THE 1996 EVEREST TRAGEDY

International University of Monaco –MBA 2010-June 10th 2010 Elisabeth Galbois; Harriet Peralta; Debby Tang.

BUMA613 Human Factors in OrganizationsProfessor David Ansiau

Case Summary

May 10, 1996, eleven people died in a snowstorm on Mount Everest. They died at 25000 feet above sea level, numbing of the brain due to thinner air, solar radiation, hypothermia, altitude sickness. 

The deaths were attributed to a blizzard that plunged temperatures to 40° below zero, causing "white outs"; periods where the snow blows so thickly, it's impossible to see.

The situation:Rob Hall Vs. Scott Fisher

ADVENTURE CONSULTANTS MOUNTAIN MADNESS

Climbed Everest 4 times Same attitude than his rival: “adventure consultant” (commercial goal)

Lead 39 Clients to the summit in 6 years Stole Jon Krakauer (in exchange of publicity in Outside Magazine)

Leading a Party of 8 at the time (1996)Largest team of clients ever

8 people as well/ Hierarchy

Bitter memory from failure in 95 His main guide did not share his perspective: around clients/poorly acclimatized Sherpa

Advertized in mountaineering magz “100% Everest success”

cash strapped business :pressure to perform

I am going to make the right choices… when accidents happen it’s

Many clients were not fit/ dangerous sense of confidence

Methodical, organized, caring and detail oriented.

Fisher is “hurried, unscheduled”, disorganized

Well respected, no problems finding clients

Fisher needed to prove his competitiveness on the market.

Among the climbers were: Rob Hall, the leader of the

“Adventure Consultants” expedition [Dead]

Seaborn Beck Weathers, from Dallas (survived)

Mike Groom, a guide for the Hall Expedition

Neal Beildman, a guide for the Hall Expediton

Andy Harris, a guide in Hall's group  [Dead]

Yasuko Nanba, an experienced Japanese mountain climber [Dead]

Douglas Hansen, a U.S. Postal Service Worker [Dead]

Scott Fischer, leader of “mountain madness” expedition [Dead]

Anatoli Boukreev, the lead guide on Scott Fischer's team (survived)

John Krakauer, writer (survived) Sandy Hill Pitman, a wealthy New

York reporter. Tenzing Norgay, a Nepalese (local)

climber  [Dead]

The road… Climbing the mount Everest is the most

dangerous challenge Right decisions where Key, but biased for

different reasons: Costs Overconfidence Past recent safe weather

Climber focus on rationals: Physical current strength concerns Technical knowledge (ropes/knots) Weather blizzard “white outs” Oxygen need Mental motivation/ confidence/ team bonds

Two top climbers over-commercialized their expertise and personal achievements around the Everest experience.

Two Organizations one same goal:

ROUND TRIP TO THE TOP OF THE WORLD… ALIVE! (?)

HUMAN FACTOR PROBABLY THE STRONGEST ONE IN THIS BUSINESS

Rob Hall and Scott Fischer SWOT Analysis

Rob Hall Scott Fischer

S •Skills & Expertise: -Climbed the Everest 4 times- Successfully guided 39 clients to summit•Positive Attitude & confidence• Management Level:-Detailed—oriented character- Efficient operator• Caring personality• Well-respected by clients & staffs

•Skills & Expertise: Climbed the Everest with minimum oxygen supply•Positive Attitude & confidence• Energetic & Charismatic• Build client’s confidence & self reliance by giving more freedom to clients during acclimatization

W • Client Dependency• No specific turnaround time• Fail to follow his own principle in turnaround time

• No prior experience in guiding a team• Poor judgment in clients capabilities • No clear hierarchal organization –Poor management• Difference in staff’s wages

O - -

T -Stubbornness of team members (e.g. Hansen)

- Lack of confidence & trust in the team leader

Team SWOT Analysis

Strengths Weaknesses

•Skills & Expertise•Positive Attitude & confidence•Organizeddetail oriented(Hall)

• Overconfidence of leaders & clients• Clients not fit• Clients have minimal to no climbing experiences• Team performance based on weakest link• Lack of communication & trust within the team• No moral support and physical guidance- Turnaround time (rule too loose “1 or 2PM”)

Opportunities Threats

•Able to capitalize & share on the team members expertise & strengths• Heroic acts of Sherpa, guides & clients in Camp Four

•Mental & Environmental stressors:• Competition between two teams• Presence of reporters• Clients invested money, time & effort• Probabilities of success vs. failure• Unpredictable deadly weather

• Overcrowding in bottlenecks & routes in Mt. Everest •DEATH!

Leadership

Group Dynamics

Decision Making

Recommendations

Group Dynamics

Create shared values by bringing the team together earlier

Divide the team into smaller more manageable teams and leads to easy communication between members

Qualify Members Allow co-guides & team

members to speak in private allowing a balance of overconfidence thus removing cognitive bias

Leadership & Decision Making

Set rules on turn around time – Be decisive and balance the decisions

Willingly turn around reducing their losses despite their sunk costs

Identify and mitigate environmental and psychological stressors

Force majeure should not be underestimated to avoid recency effect

Thank you for your attention!