Tastes and Talesof Sicilian Cookery

A Back to Queens Cookbook

By Thomas G. Ciapi Certified Executive Chef

Certified Culinary Educator Certified Culinary Administrator

American Academy of Chefs

Tastes and Talesof Sicilian Cookery

A Back to Queens Cookbook

THOMAS G. CIAPI

Tastes and Tales of Sicilian Cookery A Back to Queens Cookbook

byThomas G. Ciapi

Omega Publications Palm Springs, California, USA

Copyright 2010 by Thomas G. Ciapi

All rights reserved. This book, or parts thereof, may not be reproduced in any form without written

permission from the publisher.

ISBN 978-0-9845913-0-5

Editing, cover design and page layout by Omega Publications

Palm Springs, California

www.OmegaPublications.net

Foreword

Chef Thomas Ciapi has created a delightfully unconventional cookbook, a warm, personal collection of recipes and wonderful family stories from growing up in Queens, New York. Within this book you will find Chef Thomas’s personal family recipes based on his Sicilian heritage, his spirited narratives and tales of his adventures, as well as stories of family celebrations and the local traditions of the Sicilians living in Queens.

Queens, New York is a very special place with a diverse mix of all cultures and cuisines. Queens is dominated by Italians and Italian Americans especially Italians of Sicilian decent. I met Chef Thomas Ciapi a few years back at a culinary competition and we got to talking and found out that we both hailed from Queens, New York. After sometime of talking about the old neighborhoods and being kids from Queens I discovered that we are also both of Sicilian decent.

The conversations switched to talking about the wonderful foods of our childhoods, a bond that most of us Italian kids had in common. Talk of the markets, the butcher shops and the Italian bakeries that were important parts of what made up our neighborhoods. The other topic was of the foods that our Nonna(Grandmas) and mothers would make. As kids in Queens we would cherish these times of gathering the family together to sit, eat and be a family. Just like the many families did back in mainland Italy. Italian Americans pride themselves on preserving their culture

Each family taught their children the family recipes to assure that these recipes would be enjoyed by the next generation. “It’s a taste of the old country!” as my Nonna would say.

The weekends would kick off with trips to the markets to gather all the ingredients to create the recipes of our past. The smell of tomato sauce cooking, kids kneading pasta and everyone pitching in to create the family meal was common place in many Italian homes in Queens. Every family had their own rendition of the dishes taught to them by their Nonnas. Chef Thomas has given us a peek into his own family’s culinary traditions, as well as a collection of heartfelt stories of his Italian-American experience.

All Italian families have recipes handed down from generation to generation. These special recipes were created by our heritage and then have been brought to the New World of Queens, New York. Chef Thomas has created this book of his Italian heritage and family legacy. This book is a great collection of recipes created by the many generations of the Ciapi family. Most of us have our family recipes but Chef Ciapi has been able to make this into a wonderful book about his family experiences and a list of delicious Sicilian recipes that take me back to my childhood.

As in my own family we teach our children the importance of our culture. We strive to instill our past and our attachment to Italy in all of the Italian kids growing up here in America. Every Sunday in my family our Grandma would make a grand buffet for all the family to attend and gather.

This was an important part of keeping the family strong. My Grandpa would have us all gather around and he would talk upon the wonders of the foods and dishes from Sicily. He would share his insight on life in Italy; it usually was a story of how hard his parents worked and his memories of a quiet time of gathering around with food and family. Food has always been the core of all Italian family gatherings. As a kid I would look forward to Sundays. Grandma would always have my favorite dishes ready, Chicken Livers in Vin Santo and Gnocchi with spinach, pine nuts and raisins, classic Sicilian dishes. You will find these types of family-driven dishes in this cookbook.

I would like to thank Chef Thomas Ciapi for creating a book that is close to my heart and filled with memories of growing up Sicilian in Queens, New York. This book is for all the neighborhoods in Queens where Italian traditions are still alive and well and family is still first.

Paul Williams,CEC

Something most people don't know is that Italy has 20 Regions and each region has their folklore, traditions, diversity in cooking style and even language. There are over 189 dialects but the official language studied in school is Italian.

Same goes for the style of cooking and recipes, but the classic basis are fundamental in Italy. For example, my Mother and I are from the Lazio Region, but my Father was from Abruzzi; their style of cooking is similar but the same recipe is done differently.

Imagine the same recipe, done in many different ways, and then multiply that by the Regions. Now image all the Immigrants coming to this wonderful Country, bringing with them traditions, culture and cooking diversity, all amplified with new recipes developed here in the USA.

For an Italian coming from Europe, sometimes it is like culture shock when they’re sitting at the table and sampling some of this Italian/American food and usually saying “Americanized!”

Personally, after spending many years in this much-beloved Country, I come to understand and appreciate this diversity. Of course, I visited with many Sicilian Chefs who are friends of mine and belong to the same Association in which I am "Maestro Di Cucina" with the Italian Federation,

Chef Thomas Ciapi’s “Tastes and Tales of Sicilian Cookery” passes the bar with flying colors. I tried several of the recipes from

this book and they brought back many pleasant childhood memories with the flavors and aromas of my Grandmother and my Mama’s cooking.

Thank you, Chef Ciapi, for bringing back those memories. Job well done.

Domenico Berardicurti M.C

Culinary Operation Manager FIC Master Chef - Maestro di Cucina ACPI Master Chef - Maestro di Cucina Member ACF-TCA-FIC-ACPI Ambasciatore dell'Associazione Italian hospitality per il Texas Italian Hospitality Ambassador for Texas 2010 TCA Permin Basin Chef of the Year

Dedication

This book is dedicated to Grandpa Renda, the Foundation of my Heritage and of whom I am very proud. He captured the present with his lovely technique, not only for cooking, but also for life.

To my parents, who believed in their Heritage and for the life they shared with their children as Italians.

To my better half, my wife, Lisa Marie, and to my daughter, Danielle Nicole, my pride and joy! My dearest wish is to pass on my Heritage to you both, the delights of my life.

For the Almighty above, I thank You for everything, for the changes, the wonders, and most of all the acceptance of life.

To my brother, Steve, for helping me on this project financially and for your wonderful words of encouragement.. Thank you.

To the simplicity of cooking and to those who have the passion for it. And finally, to my growing-up friends of yesteryear who gave me the renewed desire to finish this simple Heritage Cookbook.

Chef Tom

On a personal side, growing up with our parents, grandparents and relatives was such fun and truly enjoyable getting to understand who we were. My upbringing, my roots, they will be with me always.

Our rich legacy of being from an Italian background was and is so special. When you find individuals who have experienced a similar heritage, they bring the best of our shared memories to the table as we recall the vibrant conversations of yesteryear.

We had many festive holidays and special moments within the family. It reminds me of the wonderful memories we’ve collected as we became older. I’ve grown accustomed to the earlier years and yet I embrace what we have today.

I’m very proud of you, Tom, of your vision and passion, but especially of the hard work required to complete this book. You’re not alone in the warm memories of our heritage and upbringing. As I read the book; I can see myself in those days as a young person soaking up the smells, textures and happiness that surrounded us and that I know we both still look for.

So at the end of it, I thank you for helping me refresh those memories, as they seem to get faint as I grow older.

Steve Ciapi Houston, Texas

My best memories of growing up are with my two best friends, Tommy & Steve Ciapi. As kids we would ride our bicycles several miles to East Rockaway to go fishing. We would prepare the night before in Tommy’s garage tying our fishing poles & crab traps to our bicycles.

When I got home that night I would sleep dreaming of the fish and crabs we would catch. We would leave early the next morning peddling hard to reach our destination. We would spend the day fishing for flounder, porgies, snapper & crabs. We also enjoyed listening to music on our portable radio.

When we returned home at the end of the day with our catch, Mrs. Renda-Ciapi would always help us clean and prepare our dinner which we would all enjoy. Fresh fish, crabs, good friends and Tommy’s Mom, who was a Mom to us all.

I still live in West Hempstead and “Every Time” I pass by the old house on Lexington Avenue I return to my fondest memories of summers with the Ciapi brothers. I wish those summers had never ended.

All my best, Thomas Gooch

Thomas,

I wanted to let you know I reviewed your cook book and want to say first off, well done to a very daunting challenge. You must be very excited and very proud of yourself!

I also want to tell you how cool it is to see your daughter submit recipes, and she is a strong competitor already.

It is very special to behold a book that encompasses so many generations of family cookery, an inspired and heartfelt body of work that belongs in the cabinet of every Italian food lover!

Congratulations, Thomas! Please let me know if I can be of any assistance.

Ciao, ~Mellisa Root CEPCIKA Culinary Olympic Gold Medalist 2008 International Culinary Classic Gold Medalist 2007

I remember sitting on Tom’s back porch in the summertime. When we were kids, summer days seemed to last forever for all of us. Me, Tommy, his brother Steve, my brother Billy, and Kevin Collins along with Tommy Gooch, Mike Canavan, and Teddy Nocita.

We'd be sitting around thinking about what we could do. We'd be eating red shell pistachio nuts. We loved them and usually would get a five pound bag from up at the A&P. We all used to play poker and use the nuts for the ante instead of money.

I remember many a time going home with the red dye all over my fingers! That was always a cool memory to us all. Chef Ciapi has incorporated pistachio’s into two or three of his recipes, and I’m sure it was because of his early days growing up.

Mr. Ciapi would get home from work and walk up the porch steps and say "Hey boys, how you doing?" and then go in the house. When that door opened the next time, we would get a whiff of the delicious aroma of Mrs. Renda-Ciapi’s meatballs and sauce waffling through the air. Yes, we loved our pistachio nuts, but man o man, give me some of those Renda-Ciapi meatballs and sauce........

Those were great times as kids, and the fond memories that ignite the imagination of yesteryear is what gives us the ability to enjoy meals with all of our families today.

Steve Deng

Some Thoughts

When I started writing my first book, An American Chef’s Dream,I wanted to fulfill my personal dream to complete a basic cookbook from my Heritage.

My Grandfather was my influence and he inspired me from an early age. The world of the Sicilian American culture was part of me while growing up in Queens and Long Island.

I have lived in Texas for over thirty years now, but my childhood upbringing still remains with me to this day. I always admired the way my Grandfather and Mom would continuously surround the family during the holidays, especially at dinner time.

When I was growing up, it was called Supper.

Today, I take my heritage seriously, as do so many others, and those influences continue throughout my culinary profession as a Chef. I have incorporated the ease and simplicity of my Queens days of cooking with Grandpa Renda and put it all into a simple Sicilian cookbook.

We lived simple lives and produced good wholesome food that was uncomplicated, but made with finesse. This passion still continues today with my generation and I hope that it will pass onto my daughter’s generation to come.

May this book bring back fond memories to those who have traveled the roads of Sicily, and stir in the hearts of those who have not, a deep yearning to see the birthplace of Sicilian Cookery.

My hope is that you find the tales as rewarding as the recipes.

Ben E. Keith Culinary Competition, Silver Medal, 2006

God has given us two hands- one to receive withand the other to give with. We are not made

cisternsfor hoarding; We are channels made for sharing ~

Billy Graham

Thomas G. Ciapi at Longhorn Village – The New Generation for Senior Retirement Resort Living

As I approached an age I used to call old, I realized upon turning fifty that I have learned more in the last eighteen months than in the last decade.

During the course of exploring new family, developing and maintaining lifelong friendships, and meeting colleagues around America and across the world, via Internet, I have come to treasure being able to share such fond and nostalgic memories of long ago.

We all seek to belong and the flow of this second book comes directly from those who have supported and encouraged me to continue my quest.

Although I've lived here in Texas for the past several decades, I still yearn to go back to my old neighborhood. My mouth waters as I relive those special memories, savoring the sights and sounds of what I had as a child growing up in Queens.

Ah, but it cannot be.

We have reunions and large gatherings, get-togethers to celebrate family events, and at times we all get phone calls or emails from relatives we haven't talked with in forty years. All of this is woven into the fabric of our life, thoughts of when we were, what we've become and what we'll always be: FFamily

My hope is that you will enjoy the taste and partake of the long-ago aroma that was Queens and Long Island, where the gentle nuances of oregano and garlic will mingle with childhood memories of watching my Grandpa Nonno stirring his prize sauce.

Italian Heritage comes alive as the family gathers to prepare one of these special recipes. Laughter, everyone talking, sharing stories of past feasts and holidays long over, while wide-eyed little kids sit in the corners, begging treats and listening.

This new book is four generations of Love served piping hot, filled with deep affection and the hope that my daughter, Danielle Nicole, will carry on the traditions and pass them down to her children, grandchildren and beyond.

Simple to make, easy to understand, these recipes will delight anyone who enjoys the magic of Sicilian cookery. May you enjoy each recipe, consume your own thoughts and Bon Appetite!

The similarities between growing up in the Sicilian countryside and the Long Island suburbs of the time were striking. Our ancestors brought over their Culture, their Customs and Lifestyle and of course, their Religion.

They found many physical similarities as well, including easy access to abundant fish and produce. Sturdy and hard-working, they had the skills and the talent to adapt to what was available.

People ask me why a Sicilian Cookbook, especially since I’m an Italian American from Queens and Long Island. It’s simple, really. It’s my Heritage.

It means a lot to me as I pause and reflect on those words and remember a humble island and a countryside that would remind many of God’s Country. It makes me proud. The people are warm and gracious offering sustenance and a kind word to friend and stranger alike.

My parents and grandparents brought us up well. Fifty years later, I see things I could never have seen as a child, but the influences, the enthusiasm of our culture lives within me, a never-ending infusion of Sicilian cooking at its best.

So here we are, back where it all began, at the Heart and Soul of Sicilian Cookery. .Simple country cooking based on the freshest of ingredients, magically combined with the fragrance of garden herbs and the incredible, mouthwatering aroma of imported spices.

Soon your kitchen will broadcast its unique, lip-smacking perfume, captivating your neighborhood, whether it’s the Hill Country of Austin or the towering skyscrapers of Queens.

Table of Contents

It’s All About Cheese ················································································1

Recipes··········································································································27

Starters·········································································································28Eggplant Caponata ·········································································28Pan Fried Sardines··········································································31Fried Calamari ··················································································33Anti Pasto Platter ············································································36Kalamata Olive Garlic Tapenade·············································38Grilled Asparagus Bruschetta ···················································40Lemon Butter Steamed Stuffed Artichokes·························42

Soups············································································································45Minestrone Soup ·············································································45Pasta Fazool Soup ···········································································48Italian Pot -au -Fue ·········································································51Lentil or Esau Soup ········································································54Italian Bean Soup -Maccu ···························································56Momma Renda-Ciapi’s Bread Soup ·······································59

Salads ··········································································································· 62Sicilian Potato Salad······································································ 62Roasted Eggplant and Red Pepper Salad ····························· 65Garden, Basil, Fresh Mozzarella Salad·································· 70Grandpa Renda’s Napolitan Potato Salad ··························· 72Red Radicchio and Asparagus Salad······································ 75Chicory Salad with Balsamic Vinaigrette and Kalamata

Olives ··································································································· 78

Side Dishes ································································································ 80Italian Sausage and Pignolia Nut Stuffing·························· 80Pan Fried Rhubarb (Gaudouna) ··············································· 83Italian Squash (Cucuzza)····························································· 86Steamed Garlic Snails··································································· 88Wild Mushroom Risotto ······························································ 91Lemon Basil Risotto······································································· 94Cauliflower with Brown Butter, Capers and Toasted

Bread Crumbs··················································································· 96

Main Dishes ································································································98Sicilian Style Manicotti································································98Skillet Fried Eggplant Parmigiano ······································· 101Grandpa Renda’s Homemade Lasagna ······························ 104Baked Ziti ························································································ 107Osso Bucco ······················································································ 109Classico Meat Sauce with Fusilli ·········································· 112Baked Bluefish ·············································································· 115Freeport, Long Island Breaded Whiting····························· 118Buttered Linguine w/ Roasted Italian Bread Crumbs ·· 120Napolitan Pizza············································································· 123Sicilian Style Pan Pizza ····························································· 126Pomodoro Sauce ··········································································· 129Pomodoro Crudo ·········································································· 132Brocoila in Pomodoro Sauce ··················································· 135Sautéed Veal Marsala································································· 138Pan Sautéed Italian Sausage and Roasted Peppers······· 141Linguine and Italian Meatballs ············································· 144Linguine and White Clam Sauce··········································· 147Linguine and Red Clam Sauce ··············································· 149Sicilian Style Meatloaf ······························································ 152Easter Sunday Roasted Leg of Lamb ··································· 155Rustic Tuscan Penne Pasta with Grilled Chicken ········· 158

Desserts ···································································································· 161Tiramisu··························································································· 161New York Style Cheesecake ··················································· 164Cannoli Cream Stuffing···························································· 168Stuffed Cannolis ·········································································· 170Christmas Pot Au Choux Honey Tree································· 173Zabaglione with Fresh Strawberries ··································· 176Zeppoles ·························································································· 179Hawaiian Parfait ·········································································· 182Party in My Mouth Smoothie················································· 185

Others········································································································ 187Sheet Pan Baked Rosemary and Kalamata Black Olive

Focaccia ···························································································· 187Italian Bread Croutons ······························································ 190Italian Bread Crumbs ································································· 193Basil Oil ··························································································· 196Garlic Rosemary Oil ··································································· 199Basil Pesto ······················································································· 202Sun Dried Tomato Pesto··························································· 205Roasted Garlic Pulp ···································································· 208Balsamic Vinaigrette ·································································· 210Basil Cream Sauce ······································································· 212Traditional Basil Sauce ····························································· 215Plain Italian Crepes ···································································· 217Sicilian Pizza Dough ·································································· 219Asparagus and Grilled Onion Frittata ································ 222

Italian Meatballs ·········································································· 225Roasted Garlic Butter ································································· 228Anchovy Butter ············································································· 231Italian Seasoning·········································································· 234Chicken Stock················································································ 237Beef Stock························································································ 240Gremolata························································································ 245Cheese Stuffing for Pasta Dishes·········································· 248