tartine bread
TRANSCRIPT
ForArcherandElisabeth
Textcopyright©2010byChadRobertson.Photographscopyright©2010byEricWolfingerandChadRobertson.Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedinanyformwithoutwrittenpermissionfromthepublisher.
ISBN978-1-4521-0028-9
TheLibraryofCongresshaspreviouslycatalogedthistitleunderISBN978-0-8118-7041-2
DesignedbyVANESSADINA.FoodandpropstylingbyERICWOLFINGERandCHADROBERTSON.TypesettingbyJANISREED.Photographonpage29byCatherineKarnow.Frontcoverimageandphotographsonpages19,34,35,78,115,136,138,150,178,210,216,222,224,236,239,and252byChadRobertson.Photographsonpages18and42bySuzanneYacovetti.IllustrationsbyDavidWilson.Page9:LesCanotiersdelaMeurthe,ÉmileFriant,1888.CourtesyofLeMuséedel’ÉcoledeNancy.
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TABLEOFCONTENTS
BreadinTime
CHAPTER1BasicCountryBread
CHAPTER2SemolinaandWhole-WheatBreads
CHAPTER3BaguettesandEnrichedBreads
CHAPTER4Days-OldBread
Acknowledgments
Index
TableofEquivalents
AbouttheAuthors
BreadinTimeMystrongestinspirationcamenotfromrealbreadbutfromimages—imagesofatimeandplacewhenbreadwasthefoundationofamealandatthecenterofdailylife.Thereisapaintingofboatersgatheredatariversidetable.Atthehead,alargecrustyloafheldclosetotheheartiscutintowedgestocommencethemeal.ThisscenewaspaintedalittlemorethanacenturyagoinFrance,whenaworker’sportionofbreadwastwopoundsperday,andbreadwasoneverytableatmealtime.Thiswaselementalbreadthatsustainedgenerations.Tofindthisbread,Iwouldhavetolearnmakeit.Thusbeganmysearchforacertainloafwithanoldsoul.
Iopenedmyfirstbakerynearlyfifteenyearsagoafterthreeyearsofformalapprenticeshipandwiththevisionofmyidealloaftakingshape.Eachloafwouldtellthehandsofthebakerwhomadeit,andeachwouldalsohaveitsownexpression—likeaclayvesselpulledfromthekilnafterfiring.Theloafwouldbebakeddark,andthesubstantial,blisteredcrustwouldholdsomegivewhilecontainingavoluptuous,wildlyopencrumbwiththesweetcharacterofnaturalfermentationandasubtlebalancedacidity.Thebreadwouldbeajoytoeatfreshandwouldkeepwellforaweek.
AlthoughIhadapprenticedwithsomeofthefinestartisanbakersintheUnitedStatesandFrance,nonehadtaughtmehowtomaketheloafIwasenvisioning.Instead,theygavemethetoolstogetthere.
Frommyfirstmentor,Ilearnedtoapproachbreadmakingasbothacraftandaphilosophyofingredientsandhowtheyinteract.WiththatunderstandingcamethepromisethatIcouldfindmywaytoanybreadIimagined.“Doughisdough,”helikedtosay,implyingthatallbreadsarecloselyrelated—eventheonesthatseemedquitedifferent.
Afteryearsoflearning,IrealizedIwouldnevergetthereworkingunderthetutelageofsomeoneelse.Iwastwenty-threewhenElisabeth,nowmywife,andIbuiltourfirstsmallbakeshopwiththehelpoffriendsnorthofSanFrancisco,alongthecoastofTomalesBay.BakeshopwasanaptnamefortheroomwhereIwouldspendthenextsixyearsworking.Wecutaholeinthewallandbuiltawood-firedovenoutsidefacingintotheshop.Theshopwasonestep
fromthehomewherewelived.Technically,Iwasahomebakerwithabigoven.IwouldhavetomakehundredsofloavesadayforyearsinasortofsolitarybakingtrancetoachievewhatIhadinmymind’seye.
Istartedwiththewood-firedovenandnomixer.Therigorofmixingthreehundredpoundsofdoughbyhandrequiredasofterdough,soIaddedmorewater.
Duringmyfirstapprenticeship,Ihadworkedwithwetdoughs,sothiswasfamiliarterritory.Theovenwasfiredalldayasthedoughwasmixed,shaped,andsettoriseoncloths.Theloaveswerereadytobakeafewhoursaftershaping,andIbakedthroughthenight.Butaftermonthswithlittlesleep,Ichangedmycourse.Openingthewindowsintheeveningcooledthedoughdownandslowedthefinalrisingsignificantly.Thebakecouldwaituntilthenextmorning.
Iheldclosetomyideal,butaftersuchalongrise,theresultingbreadwassometimesmoresourthanIwanted.Tocounterthis,Ibeganusingmywildyeaststarteratayounger,moremildstageuntilIachievedthecomplexflavorsIwasafterwiththerightbalanceofacidity.Now,Icouldgetadecentnight’srest,freedfromthe“lifeofbats.”TheonlyproblemwiththisnewschedulewasthatIwouldhavetobakelaterinthedayandsellbreadintheafternoon.Sothat’swhatIdid:gainingthepleasuresofwarmbreadfordinnerandtoastforbreakfast.Afteradecadeofworkingalone,Itookonmyfirstapprentices.Ihadspentalmosthalfmylifeobsessingoverbread;itwasnowsomethingIdid,notsomethingItalkedabout.Makingbreadhadbecomeamostlysilentmeditationforme,andIlikeditthatway.Itwouldtakeafortuitoustradeagreementtodrawmeout.
In2005,EricWolfingercametoworkatTartinewithnobakingexperience.Hewasontracktobecomingachefbeforehedecidedtotryhishandatbaking.EricgrewupsurfinginSouthernCaliforniaandnoticedthatIhadanidealsurfingschedule:startingmydayaroundnoonandfinishingintheearlyevening.Hesuggestedatrade.Heofferedtoteachmetosurf,andIwouldteachhimtomakebread.Eric’spersistenceworemedown,andIagreedtotrysurfing.
Bythetimemysoreribshadhealedfrommyfirstsurfingsession,Ihadanewobsession,andhewastheonetotalkto.Hefollowedmyeverysurfingquestionwithanotherquestionaboutbread.Duringthoselongdrivesupanddownthecoast,weoftenhadtwoconversationsgoingonatonce.Monthsandyearspassedaswelearnedtogether,surfinginthemorningandbakingintheafternoon.
Luckyforme,Ericstuckaroundlongenoughtolearntomakegreatbread,gainingthekeenunderstandingofmyapproachthatwouldmakeourcollaborationonthisbookpossible.
Overthecourseoftime,Iarticulatedwhathadbeenonlyinmyheadandredefinedformyselfthecraftofbreadmaking.Theideawastodistillthecontentofourdailydiscussionsintotechniquesthatwouldworkwellforthehomebaker—tomakeabaker’sguidebook.
Traditional,intuitivebreadmakingdoesnotlenditselfnaturallytoawrittenrecipe.Beforethestudyofmicrobiology,bakersunderstoodthesubtletiesoftheprocess.Thenatureoffermentationwassecondnaturetotheirown.Thatis,theyunderstoodfermentationinrelationtotherhythmsoftheirownlives.Itisnecessarilythesamewithmodernartisanbakers.Allpointsleadbacktothestarterandtheleavenasoriginoftheprocess,andthewaythattheyareusedtomanagefermentationdeterminestheoutcome.Then,asnow,themostimportantaspectofmakingbreadwasmanagingthestagesoffermentationbyknowingwhattolookfor.Thevisualelementwouldbeanintegralpartofthisbookproject.TherewasnoquestioninmymindthatErichadtodocumentourwork.Hewasuniquelyqualifiedbyhisexperience,hisdailybakingshift,andhispassionforphotography.TartineBreadwouldhavetobephotographedthroughouttheprocessofbuildingthebook.Thiswouldrequireanotheryear’scommitmentfromEric.
WhenIstarteddescribinghowtomakethebasicloaf,Iknewitwouldtakesomeworktotranslatemymethodintoaprocessformakingsomethingcomparableathome.Erichadbeenbakingonhisdaysoffathomeforyears,usingacast-ironcombocookerasabakingvesselwithexcellentresults.Hesuggestedwesetupaprivateblogforahandfulofbreadtesters,sendthemallcombocookers,andengageinavirtualdialogue—sharingphotosofhome-bakedbread,answeringquestions,andaddingtoourinstructionswheretheyneededmoreclarity.
Mostly,Iexpecteditwouldbeahelpfulprogresscheck,asweinitiallyintendedtoposteveryrecipefortestingaswecompletedit.Butwithinthefirstweek,wediscoveredtwothings:therewerenotenoughhoursinthedayforustomaintainaninteractiveblog,andmanyofourtestbakersachieved,intheirfirstattempt,breadathomethatlookedasifithadcomeoutofourownovensonagoodday.Wehadexpectedneitherofthesethings,butthelatterwasarevelation.Indeed,theexemplarybreadweshowinthefirstchapterisahome-bakedtesterloaf.
Westayedincontactwithafewofthebreadtesters,whocontinuedtobakeregularly.Weansweredquestionsasthetesterscameupwiththeirownschedules,modifyingtimesandtemperaturessothatmakingbreadfitintotheirlives.Somemadebreadsthatwereclosetotheoriginalmold,whileothersmadedifferent,equallydeliciousbreadstosuittheirneedsandtheirvision.
Thiswasexactlywhatwehadhopedfor,andIdecidedtoprofilesomeofourtestersinthisbook.Relatingourtesters’real-lifeexperiences,Idiscusshowtheyalteredourapproachtogetdistinctlydifferentbreads.
The“TartineBread”approachfollowsaloosesetofconceptsthatweintroduceinasingle“basicrecipe”andthenbuildonthroughoutthebook.Asyougainanunderstandingofhowbread“works,”youwillbeabletomakeadjustmentsintimingandtechniquetoachieveabroadrangeofresults.Thegoalofmakingbreadwithasatisfyingdepthofflavor,agoodcrust,andamoist,supplecrumbisaconstant.
WebeginbyshowingyouhowtomakealeavenandthenhowtomakeourTartineBasicCountryBreadathome.Sincebreadmakinghasalwaysbeenavisuallearningexperienceforme,Iwantedaheavilyphotographicdepictionoftheprocesstostart.JacquesPepin’sbooksLaTechniqueandLaMéthodewerestronginspirations.Learningacraftisasmuchaboutcopyingasitisabout
understanding,asmuchvisualasitisintellectual.Asanapprentice,Iwatchedbakersmakingbreadandthencleanedupafterthem.EventuallyIgotmyhandsinthedough.Hereyou’lldoboth.
Weexploredthenotionofstartingthebookwithayeastedbreadrecipetoencouragethosewhomightbeintimidatedbybeginningwithawildyeaststarter.Wereasonedthatiftherisewaslongandslow,wewouldgetsomethingrespectabletostartwith,andthendiveintomakinganaturalleavenforamorechallengingbutrewardingloaf.Wefoundthatthedifferenceinthetimeittakestomakeawell-fermentedyeastedbreadandanaturalleavenedonewasnegligible.Butthedifferenceinqualitywasconsiderable.Thestraightyeastedbreadlackedeverythingweloveabouttheoriginal.Itsimplydidnothavethesavororthestayingpower.
TartineBreadisdevotedtotheuseofnaturalleaven,oftencalledsourdough.Ipromoteusinga“younger”leavenwithverylittleacidity.It’sasweet-smelling,yeastierrelativeofthemoresourandvinegary-smellingsourdough.Whenmakingbreadwithnothingmorethanflour,water,andsalt,aspiringbakersshouldapplytheirattentiontolearninghowtocontroltheprocessoffermentation.Theconceptisnotwithoutprecedent.
Upuntilthe1930s,Frenchbakersusednaturalleaveninbread,croissants,andbrioche.Aftercommercialyeastbecameavailable,theskilledpracticeofcaringforandusingnaturalleavendeclined.Conveniencegainedtheupperhand,andflavorwassacrificed.Withthisshift,thekeystoneinthetraditionofbakingwaslargelylost.Tasteabriochebreadskillfullymadewithnaturalleavenandcompareittothestraight-yeastedversion.Thesubstantialgainsinsavor,keepingqualities,andversatileuseswiththenaturalleavenjustifythetimeittakestobuildandcareforone.Oncethenaturalleavenisthriving,youcanuseitanywaythatsuitsyourtasteandyourschedule.
Beginningwiththebasicrecipe,subsequentbreadsprogressfromtheoriginal,buildingonwhatyouhavelearnedinthepreviousrecipes.Allthebreadrecipesarebasedononekilogramofflour,soyouwillbeabletocompareandcontrastdifferencesinratiosandeffectsinpractice.Bymovingpartsaroundslightly,shiftingratios,andadjustinghandling,weshowyouhowtomovefromtheTartineloaftopizzaandthentobaguette,brioche,croissant,andEnglishmuffins.Thisiswhereyouseethegearsofthebasicrecipeinmotion.Whetheryouridealbreadisathin,crispflatbreadoraclassicbaguette,thebasicrecipewillremain“north.”Allvariationsaretracedoutfromthebasiccountryrecipe,andtheoriginsaretracedbacktoit.Thisisabakingguidebooktogetyouwhereyouwanttogo.
BOURDON
Tartinebreadbeganin1992,whenIvisitedabakeryintheBerkshireMountainsofwesternMassachusettsafewmonthsbeforegraduatingfromtheCulinaryInstituteofAmericainNewYork.Ontheway,IconfidedtoElisabethPrueitt,myclassmateatthetime,thenotionthatImightwanttobecomeabreadbaker.
LizandIarrivedlateonemorningwhilethebakersweredeepintotheirshift.AmoderninterpretationofSatieechoedthroughthevastbrickbarnasthefinalloaveswerepulledfromtheovenandpackedintoanoverflowingdeliverytruck.Thelastbakeronshiftwouldmakedeliveriestosurroundingtowns.
ThisplaceseemedabetterfitthanthefrenetickitchensIhadworkedinbefore.Thehonesthand-craftandgenerousambiencestruckachordwithmyWestTexasupbringingamonggenerationsofwesternbootandsaddlemakers.
Whilemyculinaryschoolclassmatessoughtpositionswithwell-knownchefsinManhattan,IsettledonanapprenticeshipwithRichardBourdon,aclassicallytrainedconcertmusicianturnedbaker.RichardhadquittheFrenchhorntomakebreadinthelate1970sandpackedhisfamilyforatour(mostlyonfoot)ofbakeriesintheFrenchAlps.WhenImethimin1992,hewasrenownedasoneofthefirstbakersintheUnitedStatestorevivetheuseofapreindustrialFrenchbread-makingtechniqueusingextremelywetdoughslowlyrisenwithawildyeastleaven.Richard’sbreadwasnotoriouslydifficulttoprepareandhadgainedacultfollowingamongthegrowingranksofartisanbakersontheEastCoast.
Theaffablebakeracceptedmyrequesttoapprenticeonthespot,andofferedLizandmeroomandboardinthefarmhousewherehelivedwithhiswifeandfivechildren.Lizbeganworkingasapastrychefinanearbyrestaurant,andIsoonfoundmyselfworkingtwelve-hourshiftsforweeks.WhatIleftintheevening,Iwouldreturntointhemorningbeforesunrise.Itwasalong,hotsummerworkingalonewithBourdon.Wemixed,shaped,andpulledthreethousandloavesadayfromtheoven,followedwithadeliveryroute.Ihadfoundwhatwouldbecomemylife’sprofession.
Richard’sgoalwastomake“goodfood.”Hewantedtoproducehealthfulbread,andforhimthatmeantmixingtheflourwithenoughwatertohydrateandfullycookthestarchtomakeitmoredigestible.“Trytocookacupofriceinhalfacupofwater,”hesaidtoillustratethepoint.Heinsistedonfermentinghis
doughwithawildyeastnaturalleavenoveralongtimebecausehebelievedtheprocessunlockedthenutritioninwholegrainsthatwereotherwiseindigestible.Theresultinghighhydrationincombinationwithalong,naturalfermentationcreatedadistinctivelydeliciousloafofbread.Richard’sbreadwasexceptionallymoistandtender,andhadadepthofflavorachievedonlyafteralong,slowriseusingnaturalleaven.Hisbreadwasindeedgoodfood,buthecouldtellIwasstillsearching.Aftertwoyears,heencouragedmetomoveonandkeeplearning.
PROVENCEANDSAVOIE
FollowingashortstopinNorthernCalifornia,LizandIsetofffortheFrenchAlpstofindthebakeraboutwhomRichardhadsooftenspoken.Iwasonthetrailofmymentor’smentor.FromstoriesRichardhadtold,myheadwasfilledwithvisionsofgiantwood-firedovensandadoughsowetithadtobeshapedinmidairbeforelandingontheworkbench.TheSorcerer’sApprenticecametomind.Inreality,thebroomwouldsoonbeinmyhands,andI’dbesweepingthebakeshopeveryhour.
ThoughwedidnotcampintheforestontheoutskirtsoftownasRichardhad,weimmersedourselvesinFrenchprovinciallife—workingfirstinProvencewithDanielColinandthenontotheBaugesAlpesrangeintheSavoiewithPatrickLePort.
AftermeetingusatthetrainstationwhenwearrivedinProvence,Danielfoundusaplacetostaywithafriendwhoownedanoldwinechâteau.Thechâteauhadfallenintopartialruinsurroundedbyhectaresofgnarledgrapevines.Hetoldusthattherewereafewpeoplelivingontheproperty,andthatitwasnowa“naturaliste”retreat.Thechâteauwascalledthe“mariefée,”anew-ageamalgamofWoodstock-eraAmericana,SaiBabamysticism,andProvençalhillbilly.
Werodeourbicyclesthroughancientvineyardsandpastshepherdsonourwaytothebakeryeachmorning.Lizmadepastry,workingalongsidethepâtissier,whileIworkedwiththeboulangers.DanieltookituponhimselftoteachmethehistoryofAmericanjazz.HisvinylcollectionofMiles,Monk,Mingus,Coltrane,andBillEvanswasexhaustive.Welivedonpainintégrale,jarsofpâté,andlocalroséwine,whichwascheaperthanwater.Itwasaspecialtime.
Forthefirstfewweeks,l’americainswepttheshopandmaderoundsofinstantcoffeewithhottapwater.Soon,though,myskillsattheshapingtableearnedmyacceptance.IrealizedhowwellpreparedIwasafterworkingthathardseasonwithRichard.TheFrenchmenweresurprisedthatIcouldproperlyhandletheirslackdough,whichwascommonperhapsinthehome-bakingtraditionbutdifficulttomakeonthelargerproductionscaleofawholesalebakery.Availabletocovershifts,Ibecameanunexpectedwindfallintheever-
presentlogisticalpuzzleofschedulingvacationtimeinaFrenchbakerywhileremainingopenforbusiness,andIfastfoundmyselfinthecompanyoffriends.WespenthalfayearatDaniel’sBoulangerieArtisanale.
AswewerereadyingtoleavefortheAlps,Danielofferedusaride.HewantedtodetourthroughBordeauxtovisithisagingfather,andwehadthetime.Thedayweleft,hemadeasmallbatchofbreadspeciallyforhisfather.Itwasawetterdoughthanusual,withalongbulkrise,whichhebakedhotanddark.Thecrumbhadhugepearlescentholes,andthecrustcrackedasitcooled.Thebreadseemedaliveevenasitcooledandsettled.Whilehepackedthebreadforthejourney,Danielcommentedthat“thisisthewayI’dalwaysmakebreadformyself—butmycustomerswouldnotbuyit.”Itwasradicalbread—astudyinextremes—andIwasmuchclosertofindingtheloafwithanoldsoul.
TheloavesthatDanielhadbakedforhisfatherheldstronginmymind.Ihadnotseenbreadlikethatanywherebefore.SpeedingwestacrossFranceinhisPeugeotturbowagonfilledwithbread,hetoldmeaboutalonebakerinasmallvillagenearthecoastwhomadethesamebreadhehadjustmadeforhisfather.
Thebakerywasaone-roomshopintheMèdocwithawood-firedovenandplankshelvingonthewallforbread.Abellhungoutsidethedoor,andintheafternoonitwasrungtosignalthathotbreadwasbeingpulledfromtheoven—justintimefordinner.ThisturnedthebakingscheduleIhadknownupsidedown.Freshbreadfordinnerwasperfectlyidealandwhyworkallnighttohavefreshbreadinthemorning,whentoastisatreatuntoitself?Nevergettinghisname,Ialwaysspokeofhimas“theawesomebaker.”Yearslater,recallinghimindesperationwouldhelpmefindalivablescheduleIhadforgotexisted.
OnthewaytotheSavoie,DanielalsotookmetomeetMonsieurVoisin,themanwhohaddesignedandbuiltDanielandPatrick’sstacked-deckwood-firedovens,aswellasrebuildingthecenturiesoldovenof“theawesomebaker.”Thoughhisnamemeans“neighbor,”voisinisthelastwordonemightusetodescribeamanwhohadnevertraveledoutsideFranceandpassionatelydespisedforeigners.Heenjoyedhisownhouse-curedfoiegraswithaglassofSauternesforbreakfastand,inexplicably,invitedustojoinhim.Weateenpleinairnexttoawoodenrowboatplantedthickwithfraisesdesbois,whilediscussingFrenchoven-buildinghistory.
DanieldroppedusoffatPatrickLePort’sbakery,BoulangerieSavoyarde,wherewewerereceivedlikefamilyreturningfromtravels.Alpinemuesliandpetitépeautre,locallygrownspeltbread,sustainedus,withtheoccasional
raclettebingeonoffnights.Thekindnessandgenerosityofourhostswerehumbling.
Welovedthework,thefood,andtheafternoonhikestovisitnearbyalpageswheresomeofthebakerstendedcowsandgoatsathighelevationformakingtraditionalregional,seasonalcheeses.Ourfellowbakershadacceptedus,andwebegantosettlein.Wetalkedaboutstaying,yetmyFrenchcopainsadvisedagainstit.TheyrecognizedmydedicationasayoungbakerandtoldmetoreturntotheStatesandbuildanoventomakemyownbread.MytimespentlearninginFrancewasessentialandinstructive,allowingmetoplacewhatBourdonhadtaughtmeintoahistoricalcontextoftradition.
InFranceatthetime,apprenticebakerswouldworktwentyyearsmorebeforehavingtheopportunitytoopentheirownplaces.Itwasagainstgenerationsoftraditionforayoungbakertostrikeoutonhisown.Frenchbakerswereconstrainedbytraditionsthatboundthemtomakethetypesofbreadpeopleexpectedofthem.Abigloaf,bakeddarkwithhugeholes,didnotamountto“goodbread”inthismodernage;thoughthattoowouldchangeoverthenextdecade.
POINTREYES
Backhome,wereasoned,IwouldbefreetomakewhateverIwanted.Themarketwoulddeterminemyfate.ItooktheiradvicetoheartandreluctantlyreturnedtoNorthernCaliforniain1994.Borrowingmoneytoliveon,wehadseverecultureshockthatmadeuswanttorunrightbacktoFrance.Thefeelingwasshort-lived,though,andwehadworktodo.
LizandIknewofanovenbuilderresidinginthehillsaboveTomalesBaynorthofSanFrancisco.AlanScottlivedinalargefarmhouseonaranchwithawood-firedovenoutback.Bythistime,hehadbeenbuildingovensforafewdecadesandwasrenownedforhissimple,elegantdesign:averyefficient,clean-burningmasonryoven.
WestMarinCounty,alongthecoastofBolinasandTomalesBay,isfilledwithhistoriccattleranchesandorganicandbiodynamicsmallfarmsandvineyards.ThispartofthecountryhadavibrantfoodculturewithenoughcharmsoftheFrenchcountrysidewesomissed.
IcontactedAlan,andheofferedusroomandboardifwewouldhelparoundthehouseandproperty.Eagertotryhisoven,Ibeganbakingbreadafewdaysaweekattheranch.Alanwashappytoseehisoveninregularuse.He
insistedongrindinghisownflourandoftenmixedabatchofhisexcellentDesembread,anatural-leavenedwholegrainbreadmadefromfreshlygroundwheatberries,tobakewhiletheovenwashot.Alan’sDesemonthelunchtabletoldusthathe’dbeenbusygrindinggrainandtendinghisleavens.
Alandidn’twasteheat,usingtheovenfordaysasitcooledtocookpotsofbeans,dryvegetablesandherbs,andtomakestocksoftoastedgrainmuesliandgranola.
Overabreakfastofwholegrainbutteredtoastandsteel-cutoats—hisstalwartmorningroutine—weaskedAlan’sadviceabouthowwemightgetasmallbakerystartedclosertotown.Straightaway,heofferedtobuildusanovenandloanusthemoneytogetgoing.Histrustandgenerositywereimmediate.
WemovedfromtheranchinMarshalltoahouseinPointReyesonmainstreetRoute1,acrossfromCowgirlCreamery,thenstillunderconstruction.WithAlandirecting,friendsandneighborshelpedusbuildawood-burningmasonryovennexttoourhome.Weweresoonbarteringfreshbreadforwildsalmon,abalone,oysters,ducks,eggs,freshfruit,andgardenvegetables.Lizmadepastry,usingtheovenearlybeforeitwasfiredhotorafterithadcooledsufficiently.Continuingmyfocusonbread,Idrewonthetraditionalbread-makingdisciplineIhadlearnedduringmyapprenticeshipintheBerkshiresandinFrance—whilestillsearchingfortheloafwithanoldsoul.
InFrance,Ihadfalleninlovewiththesweet,creamyflavorofbreadfermentedwithwildyeastleaventhatcontradictsthewidespreadperceptionof“sourdough.”Iwantedanythingbutsourbread.Iwantedadeepauburncrusttoshatterbetweentheteeth,givingwaytotender,pearlescentcrumb.Iwantedmybaker’ssignature,thescoremadewithabladeontop,toriseandfissure,andthecrusttosetwithdangerousedges.Rusticformsfromtheforgeoftheovenwouldbethefinalexpressionoftheprocess.Togainafollowingfortheselarge,crustyloaves,Iwouldmakesuretobringbreadthatwasstillwarmfromtheoventothemarkets.
IbeganbydoingthingsthewayIhadlearned,butmypresentcircumstancesweredifferentandrequiredadjustments.Ihadnomixer.Kneadinghundredsofpoundsofdoughdailybyhandmighthavebeenanimpossibletaskforalonebaker,butthewetdoughwascomparativelyeasytodevelopbyhand.I“kneaded”thedoughinbucketsbygentlyfoldingitatregularintervals.Followingthewisdomofnineteenth-centuryFrenchmatronsandthecenturies-oldbakingtraditionoftroughkneading,Ilettimeandfermentationdothework.
DuringthoseearlyyearsinPointReyes,thesmallbakerywasalaboratoryforthreeingredientsandaworldofpossibility:flour,water,andcoarsegraysaltfromtheGuérandeinsouthwestFrance.Imademostdiscoveriesbyexhaustivetrialanderror,overtimegatheringeachlessonintoasimpleapproachbasedonwhatIhadlearned.Theapproachwasnotrigidlyscientific,butresultsweredocumentedbyconciseshorthandnotesandphotosofthebreadondayswhensomethingnotablewasachievedincrustorcrumb.AfteryearsofbakinginPointReyes,ImadetheloafIwasafter.
Ourcountryloafwasdistinctinamarketalreadysaturatedbyartisanbakers,andpeoplesoontooknotice.Thelabhadbecomeanatelier.Bakinggrewfromthreetofivetosevendaysaweektomakeendsmeet.
WhileImadelocaldeliveriesonfootinPointReyes,Lizdroveour’53ChevywagonpackedwithpastriesandwarmbreadtotheBerkeleyfarmers’market,wherepeoplehadlinedupinthelotanhourbefore.
Aftersixyearsinthecountryside,LizandImovedoursmallbusinessforashorttimetoMillValley,andthenintoSanFrancisco.Wetookovertheleaseofanall-but-retiredcornercakebakeryandinearly2002openedourdoorsasTartine.
COUNTRYBREADINTHECITY
Since2002,Tartine,andourwholeblockofrestaurantsandshops,hasbecomeahubofMissionlife.We’vemaintainedourtraditionof“bakinginrealtime.”Ourbakerspullhotcroissantsandquichesfromtheovenstartingjustbeforeweopenandintotheearlyafternoon.Themorningproductionoccupiesthedeckovenuntil2P.M.,andthebreadisbakedintheafternoon.Thefirstloavesareoutjustbefore5P.M.andsoldfreshfordinner.ProductionhasremainedonthesamesmallscalesincethefirstbakeryinPointReyes.
Thenew,urbansettingnecessitatedthetradeofourwood-firedmasonryovenforamassive,gas-fireddeckoven.Firingagasovennevermatchesthesatisfyingritualofburningwoodbutwatchingthefuelgoupinsmokehadcometoweighheavilyonme.Realtimberistoopreciousaresourcetoburninovenswhenanalternatefuelsourceisavailable.NowadaysinFranceandtherestofwesternEurope,mostofthewood-firedovensusepressedsawdust“logs”orscrapwoodleftoverfromconstructionorwoodcraft.
Anyflavorimpartedbythewoodfireisimaginary.Theinsidewallsofawood-firedoventurnblackfromthesootwhenthefirebeginstoburn.Whenthetemperaturerisesabove600°F,thesootbeginstoburnoff.Thewallsareburnedclean,andthebakersweepsandmopsthehearthbeforeloadingbread.WhenIstartedbakingyearsago,manybakersinNorthernCaliforniausedeucalyptuswoodtofiretheirovens.It’scheapandburnsespeciallydirty—buttheovenstillcomesoutclean.Thankfully,thebreadgetsnoflavorfromthewoodburned.
SomewhoknewmybreadfromPointReyeswereskepticaloftheswitchfromawood-firedoventoagas-fireddeckoven.Theyworriedthatthebreadwouldlosesomethingspecial.Iwasnotconcerned.Thekeytomakinggoodbreadisnottheoven—anyoventhatcanstoreandradiateheat,andtrapsteam,willwork.Theeventualnatureofthecrustislargelydeterminedbeforetheloafiseverbaked.
Thebaker’sskillinmanagingfermentation,notthetypeofovenused,iswhatmakesgoodbread.ThisfactmakesTartineBreadpossible.Iwouldnotattemptabookwiththehomebakerinmindiftheresultscouldneverliveuptotheimages.Theycan.Andtheywill.
Asalways,it’sinthebakers’hands.
CHAPTER1
BasicCountryBread
THISISTHEMOSTBASICRECIPEFORTHEBREADI’vebeenmakingsincethebeginninginPointReyes.Theapproachandmethodformthefoundationaltechniqueforalltheotherbreadrecipespresentedhere.ThisisthebreadImisseatingwhenawayontravels.
Theprocessissimpleandisaccompaniedbyimagesillustratingthekeysteps.Thethought,borneoutbyourtestbakers,isthatanyonecanpickupthisbookandmakeagoodloafofbreadusingthischapteralone.
Thebasicrecipeisfollowedbyanin-depthexplanationoftheprimarypartsoftheprocess,focusingonthepracticalknowledgethatwillenableyoutoexpandonthebasicrecipetomakethevariationsandtotailoryourbakingtoyourspecificneeds.IrecommendreviewingboththerecipeforBasicCountryBreadandtheBasicLoafinDepthsectionbeforemakingbread.Keepinmindthatyou’llneedtimeandexperiencebakingyourselftoreallyunderstandhowthingswork.
You’llfindthetesterprofileshereaswell.TheexcellentbreadtheymadeisasgoodasanyI’veeaten—ever.Itrusttheirbakingwillinspireyouinthesamewaythattheyinspiredme.
FortheBasicCountryBreadandtheotherbreadsinthisbook,youwillneedthefollowingkitchentools:adigitalscaleformetricmeasures,asmallscoopforflour,athermometer,awidebowlformixing,arubberspatula,adoughspatula,andabenchknife.AtTartine,weuseawidemetalbowltomixtheingredientswiththeleastamountofmess.ForbakingtheBasicCountryBreadandotherloaves,youwillneedadutchovencombocooker.Anyotherspecialequipmentisnotedintherecipewhereitisrequired.
BASICCOUNTRYBREAD
Makingbreadwithnaturalleavencanbedividedintothreebasicstages.Firstyoumustdevelopavigorousstarter.Thenyoumanagethewildyeastsandbacteriainthestarterbymaintainingaconsistentroutine,buildingtomakealeaventoraiseyourdough.Finallyyou’llshapeandbakethedoughintoaloafofbread.TherecipeforBasicCountryBreadmakes2loaves.
MakingaStarterDevelopingastarterbeginswithmakingaculture.Acultureiscreatedwhenflourandwaterarecombined,andthemicroorganisms—wildyeastsandbacteriapresentintheflour,intheair,andonthebaker’shands—begintofermentspontaneously.Afterfermentationbegins,thebaker“feeds”thecultureregularlyto“train”itintoalivelyandpredictablestarter.
1)Mix5poundsofbreadflour—halfwhiteandhalfwholewheat.Youwillusethis50/50flourblendtofeedyourcultureanddevelopyourstarter.All-purposeflourwillworkaswell.Fillasmall,clearbowlhalfwaywithlukewarmwater.Addahandfulofthe50/50flourblendtothewaterandmixwithyourhandstoachievetheconsistencyofathickbatterwithnolumps.Useadoughspatulatocleantheclumpsoffyourhandsandtidytheinsideofthebowl.Coverthebowlwithakitchentowelandplaceinacool,shadedspotfor2to3days.
2)After2to3days,checktheculturetoseeifanybubbleshaveformedaroundthesidesandonthesurface.Ifthecultureseemsinactive,letitsitforanotherdayortwo.
Bythistime,adarkcrustmayhaveformedoverthetopofthemixture,whichistypical.Pullthecrustbackandnotethearomaandbubblescausedbyfermentation.Inthisinitialstage,whentheculturesmellsstronglikestinkycheeseandtastessharplyacidic,itisveryripe.Nowitistimetodothefirstfeeding.
3)Tofeedtheculture,discardabout80percentofit.Replacethediscardedportionwithequalamountsofwaterandthe50/50flourblend.Mixtocombinejustasyoudidinstep1.Youhavenowbeguntrainingyourcultureintoastarter.
Repeatthediscardingandfeedingprocessonceevery24hoursataboutthesametimeeachday,preferablyinthemorning.Don’tworrytoomuchaboutthequantitiesofwaterandflourinthesefeedings—youwantathickbatter.Theimportantthingisthatyoufeedthestarterandpayattentiontoitsbehaviorasitdevelops.
Asthebalanceofyeastandbacteriaisestablished,thevolumeofthestarterwillincreaseforseveralhoursafterfeedingandthenbegintocollapseasthecyclewindsdown.Notehowthearomaofthestarterchangesfromstinkyandsharplyacidictosweetandmilkyjustafterthefeeding,whenthestarterisatthefreshestoryoungeststageinthecycle.“Fresh”and“young”areexpressedandunderstoodhereintwoways:1.thesweetstageofripenesshavingbeenfedthenormal20percentinoculation(2to4hours)and2.and/ormanymorehours(4to8)afterhavingbeenfedusingaverysmallinoculation(5percent),yetstillatthesamesweetripestage.Whenthestarterfermentspredictably—risingandfallingafterfeedings—youarereadytopreparealeavenandmixyourfirstbreaddough.
Keepinmindthattrainingyourstarterisaforgivingprocess.Don’tworryifyouforgettofeeditoneday;justmakesuretofeeditthenext.Theonlysurewaytomessupastarteristoneglectitforalongperiodoftimeorsubjectittoextremetemperatures.Eventhen,acycleofregularfeedingswillusuallyrestorethevitalityofyourstarter.
MakingtheLeavenandMixingtheDoughWhenyourstarterisrisingandfallinginapredictablemanner,youarenowreadytomakebread.Whenpreparingtomixadough,breadbakersuseweightmeasurements.Measuringtheflour,water,andsaltbyweightallowsthebakerto
visualizebreadrecipesasparts,orratios,ofthewhole.Asyoulearntomakeavarietyofdifferentbreadrecipes,you’llseehowcloselyrelatedtheyare.Foreaseofcalculation,thebreadrecipesthroughoutthebookusemetricweights.
1)Thenightbeforeyouplantomixthedough,discardallbut1tablespoonofthematurestarter.Feedthestarterwith200gramsofwarm(78°F)waterand200gramsofthe50/50flourblend.Coverwithakitchentowelandletthestarterriseovernightatacoolroomtemperature(65°F).Thisisyourleaven.
Bythemorning,theleavenwillbeaeratedbywildyeastactivity,andthevolumewillhaveincreasedbyabout20percent.Themostreliableindicationthatyourleavenisreadyisifitfloatsinwater,aresultofthecarbondioxidegasproducedbywildyeastactivity.Totestthereadinessofyourleaven,dropaspoonfulofitintoabowlofmoderateroom-temperaturewater.Ifitsinks,itisnotreadytouseandneedsmoretimetofermentandripen.Youcanexpeditethefermentationbyputtingtheleaveninawarmplaceandcheckingagainafterahalfhour.
Yourleavenshouldsmellsweetinanoverripe-fruitsortofway.Icallthisayoungleaven,meaningithasnotfermentedtothepointthatitsmellsvinegary.Ifyourleavendoessmellvinegaryinthemorning,youhavetwooptions.Youcanmixthedoughusingthisleaven,butwiththeexpectationthatyourbreadwilltastemoresour.Oryoucandiscardhalfoftheleavenandadd100gramsofwarmwaterand100gramsofthe50/50flourblend.Doingthisdilutestheacidityoftheleavenandgivesitfreshresourcestofermentandripen.Letthenewmixturefermentuntilitpassesthefloattest,about2hours.
2)Gathertheingredientslistedonthetableformixingthedough.Forconvenience,putthe80°Fwaterinapitcher.
Bakersthinkintermsofratiosandexpresstheseratiosaspercentages.Theflour,nomatterwhatquantityisused,istheconstant100percentagainstwhicheveryotheringredientismeasuredandconsidered.Startingwiththisbasicrecipeandcontinuingfortherestofthebook,therecipesarebasedon1,000grams(1kilogram)offlour.Thisisdesignedtohelpyouthinklikeabaker.Whenyouunderstandtheprinciplesofthebasicingredientsandhowtheyactincombination,youcanadjustrecipestogainyourowndesiredresults.
Theamountofwaterrelativetotheflouriscalledthehydrationpercentage.Doughmadewith600gramsofwaterand1,000gramsofflouris60percenthydration.Inotherwords,theamountofwateris60percentoftheweightoftheflour.Thebasiccountrydoughherewillbe75percenthydration.Thetablebelowistheformulaforthebasiccountrydoughinthischapter.Herewestartwith75percenthydration–makingthedougheasytoworkwithfromthestart.Asyougetcomfortablewithsofterdoughs,youcanincreasethepercentageofhydrationgraduallytosuityourtaste.
INGREDIENT QUANTITY BAKER’SPERCENTAGE
Water(80°F) 700gramsplus50grams 75
Leaven 200grams 20
TotalFlour 1,000grams(1kilogram) 100
WhiteFlour 900grams 90
WholeWheatFlour 100grams 10
Salt 20grams 2
3)Weigh700gramsofthe80°Fwaterandpouritintoalargemixingbowl.Addthe200gramsleavenandstirittodisperse.(Besuretosaveyourleftoverleaven—thisisnowyourstarter.Ifyouplantobakebreadeveryfewdays,continuediscardingaportionofthestarterandfeedingitdaily,asinstructedinstep3onpage46.Ifyouwanttobakeonlyintermittently,seepage71aboutmaintainingyourstarter.)
Add1,000gramsflour—900gramswhiteand100gramswholewheat—tothewaterandmixthoroughlybyhanduntilyoudonotseeanybitsofdryflour.Cleanyourhandsandthesidesofthebowlwithadoughspatula.Letthedoughrestfor25to40minutes.Donotskiptherestingperiod.Workingwiththenatureofthedough,therestingperiodallowstheproteinandstarchintheflourtoabsorbthewater,swell,andthenrelaxintoacohesivemass.
4)Aftertherestingperiod,addthe20gramssaltandthe50gramswarmwatertothedough.Incorporatethesaltbysqueezingthedoughbetweenyourfingers.Thedoughwillfirstbreakapartandthenwillre-formasyouturnitinthebowl.Don’tworryifthesaltdoesnotseemtodissolverightaway.Foldthedoughontopofitselfasshowninthephotosandtransferittoasmall,clearcontainer.AtTartine,weuseacontainermadeofamaterialwithinsulatingproperties,tomaintainthewarmtemperatureofthedoughduringthiscrucialdevelopmentstage.Ifyouhavenevermadebread,it’sinstructivetobeabletoseetheaerationofthedoughasitdevelops.Welikethickplasticbecauseitissafeandeasytoclean.Aheavyglassbowlwouldalsoworkwell.
Thedoughhasnowbegunitsfirstrise,calledthebulkfermentationorbulkrise.Thiscrucialstepshouldnotberushed,asitsprimarypurposeistodevelopflavorandstrengthinthedough.Thebulkriseishighlytemperaturesensitive,andasarule,warmerdoughfermentsfaster.AtTartine,wetrytomaintainthedoughataconstanttemperaturebetween78°and82°Ftoaccomplishthefullbulkfermentationin3to4hours.
Oneimportantconsiderationisthatasmallmassoffermentingdoughwillquicklyequalizewiththeambientroomtemperature.Thespeedoffermentationthereforegreatlydependsontheambienttemperatureofyourkitchen.However,therearemanywaystocreateamicroclimateforyourdough.Ifyourkitcheniscool—below60°F—youcanmixthedoughwithwarmerwater,90°Fforexample,andkeeptheplasticcontainercoveredwithatopmadeofalow-conductivematerialsuchaswoodorthick,hardplastic.Youcanalsouseyourovenasamakeshiftproofboxbyputtingasmallpotofboilingwaterintheoven
nearthedough.Thiswillraisetheambienttemperatureoftheoven.Alternatively,ifyouuseabakingstoneinyouroven,youcanheattheovenbrieflywiththestoneinside(onaseparateshelffromwhereyourdoughwillbe).Whenyouturntheovenoff,theheatedstonewillkeeptheovenwarm.
Ifyouwanttoleaveforafewhours,alonger,coolerbulkfermentationmightbedesirable.Page74explainshowthebread-makingprocesscanbetailoredtofityourenvironmentandschedule.
5)Usingmytechnique,you’llnoticethatthedoughisneverkneadedonaworksurface.Thedoughdevelopmentthatbakersusuallyachievebykneadingisaccomplishedherebygivingthedoughaseriesof“turns”inthebowlduringthebulkfermentation.Thisprocessiscleanerthankneadingoutsidethebowlandaccomplishesthesamedegreeofdevelopmentwithmuchlesswork.
Todoaturn,diponehandinwatertopreventthedoughfromstickingtoyouandthengrabtheundersideofthedough,stretchitup,andfolditbackovertherestofthedough.Repeatthisactiontwoorthreetimessothatallthedoughgetsevenlydeveloped.Thisisconsideredoneturn.
Duringthefirst2hoursofthebulkfermentation,givethedoughoneturneveryhalfhour.Duringthethirdhour,noticehowthedoughstartstogetbillowy,soft,andaeratedwithgas.Atthislaterstage,youshouldturnthedoughmoregentlytoavoidpressinggasoutofthedough.
Properdevelopmentduringthebulkfermentationenablesthewetdoughtoholditsshapeasaloaf,andthebakermustwatchforsignsofdevelopmentanddeterminewhenthedoughisready.Duringthefirsthourofthebulkfermentation,thedoughwillfeeldenseandheavy.Watchhowthesurfacebecomessmoothsoonafteryouturnthedough.Bytheendofthethirdhour,thedoughwillfeelaeratedandsofter.Awell-developeddoughismorecohesiveandreleasesfromthesidesofthebowlwhenyoudotheturns.Theridgesleftbytheturnwillholdtheirshapeforafewminutes.Youwillseea20to30percentincreaseinvolume.Moreairbubbleswillformalongthesidesofthecontainer.Theseareallsignsthatthedoughisreadytobedividedandshapedintoloaves.
Ifthedoughseemstobedevelopingslowly,extendthebulkfermentationtime.Watchyourdoughandbeflexible.
6)Usethedoughspatulatopullallthedoughoutofthecontainerontoanunflouredworksurface.Lightlyflourthesurfaceofthedoughanduseabenchknifetocutthedoughintotwoequalpieces(remember,thisrecipemakesenoughbreadfortwoloaves).Asyoucutthefirstpiece,usethebenchknifetoflipitsothattheflouredsiderestsontheworksurface.Dothesamewiththesecondpieceofdough.
Atthispointyouwanttoincorporateaslittleflouraspossibleintothedough.Foldthecutsideofeachpieceofdoughontoitselfsothattheflouronthesurfaceofthedoughissealedontheoutsideoftheloaf.Theoutersurfaceofthedoughwillbecomethecrust,soyoumayusemoreflouronyourhandstoavoidsticking.
Usingthebenchknifeandonehand,workeachpieceofdoughintoaroundshape.Tensionbuildswhenthedoughslightlyanchorstotheworksurfacewhileyourotateit.Bytheendoftheshaping,thedoughshouldhaveataut,smoothoutersurface.Youwanttodevelopastrongtensioninasfewmovementsaspossible—usedecisiveyetgentleforcewhilehandlingthedough.Ifthesurfacerips,youhavegonetoofarindevelopingtension.Don’tworryifitdoesrip—thisisjustanindicationyoushouldstopshapingandletthedoughrelax.
7)Afterthisinitialshaping,letbothroundsofdoughrestontheworksurfacefor20to30minutes.Thisstageiscalledthebenchrest.Makesurethedoughisnotexposedtodrafts,whichwillcoolittoomuch.Adraftalsocancauseadryskintoformonthetopofthedough,compromisingthefinalshaping.Youmayneedtolightlyflourthedoughandcoveritwithakitchentowel.
Duringthebenchrest,eachroundwillrelaxandspreadintoathickpancakeshape.Theedgearoundthecircumferenceshouldappearfatandrounded,notflatandtaperedor“dripping”offtheedge.Iftheedgeisflatandthedoughisspreadingtoomuch,theseareindicationsthatthedoughdidnotdevelopenoughtensionduringthebulkfermentation.Tocorrectthis,simplyshapeeachroundasecondtime—whichislikegivingthedoughanextraturninthecontainer.
8)Toformthefinalloafshapes,lightlyflourthetopsurfaceofthedoughrounds.Slipthebenchknifeundereachroundtoliftitofftheworksurface,takingcaretomaintaintheroundshape.Fliptheroundsothattheflouredsideisnowrestingontheworksurface.Whatwastheundersideisnowfacingup.
Thefinalshapinginvolvesperformingaseriesoffolds—takingcareasalwaysnottodeflatethedough.Thesuccessivefoldingbuildstensioninsideeachloafsothatitholdsitsformandrisessubstantiallywhenbaked.Bakerscall
thisdramaticrise“ovenspring.”First,workingwithoneroundatatime,foldthethirdofthedoughclosest
toyouupandoverthemiddlethirdoftheround.Stretchoutthedoughhorizontallytoyourrightandfoldthisrightthirdoverthecenter.Stretchthedoughtoyourleftandfoldthisthirdoverthepreviousfold.Youarenowstartingtogetaneatpackage.
Stretchoutthethirdofthedoughfarthestfromyouandfoldthisflaptowardyou,overthepreviousfolds,andanchoritinplacewithyourfingers.Thengrabthedoughnearesttoyouandwrapitupandover,whilerollingthewholepackageawayfromyousothatthesmoothundersideoftheloafisnowthetopandalltheseamsareonthebottom.
Cupyourhandsaroundthedoughandpullittowardyou,roundingitagainsttheworksurfacetotightenthetensionandstretchtheoutersurfacetoclosetheseam.Lettheshapedloafrestforaminute.Repeatthefoldingwiththeremaininground.
9)Inasmallbowl,makea50/50mixtureofriceflourandwheatflour.Linetwobasketsormediumbowlswithcleankitchentowelsandlightlyflourthetowelswiththeflourmixture.Thepatinaofflourpreventsthedoughfromstickingduringthefinalrise.Usingthebenchknife,lifteachshapedloafofftheworksurfaceandtransferittoabasketorbowlsothatthesmoothsideisdownandtheseamiscenteredandfacingup.Theloaveswillnowriseinpreparationforbaking.
Atthispointyouhavetwooptions.Thedoughcanriseatwarmroomtemperature(75–80°F)forabout3to4hoursbeforebaking.Thisiscalledthefinalrise,andat2hours,itwillyieldmild-flavoredloaves.
Ifyoudon’twanttobakerightaway,youcandelayor“retard”theprocessbyplacingthedough,inthebasketsorbowls,intherefrigeratorforupto12hours.Thecoolenvironmentslows,butdoesnotstop,thefermentation.After8to12hours,thedoughwilldevelopmorecomplexandmildlyacidicflavors.
BakingtheLoaves
1)About20minutesbeforeyouarereadytobake,placeadutchovencombocooker(bothpotandlid)intheovenandpreheattheovento500°F.Iftheshapeddoughisintherefrigerator,takeoneoftheloavesoutnow.Leavetheotherloafintherefrigeratoruntilyouaredonebakingthefirstoneandhavewipedcleanandreheatedthecombocookerandoven.
2)Whiletheovenispreheating,gatheryourtools:heavyovenmitts,riceflour,andadouble-edgerazorbladetoscorethetopofeachloafbeforeitbakes.Razorbladescanbetrickytouse,soprepareawoodensplinttoholdit.Splitawoodencoffeestirrerhalfwaydownitslength,usingtheedgeofatable.Theninsertthebladeontothesplint.
Bakerssaturatetheirovenswithsteambeforeloadingthebread.Themoistheatduringthefirst20minutesofbakingisessentialtoallowfortheexpansionoftheloaveswithoutformingacrust.AllthecharacteristicsthatIstriveforinagoodloaf—burnishedcracklingcrust,richauburncolor,openscores,andfullvolume—areenabledbythisinitialmoistheatenvironment.
Homebakersarefacedwiththechallengeofsaturatingwithsteamanovendesignedtoventilatemoisture.Ihavetriedmanymethodsforsteaminginaconventionalhomeoven,fromwettowelstoboilingpotsofwater,butnomatterhowmuchsteamwascreated,itwasimpossibletotrapenoughmoistureneededtoachieveresultsathomesimilartothosefromaprofessionalbread-bakingoven.
Thesealedenvironmentofadutchovensolvesthisproblem.Itwasawelcomediscoverythat,aswiththewoodfiredovensIhadusedforyears,adutchoventrapsenoughmoisturefromtheloafduringthefirstfewmomentsofbakingtofillwithsteam.Usingthedutchovenathomeallowsyoutobakegainingthetwomaincharacteristicsofaprofessionalbrickoven:asealedmoistchamberandstrongradiantheat.Theresultsusingadutchovenareindistinguishablefromthoseusingaprofessionalbaker’soven.
Thephotoshereshowmyfavoritedutchoven,acast-ironcombocooker.Onepartisashallowfryingpan,andtheotherisadeeppan;eachcanactasalidfortheother.Iliketobakebreadontheshallowpancoveredwiththedeeppan.Thelowwallsmakeiteasytoscoretheloafpriortobaking,andthedeeppanusedasacovergivestheloafroomtorise.Anydutchovenwillworkfine—justmakesureyoucancoverthepanwithasecurelidtoseal.
3)Dustthesurfaceofoneoftheloavesinthebasketorbowlwithriceflour.Whentheovenreaches500°F,putonthekitchenmittsandcarefullypulltheheatedshallowpanoutoftheovenandplaceitontopofthestove.Leavetheotherpan,orlid,intheoven.Pleaseexerciseextremecautionwhenhandlingthecooker.Thepansare500°Fandwillcausesevereburnsifyourhandsarenotprotected.Carefullyinvertingthebasketorbowl,turnthedoughintothehotpan.Ifthedoughstickstothetowel,usemorericeflourmixturethenexttime.
4)Theloavesarecutorscoredtohelpthemfullyexpandintheoven.Anunscoredloafwillnotrisetoitspotentialandwilloftenburstopenalongthesides.Theangle,quantity,andpatternofthescoresallaffecthowtheloafexpandsintheovenanddeterminethefinalappearanceoftheloaf.Experiencedbakersusetechniquesthatgivethemtheeffecttheywant,andtypesofscorescanbecomesignatures.Scoringisalsousedtodistinguishdifferenttypesofbreadsandtodeterminetheaestheticofthefinalloaf.
Makeyourscoringpatternontopoftheloafwiththecorneredgeoftherazorblade.Foraroundloaf,Isuggestasimplesquarewithfourcuts.Ifyouwanttheloaftohavepronounced“ears,”makeshallowcutsataverylowangle(almosthorizontal)tothedough.
Ifyourloafisinthedeeppanofthecombocookerorinaconventionaldutchoven,takecarenottoburnyourforearmsontheedgeofthehotpanwhile
scoringtheloaves.
5)Returntheshallowpanholdingtheloaftotheovenandcoverwiththedeeppan.Youcaninvertthisifthedeeppanseemstooheavy.Ifyoudoso,takecarenottoburnyourforearmsbytouchingtheedgesofthehotpanwhilescoringtheloaves.Immediatelyreducetheoventemperatureto450°F.Baketheloaffor20minutes.
6)After20minutes,wearingtheovenmitts,opentheovenandcarefullyremovethetoppan.Acloudofsteamwillbereleased.Noticethatthecolorofthecrustispaleandshiny.Thisisanindicationofawell-steamedloaf.Continuetobakethebreaduntilthecrustisthecolorofdeeplycaramelized,20to25minutes.Ifyouwantacracklingcrustthatwillstaycrisp,itisimportanttobakeyourloafoutstrong—untilitreachesaburnished,goldenbrowncolor.
7)Wearingovenmitts,removethepanfromtheovenandtransfertheloaftoaracktocool.Ifyoudon’thavearack,leantheloafonitssidesothataircancirculatearoundthebottom.Theloafwillfeellightinthehand,whichtellsyouthattherightamountofwaterhasbeencookedout.Whentappedonthebottom,theloafwillsoundhollow.
Tobakethesecondloaf,raisetheoventemperatureto500°F.Wearingovenmitts,wipeoutthecookerwithadrykitchentowelandreheatboththeshallowpanandthedeeppanfor10minutes.Followsteps3through7for
bakingthesecondloaf.Aseachbakedloafcools,thecrustcontractsslightly.Listenforafaintcracklingsound—thesongofbread.
THEBASICLOAFINDEPTH
TheEssentialIngredientsThemostelementalbreadismadefromflour,water,andsalt.ThisistheloafoftheBasicCountryBreadrecipe.Ofthesethreeingredients,flouristhemostimportantindeterminingthecharacterofthefinalloaf.Theflavorofthebreadcomesfromtheflourandtheeffectthatfermentationandthenbakinghaveonit.Whole-wheatandryefloursfermentmoreactivelythanwhitesifted-wheatflours.
Thefreshnessoftheflourhasasignificantimpactontheflavorofthefinalloaf.Forthoseofuswhodon’tmillourownflour,“fresh”flourmeansthatitwasmilledaweekortwobeforebakingwithit.Irecommendusingsustainablygrown,freshlymilledflourfromaslocallydistributedasourceasyouareableto
find.Excellentbreadcanbemadebymillingyourownflourandusingittomakebreadassoonasitcools,butnotethatfermentationwillbenoticeablymoreactivewhenfreshlymilled.
Mostwheatflourslabeled“all-purpose”willworkformakingbread.AtTartine,weperformedaseriesofbakingtestswiththreesampleflours.Onewasanationwidebrandofbleachedall-purposeflourboughtfromthecornermart;thebagwashiddenontheshelfandlookedasifithadbeensittingthereformonths.Thesecondwasanorganic“breadflour”withagoodreputation,purchasedfromanaturalfoodsstore.ThethirdwasourownblendoffloursmilledbythemillerI’veworkedwithforfifteenyears.
Tooursurprise,itwasalmostimpossibletotelltheresultingloavesapartbytheoutwardappearance.Weperformedablindtastetestandimmediatelychosethebreadmadefromourownflouroutofthegroup.Theflavorwasabsolutelydistinct.
Theloafmadefromcorner-martflourhadsomeunpleasantflavorsthatwerenotrelatedtofermentationandwerepossiblyaby-productoftheflourprocessingorofsomearomathattheflourhadabsorbedwhilesittingontheshelf.Theloafmadewithorganicflourwasgood,butthecrumbwastougherthanIlike.Throughtrialanderror,IhadlongagosettledonablendofwheatflourstoachievethetendercrumbIwant.
Sincethebeginningofmybakingdays,millersalwayswanttoshowmelabstatisticsregardingtheirflours.Althoughknowingthisinformationcanhelpquantifyyourpreferences,thereisnosubstituteformakingbreadwiththeflourandtastingtheresultstolearnifitsuitsyourtasteandyourtechnique.Numbersdon’talwaysadduptotheloafyouexpect—baking“bythenumbers”isbestlefttoindustrialoperations.
Waterthatisgoodtodrinkisfinetouseinbread.Temperatureisthemostimportantfactorregardingwater,asit’sthemostdirectwaytosetthebasetemperatureofyourdough.
AtTartine,weuseseasalt.Anysaltisfinetouseifit’sgoodtoeat.Ifusingcoarseseasalt,suchasgrosseldeGuérande,additwhenmixingthedoughinstep3onpage52,asitwilltakesometimetodissolve.Finesaltshouldbeaddedafterthedoughhasrested,asinstep4ofthesamemethod.
TheStarter
Abaker’strueskillliesinthewayheorshemanagesfermentation.Thisisthesoulofbreadmaking.
Starterisamixtureofflourandwatersettoferment.Thisfermentationhappensnaturally.Afterregular,successivefeedings,bacteriathatproducelacticandaceticacidalongwithwildyeastsestablishthemselvesasfermentingagentsinasymbioticrelationship.Sourdoughstarterculturesaroundtheworldarecloselyrelated,manyofthemhavingthesamedominantstrainsofyeastandbacteria.
Tobegin,inmyspecificapproach,therearetwoimportantthingstoconsiderregardingstarterinrelationtoleaven:
1.Amaturestartermustbeusedtomixtheleaven.Thestarterwillbestronglyripesmellingandmoderatelyacidic.
2.Theleavenmustbeusedtomixthedoughwhenitisyoungandsweetsmelling—longbeforeitstartstosmellanythinglikethestarter.
WhenItraveledbacktoFrancetofindDanielColinandPatrickLePortin2008,Ihadnotseenthemforfifteenyears.Thetalkalmostimmediatelyturnedtobreadandtheintricaciesoftheleavenswewereeachusing.IhadbroughtphotosofthebreadIwasmaking,andDanielandPatrickwantedtoknowthefeedingschedulesandpercentagesIwasworkingwithatTartine.
WhenIdescribedtheyoung,sweet-smellingliquidnaturalleaven,Patricksmiledand,reachingintoacoolchamber,pulledoutasmallwhitebuckettoshowme.Hesaidhehadbeenexperimentingforsometime,butwasnotyetabletousethistypeofstartertoleaventhebreadtohisliking.Incredibly,itwasthesamestarterthatIhadbeenusingformanyyears,startinginPointReyes,andthesameoneIusenowinSanFrancisco.Thetwostartersmusthavebeensupportingthesamemicroflora,asthearomaandflavorwereidentical.Indeed,afterdiscussingourmaintenance,wediscoveredwewereonthesamefeedingschedule.
Wildyeastsareonthegrain,onthebaker’shandsand,toalesserextent,intheair.Thebacteria,whichneedtobenourished,arelivingmicroorganismsthateatsimplesugarsandexcretelacticandaceticacidsaswaste.Wildyeastseatdifferentsugarsandproducecarbondioxideduringfermentation.Theratiooflacticacidtoaceticacidproducedisaffectedbythetemperatureoftheenvironmentinwhichthestarterismaintained,thepercentageoftheseedamount(whatyoustartwith),andthefrequencyofthefeedings.Refreshinga
starteronaregularschedulewiththesameamountandblendofflourwhilestoringthestarterinatemperature-stableenvironment(ideally65°to75°F)willtrainitintoapredictableandlivelynaturalleaven.
Startersthatarestoredathigherambienttemperatures(notrefrigerated)andaremoreliquidfavorlacticacidproductionoveraceticacidproduction.Theoverallacidload,orconcentrationofacid,inthefinalloafisresponsibleforthesourflavor.Acidloadbeginswhenthefreshleavenisseededwithanalreadyacidifiedportionofstarter.AtTartine,wepromotetheflavorofthemildlacticacidoverthevinegaryaceticacidbycontrollingtheproductionandimportationoftheseacidsduringthefeedingandfermentationstages.Wealwaysfeedatmoderateroomtemperaturesusingasmallseedamount(lessacidtransfer),andwefeedoften—afewtimesperdaydependingontheseason.
Stronglyacidicbreadoccurswhenahighpercentageofacidicleavenisusedinthedoughand/ortherisingtimesareoverlylong,eitherduringthebulkfermentationorduringthefinalrise.
Storingthestarterunderrefrigerationregularlyorforweeksatatimewillpromotebacteriaandyeastthatthriveatlowertemperatures;favoringtheproductionofaceticacid.Torestorealess-sourflavorbalance,afterthestarterisremovedfromtherefrigerator,muchofitshouldbediscarded.Theremainder,about20percent,isusedtoseedthenextfeedingtomakeafreshstarter.Discardabout80percentoftherefrigeratedstarterandaddequalamountsofwaterandthe50/50flourblend,followingstep3onpage46.
Theroleofthestarteristodevelopstrengthandacidity.Inthesubsequentleavenbuilding,thisstrength,butnottheacidity,istransferredtothelargermassofdough.Theripe,acidicstarterconditionsthegluteninabeneficialwaybyaddingstrength,buttheamountissmallenoughthatitdoesnotaddanintenseacidflavortothedough.
TheLeavenFloral,fresh,creamy,silky,sweet,milky—thesearethequalitiesthatyouwanttodevelopintheleavenandthatwillcarryintoyourdough.
Theleavenismadewiththestarter.Thecharacteroftheleavenistransferredtothedoughandultimatelytothefinalbread.Theseedingofalargemassofdoughbytheleaveneventuallytransformstheentiredoughintoalarger
versionofleaven.Iflefttofermentbeyonditsprimeleaveningstage,thedoughwillbecomethestarteragain,completingthecycle.
Thearomaoftheleaven,aswellasthedough,istheprimaryindicatorthatguidesyouthroughthestagesoffermentationsothatyouknowwhatishappening,regardlessoftemperatureandtimevariables.Timeandtemperaturearegoodplacestostart,butlearningtoreadthe“nose”ofyourleavenanddoughatdifferentstageswillenableyoutorecallandrepeatsuccessfulbakesandmanagetheprocesswithskill.
Iftheleavenisoverlyripeandvinegarywhenyoumixthedough,theacidwilloverpowertheotherdesirableflavors.Youcanstillmakebreadwiththedough,butqualitywillbecompromised.Uselessleaventocorrect.
Halfofanoverlyripeleavencanalwaysbediscardedandfedwithenoughofthe50/50flourblendandwatertoreplenishit.Theleavenwillbereadytousewhenitreachesthesweet-smellingstageandpassesthefloattestagain(seestep1onpage47)—inabout2hourswhenheldatamoderateroomtemperatureof76°to78°F.Leavensmatureatdifferentratesdependingontheambienttemperatureatwhichtheyaremaintained.Ideally,youwanttousetheleavenwithinanhourortwoofwhenit’sready.Althoughthe“young”leaventechniqueallowsforalargewindowoftimehere.
Ifyouarenotabletocontroltheambienttemperatureincolderclimates,usewarmerwatertofeedtheleavenwithahigherseedingpercentageofstarterandgiveitonelessfeedingperday.Inwarmerclimates,useasmallerseedpercentageofstarterandincreasethedailyfeedingsbyone.Inextremeheat,refrigeratetheleaventomaintainamoderatetemperatureorusechilledwater.
Withexperience,youwilldevelopkeenintuitionintherhythmsofthebakingcycle.
TheRestPeriodThedoughrestsinthebowljustaftertheinitialmixing.Thisperiod,namedtheautolyse(AUTO-leese)byesteemedFrenchbreadexpertProfessorRaymondCalvel,isnowincommonuse.
Whilethedoughislefttorest,glutensswellandformchainsthatbecomethegas-trappingstructureofthedough.Autolyseimprovestheeffectivenessofthetimespentmixing(orturningbyhand)whileshorteningthetimeneededtoactivelydevelopthedough.Calvelconfirmedthenotionofimprovedmixingby
lettingthedoughaccomplishmuchoftheworkpassively.Ifyouareshortontime,evena15-minuterestisbetterthannoneandincreasestheefficiencyoftheturnsyouareabouttodo.
Calvelquantifiedtheautolyseandexploredotherbeneficialactionsthatoccurduringthisrestperiod,suchastheconditioningofprotease,anenzymeintheflourthatisactivatedwithhydrationandworksontheglutentoincreaseextensibility.Extensibilityistheabilityofthedoughtostretcheasilywhilenotpullingback,orbucking.It’sanimportantqualitythatisessentialtoachievegoodvolumeinyourbread.
TheBulkFermentationThefirstrisingofthedoughiscalledthebulkfermentationorthebulkrise.Thisiswhenthestrength,flavor,andstructureofthedoughareset.TheFrenchcallthisphaselepointage,referencingtheimportanceofjudging“thepoint”intheprocesswhenthedevelopmentisoptimal.
Flourismadeupofstarchandprotein.Whenitishydratedwithwater,thestarchandproteinsabsorbthewaterandswell.Theproteinsformconnectedchainsthatconstitutethestructureofthedough,whichisdevelopedbystretchingandfoldingthedoughasyougiveitturnsduringthebulkfermentation.Theresultingtinyairpocketsformthebasecellstructureofthecrumb.Theyfillwithgasduringthebulkriseandexpandduringbakingtocreateanopen-texturedcrumb.Thelow-acid/high-hydrationapproachinthisbooknecessitatesalengthybulkfermentationduringwhichthestructureofthedoughisdevelopedbyturningthedoughinitscontainer.Witheachturn,thestrengthofthedoughincreasesexponentially.Turnsshouldbemorevigorousatthestartofthebulkfermentationandgentletowardtheendsoasnottodeflateanytrappedgasthatisleaveningthedough.
Thebulkfermentationforthebasiccountrydoughisaccomplishedin3to4hoursifthedoughismaintainedatatemperatureof78°to82°F.Thetimingcanbealteredtosuityourneeds.If,forexample,yourenvironmentis65°to70°Fandyourdoughcoolsdown,therisewilltakeafewhourslonger.Onceyouareabletoanticipatetheeffectsoftemperaturechangesonrisingtime,youcanmakethisworkforyou.OndayswhenIhavetoworkthebreadshiftalone,Imixthedough1°or2°Fcoolerbyusingcoolerwater;thisvariesdependingon
theambienttemperatureandthetemperatureoftheflour.Doingthisadds11/2hoursofbulkfermentation,soIcanbakefortheday,packuporders,andcleanbasketsandclothsbeforeIneedtodivideandshapethenextday’sdough.
Makingnaturalleavenedbreadisforgivingandversatile.Youwillalwaysuseyourleavenatrelativelythesamestageofripeness,butthebulkfermentationtimeandthefinalrisingtimecanbelengthenedconsiderablytospreadtheprocessovertwodays.Therearemanywaystoarrangethis.Oneexampleistoaccomplishthebulkriseduringthedayandthefinalriseovernight.Anotheristoachievethebulkriseovernightandthefinalriseduringthedaysothatyoucanbakeintheafternoonbeforedinner.
Ifthedoughismixedusingcoolerwater,at65°F,itwillneed8to12hoursofbulkfermentation,ratherthan3to4hours,aslongasit’skeptat55°to65°F.Youcanmixthiscooldoughintheeveningbeforeretiring.Thekeyistoarrangeyourscheduletoachieveconveniencewithoutcompromise.
Thebulkrisingtimecanbeshortenedbymixingthedoughwithwaterthatisacoupleofdegreeswarmer,butit’sbestnottosacrificemorethananhourofbulkrisetime.
Ifyouletthebulkfermentationgotoolong,thefinalrisewillbesluggishasthefoodthatfuelsthefermentationhasbeenexhausted.Theglutensinthedoughalsobegindegradingafteracertainpointduetoincreasingacidity,whichresultsinatighter,moreuniformcrumb.Thevolumeofthefinalloafwillbesmaller,andtheflavormoreacidic.Whenthedoughisbaked,thecrustwillcolorfasterduetoresidualsugarsonthesurfaceofthedoughthatcaramelizetooquickly,andthescoresonthesurfacewillnotopenwelltoformthedecorativecrust.Conversely,ifthebulkfermentationiscutshort,thedoughwillnotbeproperlyaerated.Lackingstrength,thepre-shapedroundswillrunonthetabletopduringthebenchrest.Thebakedcolorwillbedull,andagain,thescoreswillnotopenwell—ifatall.
Whenthebulkfermentationiswelltimed,thedividedandshapedloaveswillshowastructureuntothemselves.Whenbaked,thescoreswillopenelegantly,anexpressionofboththeforcewithintheloafandthehandsthatshapedit.
TheShapingandtheBenchRest
Whenyouaredividingyourdoughintotwopiecesforshaping,youcanassesshowitfeelsanddecidehowtoproceedwiththerestoftheprocess.“ShouldIgivethedoughalongbenchresttodevelopmorestrength,orshouldIshapethedoughtwicetogivemoretension?”Youcanmakeimmediateadjustmentsbyallowingforalongerorshorterbenchresttoensureyougettheresultsyouwant.Ifyourdoughcoolsdowntooquicklyafteryoudivideit,orifitseemsheavyandnotsufficientlyaerated,warmuptheroomandgivethedoughmoretimeonthebenchbeforeshaping.Generallyspeaking,ifthedoughisdividedtooearly,youneedmoretimeandmaybeanadditionalshapingwitha15-minuterestinbetween.Takeyourtime—itwillonlymakethebreadbetter.
OneeveningatTartine,Idividedmycountrydoughtooearlyevenafteralongbulkrise.Themarinelayerhadrolledintoourneighborhoodandcaughtmeoffguard.Thedoorsandwindowswereopen,andthetemperaturedropped20°Fin10minutes.Thefermentationslowedtoacrawl.Tocompensate,Ihadtogivethedoughaverylongbenchrest.Breakingfordinner,IatenextdooratDelfinaandcamebacklatertoshapetheloaves.Byallowingtimetocorrectthesituation,Iendedupwithflavorfulandbeautifulloaves.
Divideyourloavestoolate,andyou’llneedtoshapethedoughswiftlyandgently,keepingasmuchairintactaspossible.Inthiscase,you’llwanttobakesoonerratherthanlater—adjustedfromwhateveryou’vedevelopedasyournormalbakingschedule.
Theintialshapingofthedoughsetsstructureforthefinalshape.Withhighlyhydrateddoughs,thefinalshapeiscrucialfordevelopingthetensionorforceneededfortheloaftomaintainitsformthroughoutthelongfinalrise.Properfinalshapingisalsoessentialtoachievethedramaticarced“ears”thatbloomformingadecorativecrustwhenyourscoresexpandandopen.
Althoughtheoverallvolumeofawell-shapedloafandapoorlyshapedonemaybethesame,thescoreswillnotopenonthepoorlyshapedloafwiththesameexpressionasthescoresonawell-shapedone.Structuralshapingisdeceptivelysimpleandtakespracticetomaster,butwiththeskillcomesthefreedomtocraftanybreadyouimagine.
Weachievethenecessarytensionbyusingaseriesofdecisivefolds,eachoneaddingstructureatpointswithintheloaf.Commonpracticeistopressairoutofthedoughandrollittight.Thisknockspreciousgas,anessentialflavorcomponentformedduringthelongrise,outofthedoughandtoughensthecrumb.Onceyougetthehangofstructuralshaping,it’sapleasurewithamplereward.
TheFinalRiseThefinalrisingtimeisvariable.Atwarmproofingtemperaturesaround80°F,loaveswillbereadytobakein3to4hours.Ifyoudon’tretardthefinalrising,yourbreadwillhavelittletonoperceptiblesourflavor,andtheflavorofthewheatwillbemoreup-front.Youstillgainthebenefitsofsourdough:yourbreadwillstayfreshlonger,anditwillhaveamorecomplexsavor.
Retarding,orslowing,thefinalrisebycoolingtheloavesandholdingthemintherefrigeratorenablesyoutocontroltwokeythings:whenyoubakeyourbread,andtheintensityoftheflavors.Duringalongerfinalrise,flavorsgainedfromfermentationbuildtoanoptimalintensityandthenbecomeincreasinglysour.
Soyouhaveawiderangetoworkwith.Youcanmakedelicatelyflavoredbreadthatnoonewouldthinktocallsourdough,oryoucanmakesubstantiallystronger-flavoredbreadtoyourtaste.
TheBakeThisisthefinalactinproducingyourbread.Ibeganbakingwithagas-firedhearthdeckovenduringmyapprenticeshipwithRichardBourdon.ThislastedacoupleyearsuntilIwenttoworkinFranceusing“indirect”wood-firedovens.WhenIfinallyopenedmyfirstbakery,Ioptedfora“direct”wood-firedmasonryoven.Iwantedtolearntobakeinthemostprimitivewaypossible,andthiswasit.Plus,Icouldn’tevenaffordadoughmixer,muchlessaprofessionaldeckoven.
Inadirectlyfiredor“black”oven,thefireisbuiltinsidethedomedchamberwherethebreadwillbebaked,anditburnsforhourstosaturatethemasonrymasswithstoredheat.Woodisaddedintermittently,andthefireisshiftedaroundtheflooroftheovensothatallpartsofthebakingchamberareevenlyheated.Anindirectlyfiredor“white”ovenhasafireboxoutsidethebakingchamberwherethefuelisburned,andtheflamefromthefireisdirectedintothechamber.Theinsidechamberofablackoventurnsblackfromthefire’ssmokeandsoot.Whentheinteriorgetshotenough,itburnsoffclean.Whiteovenshaveventedchamberstopulloffthesmokeandsoot,sothechamberdoesnotturnblack.
AtTartine,webakeataninitiallyhighoventemperatureandthenturntheovenoff.TheideaistousethemodernovenasIusedthewood-firedovens.Amassivemasonryoven,heateddirectly,storesthatheatandthenradiatestheheattobakebreadwithafallingtemperatureoncethedirectheatsourceisoff.Radiantheat,incombinationwithconductiveheat,isthoroughandpenetrating,wellsuitedforbakinghighlyhydrateddoughs.
WhenwebuiltthebakeryinPointReyes,weturnedtoAlanScott,themostrenownedbuilderofwood-firedmasonryovensintheUnitedStates.Akeyaspectofhisbrilliantdesignwastheclosedbakingchamber.Whenthechamberwasfilledwithloavesandthesmalldooronthefrontoftheovenshut,theovenwascompletelysealed.Asbreadbegantobakeinthesteam-filledchamber,thefermentationactivityquicklyanddramaticallyincreased.Thisrapidproductionofgas,alongwiththequicklyexpandingsteampushingagainstthewallsoftheglutenstructure,causedovenspring,theinitialexpansionofvolumeinthebakingloaf.Themoistbakingenvironmentallowedformoreexpansionbeforethecrustformed,resultinginasuperiorvolumeandalight,opencrumbinthe
finalloaves.Thestarchonthesurfaceoftheloaveswasmoistenedandgelatinizedduringbakingtogiveaslightsheentothecrust.Withthecombocooker,youareabletoachievethiseffectathome,oneloafatatime.
Expensivemoderndeckovensareequippedwithsteaminjectorsthathumidifythechamberbeforeandduringloading.Steaminjectorsareanecessity,asdeckovensrequirealotofsteamjustbeforeloadingwithbreadtosaturatethechamberwithmoistureandduringthefirst10to15minutesofbakinguntilthedeckisfullofbread,whichthengeneratesitsownsteam.
Bakingyourbreadinacast-ironcombocookergivesyouthesameresultsyou’dgetwithaprofessionaldeckovenbycreatingacompletelysealed,radiant-heatenvironment.Theloafitselfgeneratestheperfectamountofsteamuntilyouremovethecookerlidtoallowtheformationofthecrusttofinishthebake.Thecooker’ssealedsteam-saturatedchambergivesconsiderablybetterresultsinovenspringandscoredevelopmentthanbakingaloafonabakingstoneplacedinahomeoven.Duringourtestsusingbakingstones,whentheovenwasfully
saturatedandclosed,wewatchedsteampouringoutofseamsallaround.It’snotpossibletoreplicatethesameenvironmentinastandardhomeovenwithoutcreatingasealedoveninsidetheoven.Thatiswhatthecombocookerdoes.
Oncetheovenspringhasbeenachievedandthecrustisstartingtoset,youventthesteambyremovingthecookerlidtoallowtheformationofthecrustanditsgradualbutthoroughcaramelization.Whenthecrustiswellcoloredandtheloafsoundshollowwhentappedonthebottom,thebreadisdone.Theinteriortemperatureoftheloafwillread212°F.Theloafwillhavealightnessinthehand,indicatingthattherightamountofwaterhasbeencookedoutofit.
Breadthatcoolsslowlywillkeepfreshlonger.Stacktheloavestogetheronedgeandletthemcoolfor2to4hours.Thisisnotnecessary,though.It’sagreatpleasuretopassahotloaffromtheoventoabreadlover.Iprefertoeatfreshbreadveryfresh.Otherwise,Ifryitinapanwitholiveoilorbutter,toastit,ormakeoneoftherecipesinChapter4usingday-oldbread.Inanycase,itisalwayseaten.Fryingaslicecutfromaloafstillwarmfrombakingwillyieldanexquisitedelicacy—crisp,friededgeswithacustardyinterior.
JeffreySteingarten,authorofTheManWhoAteEverything,onceaskedme,“Whatgoodismakinggreatbreadifnobodygetstoeatitbutyouandyourfriends?”Theanswercomeseasyonceyoubakeyourfirstloaf.
TESTBAKERS
Traininganapprenticetobakebreadisonething,butteachingsomeonehowtodoitinprintisquiteanother.IknewthatthemostimportantaspectofthisbookwouldbetheeffectivenessoftherecipeforBasicCountryBread,soEricandIaskedfriendstohelpustranslatethisTartineloafintotheirrespectivehome-bakingscenarios.Ericsetupapassword-protectedblogandpostedthephotosandtextasIplannedthematerialtobepublished.
Enlistingagroupofadozencommittedtestbakers,wesuppliedthemwithdutchovencombocookersandpostedthefirstroundofphotosandinstructions.InitiallyIwroteverysimpleinstructions,hopingtoencouragethetesterstoapproachtheprocesswithacloseeyeontheimageswiththefreedomtolearnfromtheirexperience.Soonphotos,personalaccounts,andquestionsstartedpouringin.Avibrantdiscourseensuedasmanyplungedintotheprojectwithfocusedenthusiasm.
ItwasclearthatIhadworktodoonthebasicrecipe,butIneverexpectedsuchconsistentlyimpressiveresults.Manytestersmadeexceptionalbread,judgedbyprofessionalstandards—itwasvirtuallyindistinguishablefromourownTartinebread.Theirbreadgaveusnoreasontotakeintoconsiderationthattheyweremakingitathome,withnoexperienceandwithoutprofessionalequipment.Granted,thetesterswhoprevailedwerededicatedandgenuinelyinterestedinbuildingaleaventomakegreatbread.
Afewtestersstartedmodifyingtherecipetosuittheirschedules.EricandI,alongwithNateYanko,myleadbreadbakeratTartine,andLoriOyamada—thefreshestfacetojointhebreadshift—weremakingbreadforthedailyproductionwhilecontinuingtoassembleandtestotherrecipesforthebook.Therewasnotimetomaintaintheblogproperly,andourtesterswentrogue.Whenwecaughtupwiththemmonthslater,theyweredoingtheirownthing—withimpressiveresults.
Whenwetoldfriendsaboutthebookproject,ourtesters’experienceswerewhatresonatedthestrongest:Thegradstudentwhohadneverbakedbeforemadebetterbreadthanmostcommercialbakeries.Theformerchefandavidhomebakergotresultshehadpracticallygivenupon.Thefirst-timerestaurantownerdecidedthathewantedtomakethebreadforhiscafeinsteadofbuyingit.
Ourtestersprovethatgreatbreadispossible,nomatterhowlittletimeorexperienceyouhave.Theyinnovatedalongtheway,andweallbecamebetterbakersforit.
Marie:
EveryotherFridayatTartine,wearetreatedtothemusicofafineaccordionplayerandhertrio.Mariehasawarmsmileandanengagingpersonality,andvolunteeredtobeatesterbeforewefinishedtellingherabouttheidea.Shewasafull-timegradstudentandaworkingmusicianwithnobakingexperiencewhatsoever.
Mariestartedher“breadadventure”rightawayandposteddetailedaccountsofherexperience.Shedescribedherearlyeffortswiththestarterinpersonalterms,asifsheweregettingtoknowsomeone.Sheadmitteditwas“awkward”atfirst.ShecarriedherstarteronaweeklongtriptoBrooklyn,playingshowsnightly,andbakedherfirstloaftwodaysaftershereturnedtotheWestCoast.
Shealsocameupwithherownsimpleandeffectivebakingaid.Shemadeachartonindexcardswithfivecolumns:(1)bakingstages,(2)estimatedtimeeachstagetakes(frombasicrecipe),(3)plannedtime,(4)actualtime,and(5)temperatureoftheroom/ovenforeachstage.Thechartwassohandythatsheusediteverytimeshebaked.Shewasabletoworkoutherbakingscheduleaheadoftime,andplantherestofherdaydecidingwhethershewantedtomix
inthemorningortheafternoon.Onceshehadthestagesandtheirapproximatetimingonthechart,shecouldplugindifferenttimestofigureouthowbesttofitbakingintoherschedule.“Itallowedmetogeterrandsdone,goforarun,andeditpapers—mydayendedupbeingsomuchmoreproductivethanitwould’vebeenifIhadn’tbakedbread.”
Mariehadalreadybakedeighttimeswhenwewenttoseeherathome.Thoughherbreadwascomingoutbeautifully,shenotedthattheactualtimesnolongermatchedtheestimatedtimes.Luckilyshehadsavedallthecards,witheverythingindetail.Reviewingthecards,wenoticedaremarkableprogression.Atfirstshewasverystrictaboutcontrollingtheambientroomtemperature,andtheentireprocesskeptveryclosetotheestimatedschedule.Afterthefourthbakingsession,herroomtemperaturefluctuated(anormaloccurrenceintheBayArea),andtheactualtimeswereoffbyafewhours.
Farfromviewingthisasafault,wesawitasanindicationthatshewasdevelopingarealbaker’sintuition.Ratherthanbakingbythenumbers,shewasrespondingtothedough.Thefirstfewbakingsessionstaughtherwhattolookfor.Then,whencoolroomtemperaturesthrewthestarterandthenthebulkfermentationoff,shewaited,increasingherrisingtimes,insteadofrushingtheprocess.
Thoughshenowleavesherstarterbehindwhenshetravels,Mariecontinuestobake.Sheuseshernotecardsbutwithanextraelementofcontrol:shecontrolstheambienttemperatureduringthebulkfermentationtoshortenorextendthetimingbasedonherscheduleofactivitiesfortheday.Sheloveseatingandsharingherloaves,butwhatshemostlooksforwardtoisthefaintcrackleofthehotcrustasitcools—the“song”ofthebread.
Mark:
IfMarieshowedthatthismethodworkswellforthecompletenovice,Markwouldbeproofthatitofferedsomethingusefulformoreexperiencedbakers.Hehadworkedinabakerywhenhewasinhisearlytwentiesandsincethenhadreadmostbooksonthesubject.Ameticulous,self-effacing“sciencegeek”withaquicksenseofhumor,hepressedusfordetailstobolsterhisalreadystrongintuition.Wesenthimacombocookerandinsistedhestartbydoingexactlywhathesawinthepictures.
Markhadbeenbakingbreadathomeforyears—withalong,passionatedetourintodoughnuts—andwasskepticalaboutmyclaimthathecouldmakeTartinebreadinhishomeoven.Hisearlyloaveswerestunning,andthebasiccountryrecipeisbetterforhispointedandinsightfulquestions.
WewenttohishomeinSebastopoltobakewithhim.Asticklerfordetails,hestayedclosetotheoriginalmethod.Hecontrolledtheambienttemperatureduringthebulkrisebyusingtheovenasaproofingchamber(seepage52).Insteadofusingapotofhotwater,heturnsontheovenforafewminuteseveryhalfhourtoheathisbakingstone.(Heclaimshehasn’tyetforgottentoturnitoff.)Heuseshalfofthedoughforpizzaandtheotherhalfforbread,whichhebakesthesameday.
“First,Ican’tbelievethatIhavebreadlikethisinmyhomemadebymyownhands.Onebite,andIsaid,‘Thistasteslikerealbread.’Iwasalwaysstymiedinmyattempttomakebreadwiththetextureandcrustthatispossible
fromaproperbreadoven.Ifeltthattherewasaceilingonthequalitypossiblefromsomethingbakedtraditionallyathomeandwasacceptingthatbelief(withagreatdealoftherapyImightadd).
“Whatyouhavehelpedmewithisabetterunderstandingofandskillswithmystarter.Sinceitisliterallytheheart,soul,andlifeofthesebreads,alloftherestisdecorationuntilalivelydoughcanbecreated.WhileIhadreadaboutthecast-ironmethodbefore,yourdoughcomesoutmuchbetterusingitthanonanypreviousdoughImadeandbakedthatway.Themagic,then,isclearlyinthemethod.”
Withthat,theconversationturnedbacktodoughnuts.
Dave:
WemetDaveinthewater,asurferandartistwhohadsupportedhimselfforyearsasabartender,afewmonthsbeforeheandhiswifeweresettoopenasmallcaféablockfromourhomebreak—OceanBeach.Hehadrecentlyleasedanabandoned,barelyequippedrestaurantspace.Davepouredthelastofhissavingsintothecaféandhiredasmallstaffwiththeunderstandingthathehadnocashflowandcouldpaythembasedonlyonwhattherestaurantmadedaytoday.
Davewasdoingmostoftheremodelandrepairworkhimself.HehadjustfinishedabeautifulmosaicmadeofNorthernCaliforniadriftwood.Earlierinthemonth,hehadlearnedtomillwoodsohecouldpaneltheentirewallwithsalvaged,wornredwoodfenceboards.Despitehisdo-it-yourselfphilosophy,heknewhislimitsinthekitchen.Hecouldn’tbethechefofhisrestaurant,buthestillwantedtoplayapartincreatingthefood,andhementionedwantingtomakethebreadhimself.
Ithoughtitwasalotforhimtotakeonatthetime,astheyhadababyduearoundthetimetheywerescheduledtoopentheplace.ButIunderstoodhismotivationanddevisedasimplemethodthatwouldenableDavetomakegoodbreadwithlittletimeandnoexperience.
Ibroughthimfivepoundsofflourandexplainedhowtomakeastarter.Idirectedhimtothetesterblogandtoldhimtocallmewithanyquestions.Afewmonthspassedwithoutaword,untilonedaywegotacallatthebakery:“We’vebeenopenforthreemonths,andpeoplearegoingnutsoverthebread.Whenareyouguyscomingin?”
ThenexttimewesawDaveacoupleofmonthslater,hehadababydaughter;therestaurantwasfullandhadacrowdwaitingoutsideforopenseats;andhisbreadwasoneverytable.Hisloaveslookedlikedriftwood,remindingmeoftherusticbreadof“theawesomebaker”inBordeauxyearsago,andtheinsidecrumbwasspongyandmoist.Ithadthebalancedacidityyougetonlyfromalongfermentationwithayoungstarter.Thoughhisbreadhadmanyofthecharacteristicswestrivefor,itwasauniqueloafandbeautifullymatchedtheaestheticofhissmallcafé.
EricstayedthatnighttowatchDavemakebread.Overthepreviousfewmonths,hehadradicallydepartedfrommyoriginalmethod.Hedidn’tdoitintentionally—hereallythoughthewasdoingthingsclosetothewaythatIhadshownhim—butheadmittedhehadreadtherecipeonlyonce.
Wecouldseethatthelimitationsofhisscheduleandequipmenthadnecessitatedacompletelydifferentapproach.Hedoesn’thavealargeoven(forgetfree-formhearthloaves),alargerefrigerator(forgetretarding),orevenamixer.Whathedoeshaveisafewfreehoursintheeveningafterthedinnerserviceand,underasix-burnerrange,asingleconvectionovenwithabrokendoorfromwhichheneededtopullfortyloavesaday.
AlthoughDavedidn’thavetheknow-howtoconceiveabakingschedulefromtheoutset,hehadadaptedtohiscircumstances.Hemixedhisleavenbetweenlunchanddinnerserviceataround5P.M.Hethenmixedthedoughafewhourslater,whenthedinnershiftwaswindingdown,developingthe78percenthydrationdoughwithturnseveryfifteenminutes.Thebulkfermentation
lastedforbarelyanhourbeforehedividedandshapedthedough.Afterathirty-minutebenchrest—duringwhichhewasheddishesandfinishedcleaning—heshapedtheloavesandputtheminmetalloafpansbrushedwitholiveoil.Afterslashingtheloaveswitharazor—“What,youguysreallydothisrightbeforeyoubake?”—heletthemsitoutandriseovernight.Thebreadwasbakedat7A.M.thenextmorning,oftenbeforeorafteraquicksurfsession.
Hadheconsultedmebefore,Imighthaveadvisedadifferentsystem.Buttheproofwasintheresults:Dave’sbreadisexcellentandfitsperfectlywithinhisconstraints.Butwhydoesitwork?
Davecan’tbakefree-formloavesbecausehedoesn’thaveabigenoughoven.Soheusespans.Thiswasaluckycoincidence,becausethepansarethekeytothesuccessofhisfermentationschedule.Becausehecan’tmakebreaduntilafterthedinnerservice,hisdoughundergoesbulkfermentationforonlyanhour.Itstillfeelslifelesswhenhedividesandshapes.Thiswouldspelldisasterforafree-formhearthloaf,whichreliesonthetensiondevelopedduringthebulkfermentationtoholditsshapeduringthelongfinalrise.
ButDavedoesn’thavetoworryaboutthelackoftensionbecausetheloafpanssupportthedoughallthewaythroughtothebake.Hecan’tdoalongbulkfermentation(asitis,hefinishesshapingaroundmidnight),sohemakesupforitwithalongriseinthepansatroomtemperature(about65°F).Ifhedidhavethetimetogivethedougha“proper”bulkfermentationaccordingtothebasicrecipe,hisbreadwouldbereadytobakeinthemiddleofthenight.Hewouldneedtoretardthefermentation,buthedoesnothavetherefrigeratorspacetoretardtheloavesinhissmallcafé.
Asitis,Daveisabletosqueezetheactiveworkingtimeintoanarrowwindow.Thenheletsthelongriseovernightdotherestofthework,sothathisbreadisreadytobakewhenhewakesupthenextmorning.Hisbreadrisesovernightatroomtemperatureintherestaurant.Theyoungstarterhereiskey.Ifhedidn’tuseit,hisbreadwouldbeoverwhelminglysouranddense.
ThereisabuzzintheneighborhoodaboutDave’sbread—adevelopmentthatgenuinelysurpriseshim.Herecountswithgoodhumortheconversationswithexcitedcustomerswhoaskhimhowlonghehasbeenbakingbread.“IwanttotellthemIreallydon’tknowwhatI’mdoing.”
ThebreadisasmallbutessentialpartofDave’sbroadervisionforthebusiness.Despitethefifteen-hourdays,heishappywithhowthingsaregoing:“It’sthefirsttimeIhavenothadtocompromisemyselftodosomething.I’m
doingworkthat’sthoroughlyinlinewithmyethics.ThereisnopartofthisrestaurantthatI’mnotproudof.”Helooksovertohiswifeandyoungdaughter.“It’snotjusttheethics,though;thereasonit’sworkingsowellforusisthatit’sinlinewithwhoweare.Thefactthatit’ssituatedinourneighborhoodamongpeopleweknow.Therestaurant,thebread...they’rejustanextensionofourselvesandanhonestportrayalofwhowewanttobe.”
Havinglittlefreetimemeansprioritizingthethingshewantstodomost.“MydreamwillberealizedwhenIcansurfeverydaythatit’sgood,spendtimewithmyfamily,andthenputinasoliddayofworkamongfriends.”
VARIATIONSONBASICCOUNTRYBREAD
Iworkedaloneforadecade,choppingwooddaily,firingtheoven,andmixingdoughsbyhand.Earlyon,itbecameclearthatIcouldnotmaintainthequalityIwantedmixingmultipledoughswitheachonefermentingatdifferentpaceswhileIhandledthedemandsofaone-manbakeshop.IfIwantedtomaintainconsistency,Ihadtosimplifythings.SoImixedonelargedoughperday,addedingredientstoflavor,andemployeddifferentshapestooffermyregularcustomersarangeofbreadstochoosefrom.
Allofthesebreadsusethebasiccountrydough.Theprocedureforaddingtheingredientstothedoughisthesameforallvariations—duringthebulkfermentation,generallyafterthefirstturn.Don’tworryifthedoughfeelsasifit’sbreakingapart.Itwillcomebacktogetherafterafewminutes’rest.
Theamountsfortheadditionsineachvariationareenoughforonerecipeofbasiccountrydough,whichyieldstwoloaves.Ifyouwanttomaketwodifferentvariationswithonedoughmix,dividethedoughinhalfafterthefirstturnandaddhalfoftheadditionstoeachpieceofdough.Ofcourse,addmoreorlesstosuityourtaste.
OliveAtTartine,welikeamixofgreenolivesandoil-curedblackolives.Foraspell,Iinsistedonusingonlygreenlucquesolives.Thiswasmyfavoriteversionofourolivebread,butittookhoursforustopittheolivesbyhandforthequantityofbreadweproduced.Pittingoliveswouldcertainlybeworththeeffortonasmallscale.Tastedifferentolivevarietiesandusetheonesyoulikethemost.AnothervariationIfirstmadeinMillValleyincorporatestoastedwalnutsorhazelnutsalongwiththeolivesandherbs.Therearealotofflavorsatoncewiththisone,buteatenwitharoundofpiquantgoatcheese;fresh,ripefigsorpersimmons;andourlocalgreens,theolive-nutbreadmakesafinemeal.
Makes2loaves3cupspittedolives,coarselychopped2cupswalnutsorhazelnuts,toastedandcoarselychopped(optional)2teaspoonsdriedherbesdeProvenceGratedzestof1lemon1recipeBasicCountryBreaddough(page45)
Inabowl,stirtogethertheolives,nuts(ifusing),herbesdeProvence,andlemonzest.Aftergivingthedoughafirstturninstep5(seepage54),addtheolivemixturetothedoughandmoistenwithalittlewater.Useyourhandstocutandincorporatetheingredientsintothedough.Completethebulkfermentationasdirected.
SesameDeeplytoastedsesameseedslendanunexpecteddepthofsavortothebread.Afteryouincorporatetheseedsintothedough,thesesamearomagetsstrongerasitmixeswiththearomasofnaturalfermentation.Theflavormellowsafterthedoughisbaked.ThisbreadcanbeusedinterchangeablywiththeBasicCountryBreadandisastandoutinplacesyoumightnotexpect:grilledcheesesandwiches,peanutbutterandjellysandwiches,steakandeggsontoast,andPanconTomate(page199).
Makes2loaves1cupunhulledsesameseeds1recipeBasicCountryBreaddough(page45)
Preheattheovento400°F.Spreadthesesameseedsevenlyonarimmedbakingsheet.Baketheseedsfor10minutes.Removefromtheovenandredistributetheseeds—thoseneartheouterrimwillbedarkerthanthoseinthemiddle.Continuetobaketheseedsuntilwelltoasted,10to15minutes.Letcoolfor20minutes.
Aftergivingthedoughafirstturninstep5(seepage54),addthecooledseedstothedoughandmoistenwithalittlewater.Useyourhandstocutandsqueezetheseedsintothedough.Completethebulkfermentationasdirected.
WalnutWalnutbreadshouldhavenutsineverybite.Itisexpensivebreadtomakeusinggood,organicnuts,andworthdoingwell.Asforthesesameseedvariation,thewalnutsaretoastedtointensifytheirflavor.Tanninsinthewalnutsstreakthedoughpurple.Ifyoulike,alsoincorporatewalnutoil.Adecadentadditionof2tablespoonsoffinewalnutoil(ormoreorlesstotaste)providesanaddedlayerofwalnutflavor.
Makes2loaves3cupswalnuts1recipeBasicCountryBreaddough(page45)
Preheattheovento425°F.Spreadthewalnutsevenlyonarimmedbakingsheet.Bakethenutsforabout15minutes,stirringevery5minutessotheytoastevenly.Totestfordoneness,breakopenawalnut.Theinsideshouldhavealightcaramelcolor;theoutsideshouldbeashadedarker.Letcoolfor20minutes.Breakthenutsinhalf,orcoarselychopthemifyouwantsmallerpieces.
Aftergivingthedoughasecondturninstep5(seepage54),addthewalnutstothedoughandmoistenwithwater.Useyourhandstocutandsqueezethenutsintothedough.Completethebulkfermentationasdirected.
Polenta
Anygrain—aslongasitiscookedorsoakedinhotwaterandthencooled—canbeaddedtotheBasicCountryBreaddough.UsingacoarsepolentasoakerIfirstexperimentedwithatBourdon’sintheBerkshires,thisbreadwasanearlyfavoriteattheBerkeleyFarmers’Market.AlongwiththeBolinasPeople’sstore,Toby’sFeedBarn,TomalesBayFoods,andManka’sInvernessLodge,theBerkeleyFarmers’Marketsustainedoursmallbusinessformanyyears.
Steepcoarse-groundpolentainboilingwaterbeforemixingitintothedough.Thepolentaaddsacustardliketexturetothecrumb,andgoldencornoiladdsmoredepthtothecornflavor.Thetoastedpumpkinseedsandfreshrosemarycomplementthenatureofthisbreadwell.
1cuppumpkinseeds1cuppolenta
2cupsboilingwater3tablespoonsunrefined,unfilteredcornoil1tablespoonchoppedfreshrosemary1recipeBasicCountryBreaddough(page45)
Preheattheovento400°F.Spreadthepumpkinseedsevenlyonarimmedbakingsheet.Baketheseedsuntiltheystarttopopandturnfromlightgreentobrown,about10minutes,stirringthemonceafter5minutes.Letcoolfor20minutes.
Inabowl,stirtogetherthepolentaandboilingwaterandsetasidefor30minutesoruntilcool.Stirthecornoil,rosemary,andpumpkinseedsintothepolenta.
Aftergivingthedoughasecondturninstep5(page54),addthepolentamixturetothedoughandmoistenwithalittlewater.Useyourhandstocutandsqueezetheingredientsintothedough.Completethebulkfermentationasdirected.
PizzaBythetimethefinalshapingisfinishedonthebreadshift,thebreadbakersarethelastonesleftatthebakery.Onoccasion,wepinchsomedoughandbringittotheapartmentupstairstomakepizzafordinner.We’refortunatetohaveanoldgasovenwithashelfbroilerandbrokenthermostat.Withtheheatingelementcrankedtobroilandaterra-cottatilepositionedrightaboveit,theoventurnsoutablisterypieinabout3minutes.Ourcurrentpizzarevival,withalltheattitude,manifestos,and“secrets”(theflour!thewater!theoven!),isamusing.Juststartwithgoodbreaddoughandaveryhotbakingstone,andyouwillendupwithagreatpizza.
Nettle
You’llneedapizzapeelandabakingstoneorceramictileatleast12inchessquare.
Makes1pizza
400gramsBasicCountryBreaddough(page45)CornmealfordustingAll-purposeflourfordustingTOPPING
6cupsfreshnettleleaves1/2cupheavycreamRedpepperflakesSalt2ouncesmozzarellacheese,cutinto1/2-inchcubes
2ouncesfontinacheese,cutinto1/2-inchcubes
Dividethedoughasdirectedinstep6onpage56,makingsurethatonepieceweighs400grams.Shapeeachpieceandletoneroundrestontheworksurfacefor30minutes.
Meanwhile,positionarackinthemiddleoftheovenandremovetheotherracks.Placethebakingstoneontherack.Preheattheovenatitshighestsetting—about500°F.Allow15minutestothoroughlyheatthestone.
Whentheovenishot,dustapizzapeelwithcornmeal.Thishelpskeepthedoughfromsticking,anditeasesthetransferofthedoughfromthepeeltothestone.Dustthedoughroundwithflourandtransferittothepeel,placingitflour-sidedown.
Dustthedoughwithalittlemoreflour.Pressthedoughround1/2inchfromtheedgetocreatearim.Liftupthedoughandplacethecenterontothebackofoneofyourhands.Stretchthedoughusingthebackofyourotherhandsothatitspreadsfromthemiddle.Rotatethedougharoundonyourhandandletgravityhelpstretchitevenly.Whenthedoughissufficientlystretched,layitonthepeel.Ifthedoughrippedwhileyouwereshapingit,pressthetearbacktogether.Thediametershouldbesmallerthanthestonebutcanvarydependingonhowthickorthinyouwantyourpizzatobe.Placethedoughonthepeel.
Tomakethetopping,usetongswhenhandlingnettles,astheywillsting.Inabowl,tossthenettleswiththecreamandapincheachofredpepperflakesandsalt.Distributethecheesesacrossthedoughandmoundthenettlesontop.Theywillcookdownquiteabitduringthebaking,soyoucanusemanymorenettlesthanyouthink.
Shakethepeeltoloosenthedoughandmakesureitslideseasily.Ifit’sstucktothepeel,useaspatulatoliftitupandaddmorecornmealunderthedough.Opentheovendoorandplacethefaredgeofthepeelagainstthefarsideofthebakingstone.Shakethepeelandpullitoutoftheoventoslidethepizzaontothestone.
Bakethepizzafor4to8minutes,dependingonhowhotyourovengets.Checkthebottomofthepizzaforcharmarks—anindicationthatthedoughisbakedthrough.Whenthepizzaisdone,slidethepeelunderitandremovefromtheoven.Placethepizzaonacuttingboardandcutintowedgestoserve.
MargheritaPizza
PizzaMargheritaistheclassicNeopolitanpizzawithscant-but-perfectly-balancedtoppings.Bakedblisteringhot,traditionallyinawood-firedoven,theroundofdoughissaucedwithaspoonfuloftomatosauce.Tornpiecesoffreshmozzarellaarearrangedontop,andthediskispeeledintoa900°Fovenwithafireburninginside.
Cookedinunder2minutes,theoutsidecoronacolorswithcharredblisterswhiletheinteriorremainspliable.TheMargheritaisfinishedwithfreshlypickedbasilstrewnoverthebubblingsauceandcheese.Dripchilioiloverthetopforaddedheat,orgoodextra-virginoliveoiltoaddarichnote.Suchperfectsimplicityhasbecometheiconicimageofpizzaacrosstheworld.
Hereweuseourhomeovenblastedonthebroilsettingtodeliciouseffect.Ourneighbor,andpizzaobsessive,JeffKrupmanhasmodifiedaportableWeberhomegrillintoawood-burningpizzaovenaffectionatelydubbed“theFrankenWeber.”
Whenhe’sontheblock,weprefertousehisrig.
PotatoFocacciaIfirsttastedthispotatoflatbreadmanyyearsagoatSullivanSt.Bakery,theninSoho,hotfromtheovenandpowerfullydelicious.Tryingtoachievesomethingsimilar,ImadethisversionafterIgothome.Thepotatoesaresaltedanddrained,andthewaterthat’spressedoutisreplacedwithflavorfuloliveoil,whichgivesthebakedpotatotoppingasatisfyingrichness.
ThisisoneofmyfavoriterecipesfromourdayssellingattheBerkeleyFarmers’MarketwhereIcouldalwaystradefocacciaforasliceofCheeseboardpizza.Weoftenmakeaversionofthisflatbreadforfamilymealatthebakery,toppingitwithwhateverwehaveonhand:Concordgrapesandfromageblanc;sweetpeasandsummersquash;cornandPadrónpeppers.
Youcanusefreshdoughasyouwouldforpizzaorapieceofdoughthatyou’veretardedovernightintherefrigerator.Atthebakery,wepullaloaffromtherackthathasfermentedovernight,stretchitout,addthetoppings,andbake.
Makes1focaccia1recipeBasicCountryBreaddough(page45)3poundswaxypotatoessuchasYukongold
11/2teaspoonssalt
Freshlygroundpepper1/2cupoliveoil
Leavesfrom1bunchfreshthyme3ouncespecorinocheese
Ifusingfreshdough,shapeitasdirectedinstep6onpage56.Letrestontheworksurfacefor30minutes.Ifusingdoughfromtherefrigerator,letitsitatroomtemperaturefor30minutestowarmup.
Usingamandoline,cutthepotatoesintothin,translucentslices.Placeinacolanderandtosswiththesalt.Letstandfor20minutestoreleasetheliquid.Pressorsqueezeouttheremainingliquidfromthepotatoesuntiltheystopdripping.Inalargebowl,tosstogetherthepotatoslices,peppertotaste,oliveoil,andhalfofthethymeleaves.
Preheattheovento500°F.Brusharimmedbakingsheetwitholiveoil.Transferthedoughtothepanandstretchittotheedges.Don’tforcethedoughifittightensbeforeyoucanspreadit.Letitrestforafewminutesandcontinuestretching,takingcarenottopressallthegasoutofthedough.
Distributethepotatoesoverthesurfaceofthedough.Bakefor15minutes,thencheckthefocacciaandrotatethepantobakeevenly.Continuebakinguntilthefocacciaisgoldenbrownandthepotatoesarecrisp,about20minutes.Removethefocacciatoacuttingboard.Shaveorgratethepecorinooverthetopandgarnishwiththeremainingthyme.Cutthefocacciaandservewarm.Orletcoolonarackandthencut.
CHAPTER2
SemolinaandWhole-WheatBreads
USINGVARIETIESOFWHEATTHATARELESSCOMMONLYBAKEDintobread,suchassemolina,orvaryingtheamountofwhole-grainwheatwillgiveyourbreadadifferentcharacterfromtheBasicCountryBreadwhilemaintainingitsessentialqualities.Muchofthebasicrecipeandmethodarethesame.
SEMOLINABREAD
Theheartofthedurumwheatberry,semolinaisgoldenyellowandhigherinproteinthancommonwheatbreadflour.Durumsemolinaiswhatgivespastaitscharacteristicyellowcolor.InsouthernItaly,finelygroundsemolinawasmostoftencheaperthanwhitesiftedwheatflourandwasusedtomakethedailybreadofSicilians,calledpanerimacinato.
Traditionally,thebreadwashomemade,raisedwithnaturalleaven,andbakedinawood-firedoven.Itwaseatenwarmorgrilledwithfreshricotta,marjoram,anchovies,andoliveoil.Wefryasliceofthebreadinoliveoilandcutitintobatonstoprepareabaker’ssnackofsheep’smilkricotta,walnutAnchoïade(page187),andCalabrianchilipaste,enjoyedwithfreshfigsandlocalhoneyfromSanFrancisco’sMissionDistrict.
Thehigherproteincontentofsemolinaflourcallsformorewaterinthemixingprocesstoachieveadoughthatfeelssimilartothebasiccountrydough.Ablendofsemolinaflourandregularwheatbreadflourisusedinan70/30ratio.Whilethesemolinabreadhasanotablygolden-coloredcrumb,theflavorisonlyslightlydifferentfromthatofnormalwheatbread.Theadditionalflavoringofcrushedtoastedfennel,poppy,andsesameseedscomplementsthenatureofthegrain:asalways,adjusttheamountstosuityourtaste.
Makes2loaves
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY BAKER’SPERCENTAGE
Leaven 200grams 20
Water(80°F) 750gramsplus50grams 80
SemolinaFlour 700grams 70
All-purposeorBreadFlour 300grams 30
FennelSeeds 75grams 7.5
SesameSeeds 75grams 7.5
Salt 20grams 2
MixedSeedsforCoating* 200grams
*Useamixtureoffennel,poppy,andsesameseeds,untoasted.
Preparetheleavenasdirectedinstep1oftheBasicCountryBreadrecipe(seepage45).Whentheleavenpassesthefloattest,youarereadytomixthesemolinadough.
Pourthe750gramswarmwaterintoalargemixingbowl.Addtheleavenandstirittodisperse.Addthesemolinaflourandtheall-purposeflour.Usingyourhands,mixthoroughlyuntilnobitsofdryflourremain.Letthedoughrestinthebowlfor25to40minutes.
Whilethedoughisresting,toastthefennelseedsandsesameseedsinaskilletovermedium-highheatforabout5minutes.Transfertoasmallbowltocool.Coarselygrindthetoastedseedsinamortarwithapestleorpulseinaspicegrinder.Addpoppyseedstoseedmixture.
Aftertherestingperiod,addthesaltandthe50gramswarmwatertothedough.Incorporatethesaltbysqueezingthedoughbetweenyourfingers.Thedoughwillfirstbreakapartandthenwillre-formasyouturnitinthebowl.Don’tworryifthesaltdoesnotseemtodissolverightaway.Transferthedoughtoaclearcontainerasdirectedinstep4onpage52andbeginthebulkfermentation.Followtheinstructionsforturningthedoughinstep5onpage54.Aftergivingthedoughasecondturn,addthegroundfennelandsesameseedstothedoughandmoistenwithalittlewater.Useyourhandstocutandsqueezetheseedsintothedough.Completethebulkfermentationasdirected.
Followsteps6through8onpages56to58fortheinitialshaping,benchrest,andfinalshaping.Aftercompletingthefinalshaping,rollthetopofeachloafinthemixedseeds.Transfereachloaftobasketsorbowlsforthefinalrise,seeded-sidedown,asdirectedinstep9onpage58.Bakeeachloaf,followingsteps1through7onpages65to68.
VARIATIONONSEMOLINABREAD
GoldenRaisin,FennelSeed,andOrangeZestThisdriedfruitvariationgivestheloafasweeterflavorprofile.Goldenraisinsandfennelseedareaclassiccombination.Ienjoythisbreadforbreakfast,toastedandspreadwithbutterandmarmalade.
Makes2loaves3cupsgoldenraisins
11/2tablespoonsfennelsseeds,toastedandcrushed
1teaspooncorianderseeds,toastedandcrushed1recipeSemolinaBread(page110)Gratedzestof1Valenciaorange
Puttheraisinsinabowlandaddwarmwatertocover.Soaktheraisinsfor30minutes.Drainandreturntothebowl.Addthefennelandcorianderseedsandorangezest.
Aftergivingthedoughasecondturninstep5onpage54,addtheraisinmixturetothedoughandmoistenwithalittlewater.Useyourhandstocutandsqueezethemixtureintothedough.Completethebulkfermentation,shapingandbakingasdirected.
WHOLEWHEAT:COMPLETANDINTEGRAL
RichardBourdonintroducedmetotheartisan-stylewholegrainloaf.Likemanyofuswhosemothersmadelunchmeatsandwichesonhoney-bakedwheatloaves,Igrewupthinkingthatwhole-wheatbreadwasasweet,softloafresemblingbrownWonderbread.Tothisday,Ican’tresistabologna,cheese,andmayosandwichonthisbread.ButRichard’sbreadwasdifferent—afree-formloafwithamoistcrumbandasubstantial,burnishedbrowncrust.
WorkinginFrancewithDanielColinandPatrickLePort,Ifoundtheirsignaturebreadsincludedwhole-grainhearthbreadswithsimilarcharacteristicstoRichard’sandthesefurtherinformedthewayIapproachedwhole-grainbaking.Bothbakersmadetwoversionsofbrownbread.Thecompletusedablendofwhiteandwhole-grainfloursandproducedalightwheatbread.Thesecond,calledintegral,wasmadefrom100-percentwhole-grainwheatflourandhadadarker,densercrumbwithamorepronouncedwhole-wheatflavor.Thesearetheloaveswelivedon,alongwithpâtéandflagonsofrosé.
Whethercompletorintegral,doughwithahighpercentageofwhole-wheatflourrequireshigherhydrationthanwhitebread,asthebranpresentinthewhole-wheatflourabsorbsmorewater.Itisdifficulttogetthesameopentextureinawhole-wheatloaf.Thebranparticlespuncturethedevelopedglutenwalls,whichpreventsthedoughfromholdingasmuchgasandachievingthesamevolumeaswhiteflourdoes.Isuggeststartingwithacompletdough,whichhasalightertexturethantheintegral,andthenadjustingtheblendbasedonyourpreferences.Theholygrailofawholegrainhearthbreadwithanopencrumblikethebasiccountryloafisonethatcanbeachieved—evenasafleetinganomalywhollydependentontheseasonalqualitiesofthegrainused.It’sabsolutelyworththetroubletogetthere.
AtTartine,wemakeourwholewheatwiththesameleavenweusefortheBasicCountryBread.Somebakersinsistonmaintainingasecondstarterthatis100-percentwholegrainfortheirdarkbread,butforusit’snotworththetrouble.Wholegrain,afterall,contains100percentofthe“white”flour.Ifyouwishtoconvertyourleaventowholegrain,feedyourstarteracoupleoftimeswithallwhole-wheatflourbeforemakingbreadandyou’vegotit.Notethatthefermentationwillbemoreactive,sokeepeverythingabitcoolerand/orfeedwithareducedpercentageofseedstarter(about5percentlesstostart)toaccommodate.
WHOLE-WHEATBREAD
Sincethewhole-wheatflourabsorbsmorewaterthanwhite,thedoughbenefitsfromalongerrestingperiodaftertheinitialmix.Therestforthebasiccountrydoughis25to40minutes;40minutestoanhourisgoodforwholewheat.Some
bakersfavoranovernightrestforwholegrain—atechniqueworthexploringaslongasyouwaittoaddtheleavenuntilyoubegintogivethedoughturns.
Whole-wheatflourfermentsmoreactivelythanwhiteflour,sothisdoughusesslightlycoolerwatertoslowdownthefermentation.Youcanalsoadjustthepercentageofleavenfrom20percentto15percent,butrememberthatacompletebulkfermentationisstillessentialtoachievepropertensioninthedoughbeforeshaping.
Makes2loaves
INGREDIENT QUANTITY BAKER’SPERCENTAGE
Leaven 200grams 20
Water(75°F) 800grams 80
Whole-wheatFlour 700grams 70
All-purposeFlour 300grams 30
Salt 20grams 2
Preparetheleavenasdirectedinstep1oftheBasicCountryBreadrecipe(seepage45).Whentheleavenpassesthefloattest,youarereadytomixthewhole-wheatdough.
Pourthewarmwaterintoalargemixingbowl.Addtheleavenandstirtodisperse.Addthewhole-wheatflourandtheall-purposeflour.Usingyourhands,mixthoroughlyuntilnobitsofdryflourremain.Letthedoughrestinthebowlfor40to60minutes.
Followsteps5through9onpages54to58forfinishingthedoughandsteps1through7onpages65to68forbakingtheloaves.
VARIATIONSONWHOLE-WHEATBREAD
FlaxandSunflowerThiswasanotherbreadwefirstmadeatBourdon’s—aclassiccombinationfoundinGermanwhole-grainbaking.Ifirsttastedthecombinationinsomecornchipsandwasinstantlyhooked.Theflaxseedsaddamoist,supplequalitytothecrumb,andthebreadkeepsexceptionallywell.Aftertheloafisshaped,itisrolledinsunflowerseeds,whichtoastwhilethebreadbakes.
Makes2loaves2cupsflaxseeds4cupsboilingwater2cupssunflowerseeds1recipeWhole-WheatBreaddough(page114)
Beforeyoumixthedough,puttheflaxseedsinabowlandpourtheboilingwateroverthem.Letcool.Theseedswillbecomegooey.
Preheattheovento400°F.Spread1cupofthesunflowerseedsevenlyonarimmedbakingsheet.Baketheseedsfor10minutes.Removefromtheovenandredistributetheseeds—thoseneartheouterrimwillbedarkerthanthoseinthemiddle.Continuetobaketheseedsuntilwelltoasted,about5minutes.Letcoolfor15minutes.
Aftergivingthedoughasecondturn,asinstep5onpage54,addtheflaxseedmixtureandtoastedsunflowerseedstothedoughandmoistenwithalittlewater.Useyourhandstocutandsqueezetheseedsintothedough.Resumethebulkfermentationasdirected.Followsteps6through8onpages56to58fortheinitialshaping,benchrest,andfinalshaping.
Aftercompletingthefinalshaping,puttheremaining1cupsunflowerseedsonaplateortray.Rollthetopofeachloafintheseeds.Iftheseedsdonotstick,moistenthesurfaceofthedoughbyrollingitoverawettowel.Transfereachloaftobasketsorbowlsforthefinalriseasdirectedinstep9onpage58.Bakeeachloaf,followingsteps1through7onpages65to68.
RaisinandCoriander
IlearnedofthecombinationofraisinsandfreshlygroundcorianderseedsagainfromBourdon,whoheldthatcorianderaidedindigestion.AtBerkshireMountainBakery,the“childrens,”asRichardcalledhiskids,oftenateawholewarmloafafterschoolwithbutter.Currantsmaybeusedinplaceoftheraisins.Thisbreadisanothersleeperhitwhenusedtomakegrilledcheesesandwiches.
Makes2loaves3cupsraisins1tablespooncorianderseeds1recipeWhole-WheatBreaddough(page114)
Puttheraisinsinabowlandaddwarmwatertocover.Soaktheraisinsfor30minutes.Drainandreturntothebowl.
Toastthecorianderseedsinasmallskilletovermedium-highheatforabout5minutes.Grindthecorianderseedsinamortarusingapestleorinaspicegrinder.Justbeforemixingthewhole-wheatdough,addthecoriandertotheraisinsandstirtocombine.
Aftergivingthedoughasecondturninstep5onpage54,addtheraisinmixturetothedoughandmoistenwithalittlewater.Useyourhandstocutandsqueezetheraisinsintothedough.Completethebulkfermentationasdirected.
Followsteps6through9onpages56to58forfinishingthedoughandsteps1through7onpages65to68forbakingtheloaves.
PainauGruyère
Oneofmyfavoritewhole-wheatbreadswemakeatTartineisinspiredbythepainauGruyèreIfirsttastedatthebakeryofFernandOnfroyontheRuedeSaintongeinParis.It’smadebyfoldingcoarselygratedGruyèrecheeseandfreshlygroundpepperintothedoughattheendstageofmixing.Therectangularloafisbakedinasmallcedarveneerboxshapedlikeabreadpan,calledapanibois,linedwithparchmentpaper.Cheesemeltsoutofthescoresontopandcaramelizeswiththecrust.ThetoastyagedGruyèreisachoicecomplementtothewholegrain.
Makes2loaves1recipeWhole-WheatBreaddough(page114)10ouncescaveagedGruyèrecheese,gratedOliveoilforbrushing
Mixthewhole-wheatdoughasdirected.Aftertheflourisincorporated,addthegratedcheeseandmixthoroughlywithyourhands.Letthedoughrestinthebowlfor40to60minutes.
Followsteps5through8onpages54to58forfinishingthedough.Instep8,shapethedoughasdirected.Brushtwoloafpanswitholiveoil.Transferthedoughtothepansandletthedoughrisefor2to3hoursbeforebaking.Bakeeachloaf,followingsteps1through7onpages65to68.
COUNTRYRYE
Ryeflourhasadistinctsweetgrainflavorthatdevelopswhenthedoughisfermentedwithnaturalleaven.Forsomeryebreads,suchastraditionalGermanryes,anintenselysourflavorispreferredandisachievedbyalongfermentation.
Forthecountryryeloaveshere,Iusejustenoughryeflourtoimpartadistinctryeflavorandsweetness,whilekeepingsournesstoaminimum.Thewhole-ryeflouraddsaslightgraycastanddistincttendernesstothecrumb.
Whenusingryeincombinationwithwheatflour,youcanvarytheportionofryetosuityourtaste:asyouincreasethepercentageofryeflourtowheat,theloaveswillbecomemoredenseduetothelackofgluteninrye.
Useamedium-finegrindofwhole-ryeflourasopposedtoacoarsepumpernickelrye,whichwillyieldaverydifferentresult.
Makes2loaves
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY BAKER’SPERCENTAGE
Leaven 200grams 20
Water(75°F) 800grams 80
Whole-ryeFlour(medium-fine) 170grams 17
WhiteBreadFlour 830grams 83
Salt 20grams 2
Preparetheleavenasdirectedinstep1oftheBasicCountryBreadrecipe(page45).Whentheleavenpassesthefloattest,youarereadytomixthedough.
Pourthewarmwaterintoalargemixingbowl.Addtheleavenandstirtodisperse.Addtheryeflourandbreadflour.Usingyourhands,mixthoroughlyuntilnobitsofdryflourremain.Letthedoughrestinthebowlfor40to60minutes.
Addthesalt,andfollowsteps5through9onpages54to58forfinishingthedoughandsteps1through7onpages65to68forbakingtheloaves.
CHAPTER3
BaguettesandEnrichedBreads
MAKINGBREADWITHNATURALLEAVENWASTHERULEFORFrenchbakersupuntilacenturyago.Beforetheintroductionofbaker’syeastasweknowittoday,bakersintheeighteenthandnineteenthcenturiesusedbrewer’syeast,aby-productofbeerproduction,tolightentheirloavesincombinationwiththenaturalleaven.Inthelatterpartofthenineteenthcentury,baker’syeastwasdevelopedandbakersstartedtoemployit.Atfirst,bakersadoptedtheinnovationcautiously.Theymixedflourandwatertogetherwithasmallamountofyeastandletitriseforafewhours,justastheyhadbeendoingtomaketheirnaturalleaven.
Thisprefermentedbatterlikeleavencametobeknownasa“poolish”(oftenattributedtoPolishorigin)andwasusedincombinationwithnaturalleaven.Intheseearlydaysofyeast,evenwhenthepoolishwasusedalonetoleaven,thebulkrisewaslengthy,andfinalriseremainedlongandslow.Theresultswereoutstanding:themeasuredadditionofcommercialyeasttothedoughmadebreadthatwaslighterthanever,andtheproperuseofnaturalleavenwithlongbulkrisingtimesensuredthatthebreadhadgoodflavorandexceptionalkeepingqualities.Theoverlaplastedafewdecades.RaymondCalvel,aFrenchbakerwhocameofageintheearlytwentiethcentury(andbecameknownasarenownedandsomewhatidiosyncraticauthorityonFrenchbread),referredtothesedecadesas“thegoldenageofFrenchbread.”Naturalleavenandcommercialyeastwereusedincombinationorexclusiveandapart.Eitherway,bakersatthetimeunderstoodandrespectedthetraditionofgentlemixingandlong,slowrisingtimesatallstagestodevelopflavorandpreservetheintegrityofthecraft.
Thegoldenagewasshort-lived.Naturalleavensrequiremoreworktomaintainconsistentlyinalarge-scalebakery,andbakersabandonedtheage-oldpracticeinfavorofthemoreconvenientcommercialyeast.Asbakersaddedmoreyeasttotheirdough,theyfoundtheycouldinflatetheirdoughquicklyandomitthetime-consumingbulkfermentation.Thismadetheirbakeryproductionmoreefficient,butthequalityofthebreadwasradicallydegraded.Bakerswereaeratingthedoughinsteadoffermentingit,sacrificingflavorandalteringtheverynatureofFrenchbread—thesoulofthebreadhadgonefromit.
Breadthatwasoncereveredaroundtheworldnowgainedthereputationforstalingwithinhours.Consumersbalked.AlthoughbreadwasstillconsideredthestapleoftheFrenchdiet,historiansnotethatbreadconsumptioninFrancesharplydeclinedafterthe1940s.Asbakersadoptedyeast,theystoppedteachingtheirapprenticeshowtobakewithnaturalleaven,andthecollectiveknowledgeofhowtouseitwasalmostlost.
Sincethedemiseofthegoldenage,dogmaandsuperstitionhavekepttheuseofyeastandnaturalleavenmostlyapart.Proponentssplitintodistinctlyopposingcamps.Forthebakerswhoheldontotradition,yeastbecametheenemy.Blameforthedeclineofthestaffoflifefellheavyonthetinymicrobe.IknewofaFrenchbakerwhoturnedaclassofschoolchildrenawayfromtouringhisboulangeriebecausehethoughtthatyeast,hitchingarideonthe
unsuspectingchildren,mightinvadehisbakeshop.Hisconcernswereunfoundedsincetheacidifiedenvironmentofanaturalleavenisnotamenabletocommercialyeast,posinglittledangerofcontamination.
TheartisanbreadrevivalthattookholdintheUnitedStatesinthelate1980shadstartedinFranceadecadeearlier.Manybakeriesproudlyannouncedthattheirbreadwasmadewithoutyeast.Naturallyleavenedbread,aulevainnaturel,wasreclaimingitseminencefromthecenturybefore.Somebakers,especiallyinParisandalsoinahandfulofothercities,wererediscoveringthelevaindepâtemethod,whichharmoniouslycombinednaturalleavenandyeasttomakeahighlyregardedstyleofbread.
AtTartine,IusethepoolishasayeastedliquidleavenincombinationwithournaturalleavenindoughswhenIwanttoachievealightertexture,alesspronouncedacidity,andathinnercrust.ImixthepoolishseparatefromthedoughandusetheamountthatyieldstheresultsIwant.Thebulkfermentationandfinalrisingtimesremainsubstantialandcanbevariedtosuittheneedsoftheday.
BAGUETTES
Justasthecountryloafwasavisionworkedtowardforyears,myidealbaguetteexistedlongbeforeitwasmadebyme.I’msureithasbeenconsistentlymadesomewheresincethebirthoftheFrenchbaguetteintheearlytwentiethcentury,butIhadnotfoundit.Thisbaguettemighthavebeeneasiesttofindintheearly1900s,whencommercialyeastwasproliferating,andbakerswereusingitjudiciously.
IwasconfidentIcouldbringthisearlybaguettetoourtableatTartinebyusingnaturalleavenincombinationwithcommercialyeast.Ifirstmadeabaguetteusingthebasiccountrydough.Thebreadwasadelicious,fiercelycrustyversionofthecountryloafstretchedintoabaguetteshape.Thoughworthmaking,itwasnotthebaguetteIwasaimingfor.Iwantedamoresubtleflavorthanthatofthecountryloafandathin,crispcrust.
Afterafewmonthsoftesting,IgotthebaguetteIwantedbydoublingtheyoungleavenpercentages,addingalargeportionofpoolish,changingtheblendofflours,andextendingthefinalrise.Ipreparedthepoolishinthemannerofourleavenandtrieddifferentpercentages.Thepoolishcontributesflavorinthesamewaythatthenaturalleavendoes,butwithoutthebacterialfermentation,sothereisnoneofthesourflavorfromaceticandlacticacids.Poolishalsoincreasestheextensibilityofthedough,helpingtoformanopen,irregularcrumbandathin,crispcrust.
Fromthefirsttest,IknewthatIwouldnotretardtherisingovernight,asityieldedathickercrustandstrongerflavorthanIwanted.WhenIusedthesameratioof20percentleavenasinthebasiccountrydoughbutbakedthebaguettesthesameday,theresultsweregood.Yettheflavorgainedfromtheleavenwastoosubtle—almostbland—soIincreasedtheamount.EventhoughIwantedtobakethebaguettesthesameday,Ihadtomixthebaguettedoughusingcoolerwater(75°F)thanforthebasiccountrydough,astheadditionofpoolishandmuchlargerpercentageofnaturalleavenincreasedthefermentationactivity.
Sincethebaguettedoughwouldnotberetardedovernight,thefermentationwouldnotbelengthyenoughtotenderizethegluten.Thus,Ichangedourregularmixtureofmostlybreadflour,addingalargeportionoflower-glutenall-purposeflour.Ialsotried5to10percentwhitespeltflour(asaportionofthe100percentflour)insometestversions,withexcellentresults.Speltflouraddsanextremeextensibility,asthegluteninspeltflourhasadifferentcharacterthanthatinall-purposeorbreadflour.Ultimately,Isettledonthemostlyall-purposeblendforthisrecipe.
Aftertheusual3to4hoursofbulkfermentation,thedoughisdividedandshaped.Thedoughissoftandsticky,soIuseamodifiedversionofthetechniqueforshapingthebasiccountrydough.Theshapedbaguettedoughisallowedtoriseforupto3hoursbeforebaking.
Therightbalanceofpoolish,theincreasedamountofyoungleaven,andthesofterflourblend—aftermanymonthsoftesting—yieldedabaguettefortheages.Bakedtoadeepgoldentone,thisbaguettehasthetoastyaromaoffreshlypoppedcorn.
Sincealongbaguettewon’tfitinacombocooker,Irecommendyoubakethebaguettesonarectangularbakingstoneandsaturatetheovenwithsteambeforeloading,continuingforthefirst10to15minutesofbaking(seepage134).Dependingonthesizeofyourbakingstone,youmayneedtoadjustthelengthoftheloavessothattheyfitonthestone.Inadditiontoapizzapeel,youwillwanttohaveahandpeelformovingtheshapeddoughontothepizzapeel.Anarrowrectangleofwoodorarigidcardboardflapfromaboxwillwork.Forscoringthebread,havereadyadouble-edgedrazorbladeinasplintholder(seestep2,page65).
Makes2or3baguettesPOOLISH
200gramsall-purposeflour200gramswater(75°F)
3gramsactivedryyeastLEAVEN
1tablespoonmaturestarter(seepage45)220gramsall-purposeflour220gramswater(80°F)Riceflourfordusting
BAGUETTES
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY BAKER’SPERCENTAGE
Leaven 400grams 40
Water(74°to76°F) 500grams 50
Poolish 400grams 40
All-purposeFlour 650grams 65
BreadFlour 350grams 35
Salt 24grams 2
Tomakethepoolish,inabowl,mixtheflour,water,andyeast.Letstandfor3to4hoursatawarmroomtemperature(75°to80°F)orovernightintherefrigerator.
Tomaketheleaven,placethematurestarterinabowl.Feedwiththeflourandthewater,followingstep1onpage47.
Thepoolishandtheleavenarereadywhentheypassthefloattest.Dropasmallamountofthepoolishandtheleavenintowater.Ifeithersinks,itisnotreadytouseandneedsmoretimetoferment.
Tomixthebaguettedough,measurethe400gramsofleavenandsetasidetheremaindertorefreshandmaintainasyourstarter.Pourthewarmwaterintoalargemixingbowl.Addthepoolishandtheleavenandstirtodisperse.Addtheall-purposeflourandthebreadflour.Usingyourhands,mixthoroughlyuntilnobitsofdryflourremain.Thebaguettedoughinitiallywillfeelalittlestifferthanthebasiccountrydough,butitwillsoftenduringbulkfermentation.Letthedoughrestfor25to40minutes.
Followstep4onpage52totransferthedoughtoaclearcontainerandbeginthebulkfermentationatatemperatureofabout75°F.Turnthedoughaboutevery40minutesasinstructedinstep5onpage54;addthesaltwiththefirstturn.
Whenthebulkfermentationiscomplete,followstep6onpage56todividethedoughintotwoorthreepieces,dependingonthesizeofyourbakingstone.Shapeeachpieceintoarectanglewithroundedcorners.Letrestontheworksurfacefor30minutes.
Drapealargekitchentoweloverabakingsheetorcuttingboardanddustwithriceflour.
Workingwithonedoughrectangleatatime,foldthethirdofthedoughclosesttoyouupandoverthemiddlethird.Holdingtheendsofthedough,stretchithorizontallysothatitdoublesinwidth.Foldthethirdofthedoughfarthestfromyouoverthemiddleoftheelongatedrectangleasifclosingtheflapofanenvelope.Pressonthisflaptodeveloptensioninthedough.Usingyourpalmsandfingerstogether,rollthedoughtowardyou;witheachsuccessiveroll,presswiththeouteredgeofyourpalmsandfingerstofurtherdeveloptensioninthedough.YoushouldendupwithacylinderofdoughshapedlikeaFrenchrollingpin.Placebothpalmsonthedoughcylinderandrollitbackandforth,stretchingthedoughtoelongatetheshapeandtapertheends,whilekeepinginmindthesizeofyourbakingstone.
Shapingbaguettedoughisdifficultbecausemuchmorehandlingisrequiredthanforothershapes.Withpracticeandpersistence,thispartoftheprocesswillbecomesecondnature.
Placetheloavesontheflouredtowelseam-sideupandseparatethemwithfoldsinthetowel.Bringthesidesofthetowelovertheloavestosupporttheouteredges.Letriseatwarmroomtemperature(70°to75°F)for21/2to3hours.
Placethebakingstoneonthemiddlerackoftheovenandpreheattheovento500°F.Whenusingabakingstone,thetrickistosaturatetheovenwithsteamwhenyoustartbaking.Thebestwaytogetasmuchsteamaspossibleintoahomeovenistoplacearimmedbakingsheetlinedwithwater-soakedkitchentowelsinthebottomoftheovenasitispreheating.Astheovenheats,themoistureinthetowelsproducessteam.Ideally,youwanttheoventobesteamingfor15minutesafteryouloadthebaguettestobake.Takecaretogetthebaguettesintotheovenquicklyandshutthedoor;themoresteamthatstaysin
theovenduringthefirstpartofbaking,thebettertheovenspring,orvolume,ofthefinishedloaves.Thesteamwillalsohelpdevelopathin,crispcrustwithaslightsheen.
Usingriceflour,dustapizzapeelanddusttheseamsideofthebaguettes.Holdingthetowel,flipeachloafontoahandpeelandthenslideontothepizzapeel.Placetheloavessidebysideonthepeelabout2inchesapart.Withadouble-edgedrazor,scoreeachloafdownthecenterwithaseriesofslightlyoverlappinglines.Makesureyourovenisfullysaturatedwithsteam;you’llnoticesteamescapingfromopeningsaroundtheoven.Opentheovendoor,slidethebaguettesontothebakingstone,andquicklyshutthedoortoretainasmuchsteamaspossible.Immediatelyreducetheoventemperatureto475°F.
Oncethebaguettesstarttocolor,afterabout15minutes,carefullyremovethepanwiththekitchentowels,whichshouldbedry.Continuetobaketheloavesuntiladeepgoldencolor,10to15minutes.Servewarmfromtheovenorletcoolonarack.
VARIATIONSONBAGUETTES
TorduArusticvariationonthebaguette,thetordu,meaning“twisted,”resemblesthegnarledtrunkofagrapevineandisrarelyfoundinbakeshopsintheUnitedStates.Theloavesofthe“awesomebaker”onthecoastofFrancenearBordeuxweremyintroductiontothetordu,whichremainsoneofthemostelegantshapesexpressedinbreadform.
Makes2or3loaves1recipeBaguettedough(page126)
Preparethebaguettedoughaccordingtotherecipe.Aftershapingthebaguettes,putthemontheflour-dustedtowelandletrestfor5minutes.
Holdingeachendofthedough,twistitinoppositedirectionsasifwringingoutatowel.Returntheloavestotheflouredtowelandletrisefor2to21/2hoursbeforebaking.
Donotscoretheloaves.Bakeasdirectedforthebaguettes.
Fendu
Thefendushape,alsocalledapistolet,isnotscoredpriortobakingandopensalongthecreasedseampreparedcarefullywithriceflourasisourcustom.Ipreferthelookofafinalloafthathasnotopenedperfectlyalongthecreaseand,instead,setsitsownexpressionduringthefinalturnintheoven.
Makes2or3loaves1recipeBaguettedough(page126)
Preparethebaguettedoughaccordingtotherecipe.Afterthebulkfermentationiscomplete,dividethedoughandletitrestasdirected.Then,workingwithonedoughrectangleatatime,foldthethirdofthedoughclosesttoyouupandoverthemiddlethird.Holdingtheendsofthedough,stretchitslightly.Foldtheright
thirdofthedoughoverthemiddleofthedough,andthenfoldtheleftthirdoverthemiddleandthepreviousfold.Next,foldthethirdofthedoughfarthestfromyouoverthemiddleasifclosingtheflapofanenvelope.Pressonthisflaptodeveloptensioninthedough.Usingyourpalmsandfingerstogether,rollthedoughtowardyou;witheachsuccessiveroll,presswiththeouteredgeofyourpalmsandfingerstofurtherdeveloptensioninthedough.Youshouldendupwithasquatovalofdoughwiththeseamfacingdown.
Usingriceflour,dusttheloaflengthwisedownthecenter.Pushthewoodenhandleofabenchknifeallthewaythroughthedoughuntilittouchestheworksurface.Againusingthebenchknife,fliptheloafontoaflour-dustedkitchentowelsothattheseamisfacingup.Letrisefor2to3hours.
Donotscoretheloaves.Bakeasdirectedforbaguettes.
Fougasse
AtraditionalsouthernFrenchflatbread,fougassecanbeflavoredwithherbs,olives,andlardons(friedbaconorporkbelly),andcuttoresemblealeaforladderjustbeforeslidingontothehearthtobake.Thedoughispressedintoarectangularshapeasforfocaccia,andabenchknifeisusedtomakeswift,decisivecutsinthedoughonthepeelbeforeit’scastontothehearthtobake.
Thevariationshownaboveisaplaindoughversionoffougasse.Ifyouwanttoflavorthebreadwithherbs,olives,orlardons,incorporatetheingredientsearlyinthebulkrise,afterthefirstturn,followingthedirectionsforthevariationsonBasicCountryBread(pages88to93).Thejust-bakedfougassecanbebrushedwitholiveoilandseasonedwithsaltandfreshordriedherbsafterit’spulledfromtheoventosuityourtaste.
Makes2or3loaves1recipeBaguettedough(page126)
Preparethebaguettedoughaccordingtotherecipe.Afterthebulkfermentationiscomplete,dividethedoughandletitrestasdirected.Then,workingwithonedoughrectangleatatime,foldthethirdofthedoughclosesttoyouupandoverthemiddlethird.Holdingtheendsofthedough,stretchitslightly.Foldtherightthirdofthedoughoverthemiddleofthedough,andthenfoldtheleftthirdoverthemiddleandthepreviousfold.Next,foldthethirdofthedoughfarthestfromyouoverthemiddleasifclosingtheflapofanenvelope.Pressonthisflaptodeveloptensioninthedough.Usingyourpalmsandfingerstogether,rollthedoughtowardyou;witheachsuccessiveroll,presswiththeouteredgeofyourpalmsandfingerstofurtherdeveloptensioninthedough.Youshouldendupwithaslightlyrectangularcylinderwiththeseamfacingdown.Usingabenchknife,fliptheloafontoaflour-dustedkitchentowelsothattheseamisfacingup.Pressoutthedoughuntilitisabout11/2inchesthick.Letrisefor2to3hours.
Transferthefougasseloavestoaflour-dustedpizzapeel.Usingthebenchknife,makeapatternofcutsinthedough,pushingtheknifeuntilittouchesthepeelandbeingcarefulnottocutthroughtheedgeofthedough.Stretchthecutareastocreateopenings.Bakeasdirectedforbaguettes.
EnglishMuffin
AsanyoneraisedonThomas’,myidealEnglishmuffinisagriddlecakewithatender,open-texturedcrumb—perfectforpoolingmeltingbutterandhomemadejam.
TheobviouschoicefortheopentextureIwantedwasthebasiccountrydough.Earlytestingachieveddecentresults.ButitwasclearIneededaslightlyfirmerdoughtowithstandcuttingitandtransferringittothegriddlewhilemaintainingthecharacteristicroundshape.Thebaguettedoughwasjustright—firmenoughtoholditsshapeandsuppleenoughtogiveanopen-textured,tendercrumb,withextraspringfromthepoolishtomakeanoveralllightermuffin.
Ialsowantedthetechniqueandproductionscheduletoworksothatthedoughwouldbereadytocookinthemorning,thenaturaltimeonewouldmakeEnglishmuffins.Ideally,youwouldbeabletomakethedoughthedaybeforeandstoreitintherefrigeratorovernightsothatitcouldbecookedanytimethenextmorning.Englishmuffinsaregreattoastedandcouldbemadeadayortwoahead,butthereisnothingquitelikeanEnglishmuffinfreshoffthegriddle.
ThekeytoachievingEnglishmuffinswithanopencrumbistokeepthedoughhandlinggentleandtoaminimum.Thedoughneedsasufficientbulkrisetodevelopflavorandpocketsofairthroughout.
Makes12to14Englishmuffins1recipeBaguettedough(page126)Mixofriceandall-purposewheatflourfordustingCornmeal(optional)1cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter
Preparethebaguettedoughaccordingtotherecipe.Allowthedoughtoundergobulkfermentationfor3to4hours.Duringthistime,givethedoughoneortwolightturns.
Placeakitchentowelonarimmedbakingsheetanddustwithriceflourmixture.Besuretoflourthetowelwell.Otherwise,themuffinscanstick,andiftheyareforcedlaterfromthetowel,theywillbemisshapenandwillnotriseevenlywhencooked.AlthoughtheuseofcornmealratherthanflourgivesEnglishmuffinstheirtrademarklook,ittendstoburnwhenthemuffinsarecookedonthegriddle.
Afterthebulkfermentationiscomplete,turnthedoughontothewell-flouredtowelandletrelaxfor10minutes.Dustthetopwithriceflourmixmixtureandpressthedoughfromthemiddleoutwarduntilitis3/4to1inchthick.Evennessismoreimportantthanexactthickness.Coverwithakitchentowelandplaceintherefrigeratortocompletetherisingovernight.
Removethedoughfromrefrigeratorabout30minutesbeforecookingthemuffins.Havereadyacast-ironskilletorgriddle,a3-inchroundcookiecutter,andaspatula.Meltthebutterinasmallsaucepanoverhighheat.Whenthebutterbeginstoboil,pouritthroughafine-meshstrainerintoaheatproofcup.Thebutterdoesnotneedtobeperfectlyclear;removingmostofthemilksolidsissufficienttopreventscorching.
Heattheskilletovermedium-lowheat.Addjustenoughoftheclarifiedbuttertocoatthebottomofthepan.Usingthecookiecutter,cutroundsfromthedoughasyouarereadytoplacetheminthepan.Carefullypickupeachroundandlayitinthepan.A12-inchskilletwillholdtwoorthreerounds.After2minutes,themuffinswillpuffnearly2incheshigh.Don’tworryiftheypuff
unevenly—theywillevenoutwhenturned.Whentheundersidesaregoldenbrown,usethespatulatoturnthemuffins.Pressthemlightlywiththespatulasothattheylieflat.Cookuntilthesecondsidesaregoldenbrown,2to3minutesmore.Thetopsandbottomsshouldbegoldenbrownandcrisp,andtheedgeslightandsoft.
Removethemuffinsfromtheskilletandservewarmorletcoolonarack.Wipetheskilletcleanandrepeattocooktheremainingmuffins.Ifyoulike,dustthefinishedmuffinswithcornmeal.
Toserve,splitthemuffinswithaforkandpullapart.Themuffinswillkeepatroomtemperatureinabreadboxorwrappedinwaxedpapertoretainmoisturefor2to3daysaslongasyoutoastthembeforeserving.Englishmuffinsfreezewellinafreezer-proofcontainer.Thawatroomtemperaturefor2hoursandtoasttorestore.
BRIOCHEANDCROISSANT
“Ilikebread,andIlikebutter—butIlikebreadwithbutterbest.”ThisquotefromSarahWeinerwaswrittenasanodetoherfavoritethings.
Sarahwassevenyearsoldwhenshedeclaredthis—aprecociouschild;thedaughterofafellowbakeranddearfriend,MarianaWeiner,shesummeduptheopinionofanation.
Thealchemyofbreadandbutter:withintheFrenchtradition,therearemasterfulwaysofcombiningthetwotoachieveoutsizedeffect.
Twonotabletechniquesareaddressedhere:briocheandcroissant.Bothbeginasbasicbreaddoughs.Forbriochedough,butterisincorporatedintoaleanbreaddoughtomakeasmoothandsilkyenricheddough.Croissantdough,withbutterenvelopedbetweenlayersofthebreaddough,isanexquisitetransformationofbreadandbutterintoadelicatelylayered,crispandflakypastry.
Traditionally,briochedoughwasmadewithnaturalleaven.Croissantdoughlikelyusedacombinationofnaturalleavenandyeast.Asinthebaguetterecipe,thisisavariationofatechniquedatingbackmorethanacentury,calledlevaindepâte.Thelackofbakersskilledinusingnaturalleavenledtoanalmostcompletelossofthistechniqueformakingenriched,sweetbreads.It’sashame,astheyoungleaventechniqueyieldsextraordinaryresults.
Thesavoryelementthatthecombinednaturalleavenandpoolishbringtothedoughcreatesaperfectbalancewithintherich,butterynatureofthesepastries.Thekeepingqualitiesofcroissantsandbriocheareimprovedbytheuseofleavenandpoolish;evenwhenafewdaysold,theyrestorewellinatoasteroven.
Thedoughforbothcroissantsandbriocheissimilartobaguettedough;milkreplacesthewater,andinthecaseofbrioche,eggsformthemainliquidportion.Eachrecipeusesacombinationofayoungleavenandpoolish.Sugarisaddedtobalancetheflavorwithsubtlesweetness;asmallamountofactivedryyeastensuresadequateovenspringandalighttexturefortheserichdoughs.
BRIOCHE
Briocheistheonlydoughinthisbookrequiringtheuseofanelectricmixer.Along,steadyamountofmixingisrequiredtofullyincorporatethebutter.Thequantityofbutteraddedtothedoughis45percentofthetotalweightoftheflour.Thisbriochehasmanyusessweetandsavory,andkeepswellfordays.
Thisrecipeyieldsnearly4poundsofbriochedough.Becauseoftheadditionofactivedryyeast,thedoughholdsupwelltofreezinginafreezer-proofcontainer.Ifyouareusingfrozendough,movetotherefrigeratorthenightbeforeyouplantouseitandletitthawovernight.Youwillneedmoldsforbakingthebrioche.AtTartine,weuseloafpans.Coffeecansworkwell,too.Whatevermoldsyouchoose,unlesstheyhaveanonsticksurface,brushwithmeltedbutteroroliveoiltopreventsticking.
Makes4to6briocheloavesPOOLISH
200gramsall-purposeflour200gramswater(75°F)3gramsactivedryyeast
LEAVEN
1tablespoonmaturestarter(seepage45)220gramsall-purposeflour220gramswater(80°F)
BRIOCHE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY BAKER’SPERCENTAGE
BreadFlour 1,000g(1kilogram) 100
Salt 25grams 2.5
Sugar 120grams 12
ActiveDryYeast 10grams 1
LargeEggs 500grams 50
WholeMilk 240grams 24
Leaven 300grams 30
Poolish 400grams 40
UnsaltedButter 450grams 45
EGGWASH
2largeeggyolks1teaspoonheavycream
Tomakethepoolish,inabowl,mixtheflour,water,andyeast.Letstandfor3to4hoursatawarmroomtemperature(75°to80°F)orovernightintherefrigerator.
Tomaketheleaven,placethematurestarterinabowl.Feedwiththeflourandthewater,followingstep1onpage47.
Thepoolishandtheleavenarereadywhentheypassthefloattest.Dropasmallamountofthepoolishandtheleavenintowater.Ifeithersinks,itisnotreadytouseandneedsmoretimetoferment.
About30minutesbeforeyouarereadytomixthebriochedough,removethebutterfromtherefrigeratorandletsoftenatroomtemperatureuntilitispliablebutstillcool.
Tomixthebriochedough,attachthedoughhooktoastandmixer.Placetheflour,salt,sugar,andyeastinthemixingbowl.Addtheeggs,milk,leaven,andpoolishandmixonlowspeeduntilcombined,3to5minutes;stopthemixerhalfwaythroughandscrapedownthesidesofthebowlwitharubberspatula.Letthedoughrestinthebowlfor15to20minutes.
Afterthedoughhasrested,mixitonmediumtohighspeeduntilitreleasesfromthesidesofthebowl,6to8minutes.Thisindicatesthatthedoughissufficientlydevelopedtobeginincorporatingthebutter.Makesurethebutterissoftandpliablebutstillcoolandnotmelted.
Cutthebutterinto1/2-inchpieces.Withthemixeronmediumspeed,addthepiecesofbutteroneatatimetothemiddleofthebowlwherethedoughhookmeetsthedough.Continueuntilthebutterisincorporated.Thedoughwillbesilkysmoothandhomogenous,withnovisiblebitsofbutter.
Transferthedoughtoabowlandsetinacoolplace(70°F)for2hoursforthebulkfermentation.Duringthefirsthour,givethedoughtwoturns,followingstep5onpage54.Duringthesecondhour,giveitoneturn.Thisisaveryforgivingdough.Ifyouwanttoshapethedoughthenextday,placethedoughinafreezer-proofcontainerafterthe2-hourbulkfermentationandfreezefor3to5hours,thentransfertotherefrigeratorandstorethereovernight.Ifyouareshapingthedoughandbakingthebriochethesameday,makesurethatthebulkfermentationoccursinacoolplace,orthebutterwillmeltoutofthedough,andthedoughwillfeelgreasy.
Justbeforeshapingthedough,coatthebriochemoldswithbutter.Useadoughspatulatopullthedoughfromthebowlontoanunflouredworksurface.Withabenchknife,cutthedoughintofourtosixequalpieces.Shapeeachpieceintoaloaffollowingtheinstructionsinstep6onpage56.
Placetheshapeddoughinthemoldsandletriseinadraft-freeplaceatawarmroomtemperature(75°F)for11/2to2hours.
Preheattheovento450°F.Tomaketheeggwash,inasmallbowl,stirtogethertheeggyolksand
cream.Brushthetopofeachloafwiththeeggwash.Bakeuntiltheloavesaregoldenbrown,35to40minutes.Unmoldandletcoolonawirerack.Theloavesshouldfeellightinthehandandhavethearomaofbrownedbutter.
OLIVEOILBRIOCHE
ThisversionofbriochecomesfromsouthernFrance,whereoliveoilwasoncemorereadilyavailablethanbutter.Whilebutterbriocheisarichdelicacy,oliveoilbriocheisitssun-bleachedcousin:stronglyflavoredandtiedtothelandofitsorigin.Flavoringwithorangeblossomwater,whilenotessential,istraditionalanddelicious.
Theassertivenessoftheoildependsonthevarietyyouchoose.FortheversionwemakeatTartine,weliketotastetheoliveoilinthefinishedbread,soweuseastrong-flavoredextra-virginoil.Thoughexceptional,theflavorisnotnearlyasdistinctfromthebutterbriocheasyoumightexpect.Oliveoilbriocheisafinesubstituteinanyrecipethatcallsforbrioche.
Thebriochedoughcanbebakedthesamedayorretardedintherefrigeratorovernight;anydoughthatyoudonotusecanbefrozenforuptoaweek.
Makes4to6briocheloavesBRIOCHE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY BAKER’SPERCENTAGE
Poolish 400grams 40
Leaven 300grams 30
BreadFlour 1,000grams(1kilogram)
100
Salt 25grams 2.5
ActiveDryYeast 15grams 1.5
LargeEggs 500grams 50
WholeMilk 240grams 24
Honey 160grams 16
50grams 5
OrangeBlossomWater
Extra-virginOliveOil
450grams 45
EGGWASH
2largeeggyolks1teaspoonheavycream
PreparethepoolishandleavenasdirectedintheBriocherecipe,pages144to149.
Attachthedoughhooktoastandmixer.Placetheflour,salt,andyeastinthemixingbowl.Addtheeggs,milk,leaven,poolish,honey,andorangeblossomwaterandmixonlowspeeduntilcombined,3to5minutes;stopthemixerhalfwaythroughandscrapedownthesidesofthebowlwitharubberspatula.Letthedoughrestinthebowlfor15to20minutes.
Afterthedoughhasrested,mixitonmediumtohighspeeduntilitreleasesfromthesidesofthebowl,6to8minutes.Thisindicatesthatthedoughissufficientlydevelopedtobeginincorporatingtheoliveoil.Withthemixeronmediumspeed,addtheoilinasteadystream,stoppingintermittentlytoallowthedoughtoincorporatetheoil.Afteralltheoilisincorporated,thedoughwillbesilkysmoothandhomogenous.
Transferthedoughtoabowlandsetinacoolplace(70°F)for2hoursforthebulkfermentation.Duringthefirsthour,givethedoughtwoturnsfollowingstep5onpage54.Duringthesecondhour,giveitoneturn.
Thisisaveryforgivingdough.Ifyouwanttoshapethedoughthenextday,placethedoughinafreezer-proofcontainerafterthe2-hourbulkfermentation,freezefor3to5hours,andthentransfertotherefrigeratorandstorethereovernight.
Justbeforeshapingthedough,coatthebriochemoldswithbutter.Useadoughspatulatopullthedoughfromthebowlontoanunflouredworksurface.Withabenchknife,cutthedoughintofourtosixequalpieces.Shapeeachpieceintoaloaffollowingtheinstructionsinstep6onpage56.
Placetheshapeddoughinthemoldsandletriseinadraft-freeplaceatawarmroomtemperature(75°F)for11/2to2hours.
Preheattheovento450°F.Tomaketheeggwash,inasmallbowl,stirtogethertheeggyolksand
cream.Brushthetopofeachloafwiththeeggwash.Bakeuntiltheloavesaregoldenbrown,35to40minutes.Unmoldandletcoolonawirerack.Theloavesshouldfeellightinthehandandhavethearomaofoliveoilandorangeblossoms.
VARIATIONSONBRIOCHE
BeignetsOurbeignets—briochedoughfriedquickly,bathedinlemonglaze,andthentossedwithmaple-glazedpecans—usecomponentsofotherpreparationsthatwealwayshaveonhandatTartine.Thefrittersareconvenienttomakeifyouarealreadypreparingbriochedough.Only200gramsofthedoughneedtobesetasideformakingthebeignets.
Makesabout12beignetsAll-purposeflourfordusting200gramsBriochedough(page144)MAPLEPECANS
2tablespoonsmaplesyrup2tablespoonscornsyrup2tablespoonsgranulatedsugar1/8teaspoonsalt2cupspecans
LEMONGLAZE
Gratedzestandjuiceof3lemons(about2/3cupjuice)1cupgranulatedsugar1/2cuppowderedsugarOliveorsaffloweroilfordeep-frying
Shapethebeignetsabout2hoursbeforeserving.Lightlyflourthedoughandtheworksurface.Rollthedoughintoacylinderabout1/2inchindiameter.Ifthedoughfeelsasifitwillnotstretchfurther,letitrestfor10minutesandcontinuerolling.Transferthedoughtoacuttingboardandsetinadraft-freeplaceorcoverwithakitchentowel.Letriseuntilthedoughlookssoftandinflated,1to2hours.
Meanwhile,tomakethemaplepecans,preheattheovento400°F.Linearimmedbakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Inabowl,stirtogetherthemaplesyrup,cornsyrup,granulatedsugar,andsalt.Addthepecansandtosstocoatwiththesyrupmixture.Spreadthepecansinanevenlayeronthebakingsheet.Bakethenutsuntilthesyrupglazebeginstobubbleandthenstirthenutseveryfewminutestodispersetheglaze.Thenutsaredonewhentheglazehasthickenedandthebubbleshaveslowed,about15minutes.Letcoolcompletelyonthepan.Thecoolednutsshouldbecrisp.Finelychopthenuts.
Tomakethelemonglaze,combinethelemonzestandjuiceandthegranulatedandpowderedsugarsinabowlandstirtocombine.
Pouroilintoaheavy,high-sidedpantoadepthof2to3inches.Heattheoilovermedium-highheatuntilitregisters375°Fonadeep-fryingthermometer.
Whendeep-frying,it’sbesttosetupyourpreparealikeanassemblylinesoyoucanworksafelyandefficiently.Setaracknearthestoveandunderitplacealayerortwoofpapertowels.Youalsoneedaslottedspoontoturnthebeignetsandremovethemfromtheoilafterfrying.Cutthedoughonthediagonalintopiecesabout2incheslongorasyoupreferandthenplacenearthestove.
Carefullyslipfourpiecesofdoughintothehotoilandfryuntilgoldenbrown,about1minute.Usingtheslottedspoon,turnthedoughandfryuntilbrownonthesecondside,about1minute.
Carefullyremovethebeignetsfromtheoilandtransfertothewirerack.Frytheremainingpiecesofdough,checkingthetemperatureoftheoilintermittently.Ifnecessary,allowacoupleofminutesfortheoiltoreturnto375°Finbetweenbatches.
Whenthebeignetsarecoolenoughtohandle,diptheminthelemonglazeandtheninthechoppedpecans,coatingthemevenly.Thepecansshouldsticktothebeignet,andtheglazewillhardenslightlyasthebeignetscontinuetocool.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.
BriocheLardon
ThissavorybriochewasinspiredbyoneofmanyextraordinarybitesI’veenjoyedfromAmaryllSchwertner’shandsatBoulette’sLarderinSanFrancisco’sFerryBuilding.Thebread,whichkeepswellforafewdays,isbesteatentoastedwithpeachorplumjam—or,asAmaryllservedit,withfigconserve.Splitandtoasted,thelardonbunholdspromiseofahandsomefriedeggsandwich.
Makes2loaves2poundsBriochedough(page144)8ouncesthick-cutsmokedbaconorpancetta,cutintobatons3/4cuphazelnuts,toastedandcoarselychopped
1smallbunchfreshthyme,stemsremovedGratedzestof1orange1teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted
Whenmakingthebriochedough,remove2poundsofthedoughfromthemixingbowlpriortobulkfermentation.
Inawidebowl,stirtogetherthebacon,hazelnuts,thymeleaves,orangezest,andpepper.Addtothebriochedoughand,usingyourhands,mixtocombine.
Letriseatawarmroomtemperature(about80°F)forabout2hours.Givethedoughoneturnperhour,followingstep5onpage54.Brushtheinsideoffourtallringmolds,each4inchesindiameter,withmeltedbutter.Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Placethepreparedmoldsonthebakingsheet.Turnthedoughoutontoaworksurfaceanddivideintofourpieces.Formeachpieceintoaroundandplaceinaringmold.
Letriseatawarmroomtemperature(about80°F)for11/2to2hours.Preheattheovento425°F.Bakethebriocheuntilgoldenbrown,35to40
minutes.Unmoldontoawirerack.Servefreshortoasted.
Kugelhopf
AtraditionalAlsatianbriochebread,kugelhopfismadetocelebrateanynumberofdifferentoccasions.Akugelhopfmold,unglazedontheexterior,isgenerallyusedtobakethebread.Ametalbundtpan—whilestrayingfromtradition—worksperfectlywell.Youcanservethekugelhopffreshor,asisthecustom,adayortwoafteritisbaked.
Makes1kugelhopf2poundsBriochedough(page144)1/2cupdriedcurrants
1cupSchnapps,marc,orgrappa1cupdriedapricots,chopped3/4cuppistachios,toasted1/2teaspoongroundcardamom
1tablespoonorangeblossomwater1/2cupunsaltedbutter,melted
12almonds1/4cupconfectioners’sugar
Whenmakingthebriochedough,remove2poundsofthedoughfromthemixingbowlpriortobulkfermentation.
Adayahead,placethecurrantsinasmallbowlandpourintheliquor.Letsoakovernight.Drain,reservingthesoakingliquor.
Inawidebowl,stirtogetherthesoakedcurrants,apricots,pistachios,cardamom,andorangeblossomwater.Addtothebriochedoughand,usingyourhands,mixtocombine.
Letriseatawarmroomtemperature(about80°F)forabout2hours.Givethedoughoneturnperhour,followingstep5onpage54.Turnthedoughoutontoaworksurfaceandshapeintoaround.Brushakugelhopfmoldwithsomeofthemeltedbutterandplaceanalmondineachtopcreasearoundthecrown.Makeaholeinthecenterofthedoughandplacethedough,seam-sideup,inthemold.
Letriseatawarmroomtemperature(about80°F)for11/2to2hours.Preheattheovento425°F.Bakethekugelhopfuntilgoldenbrown,35to
40minutes.Unmoldontoawirerackandbrushwithmeltedbutterwhilewarm.Dustwithsomeoftheconfectioner’ssugarandbrushwiththereservedsoakingliquor.Ifservingthebreadadayortwolater,wrapthecooledkugelhopfandstoreatroomtemperature.Dustwithconfectioner’ssugaragainbeforeserving.
CROISSANTS
Togetfromthebaguettedoughtocroissantdough,thisrecipestartswithvirtuallythesameleandoughbutsubstitutesmilkforthewaterandaddsasmallamountofsugar.Thebutterisenvelopedinthedoughafterthedoughismixed,usingalaminationprocessthatcreatesalternatinglayersofdoughandbutter.Theprocesssoundsmorecomplicatedthanitis—butitresultsinthecrisp,light,multilayeredtextureyouexpectintheclassiccroissant.Awell-madecroissantwillgiveonepause,amomenttoreflectonthepétitengineeringmarvelsetbeforeyou.
Makes14to16croissantsPOOLISH
200gramsall-purposeflour200gramswater(75°F)3gramsactivedryyeast
LEAVEN
1tablespoonmaturestarter(page45)220gramsall-purposeflour
220gramswater(80°F)CROISSANTS
INGREDIENT QUANTITY BAKER’SPERCENTAGE
WholeMilk 450grams 45
Leaven 300grams 30
Poolish 400grams 40
BreadFlour 1,000grams(1kilogram)
100
Salt 28grams 2.8
Sugar 85grams 8.5
ActiveDryYeast 10grams 1
ColdUnsaltedButter
400grams 40
1/2cupall-purposeflourEGGWASH
2largeeggyolks1teaspoonheavycream
Tomakethepoolish,inabowl,mixtheflour,water,andyeast.Letstandfor3to4hoursatawarmroomtemperature(75°to80°F)orovernightintherefrigerator.
Tomaketheleaven,placethematurestarterinabowl.Feedwiththeflourandthewater,followingstep1onpage47.
Thepoolishandtheleavenarereadywhentheypassthefloattest.Dropasmallamountofthepoolishandtheleavenintowater.Ifeithersinks,itisnotreadytouseandneedsmoretimetoferment.
Beforemixingthecroissantdough,removethemilkfromtherefrigeratorandletitwarmtoroomtemperature.
Pourthemilkintoalargemixingbowl.Addtheleavenandthepoolishandstirtodisperse.Addtheflour,salt,sugar,andyeast.Usingyourhands,mixthoroughlyuntilnobitsofdryflourremain.Letthedoughrestfor25to40minutes.
Followstep4onpage52totransferthedoughtoaclearcontainerandletthedoughundergobulkfermentationatawarmroomtemperature(75°to80°F)for11/2hours.Givethedoughoneturnever30minutes,followingstep5onpage54.
Transferthedoughtoaplasticbag,presstoflattenitintoarectangle,andchillitintherefrigeratorfor2to3hours.
Havereadyarollingpinandthe1/2cupall-purposeflour.Preparethebutterjustbeforeyouarereadytolaminatethedoughandbutter.Cutthecoldbutterintocubes.Poundthecubeswiththerollingpinuntiltheycometogetherintoasinglecohesivemass.Incorporatethe1/2cupflourintothebutterasyoupound.Youwantthebuttermasstobethesameconsistencyasthedough.Thegoalistomakethestiff,coldbutterpliablewithoutwarmingit.
Moldthebutterintoarectanglemeasuringroughly8by12inches,placeonasheetofparchmentpaper,andkeepcool.Takecarenottoletthebutterblockchilltothepointthatitisnolongerpliable;otherwiseyouwillhavetopounditagain.Youwantthebuttertomaintainitsspreadablequality,asitwillberolledoutthinnerandthinner,sandwichedbetweenlayersofthedough.
Whenyouarereadytobeginlamination,placethedoughonastableworksurfacedustedwithflourandrollouttoarectanglemeasuringroughly12by20inches.Arrangetherectanglesothatitishorizontal.Workingquickly,placethebutterblockinthecenterofthedough.Foldtherightandleftportionsofthe
doughoverthebutterasifyouarefoldingaletter.Immediatelyturnthedough90degreesandrollitagainintoarectangleabout12by20inches.Dotheletterfoldagain,takingcaretokeeptheedgesoftherectangleevenandunbroken.Thisisyourfirst“turn.”
Wrapthedoughinparchmentpaperandrefrigeratefor1hourtoallowthedoughtorelaxbeforegivingitthesecondturn.Ifyourestthedoughtoolongintherefrigerator,thebutterwillharden.Ifthathappens,removethedoughandlet
itwarmupfor15minutesbeforegivingthenextturn.Cleantheworksurfaceanddustwithflour.Setthedoughonthefloured
surfaceandrollouttoa12-by-20-inchrectangle.Againarrangetherectanglesothatitishorizontalandfoldthedoughasiffoldingaletter,keepingtheedgeseven.Thisisyoursecondturn.Refrigeratethedoughfor1hourtoallowittorelaxwithoutlettingthebutterharden.
Repeattocompleteathirdturn.Youwillhavearectangleofdoughabout8by12inchesand2inchesthick.Thisiscalledablock.Wraptheblockinplasticwraporparchmentpaper,placeinthefreezer,andchillfor1to2hours.
Ifyouintendtofinishthecroissantsthenextmorning,leavetheblockinthefreezeruntiljustbeforeyouretireandthentransferittotherefrigerator.Thedoughwillbereadytorolloutandshapeinthemorning.Youcanstoretheblockinthefreezer,infreezer-proofwrap,forupto3days.Remembertotransfertheblocktotherefrigeratorthenightbeforeyouplantouseit.
Whenyouarereadytoshapethecroissants,linetwobakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.Rollthedoughintoarectangleapproximately18by24inchesandabout1/2inchthick.Cutitinhalftocreatetwolongrectangleseach9by24inches.Usingaknife,cuteachrectangleintosixtoeightequal-sizedtriangles.Rollupeachtriangle,beginningatthewidestside.Placethecroissantsonthepreparedsheets,spacingthematleast11/2inchesapart.Letriseatawarmroomtemperature(75°to80°F)forabout2hours.Thecroissantsarereadytobakewhentheyare50percentlargerthantheiroriginalsize.Theywillbefirmbutpuffedup.
Youcanalsoretardthefinalrise.Thisworkswellifyoushapethecroissantsintheeveningandwanttobaketheminthemorning.Arrangethemontheparchment-linedbakingsheets.Wrapthesheetslooselywithplasticwraptokeepthedoughfromformingaskinandrefrigerate.
Preheattheovento425°F.Tomaketheeggwash,inasmallbowl,stirtogethertheeggyolksand
cream.Brushthetopofeachcroissantwiththeeggwash.Bakeuntilthecroissantsaredeepgoldenbrown,crisp,andflaky,about30minutes.Servewarmorletcoolonthepan.Ifnecessary,reheattoserve.
CHAPTER4
Days-OldBread
LIZ,ERIC,NATE,ANDIALLFOUNDOURWAYtobakingthroughthesavorykitchen,asdidMelissaRoberts,whohasmanagedtheTartinepastrykitchenforyears.
Breadisourstaple.Weeatithotfromtheoven,snackonitwhilewemakedinner,andserveitatthetable.Wetoastitforbreakfastandmakesandwichesforlunch.Thelargeloavesareofteneatenoverafewdays.
Ineveryplacebreadisastaple,resourcefulcookshavefoundwaystoincorporateitintoameal,wastingnothing.Inthisrichtradition,therearevastlymoreusesforstalebreadthanhotsandwichesandtoast.
Thethirty-plusrecipesinthischapteraresomeofourfavoritewaystomakeamealfromourdays-oldbread.Allofthebreadsweusehereareinthebookforyoutomake.Thatsaid,youcanuseanybreadyoulikeforthesepreparations.ThelistbeganwiththingsIhadeatenovertheyears,whichhadbeenidealizedinmemory.Manyareclassicrecipesweusedasastartingpointandmadetosuitourtastes.
Onerecipedaily:eachmorning,wediscussedthefoodwe’dmake.WhileLoriorNatemixedthedough,Iwenttothemarket.Midwaythroughthebreadshift,Ericbrokeawaytoprepandcooksometestplatesfortasting.Aftertheday’sbreadwaspre-shapedandduringthebenchrest,weconsideredhowwewantedtopresentthedishforthebook.Testplateswereeatenfordinner.Ifweweren’tsatisfiedwithwhatwegot—wemadeitoveragainthenextday.
Longsummerdaysprovidedeveninglightwhilewecookedandphotographedthefinaldish.Afterwards,wefinishedshapingtheday’sbread,fedthestarters,andshutoffthelights.
Thereisnoendtotheusesofoldbread,andnewideaskeptcoming.WhenwemadetheTroubleAffogato(page277),afteranonstopseasononthisdailyschedule,itseemedafittingendtoourfeast.
Theserecipesareastartingpoint.
FRESHFAVAPANZANELLA
Openabottleofwineandinviteyourfriendsintothekitchenearlytohelpshellthebeans.Afterthebeansareprepared,therestofthissimple,flavorfulsaladcomestogetherquickly.
Theamountofvinaigrettemayseemexcessive,butitisusedtodressboththecroutonsandthevegetables.Panzanellatraditionallycallsforstalebreadsoakedaheadoftimeinwater,presseddry,andthentossedanddressedwiththeotheringredients.Instead,weuseourfriedbreadcroutons.Oncethecroutonsaredressed,theexteriorsoftensslightly,leavingthecontrastinginteriorcrunchintact.
Serves4to61redonion,cutintoslices1/4inchthick1/2cupredwinevinegar
4poundsfavabeans,shelled(yieldsabout4cups)Croutons(page193),madefrom4slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread1bunchmint,stemsremovedLEMONVINAIGRETTE
Gratedzestandjuiceof2lemons1teaspoonsugar1cupoliveoil1/4teaspoonsalt
Placetheonionslicesinabowlandpourthevinegarovertheslices.Addjustenoughwatertocovertheslicescompletely.Setasidefor30minutes.Theonionswillsoftenslightlyandtakeonabrightpinkhue.
Meanwhile,bringapotofwatertoaboil.Fillabowlwithicewaterandplaceitnearthestove.Addthefavabeanstotheboilingwaterandcookfor1minute.Drainandtransfertotheicewatertocool.Peeltheopaqueouterlayerfromeachbean.
Inaservingbowl,combinethefavabeans,croutons,andmintleaves.Removetheonionsfromthevinegarandaddtothebowl.
Tomakethevinaigrette,inasmallbowl,stirtogetherthelemonzestandjuice,sugar,andoliveoil.Seasontotastewiththesalt,addingitapinchatatime.Pourthevinaigretteoverthesaladandtoss.Letstandfor1minutebeforeserving.
TOMATOPANZANELLA
Tomatoeswithbread,artichokesroastedinoliveoil,cucumbers,andshavedParmesancombinetomakealatesummerstaple.Absorbedbythecroutons,thetomatovinaigretteisthehiddenstarofthisquicksalad.Thetomatoseedscarrytheflavorofthefruitandaddbodytothedressing.
Serves4to6ROASTEDARTICHOKECROUTONS
Redwinevinegarorsherryvinegar2poundsbabyartichokes6tablespoonsoliveoilSalt4thickslicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),tornintolargepieces4ouncesfreshParmesancheese
TOMATOVINAIGRETTE
4ripeheirloomtomatoes1/2redonion,finelydiced3tablespoonsredwinevinegarorsherryvinegar1/4teaspoonsalt1cupoliveoil1Englishcucumber1bunchbasil,stemsremoved
Preheattheovento400°F.Fillalargebowlwithwaterandaddageneroussplashofvinegar.Removethetoughouterleavesfromeachartichokeuntilyoureachthetenderleavessurroundingtheheart.Cuttheartichokeinhalflengthwiseandplacethehalvesintheacidulatedwater.
Draintheartichokes,placeinabowl,andtosswith3tablespoonsoftheoliveoilandapinchofsalt.Arrangetheartichokehalvescut-sidedowninalargeskillet.Inthesamebowl,tossthebreadpieceswiththeremaining3tablespoonsoliveoilandapinchofsalt.Placethebreadontopoftheartichokes,gratethecheese
overall,andputthepanintheoven.Roastuntiltheartichokesarecrispyontheoutsideandtenderontheinsideandthebreadisadeepgoldenbrown,15to20minutes.
Meanwhile,tomakethevinaigrette,cuteachtomatoinhalfcrosswise.Holdingeachhalfoverasmallbowl,gentlysqueezeit(asifjuicinganorange)toreleasetheseeds.Reservethetomatoes.Addtheonion,vinegar,andsalttotheseeds,andstirtocombine.Stirintheoliveoil.
Cutthereservedtomatohalvesinto1-inchchunks.Peelthecucumber.Usingamandolineorvegetablepeeler,cutthecucumberlengthwiseintothinstrips.
Inaservingbowl,combinetheartichokes,croutons,tomatoes,cucumber,andbasil.Addthevinaigretteandtoss.Letstandfor3to5minutesbeforeserving.
ESCALIVADA
Anumberofclassicdishesinspiredthisvariationofbreadsalad.Afteramorningatthemarket,IhadonhandtherightmixofProvençalvegetablesformakingaratatouille.Itwasalatesummerday,andtheweathercalledforgrilling.Althoughbagnacauda,awarmsauceofgarlic,oil,andanchoviesseemedtheidealaccompaniment,cooleranchoïadeheldgreaterappeal.EricandIgrilledthevegetablesoverhotcoalsanddressedthemwiththeanchoïade.Ilaterreadthat,intheCatalantradition,thispreparationiscalledescalivada,awordthatreferstocookingthevegetablesoverhotcoals.Theversatileanchoïadeworkswellasasauceformeatorfishandalsoeatenwithfreshcheesesuchasricotta.
Serves4to61largeRosaBiancaorglobeeggplant,cutlengthwiseintoslices1/4inchthick
3zucchiniorothersummersquash,cutlengthwiseintoslices1/4inchthick
6Gypsypeppers,halvedandseeded
1redoryellowonion,cutintoslices1/4inchthick1/2cupoliveoil
4thickslicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45)orsimilarbreadANCHOÏADE
2clovesgarlic6oliveoil–packedanchovyfillets1/2cupwalnuts1/2teaspooncorianderseedsGratedzestandjuiceof1lemon1/2cupoliveoil1tablespoonfreshmarjoramleaves1teaspoonfreshthymeleaves1/2cupdriedordarkMissionfigs,choppedSaltandfreshlygroundpepper
2ripeheirloomtomatoes,cutinto1-inchchunks2cupsmixedfreshflat-leafparsleyandbasilleaves8to10freshfigs,halved(optional)
Prepareafireinacharcoalgrill.Brushtheeggplant,zucchini,peppers,andoniongenerouslywitholiveoil.Grillthevegetables,turningasneeded,untiltheysoftenandareslightlycharred,6to8minutes.Removetoabowl.Brushbreadsliceswitholiveoilandgrill,turningasneeded,untilcrispandslightlycharred,about4minutes.Removetothebowlandcuteachsliceinhalf.
Tomaketheanchoïade,placethegarlicandanchoviesinamortarand,usingapestle,poundintoapaste.Addthewalnutsandcorianderseedsandpoundtoincorporateintothepaste.Transfertoabowlandstirinthelemonzestandjuice,oliveoil,marjoram,thyme,anddriedfigs.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
Arrangethetomatoes,bread,parsley,andbasiltogetheronaplatterwiththegrilledvegetablesandfreshfigs(ifusing).Spoontheanchoïadeoverthetopandserve.
BAGNETVERT
ThistraditionalItaliancondiment(pronouncedBAHN-yet),isrelatedtoSpanishsalsaverde,Italianbagnacauda,andGreekskordalia.Anothersaucewithmanyuses,itistraditionallyeatenwithboiledmeatsandisdeliciouswithprettymuchanythingelse—inthiscase,marinatedanchovies.AtBarTartine,weserveBagnetVertwithBolinasblackcod,cilantroblossoms,andfenneltops.Theincorporationofbreadtransformsthesauceintosomethingmuchmoresubstantial,asublimecombinationofaromaticflavorsboundwithbread.
Serves4to6MARINATEDANCHOVIES
1tablespooncorianderseedsTwo2-ouncecansoliveoil–packedanchovyfillets,drainedGratedzestof1lemonRedpepperflakes1/2cupoliveoil1bunchcilantroblossomsforgarnish(optional)
BAGNETVERT
2cupstornday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45)1tablespoonredwineorsherryvinegar1/2cupwater2cupsfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves,roughlychopped1cupoliveoil1tablespooncapers4oliveoil–packedanchovyfillets1/2teaspoonsaltCilantroblossoms(optional)
Tomakethemarinatedanchovies,inasmallfryingpanovermediumheat,toastthecorianderseeds,stirringoccasionally,untilyousmellthetoastyaromaandtheseedsbegintosmokeslightly,about5minutes.Transfertheseedstoamortarandcoarselycrackwithapestle.Arrangetheanchovyfilletsonaplateand
sprinklewiththelemonzest,corianderseeds,andpepperflakes.Pourenougholiveoiloverthefilletstocoverthem.Letmarinatefor4hoursoruptoovernight.
Tomakethebagnetvert,placethebreadinabowlandtosswiththevinegarandwater.Letsoftenfor5to10minutes.Transferthebreadtoablenderandaddtheparsley,oliveoil,capers,anchovies,andsalt.Blendtoasmoothpuree.Addmorewater,aspoonfulatatime,ifthesauceistoothicktoblend.Tasteandseasonwithsaltifnecessary.
Spoonthebagnetvertonplatesandarrangetheanchoviesoverthetop.Garnishwiththecilantroblossoms,ifdesired.
CROUTONSANDBREADCRUMBS
AfewyearsafterstartingoutinPointReyes,worndownfromthelaborsofmakingbreadinthepreindustrialmannerIhadchosen,Ifoundashort,handwrittennoteslippedunderthebakeshopdoor.ItwasfromAliceWaters.ShehadwrittentocommendmyworkandconveyappreciationforwhatIwasdoing.IhadbeeninspiredmanytimesbyhersinceIfirstbeganworkinginthekitchen,andherwelcomenotegavemeamuch-neededsecondwindatapivotaltimeinmylife.
Sincethoseearlydays,Alicehasgenerouslyofferedheradviceandsupportmanytimes.Whileresearchingrecipesforthischapter,Ithoughttoaskifshecouldpassonanyofherfavoritewaysofusingdays-oldbread,hopingshemighttellmeaboutsomeobscureorantiquatedrecipeIhadneverheardof.
“Breadcrumbs.Wedon’twasteascrapofbreadattherestaurant,”shesaid,referringtoChezPanisse,whichshefoundedin1971.
Thesignificanceofheradvicetookadaytosinkin.Atfirst,Ifiguredshemighthavebeentoobusytosuggestsomethingmoreinteresting.ThenIbeganresearchingthetroveofrecipesthatcallfortoastedbreadcrumbs.Whetherusedasaprincipalingredientorasagarnishtoaddtexture,breadcrumbsarethemostpractical,versatilewaytoturnoldbreadintodinner.Ifyouhavestalebread,youhavethemakingsofasubstantialandthriftymeal.Iwentontofindmanypreparations,myfavoritesnow,inwhichbreadcrumbsareanessentialcomponent.
Aconsummatevisionary,Alicehassoeffectivelypromotedthesustainableconnectionofpeoplewiththeirfood—whereitcomesfrom,howit’sgrown,andhowit’sprepared—thatshehaschangedthewayweeat,shiftingusclosertothesourcesofourfood.Notsatisfiedtoreachonlythediningpublic,sheisworkinghardtoaffectchangeinthepublicschoolfoodsystem.Herdedicationtotheseprincipleshasneverwavered.
Breadcrumbs...Ishouldhaveknown.
CROUTONS
3slicesday-oldbread,each1inchthick,torninto11/2-inchchunks
2tablespoonsoliveoil
Salt1/2teaspoonherbesdeProvence(optional)
Tomakecroutons,preheattheovento400°F.Inabowl,tossthetornbreadwiththeoliveoilandapinchofsalt.Ifyouareusingtheherbs,addthemtoo.Spreadthebreadevenlyonabakingsheetandbakeuntilgoldenbrownandcrisp,about15minutes.Midwaythroughthebakingtime,redistributethecroutonsiftheyarecoloringunevenly.
BREADCRUMBS
Tomakebreadcrumbs,useyourhandsorarollingpintocrushthecroutonstothedesiredconsistency.Forasuperfinetexture,siftthecrumbsthroughasieve.Ifyoulike,adddriedherbsfriedinoliveoil.
AIOLIANDROUILLE
ThewordAioliderivesfromtwoSpanishwordsmeaningliterally“garlic-oil.”Themostelementalversionofthiscondimentismadebygrindinggarlicandsaltintoapaste.Moistenedwitholiveoilandlemon,itturnstoasauce.Tomakearicheremulsion,Iliketostartwithaneggyolk.Thickeningwithbreadisanancientcustomthataddsbodytothesauceandiswell-suitedforuseinsoups.
Rouilleisanaioliflavoredwithsweetredpeppers,turningthesaucefromgoldenyellowtodeepredrust.Usingthemortarandpestleistrulythemostefficientwaytomakethesesaucesquicklyandwiththeleastamountofmess;themortarissetonthetabletoserve.Bothsaucesareeatenwithseafood,meats,andvegetables,andtheyareusedtoflavororgarnishsoupsandbroths.
Makes1cupAIOLI
1clovegarlic,roughlychoppedGratedzestandjuiceof1lemon1/4teaspoonsalt1eggyolk1cupoliveoil1sliceday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45)
ROUILLE
1redbellpepper,peeled,roasted,andseeded1/2teaspoonredpepperflakes1recipeAioli
Tomaketheaioli,combinethegarlic,lemonzest,andsaltinamortarandpoundtoapastewithapestle.Addtheeggyolkand1/2teaspoonofthelemonjuice.Usingthepestle,vigorouslyandconsistentlystirthemixturewhileaddingtheoliveoil,dropbydrop.Afterhalfoftheoilisincorporated,thesauceshouldbecreamyandsmooth,thesignofastableemulsion.Continuingtostir,addtheremainingoilinaslow,thinstream.Themoreoiladded,thethickerthesaucewillbe.Useasmuchoftheremaininglemonjuiceasneededtoflavororthinthe
aioli.Transfertheaiolitoabowl.Placethebreadinthemortarwithaspoonfulofremaininglemonjuiceorwater.Usingthepestle,poundthebreadtoasmoothpaste.Addtheaioliandstirtocombine.Returntothebowlandserve.
Tomakerouille,combinetheroastedpepperandredpepperflakesinthemortarandpoundtoapastewiththepestle.Stirintotheaioliuntilsmooth.Serve.
PANCONTOMATE
Goodtoastwithtomato,extra-specialham,andhardagedcheeseisasummerfavoriteintapasbarsalloverSpain.Itdoesn’tgetmoresencillothanthis.Naturally,usethebest,veryripetomatoesavailableandlotsofoliveoiltofrythebreadproperly.
Serves1Oliveoil—yourbest1slicefreshorday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45)1soft,ripeheirloomtomato,cutinhalfcrosswise1thinslicedry-curedhamsuchasserrano1slicehardagedcheesesuchasManchego
Pour1/4inchofoliveoilintoasmallskilletandheatovermedium-highheat.Addthebreadandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandverycrisp,about3minutes.Turnandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandcrispontheotherside.TheroughsurfaceofthebreadformsanaturalMicroplane.Rubthecutsideofthetomatohalvesacrossonesideofthetoastedbreaduntilthepulpisshreddedandthejuicefillstheholesinthebreadwithtomatopuree.Topwiththehamandcheeseandserve.
LATESUMMERBRUSCHETTA
Thechoicecombinationofripetomatoandbasilwithgarlicontoastisfreshagaineachsummerwiththearrivalofthefirsttomatoesandbasiltipsoftheseason.Inspirationsetsinquicklyoncethebountyofsummermounts;goodflavorsfollow.
WestartherewithItaliantradition,addingflavorsfromMexicanstreetvendorsintheneighborhoodwhoseasonfreshfruitwithchile,lime,andsalt;shiftingtheprofileinawaywelike.IfyouaremakingtheEggplantandCharredPepperBruschetta(page204)alongwithoneoftheothers,startbypreparingtheeggplantsothatithastimetoroastandmarinate.Toastthebreadintheovenorfryinoliveoilonthestovetopinaskilletbeforetopping.
Makes6largebruschettapervariation6slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45)Oliveoil
Totoastthebreadintheoven,preheattheovento400°F.Arrangethebreadonabakingsheetandbrushwitholiveoilifdesired.Toastuntilgoldenbrown,10to15minutes.Alternatively,tofrythebread,pour1/4inchofoliveoilintoalargeskilletandheatovermedium-highheat.Addthebreadandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandverycrisp,about3minutes.Turnandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandcrisponthesecondside.
TOMATO,MELON,ANDCHILEBRUSCHETTALEMONVINAIGRETTE
Gratedzestandjuiceof2lemons1/2teaspoonsugar,plusmoreasneeded1cupoliveoilSalt
CHILESALT
4driedhotchiles1/2teaspoonsalt
3ripeheirloomtomatoes(about1pound),cutinto1/2-inchchunks
1ripemelon(about1pound),peeled,seeded,andcutinto1/2-inchchunks1/2cupfreshbasilleaves,someleftwholeandsometorn1/2cupfreshmintleaves,someleftwholeandsometorn6slicestoastedBasicCountryBread(page45)
Tomakethevinaigrette,inabowl,stirtogetherthelemonzestandjuice,1/2teaspoonsugar,andtheoliveoil.Seasonwithsugarandsalt.
Tomakethechilesalt,heatasmallskilletoverhighheat.Addthechilesandpressdownonthemwithaspatula.Theywilltoastquickly,inabout3minutes.Turnthechilesandpresswiththespatulatotoastonthesecondsideforabout3minutes.Transferthechilestoamortar;theywillbecomebrittleastheycool.Addthesaltandpoundwithapestleuntilyougetamixtureofpowderandflakes.
Inabowl,combinetomatoes,melon,basil,andmint.Stirinafewspoonfulsoflemonvinaigrette.Spoonthemixtureonthetoastedbread,sprinklewiththechilesalt,andserve.
SUMMERSQUASHANDPEABRUSCHETTA
4zucchiniandsummersquash(about2pounds)Salt1poundsugarsnappeas(about1cup)1/2ripemelon,peeled,seeded,andcutinto1/2-inchchunks1/2cupfreshmintleaves,someleftwholeandsometorn
LemonVinaigrette(facingpage)6slicestoastedBasicCountryBread(page45)6ouncesfreshParmesancheese
Usingamandolineorawidevegetablepeeler,cutthesquashlengthwiseintothinstrips.Putthestripsandapinchofsaltinabowlandtoss.Letstandfor5to10minutes.Freshsquashisbrittle,andthesaltwilldrawoutsomeofthemoistureandmakeitmorepliable.
Addthepeas,melon,andminttothesquashalongwithafewgenerousspoonfulsoflemonvinaigrettetodress.
Spoonthemixtureonthetoastedbread.Usingavegetablepeeler,shavetheParmesanoverthebruschetta.Serve.
EGGPLANTANDCHARREDPEPPERBRUSCHETTASHERRYVINAIGRETTE
1/2redonion1/2cupsherryvinegar1/2cupdriedcurrants2tablespoonssugar1/4teaspoonsalt1/2cupoliveoil
EGGPLANT
3smalleggplants(about1pound)OliveoilSalt1/2cupfreshbasilleaves,someleftwholeandsometorn
CHARREDPEPPERS
1tablespoonoliveoil12PadrónpeppersSalt6slicestoastedBasicCountryBread(page45)
Tomakethesherryvinaigrette,cuttheonionintopaper-thinslices.Placetheslicesinabowlandaddthevinegar,currants,sugar,andsalt.Stirtocombineandletstandfor5minutes.Theonionswillturnbrightpink.Add1/2cupoliveoil.
Topreparetheeggplant,preheattheovento400°F.Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaperorarimmednonstickliner.
Cuttheeggplantslengthwiseintoslices1/4inchthick.Generouslybrushbothsidesofeachslicewitholiveoilandarrangeonthepreparedsheetinasinglelayer.Sprinkleliberallywithsalt.Bakeuntiltheslicesareverysoft,about20minutes.Lettheeggplantslicescoolandthentransferthemtoashallowservingdish.Topwiththebasilleavesandpourthesherryvinaigretteovertheslices.Letmarinateforabout30minutesbeforeserving.
Charthepeppersrightbeforeserving,makingsurethekitcheniswellventilated.Placethe1tablespoonoilinaskilletandheatoverhighheat.Whentheoilbeginstosmoke,addthepeppersandcook,withoutmovingthem,for1minute.Shaketheskilletsothepeppersflipover,orturnthemwithaspatula.Cookonthesecondsidefor1minute.Seasonthepepperswithapinchofsaltandtransfertotheservingdishwiththeeggplant.
Spoontheeggplantandpeppersontothetoastedbread.Moistenwiththemarinadeandserve.
Raclette
ThetraditionofraclettebeganinSwitzerland’sValais,butitisalsopopularinFrance’sSavoyregion.LizandIfoundourselvesatmanymemorablelate-nightfeastsintheFrenchAlps,whereweworkedwithPatrickLePortathisBoulangerieSavoyarde.Thesefestivemeals,generouslypreparedbythebakers,oftenendedwiththefirstmorninglight.
Wesetahalfwheelofraclettecheesetoslowlymeltonaslabofstoneinfrontofanopenfire.Aspeciallymadetoolresemblingahoeisusedtoscrapethesoftenedcheeseandspreaditonbread.Racletteisthenameofboththetraditionandthecheese—raclermeaning“toscrape.”Thecheeseistraditionallyeatenwithbakedpotatoes,pickledvegetables,strongmustard,curedmeats,andcopiousvindeSavoie.
Foroutdooroccasions,doasSavoyardshepherdshavedoneforgenerations:buildacampfire,placeaclean,flatrockclosetotheflameandsetaportionofcheeseontopwiththecutsidefacingtheheat.Letthecheesemeltslowlyandspreaditontoastedbread.
Useabout6ouncesofcheeseperperson.
PICKLEDSARDINES
Freshsardinesareaseasonaltreat.Webuylotsofthemwhenthey’reavailable.Grilledandeatenwithdressedshavedfennelandaioli,theymakeafastandeasymeal.Topreservethefishforeatingovertheweek,wefilletandpicklethem.Freshpickledsardinesontoastwithcrushedavocadoisafavoritesnack.Tryfryingthebackbonesinoliveoiltomakeacrisp,deliciousgarnish.GreensfortheherbsaladweuseatTartinearegrownbyourfriendBrookeatLittleCityGardens,justafewdoorsfromthebakery.
Serves4to612freshsardines
1/2redonion,cutinto1/4inchstrips
Gratedzestandjuiceof3lemons1/2cupsugar
1tablespoonsalt1cupoliveoil
1orange,cutcrosswiseintoslices1/8inchthick1/4cupfreshmarjoramleaves,someleftwholeandsometornVINAIGRETTE
2tablespoonsoliveoil2teaspoonsChampagnevinegar1/2teaspoonfinelychoppedshallotSaltandfreshlygroundpepper
HERBSALAD
1cuparugula1/4cupfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves1/4cupfreshcilantroleavesandblossoms1/4cupfreshbasiltips1/4cupfreshchervilleaves1/4cupsmallfenneltops,roughlychopped1/4cupchoppedpurslane1/4cupsunflowerpetalsOliveoil3slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),eachabout1inchthickGarlicshoots,totaste
Filletthesardinesbymakinganincisionineachfishalongthelengthofthebellyallthewaytothetail.Removethegutsandrinsethefishunderrunningwater.Usingyourfingers,peelthefleshawayfromthebackboneatthetailend.Whenthebackboneisloose,pinchthetailandpullupandtowardthehead,
teasingthebonesfromtheflesh.Cutthefishdownthemiddletoseparateitintotwofillets,andcutaroundeachfillettocleanuptheedges.Reservethebonesifyouwanttofrythemlater.
Placetheonionslicesinabowl,addthelemonzestandjuice,andletstandforabout5minutes.Stirinthesugar,salt,andoliveoil.Layerhalfofthesardinefillets,orangeslices,andmarjoraminashallowdishandpourhalfofthelemon–oliveoilmixtureoverthetop.Repeatwiththeremainingsardinefillets,orangeslices,marjoram,andlemon–oliveoilmixture.Youcaneatthesardineswithinafewminutes,whenthelemonjuicehasbarelybegunto“cook”thefish.Thelongerthefilletsstandintheliquid,themorethoroughlytheypickle.Youcankeepthesardinescoveredintheliquidintherefrigeratorforupto1week.Theflavorsofthemarjoramandorangebecomestronger,andthefleshofthesardinesbecomesfirmerthelongertheyareleftintheliquid.
Tomakethevinaigrette,inasmallbowl,whisktogethertheoil,vinegar,andshallot.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.
Tomaketheherbsalad,inabowl,combinethearugula,parsley,cilantro,basil,chervil,fennel,purslane,andpetals.Addthevinaigretteandtosstocombine.
Pour1/4inchofoliveoilintoalargeskilletandheatovermedium-highheat.Addthebreadandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandverycrisp,about3minutes.Turnandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandcrisponthesecondside.
Heat1/2cupoliveoilinasmallskilletovermedium-highheat.Whentheoilishot,addthesardinebonestwoatatimeandfryuntilverycrispyandbrittle,about21/2minutes.Removefromtheoilandseasonwithsalt.
Servethesardinesonthefriedbreadandwiththeherbsalad.MashedripeavocadoandCrystalchilesaucearewelcomeadditions.
SARDINESANDFRESHGARBANZOHUMMUS
Tinnedsardinesontoastandcoldbeerisastapledinnereatenaloneafteralongshift.Here’sanotherversionforcompany.Freshgarbanzobeansareavailableonlyforashortseasonandareworthsearchingout.Driedgarbanzosareafinesubstitute.
Serves2,withleftoverhummusHUMMUS
2poundsfreshgarbanzobeans,shelled,or1pounddriedgarbanzos3clovesgarlic,ifusingfreshgarbanzos1teaspooncuminseeds,toasted,ifusingdriedgarbanzos3tablespoonssesametahini12freshmintleaves,ifusingfreshgarbanzosJuiceof1lemon1/2teaspoonsalt1cupoliveoilOliveoil2slicesfreshorday-oldWhole-WheatBread(page114)1hard-boiledeggOne3.75-ouncecanoliveoil–packedsardines1/2cupchoppedfreshcilantro
Tomakethehummus,ifusingfreshgarbanzos,bringapotofwatertoaboil.Fillabowlwithicewaterandplaceitnearthestove.Addthegarbanzosandgarlictotheboilingwaterandcookfor2minutes.Drainandtransfertotheicewatertocool,thendrainagain.Ifusingdriedgarbanzos,poundthecuminseedsinamortarwithapestletocrackthem.Combinethebeansandcumininasaucepanandaddwatertocover.Bringtoaboil,reducetheheattolow,andsimmer,partiallycovered,untilthebeansarecompletelysoft,21/2to3hours.Removefromtheheatanddrain.
Putthegarbanzos,garlic(ifusing),tahini,mint(ifusingfreshgarbanzos),lemonjuice,andinafoodprocessor.Processuntilsmooth.Withthemotoron,addoliveoilinasteadystreamuntilthehummushastheconsistencyyoulike.
Pour1/4inchofoliveoilintoaskilletandheatovermedium-highheat.Addthebreadandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandverycrisp,about3minutes.Turnandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandcrisponthesecondside.
Pressthehard-boiledeggthroughasieve.Spreadthehummusonthefriedbreadandtopwiththesardines.Garnishwiththesievedeggandchoppedcilantroandserve.
CRABSANDWICH
Inspiredbyoneofthegreatestsandwichesevercreated—thelobsterroll—thisisourWestCoastversion.WeuseDungenesscrab,nativetothePacificandavailablebeginninginautumnandlastingintospring.Dressedandservedonacrispygriddledcroissant,wegetadifferent,butequallydecadenttreat.
Serves412to16ouncesfreshDungenesscrabmeat,pickedoverforshellfragments1smallcucumber,peeled,seeded,andfinelychopped1bunchchervil,stemsremoved1bunchtarragon,stemsremovedGratedzestof1lemon2tablespoonsmayonnaise1teaspoonwhole-grainmustard1teaspoonpoppyseeds,lightlytoasted4Croissants(page160),splitandtoasted
Inabowl,combinethecrabmeat,cucumber,chervil,tarragon,andlemonzest.Insmallbowl,stirtogetherthemayonnaiseandmustard.Addtothecrabmeatmixturealongwiththepoppyseedsandturncarefullytocombine.Spoonthecrabsaladontothebottomhalfofeachcroissant.Coverwithtophalvesandserve.
BAYSHRIMPSANDWICH
PopularonthebrunchmenuatBarTartine,thissandwichisalessexpensivebutnolesstastyalternativetothecrabsandwich.
Serves41/2headLittleGemlettuce1/2lemon3/4to1poundcookedbayshrimp1/2cupfinelychoppedfennelbulb1/2cupchoppedfenneltops1/2cupfinelychoppedceleryhearts1/2cupfinelychoppedceleryleaves
2tablespoonsmayonnaise1tablespooncrèmefraîche2tablespoonstroutroe4Croissants(page160),splitandtoastedSalt
Cutthelettuceintoafinechiffonade.Usingamandoline,cutthelemonhalfintothinslices.Inabowl,combinethelettucechiffonade,lemon,shrimp,fennelbulbandtops,andceleryheartsandleaves.Inasmallbowl,stirtogetherthemayonnaiseandcrèmefraîche.Addtotheshrimpmixturealongwiththetroutroeandturncarefullytocombine.Spoontheshrimpsaladontothebottomhalfofeachcroissant.Seasonwithsalt.Coverwithcroissanttophalvesandserve.
KALECAESAR
IgnacioMattos,ourtalentedcheffriend,introducedustothepleasureofeatingwholeleavesofdressedrawkale.Here,weuseblackkale,alsocalledcavalonero,lacinato,Tuscankale,ordinosaurkale.Thestronggreenscarrythebolddressing,makingtheperfectwinterbreadsalad.Eatasmuchasyoulike—thisCaesarisahealthfulone.
Serves4to6CAESARDRESSING
2lemons3clovesgarlic6oliveoil–packedanchovyfillets1largeeggyolkSalt2cupsoliveoil2poundsblackkale,centerstemsremoved,andtornCroutons(page193),madefrom4slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread2/3cupgratedorshavedagedParmesancheese
Tomakethedressing,gratethezestfrom1lemon.Cutbothlemonsinhalf.Placethegarlic,anchovies,andlemonzestinamortarandpoundwithapestletomakeathickpaste.Addtheeggyolk,apinchofsalt,andasqueezeoflemonjuiceandstirthoroughlytocombine.Continuingtostir,pourin1/2cupoftheoildropbydrop.Themixtureshouldlooksmoothandcreamy,asignthatyouarebuildingastableemulsion.Continuingtostir,beginaddingtheoilinaslowstream.Thedressingshouldthicken.Periodicallystoppouringintheoilandaddasqueezeoflemon.Tastethedressingandaddmoresaltandlemonjuicetotaste.Addwater,asmallspoonfulatatime,stirringtothindressingtotheconsistencyofheavycream.
Inalargebowl,combinethekaleandcroutons.Pourthedressingoverthetopandtosstocoat.AddtheParmesan,tossagain,andserve.
TOMATOESPROVENÇAL
Thoughthisclassicisoftenrelegatedtobeingasidedish,themagnificentarrayofheirloomtomatoesweenjoyeverysummerchangestherulesandcallsforthisfavoritetotakeaprominentplaceonthetable.
Serves4to64medium-largeripeheirloomtomatoes(about2pounds),halvedcrosswiseOliveoilSaltBREADCRUMBS
2slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),eachabout1inchthick1tablespoonherbesdeProvenceGratedzestof1lemon3/4cupgratedagedParmesancheese3tablespoonsoliveoil
Preheattheovento475°F.Arrangethetomatoesonabakingsheet,cut-sideup.Spoonoliveoilontoeachtomatohalfandseasonwithsalt.Bakeuntilthetopsstarttocaramelizeslightly,about15minutes.
Meanwhile,tomakethebreadcrumbs,putthebreadinafoodprocessorandpulsetofinecrumbs.Addtheherbs,lemonzest,Parmesan,andoliveoilandpulsetocombine.
Removethetomatoesfromtheovenandspoongenerousamountsofthecrumbsontothetomatohalves.Bakeuntilthecrumbsarewelltoasted,about15minutes,andserve.
CHILLEDCONSOMMÉWITHSOLDIERS
SetboldagainstmanyfoodmemoriesisabowlofGabrielleHamilton’schilledconsomméeatenonehotEastVillagesummerafternoonatherrestaurant,Prune.Mostpeopleknowclearaspicsonlyfromphotographsinoldcookbooks,butthisloststapleofhautecuisineisworthreviving.Therichqualityofthechickenstockiskeytothisrecipe,bothforflavorandtoensurethereisenoughgelatinsothattheaspicwillsetwhencool.Theglisteningcubesofcoldconsommémeltingonwarmtoastarepowerfullysatisfying.Anytoastisfine—warmisbest.Soldiersarebatonsoftoast,cuttoauniformsize,standingfirmandstraightlikesoldiers.
Serves4to6RICHCHICKENSTOCK
2tablespoonsoliveoil1yellowonion,roughlychopped3carrots,peeledandroughlychopped2stalkscelery,roughlychopped1chicken,about3pounds,gibletsandliverremoved,rinsedandtrimmedofexcessfat6chickenfeet,rinsed4chickenlegs,rinsed6sprigsfreshthyme1bayleaf1/4teaspoonsaltOliveoil4slicesfreshorday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),eachabout1inchthickTenderfreshherbssuchassorrel,chervil,tarragon,fenneltops,celeryleaves,orbasiltipsforgarnish
Tomakethestock,heattheoilinapotovermediumheat.Addtheonionandcarrotsandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilslightlycaramelized,about10minutes.Addtheceleryandcookfor5minutesmore.Addthechicken,chickenfeetandlegs,thyme,bayleaf,salt,and4quartsofwater.Slowlybringtoa
simmerwhileskimmingoffanyimpuritiesthatrisetothetop.Continuecookingatalowsimmer,uncoveredandskimmingthesurfaceoften,forabout11/2hours.
Removethechickenfromthepot.Discardtheskinandbonesfromthechicken;reservethemeatforanotherusesuchaschickensalad.Strainthestockthroughafine-meshstrainerlinedwithcheeseclothintoalargemetalbowl.Placethebowlinanicebathandstirtocool.Asthestockcools,thefatwillrisetothetop.Skimthefatfromthesurfaceanddiscard.Pourthestockintoacleanpotandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattosimmerandcookuncovereduntilthestockisreducedtoroughly2quarts,about1hour.Strainagainintoametalbowl.Placeinanicebathandstirtocool.Pourthestockintoarectangularglassorenamel-lineddishtoadepthof1/2to1inch.Coverandrefrigerateovernighttoset.Reservetheremainingstockforasoupbaseorotheruses;storeinacoveredcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto3days.
Justbeforeserving,pour1/4inchofoliveoilintoalargeskilletandheatovermedium-highheat.Addthebreadandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandverycrisp,about3minutes.Turnandfryuntildeepgoldenbrownandcrisponthesecondside.Cutthefriedbreadintostripsabout1/2inchwide.Bringthefriedbreadtothetablewhilestillhot.
Unmoldtheconsomméontoacuttingboard.Cutinto1/2-to1-inchcubesandarrangeonchilledplates.Garnishwiththeherbsandservewiththesoldiers.
WHITEGAZPACHO
Linguistsstilldebatetherootofgazpacho,thenameofthefamousSpanishsoup,citingmanysources,fromtheArabicfor“soakedbread”totheGreekfor“littletreasurehouseofedibles.”Thereisnoargumentthatthebasicpremiseofthesoupisasoldasbreaditself.Romantextsdescribeacoldmashofoldbread,vinegar,andoliveoilas“drinkablefood.”ThesamemashprovidedsustenancetofarmersinfeudalSpain.
Gazpachovariesdeliciously(andseasonally)acrossSpain.Thewhitegazpacho,withitsbaseofbreadandgarlic,predatesthemorecommontomato-basedversionintroducedaftertheSpanisharrivedintheAmericas.Traditionally,theredgazpachoismadeusingbreadtothickenaswell.Usingtheredtogarnishthewhiteisawinningcompromise.
Serves4to6WHITEGAZPACHO
2poundsrawalmonds2clovesgarlic4slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),eachabout1/2inchthick6cupswater1/2teaspoonsalt1cupoliveoil1/4cupsherryvinegar1/4cuplemonjuice
REDGAZPACHOGARNISH
2cupscherrytomatoes,roughlychopped2cupsseedlessredgrapes,roughlychopped1Englishcucumber,peeledandroughlychopped2tablespoonsoliveoil1tablespoonsherryvinegar1/4teaspoonsaltFreshlygroundpepper
1/4cupfreshmintleaves,chopped
Tomakethewhitegazpacho,bringapotofwatertoaboil.Addthealmondsandgarlicandcookfor2minutes.Drain.Ifyouwantapurewhitegazpacho,removetheskinsfromthealmondswhentheyarecoolenoughtohandleandtrimthecrustsfromthebread.Transferhalfofthealmondsandgarlictoablender.Addhalfofthebreadandwater,alongwiththesalt.Blendonhighspeeduntilthemixtureisthickandsmooth.Addhalfoftheoilandblendagain.Passthegazpachothroughastrainerintoalargebowl.Repeatwiththeremainingalmonds,garlic,bread,water,andoil.Stirinthevinegarandlemonjuice.Thegazpachoshouldhavetheconsistencyofheavycream.Stirinmorewaterifitistoothick.Seasonwithsaltifneeded.Chillthesoupintherefrigeratorfor3to4hours.
Tomaketheredgazpachogarnish,inabowl,combinethetomatoes,grapes,andcucumber.Stirintheoliveoil,vinegar,salt,peppertotaste,andmint.
Toserve,spoonthecoldwhitegazpachointoshallowbowlsandtopwithafewspoonfulsoftheredgazpacho.
SOPADEAJO
Sopadeajo,or“garlicsoup,”isaclassicCastiliandish.Aswithgazpacho,preparationsofandgarnishesforthissoupvaryacrossSpain,butthebaseofgarlicandbreadisconsistent.Mostversionsarefinishedwithwholeeggsoryolks.Youcanmakethestockandcroutonsinadvance,andoncethesetwocomponentsareready,thesoupcomestogetherquickly.Thecroutons,brieflysimmeredinthebroth,gainanephemeralsoftcrunch,whiletheeggyolkenrichesthebroth.
Serves4to61quartRichChickenStock(page223)3tablespoonsoliveoil1headgarlic,peeled,separatedintocloves,androughlychopped1/2cupdrywhitewine
2teaspoonsSpanishpaprikaCroutons(page193),madefrom3slicesBasicCountryBreadChoppedfreshflat-leafparsleyforgarnish4to6largeeggyolks
Pourthestockintoalargesaucepanandbringtoasimmerovermedium-highheat.
Heatalargeskilletovermedium-highheatandaddtheoliveoil.Whentheoilisshimmeringbutnotyetsmoking,addthegarlic,reducetheheattomedium-low,andsautéuntillightgoldenbrown,30secondsto1minute.Addthewineandcook,stirring,untilitevaporates.Addthepaprikaandsautéwiththegarlicfor1minute.
Addthecroutonstotheskilletandpourinthehotstock.Bringtoaboilandsimmerfor2minutes.Removethepanfromtheheat.Garnishwiththeparsley,spoontheeggyolksontothesurface,andserve.
FRENCHONIONSOUP
Theoriginalrecipederivesfromthemostbasicofquicksoups.Onions,alwaysonhand,werefriedinduckfatorbutterandusedtomakeasavorybroththickenedwithbread.Here,weusebothduckfatandbutterwiththeadditionofcream.Theonionsinfusethecreamwithflavor,andasitreduces,themilksolidsthatareleftbehindcaramelizealongwiththeonions.
Serves46largeyellowonions,cutintoslices1/4inchthick
1cupheavycream1tablespoonunsaltedbutter1tablespoonduckfat1teaspoonsalt2cupsdrywhitewine2quartsRichChickenStock(page223)4slicesday-oldWhole-WheatBread(page114)orBasicCountryBread(page45),each1/2to1inchthick
5ouncesGruyèrecheese,grated
Combinetheonions,cream,butter,duckfat,andsaltina3-quartsautépan.Cook,stirringoccasionally,overmediumheatuntiltheonionsaresoftandtranslucent,about10minutes.Adjusttheheatlevelsothattheonionsandcreamcookataslowboil.Spreadtheonionsoverthebottomofthepot,raisetheheatslightly,andcooktheonionswithoutstirringuntilthebottomofthepotbeginstoturnbrown,about6minutes.Stirtheonionswithawoodenspoontoscrapeupthebrownedresidue.Add1/2cupofthewineanddeglazethepot,stirringtoloosenanybrownbitsstickingtothebottom.Continuecookingtheonionswithoutstirringuntilabrownedresidueformsagain,about6minutes.Scrapeupthebrownedresidueanddeglazethepotwithanother1/2cupwine.Repeattheprocesstwomoretimesuntiltheonionstakeonadeepcaramelcolor.
Pourinthestock,bringtoasimmerovermediumheat,andcookuntilthebrothiswellflavoredbythecaramelizedonions,about15minutes.Seasonwithsaltifneeded.
Preheattheovento400°F.Arrangethebreadinasinglelayeronabakingsheet.Toastuntildryandbrittle,about15minutes.Ladlethesoupintoovenproofbowls,fillingthemnearlytotherims.Floatapieceoftoastedbreadoneachserving.SprinklewiththeGruyère.Transferthebowlstothebakingsheetandcarefullyputthesheetintheoven.Bakeuntilthecheeseisbubblyandcaramelized,20to30minutes,andserve.
JambonBuerreTartine
Ham,butter,bread—thesesandwichesstockroad-stopstationsandsupermarketsacrossFrance.AmoresophisticatedversionofthiscombinationcanbefoundinwinebarsinParis,eatenasalightlunchoranafternoonsnackwithaglassofwine.Usethebesthamyoucanfindslicedthin.Cutthesoftbutterasyouwouldcheese,andspreadonthebread.SandwichthehambetweenbutteredslicesoftheBasicCountryBread(page45).
NIÇOISEPANBAGNAT
Asaladeniçoisepressedbetweenbread,thissandwichisidealforadayatthebeachoralonghike.Ifthesandwichispreparedadayinadvance,thebreadsoftensandtheflavorsdevelopovernightasthebreadisbathedwiththedressing.
ItastedmyfirstpanbagnatonadaytripwithLiztoatinyislandoffthecoastofCannesintheFrenchRiviera—ÎleSaint-Honorat,namedforthepatronsaintofbakersandpastrychefs.Nexttotheferrylanding,asaltylocalhadsetupshopsellingtunasandwiches.HemadeoneforususingawholesplitloafwehadbroughtfromDanielColin’sbakery.Wespenttheafternoononanoutcroppingoverlookingthesea,readingandsnackingonthegiantsandwichinthesun.
Thetunacanbepoachedafewdaysaheadoftimeandstoredintherefrigeratorcoveredwithoilinasealedcontainer.Good-qualitycannedtunaisafinesubstitution.Assemblingthesandwichisstraightforward.
Serves4to6TUNACONFIT
2poundsfreshtunafillet,atroomtemperature,cutintothickslicesSaltOliveoil3clovesgarlic3driedchiles3sprigsthyme3sprigsmarjoram3Gypsypeppers
TAPENADE
2cupsniçoiseolives,pittedandchoppedGratedzestandjuiceof1lemon1teaspoonfreshthymeleaves1/4teaspoonredpepperflakes6to8oil-curedanchovyfillets,drained2clovesgarlic,roughlychopped
2tablespoonscapers,drainedandchopped1teaspoonsherryvinegar2tablespoonsoliveoil1or2Baguettes(page126),halvedlengthwise1lemon,cutintopaper-thinslicesOne4-ouncejarcaperberries,drained1/2poundarugula
Tomakethetunaconfit,arrangethetunaslicesinasmallpotsothattheyfitsnuglyinonelayer.Seasonwithsalt.Pourinenougholiveoiltocovertheslicesby1/2inch.Poundthegarlicinamortarwithapestle.Addtothepotwiththechiles,thyme,andmarjoram.Setthepanoverthelowestheatlevelandheatuntiltheoiliswarmtothetouch.Theredhueofthefishwillchangetopinkishgray,anindicationthatthefishiscooking.Continuecookingthefishgentlyfor5minutesoververylowheat.Removefromtheheatandletstandfor15minutes.Letthetunacoolintheoil.Thetunawillkeepinthepot,coveredintheoil,forupto1weekintherefrigerator.
Preheattheovento475°F.Placethepeppersonabakingsheetandroastuntiltheskinisblisteredandblackened,20to25minutes.Putthehotpeppersinapaperbagandletstandforabout8minutessothattheysweatandtheirskinloosens.Whenthepeppersarecoolenoughtohandle,removethecharredskin,stems,andseeds.Transfertoabowl,seasonwithsalt,anddresswitholiveoil.
Tomakethetapenade,combinetheolives,lemonzestandjuice,thyme,redpepperflakes,anchovies,garlic,capers,andvinegarinafoodprocessorandpulsetomakeacoarsepaste.Moistentotastewiththeoliveoil.
Splitabaguetteinhalflengthwiseandspreadthetapenadeononeorbothsides.Removethetunafromtheoil,flakeitwithafork,andlayerevenlyoverthebread.Layertheroastedpeppers,lemonslices,andcapersoverthefish.Finishbyaddingagenerousamountofarugula.Youcanaddmorethanyouthinkbecausethesandwichwillbecompacted.Servethesandwichimmediatelyorwraptightlyinparchmentpaperandtheninplasticwrap.Pressbetweentwobakingsheets,weightingthetopone,andletstandforatleast1hour.Pressinginfusesthebreadwithflavor.Ifdesired,refrigerateovernight.
CLARISE’SMEATBALLSANDWICHES
OnceamonthatTartine,abagofgroundbeeffindsitswayintoourwalk-inrefrigerator.Sincewedon’tusethemeatforanythingontheregularmenu,weknowthatMelissaRobertsismakinghermotherClarise’smeatballsandwichesforfamilymeal.Thegarlic-richpestospreadincludesarugula,whichaddsasharpnotetobalancetherichmeatballsandsauce.
Serves1PESTOSPREAD
1/4cupfinelychoppedgarlic1/4cupfreshflat-leafparsleyleaves,finelychopped1/4cupfreshbasilleaves,finelychopped1/2cupfinelychoppedarugula1/4cuppinenuts,crushed3tablespoonsoliveoil2tablespoonsfinelygratedParmesancheese2teaspoonslemonjuice
1/4teaspoonsaltMEATBALLS
2tablespoonsoliveoil1largewhiteonion,chopped1poundgroundbeefwithatleast20percentfat1poundgroundpork4largeeggs1cupwholemilk1cupgratedRomanocheese1/4cupdryredwine2cupsBreadCrumbs(page193),madefromday-oldBasicCountryBreadorBaguette1bunchflatleafparsley,stemsremovedandleaveschopped11/2teaspoonssalt1/2teaspoonpepper1/4teaspoonredpepperflakes
TOMATOSAUCE
3clovesgarlic,choppedTwo16-ouncecanschoppedtomatoes1loafBasicCountryBread(page45)orBaguette(page126),split8ouncesprovolonecheese,sliced
Tomakethepestospread,combinethegarlic,parsley,basil,arugula,pinenuts,oliveoil,Parmesan,lemonjuice,andsaltinafoodprocessorandpulsetoformapaste.Thespreadcanbemadeupto2daysaheadandrefrigerated.
Tomakethemeatballs,inalargeskilletovermedium-lowheat,warmtheoliveoil.Addtheonionsandsautéuntiltheyaretranslucentandbegintocolor,about15minutes.Removefromtheheatandletcool.Combinethebeef,pork,eggs,milk,cheese,wine,breadcrumbs,parsley,salt,pepper,redpepperflakes,andcooledonionsinalargebowl.Usingyourhands,mixtocombine.Formthemeatmixtureintosmallballsthesizeofapricots.
Heatalargeskilletovermediumheat.Workinginbatches,addthemeatballs,spacingthemabout1/2inchapart,andsearthemwithoutstirringforabout2minutes.Themeatballswillreleasefromthepanwhentheyaresufficientlybrowned.Continuetocookthemeatballsuntilbrownedonallsides.Transfertoaplateandcooktheremainingmeatballs.
Tomakethetomatosauce,drainthefatfromtheskilletandplaceovermediumheat.Addthegarlicandsautéforabout2minutes.Addthetomatoesanddeglazethepan,stirringwithawoodenspoontoscrapeupthebrownedresidue.Bringthetomatoestoaboilandreducetheheattolow.Returnthemeatballstothepanandsimmerfor20minutes.
Preheattheovento350°F.Spreadthetophalfoftheloafwiththepestospread.Spoonthemeatballsandsauceontothebottomhalfandtopwiththeprovoloneslicesandthenthetophalfoftheloaf.Looselywrapthesandwichinaluminumfoil.Bakeuntilthecheesehasmeltedandthebreadiscrispyandtoasted,about25minutes.Letstandfor10minutesandthenunwrapandcutintoslicestoserve.
BÁNH-MÌ
FrenchcolonistsbroughtbaguettesandpâtétoVietnam;theVietnamesecreatedasandwichalltheirown.Bánh-mìliterallymeans“bread.”Whenorderingasandwichinabahn-mishop,youstateyourpreferredfillingfollowingthetermbánh-mì.ThisversionisanhomagetoMaryPhan,acabaretsingerandpastrybakerwhohadchargeofmewhenIstartedmyfirstcookingjobattheFourSeasonsinTexas.Sheadvisedmeagainstacareerinthekitchen,tellingmeIwas“notfitforit.”ShealsomadeformemyfirstVietnamesebaguettesandwichwiththefinestingredientspilferedfromthehotelbakeshopandcharcuteriekitchen.
Thissandwichutilizesleftoversfromtwootherrecipesinthisbook.Youcansetthecomponentsonatableandleteveryonemaketheirown.Don’tpassonthespecialgarlicfishsauceadaptedfromJohnThorn’srecipe—it’sessentialtocapturetheauthenticflavorofthesandwich.
Serves4to8PICKLEDVEGETABLES
3cupsredwinevinegar3cupswater1/2cupsugar2tablespoonssalt1redonion,cutintoslices1/4inchthick1bunchsmallcarrots,peeledandcutlengthwiseintomatchstickstrips1bunchradishes,thinlysliced
GREENAIOLI
1bunchbasil,stemsremoved1bunchcilantro,roughlychopped2cupsQuickAioli(page261)orgood-qualitymayonnaise3clovesgarlic,ifusingmayonnaiseJuiceof2limes1jalapeñoorserranochile,seeded1teaspoonsalt
GARLICFISHSAUCE
4clovesgarlicJuiceandpulpfrom3limes1teaspoonchilioil2tablespoonsVietnamesefishsauce1or2freshlybakedorday-oldBaguettes(page126),eachhalvedlengthwise,dividedinto4sections,andtoasted12slicesPorchetta(page269)or10ouncespork-basedcoldcutsuchasmortadellaorheadcheeseBaker’sFoie(page265)2limes,cutintoquarters
Tomakethepickledvegetables,inalargebowl,stirtogetherthevinegar,water,sugar,andsalt.Addtheonion,carrots,andradishes.Letstandforatleast30minutes.Thevegetableswillsoftenslightly,andtheircolorwillintensify.
Tomakethegreenaioli,put1cupofthebasiland1cupofcilantroinablender.Reservetheremainingherbsforgarnish.Addtheaioliormayonnaise,garlic(ifusingmayonnaise),limejuice,chile,andsaltandprocessuntiluniformlygreenandsmooth.Addaspoonfulofwateriftheaioliseemstoothick.
Justbeforeserving,makethegarlicfishsauce.Poundgarlicinmortarwithpestletoapaste.Addthelimejuiceandpulpandpoundagaintoapaste.Stirinthechilioilandfishsauce.
Setoutservingbowlsofthepickledvegetables,greenaioli,garlicfishsauce,andreservedherbs.Arrangethetoastedbaguettesandporchettaonaservingplatewiththefoie.Assemblesandwichesasyoulikeandgarnishwiththeherbsandasqueezeoflime.
PANADE
PanadeisabasicFrenchpreparationsimilartotheSpanishsopaseca,or“drysoup.”TheItalianversioniscalledribollita,andinMacedonia,paximadia,orrusks,areusedtomakethedrysoup.Thevariationsareinfinite,butthefoundationisalwaysdrybreadmoistenedwithwaterorstockandcookedonthestovetoporintheovenuntilthebreadhasabsorbedalmostalloftheliquid.Rootvegetables,cabbage,greens,andothervegetablesonhandcanbeaddedalongwithherbsandapieceofsmokedmeattoflavorthewhole.Unlikeegg-basedbreadpudding,whichisusuallyeatenfreshfromtheoven,thispanadesetsandretainsitsshapebestonthesecondorthirdday.Itisthencutintowedges,moistenedwithaspoonfulofcream,andreheated.Theseslicesofsavorypiearemuchmorehandsomethanwhenservedstraightoutoftheoven.
Serves4to66tablespoonsunsaltedbutter2leeks,whitepartsonly,finelychopped6cupswholemilkSalt4slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),eachabout1inchthick1smallbutternutsquash(about1pound),peeled,seeded,andcutintoslices1/4inchthick
1bunchblackkale,stemsremoved
1headcauliflower(about11/2pounds),trimmedandcutinto1/2inchslices1/2poundfontinacheese,thinlysliced
Heavycream(optional)
Preheattheovento375°F.
Melt1tablespoonofthebutterinasaucepanovermediumheat.Addtheleeksandsautéuntilsoftened,about5minutes.Add2cupsofthemilk,theremaining5tablespoonsbutter,and2teaspoonssalt.Bringtoaboilandthenremovefromtheheat.
Coverthebottomofadeep,heavy,5-quartpotwith2ormoreslicesofthebread.Arrangethesquashslicesinanevenlayerontopofthebreadandpourin2cupsofthehotmilkmixture.Topwiththeremaining2breadslicesandthenwiththekale.Arrangethecauliflowerslicesoverthekale.Presstheingredientsdowntocompactthemiftheydon’tquitefitintothepot.
Pourtheremaining4cupsmilkmixtureoverthevegetablesandbread.Stopaddingthemilkwhenthelevelisalmosttotherim.Seasonwithsalt.Coverthepotwiththelidoraluminumfoil.Bakefor30minutes.Uncoverandarrangethecheeseoverthetop.Cover,returntotheoven,andbakeuntiltheliquidisabsorbedandreduced,andthecheesehasmeltedandbrowned,about20minutes.Whenthepanadehascooled,itshouldappeardry.
Serveimmediatelyorletcoolandrefrigerateforupto3days.Toreheat,cutthepanadeintowedgesandputonindividualovenproofplates.Pour1/4cupcreamoverthetopofeachwedgeandbakefor15to20minutesinanovenpreheatedto375°F.
NETTLEFRITATINE
Intenselygreen,nettleshavethedangerousbeautyofstinginghairsthatcoatthestems,distinguishingthemfromotherleafygreens.Thethreatisquicklyneutralizedbyheatingorblanchingthenettlesinboilingwater.Unusuallyhighiniron,protein,andcalcium,nettlesareoftendescribedashavingaflavorsimilartospinach,yetmuchmoreearthyandherbaceous.Ireadamentionoffritatine,aclassicSicilianpreparation,whileresearchingtraditionalstalebreaddishes.Imaginedasasortofomelette,weusedcoarsebreadcrumbs,amplenettles,andjustenougheggtobindthem.Friedinoliveoilandservedwithasimpletomatosauce,fritatineisnowatreasuredfavorite.
Youwillneedabouteightouncesofnettleleavesforthisrecipe—ideallyalargepileofleavesthatwillfilltheskillet.Becausetheuncookedleaveswillsting,handlethemwithtongsorgloves.
Serves1or23tablespoonsoliveoilAbout8ouncesnettleleavesCroutons(page193),madefrom3slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread,crushedtomakecoarsebreadcrumbs1largeegg
11/2cupsTomatoSauce(page255)
Saltandfreshlygroundpepper1lemonwedge
Heataheavy12-inchskilletovermediumheatandadd1tablespoonoftheoliveoil.Whentheoilishotbutnotyetsmoking,addthenettleleaves.Removethepanfromtheheat,andstirandtossthenettlesforabout2minutesastheycontinuecooking.Whenthenettlesarecompletelywilted,removethemfromthepanandchoproughly.
Inabowl,combinethenettles,coarsecrumbs,andegg.Stirwelltocoatthecrumbsandnettleswiththeegg.
Heata6-inchskilletovermediumheatandaddtheremaining2tablespoonsofoliveoil.Whentheoilishot,addthenettlemixtureanddistributeevenlyinthepan.Cookuntiltheedgesappearcrisp,about2minutes.Foldtheomeletteinhalfandcookfor30seconds.Transfertoaplate.
Pourthetomatosauceintotheskilletandheatoverhighheat.Carefullyplacetheomeletteinthesauceandsimmerforabout30seconds.Servewithasqueezeoflemon.
LETOURIN
LeTourinisasustenancesoupthatisatoncebothfoodanddrink.EatenacrosssouthwestFrance,itvariesaccordingtowhat’sonhandinagivenregion.Thisbreadsoupispreparedquicklyandeatenearlyinthedayormiddayasarestorativebeforetheafternoon’swork.Initssimplestform,letourinismadeofonionsfriedinoilorgoosefat,boiledinwater,andthenpouredoverstalebreadandtoppedwithafriedeggseasonedwithvinegar.Here,theliquidisenrichedwithstock,andvegetablesareaddedtomakeameal.
Serves22tablespoonsoliveoilorrenderedduckorchickenfat,plus1/4cup
1bunchyoungcarrots,peeledandcutinhalflengthwise2yellowonions,cutintoquarters1bunchkale,stemsremoved1quartRichChickenStock(page223)2largeeggsSaltandfreshlygroundpepperRedwinevinegar3slicesday-oldWhole-WheatBread(page114)orBasicCountryBread(page45),tornintochunks
Placealargesautépanovermedium-highheatandwarmthe2tablespoonsoliveoil.Addthecarrotsandonionquarters,cut-sidedown.Reducetheheattomediumandcookwithoutstirringuntilslightlycaramelized,5to8minutes.Turnthevegetables,beingsuretocookthesecondcutsidesoftheonionquarters.Cookuntilcaramelized,5to8minutes.Addthekaleandthestockandbringtoaboil.Reducetheheattosimmerandcookfor10minutes.
Heatasmallomelettepanoverhighheat.Addthe1/4cupoliveoil.Whentheoilisshimmeringbutnotyetsmoking,cracktheeggsintothepanwithoutbreakingtheyolks.Fryforabout21/2minutes,carefullyspooningsomeofthehotoilover
theeggstohelpcookthetops.Carefullypourofftheexcessoil.Seasontheeggswithsalt,pepper,andvinegar.
Setthetornbreadandvegetablesinheatproofbowls.Pourthehotstockoverthebreadandvegetables.Topwiththefriedeggsandserve.
GARBANZOBREAKFASTSOUP
Lateonenight,IglimpsedthisTunisianworker’sbreakfast,calledleblebi,onatraveldocumentary.Bowlsofgarbanzobeans,spices,preservedfish,anddrybreadwerearrayedinclayvesselsonalargetable.Workersbroughttheirownutensilsandchosehowmuchofeachitemtheywanted.Theirbowlswerefinishedwithaladleofhotstockandtoppedwithasoftpoachedegg.Chermoula,aregionalsaucethatgoeswellwithmostanything,finishesthissoupwell.
Serves4to66cupsRichChickenStock(page223)GARBANZOBEANS
2poundsfreshgarbanzobeans,shelled,or1pounddriedgarbanzobeans1teaspooncuminseeds,ifusingdriedgarbanzos1yellowonion,roughlychopped,ifusingdriedgarbanzos2teaspoonssalt,ifusingdriedgarbanzos
HARISSA
1Gypsypepper4driedchiles1tablespooncuminseeds1teaspoonfennelseeds1teaspooncorianderseeds8clovesgarlic,chopped1/4teaspoonsalt1/2cupoliveoil
CHERMOULA
2shallots,finelychoppedZestandjuiceof2lemons2clovesgarlic,finelychopped1cupfreshmintleaves,finelychopped1cupfreshcilantroleavesandstems,finelychopped
1tablespooncorianderseeds,toastedandcrushed3tablespoonscuminseeds,toastedandcrushed1tablespoonsweetpaprika3serranochiles,seededandfinelychopped1/2cupoliveoil
Croutons(page193),madefrom6slicesday-oldBasicCountryBreadorWhole-WheatBread1/2to3/4poundsTunaConfit(page233)ortwo6-ouncecansoliveoil–packedtuna,drained1/2teaspoonsalt
4to6eggs3tablespoonscuminseeds,toastedandground,forgarnish(optional)
Preparethestockasdirected;omitthechickenfeetifyoulike.
Ifusingfreshgarbanzos,bringasaucepanwith2quartsofwatertoaboil.Addthegarbanzosandcookfor2minutes.Drain.Ifusingdriedgarbanzos,combinethegarbanzos,cuminseeds,onion,andsaltinasaucepanandadd2quartsofwater.Bringtoaboil,reducetheheattolow,andsimmer,partiallycovered,untilthebeansarecompletelysoft,2to3hours.Removefromtheheatbutdonotdrain.
Tomaketheharissa,preheattheovento475°F.Placethepepperonabakingsheetandroastuntiltheskinisblisteredandblackened,20to25minutes.Putthehotpepperinapaperbagandletstandforabout8minutessothatitsweatsandtheskinloosens.Whenthepepperiscoolenoughtohandle,removethecharredskin,stems,andseeds,androughlychop.Heatasmallskilletoverhighheat.Addthechilesandpressdownonthemwithaspatula,andtoastfor3to5minutes.Turnthechilesandpresswiththespatulatotoastonthesecondsidefor3to5minutes.Transferthechilestoamortar;theywillbecomebrittleastheycool.Heatthesameskilletovermediumheat.Addthecumin,fennel,andcorianderseedsandtoast,stirringconstantly,untilyousmellthestrongtoastedaroma,6to8minutes.Transfertothemortar.Usingapestle,poundtoafinepowder.Addthechoppedpepper,garlic,andsaltandpoundtoathickpaste.
Pourtheoliveoilinthesameskilletandheatovermedium-highheatuntilitstartstosmoke.Turnofftheheat,carefullyaddthegarlic-spicepaste(itwillbubbleandsputter),andstirgentlywithawoodenspoontodispersethepaste.Lettheharissacoolintheskilletandthentransfertoaservingbowl.
Tomakethechermoula,placealltheingredientsinafoodprocessorandpulsetomakearoughpaste.
Rightbeforeserving,pourthestockintoasaucepanandheatovermedium-highheat.Keepwarm.Drainthegarbanzobeansifnecessary.Dividethecroutons,garbanzobeans,chermoula,andtunaamongservingbowls.
Bringasaucepanwith2quartsofwatertoaboil.Addthe1/2teaspoonsaltandreducetheheattolow.Crackeacheggintoasmallbowl,beingcarefulnottobreaktheyolk.Holdingthebowlnearthesimmeringwaterandtiltingit,slidetheeggintothewater.Cooktheeggsuntiltheyfloattothesurface,justunder2minutes.Useaslottedspoontoremovetheeggsfromthewater.
Ladlethehotstockintothebowls.Placeapoachedeggineachbowlandgarnishwithaspoonfulofharissa.Seasonwithtoastedcuminandserve.
INVOLTINI
Involtini,derivedfromawordmeaning“towraporbundle,”arepreparationsinwhichmeat,fish,orvegetablesarewrappedaroundafillingthatoftenincludesbreadcrumbs.Dependingontherecipe,therollsareservedcoldorbakedwithsauceaswedohere.InsouthernItaly,religioustraditionregardingtheuseofoldbreadadvisesonetowastenone—awelcomerespectforaloaflaboredover.
Serves4to6TOMATOSAUCE
1yellowonion,finelychopped1carrot,peeledandfinelychopped3tablespoonsoliveoilOne3-ouncecantomatopaste3clovesgarlic,finelychopped1teaspoonredpepperflakesOne16-ouncecanwholetomatoesRedwinevinegarSalt
STUFFING
Breadcrumbs(page193),madefrom4slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread,Whole-WheatBread,orSemolinaBread2cupswholemilkricottaGratedzestandjuiceof1lemon1teaspoonfreshthymeleaves1/4teaspoonsalt2or3mediumglobeeggplantsSaltOliveoil1cupheavycream1/2cupfinelygratedAsiagocheese
Tomakethetomatosauce,heatadeepskilletovermedium-highheat.Addtheonion,carrot,and2tablespoonsoftheoliveoilandsautéuntilthevegetablesaresoft,about10minutes.Addtheremaining1tablespoonoliveoilandthetomatopasteandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilthepasteturnsadeeprustyred,6to8minutes.Stirinthegarlicandtheredpepperflakesandcookfor2minutes.Addthewholetomatoes,raisetheheattohigh,andbringtoaboil.Reducetheheattolowandsimmerfor20minutes,usingawoodenspoontomashthetomatoesintochunks.Seasonwithvinegarandsalt.
Meanwhile,tomakethestuffing,inabowl,stirtogetherthebreadcrumbs,ricotta,lemonzestandjuice,thyme,andsalt.
Trimthestemendofeacheggplant.Usingamandoline,cuttheeggplantlengthwiseintoslices1/4inchthick.Youshouldhave12slices.Sprinkletheslicesonbothsideswithsalt,layertheminacolander,andletstandfor1hour.Pressthemoisturefromtheeggplantandblotthemdrywithakitchentowel.Pouroliveoiltoadepthof1inchinadeep,heavysaucepanorlargeskilletandheatto360°Fonadeep-fryingthermometer.Place3or4oftheeggplantslicesinthehotoilandcookuntiltheslicestakeonsomecolor,3to4minutes.Usingtongs,removetheslicesandputinacolandertodrain.Repeatwithremainingslices.
Preheattheovento425°F.Pourthetomatosauceintoamedium-sizedbakingdish.Placeaspoonfuloffillingattheoneendofeacheggplantslice.Rolltheslicearoundthefillingandplaceitseam-sidedowninthedishontopofthetomatosauce.Spoonageneroustablespoonofcreamovereachrolltomoistenit.Bakeuntiltheedgesofsaucearoundthesidesofthedisharedarkandtherollsarenicelycaramelized,20to25minutes.GarnishwiththeAsiagocheesebeforeserving.
SAVORYBREADPUDDING
Thissavorypuddinghasalltheaspectsyoulikeaboutasoufflébutisnearlyimpossibletomessup—itevensouffléswhenbaked.Youcanassemblethedishuptoadayaheadandstoreitintherefrigerator,lettingitcometoroomtemperaturebeforebaking.Bakethepuddinganhourbeforeyouwanttoserveit.Forthemushrooms,weuseamixtureofchanterellesandporcini.
Serves4to61tablespoonunsaltedbutter2leeks,whitepartsonly,finelychopped1/2cupdrywhitewine
Oliveoil2poundsassortedmushrooms,stemstrimmedandcapshalved1headTrevisoorotherradicchio,leavesseparatedCUSTARD
5largeeggs1/2teaspoonsalt1cupheavycream1cupwholemilk1/4teaspoonfreshlygroundpepper1/4teaspoonfreshlygroundnutmeg2teaspoonsfreshthymeleaves2/3cupgratedGruyèreorcheddarcheese3ouncessmokedham,chopped2slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),tornintolargechunks1/2cupgratedGruyèreorcheddarcheese
Meltthebutterinaskilletovermediumheat.Addtheleeksandsautéuntilsoft,6to8minutes.Addthewineandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilmostofwineevaporates,about5minutes.Removefromtheheat.
Heatalarge,heavy-bottomedskilletoverhighheat.Addenougholiveoiltocoatthebottomofthepan.Whentheoilissmoking,arrangethemushroomscut-sidedowninthepanandcookwithoutstirringuntilsearedandcaramelized,about1minutemore.Stirthemushrooms,addtheradicchio,andcookuntilwilted,about1minute.Seasontotaste.Removefromtheheat.
Preheattheovento375°F.
Tomakethecustard,inabowl,whisktheeggsandsaltuntilwellblended.Addthecream,milk,pepper,nutmeg,thyme,cheese,andhamandwhisktocombine.
Placethebreadchunksinan8-inchsoufflédishandaddtheleeks,mushrooms,andradicchio.Pourinthecustardsothatitcomesallthewaytotherim.Sprinkleevenlywiththecheese.Letstandfor8to10untilthecustardsaturatesthebread.
Bakeuntilthecustardisnolongerrunnyinthecenter,about50minutes.Letthepuddingrestfor15minutesbeforeserving.
BURGER
Therearecountlessgreatburgersoutthere,butthebestonestakethebunseriously.Thisoneincludeslotsofourfavoritethings:itismadefromgrass-fedbeef,assembledonafreshtoastedbriochebunwhichshouldfittheburgersnugly,andpiledwithtoppings.Thepicklescouldn’tbequickertomake.Thetomatojamaddsafamiliarflavorwithasweet,tartbalance.Ribbonfrieswithherbsareanaturalcompaniontotheburger.Havesomeonehelpbyworkingthefryerwhileyougrillthemeat.Youcanbakethebunsandmakethecaramelizedonionsandtomatojamupto3daysahead.
Serves6BRIOCHEBUNS
6piecesBriochedough(page144),about115gramseach2largeeggyolksmixedwith1tablespoonheavycream1tablespoonpoppyseeds1teaspoonsesameseeds
CARAMELIZEDONIONS
2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter2redonions,cutintoslices1/4inchthick1/2teaspoonsalt1tablespoonsherryvinegar
CHERRYTOMATOJAM
6ouncesdry-curedSpanishchorizo,finelychopped1shallot,finelychopped1poundcherrytomatoes1teaspoonfreshmarjoramleaves1teaspoonfreshthymeleaves1/2cupdriedcurrants,soakedfor5minutesinwarmwater,drained,androughlychopped2teaspoonssherryvinegar1/2teaspoonpackedbrownsugar1/4teaspoonsalt
QUICKAIOLI
1cupmayonnaise3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil1clovegarlic,crushedGratedzestandjuiceof1lemon
QUICKPICKLES
1Englishcucumber,cutintoslices1/8inchthick2teaspoonssalt3tablespoonsfreshchoppeddill1cupricewinevinegar1/2cupwater
FRIEDPOTATOES
2poundsrussetorKennebecpotatoes,unpeeled4cupsoliveorpeanutoilSaltandfreshlygroundpepper1cupfreshsageleaves1/2cupfreshmarjoramleaves
BEEFPATTIES
21/2poundsgroundgrass-fedbeefwithatleast20percentfat
11/2teaspoonssalt1/2teaspoonfreshlycrackedpepper8ouncesComtécheese,slicedUnsaltedbutter,softened2avocados,peeled,pitted,andsliced2headsLittleGemoriceberglettuce
Tomakethebuns,startatleast3hoursbeforeservingtheburgers.Formeachpieceofdoughintoabunshape.Placethedoughshapesonabakingsheet,spacingthem6inchesapart.Pressslightlytoflattenandspreadthemabit.Letriseatmoderateroomtemperaturefor11/2to2hours.Preheattheovento450°F.Brushthedoughwiththeeggwashandtopwiththepoppyandsesameseeds.Bakeuntilthebunsaregoldenbrown,about15minutes.
Tomakethecaramelizedonions,meltthebutterinaskilletovermediumheat.Addtheonionsandsaltandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheonionsaresoftandtranslucent,10to15minutes.Continuecookingtheonionswithoutstirringuntilthebottomofthepanbeginstoturnbrown,about5minutes.Stirtheonionswithawoodenspoontoscrapeupthebrownedresidue.Cooktheonionsforanother5minuteswithoutstirringuntilabrownedresidueformsagainandthenscrapeuptheresidue.Repeattheprocessuntilonionstakeonadeepcaramelcolor,10to15minutes.Addthevinegaranddeglazethepan,stirringtoscrapeupthebrownedbits,andcookforanotherminute.Transferthecaramelizedonionstoabowltocool.
Tomakethetomatojam,evenlydistributethechorizointhesameskilletoverhighheat.Cookuntilthechorizoreleasessomefat,about5minutes.Addtheshallotandcookuntilsoftened,3to5minutes.Addthecherrytomatoesandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilthetomatoespopandreleasetheirliquid.Reducetheheattomedium,addthemarjoram,thyme,andcurrants,andcook,stirringfrequently,untiltheliquidhasevaporatedandthejamisthick,about15minutes.Stirinthevinegar,brownsugar,andsaltafewminutesbeforethejamisdone.Transfertoabowl.
Tomaketheaioli,inabowl,stirtogetherthemayonnaise,oliveoil,garlic,andlemonzestandjuice.Coverandrefrigerateuntilserving.
Tomakethepickles,inabowl,tossthecucumbersliceswiththesaltanddill.Addthevinegarandwater.Setasideuntilserving.
Topreparethefriedpotatoes,about1hourbeforeyouplantocookthem,useamandolineorwidevegetablepeelertocutthepotatoeslengthwiseintothin,translucentslicesabout1/8inchthick.Stacktheslicesandcutlengthwiseintostrips1/2inchwide.Placethestripsinabowlofcoldwaterandsetasidetosoakforatleast15minutesorupto1hour.
Tomakethebeefpatties,prepareafireinacharcoalgrillabout30minutesbeforeservingtheburgers.Placethegroundbeefinabowland,usingyourhands,workthesaltandthepepperintothemeat.Themeatpattiesshrinkastheycook,soshapethem1/2to1inchlargerindiameterthanthebuns.Sprinklealittlesaltoverbothsidesofthepatties.Grillthepattiesfor3minutesoruntildonetoyourpreference.Turnthepatties,topwiththecheeseslicesandsomeofthecaramelizedonions,andgrilluntilthecheesehasmeltedandtheburgersaresearedonthesecondside,about3minutes.Transfertoaplateandletrestfor2minutes.
Cutthebunsinhalfandspreadthecutsidesofbothhalveswiththesoftenedbutter.Placethehalvesonthegrill,buttered-sidedown,andtoastuntilgoldenbrown,about2minutes.
Heattheoilinadeep,heavypotoranelectricdeepfryerto375°Fonadeep-fryingthermometer.Lineaplatewithpapertowelsandputnearthestoveorfryer.Workinginsmallbatches,grabahandfulofthepotatoesandletthewaterdrainoffasmuchaspossible.Placethepotatoesintheoil;becareful,astheoillevelwillrisequickly.Frythepotatoesuntilgoldenbrown,givingagentlestir,about3minutes.Usingastrainer,transferthepotatoestothepapertowels.Seasonwithsaltandpepper.Repeattheprocesstocooktheremainingpotatoes,
takingcaretoletoilreturnto375°F.Whenthepotatoesaredone,frythesageandmarjoramleavesinthehotoiluntilcrisp,about10seconds.Removeandtosswiththefries.
Bringtheplateofpatties,andthegrilledbuns—alongwiththetomatojam,aioli,avocados,andlettuce—tothetable.Assembleburgersasyoulikeandaccompanywithfriedpotatoes.
BAKER’SFOIE
DanielColin’sBoulangerieArtisanalewasinanancientstonebuilding.Thegroundfloorheldapastrykitchen,abreadworkshop,amassivewood-firedoven,andashopforsellingbakedgoodsandpreparedfoods.Freshjarsofpâtéandjamwerealwaysontheledgenexttotheoven.Wespreadthemonwarmbreadasabakers’snack.
Irarelyhavethetimerequiredtomaketraditionalpâtés.Soweworkedupaquickanddeliciousrecipethatsatisfiesourpâtécravings.Ittastesasifyouspentmoretimeandresourcesthanyouactuallydid.Thetrickistomakesurethebutterisatroomtemperatureandthelivershavecooledbeforeyoublendthetwo.Thepâtéistoppedwithalayerofcognac-infusedbutterbeforerefrigerating,gildingthebaker’sfoie.
Serves4to66duckorchickenliversOliveoil3shallots,finelychopped1tablespoonfreshthymeleaves6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature1/2cupcognac1/2teaspoonsaltCOGNACBUTTER
3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature1tablespooncognacPinchofsalt3slicesBasicCountryBread(page45)orWhole-WheatBread(page114),toasted
Rinsetheliversincoldwaterandremoveanyvisiblefatorconnectivetissue.Heataheavyskilletoverhighheatandaddenougholiveoiltocoatthebottomofthepan.Whentheoilbeginstosmoke,carefullyaddtheliversandsearforabout30seconds.Quicklyturnthelivers,addtheshallots,andsearforanother30seconds.Addthethymeandcookforafewsecondsuntilitisaromatic.Removethepanfromtheheatandpourofftheexcessoilandfat.Whilethepan
isstillhot,add2tablespoonsofthebutterand1/4cupofthecognac,anddeglazethepan,stirringtoloosenanybrownbitsstickingtothebottom.Transferthecontentsofthepantoafoodprocessorandletcoolfor8to10minutes.
Oncethelivershavecooled,addtheremaining4tablespoonsbuttertothefoodprocessorandprocesstoathickpuree.Addthesaltandtheremaining1/4cupcognacandprocessagain.Tasteandaddmoresaltifneeded.Pourtheliverpureeintoramekinsorintoasuitablysizedloaforpâtépan.
Tomakethecognacbutter,placethebutterinasmallbowl.Inasmallsaucepan,heatthecognacuntilitishottothetouch.Addittothebutteralongwiththesalt.Stirthebutteruntilithasaliquidconsistencyandthenpouritevenlyoverthepâté.Coverandrefrigerateuntilthecognacbutterhasset.Servecooloratroomtemperaturewithtoast.
PORCHETTA
Porchettaisaregalwaytocookaporkshoulder.Bakedforeighthoursorlongeratalowoventemperature,themeatbastesitselfandfillsthekitchenwithasublimesavoryaroma.It’sbesttopreparethismeatthenightbeforeyouwanttoserveit.Whenyoutakeitoutoftheoveninthemorning,youcaneatasliceforbreakfastwitheggsandtoast.ServetheporchettawithpolentaanduseleftoversforBành-Mìsandwiches(page241).
Serves4to65poundsbonelessporkshoulder1teaspoonsaltSTUFFING
1bunchflat-leafparsley,stemsremoved12freshsageleaves1tablespoonfreshrosemaryleaves2tablespoonsfreshthymeleaves1cupfenneltops,chopped1/4teaspoonredpepperflakes1tablespoonfennelseeds5clovesgarlic2teaspoonssalt4slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),eachabout1inchthick,tornintosmallchunks3tablespoonsoliveoilOliveoil
Haveyourbutcherbutterflytheporkshouldertoaneventhicknessof1inch.Youshouldhavealongsheetofmeatroughly9by14inches.Laytheporkshoulderoutflatonacuttingboard.Seasonwith1teaspoonsalt.
Preheattheovento220°F.
Tomakethestuffing,inafoodprocessor,combinetheparsley,sage,rosemary,thyme,fenneltops,redpepperflakes,fennelseeds,garlic,andsalt,andpulsetochop.Addthebreadandoliveoilandpulsetocombine.
Spreadthestuffingevenlyoverthesurfaceofthemeat.Beginningononeside,rollthemeatuptightandsecurewithbutcher’stwine.
Placetherollonasheetofaluminumfoil.Foldthesidesofthefoilupandaroundbothendsofroastandthenrolltheroasttoencloseitinthefoil.Thishelpsretainthemoistureandfatwhiletheroastiscooking.Placetheroastonabakingsheetandbakeuntilthemeatisverytender,8to10hours.
Leavethealuminumfoilontheroastwhileitcools.Refrigerateforatleast2hourstoallowtheroasttofirmupandholditsshape.
Removetheroastfromthefoilandcutoffthetwine.Cuttheroastcrosswiseintoslicesabout1inchthick.Heataheavyskilletovermediumheat.Whentheskilletishot,addenougholiveoiltocoverthebottomofthepan,andaddasmanyslicesofporchettaaswillfitinthepan.Cooktheslicesuntilbrown,3to5minutes.Turnandcookuntilbrownedonthesecondsideandheatedthrough,2to4minutes.Serve.
TARTINEBAKEDFRENCHTOAST
WhenweconsideredouridealFrenchtoastatthebakery,weimaginedathicksliceofourbreadsetrichwithbakedcustard.Thetopwouldbecrispyandcaramelizedlikecrèmebrûlée.Thoughtheresultingrecipeborrowselementsfrombreadpudding,theresultsareunmistakablyFrenchtoast.Thebreadslicesaresoakedinthecustardbaseforatleastanhouraheadoftime,andeachsliceabsorbsmorethanacupofliquid.Thetwolargesliceswillfitinastandardcast-ironskillet,butyoucaneasilydoubleortriplethecustardbasetomakemoretoasts.Intheautumnandwinter,wespreadthetoastwithripepersimmonandeatwithbaconandmaplesyrup.Sautéedapplesorpearswouldbefinestand-ins.
Serves2CUSTARDBASE
3eggs2tablespoonssugarZestof1lemon1/2teaspoonvanillaextract1/4teaspoonsalt1cupmilk2slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),eachabout11/2inchesthick2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter
MAPLE-GLAZEDBACON
4thick-cutstripsbacon1tablespoonmaplesyrup1veryripeHachiyapersimmon
Tomakethecustardbase,inabowl,stirtogethertheeggs,sugar,lemonzest,vanilla,salt,andmilk.
Placethebreadslicesinthecustardbaseandletstanduntilthebreadissaturated,about1hour.
Preheattheovento350°F.
Heataskilletovermedium-lowheat.Meltthebuttertocoatthebottomofthepan.Lifteachbreadslicefromthecustardbaseandplaceinthepan.Cooktheslicesforabout3minutes,occasionallypressingthemagainstthebottomofthepanwithaspatulasothebottomscookevenly.Thisstepsealsthebottomsoftheslicesbycookingtheouterlayerofcustardbase.Italsopreparesthebreadforreceivingmorecustardbase.
Spoonorladlemorecustardbaseintothecenterofeachbreadslice.Iftheliquidleaksoutofthebreadandontotheskillet,thebreadslicesarenotquitesealed.Continuecookingfor1minute,pressingtheslicesslightlytoseal.Whentheslicesarefullofcustardbase,carefullytransfertheskillettothemiddlerackoftheoven.Donotturnthetoast.
Baketheslicesfor12to15minutesandthengentlyshakethepan.Ifthecustardbaseisstillliquid,continuebakingandcheckagain.Dependingonthethicknessoftheslices,thecustardmaytakeupto20minutestocookallthewaythrough.TheFrenchtoastisdonewhenthecustardseemssolidandeachsliceappearsinflated,asthecustardsouffléswhenfullycooked.
Meanwhile,tocookthebacon,heataskilletovermediumheat.Addthebaconandcookuntilthestripsbegintogetcrispyaroundtheedges,about10minutes.Pourthefatfromthepanandaddthemaplesyruptocoatthebacon.Transfertotheovenalongsidethetoastandbakeuntilthebaconisglazed,about5minutes.
Usingthespatula,removetheFrenchtoastfromtheskilletandplacethem,caramelized-sideupontoplates.Theskilletsideshouldbecaramelizedandcrisp.SpreadtheFrenchtoastwiththepersimmonandservewiththebacon.
LEAVENEDWAFFLES
Usingayoungleavenincombinationwithpoolishinwafflesyieldsthecharacteristicdepthofflavorgainedfromfermentationwithoutthestrongsourness.Theblendoflow-glutenfloursandcornstarchresultsinwaffleswithatender,crispytexture.Ifyoumixthebatterearlyinthemorning,itwillbereadybybrunchtime.Or,youcanmixthebatterbeforeyougotobedandrefrigerateit,covered,untilthemorning,whenyoucanbeattheeggwhitesandfoldtheminjustbeforeyoumakethewaffles.
Serves4to64cupsleaven(seepage47)2tablespoonspoolish(seepage128)2cupswholemilk
11/4cupsall-purposeflour
11/4cupspastryflour2/3cupcornstarch
7tablespoonssugar1tablespoonsalt1/2cupunsaltedbutter,melted,plusmoreforbrushing
6eggs,separated3tablespoonsvanillaextract
Placetheleavenandpoolishinalargebowl.Inasaucepanoverlowheat,warmthemilkuntiljustwarm.Pourovertheleavenandpoolishandstirtocombine.
Siftthefloursandcornstarchintoabowl.Stirin5tablespoonsofthesugarandthesalt.Addthe1/2cupmeltedbutterandtheeggyolkstothemilkmixture.Graduallyaddthedryingredientswhilemixingtoincorporate.Coverandletfermentinawarmplace(80°to85°F)for3to5hours.Thelongeryouletthebatterferment,thestrongertheflavorwillbe.
Justbeforemakingwaffles,inabowl,beattheeggwhiteswiththeremaining2tablespoonsofsugaruntilmediumpeaksform.Addthevanillatothebatter,stirringtoincorporate,andthenfoldinthewhippedeggwhites.
Heatawaffleironorwafflemakeraccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructionsandbrushwithmeltedbutter.Ladlethebatterontothewaffleironandcookuntilgoldenbrownandcrispy,3to5minutes,dependingonthethicknessofthewafflesandthetypeofwaffleironormaker.Serve.
TROUBLEAFFOGATO
TroubleCoffeeisatForty-sixthAvenueandJudah,afewblocksfromOceanBeachwhereEricandIsurfedformostoftheyear.Aftercolddawnsurfsessions,weheadedtoTroublefor“thehouse”restorative:hotcoffee,thick-cutcinnamontoast,andayoungcoconutservedwithastrawandaspoon–aninspiredcombination.
Italianaffogato,meaning“drowned,”referstoascoopofgelatooricecreamwithespressopouredoverthetop.Thisversionofaffogato,oneofmyfavoritedesserts,isinspiredby“thehouse”atTrouble.Thecrunchybreadcrumbscontrastwiththeexceptionallycreamycoconuticecream.LookforyoungcoconutsatAsianorMexicanproducemarkets.Thegoat’smilkcaramel,orcajeta,isalsosoldatMexicanmarkets.AtTartine,weuseFourBarrelcoffee—ourpeerlessneighborhoodroasterafewblocksfromthebakery.
Serves4to6COCONUTICECREAM
13/4cupsunsweetenedshreddedcoconut4cupsheavycream2cupswholemilk2youngfreshcoconuts9largeeggyolks11/3cupssugar1tablespoondarkrum1teaspoonsalt
CINNAMON–BROWNEDBUTTERBREADCRUMBS
2slicesday-oldBasicCountryBread(page45),eachabout1inchthick3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter1/2cupsugar1teaspoongroundcinnamon1/8teaspoonsalt1/2cupgoat’smilkcaramel
4to6shotshot,freshlypressedFourBarrelespresso
Tomaketheicecream,preheattheovento300°F.Spreadthecoconutonabakingsheetandtoastuntillightgold,15to20minutes.
Combinethecreamandmilkinalargesaucepanandbringtoasimmerovermedium-highheat.Removefromtheheatandstirinthetoastedcoconut.Letinfusefor45minutesandthenstrainthroughafinesieve.Discardthecoconutsolids.Returnthecreammixturetothesaucepan.
Trimthehuskfromeachcoconut,removingitdowntothehardshell.Usingthecornerofthebladenearthebaseofachef’sknifeorcleaver,crackthethin,hardshellandpopthetopoffthecoconut.Drainalltheclearliquid,orcoconutwater,andsavetodrinkorforanotheruse.Usingaspoon,scrapethesoftcoconutfleshfromtheshell.Choproughly.
Inabowl,whisktheyolksandsugar.Bringthecreammixturetoasimmerovermediumheat.Add1cupofthehotcreammixturetotheyolksandstirquicklytotemper.Addanothercupandstiragaintocombine.Pourthecream-yolkmixtureintotheremainingcreammixtureinthesaucepan.Reducetheheattolowandcook,stirring,untilslightlythickened,6to8minutes.Strainthecustardthroughafine-meshsieveintoabowl.Stirintherum,salt,andchoppedcoconut.Coverandrefrigerateovernight.
Tomakethebreadcrumbs,preheattheovento350°F.Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaperoranonstickliner.Cutthecrustsfromthebreadslicesandteartheslicesintosmallpieces.Meltthebutterinaskilletovermediumheatandcookuntilitbeginstobrown.Removethepanfromtheheat,addthebreadandsugar,andstirtocombine.Stirinthecinnamonandsalt.Transferthebreadmixturetothepreparedsheetandbakeuntilthesugarandbuttercoatingcaramelizes,20to30minutes.Removefromtheovenandletcool.Transfertoasmallcontainerandstoreinthefreezer.
Processthechilledcoconutmixtureinanice-creammakeraccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructions.Transfertoacontainer,foldinthebreadcrumbsandgoat’smilkcaramel,andserveimmediately,scoopingtheicecreamintobowlsorcupsandpouringtheespressooverthetop.
BOSTOCK
OurBostockismadefromtoastedbriochebreadsoakedwithanorange-infusedsyrup,spreadwithjamandalmondcream,toppedwithslicedalmonds,andbaked.Itisacloserelativeofthefrangipanecroissant.AtTartine,wemakeextrabriochetosupplyourbostockproduction.Itistheperfectpastrytoenjoywithacaféaulaitorapotoftea.Weliketovarythejams—sometimesusingslightybitterorangemarmalade,andothertimeschoosingasweeterblackberryortartapricot.
Serves4to6ORANGESYRUP
1/4cupwater1/4cupgranulatedsugar1teaspoonorangeblossomwater1/4cuporangejuiceGratedzestof1orange2tablespoonsorangeliqueur
ALMONDCREAM
13/4cupsslicedalmonds1/2cupgranulatedsugarPinchofsalt2largeeggs1/2cupunsaltedbutter2tablespoonsbrandy6slicesBrioche(page144),eachabout1/2inchthick,toasted3/4cuporangemarmalade,apricotjam,orberryjamConfectioners’sugarfordusting
Tomaketheorangesyrup,inasmallsaucepan,combinethewater,sugar,orangeblossomwater,andorangejuiceandzest.Bringtoasimmerovermedium-highheat,stirringconstantly.Whenthesugarhasdissolved,afterabout5minutes,
removefromtheheat.Stirintheorangeliqueur.Letcooltoroomtemperature.
Tomakethealmondcream,combine1cupoftheslicedalmonds,thesugar,andthesaltinafoodprocessorandprocessuntilfinelyground.Addeggsandbutterandprocesstoformapaste.Transfertoabowlandstirinthebrandy.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast1hourorupto3days.
Preheattheovento400°F.Arrangethebriochetoastsonabakingsheet.Usingapastrybrush,thoroughlysoakthetoastswiththesyrupuntiltheyareverymoist.Spreadwithalayerofjamabout1/8inchthickandfollowwithalayerofalmondcreamabout1/4inchthick.Topwiththeremaining3/4cupslicedalmonds.Bakeuntildeepgoldenbrown,15to20minutes.Thealmondcreamwillcaramelize,andthealmondsliceswilltoast.Dustwithconfectioners’sugarbeforeserving.
BABASWITHPROSECCO-POACHEDNECTARINES
Thisversionoftheclassicisbasedonbriochesoakedinarumsyrup.TheFrenchusesavarinmoldstobakethebabasintoaringshape.TheItaliansusemuffin-shapedmolds.Thebakedbriochebabasabsorbthesyrupbetterifmadeadayaheadandallowedtodryoutslightly.Youcanadjusttheamountofruminthesoakerdependingonhowstrongyoulikeit.Ifyouareusingbriochedoughfromthefreezer,letitthawfor30minutesoruntilverycoldbutnolongerfrozenbeforeshaping.
Serves4BABAS
4piecesBriochedough(page144),80gramseachCANDIEDPISTACHIOS
1cupgranulatedsugar1/8teaspoonsalt1/4cupwater1cuprawpistachios
POACHINGLIQUIDANDRUMSOAKER
One750-mlbottledryprosecco1cupgranulatedsugar1vanillabean,cutinhalflengthwise1cupdarkrum
RICOTTAFILLING
2cupswholemilkricottacheese1/2cupdriedcurrantsGratedzestandjuiceof1orange1/2teaspoonvanillaextract1/4cupgranulatedsugar3ripenectarines,pittedandcutintowedgesConfectioners’sugar
Tomakethebabas,atleast3hoursaheadofserving,rolleachpieceofbriochedoughintoacylinderandconnecttheendstoformacrownshape.Placeeachbriocheshapeinabutteredsavarinorringmold.Arrangethemoldsonabakingsheetandletthedoughriseatamoderateroomtemperaturefor2hours.
Preheattheovento375°F.Placethepanwiththefilledmoldsintotheoven.Bakeuntilgoldenbrown,about20minutes.Unmoldthebabasandletcool.
Tomakethecandiedpistachios,lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaperoranonstickliner.Inasmallsaucepan,stirtogetherthesugar,salt,andwater.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat;donotstirthemixture.Boilthesugarmixtureuntilitreaches320°Fonacandythermometer.Ifyoudonothaveathermometer,watchforthebubblingtosubsideandfortheliquidtoturnlightamber.Removethesaucepanfromtheheat,addthepistachios,andstirtocombine.Emptythecontentsofthesaucepanontothepreparedbakingsheetandspreadoutwithawoodenspoon.Letstanduntiljustcoolenoughtotouch.Workingquicklybeforethesugargetshardandbrittle,separatethepistachiosandtransfertoanotherplatetocoolcompletely.
Tomakethepoachingliquidandsoaker,inasaucepan,combinetheproseccoandsugarandbringtoboil.Usingthebackofaparingknifeoraspoon,scrapetheseedsfromthevanillabeanhalvesintothepan.Addthepodtothepan.Reducetheheattolowandsimmerfor5minutes.Pourallbut1cupoftheliquidintoabowl;addtherumtothebowlmaketherumsyrup.Setasidetocool.Reservetheremaining1cuppoachingliquidinthepan.
Tomakethericottafilling,inabowl,stirtogetherthericotta,currants,orangezestandjuice,vanilla,andsugar.
Soakthebabasintherumsyrupforatleast10minutessotheyarethoroughlysaturated.Bringthereservedpoachingliquidtoalowsimmer,addthenectarines,andpoachuntilthefruitisheatedthroughbutstillholdsitsshape,3to5minutes.Removethebabasfromrumsyrupandarrangeinbowls.Spoonthericottafillingintothecentersofthebabas.Surroundwiththenectarinesandaspoonfulofthepoachingliquid.Garnishwiththecandiedpistachiosanddustwithconfectioners’sugarjustbeforeserving.
SUMMERPUDDING
AtraditionalEnglishpreparation,thispuddingisastraightforwardandsimpleuseofbushberriesdeterminedbywhatisinseasonandmostabundant.Weightingtheberry-filled,bread-linedmoldspressesthejuiceout,whichisabsorbedbythebrioche.Asthepuddingchillsovernight,itsetsupintoadessertthatcanbeslicedlikeapieoreatenwithaspoon.Abalanceofsweetandtartfruitssuchasraspberries,blackberries,blueberries,andhuckleberriesisideal.
Serves4to64cupssoftsummerberriessuchasraspberries,blackberries,blueberries,and/orhuckleberries2/3cupgranulatedsugar
8to10slicesBrioche(page144),eachabout1/4inchthick
1cupheavycream,lightlywhipped1teaspoonconfectioners’sugar
Inasaucepanovermediumheat,combinetheberriesandthesugarandbringtoaboil,stirringconstantly.Cookfor1minuteandremovefromheat.Lineamedium-sizedglassorceramicbowlor4to6smallsoupbowlsorcupswiththebriocheslices.Reserveenoughslicesorpiecesofbriochetocoverthetop(s).Pourtheberriesandjuiceintothemold(s).Reserve2tablespoonsoftheberryjuiceforserving.
Covertheberrieswiththereservedbrioche.Placeaplateontopofeachmoldandweightwithcans(ofsoup,forexample)andrefrigerateovernight.
Unmoldthepudding(s)ontoacuttingboardorservingplatter,orspoonoutportionsintobowls.Topwiththereservedberryjuiceandthewhippedcream.Dustwiththeconfectioners’sugarandserve.
LIZ’SJAM
LizandIfindthatmakingjamisamongthemostsatisfyingprojectsyoucandointhekitchen.Jamispreservedproofofagoodcropoffruit.Itisalsoversatile—whetherservedonacheeseplateorasaccompanimenttoaroastorspreadonfreshlybakedbreadortoast.
Jamsneedthreeingredientstosetproperly:pectin,sugar,andacid.Fruitnaturallycontainspectin,ajellingagent,inanamountthatvariesfromonetypeoffruittoanother.Thefruityouchoosemustberipe,butbesurethat25percentisslightlyunderripe,asthiscontainsmorepectin.Sugaractivatesthepectin,sweetensthejam,andprovidesanacidicenvironmentthatretardsthegrowthofbacteria.Youcanusewhitecanesugarororganic“tan”sugar.Darkerorganicsugars,whicharelessrefined,willgivethejamadifferentflavorthanall-whitesugar.Traditionalrecipestendtocallforaratioof1partfruitto1partsugar.Theseproportionsmakeaverysweetjamwithmoresyrupandfewerfruitsolids.Therecipehereuseslesssugar,whichresultsinathickerjam.Acidisaddedintheformoflemonjuice.
Ifyouaremakingjamwithlow-pectinfruits,youcancombinethemwithamajorityofhigh-pectinfruit.Or,youcanaddappletoboostthepectin.Foreach500gramsoflow-pectinfruit,use1largeunpeeledapple.Cuttheapple,includingthecore,into1-inchpieces,placeonasquareofcheesecloth,bringupthecorners,andtiefirmlywithkitchenstring.Cooktheapplealongwiththefruitanddiscardthecheeseclothbundlebeforeladlingthejamintojars.
Jamshouldbecookeduntilitreaches221°F.Forevery1,000feetabovesealevel,subtract2°F.Forexample,ifyourkitchenis2,000feetabovesealevel,cookthejamuntilitis217°F.
High-PectinFruitsApplesBerries:blackberries,boysenberries,gooseberries,loganberries,raspberriesCitrus:oranges,tangerines,grapefruit,lemonsincludingMeyer,limes,kumquatsConcordgrapesQuince
Low-PectinFruitsBerries:blueberries,strawberriesFigsItalianplumsPearsStonefruits:apricots,cherries,nectarines,peaches
BasicJamRecipe1kilogram(1,000grams)fruit750gramssugarJuiceof1largeor2smalllemons
Washjarsandtheirlidsandmetalscrewbandsinhotsoapywaterandrinsethoroughlywithveryhotwater.Jamyieldvariesdependingonwhichfruitandhowmuchsugaryouuse.Threeandahalfpoundsoffruit,ingeneral,willyieldten8-ouncejars.Tosterilizethejars,placethemuprightinalargepot,addhotwatertocoverthejars,bringtoaboil,andboilfor15minutes.Placethelidsandbandsinasaucepan,addhotwatertocover,bringtoaboil,andboilfor15minutes.Alsowashtheutensilsyou’llneed—woodenspoon,ladle,canningfunnel,andjarlifter—andrinsewithhotwater.Removethejars,lids,andbandsfromtheboilingwaterandsetasideonacleanworksurface.
Washthefruitandremoveanystemsorleaves.Cutthefruitinto1/2-to1-inchpiecesorslices.Combinethefruit,sugar,andlemonjuiceinanonreactivepot,makingsurethatthefruitis3inchesbelowtherimofthepot.Ifyouareusingfruitthatisonthedrierside,suchasapricots,startbypouring1/2cupwaterper500gramsoffruitintothepot.Cookthefruitovermediumheat,stirring,untilthefruitstartstoreleaseitsjuicesandthesugarbeginstodissolve.
Raisetheheattohighandcontinuetocookthefruit,stirringasneededtopreventthefruitfromstickingtothebottomofthepot.Whenfoamstartstoformonthetopofthefruit,skimitoffwiththeladleorwoodenspoon.Thejamwillbubblevigorouslyatfirstandthenwillbubblemoreslowly.Whenthejamreaches220°to222°Fonathermometer,turnofftheheatandwaitafewminutesforthetemperaturetocomedownafewdegrees.Ifthejamisput
immediatelyintojars,thefruitwillfloattothetopofthesyrup.Thetemperaturetowhichjamiscookedisthesameforallfruitsandalltypesofpreserving:221°Fatsealevel.Forevery1,000feetabovesealevel,subtract2°F.
Usingthefunnelandladle,filljarstowithin1/8inchoftherims.Removeanydripswithacleantowel.Topwiththelidsandsealwiththescrewbands.
Ifprocessingthejarsinaboiling-waterbath,placearackinalargepot;thesurfaceoftherackshouldbe3/4to1inchabovethebottomofthepot.Fillthepotwithwaterandbringtoaboil.(Ifusingapurchasedcanner,followthemanufacturer’sinstructions.)Usingajarlifter,lowerthefilledjarsintothewater,spacingthem1inchapartandmakingsurethatthejarsarecoveredby2inchesofwater.
Adjustyourprocessingtimesaccordingtoaltitude.Mostchartsareformulatedforaltitudesof1,000feetorless.Youmustincreasetheprocessingtimebyfiveminutesforaltitudesof1,000to3,000feet,tenminutesfor3,000to6,000feet,andfifteenminutesforaltitudesof6,000to8,000feet.
Removethejarsfromtheboiling-waterbathandsetaside.Whilethejarscool,thelidswillmakeapoppingsoundastheycontract.Thisindicatesthatyouhaveagoodvacuumseal.
Ifthejarshavenotbeenprocessedorhavenotsealedproperly,storeinthefridgeforupto6weeks.Jarsofjamthathavebeenproperlyvacuumsealedwillkeepinacool,darkplaceforatleastayear.Checktomakesurethatthevacuumsealisintactbeforeopeningforthefirsttime.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Tothehandsthatinspiregoodwork:MywifeandpartnerElisabeth;kitchenmanagerandrighthandMelissa;leadbreadbakerNathan;multilinguistbreadbakerLori;ourcafemanagersSuzanne,Sierra,andTahlia;andeveryoneIworkwith.SupportdrawnfrommyTartinefamilyisimmeasurable.Warmestthanks
toyouall—andtoMomandDadalways.
ThankstoDavidWilsonforbeautifullyillustratingourplaceandstateofmind.
SincerethankstoKatherineCowles,forkeepingmyeffortspointedintherightdirectiontoenablethisproject.AndtoOlgaKatsnelsonandKateGoldstein-BreyerofPostcardCommunications.
ThankstotheeditorialteamatChronicleBooks:BillLeBlond,SarahBillingsley,andJudithDunhamalongwithPeterPerezandDavidHawk.AndspecialthankstoVanessaDina.Yourdedicatedworkismuch
appreciated.
AndthankstoEric,forbuildingthisbookfromstarttofinishwithme;andforcapturingsowelltherecordofaspecialtime.
—ChadRobertson
MythankstoChadforinvitingmetotheshapingtableandincludingmeonthisproject.
Myworkisdedicatedtothosewhoseexamplekeepsmepursuingmydreams,andwhoseaffection,goodadviceandunwaveringsupporthelpedmakethisonepossible.Jaz,Marko,Mom,andDad.
—EricWolfinger
IndexTheindexentriesbelowareastheyappearedintheprintversionofthebookandareincludedhereforyourreference.PleaseusethesearchfunctiononyoureReadertosearchfortermsofinterest.
A
Aioli
GreenAioliQuickAioli
Almonds
AlmondCreamBostockWhiteGazpacho
Anchovies
AnchoïadeBagnetVertCaesarDressingMarinatedAnchoviesTapenade
Apricots
KugelhopfArtichokes
RoastedArtichokeCroutonsTomatoPanzanella
AutolyseB
BabaswithProsecco-PoachedNectarinesBacon
BriocheLardon
Maple-GlazedBaconBagnetVertBaguettesBaker’sFoieBaker’spercentagesBánh-MìBasicCountryBread
bakingbenchrestforbulkfermentationforcoolingequipmentforfinalriseforingredientsforleavenformixingdoughforprocessforrestperiodforshapingstarterfortestbakersforvariationson
BayShrimpSandwichBeans
FreshFavaPanzanellaGarbanzoBreakfastSoupHummus
Beef
BurgerClarise’sMeatballSandwiches
Beignets
Berries
SummerPuddingBostockBourdon,RichardBread.Seealsoindividualrecipes
bakingbenchrestforbulkfermentationforcoolingequipmentforfinalriseforhistoryofingredientsforkneadingleavenformixingdoughforwithnaturalleavenvs.yeastrestperiodforshapingstarterforinwood-firedovens
BreadcrumbsBrioche
BriocheBunsBriocheLardonOliveBrioche
Bruschetta
EggplantandCharredPepperBruschettaLateSummerBruschettaSummerSquashandPeaBruschettaTomato,Melon,andChileBruschetta
Buns,BriocheBurgerButter,Cognac
C
CaesarDressingCalvel,RaymondCandiedPistachiosCaramelizedOnionsCarrots
LeTourinPickledVegetables
Cauliflower
PanadeCheese
BabaswithProsecco-PoachedNectarinesBurgerClarise’sMeatballSandwichesFrenchOnionSoupInvoltiniKaleCaesarMargheritaPizzaNettlePizzaPainauGruyèrePanadePanconTomatePotatoFocacciaRacletteSavoryBreadPuddingSummerSquashandPeaBruschettaTomatoesProvençalTomatoPanzanella
ChermoulaCherryTomatoJamChicken
Baker’sFoieBánh-MìChilledConsomméwithSoldiersRichChickenStock
Chiles
ChermoulaChileSaltHarissaTomato,Melon,andChileBruschetta
ChilledConsomméwithSoldiersChorizo
CherryTomatoJamClarise’sMeatballSandwichesCoconut
CoconutIceCreamTroubleAffogato
Coffee
TroubleAffogatoCognac
Baker’sFoieCognacButter
Colin,DanielConsommé,Chilled,withSoldiersCountryRyeBreadCrabSandwichCroissants
Croutons
RoastedArtichokeCroutonsCucumbers
QuickPicklesTomatoPanzanellaWhiteGazpacho
Currants
BabaswithProsecco-PoachedNectarinesCherryTomatoJamKugelhopf
E
Eggplant
EggplantandCharredPepperBruschettaEscalivadaInvoltini
Eggs
GarbanzoBreakfastSoupLeTourin
EnglishMuffinEquipmentEscalivada
F
FavaPanzanella,FreshFenduFennel
BayShrimpSandwichPorchetta
Figs
Anchoïade
EscalivadaFish.SeealsoAnchovies
GarbanzoBreakfastSoupNiçoisePanBagnatPickledSardinesSardinesandFreshGarbanzoHummusTunaConfit
FlaxandSunflowerBreadFlourFocaccia,PotatoFougasseFrenchOnionSoupFrenchToast,TartineBakedFreshFavaPanzanellaFriedPotatoesFruits.Seealsoindividualfruits
Liz’sJamG
Garbanzobeans
GarbanzoBreakfastSoupHummus
Garlic
GarlicFishSauceSopadeAjo
Gazpacho,WhiteGoldenRaisin,FennelSeed,andOrangeZestBreadGrapes
WhiteGazpachoGreenAioli
H
Ham
JambonBeurreTartinePanconTomateSavoryBreadPudding
Hamilton,GabrielleHarissaHazelnuts
BriocheLardonHerbSaladHummusHydrationpercentage
I
Icecream
CoconutIceCreamTroubleAffogato
InvoltiniJ
JambonBeurreTartineJams
CherryTomatoJamLiz’sJam
K
Kale
KaleCaesarLeTourinPanade
Krupman,JeffKugelhopf
L
LateSummerBruschettaLeaven
aromaofcharacteristicsofhistoryofmakingreadinessofreplenishingstarterand
LeavenedWafflesLemons
LemonGlazeLemonVinaigrette
LePort,PatrickLeTourinLiver
Baker’sFoieBánh-Mì
Liz’sJamM
Maplesyrup
Maple-GlazedBaconMaplePecans
MargheritaPizzaMarinatedAnchoviesMattos,IgnacioMeatballSandwiches,Clarise’sMelons
SummerSquashandPeaBruschettaTomato,Melon,andChileBruschetta
Mushrooms
SavoryBreadPudding
N
Nectarines,Prosecco-Poached,BabaswithNettles
NettleFritatineNettlePizza
NiçoisePanBagnatO
Olives
OliveBreadOliveBriocheTapenade
Onions
CaramelizedOnionsFrenchOnionSoupLeTourinPickledVegetables
Oranges
BostockOrangeSyrup
Oyamada,LoriP
PainauGruyèrePanadePanconTomatePanzanella
FreshFavaPanzanellaTomatoPanzanella
PeaandSummerSquashBruschettaPecans,MaplePepin,Jacques
Peppers.SeealsoChiles
EggplantandCharredPepperBruschettaEscalivadaHarissaNiçoisePanBagnatRouille
PestoSpreadPhan,MaryPickles
PickledSardinesPickledVegetablesQuickPickles
Pistachios
BabaswithProsecco-PoachedNectarinesCandiedPistachiosKugelhopf
Pizzas
MargheritaPizzaNettlePizza
PolentaBreadPoolishPorchettaPork
Bánh-MìCherryTomatoJamClarise’sMeatballSandwichesPorchetta
Potatoes
FriedPotatoes
PotatoFocacciaPrueitt,ElisabethPuddings
SavoryBreadPuddingSummerPudding
Q
QuickAioliQuickPickles
R
RacletteRadicchio
SavoryBreadPuddingRadishes
PickledVegetablesRaisins
GoldenRaisin,FennelSeed,andOrangeZestBreadRaisinandCorianderBread
RichChickenStockRoastedArtichokeCroutonsRoberts,MelissaRouilleRum
BabaswithProsecco-PoachedNectarinesRyeBread,Country
S
Saladdressings
CaesarDressingLemonVinaigretteSherryVinaigrette
Salads
EscalivadaFreshFavaPanzanellaHerbSaladKaleCaesarTomatoPanzanella
SaltSandwiches
Bánh-MìBayShrimpSandwichBurgerClarise’sMeatballSandwichesCrabSandwichJambonBeurreTartineNiçoisePanBagnat
Sardines
PickledSardinesSardinesandFreshGarbanzoHummus
Sauces
AioliAnchoïadeBagnetVertChermoulaGarlicFishSauceGreenAioliHarissaHummusQuickAioliRouilleTomatoSauce
SavoryBreadPuddingSchwertner,Amaryll
Scott,AlanSemolinaflour
GoldenRaisin,FennelSeed,andOrangeZestBreadSemolinaBread
SesameBreadSherryVinaigretteShrimpSandwich,BaySopadeAjoSoups
FrenchOnionSoupGarbanzoBreakfastSoupLeTourinSopadeAjoWhiteGazpacho
Spreads
AlmondCreamPestoSpreadTapenade
Squash
PanadeSummerSquashandPeaBruschetta
Starter
acidloadofleavenandmakingrefreshingroleofstoring
Steingarten,JeffreyStock,RichChicken
SummerPuddingSummerSquashandPeaBruschettaSunflowerandFlaxBreadSyrup,Orange
T
TapenadeTartineBakedFrenchToastTestbakersThorn,JohnTomatoes
CherryTomatoJamClarise’sMeatballSandwichesEscalivadaInvoltiniMargheritaPizzaNettleFritatinePanconTomateTomatoesProvençalTomato,Melon,andChileBruschettaTomatoPanzanellaTomatoSauceWhiteGazpacho
TorduTroubleAffogatoTuna
GarbanzoBreakfastSoupNiçoisePanBagnatTunaConfit
V
Vegetables.SeealsoindividualvegetablesPickledVegetables
Vinaigrettes.SeeSaladdressings
W
Waffles,LeavenedWalnuts
AnchoïadeWalnutBread
WaterWaters,AliceWeiner,SarahWhiteGazpachoWhole-wheatflour
FlaxandSunflowerBreadPainauGruyèreRaisinandCorianderBreadWhole-WheatBread
Wolfinger,EricY
Yanko,NateZ
Zucchini.SeeSquash
TableofEquivalentsTheexactequivalentsinthefollowingtableshavebeenroundedforconvenience.
LIQUID/DRYMEASUREMENTS
U.S. Metric
1/4teaspoon 1.25milliliters
1/2teaspoon 2.5milliliters
1teaspoon 5milliliters
1tablespoon(3teaspoons) 15milliliters
1fluidounce(2tablespoons) 30milliliters
1/4cup 60milliliters
1/3cup 80milliliters
1/2cup 120milliliters
1cup 240milliliters
1pint(2cups) 480milliliters
1quart(4cups,32ounces) 960milliliters
1gallon(4quarts) 3.84liters
1ounce(byweight) 28grams
1pound 448grams
2.2pounds 1kilogram
LENGTHS
U.S. Metric
1/8inch 3millimeters
1/4inch 6millimeters
1/2inch 12millimeters
1inch 2.5centimeters
OVENTEMPERATURE
Fahrenheit Celsius Gas
250 120 1/2
275 140 1
300 150 2
325 160 3
350 180 4
375 190 5
400 200 6
425 220 7
450 230 8
475 240 9
500 260 10
CHADROBERTSONlivesandworkswithhiswifeandpartner,Elisabeth,andtheirdaughter,Archer,alongwiththerestoftheTartinefamily,inSanFrancisco.
ERICWOLFINGERisaSanFrancisco-basedphotographer.Beforeworkingbehindthelenshespentsixyearsasacookandabaker.