the 3rd citadel compendium 1988

7/21/2019 The 3rd Citadel Compendium 1988

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THE

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EDITION

FEATURES

A

COMPLETELY

REVISED

AND

EXPANDED

RULES



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WE-LECIM]E

TCI

TTI]E-

TII]IIRD

ENTADE-IL-

ECIM]FEN]DIIUM]

Compendium

Selection

-

Citadel

produce

many more

for eacll

individual

code.

You

can

find out

about

additional

models

only

by

keeping a close watch on

your

retailerrs

sLock, and

by keepinq

up to

dale via the Citadel Journal

magazine.

The Journal

is

published

irregulary, approxirnately four times

a

year,

arid

contains

a host of

articles

on

gaming,

modelling

and

all aspeL-ts

of

fantasy

models.

The

Journal

also

illustrates

a

selection

of

nerv models

for the

Compendium

Selection,

enablinq

you

to

keep abreasl

of

new

developments in the fantasy field.

We hope

that

you'll

enjoy

the

Citadel

Compendium.

If

you have

any ideas

for

new models,

qames

or articles why

not

drop us a line?

Sadly, we

are unable

to

reply

to

every

sinqle

letter

we receive, but

we'll do our best: an S.A.[. helps. So,

don't delay

-

your

ideas

may

help

shape the

future

of fanlasy models

and

games.. Similarlyr let

us have

your

letters

and artwork.for

publication

- if:we

like

your

contribution we'll

print

it in a futurs

Journal

or

Compendium for

everyone to

see.

Yel

again

the

never-resting

entrails of the

Citadel

Beast have

heaved

forth a

new

edition

of

The Citadel Compendium.

This

edition

is our

most

heavily

illustrated

yet,

simply

brimming with

new

and redesigned models.

Citadel miniatures

are

made

for

gamers

and collectors, each and every

model is hand-crafted

by

our

infamous

design zombies and

brought to

you

via

the

machinations

of

our dedicated, hard-working and

hardly-maltreated-at-all

staff.

The Compendium

is

published

once a

year,

forming

a catalogue of

Citadel

miniatures

that will

remain available throughout

that

year.

This edition

will

remain

good

for

the

whole

of

1986

-

or until

we

decide

to

publish

a

new

edition

(probably

around

the

back-end of

the

year).

This

Compendium

replaces

the

previous

edition, and

models illustrated

in

the old catalogue, but not

in

this

onet may no

longer

be

available: unfortunately,

our

moulds have

only

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short

Iife

span,

and it is

noL

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keep models

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production

forever.

In addition to the

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herein

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C]TADEL

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However these models are not

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Lhe current

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f ll Citadel

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Only models

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Both are.crammed

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fill

Buorimil

Fnilflus

OW

TO

BUITD

A

FANTASY

INN

By

Gory

Cholk

'rllfi-€nrAso\t

wtstY

Fmnffi'r

:::r::-::

is

full

of

inns and

taverns.

The Prancing

Pony

at

$Fqm-

*anx:-=r*":

Silver

Eel

and

the

Vulgar Unicorn

in Santuaryts

\dhe

mq

sL

-l--3,::

and

yet

all

resemble

each

other in

one

respect

-

:t*llim?;r

1:Ef:?-:.

Thieves

go

to

a tavern

to

plot,

wizards

to

seek

mrlld

]rrri:T-*:ir:r.

and

adventurers

to

hang about, look

macho and,

iirnm@fi-lf

--

r::

-.:eC.

Anyone

who is

anyone

will, at

some

time or

M]Inmit'rfler.

--.e

tr

:is

horse

outside

and

swaqger

in to the taproom

lcr..m

=f,-

l:.

.&[

imm'

-i.:t_.

:rr

sees

so rnuch

traffic,

it's

quite

a useful

model

frrm

r

-u-:.:-.

er or

tabletop qeneral

to

possess,

As well

as

ulr.nnil,,rdtr'c

;

,

3^Je

f or the

ever

popular

bar-room

brawl,

it can

rtr'Tril,r[E

= =::i:te1;-\

safe haven during

the BIack-Rider

season and

S,Ne

il-

g.rr:-:el3d

adventurer

a

chance

to

part

with some

of his

rasn.

ll,s

{-::-.j:'lj

any

tabletop

town

or village

will contain

an

inn,

ll.Jm

MK--'a-*e:

:eneral can

use

sr.rch

a

building many

times

to

;[srnr'

@

:

,--?:

range

of battle

scenarios.

'Eul3mr',.mr:

:rr::s

dil.l find

a

tavern's well-stocked

bar

far

more

@ffi,af1

$.

:-=r

fighting

the enemy.

Whether,

as a

general,

yor.r

flTxrurt

r:;i:rr:

'--ris

as an

annoyance

or a welcome

distraction

will

@Brc

r

'--E

:ro.ps

under

your

command.

Who in the

Northlands

ur,i,I

*rer

: : e

i

e chaos

at

the Battle

of

Bugman's

Brewery.

4,

n@ rFa[

:'r-.

stuck

in

the

middle

of a

hotly-contested battlefield

Bern rTr@re

':i

a: irteresting

and

unsual three-cornered game,

with

til,flre rnr+:e::e:

and his guests

taking

on troops

from the

opposing

ilmrries- --r.s

*culd

be especially

true

of

an

inn whose cellars

(use

ffimmtur*

a-r: a

map)

extended

in

all directions

under the

table.

4ttsmrll-r:a:::

:apsters

and

guests

could

pop

up frorn

concealed

sr(rt1lrss

a*

:;er

the

place,

while

intruders

entering

the little-

@d

:.rn'ei:

ard vaults

might

find

all sorts

of

strange

beasts

rLrLfrl*n,rq

t-rer=-

m-ffitil.r|3

Mrn

e ,'s-

:-.r;h

to

your

work-benches,

the

light

of

creativity

hulrmrrnq

bull-:l;

in

your

eye, it

is

best to

do

a little

planninq.

Joi

dihrurr

m

fun

't'-es

under

the

following

headings:

{

L

Size.

Work

out

the

overall size

of

the

model

first.

The tavern

in

the

photographs

is

approximately

23 inches

square, the size

of one

of

my

terain

modules.

Someone

making

their

first buildlrrg

would

be

well

advised

to lry something

a

little more

modest.

Once

you

have decided

the

overall

size,

you

can then

work out

the

number

of

rooms

that

can be accommodated

within the

space. It is better

to

have a

few relatively

targe roorns

rather

than a lot

of

small ones

as

a figurets

base

can

take

up an

awful

lot of

space. A small

tavern

could

have

as

few

as

three

rooms:

the

bar

itself,

a

kitchen

and the

owner's

living

room

-

plus, perhaps,

a

privy

out the back.

One

last

thing

to

remember

about the

size

of

your

model

is that

when

it

is

finished you

have

to

have

somewhere

to

put

it. Don't make

a

model

larger

than

your

storaqe

space.

The

Base.

The

base

of

your

model

should

fit in

with the rest

of

your

wargames

scenery,

both

from

lhe

point

of view

of colour

and

general

texture.

My inn

was

based

on l+"

chipboard

as

are

my

other

terrain

modules.

5maller

models

could use

piywood

or

hardboard.

Donrt

use

card

for

the

base

of

any

model

of

this

size,

as

it

will

warp

and

curl

up at

the edges.

The

stronger the

base,

the

stronqer

the

whole

model

will be.

Time.

The

larger

the

model, the

longer

it will take

to complete.

If

you

donrt

have

a lot

of time,

make

a

small

building. You

cantt use

an

unfinished

model

and

the longer

it is

left

unfinished

the

more

likely

you

are

to

lose

interest

in

it.

Style. As

you

can see

from

the photographs,'The

Man

in

the

Moon'

is

built

in

a western-european

medieval style,

usinq stone,

tiles and

half-timbering.

An

inn

built

in a desert land

or in

a

forest half

way

up a mountain

would be

built

in a different

style using locally

obtained

materials.

A desert

tavern would

probably

be built

of

mud

brick, while

one in a

forest would

be

constructed

solidly of

timber.

If

you

feel a bit

lost

when deciding

on

the style of

your

building,

try

the

junior

reference

section of

your

local library.

These

general.ly

have

lots

of highly illustrated

books on

history

or

iife in other

countries which

can be

very

useful,



MATERIALS

Material

Chipboard/plywood/hardboard

Mounting

card

(available

at

art

shops)

Thin card

(available

at

arl shops)

Polystyrene

ceiling tiles

Use

The base

Walls

and

roof

Roof

tiles

Exterior walls, where the

thickness

of the

wall

can

be

seen. Irregularities

and

hillocks

on the base.

Beams

and door and

window

frames

Chimney

stacks

Paving stones

Stonework

texture

on

walls

Texture for

walls and

base

Gluing together

wood and

card

Gluing ceiling tiles

(other

glues

rnelt

them)

Building walls and base,

Ceiling tiles

(other

paints

may

melt

them)

Beams

and

other

details

Lawn/grass

on base

Base decoration

Base decoration

Balsa

strip

and rod

Balsa block

Plasticard

Tetrion

ready-mixed

plaster

Bostik/Uhu

Wood Glue

(Resin

W,

etc)

Emulsion

paints

Citadel

acrylic

paint

or

Humbrol

enamel

paint

Grass

mat

Ready made trees/bushes

Ready made

fencinq

coi.tsTRucTIoNt

The first

step

in constructing the

model is

to

draw out a rouqh

plan

on

a

piece

of

paper,

with

all

the

dimensions'and door

and

window

positions

marked. This

can save

you

lots of

confusion and

wasted

time

later,

Take

your

sheet of

mounting

card and,

usinq

a ruler

and

a set-square,

transfer

the dimensions

from

your

rough

and draw

up the wall

and

roof

pieces.

Draw

the

windows and doorways

in

position.

It

is

vital

that you

use a set-square for

this

stage

of

the

operation

or

the

pieces

will

be so inaccurate

that

none

of them

will

fit

together

properly.

Using

a ruler

and

a sharp

craft-knife

or

scalpel,

cut the

various

pieces.

Cut

out

the windows and

any

of the

doors

you

wish

to

have

open

on the

finished

model.

I

left

all of

mine shut, using

the

basic

mounting

card to

represent wood,

outlining the

doors

with frames

cut

from strip

balsa

glued

into

position

round

the

edge.

The

next.stage of construction

is

the

woodwork on

the

models.

Use

balsa

strip

for

the door

and

window

frames

and

thicker

balsa

rod

for

the

edges of

the

beams

with

a scalpel

rounding

off

the

sharp

edges

and makinq

them slightly

inegular. This

will

give

them

a

far

more

realistic

appearance

than

if

they are

left with a

'factory

finishedr

look.

Real

timber

framing

often

employed

whole

tree

trunks

with

considerable

twists

and turns.

These

were

then shaped

roughly

with

an adze

(a

mattock-like

carpenter's

tool)

before being

placed

in

position.

Only

in

the

houses

of the rich

were

beams

finished

and squared

off

properly.

Using

Bostik

or

Uhu

the finished

beams are

glued

into

position.

As

rThe

Man

in

the

Moon'

was

rather

large

and

involved,

I decided to

apply

beams

only

to

the

outside

of

the building, the

interior

wood-

work

being

confined

to

doorframes

and

a raised

gallery

in the

main

bar-room.

The number

of

beams

you

put

on

is

up

to you.

Window

and door

frames are also

glued

into position

at this

stage.

The building

walls are

then

glued

into position

on

the

base, again

using

impact

adhesive.

The thickness

of the

mounting

card

allows

the

corners

to

be

simply butted

and

glued.

As

the

whole

structure

is

being mounted

on a firm base,

this

will

prove

to

be

quite

strong

enough.

The

plasticard

should

now be

cut into

a

number

of

rectangles

of

different

sizes,

the maximum being about

half

an inch

square.

These

can then be

glued

in

irregular

groups on the

base

of

the

model,

botlr

inside and

out, to represent

paving

stones.

Any

parts

of

the buildinq with

stone

walls

should also

be

treated

iq the

same

way.

In

addition, the

corners

of

any stone walls

should be

carefully

built over with

plasticard

rectangles

to

give

the

appearance

of

the

heavy stonework

found

on

the

corners

of

real buildings. Not

only

does

this

make

lhe

building

look

more

realistic,

it also

neatly

hides

the

join

where card

is glued

together.

Any other structures,

such as fences,

inn

yard walls,

privies

and

so

on

should now be stuck

in

position

on

lhe

base.

Thin down some

Tetrion plaster with

water

and, using an

old

brush,

paint

the interior

walls, covering any

plasticard

stonework

and

painting

up

to

the

edqes of

the

beams. The

floor should

also

be

painted

over, the

plastec

being used

not only

to create texture,

but

to fill

any

qaps

between

the walls

and

base.

The exterior

base

should now

be

painted

with Tetrion,

using

a thicker rnix than

was

used on

the walls.

While

the

plaster

is

dryinq,

it

can be

quite

a

good idea to

get

on

with the

roofs.

The

mounting card

roof

pieces

must

be liled using

thin

card,

lhis is

the

most boring

bit

of

the entire

model

-

but

it

does

give

a

very

realistic

effect.

First cut the thin card into

strips

about l"

long by

J/8" wide.

You

will

need enough

of

these

to

cover

the roof

area

of

your

model

about

1| times.

These

strips

should

then

be

nicked

every

|"

or

so, with a

pair

of

scissors

to

represent

strips

of

tiles.

These should

then be

glued

to

the

mounting

card

roof

sections,

starting from the

bottom edge and working

up,

overlapping

each successive

row. The

crown

of

the roof

should

be

finished

off with

a folded

piece

of thin

card.

The

whole

structure

can

then

be

painted

wilh

thinned down

Tetrion

in the

sarne manner

as

the

walls.

The

model can

now

be

painted.

For the larqe

areas

of

walls,

roofs

and base,

I

would

recommend using household emulsion

paints.

Not

only can they be used.straight from the

tin, but.

they

carr also be

mixed

wilh

powder

paint

to

give

a

large range

of

colours

and

shades at

a low

price.

Small amounts

of

emulsion

paint

are

available

in the form

of Crown

Matchpots,

samples of

paint

which

contain

enough

for several

buildings.

Beams and

other details

are

best

painted

using

Citadel

or Humbrol

paints,

after the main

areaS

have

been

painted

and dry-brushed

to

pick

out

the

texture.

The

model

is

now

ready

for

any

litlle

details

that

you

feel

would

give

the place

eharacter,

I added some

miniature brewery posters,

but

anything

from

a

pot

plant

lo

a

portrait

of the

Iandlordrs mother

will

make

the

place

look

lived

in.

Citadel

produce

a beautiful

range

of furniture,

beds,

chairs, tables and so on

to

get

the

building

ready

for

opening

time,

and many suitable figues

for scullions,



PAIMTIT

PAINTING REGIMENTS

FOR

l*

:*-

:?s:.

"e:

Citadel

Compendium has always

featured

at

least

:rE::,-::n_c article,

and

the

same

is true of our

quarterly

-::=:

::

tne Journal.

Howevet,

lhese articles

have always

::-r::r-€: thernselves

with the

art of

painting

individual

models

-

:'--=-

::

=

very high standard

indeed. Painting

models

in this

way,

:r€ ::

=

:i-ne,

can

take

forever.

This is fine

if

you're

painting up

r

=:,3.i.lrer

for a

role-play campaign,

or

an

army

general

or

M

r=r:. rjt when il

comes

to

painting

whole regiments

different

:.::--:r,:es

are needed. In this article I'm

going

Lo discuss

:*:r:--::s that

lend themselves to

painling

whole

regiments

:--:<l;

ard

effectively.

PA'{TINE

REGIMENTS

:'i=:::

putting

brush

to

paint,

think

about

what

youtre

trying

to

do.

':'-

:l-nost certainly intend

to

use

your painted

regiment

as

part

of

=

rrr'3r1ammer

game,

or

a tabletop battle

game

of some

kind.

As

:-:'

remember

the following

points:

-.

'.iost

of

the time

your

models will be seen

from

over

two feet

:rray.

Aim to

make

the

models

look

good

from

a

distance

not.

f:c'n

a few

inches. Super-detail

is

not

needed and

may

even

detract from

the

overall

appearance.

:.

Your

models will

be

seen in a

large regirnental

block. The

models

you

choose

will create a sort of

visual

rhythm,

especially

if

they

are

all

the

salrre

-

as with

a Regiment

of

Renown. That overall rhythm

is

an

added dimension

that

you

must

consider.

Don't break

lhat

rhythm by using

too many

Cifferent

colours or subdued shading.

3.

R.egiments

of

models never stand

alone.

They

will

appear

against

other

regiments, scenery and

the tabletop

itself,

Dull

or

sublle

colours

will

simply

vanish

in

sitations

like

thisr

as

rvill

subtle

shading

and minor

detail. Even a

briqht

colour will

appear subdued when

viewed

from

a dislance and

amongst the

usual

rnass

of

tabletop

green:

so don't be

afraid of

using

bright,

strong

colours.

For the

same

reason

avoid

pastels and other

light. shades;

a

primary

colour or a

shade

of

equivalent

strength will

give

a

clearer,

cleaner result.

PRPARII\G TO PAINT

For

the benefit of the

beginner about to

embark upon

the task

of

painting

up

his Warhammer

regiment

I'll run

through

the

basie

materials

needed.

Knife

and

files. These

are

needed

to trim

flash

and

other bils

of

unwanted

metal

from

the

model.

Moulding

lines,

a thin line of

metal

all

the

way

round a model,

can be removed easily

with

a

file.

Vents,

runs

in the

mould

that

let

air out,

may appear as

strands

of

metal

or

nipples

on

points

of

detail and

require

filing or

cutting

flat. A hobby

knife is

sharp,

so remember, make

cuts

away

from

yourself

just

in

case you

slip.

Simiiarly

don't put

too

much pressure

on

the blade,

as

it

may

snap.

Always exercise

the utmost care

when using sharp

knives as

they

are danqerous if

not used

properly.

Undercoat.

All rnetal models

must be undercoated

before

painting.

This

is

essential,

otherwise

the

paint

wontt

stick to the

model,

and

will

appear

thin and mottled.

The most

sensible

way

of

undercoating

rnodels

is to

use

a

car

type undercoat, available

in

spray

cans

from

any

motorist

shop,

garage

and some hobby

shops.

Most

painters

use a

white

undercoat,

which

takes

colour

very

well.

For

mass

paintinq

techniques, however, I

prefer

to

use

a black

undercoat.

Buy

yourself

a can

of each.

Brushes

are a

must.

Good

brushes

are

a worthwhile

investment.

Most. model

shops sell

decent brushes, as do

art

shops.

Yourll need

a 1,

a 0 and a

00.

You can

get

away

with

fewer

brushes, it

depends

on

what you're comfortable

with.

As

long

as

the

brush

has

a

good

point

it will

suffice.

Brushes do

wear out

-

so

be

prepared

to trirn

off stray bristles

and buy a new brush every so

often.

Water-based

paints

are

used

by almost

all serious

model

painters

these

days.

At

this

point

I have

to

step

in

and

plug

our

own

water-

based range of

paint,

Citadel

Colour. We have

gone

to a lot

of

trouble

to

ensure

that

our

paint

is

ideally

suited

to

our models and

I

can

t.horoughly

recommend

it.

Having said

that

any

water-based

paint

will do the

job.

They

all intermix

in

any

case.

Sorne

modellers prefer

enamels,

oils

and other

exotic mediums,

The

advantages of

these older

methods are dubious,

even

when

applied

to individual

models.

It

is

assumed

that

water-based

paints

are

to

be

used.

Pot

-

a

pot (jam-jar,

cup,

beaker,

etc) is

needed

for

water

so

that

you

can

thin

paint,

clean

brushes,

etc.

Many

people

say that

separate

pots

are

needed

for metallic

paints,

for

liqht colours

and

for

dark

colours. If

you

feel happy sumounded

by

jars

of water

then thatrs

fine. In

any

case,

clean

out

your

water

when it

gets

dirty. This

ensures lhat

your paint

stays clean, and

lessens the

chances

of

breeding

deadly mosquitoes

in

the

living

room.

Palette

-

something lo

daub

paint

onto.

An old

plate,

saucer, Lile

or

anything

similar will do,

Paper

is

O.K.

so

long

as

it

isnrt

too

porous.

Space

-

not the final frontier,

but

just

somewhere to

workl

a

tabletop is

fine.

Cover

this with

a

good

thick layer

of newspaper

because,

believe

me, everyone

spills

paint

now and again,

and

getting

the

stuff off

carpets,

tablecloths and

family

pets

isn't

always

easy.

Light

-

the

more

the

better.

Daylight

is best, but

a strong

spot-

lamp or reading

lamp will

provide

adequate illumination.

Remember

daylight

and

artificial light

aren't

the

same at all,

a

model

painted

in

one will look

quite

different in

another.

PREPARING THE MODELS

Line

up the

regiment to

be

painled.

Workinq through

lhem one

at

a

time,

clean

off

any

flash, mould lines

or

other

unwanted bits

of

metal.

There

is nothing more

annoying

than finding

a

huge

patch

of rnetallic

crud once

yourve

started

painting. When

yourre

through

lhe

models are

ready

for

undercoating.

UNDERCOATING

For the

technique

described you'll

need

a black

undercoat.

Make

sure

that the

models get

a thorough

covering.

Il

is

best

to touch up

thin

or

silvery

patches

with

black

paint

just

to make sure.

When

spraying

remember

paint

will

go

everywhere

-

so

best

do it

out

of

doors,

and use

a box

or

newspaper

to cut

down

on

overspray.

Sprav

as many

models

at

once

as

you

can.

Two

light

coats may

be

necessary.

BY

RICK

PRIESTLEY



BAS$\G

Ij

*,:,lels

are

s.loiiebasei

Lh3.l

attaca

the "rcdels

to

Lheir bases

:E}*-

:x::<"

r

s:*,-,

:s

:s

;rod

zs

anr-t'riu,

PA,fr{T}G

lte

:j-E

'.tdet'croa: :s

fur

rrr.l

cail

start ta

paint.

I leave

undercoat

lF:r

S led

a

c.or.tr}l.e

:f

\ari.:rs-

It

js

best

tc

leave

it

overnight

if

;mdbrle-

3"efone

oantinc \ave

a gmd look

at

the

models anJ

plan

1ltjr :ai.*-rs.

VgiJ

c,ptria,bl, trare

an idea

of

what

you

want the

:Eoiment

fo

lmk

like

a_le:dy_

Tire

easiest

.rethod

of

painting

quickly

and

neatly

is

to

paint

severa-l

'nodels

at

a ti.ne,

L0 being

a

convenient

number.

Beqin

by

paintirq

trre

skin

and

work

out:

inner-clothing,

outer-clothinq,

arrl(Irr,

belts,

etc.

5o,

start

by mixing

a batch

of

your

skin coloui.

:aTfully

apply

ttre

paint

onto

the

areas

of

exposed

flesh,

leaving

a

little

of

Lhe

black

undercoat

showing

at

the

edges

and

in

deep

creases

in

tip flesh

{such

as between

fingers),

This

line of

blact

becopg5

your

shading,

and

will

help

to

deliniate

the

different

parts

of

the

model

when

seen

from

a distance.

How

much

black

you

leave

is

up

to

you.

The

amount

of

black

will

create

an

oveiall

style,

or look,

so it is

worth

experimenting

a tittle

at first.

Similarly

the

density

of

your

flesh

paint

will

alter

the

feel of

the

overall

model,

Two coats

applied one

after

the

other

may

be

required

for

a really

solid

appearance.

TJT{IFORMS

AND

NOT

If

painting

uniforms

qive

all

of the

models

the sarne

colol

the

sarne

colour

jerkin,

etc.

If

you

donrt

want

a uniform.

qoing

for

an

assorted

rag-taq

effect,

then

vary

the

bits

you

you

go

through.

This

way the

first

warrior

receives

a brow

the

next

a

brown

jerkin,

the

next

brown

ttousers,

ana

Remember,

if

yourre

painting

a

Regiment

of

Renown

all

models

will

be in

the same

basic

poiition.

It

is best

to pa;

troops

uniformly,

so

as

not.

to

detract

frorn the

strong.

visual

rhythm.

If

you

don't

want

a

uniforrn

appearance

ir

regiment,

then

it

is

best

to use

colours

of a

similar

i.

throughout,

especially

browns, greys

antJ

other

drab

colours-

way

the

colours

will

sit

happily

with

each

other,

and

wor.,

the

regirnent

look

like

a discordant

kaleidoscope,

Colour

something

you

will

pick

up

-

if

in

doubt

have

a

iook

around

:

player's

models,

METALLICS

The

pigment

in

all

metallic

paint

is

relatively

crude

-

compl

suspension

of

ground

metal

powder.

For

this

reason

it

-

handled

carefully,

and

you

may

find

it

easiest

to

leave

until

i

handled

too

much

it

will

tend

to

rub

off.

If

placed onto

o.

n€

paint

it

will

seep,

and the

same

is true

if

you

attempt

to paii

it.

For many years

I avoided

the stuff

altogether,

prefering

shades

of

grey

and

brown.

Then

I

discoverld

Windsor

and

i.

poster

paint

metallics,

which

are

simply

the

best

paint

of

th

and

are

thoroughly

recornmended.

The Citadel

metallics

are

qood

too

and

stand

comparison.

All lhese

are

water-based.

DETAIL

Once

all

of

the colours

are on your

models you

are

finishec

:?SiTunt.

is. ready

for

final

basing

and

varnishing

before

bloodied

in

battle.

If

you

have been

careful

the

ov6rall

appe

is

one

of

neatness

and

clarity

-

a

few

little

touches

r

necessaty

to

correct

the

odd

mistake

here and

there,

or

to

additional

black

shading

on small

features.

If

you

have

the

tirne

you

might

like

to add

a

little

detail

t,

details

as eyes,

claws,

teeth

and

so

on,

Remember

-

your

re

has

to look

good

from

several

feet

distance,

not

from

an

i

two.

If

you

paint

on

too

much

detail

you

will

break

up th

patches

of

colour,

and

detract

frorn

the

overall

appea

Knowing

when

and where

to

apply

detail

is

something

you'l

up.

Eyes

-.

look

effective

painted

solidly

black,

with

a

tiny

dot

of

ln

each

corner,

Alternatively,

leave plain

black.

l.or

a

reall

look

painl

a

bright

red

or

yellow

dot

right

in

the

middie

black.

For.

a

starey, manic,

look,

i"deally

suited

toBerserkers,

Hobgoblins

and

mad

magicians,

paint

a

srnall

whi

in

the

centre

of

the

black.

These

mlthods'wonrt

win

vou indi

fiqure

prizes

at.Games

Day

-

but

they

will

look good

tabletop.

Teeth.

If

the

model

has

an

open

yelling

mouth

leave

the

black.

Paint

tongue,

throat,

eic

red,

ora'nge,

yellow

or

a

colour,

leaving

plenty

of

black

for

shadow.

Ficf

out

the

tee|

white,

or off-white,

Use

a small

brush,

and

try

to

leave

ver

but

solid,

lines

of

black

between

the

teeth.

Wf,ere

tnis is

Jii

wipe

most

of the paint

from your

brush

until

it

is'dry',

now

rr

tip.over

the

teeth

the

pick

out

the

detail,

This tends

to

loo

lndislinct,

but

is

sometimes

the

only

way

of detailing

reall

teeth.

Claws.

Claws

start

off

as basic

black.

They

will

look

best

colour

over

only

the

most

accessible

portion,

leaving

a

good

d

black

at

the

root

of

the

claw

and underrieath.

WnitJ,

yell

grey

are

all

good

claw

colours.

Studs.

Studs,

rivet

heads

and

the like

are

a but

fiddly

to

around.

The easiest

thinq

to

do

is

simply

to

paint

right

over

in.the

surrounding

colour.

For

exampie,'if

you're

painting

a

shield, paint

the whole

shield

brown,

including

any

studs.

bnc

base.coat

is.dry,

paint

each

rivet

with

a blob

of

black,

inclur

Once

you

have

done

the flesh

on

the

l0 models,

work

through

again

qa 1tjng

the

next.

colour,

once

more

leaving

a

line

of

blaet-

to

deliniate

the

colour

area.

You

will

notice

that paint

applied

over

black

always

looks

fairly

dull.

you

must compensate

ior this

by

using

a

brighter

eolour

than

you

actually want, so

an

orange

pe.cgmes

brown,

and yellow

becomes

a

buff

eolour,

To

get

a

reafy

btight

colour

you

must

either

use

two

coats

of

palnt,

oi

paint

the

area

white

before

applying

the

actual

colour.

This is

more

true

of

some

colours

than

others,

especially

red

and

yellow.



':-:..n{.

:. ''.-

=

,-

_-,.. :onsidered

solid colours - a brown

',

:-r

::r:

::1. :_:

i::t

can

add detai.l and inlerest by

r

: r

:

::

:-::,::.

::rti-rolo,.lred

clothing

(like

a

jester's

;

r'

r::

:--:.

:-t,

=.el'reinber,

designs of this kind create

:::

-i

:--:

-.:-

*,si

nJL

qo

aqainst the underlyinq

slrape

'-'::

-

-: '.-:

:-::ern ivili

iend Lo break

up the

form of

:,1:

'-l

Daint, especially over folds and

,--:alried

onto a large area, repeated

:=^ l::k

\,ary effective. When painting

a

---

-^l^.,^^

:^

^^^t-

^rL^-

^^l

-: :olcurs

appear nexl to eaclr other, and

:::<::

e,Jge

to

broaden the contrast. For

.=

r:i

and

wl-rit.e

sLripedr

first

paint

the

:-:- a:ll1

the

stripes

in

red.

Now mix a

r:'

:^: :rin it dolvn

with water. Take

your

::::'-ilv

:aint

a

fine

line on

the

edqe of t.he

:-.

..-.13.

If

you

have

a

spare, clean, moist

-.

r:-:,,'e

slray dark red if it

geLs

onto

the

,:

-.:-:i

ihe

contrast, reproducing the

effect

'

:: .::s:ino colour

worLld

give.

Dry-brushing. This method

is more

i'-in:

..':-

---:

.-:

-:i

:l

useful for mass

paintinq.

Make

up a

iig".

s-a:::i

rl-i::::

colour.

Wipe most

of the

painL from the 5::s-

l::.i^:.-

:r'''

Now

brush over the area to be hiqhlighled,

smali a-::-rs.'

:=---

will

catch in the raised areas

producing

a highii,rli

-'::::i,

-^::

rnethod

lends

to wash out the colours

slighlly,

vrhich

is al:::":

''

that's the

effect

you

want. Dry-brushing

looks

qood

or

'srr'::'."'

troops,

especially Goblins

and their

kind.

SASING THE COMPLETED

MODELS

The

models

are now

painted

and

it only remains

to cornplele

the

bases

before appiying

varnish.

Make sure

all of the

models

are

firmly

attached to their slottabases, and

reglue any

that appear

wobbly. Before covering lhe base with scenic

flock

il

is

best to

paint

a black

area around the model's

feet. This

is

left

clear,

and

makes

tire figule stand out

off

tlre

ground, instead of looking

as if

he's

buried

in it, Now

paint

the rest of the

base

green

-

the

edges

of the slottabase can be

painted green

to

match

your

tabletop'

or

black

to

make them stand out. Our own

models

are

often

lefl with

black edges, as we take

photos

for our

garnes and magazines

they

must appear clear. If

your

troops arenrl slottabased

then

you

ivill

have to rnake

card bases anC

glue

the models to

them.

Once

paint

is dry, blob

srnall arrrounts of

glue

to the top of tlre

base

and

apply scenic

flock. Flock

can be bought from railway

hobby

stores.

Tea leaves

will

do

if

you

paint them

green

once

dry,

and

dry brush

over rvith yellow

lo create depth. Rernember

to leave

a

Iittle

black

around the model's feet.

VARNISHING

Varnish is

needed to

protect

your

finished models, especially if

they are to

see a lot

of hard fightinq, travellinq

and

handlinq.

Paint will invariabley

chip, wear,

or flake off if

you

don't

varnish.

Varnish coines in

spray cans

just

like undercoal

(try

not to

confuse

the two ),

It

can

be bouqht frorn

almosl any rnodel shop or art shop

and

comes in two

kinds

matt and

gloss.

Which

you

use

is a matter

of taste. Matt

varnish looks

more nalural, but

gloss

varnish is far

tougher,

and many

people

find

the

glossy

appearance more

altractive.

Matt

varnish also

seems

to

be

more absorbant,

and

will

atLract

dirt

and

grease,

whereas

qloss

valnish can be

cleaned

or

dusted

more

easily,

If

you

want a

matt finish

it

is best to varnish

with

gloss

first

(for

toughness)

and then again lightly with matt.

N4ost

of our

own

collections

are

qlossy

(having

spent hours

on

painting

and

converting

we try to

protect

our

models

as best

we

can).

However, glossy

models are difficult

lo

photograph

because

of

lhe way briqht

light reflects

from them, shorvinq

up as white

patches.

For this

reason rnost

of the models

you'll

see in

our

rnagazines

are

matt varnished.

Often they receive

a coat of malt

varnish

just

for the

pholo,

and are re-glcssed

aflerwards.

r::

-r:

::qrire shadinq,

t-he

i'rard

sltadinq

prr:vided

:

:

::

:

:

-":::enl-.

iVhen

painLing

indlvidual

rnodels f or

:

.

::::riial, bLrt on lhe tableL,rp it can make the

r:r r. ::jrcinq the visual impacl of the colours.

:=

-'

,..

=-

C sele'tive.iy applie.C, shatling can help

to

.:

-1:=

:: :i

a regi,nent-,

:

r r-:

-: -:::ing

or', rvhatever

yJU

want

to call it,

is the

-.'-:

':: sradirl

regi:nents.

If a nrodel

has

a

'.-::

.-.,s rllthinq

t.hen

this

will Lerrd to look

odd if

.

.

-=:<,::'

shade

of

the

base colour, alrnost

blacl<

:

-:.

:

-:

sicv

cr

brownish

for Iigirt c:lours.

i.low,

:-:

r::13? .vlth

a solid

Iine

-

a single stroke

of

the

" :=.

--:

effecl

is

tit

give

a hard shaclcw. Although

.

-,:

:,rs:

Jp, oncp

on Lhe table it

rvill

appear

far

:

--

-:-

3-\' amount of farcy,

finely-qradated

sharlirrq.

:

.

: :

,,

as'r

mi<

up a dark shade

of lhe

colour

to ite

: ::.vr

vrith a litlle

water. Pairrl

iL on Lo

lhe arBa

:-:

-

rerjiatel,v rvipe

off the bulk of it

(

tissue,

rag,

--=

:a ri ,vill be left in

Lhe crack

and

creases,

: : :

-

:

-

: :,

rr3.

You

,nust

be

caref

ul

when using this

:

-

:

:raCinq will break up the colour arr:as. The

:::

:::::r

rrf

ti-ris techrrique

is to

paint

faces

and

: :

-::-ralj"

craqgy, so

need shacling if

they

are to

..

-

.

-,

r

r',s

rr-.

not

absolutely

essenlial,

but

if

done

E

-

-

-

-'

i),

:

-:lirrlrj

is

rsed to emphasise

a

prorninanf

=

r:,serl line Lhat would natura.lly

catch the

:.:r

rf

i

:ur base co.lour.

That

usually

means

::" liqrier

qreens,

browns and reds with

:i:ri-"

calo,rr

onLo

the

raised

area,

giving

i

l::

rat

^o'

tu 'lvprdr this, noc to fver-

:

-,-:

:--:r:.i.

T1-.

result

must

IoLrk

cledible from a

=

:'

:..,.:.-.

':::,

Tiis

:nelhotl

can be used

to highligtrt

-::

,-':

::,:. :airirr-.

a

pale

stlipe across

Lhe forehead,

..

-'

:-. :

-

-

:-:

::,.,,n ihe rrirlqe of the nose.

l'--

L

BLANCHI

its

alriqhr

for hirn,

he dosrnt have

to

carry the

------

things.

STANDARDS

The

focal point

of any

regirnent

is its standard

-

and

you

wi.ll find

lt

worth

spending

tiine

on this.

The easiest way to learn horv to

paini

a starrdard

is to

copy one. The

work

of mastet

standard

pa nLars.

suclr as David

Andrews

and John

Blanche are well worth coovir:.

John has even painted

a special

set

of

Warhammer standarCs f::

this Compendium,

and

you

can

cut these out and use lhen

fcr

r':::

own

regiments

if

you

Iike.

Aiternatively

copy

thern oui.

-.i:l:::

thern

sliqltlly

trt;troduce

a new

and original design,



NEW@MONSTERS

NEW

DEMON

MIGHTY A-ANGOR THE GIGANTIC BALROG

-

SLAYER

OF

GODS

Most

foul

and deadly

of all

his kind is

the Balrog

Aangor, Slayer of

Gods,

Great Demon

of

the Deepest

Pits

of HelI. Before him

even

Balrogs

and

Demons

quail

in terror,

squealing

pitifully

Iike

squashed

infanbs.

His body

is black beneath

a cake of running sores

and blood-crusted

fur.

His

skin sweats

sickly

scented

blood,

his

foaming

jaws

spit rotting

gore,

and

dark

blood

pours

constantly

from

his ears,

nostril.s

and eyes.

Every inch

of his body is slimy

and

slippery

with vileness.

The

stench of decay

and

putrescent

flesh

that

he

exudes

is

alone

sufficient to

tear

apart

the

mind

of a

mortal.

This is

the least of

Aangor's

powers,

for he

is

also

a

potent.

wizard,

with

dark

and unfathomable

secrets; magics

far beyond

the

scope

of living

creatures.

Special

Rules.

Aangor

can

fly as a lander.

As

a

Greater

Demon he

causes

fear

and

terror

in all livinq

creatures.

He

is immune

to

psychological

effects,

unless

caused

by

gods.

He is

immune

to

normal

weapons.

As a Balroq

he is immune

to all

fire

attacks

and

fire

based

maqic.

He

attacks in

combat

with 6 claws, 3 stomps

and

a

tail-lash.

Aangor can breathe

fire

in

the

same

way

as a Dragon, causing

2D6

strength

10 hits at

a

range

of

lZtt.

He eannot

breathe fire

in

combat.

Aangor

is

a mighty wizard

as urell

as

a creature

of

brule

force

and

unfathomable energies.

He is the

equivalent

to a

level 4

wizard

with

a

Magic

Constution

Level

of

100

and the following

spells.

Level

1

Fire

Ball

Level

2

Aura of Protection

Lightninq Bolt

Smash

Level I

Arrow Invulnerability

Cause

Stupidity

Dispel

Aura

Level

4

Blast

Stand

Still

In addition

Aangor has

a special

spell of

his own Burst Flesh.

Spell

Level

4

Enerqy

15

Description

This spell

may be used against an

individual or unit of

living

creatures within

12"

If used against a unit it

will

effect

up

to

D6

individuals.

Tarqets

have

their

usual magical

saving

thro\xs.

if

they

fail these then

their

living tissues

will

swell, brains expanding to

divide

skulls, bowels heaving

and crawling from

splitting

stomachs,

internal organs exploding

into

a

mass of

tangled, writhing

gore.

This causes

the

instant

death

of

its

victims

-

and surviving

members

of

the

unit

must take an immediate

rout

test.

t-

r/hr

\

r./

/,

4

/r,

'

"t

.

ir',).

"l

NEW

ELEMENTALS

''

,

o ttlu'

'/.,

.1

-'

'.

/.

These new Elemental

types are

further

manifestations

of natural

forces, akin

to

the

basic

elernents

of earth. air,

fire and water.

They have

an affinity

with

one

of the 4 elernents, and

will

not

attacki,

and cannot harm,

other

Elementals of that type,

All

the

general

rules

that

apply

to

Elernentals hold

true

for

these

new ones

(

see

page

47

of

the

Warhammer

Battle Bestiary

).

Basic

Points Value

llfl

LIFE ELEMENTAL

Life

Elementals

are

aliied to

the

flementals of

the

Earth. Unlike

other

Earth

Elernentals, however,

thay are

tall

and

graceful,

as

a

young tree or a

beautif,-rl

woman.

They are

creatures

of

the

growirrg

earth, the

.notivatinq

force

that

gives

life to

plants

and

plant

spirits- As such

lhey

are revered

especially

by

the

Elves

-

who,

more

than a-r;;

other race, are

preoccupied

with living

tlrings,

usefr-rl

plartq

sii'::::latin.g herbs

and other

vegetable

derived

zubstances- R.-.:l:s

a:= l'e

same

as

for Earth

Elementals,

except

that Life ilems-tals

cf

size

5

or

qreater

can cast

a Hedge

of

Thcns soeil father

ilar-

the usual

Assault

of Slone.

M

WS BS s

T

A

Ld

Int ct WP

6 10 10

9

I

20 l0 10

10 10

10 l0

M

W5

BS

s T I

A

Lcl Int CI

WP

10 10

l0

t0

10

10

10

IO

l0 10 10

10



:[:--

-

ai,,i:\TAL

-

"

.:

-

.." :.:-:---.,"

.s

also

allied

to

the Elementals

of

the Earth,

:

-

-::-"::-::

:-:

-::?:ive

side

of

the force

-

that

which reclaims

i

:

'-

-::

-::

ir:

busom

of the earth, enabling

continual

"::

-:-

'::-

:*:::il,

The

balance between

life

and death is

:- : i :

.:..r::::re,

for

each

feeds

the

otherin

a

continuous

, r

-i-

-:-

:-: :':r:.

R':les are the

same

as

for other Earth

-

.-:-:.:

i,:::: :.at

a Death flemental

cannot

use

an Assault

'

.::-: :::

--::aal,

any

Elemental of strength 5 or

more may

, : ::-,,:: :allel

the Squeeze of

Death.

The Elemental

:

-:

,:

-::

:- :^r

:ndividual .livinq

model causing

an

automatic

-

:.'-: :.--:::::iva of toughness

and without

recourse

to

:

':

:--:

: :' :rr

kind.

Range equals

the

Elementai's size

in

-:-::

:

:.

I

=

j".

s:ze

10

=

l0"r

etc

).

This

powet

can be used

in

r :

-::: ::

:-,

=.

-::nal

attacks.

:r_.1.ti,8

:LaL,IENTAL

-- : : : : --=-:aj :f

lhe

air.

Its arrival

can

easily

be

fortold

by

a

::':-:-

:-

:^:Sreeze,

as

of rotting flesh or

garbage.

Rules

::

=:

':: ::-::

Air flementals.

Plague Elemerrtals

can

cast a

$':nl:.H::::,-.

l;<e

other

Air

Elementals,

but note

that

thii is a

:

--,,.:.--

,.,'r.LC. This causes the equivalent

of

I

strength 3

' '-

:=--

..,.^:

:3i'qet effected

by the

blast.

Elves,

because

they

I

:

-::

--

'=si:Jious

if

not

obsessive

about

personal

hygene,

.,-'='

:-:--:-^

J

aits

instead. Victirns turn black,

their tonques

:

-:--:,:..

ski.r blislers and

great, yellow

boils

burst out all

r-JE V

MONSTERS

:F"f,.3:f,t

]r-I-TRTLE

--:

,

-:

--

--r+.le

is

an

aquatic

reptile

which

spends very

little

of

: -: - :-:::.

The

only

occasion these creatures leave

the

sea

::

:

:-:,:

eqgs, whicl-r tl-rey

do

along

sandy beaches,

buryinq

---

:,':.=

::::ppearing

back

into the ocean. At

such times

they

:-i ::--::r:-:

a,rd aggressive, and wil.ling attack

other

creatutes

:-",:irure.

-_.:.-qcn

Turtles Iook like turtles,

wiLh

lhe

head

of a

-

=

-

=-- =

-3rCr

spiky

shetl.

They are over

10'Ionq,

and

may

be

-

r

=:-=..

:a

very

larqest of

lhese creatures

will attack boats

:- r

-

iaaa,

*r'rlll

lislrilrtion.

\'y'orld-wide in

the

oceans and

coastal

regions.

a-rlnnner:

t,'

.::i:al.

So*-al Rules.

iis

Dragon Turtle causes

feat

in all

living

.:-.-.

:?.

--:::

l-'lriall.

its

shell

gives

il

a

basic saving

roll

of

a

5

:- : r- : l:.

-^:.featuae

has

1

bite

and

1

stornp

altack.

tr

a_c_

c

3?of

ile

CTJI-CT{AN

The

Culchan

is

a

hugfe, flightless,

carniverous:::::ta:

l,,e:

-^-

the

pampas qrasslands

of Lustria.

It

is

prized

by Pr:-:::

a':

:,,:--

for its

rnulti-coloured

plumes

and

for ils

flesh,

c:.:::::=:

:

delicacy

by Pyqmies

and Slann

alike'

The

creatures

aie

:(:::-=.

fierce,

but

can

be

used

as

riding

beasts if

hanC :ea:e:.

Consequently eqgs

or

hatchlings are

very

valuable'

Physique.

These unusual

birds

have

strong

legs

and

necksr

vrhiisl

their

head

is

similar

to that of

a

parrot.

Their

beaks are

exceptionally

stronq,

and ean

easiiy

crack

a manrs skull.

Plumage

is

usually

brown,

but

males

in

good

condition grow

a

completel;'

new

set

of colourful

red and

blue

plumage,

as well as

long

tails

and

crests.

They reach

8

-

9rin

height.

World

Distribution.

The

grasslands of Southern

Lustria.

Alignment.

Neutral.

Special Rules.

I

bite

from the

beak

and I

stomp

from

the legs.

Subject

to

stupidity.

Basic

Profile,

Basic

Points Value

I8.

COATL

The

Coatl, or flying serpent,

is a strange Lustrian

creature lhan

figures strongly

in the

legends

of the

SIann. The SIann

associate

the

creatures

with their

God

Quetzacoall, treating

it as

a

sacred

animal.

Coatl are

intelliqent

creatures

and

,'nay

even

be

magical.

they

speak

their

own

ratirer sibilant

tongue.

Physique.

Adults can reach 20'

in length.

They

resemble

large

snakes,

wilh

a head

similar

to that of

a

Draqon

and

large,

feathered

wings,

Sornetimes

their

whole body

can be covered

in

feathers.

The

Coatl

can shed

and

regrow

plumage

in

any

colour

it

chooses,

leaving

a cast of its

old skin

ralher like

thal of

an

ordinary

snal<e.

These are

prized

by the

Slann,

and used

by

them

to

make

ceremonial

cloaks

and

banners,

World

Distribution.

Tropical rain

forests

of Lustria.

Alignment.

Good.

Special

Rules.

Bite attacks.

Coatl are

venomous.

f'ly

as

swoopeni.

Cause

fear in living

creatures under

10ttall.

Coatl can

be

wizards

(

5olo

chance

of any

one individual

being

a wizard

).

Work

out profiles

as

points

as

normal

for

wizards.

Basic

Profile

1l

M

6

WS

j

BS

0

c

4

T

4

?

I

2

A

I

Ld

2

Int

4

CI

6

WP

o

A

Ld

Tnt

CI

u/P

3 3 2 7

t

7 1

M

WS BS

S

T A

Ld int

CI

WP

2

6 n

4 5

3 5

3 I B

I B

Easic

PoinLs

Yalue

i4,

Basic

Points'Value

78,



Within

the

WARHAMMER

Fantasy

Battle

Rules,

you

vri.ll find

al.l

the

information

needed

to

enable you

to

re-create

fanlastic

battles

on

the.tabletop.

Players

take

command

of

powerful

armies,

cunning

wizards

and

mighty

heroes

in

a world

where magic

works

and

thJ

nightmare creatures

of

legend

are deadly real.

To play

WARHAMMER

bittles, you

wili

need

the

rulebooks

in this

set,

a selection

of

models,

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dice.

This

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contains

a small

selection

of full-colour

card

models

to

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you

to

fight

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the

introductory

scenario.

Dice

and

three-dimensional

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are

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King

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- Orc

chieftain

of

the

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-

plans

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his

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of old.

Elves,

dwarfs

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urrite

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but

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iescriptions

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ON TH=

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\1Tl \--

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MEffiililME,-.

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ft''r:llllfi

iTT&:t[-

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Preserrting

the

all new Citadel

Compendium

Selection

of

models,

replacing

the

selection in

prior

Compendiums

and

Journals. The

rnodels

illustrated

within

these

hallowed

pages

do

not represent

the

entire range of Citadel Miniatures

-

the sum

total

of

which would

fill

a tome

of insanely

large

proportions

-

but,

rather,

comprise

a

limited selection

from each

range. The

complete range

of

Citadel

models

chanqes

all of the time

-

with

a

half-dozen

new

models made every

single

working

day.

Although we

would

like to

provide you

with a

catalogue

of

all of

our

hundreds

and

hundreds

of

models

this

simply isn't

possible

Models are

continually

going

out of

production,

moulds

are

perpetually

wearing out and new ones

beinq

made.

Given

this state

of flux, industrial

anarchy

and managerial indecision

we

find

it

impossible

to

promise

that

any

given

model

will

or

wonrt

be

available at

any

given

time.

The models

illustrated

in this catalogue,

however,

will remain

in

production

for

the

life of

this

compendium

(throughout

1986).

We

will

make

a

heroic

effort

to keep these

models

available. Our

gallant

mould-makers

will be

beaten into

producing

however

many

moulds are

necessary

to

ensure that

these

models

remain

available.

Some

of our

workers will

fall

by the wayside, bloodied,

redundant

carcases

littering

our

otherwise unsullied

corridors. However,

the

sacrifice

will

be

worth it.

WARNING

-

PIease

remember

Citadel

models

are

intended for serious

and

responsible

collectors and

gamers

-

they are not

toys.

Models contain lead

which

may

be harmful

if chewed

or swallowed. Citadel

miniatures

are not

recommended

for

ehiidren

under l2

years

of

age.

Most

Citadel

models now come

with a separate styrene

Slotta-base for.gaming

and

display.

Each base has

either

a

pre-cut

groove

to take the

model, or a series

of

weakened grooves

underneath. Use

a

screwdriver

to

push

out

weakened

qrooves

where required

(do

not use the

model

tab

itself

or

it

will

break).

Apply

glue

to

the

tab on

your

model

and fix

to

the slotta-base

as shown. Slotta-bases

provide

a

stable

base

for

your

models and

are ideal

for

displaying your

models

at their best.

Each

model

comes

with

an appropriately

sized and

shaped base, additional

slotta-

bases

can be

purchased

separately

should

you

wish, for

a

mere

2p

for

hexagonal,

20mm

&

25mm bases,

3p

for horse/monster

oblong

bases

and 5p for

40mm

bases,

and

5p

for flying

bases,

/q7

fl

-

\

ll

/-\l

-.

t

-l

-../-/--

Models indicated

come complete

with a separate,

moulded,

hard-styrene

shield;

allowing,

for

the

first

time

ever,

realistic

shield

thicknesses

and

enhanced

three-

dimensional

effect.

Each metal

model is cast with

a

separate

shield

stud.

Attach

the

shiels

to the

stud using

super-qlue

or similar adhesive.

The studs

are cunninglv

moulded

so

that thLy

can be

paintea

Lo represent

a metal

shield boss.

By

1985

vre

will

be makinq

special

shield design

transfers

available

to fit

these clever

ljttle

devils.

You

can

purchase

extra shields

for

1p each.

RequiresAssembly

-

this symbol

indicates ihal

i-=

-::=-

::

-::E-:

:-: :=rf,:

r- :M'i:

or

more

parts.

Such

modeis

rvill

neeC

:c :?

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necessarr

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by Bob Naismith

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RIDER

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CREATURES

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Rat

Pack(s)

selection

of

I

small, 1

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ach

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random

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1

i

2

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Zolzola

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Orienlal

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ROGLODYTES

Desiqned

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Club

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w

WW

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perry

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Alan & Michael

perry

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DEMO

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Amratha

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--

LARGE

MONSTE,R

c29

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Nick

Bibby

"p

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Bird

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Xq

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'€

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4.

Winged

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Dragon

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Elemental

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vrith clear

plastic

base)



Creeping

Young

Dragon

Steathy

Young

Dragon

@,

-LARGE

MONSTER

C29

Desiqned

by Nick

Bibby

Mauling

Young

Dragon

Scorpion

Tailed

Young

Dragon

Horned

Young

Dragon

Jabberwocky

Cave

Draqon

Spined

Young

Drag_on

& Hatchling



DVENTURE

PACKS

c33

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figure

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supplied

with

a random

set.

of

wings



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cit

LONE WOLF

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I1.95

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ELEMENTALS &

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TOM

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FF19

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FF24

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86.95

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f29.95

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youth

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Copyright 1985 Tolkien

Enlerp.ises. THE HOBBITr"and

LORD

oF

THE

Rttlcs'8na

all

character names and

places

therein

are

trademark

properties

of

Tolkien

EnterprisesJ a division

of

Elan

Merchandisinq Inc

Berkeley

California. No

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Uopyright

1985 Tqlkien

Enrerprises.

I HE

HOBBIT'"and

LORD OF THE nltCS'5na

all characLer

names

and

places

therein

are

trademark properties

of Tolkien

Enterprises,

a divisjon

of Elan fr'jerchandisino

Inc Berkelev

Californla.

No

unauthorised

use

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new

Lord

of the Rings

miniatures

are especially

designed

to

complement

games based on

the

works

of

J.R.R. Tolkien.

They are ideal

for

use

with

role-

playing

games,

sueh

as I.C.Ers

Middle

Earth

Role Playinq

Gameror

mass

battle

games

such as WARHAMMER.



SKEI.EION

ORC

RED

DRAGON

DUN@tts@JN,s-

gDRA@@NS'

Miniatures

THIEF ELF

DUNGEON

MONSTERS

BDD2

w:wL

q"',:3

w

,r,*"r,u

Supplted

wilh

cleor plostic

stond

#&

,ANI

rtRE

aErltrsr

MAGIC-

USER

GIANI

IOAD

BDDlO



;-'

(

NOTLOB'S

ORC

ARTILLERY

RR14

Desiqned

by

Alan & Michael Perry

ffi

ffi

usician

W

ffi

$&

rrrr

DISCIPLES

OF

THE

RED

REDEMPTION,--

RR16

Desiqned

by Jes coodwjn

Musician

Champion

DESPOILING HOBGOBLINS

OF

THE

DARKLANDS-

RR15

Desiqned

by Jes Goodwin

Champion

Standard

Champion



IN

Tr-rE U.S.A. FROM

THE

FASA

CORPORATION

i

,

STO] KLINGON D-7

S

(BATTLE

CRUISER)

/Gi'wt

w

T15 ROMULAN

WINGED

(cRUtsER)

DEFENDE9

STO]

U.S.S.

ENTERPRISE

(NEW STYLE CRUISER)

Star Irek is a trademark of Paramount

Pictures

Corporation

and is used under

Star Trek

Miniatures

are

designed for use with Star Trek- The Role

playing

Game

exclusive license

copyright 1984 Paramount

Pictures Corporetion

all

riqhts

and

Star Trek

Ill Combat eame

and supplements FASA inc

1985.

resefved

AVAILAALF IN

THE U.S.A.

FROM THF

FASA

CORPORATION

W

%._

w

WW

W

ffiM

*iw

ffi%

Cyberman

MINIANNES

ffi

imelord

4th

Doctor

Dalek

Dr wh&BC

tge5

&t"kpT""""y Nation

I9B5

@

Dr Who Miniatures are

produced

under license

from the

FASA corporation

and are

desiqned for use with

the

D. Who

Role Playing Game FASA Corporation l9B5

2000

ADs

NDTfiDREDD

A TITA\/CITADEL

CO-PRODUCTION

ffi

Judge

Anderson-

l- rDt Judqe

Dredl

,l

JD]

PERPS

cl

t:

the

Club

Spug

Slatt

Ramperpo Spit-gun

Suzi

Blocker Chester

Zermac

Blaster

Bellamy

Judqe

Dredd Miniatures

are designed

for use with

Judqe

Dredd The

Role

playinq

Came, produced

by Games Workshop

Ltd under

license from

tpC Magazines

Ltd.

ve

Judge Dredd,

The Chronicles of

,

and Judge

Dredd Monthly

published

by Titan

Books Ltd. 2000AD and Judqe Dredd are.@lPC Maqezines Ltd 1982



-DRAGONS-m-

Designed

by Tom Meier

NOT FOR SAI F IN I J.S.A.

DG 2

Red

Draqon

@

X

oc

6

Zombie

Dragon

DG

7

Green

Dragon

DG

I

oriental

Drago"

@

jW{$

DG I Blue

Dragon

DG

5

Fire

Dragon

DG

4

Black

Dragon



.,.:,:'':t;,/

I :aa:i:il

rjAria:F

TA2 DWARF

JUGGERNAUT

@

ROG

Al

MIGHTY

A-ANGOR

THE

GIGANTIC

BAL

SLAYER

OF

GODS

WW@

CIiEW

OF THE JUGGERNAUT

t:;r..:i:::i:

Ft

K

TA]

CRC

WAR

WYVERN

TA4

ORC

WAR

MACHINE



TA5

WAR

EAGLE

SAATOR GIANT

DEMON OF

EVIL

No

creature b.oods with

trlack

evil as does

Saator,.and no other

creatures

does he dispise

more than

the

pathetic

race of hum€nitv"

His rralice

is botLomless, his

hatred

a deathly

palor

that

qlows

black

upon

his rank and

leprous

hide. He couid destroy humanitv

if

he wished.

Bul Saator

is far

too sublle,

and far'too

cruel, Lo

merely

slay mankind.

That would

be too

easy too unsatisfyinql

qadlor

t

^o^c

' 'al

l-Fr.

orF

tFfroI

ho.

.F

L^€n oor--,

-orror"

no,

profcund

Lhan

the

maw

of oblivion,

agony

a thousand times

more

inLense

than the death

raLlle.

No

-

instead

he deliqhts

in the

corruDlion

of man,

pleasures

in

the

dance

of deathi in the wa. and

hat.rd

and cruelty

that he

seeds

in humanity.

These are emotions

he knows

well;

emotions

that

could b-^ read

in his

qleaminq yellow

eyes were

there

a creatu.e

that dare

look. But few livin.

creatures

couid

survive the

stare of hatred

in that face.

or breati

l

6

a

i3l6d

€ir

rr

.orr

tption

thar

;s. rps

fror

tLat

roul

I

uz7lo.

A

few that

tried would

be lucky

enough to

die, More likely they

would

themselves

become

twisted

with

bitterness, turned

upon

lheir

own race and

driven insane

wiLh lust

for death and.arnane_

Special

Rules.

Saalor can

fly

as

a Mopea. As a Greater Demon

he

causes fear

and terror in all

living

creatures, Hs

is

immune

to

psycholoqical

effects, unless caused

by

gods.

He

is immune to

normal weapons. He attacks in combat

with

t0

stomps.

Saator's breath

is

so intensely

evil

that

it is

poisonous

to

anv

ordinary living

creature.

This may

be brealhed once

per

torn

aqainst

any unil

or

individual

within

6",

and will effect up

to D6

troops. Targets must make

a savinq throw

of a 4, 5 or 5 cn a D/

or

TA5 EMPEROR DRAGON

TA7 CHAOS BATTERING RAM

M WS RS s

T

Ld Int C]

6 10

'10

7 7

15 t0

10 10 LO

10

l0

TAB SA-ATOR-GIGANTIC

DEMON

LORD



PINED

DRAGON

KEGOX,

THE

KEVIN

PEAT

DRAGON

NB2

DFAinnFd hw

\ri^t

RihH-

F

50olo

of

Citadel Miniatures

profits

from the

sale

of this

model

will

be donated

to

{

theTTELECTRIC

BED

APPEAL"

for

the Cameron

Ward

of the

Orpington

General

Hospital.

these

models

require

advanced

modelling

techniques

and

are e

It to assemble

than our

usual multi-part

models.

NB1

t".,n".n

bv

Nick

Ribby

Desiqned

by

Nick

Bibby

.

.

tt'



Goblin Hero

MIGHTY

UGEZOD'S DEATH COMMANDOS

BC4

Designed

by

Nick

Lund

''

'\,

Hobgoblin

Berzerker

Miqhly

Ugezod

(Giant

Orc)

Mutant

Goblin

Belly'

iant Black

Orc

Hobgoblin

Warrior

MICHAEL

MOORCOCK'S

'ETERNAL

BCs

i)esiqned

by

Jes

Goodwin

CHAMPION'

This

boxed

set

contains

l)Elric

Kinslayerx

2)

Moonglum

*

J)

Corum

*

4)

Erekose

5)

Ulric

5)

Jerry

Cornelius

7)

Elric

White

WoIf

B)

Hawkmoon

x

Models

illustrated

eiqht

models

Elric

Kinslayer

We are

proud

to

present

the

first official

25mm

scale

models

of

Michael

Moorcock?s famous

hero in

some

of

his many

guises.

All characters

copyright

Michael

Moorcock@

1985

Moonglum



IILONE

WOLF:

GIAK

ATTACK_

LWI

Desrqned bv Aian

&

Michael

Perry

:

t

t

I

t

ln-

I

t

t

I

t

t

I

MANUFACTL]RED

UNDER

LICENCE FROM CARY

CIALK

AND JOE DEVER

TO ACCOMPANY

HUTCHINSON'5

PAPERBACK SER]ES.

Giak

Standard

Gorgaz

Sir

Pelethor

Manic

Giak

Angry

Giak

Giak

Attacking

Giak

Spear

-=,THE

FELLOWSHIP

OF

THE

RING

BMEl

t)esiqncd

r'rv

Aly

f/orrison,

Bob N:isrnirh

t

/

The P-.rr

Tf'n5

W

W

rodoY

MerrPC

Biil

X

the

Pony

Aragorn

Legolas

Boromir

Copvright

1985

Tolkien

FnLerprises.

THE

IOBBITIMan,J

LORD r)F

THE etf.:CSrHna

all

characler

names

and pl€ces

therein

arL:

Lrademark

properti-.s

of Tolkien

[nterprises,

a division

of

Elan Merchandjsina

Inc Berketev

Ca]ifornia. Na

unauthorised

use

permiLted.

Citadelrs new

Lord of

the

Rinds

miniatures are especiaily designed

to

compleinent

games

based

on the works

of

J.R.R.

Tolkien,

lhev are ideal for use with

role-

playing

garres,

such as I.C.E's

Mid.'le

Larrh

polc pta\

Lnq Game,or

mass

battle

qames

such

as

WARHAMMIR.

Giak

Bow

Gandalf

Aragorn

Legolas



t

jlt

,)

-CHAOS

CHIMERA

-:n

CM1

Designed

by

Nick Bibby

W

tffi

w

"*,.;"..+...

....

";4^;:

:.

w#

'9''

'"1'1

,&

.

d

Supplied

with

a random

selection

of

I

heads and a

tail.

ARGANTUAN

FIRE

GIANT

LORD

CMz

Desiqned by

Nick

Bibby

The Gargantuan

Fire

Giant Lord is surely amonqst the deadliest

of

all

foes, tough as a draqon

and resilient as a demon

-

yet

cunning

as

any human.

His skin

is

firey

and red,

his

eyes inflamed

wilh

piercing

yellow

lights, and his voice

cracklinq and spitting

like a

cauldron.

His

armour is of bronze, and

all of

his ornaments of

copper.

His weapon is the triple

spiked

death-rake,

a

mighty and

fearsome

device

in his capable hands.

Special

Rules.

The Fire

Lord

causes

fe&

and

terror

in

all livin.l

creatures. He is immune

to

psychological

effects, unless caused by

qreater

demons

or gods. In

addition he can breathe

fiie

once

per

tu.n against any unit or individual within

6rr, and will effect up to

D6 troops. Targets must

make a savinq throw of a

4, 5 ot 6 on

a

D6 or are

instantly

slain.

DRAGON

TOAD

M

WS BS s

T

Ld lnt

CI

l0 t0

1

7

I5

tn

10 t0

l0

10 10

Desiqned

by Nick Bibby



ffi

MTNIATURES

BLACK

OR

Nl1

5

a

$\

{

s

$*

:l'

.l'

ard

rir$

^'dS:

Gu

Glaive

Killer

--HOBGOB

Bowman

ffi

lasher

Mace

Great

Axe

Pole

Axe

Chief

tain

Hero

Slicer

Champion

Soul Stealer

Dwarf

Maimer

Spearman

Skin Eater

laver

Mangler



Nick

Lund's

MINIATUNES

OBOLD

N13

Knee

Ripper

Shield Wielder

Maniac

Biqchest Chief

Ear Chewer

Stomach

Slitter

ANT

OGR

N14

Dwarf

Defiler

Bone Crusher

Man

Sticker

Club

Crusher

Chest

Poker

Man

Masher

Hobbit Slicer

Spike

Kicker

Arm

Taker

roin

Ripper



Nick Lund's

MTNIATURES

ORC

WOLF

RIDERS

I

Mangle

f e@:ix.

/

ffi|w" ,f

zoffiW#

-tr

w*pi'ffi.

.{-

r

W

w\\\&r*

*

;ifu,{ W*

r..ff

@@

"Spiker

dW

*.

#ifr..&t

:&WEI;,iE

W*"

ffi

.#'ww

{ru

'&

Black

Mane

Uglv

Spear

Stabber

Mace

Arm

Dwarf

Annilator

Blackcoat

K

Red

Eye

Y

Death

Mane

CAVE

GOBLINS

Ed

Smasher

Dwarf

Fiend

t

Elf

Hater

rW,

Sureshot

%w

%.*

Strong

gact<

K

Wolffriend

Elf

Catcher

Orc

CarrierY

Foot

Chopper

Spiker

Strong

Bow



The

insane ravings

of

a million

tortured souls can

but compare

palely

to the

gibbering

enthusiasm with which

you

responded to our

previous

competitions.

This

tirne

we

expect -.even

greater

thinqs

Our fortunate Halfling friend here

has

captured a mighty

Chaos

Battle Banner

-

all

you

have

to

do is rack

your

mutated

brains

and

come up

with

a

suitable

design.

The

infamous

Citadel

staff

artists

will

judge

your

efforts. They have

been

freshly lobotomised

so

that they can survive

the

excitement

of

opening

all of

your

entries. Due to this

sensible

precaution

we

will not

be

able to read letters or

pass

on mail orders

-

so

please

send

your

entries

separately

from

any

other stuff

(mail

orders, enquiries, death-threats,

etc).

Please

remember,

we

are

unable

to return entries

(lhe

post

office refuse to touch

anything

once

our staff

have had

their

paws

on

it).

Send

your

entries

(and

no

treacle

under any

circumstances) to:

NAME

ADDRESS

AGE



BNN€FLIL BNI1N€R5

RC il.',t,T*NERS

- CUT

OUT

=a. -a'-

^-a:_s

ao', lhe screaminq

anii clamo rinq

has

raaled

a:.,..

a'.?

-rcrL\

fortress that is Lhe Citadcl Art Department.

-_?

s3-::

.. ld

ailv

qo

on

for so lonq

(w-.

ran

cut

of tea) and

so

..,:'. ? :e.ided to

qive

in Lo Lhe ina.ticulaLe demands of

an

r"s3:rarle

public.

So here they are

-

the first in what v/e intend lo

tre a

.cL ing

selection of banners, especially desiqned by

Lhe

lnf3mous

Garv

Chalk and John Blanche flr Vy'arhammer

players,

modellers

and converters. Cut

out

your

chosen

bann-.r usinq

scissoas

or a sharp

knife,

glue

youi

banner around

a

s itable

caoss-

pole

and fix onto

the slandard bearer. To

give

lhe banner a

more

realistic v/ind-blown

effect,

you

can bend

folds into

Lhe

paper

b),

rollinq arDUnd

a brush

handle

or

pencil.

To increase the strengLh

and durabilitv of

your

banner

you

can

qlue

it to a tin-foi1

backing,

this v/il1

make

it easie.

to

make

qood

folds too.

__-'-(

k

"At

*\<=;t

Filry

t __l

@l

:=*=t

+

I

THE BANNERS

Frorn

left

to riqht

Top

row

Alklz-Altza

Dwarf

l-ord of Ruin

The Mad

Doq Goblins

of

Croqq Boweltearer

The 5to t-hearts

of Nuln -

warrior men of cou

Eathrin

Captain of the Sea

Gates

of

Lothern

Middle 1ow The

great Chaos battle-banner

of RedempLion

Muggo

-

Bsastman Raiders

of the Empire

Hrothyogqrs

Horrible

(l Fe

Pay-swords

Bottom row Orc banner

of the Great

Cyciops

God

The

Chaos

legions of

Wild Hrut

Knights of the

Sacred

Page

SkeleLon

Warriors

of

Lhe

Abyss

FLAGS

FOR



Tn

7He

7TllFreeNT'H

yeAR,

oF

rHE

J

ASIEN

oT

KING

z.oLTAN

oF

PR,AAG

,HC

VlLE

FOR,C€S

OF

CHAOS

SWEPT

AOUTH

THPoUaH

NOS,$CA TO 7HE

BOPDERS

OF

KISLEV ITSELF,

ANP

TT(€AE.ON

7HE

OPEEN

BANKg

OF

THE

LYNSK.

ZOLT^NS

AR./AY

ENCACCD

7HElR

-

HELL-SPAWNEO

FOE.,.

-r-v\:

.

FOUL

\

FI€NDS

OF CHAOS:'

YOUB.

BREED

WILL

NEVER.

TAINT THIS

LAND

WHILE

ONE

MAN

OF

PRAA6

.

STILL

LIVES:

ryL\

S,d

o

\

r..,

)i

P/

,

,l

/,

1,,

/.

'-.

\-.\/\'

o

''/:,:

'

^,

./

t../

t

/-4'/-"'

73



N'

IN PALACE

PR.AAC,ZOLTAN'S

6RAND

WIZAR.D,

WALPURErc_

f*"F

Y*'"*.\

^AE

BED-R.ID

\

AND

WITLESS

TO

SENDTHE^A

HEF.E

lILL SHOW

THEM THERETS

LIFE

IN THIS /

\

ottPt+?u

^l

'

wtND

I

SLOW:RAIN

FA;VVIFttue

eoNauue

TH€M

./

?*x

3_f&l)

waA

-9."..2<



N

OV€R,

THE

FRAY,THC

sKtes

oPeNeP

-

\rax

)X.M'

f{nL'l

aft

uT

ove

rHERe wAs

wHo

lIF

5ffi38",i7[8

fr

d',m'Zi*

WCAI

THE

A/VIULET

OF

8R,AS8-

NAONCD KHOR,N€

?

Hts

utMe

wns

SLEBAN FOULHEART-

iliil

lll

coMe

BACK,

YOU

. / ^EN:

TAE

KfN6

PR.OTECT

THE

AND

EVEN

THC BATTLE-

HAADENED ROYAL 6UARD

ruR.NED

TO

FL€E_

HIS

BLADE

WAS A

WHIRLWND

THAT- CL€AVED

A

SWATHE

OF

DEATH

EEFORE

H//IA-

,i>

l

-\

['.]

'

ecooo

FOE

7H€

4OOD-

6OO.t

r

,W,Ud'K"

-78492.'"



ttl'

l/l

'you

FteHT

LIKE A

POXY

'

_-{ &\r

/

Y,f

-\.

"

,ook.*(r

,

/

-\)--

N\V



'cciD;' '--'----

-^4LL

ONC_ A

FOLLOWER.OF

,tlALAL,

THe

ReNe6A9e

He ls A

DooMeo

li;;f

'lrcM

KALCBIS

MUT-ANT STEED ATTACK€D-

----\\\

'N['],fT,;x

\x

w

,M

(N)

rri,s'f,\l

&;,f

1/;At

vffi

\\g



l\

\

\\

\

N

@

%

--'4fi1

5:-

-.t-:-4



FORer$o9T'/ntDgT

SLAUOHTER,

WAS

KALEB

DAARK

a

sT-oP

\

AR6UIN6:

GO] FETCH

HIAA

I

/\AUST

Seg Ht/\A

tu

L-4,

-<-4



Z

C-CERIAINLY

\

8R... AS

YOU

KNOW.

PRAA6

HAS WON A

VIC-I-ORY_

LARGELY

THANKS

T-O

YOU I

\

oF couRse

I

-/

.

BUT

CHAOS

\

rs

sTRoNc.sooN

THERE

WILL@AAE

THE

FINAL BATTLE

_AND

THEN

PRAA6

r

WILL

FALL.

,/

vt

I

Z

'n'"?NR^e'"

\

ABKesr

HouR.

\

THe

6ODD€88

A&IANKA

SHALL

R.tse

ERO/\A

THE

DEAD.

AND

gHe

SHALL

s/Vne

THe

HOilDeS

oF

cHAoS

AND

DRIVE

THEM

FR.OM

\* ""J,oND

FoRl

Z

YOURBOOK \

OF

ANCIENTSJ

NAU6HT-

BU.I-

FAIRYT-ALES J

IFTHIS

IS WHAT

YOU

HAVE

CROUGHT

ME

\

HeRe FOR.-

/

BO



7He

aoooe8,9

AR.IANI<A

/

,a/'3

T-

\-\

fu.-;,g,

w4;

,/

sHe

wAs

\

FOUND

BV /\AY

6R.ANDFATHER..

WALPURCIS

THE

/ALPURGIS

THE

DIG6ER..

A

PRJCE-

LESS

6IFT

TO

US

FR.O/\A

THE

ANCIENTS.BUT

ALAS,

USeLeSS .

\ To'us .. . I

,(/2

/...FoR

'rr/'e

\

CRYSTALT€Y'

\

WHICH

WILL

RELEASE

HER.HAVE

LONG

SINCE

PASSED

INTO

THE KEEPING

.

oF

evtL

HANDS-,

/'fi,,\.

L\\

lklli\€



{

'

UTHER.E

SHALL

CO^AE

\

A_CHAf\AP|oN-A

AAAN

OF

CHAOS,YET

NOT OF

gHAOS.

DAR.K

HIS

DeEDS,

CUT

DAF.KER

HIS

gOOI\Ai

AND

HE SHALL

SEEK

OUT

THE

CRV6'I-AL

KEYS AND

WREST

THEAA

FRO,\N

./

THE

CLUTCH

OF A

\

eVlL..."

fR\'

'zzz.un(

*

4

t/t,,,^\:;

lr

1/

/rr

/ THERE_YOU

(

sge:

He

HAs

seNT

\

YOU

TO US:

I

TTilNk

t

KALeB

DAARK-

YOUR

OWN

6OD HAS

cHoSeN voul



MSE

:

the 3rd citadel compendium 1988

Documents