Also, you will be required to carry your share of the group

equipment (food, stoves, tents), so leave some extra room in that pack! As always, give us a call if you have any

questions.

v13.9

55

PAYMENTS, TRANSFERS, WEATHER CREDITS, CANCELLATIONS & REFUND POLICY

Domestic Seminars:

A non-refundable 50% deposit is required with each reservation and the BALANCE is due 30 days prior to the course

starting date. In the event you cancel your reservation 30 days or more before the course start date the balance of your

course fee is refundable. We are sorry, but NO REFUNDS will be made within 30 days prior to the course starting date.

Custom Seminars/ Private Guiding:

A non-refundable 50% deposit is required with each reservation and the BALANCE is due 30 days prior to the course

starting date. In the event you cancel your reservation 30 days or more before the course start date the balance of your

course fee is refundable. We are sorry, but NO REFUNDS will be made within 30 days prior to the course starting date.

International Expeditions & Treks:

A 50% deposit is required with each International Expedition or Trek reservation and the BALANCE is due 90 days prior to

the course starting date. In the event you cancel your reservation between 90-60 days before the course, a $1,000.00

cancellation fee is required and the balance of your course fee is refunded. Between 60-45 days prior to the course a 50%

cancellation fee is required with the balance refunded. We are sorry, but NO REFUNDS will be made within 45 days prior

to the course starting date.

Transfer Fees:

You may transfer your domestic course fee (deposit and balance) to another scheduled course when we receive a $75.00 non-

refundable transfer fee within 21 days prior to your domestic course date. Transfers within 21 days prior to your domestic

course is by discretion of SWS Mountain Guides director(s) only. Note: Policy does not apply to International Treks and

Expeditions.

Canceled Courses:

SWS Mountain Guides aka Sierra Wilderness Seminars Inc. reserves the right to cancel and/or reschedule seminars due to

inadequate minimum sign-ups or other unforeseen circumstances. You will receive a full refund of course fee when the

course is canceled within 24 hours before the starting date. However, SWS Mountain Guides aka Sierra Wilderness Seminars

Inc. is not responsible for additional expenses incurred including non-refundable airline tickets, equipment, medical

expenses etc. We recommend you obtain trip cancellation insurance to protect yourself. You can get Cancellation Insurance

information by logging onto our website at: www.swsmountainguides.com and clicking on the reservation page for a link to

cancellation insurance.

Weather Credits and Rescheduled Seminars:

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SWS Mountain Guides aka Sierra Wilderness Seminars Inc. reserves the right to reschedule seminars and/or courses due to

severe weather conditions or other uncontrollable circumstances which make the course or climb unsafe to continue.

Weather Credit or Weather Partial Credit will be given for a course or climb during or within 24 hrs of the course start

dates, if severe weather conditions or other uncontrollable circumstances make the course or climb unsafe to continue. This

decision will be at the discretion of the climb leader and /or the Director(s) of SWS Mountain Guides.

Note: Weather credits is an in-house-credit which can be used on rescheduled courses or any other SWS Mountain Guides

course or climb within one year of date of issue. Weather credits can be extended beyond the one year time limit, if you

contact SWS Mountain Guides and request an extension.

Gratuities:

Tipping/Gratuities are customary on guided trips. If you are pleased with the service provided by your guide or instructor

and/or if the guide has gone beyond the scope of instruction to help you with the enjoyment of your course or climb then a

gratuity is always appreciated.

v13.9

57

PHYSICAL CONDITIONING

The type of climb, course or expedition you are booking will determine the level of conditioning needed. Give us a call if

you have questions. You should be in good to excellent physical condition, as all our climbs and courses occur at altitude

and in the mountain environment. It is very important to train or do some type of physical conditioning prior to your trip.

For advanced level courses or with altitudes above 14,000 ft., a conditioning and training program is required. The idea

behind any conditioning program is to do some aerobic activity at least 3-5 times a week. Sitting at a desk or behind the

steering wheel obviously does not add to your physical health or overall conditioning. We have found that some of our

best-conditioned clients do a lot of walking. Walk whenever possible. Use the stairs instead of the elevator. Ride a bike or

walk to work or to the store. Park your car at the farthest point in the parking lot at the office or the store and walk! The

more walking that you do, the better trained you will be.

Warning: Before embarking on any exercise or conditioning program, please consult your physician.

Aerobic: It is known that walking 30 minutes each day is a good way to condition for all ages. It is easy, accessible and

relaxing. Walking, speed walking or jogging with a pack of 20-25 lbs. is an even better way to condition. To approximate

carrying a pack, it is a good idea to work with lightweight (20-25 lbs) in your pack at least once a week while training.

According to researchers, running steadily for 20-30 minutes each day, keeping the heart rate up, is far more beneficial

than running for speed. The same holds true for all aerobic activity – be it swimming, jogging or bicycling. The idea is to

train your heart and lungs to increase your ability to efficiently use oxygen. You should train at least 3 times a week for

moderate courses and 4 to 5 times a week for strenuous courses, with at least 30 minutes of exercise each session. It is

good to include some hill work, either walking, running, or bicycling. Also good is soft sand walking or running with a

pack. Popular aerobics classes are also excellent conditioners. Use of a Versa-climber or Stairmaster is also appropriate.

Flexibility: This is an important factor in any outdoor activity. Stretching exercises are very important and should be

added to any conditioning program. A few minutes each day of bending and gently stretching will add to your overall

conditioning.

Training Levels:

Level I Conditioning: Ice Ax Clinics, Day Tours, Rock Clinics ; Plan to exercise at least 3 times a week for at least 20-30

minutes each session. Plus, plan to hike or walk with your day pack a couple of weekends before the trip. Include walking

on hilly terrain once a week.

Level II Conditioning: Basic Winter Mountaineering, Shasta Climbs/ Mt. Whitney Summer Ascents, Sierra Nevada

Summer Mountaineering, Tech Ice & Rock; Plan to train at least 3-4 times a week for at least 40-50 minutes each session

in one of the following categories or a mixture of each: running, bicycling, swimming, stair or elliptical machines. It is also

a good idea to include in your workout some type of flexibility training 3 times a week (stretching for at least 10 minutes).

Plan on including hikes or walks on hilly terrain with your pack weekly for overall conditioning.

Level III Conditioning: Winter/Spring Shasta Climbs/ Mt. Whitney Winter Ascents, Sierra Nevada Mountaineering, Ski/

Snowboarding; Training at least 4-5 times per week for at least 40-60 minutes each session in one of the following

categories or a mixture of each: running, bicycling, swimming, stair or ski machines. Include in your workout some type of

flexibility training 3 times a week (stretching for at least 10 minutes). Plan on including at least 2 hour weekend training

58

hikes and climbs with your loaded pack for overall conditioning. Running or walking stairs or stadium bleachers is

excellent training for climbing and mountaineering.

Level IV Conditioning: Expedition Training; Level IV training required 5 times per week for at least 3 days at 40-60

minutes each session, 2 days at 60 -120 minutes each session, in one of the following categories or mixture of each:

running, bicycling, swimming, stair master, ski machines, or other aerobic activities. It is also a good idea to include in

your workout some type of flexibility training 3 times a week (stretching for at least 15 minutes). Plan on including 4-

hour weekend training hikes and climbs with your loaded pack for over all conditioning (can count as a 60-120 minute

session). Other activities which will improve your conditioning for the expedition include; weight training for strength,

versa-climber, jogging with a light day-pack, and running stairs or hills. v13.9

59

GENERAL TRAVEL INFORMATION

SWS Mountain Guides Venues:

Mt. Shasta / Lassen National Park - SWS Mountain Guides Home Office 210 East Lake St. Mount Shasta, Ca. 96067:

Closest Commercial Airports:

Sacramento International Airport - 3.5 hour drive North to Mt. Shasta, CA.

Recommended: The airport is the State Capital of California, so lots of flights, Rental Cars are located on the Airport, the

Airport is about 5 miles North of Sacramento which means no traffic when heading north to Mt. Shasta, CA. Finally, an easy

drive up interstate 5 for about 3.5 hours.

Redding, CA - 1 hour drive North to Mt. Shasta, CA

Medford, OR - 1 1/2 hour drive south to Mt. Shasta, CA

Drive Times to Mt. Shasta, CA:

San Francisco, CA 5 hours depending on traffic and where you are in the bay area

Los Angeles, CA. 10 hours

Sacramento, CA. 3.5 hours

Mt. Whitney / Eastern Sierra Nevada:

Closest Commercial Airports:

Las Vegas International Airport - 4.5 hour drive North west to Lone Pine, CA.

Recommended: Las Vegas has lots of Flights, inexpensive lodging, easy departure from the city, Rental Cars are located at

the Airport. Finally, as a bonus you get to drive through Death Valley National Park on the way to Mt. Whitney.

Mammoth Lakes, CA - 1 3/4 hour drive south to Lone Pine, CA

Inyokern, CA- 1 1/4 hour drive north to Lone Pine, CA

Eastern Sierra Nevada:

Drive Times to Lone Pine, CA / Mt. Whitney

San Francisco, CA 7.5 hours

Los Angeles, CA 3.5 hours

Sacramento, CA 6.5 hours during the Summer / 7.5 hours during the Winter

Las Vegas, NV 4.5 hours

Please note we have additional venues and locations for our climbs and courses, by all means give us a call for travel

information especially during the winter months. California is a big state; it is an 8-9 hour drive from our Mt. Whitney, Lone

Pine, and CA. Office to our Main Office in Mt. Shasta, CA. So, don't hesitate to call for additional information while you are

making your plans to climb with SWS Mountain Guides.

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SAMPLE OF MT. WHITNEY SUMMER ASCENT CLIMB OUTLINE

MT. WHITNEY MOUNTAINEER’S ROUTE Summer Ascent of the Highest Peak in the Lower 48 States Eastern Sierra Nevada, Lone Pine, CA

General Description: This course offers a practical

introduction to alpine climbing-- offering a guided

climb of Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route

(class 2-3). This course is a great way to explore and

climb the highest mountain in the Sierra Nevada

and the lower 48 states. A great climb for the

beginning mountaineer or intermediate backpacker

who wants to climb this peak with fantastic views of the East Face of Mt. Whitney and many other peaks in the Sierra’s.

This route is a classic alpine route involving rock scrambling, cross-country hiking, and a short bit of roped climbing. It

can be accomplished by anyone in good to excellent physical condition and who has basic backpacking skills. We will

teach you the techniques you need to know to safety ascent Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route. Give us a call if you

have any questions.

Location: Mt. Whitney, Eastern Sierra Nevada.

Itinerary: After meeting at Elevations Climbing Shop in Lone Pine at 7:00 am on the first day we will hike into the

backcountry and establish a base camp at 11,000 ft. As we hike we will be instructing, holding informal lectures, and

preparing you for the next day’s climb. On the second day we will rise early for an alpine start, (4:00 am) and climb via

the mountaineer’s route on Mt. Whitney’s northeast side, returning to our base camp by late in the afternoon. Day three

we pack up and head down to the trailhead arriving at our vehicles by 3:00 PM.

PLEASE NOTE - This is a best-case scenario. This itinerary is subject to change at the guide’s discretion and is dependent

on mountain conditions, group experience/expectations, and other factors we cannot anticipate.

Food: Group breakfast(s), dinner(s), and hot beverages are included. Please bring your own favorite, high-calorie, high-

carbohydrate lunches and snacks. Examples: bagels, cheese, dried fruit, trail mix, Clif bars, chocolate, etc.

Level: Beginner to Intermediate. Participants should be in good to excellent physical condition. No previous

mountaineering experience is required, but some experience in backpacking, rock climbing, or mountaineering is helpful.

Dates 2014: June 5-7,June 13-15,June 14-16, June 22-24, June 22-24, June 27-29,

Additional Dates: Available with 3 or more - regular prices or by private arrangement.

Cost: $750.00 (Guide to client ratio is 1:3 Group size limited to 6)

Deposit: 50% non-refundable deposit per person to reserve your space / Balance Due 30 day prior to trip departure.

Includes: Professional instruction/guide, breakfast(s), dinner(s), helmets, harness, group-climbing equipment including

ropes and safety equipment, ice axes and crampons- if needed, group camping equipment including tents and stoves,

permits, and permit fees including Mt. Whitney permit reservations fees. For more details about equipment please see our

equipment list for this course. v14.4

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SAMPLE OF MT.WHITNEY SUMMER EQUIPMENT LIST

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SAMPLE OF MT SHASTA SUMMER SUMMIT ASCENT CLIMB OUTLINE

MT. SHASTA 2 DAY SUMMIT CLIMB 14,179 ft. via the Avalanche Gulch Route

General Description: Join SWS Mountain

Guides for a two day summit climb up Mt.

Shasta’s Avalanche Gulch route. This course is a

two day introduction to mountaineering with

limited instruction in: ice axe and crampon use,

ice axe self-arrest, route finding, mountain

sense, and mountain safety. This course is for

anyone who has a desire to learn the basic skills

necessary to ascend Mt. Shasta safely and wishes

to explore the world of alpine mountaineering

while climbing the spectacular Avalanche Gulch

route the most popular route on Mt. Shasta.

Clear Creek Option: Later in the climbing

season the Avalanche Gulch route usually melts

out and the rock fall danger skyrockets. When

this happens we will switch the Two Day Shasta climbs over to the Clear Creek route on the south east side of Mt. Shasta.

This route will usually only have a couple hundred feet of snow with the rest of the climb being on loose scree and talus. Thus

the route is technically not as difficult at the Avalanche Gulch route, but it is just as physically demanding if not more so than

the Avalanche Gulch route!! You have been warned!!

Location: Mt. Shasta Wilderness Area, Mt. Shasta, California.

Itinerary: After meeting at 8:00 am on the first day at our Mt. Shasta office, we will conduct a complete pack check and

divide up the group gear. We will then carpool to the trailhead at Bunny Flat (6,860 feet) on Mt. Shasta’s south side. From

here we will hike to our high camp (9700 feet) just below Helen Lake. The afternoon will be spent acclimatizing and learning

how to use the ice axe and crampons. We will then retire early in preparation for an alpine start on summit day (up by 1-2:00

am). After arriving at the summit we will head back to our camp to pack up our gear and return to Bunny Flat by 5:30 pm.

PLEASE NOTE - This is a best-case scenario. This itinerary is subject to change at the guide’s discretion and is dependent

upon mountain conditions, group experience/expectations, and other factors we cannot anticipate.

Food: Group breakfast(s), dinner(s), and hot beverages are included. Please bring your own favorite, high-calorie, high-

carbohydrate lunches and snacks. Examples: bagels, cheese, dried fruit, trail mix, Clif bars, chocolate, etc.

Prerequisites: No previous mountaineering experience required. The better shape you are in the more enjoyable the climb

will be for you!

Level: Beginner to Intermediate. Participants should be in good to excellent physical condition. Our backpacks will weigh

anywhere from 35 to 55 pounds. Recent hiking or backpacking experience is highly recommended. Please call us if you have

any questions about this. Elevation gain on this climb is 7,302 feet from the trailhead at Bunny Flat (6,860 feet) to the Mt.

Shasta Summit (14,179 feet). Our base camp will be between 9,500 – 10,000 feet. If you anticipate a problem with altitude

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sickness please call and talk to us. We have several techniques that can help you to avoid, or at the very least, minimize

adverse reactions to altitude.

Cost: $525.00* (Guide to client ratio is 1:4. Group size is limited to 8.)

Includes: Professional instruction/guide, breakfast(s), dinner(s), ice axes, helmets, harness, group-climbing equipment

including ropes and safety equipment, group camping equipment including tents and stoves, permits, and permit fees

including Mt. Shasta summit fees. Mountaineering Boots, Snowshoes (early season), and Crampons are NOT included, but

are available for rent either from SWS Mountain Guides (snowshoes and crampons) or locally (boots, crampons, and

snowshoes). For more details about equipment please see our equipment list for this course.

Dates 2014

May: 3-4 - OPEN

May: 10-11 - OPEN

May: 17-18 - OPEN

May: 20-21* - OPEN

May: 24-25 - OPEN

Memorial Day Weekend

May: 31- June 1 - OPEN

June: 3-4* - OPEN

June: 7-8 - OPEN

June 10-11* - OPEN

June: 14-15 - OPEN

June: 17-18* - OPEN

June: 21-22 - OPEN

June: 23-24 - OPEN

June: 28-29 - OPEN

July: 4-5* - OPEN

4th of July Weekend

July: 5-6 - OPEN

July: 9-10* - OPEN

July: 12-13 - OPEN

July: 19-20 - OPEN

July: 26-27 - OPEN

Clear Creek Route or Avalanche Gulch: Route Condition dependent

August: 2-3 - OPEN

August: 9-10 - OPEN

August: 12-13* - OPEN

August: 16-17 - OPEN

August: 23-24 - OPEN

August 30-31 - OPEN

Labor Day Weekend

September 6-7 - OPEN

* Note: Weekday departure

Additional Dates : Available with 3 or more - regular prices or by private arrangement.

V14.2

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SAMPLE OF MT. SHASTA SUMMER EQUIOPMENT LIST

sws mountain guides · shasta summer equiopment list ... and our system of trip planning will allow...

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