the analysis of yarn and fabric properties of second...

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Tekstil Teknolojileri Elektronik Dergisi Cilt: 7, No:3, 2013 (15-29) Electronic Journal of Textile Technologies Vol: 7, No: 3, 2013 (15-29) TEKNOLOJİK ARAŞTIRMALAR www.teknolojikarastirmalar.com e-ISSN:1309-3991 Bu makaleye atıf yapmak için Yılmaz D., Büyük L.,Topuz Z.,“İkinci Jenerasyon Kompakt İplik Eğirme Sisteminden Elde Edilen İplik ve Kumaşların Özelliklerinin AnaliziTekstil Teknolojileri Elektronik Dergisi 2013, 7(3) 15-29 How to cite this article Yılmaz D., Büyük L.,Topuz Z “The Analysis of Yarn and Fabric Properties of Second Generation Compact Spinning Systems” Electronic Journal of Textile Technologies, 2013, 7(3) 15-29 15 Makale (Article) The Analysis of Yarn and Fabric Properties of Second Generation Compact Spinning Systems Demet YILMAZ, Leyla BÜYÜK, Zehra TOPUZ Süleyman Demirel Üniversitesi Tekstil Mühendisliği Bölümü, 32260 Isparta/TÜRKİYE [email protected] Abstract In this work, it was analysed the yarn and fabric properties of RoCoS spinning system which is accepted as a second generation compact spinning system. There are many works regarding with the comparison of compact and conventional ring spun yarns. In these works, different compact spinning systems such as K44, Elite, AirComTex700 etc. were widely used. However, mentioned compact spinning systems work on pneumatic condensing principle. RoCoS is another compact spinning system. The system was introduced to the spinners after the present compact spinning systems and hence it was called as second generation of compact spinning system. Contrary to first generation pneumatic compact spinning systems, RoCoS compact spinning system works without air suction or air pipes. Condensing is realized by magnetic compactor. Therefore, system differs from pneumatic compact spinning systems with its magnetic condensing principle. In this study, it was determined that RoCoS compact spinning systems give similar yarn and fabric properties with that of other compact spinning systems in spite of the different condensing principle. Therefore, it could be said that condensing realizing by air suction or magnetic compactor is significantly effective to get better yarn and fabric properties. Keywords : RoCoS, compact, conventional ring, magnetic condensing İkinci Jenerasyon Kompakt İplik Eğirme Sisteminden Elde Edilen İplik ve Kumaşların Özelliklerinin Analizi Özet Bu çalışmada, ikinci jenerasyon kompakt iplik eğirme sistemi olarak kabul edilen RoCoS kompakt iplik eğirme sisteminden elde edilen iplikler ile bu ipliklerden örülen kumaşların çeşitli özellikleri analiz edilmiştir. Kompakt ve konvansiyonel ring ipliklerin iplik özelliklerinin analizi konusunda literatürde pek çok çalışma bulunmaktadır. Bu çalışmalarda, K44, Elite, AirComTex700 gibi farklı kompakt iplik eğirme sistemleri yaygın bir şekilde kullanılmıştır. Ancak, adı geçen kompakt iplik eğirme sistemleri pnömatik yoğunlaştırma prensibine göre çalışmaktadır. RoCoS, bir diğer kompakt iplik eğirme sistemidir. Sistem, ikinci jenerasyon kompakt iplik eğirme sistemi olarak iplikçilere tanıtılmıştır. Birinci jenerasyon kompakt iplik eğirme sistemlerinin aksine, RoCoS kompakt iplik eğirme sistemi herhangi bir hava emişi olmaksızın çalışmaktadır. Yoğunlaştırma, manyetik olarak gerçekleştirilmektedir. Bu nedenle, sistem manyetik yoğunlaştırma prensibi ile pnömatik kompakt eğirme sistemlerinden farklılaşmaktadır. Çalışmada, RoCoS kompakt iplik eğirme sisteminde farklı iplik numaralarında kompakt iplikler üretilmiş ve iplik özellikleri aynı şartlarda üretilen konvansiyonel ring ipliklerle karşılaştırılmıştır. İplik özellikleri yanında, söz konusu ipliklerden elde edilen örme kumaşların çeşitli özellikleri de incelenmiştir. Çalışma sonunda, farklı yoğunlaştırma prensibine göre çalışmasına karşın RoCoS kompakt iplik eğirme sisteminin diğer kompakt iplik eğirme sistemlerinkine benzer iplik ve kumaş özellikleri verdiği belirlenmiştir. Bu nedenle, manyetik yöntemle ile gerçekleştirilen yoğunlaştırma önemli derecede daha iyi iplik ve kumaş özelliklerinin elde edilmesi üzerinde etkilidir. Anahtar Kelimeler: RoCoS, kompakt, konvansiyonel ring, manyetik yoğunlaştırma

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Tekstil Teknolojileri Elektronik Dergisi Cilt: 7, No:3, 2013 (15-29)

Electronic Journal of Textile Technologies Vol: 7, No: 3, 2013 (15-29)

TEKNOLOJİK

ARAŞTIRMALAR

www.teknolojikarastirmalar.com e-ISSN:1309-3991

Bu makaleye atıf yapmak için Yılmaz D., Büyük L.,Topuz Z.,“İkinci Jenerasyon Kompakt İplik Eğirme Sisteminden Elde Edilen İplik ve Kumaşların Özelliklerinin Analizi” Tekstil Teknolojileri Elektronik Dergisi 2013, 7(3) 15-29

How to cite this article Yılmaz D., Büyük L.,Topuz Z “The Analysis of Yarn and Fabric Properties of Second Generation Compact Spinning Systems” Electronic Journal of Textile Technologies, 2013, 7(3) 15-29

15

Makale (Article)

The Analysis of Yarn and Fabric Properties of Second Generation

Compact Spinning Systems

Demet YILMAZ, Leyla BÜYÜK, Zehra TOPUZ Süleyman Demirel Üniversitesi Tekstil Mühendisliği Bölümü, 32260 Isparta/TÜRKİYE

[email protected]

Abstract In this work, it was analysed the yarn and fabric properties of RoCoS spinning system which is accepted as a second generation compact spinning system. There are many works regarding with the comparison of compact and conventional ring spun yarns. In these works, different compact spinning systems such as K44, Elite, AirComTex700 etc. were widely used. However, mentioned compact spinning systems work on pneumatic condensing principle. RoCoS is another compact spinning system. The system was introduced to the spinners after the present compact spinning systems and hence it was called as second generation of compact spinning system. Contrary to first generation pneumatic compact spinning systems, RoCoS compact spinning system works without air suction or air pipes. Condensing is realized by magnetic compactor. Therefore, system differs from pneumatic compact spinning systems with its magnetic condensing principle. In this study, it was determined that RoCoS compact spinning systems give similar yarn and fabric properties with that of other compact spinning systems in spite of the different condensing principle. Therefore, it could be said that condensing realizing by air suction or magnetic compactor is significantly effective to get better yarn and fabric properties. Keywords : RoCoS, compact, conventional ring, magnetic condensing

İkinci Jenerasyon Kompakt İplik Eğirme Sisteminden Elde Edilen İplik ve Kumaşların Özelliklerinin Analizi

Özet Bu çalışmada, ikinci jenerasyon kompakt iplik eğirme sistemi olarak kabul edilen RoCoS kompakt iplik eğirme sisteminden elde edilen iplikler ile bu ipliklerden örülen kumaşların çeşitli özellikleri analiz edilmiştir. Kompakt ve konvansiyonel ring ipliklerin iplik özelliklerinin analizi konusunda literatürde pek çok çalışma bulunmaktadır. Bu çalışmalarda, K44, Elite, AirComTex700 gibi farklı kompakt iplik eğirme sistemleri yaygın bir şekilde kullanılmıştır. Ancak, adı geçen kompakt iplik eğirme sistemleri pnömatik yoğunlaştırma prensibine göre çalışmaktadır. RoCoS, bir diğer kompakt iplik eğirme sistemidir. Sistem, ikinci jenerasyon kompakt iplik eğirme sistemi olarak iplikçilere tanıtılmıştır. Birinci jenerasyon kompakt iplik eğirme sistemlerinin aksine, RoCoS kompakt iplik eğirme sistemi herhangi bir hava emişi olmaksızın çalışmaktadır. Yoğunlaştırma, manyetik olarak gerçekleştirilmektedir. Bu nedenle, sistem manyetik yoğunlaştırma prensibi ile pnömatik kompakt eğirme sistemlerinden farklılaşmaktadır. Çalışmada, RoCoS kompakt iplik eğirme sisteminde farklı iplik numaralarında kompakt iplikler üretilmiş ve iplik özellikleri aynı şartlarda üretilen konvansiyonel ring ipliklerle karşılaştırılmıştır. İplik özellikleri yanında, söz konusu ipliklerden elde edilen örme kumaşların çeşitli özellikleri de incelenmiştir. Çalışma sonunda, farklı yoğunlaştırma prensibine göre çalışmasına karşın RoCoS kompakt iplik eğirme sisteminin diğer kompakt iplik eğirme sistemlerinkine benzer iplik ve kumaş özellikleri verdiği belirlenmiştir. Bu nedenle, manyetik yöntemle ile gerçekleştirilen yoğunlaştırma önemli derecede daha iyi iplik ve kumaş özelliklerinin elde edilmesi üzerinde etkilidir. Anahtar Kelimeler: RoCoS, kompakt, konvansiyonel ring, manyetik yoğunlaştırma

Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2013 (3) 15-29 İkinci Jenerasyon Kompakt İplik Eğirme Sisteminden Elde Edilen ...

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1. INTRODUCTION

RoCoS is a spinning system introduced as a second generation of compact spinning system by Rotorcraft firm. It was called as a new concept in the compact spinning system field due to its different condensing principle. Condensing is mainly based on air suction in the first generation compact spinning systems such as K44, Elite or AirComTex (Compact3) while there is magnetic condensing principle in RoCoS compact spinning system. As seen in Figure 1, RoCoS spinning system mainly consists of bottom roller (1), front roller (2), delivery roller (3), Supra-Magnets equipped ceramic compactors (4), the supporting bridge (5), the yarn guides (6) and the top roller holders (7) with the weighting spring (8) [1].

(a) (b)

Figure 1. Main elements of RoCoS compact spinning system [1] The bottom roller (1) supports the front roller (2) and delivery roller (3). The condensing zone extends from clamping line A to clamping line B. The magnetic compactor (4) having a specially designed slit is pressed permanently and the clearance between the magnet and bottom roller is overall enclosed. So a compression chamber is generated through the bottom roller surface and the chamber starts from clamping line A to B. Fibre strand is drafted as it was in conventional ring spinning system above the clamping line A. Following to the clamping line A, the fibres are guided into the magnetic compactor slit and they are condensed throughout the compression chamber. In addition to condensing, fibres are also transported safely to the delivery roller in terms of the chamber. When they pass the clamping line B, twist coming from the ring and traveller is given to the fibres and so the yarn is produced. There is no twist and draft through the clamping line A to B [2]. Similar to all compact spinning systems, the aim of RoCoS compact spinning system is to eliminate the spinning triangle and to integrate the protruding fibre ends to yarn body. Therefore, it was stated the general benefits of compact spinning systems such as higher tenacity and elongation, less hairiness, reducing the twist level, increasing the productivity in spinning for RoCoS compact spinning system. In addition to its advantages related to yarn properties, it was also mentioned many affirmative improvements regarding to the costs. Due to its magnetic condensing principle, RoCoS spinning system does not require the air suction, perforated drum or aprons. Therefore, it was claimed that lower capital investments are involving and performing is realized more economically and consistently compared to the conventional pneumatic compacting systems. Power savings are about 6 and 8 Euros per spindle with annual [1].

Yılmaz D., Büyük L., Topuz Z. Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2013(3) 15-29

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In the literature, there are few works to confirm the benefits related to the product quality and costs. Soltani and Johari [3] compared structural and migratory properties of RoCoS compact yarns with that of the siro, solo and conventional ring spun yarns. Following to this study, the authors [4] analysed the strength properties of the yarns with reference of yarn migration parameters, spinning-in-coefficient, number of broken fibres, and yarn hairiness. In one of the work, yarn and fabric properties of RoCoS compact yarns having Ne 30 yarn count were compared with that of the conventional ring and vortex yarns [5]. Therefore, it is required detailed and impartial studies related to the mentioned benefits of the system. In this work, it was aimed to compare the yarn and fabric properties of RoCoS compact spinning system with that of the conventional ring spinning system. Another purpose of the study is to determine the figure of merit of condensing effect of RoCoS compact spinning system. 2. MATERIAL AND METHOD To analyse the yarn and fabric properties of RoCoS compact spinning system, it was produced 100% cotton combed conventional ring and RoCoS compact yarns having Ne 20/1, Ne 30/1, Ne 40/1 and Ne 60/1 yarn counts [6]. The comparisons have been done for coarser and finer yarn counts and so it could be possible to get a general idea about the usage area and also performance of the system. During the yarn spinning, we fed the same rovings in the same order to the spindles to conventional ring and RoCoS compact spinning systems. Roving counts were selected as Ne 0.81 for Ne 20/1 and Ne 30/1 yarns and Ne 1.25 for Ne 40/1 and Ne 60/1 yarns counts. Fibre properties are given in Table 1.

Table 1. Fibre properties Fiber Properties Ne 0.81 Ne 1.25 Staple Length (mm) 30.25 30.65 Micronaire (Mic.) 3.8 4.1 Uniformity Index (U.I.) 84.4 84.9 Strength (cN/tex) 35.6 37.9 Breaking Elongation (%) 4.2 4.4 Short Fiber Index (SFI) 4.6 4.3 Yellowness (+b) 8.4 8.6 Reflectance Degree (Rd) 75.8 77.2 Colour Grade (CG) 31-2 31-1

In all the yarn production, it was given importance to work with the same spinning parameters, e.g. the same twist multiplier, draft, spindle speed and traveller type, etc. Twist multiplier was kept at 3.7 tpinec-1/2 for all the yarn types and yarn counts. In conventional ring and RoCoS compact yarn production, it was used 13500 rpm for Ne 20/1, 30/1 and 40/1 and 15500 rpm spindle speeds for Ne 60/1 yarn counts. To determine the changes in yarn hairiness, the yarns were wound from the cops onto the bobbin by Murata Process Coner. Winding speeds were changed as 1000 m/min for Ne 20/1 and 1500 m/min for Ne 30/1, Ne 40/1 and Ne 60/1 yarns. Yarn Tests The appearances of both yarn types were observed by Motic BX microscopy. Yarn tests were carried out on Uster Tester 4 and Uster Tensorapid testers by feeding the bobbins of each yarn type in the same order to the testers. 10 cops and 5 bobbins were tested for each yarn type and yarn count. The tests were carried out under standard atmospheric conditions and we conditioned the samples min. 24 hour before the tests.

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Fabric Production The yarns were knitted into single-jersey fabrics on the same circular sock knitting machine having the same fabric density. Fabric Properties Fabric appearances were observed by Motic BX microscopy. The knitted fabrics were washed 10 times at 40ºC. And then the deformations of the fabric surface were analysed under microscopy. Pilling behaviour of the fabrics was tested on the Nu-Martindale Abrasion Tester according to ISO 12945-2. Air permeability properties of the fabrics were done on Textest FX 3300 air permeability test instrument at the same air pressure (100 Pa) according to test method of ISO 9237. All the results were analysed statistically. 3. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION 3.1. Yarn Appearances The yarn appearances of Ne 20/1, Ne 30/1, Ne 40/1 and Ne 60/1 yarn counts were analysed under microscopy and typical views are shown in Figure 2.

Ne 20/1 Ne 30/1 Ne 40/1 Ne 60/1

Con

vent

iona

l Rin

g Y

arns

RoC

oS C

ompa

ct Y

arns

Figure 2. Yarn appearances (4x) As seen in typical views, all the RoCoS compact yarns are more even than conventional ring spun yarns. In RoCoS compact yarns, there are fewer fibre ends projected from the yarn body in comparison to conventional ring spun yarns. Similar to these observations, the studies in literature reported more even structure of compact yarns [7-9].

Yılmaz D., Büyük L., Topuz Z. Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2013(3) 15-29

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3.2. Yarn Hairiness Results Hairiness results of conventional ring and RoCoS compact yarns are given in Figure 3. To determine the changes in the hairiness after the winding, all the yarns were wound onto the bobbin and they were tested. As to show the results of cops and bobbin form, it was given the codes as ‘C’ for the results of cops form while the results of bobbin form was called as ‘B’.

C20/1 C30/1 C40/1 C60/1 B20/1 B30/1 B40/1 B60/1

0

2

4

6

Hai

rines

s [H

] Conventional Ring Rocos Compact

Figure 3. Uster hairiness (H) values

Table 2. Anova test results for hairiness results of the conventional ring and RoCoS compact yarns Yarn count (Ne) Before Winding After Winding

20/1 0.001* 0.035* 30/1 0.000* 0.003* 40/1 0.000* 0.000* 60/1 0.000* 0.000* *: The mean difference is significant at the 0.05 level.

According to Figure 3, Uster hairiness values of conventional ring spun yarns are considerably higher than that of the RoCoS compact yarns for all yarn counts. The differences in hairiness results are statistically significant (Table 2). On the other hand, hairiness of both yarns increases after winding. However, RoCoS compact yarns are significantly less hairy than conventional ring spun yarns as in cops form. Although its condensing principle is different from that of the other compact spinning systems, RoCoS compact spinning system is also capable to the less hairy yarn production as the other compact spinning systems. Less hairiness may result from compact yarn structure of RoCoS yarns which was also observed under microscopy. Similar with the pneumatic compact systems, condensing in RoCoS compact spinning system makes the most of the fibres integrating to the yarn body. As expected, when the yarn is getting finer, hairiness values of both yarns show a decreasing trend due to number of fibres in the yarn cross section. On the other hand, the difference in hairiness results increases in finer yarn counts.

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3.3. Yarn Tenacity and Breaking Elongation Results Tenacity and breaking elongation test results are shown in Figures 4-5.

C20/1 C30/1 C40/1 C60/10

5

10

15

20

Yarn

Ten

acity

[cN

/tex]

Conventional Ring Rocos Compact

Figure 4. Yarn tenacity results When the yarn tenacity values were analysed, it was found that RoCoS compact yarns are stronger than conventional ring spun yarns for all the yarn counts due to its compact yarn structure. Especially, when the yarn is getting finer, the difference in yarn tenacity results increases and the differences are getting statistically significant (Table 3).

C20/1 C30/1 C40/1 C60/10

1

2

3

4

5

Yarn

Elo

ngat

ion

[%]

Conventional Ring Rocos Compact

Figure 5. Yarn elongation results As in yarn tenacity results, RoCoS compact yarns have higher yarn elongation values than that of the conventional ring spun yarns. However, there is not statistically significant difference in the results of Ne 20/1 and Ne 30/1 yarn counts. In finer yarn counts, the differences in elongation values of the yarns are getting significant (Table 3). Because of the its higher yarn tenacity and elongation values, RoCoS compact yarns have higher breaking work values than that of the conventional ring spun yarns (Figure 6). Similar with yarn elongation results, the differences in Ne 20/1 and Ne 30/1 yarn counts are not statistically significant while there is a statistically significant difference in Ne 40/1 and Ne 60/1 yarn counts (Table 3). As a result, especially in finer yarn counts, more energy is required to break the RoCoS compact yarns.

Yılmaz D., Büyük L., Topuz Z. Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2013(3) 15-29

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C20/1 C30/1 C40/1 C60/10

2

4

6

8

Bre

akin

g W

ork

[N.c

m]

Conventional Ring Rocos Compact

Figure 6. Breaking work results Table 3. Anova test results for tensile test results of the conventional ring and RoCoS compact yarns

Yarn Count (Ne) Tenacity Elongation Breaking Work 20/1 0.418 0.662 0.563 30/1 0.047* 0.808 0.129 40/1 0.000* 0.032* 0.002* 60/1 0.000* 0.006* 0.000*

*: The mean difference is significant at the 0.05 level. Compact yarn structure can be the reason for better tensile properties of RoCoS compact yarns as mentioned in pneumatic compact spinning systems [7-10]. Therefore, integration of many fibres to yarn body gives rise to higher tensile properties of the RoCoS spun yarns. These findings are also agreed with the literature. The results of hairiness and also tensile properties indicate that magnetic condensing principle is also effective to integrate the fibres. 3.4. Yarn Irregularity Results Irregularity test results of the yarns are given in Figure 7.

C20/1 C30/1 C40/1 C60/10

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

CV

m [%

]

Conventional Ring Rocos Compact

Figure 7. Yarn irregularity results

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Table 4. Anova test results for yarn irregularity test results of the conventional ring and

RoCoS compact yarns

Yarn Count (Ne) Sig. 20/1 0.196 30/1 0.160 40/1 0.180 60/1 0.001*

*: The mean difference is significant at the 0.05 level. According to Figure 7, RoCoS compact yarns are mostly more even than conventional ring spun yarns. However, there is only statistically significant difference in Ne 60/1 results (Table 4) and so it can be said that conventional ring and RoCoS compact yarns have similar yarn irregularity. 3.5. Yarn Imperfection Results Thin places, thick places and neps values are given in Figures 8-10.

C20/1 C30/1 C40/1 C60/10

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

Thin

Pla

ces

[-50%

]

Conventional Ring Rocos Compact

Figure 8. Thin place values

Table 5. Anova test results for yarn faults of the conventional ring and RoCoS compact yarns Yarn Count (Ne) Thin places Thick places Neps

20/1 - 0.579 0.246 30/1 - 0.835 0.893 40/1 0.058 0.001* 0.025* 60/1 0.082 0.000* 0.097

*: The mean difference is significant at the 0.05 level. Although, conventional ring spun yarns have higher thin places than that of the RoCoS compact yarns, the differences in the values were found statistically insignificant.

Yılmaz D., Büyük L., Topuz Z. Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2013(3) 15-29

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C20/1 C30/1 C40/1 C60/10

50

100

150

200

Thic

k Pl

aces

[+50

%]

Conventional Ring Rocos Compact

Figure 9. Thick place values As to thick places results, in general, RoCoS compact yarns have lower thick places. However, the differences in the values of both yarns are statistically insignificant in coarser and medium yarn counts (Table 5). In finer counts, RoCoS compact yarns have significantly less thick places than that of conventional ring spun yarns.

C20/1 C30/1 C40/1 C60/10

50

100

150

200

Nep

s [+

200%

]

Conventional Ring Rocos Compact

Figure 10. Neps values Similar to thin place results, RoCoS compact yarns have lower neps values in comparison to that of the conventional ring spun yarns. Nevertheless, the differences in neps values of both yarns are not statistically significant (Table 5). 3.6. Yarn Quality Index The parameter, yarn quality index, was calculated for each conventional ring and compact spun yarns according to following equation (1) [4].

Yarn Quality Index = (Tenacity * Elongation) / Uster CVm (1)

where tenacity was in cN/tex and elongation was in percentage. Figure 11 shows that, at all yarn fineness, RoCoS compact spun yarns have the highest and conventional ring-spun yarns have the lowest yarn quality index values. This is due to higher tenacity and elongation and lower Uster CVm results of compact spun yarns. Higher yarn quality index values of RoCoS compact yarns indicates that compact

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yarns are more likely to be used in weaving process and in very high-quality products [4]. On the other hand, the differences in index values of the conventional ring and compact yarns increase as the yarns get finer. Particularly, the differences in tensile properties of the conventional ring and compact yarns were found statistically significant for Ne 40/1 and Ne 60/1 yarn counts. The considerably higher tenacity and elongation values of RoCoS compact yarns lead to higher yarn quality index values for finer yarns.

C20/1 C30/1 C40/1 C60/10

2

4

6

8

10

Yarn

Qua

lity

Inde

x [-]

Conventional Ring RoCoS Compact

Figure 11. Yarn quality index values 3.7. Fabric Appearances The fabric appearances were analysed under microscopy and typical views are shown in Figure 12. According to the typical views, all the fabrics knitted from RoCoS compact yarns are more even than the fabrics obtained from conventional ring spun yarns. There are fewer projected hairs on the fabric surfaces of the RoCoS compact yarns. This finding results from lower hairiness and more even structure of compact yarns. Especially, in finer yarn counts, the differences in fabric appearances are getting clear. On the other hand, related to fabric appearances, it was observed the spirality on all the fabric surfaces. The courses of the fabrics did not lie straight and they displaced angularly. When the yarns are getting finer, spirality on all the fabric surfaces is increased. In particular, the fabrics knitted from Ne 40/1 and Ne 60/1 yarn counts have the spirality degree more than 5º which is accepted as a maximum practical spirality degree. In spite of the effect of yarn count on fabric spirality, it was found that spinning technique did not have a significant effect on the fabric spirality.

Yılmaz D., Büyük L., Topuz Z. Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2013(3) 15-29

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Ne

20/1

Ne

30/1

Ne

40/1

Ne

60/1

(A) (B)

Figure 12. Appearances of the fabrics knitted from conventional ring (A) and RoCoS compact (B) yarns (4x)

3.8. Deformation on the Fabric Surface After Multiple Washing The knitted fabrics produced from conventional ring and RoCoS compact yarns were washed 10 times at 40ºC. And then the deformations of the fabric surface were analysed under microscopy. The typical views are given in Figure 13.

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Ne

20/1

Ne

30/1

Ne

40/1

(A) (B)

Figure 13. Deformation on the fabric surfaces produced from conventional ring (A) and RoCoS compact

(B) yarns (4x)

When the fabric appearances were analysed, it was observed the deformations on all the fabric surfaces after multiple washing processes. There are many projected fibres on the fabric surface and hence the deformations can be seen clearly. On the other hand, particularly, the deformations on the fabrics produced from conventional ring spun yarns are higher than that of the fabrics obtained from RoCoS compact yarns. 3.9. Pilling Behaviour Pilling behaviour of the knitted fabrics obtained from conventional ring and RoCoS compact yarns are given in Table 6.

Yılmaz D., Büyük L., Topuz Z. Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2013(3) 15-29

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Table 6. Pilling rate results of the fabrics 125

cycles 500

cycles 1000 cycles

2000 cycles

3000 cycles

5000 cycles

7000 cycles

Ne

20/1

Ring spun 4&5 4&5 3&4 3&4 3&4 2&3 2&3 RoCoS compact 4&5 4&5 3&4 3&4 3&4 2&3 2&3

Ne

30/1

Ring spun 4&5 4 3&4 3&4 / 3 3&4 / 3 3 3 RoCoS compact 4&5 4 3&4 / 3 3&4 / 3 3&4 3&4 / 3 3&4

Ne

40/1

Ring spun 4&5 3 2&3 2&3 1&2 1&2 1&2 RoCoS compact 3&4 / 4 2&3 2&3 2&3 2&3 2 2

Ne

60/1

Ring spun 5 5 4&5 3&4 2 & 3 -* -* RoCoS compact 4&5 3&4 3&4 3 3 -* -*

*: It was not possible to complete pilling test because of the yarn fineness. Pilling rate results show that the fabrics knitted from RoCoS compact yarns have mostly better pilling resistance than the fabrics of conventional ring spun yarns for all yarn fineness. Pilling rates of ring spun fabrics are lower than that of the compact yarn fabrics. Pilling tendency of fabrics is affected by the yarn hairiness and less hairiness may lead to an increase in the pilling resistance of the fabric. 3.10. Air Permeability Results The air permeability of a fabric is the measure of the air passage through the fabric [11]. Therefore, the yarn hairiness may affect the air passage. The air permeability of the fabrics knitted from conventional ring and RoCoS compact yarns were measured by Textest FX3300 air permeability tester at 100 Pa and the test results of the knitted fabrics are given in Figure 14.

Ne 20/1 Ne 30/1 Ne 40/10

1000

2000

3000

4000

Air P

erm

eabi

lity

[l/m

2/s]

Conventional Ring Rocos Compact

Figure 14. Air permeability values of the fabrics measured at the pressures of 100 Pa

Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2013 (3) 15-29 İkinci Jenerasyon Kompakt İplik Eğirme Sisteminden Elde Edilen ...

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Table 7. Anova test results for air permeability test results Yarn count (Ne) Sig.

20/1 0.211 30/1 0.000* 40/1 0.590

*: The mean difference is significant at the 0.05 level. According to Figure 13, the fabrics knitted from RoCoS compact yarns have slightly higher air permeability values for Ne 30/1 and Ne 40/1 yarn counts. However, the differences in air permeability values of conventional ring and RoCoS compact yarns are not statistically significant for Ne 20/1 and Ne 40/1 yarn counts. Therefore, in most cases, the fabrics knitted from conventional ring and RoCoS compact yarns have similar air permeability. 4. CONCLUSIONS In this work, it was compared the yarn and fabric properties of the yarns produced on RoCoS compact and conventional ring spinning systems. In the comparisons, wide range of yarn counts was used and so it was possible to get a general idea about the performance of the systems in coarser and finer yarn spinning field. As in pneumatic condensing compact spinning systems, RoCoS compact spinning system also give significantly lower hairiness values than conventional ring spinning system for coarser and finer yarn counts. Although hairiness of both yarns increases after winding, RoCoS compact yarns are significantly less hairy than conventional ring spun yarns as in cops form. On the other hand, tensile properties of RoCoS compact yarns are also better than that of the conventional ring spun yarns. Less hairiness, higher yarn tenacity and yarn elongation may result from compact structure of RoCoS compact yarns which was also observed under microscopy. Although there is a significant difference in hairiness and tensile properties, RoCoS compact and conventional ring spun yarns have mostly similar yarn irregularity, thin and thick places and neps values. In particular, the differences are getting statistically significant as in finer yarn counts. On the other hand, considerably better tensile properties and lower yarn irregularity values of compact spun yarns enable higher yarn quality index and better performance during the weaving process. When the fabric properties are analysed, it was observed that the fabrics knitted from RoCoS compact yarns are more even compared to that of the conventional ring spun yarns. Additionally, these fabrics have mostly better pilling resistance than the fabrics of conventional ring spun yarns. After the multiple washing, deformations were observed on the fabric surfaces. However, particularly, conventional ring spun yarns are higher fabric deformations than that of the fabrics obtained from RoCoS compact yarns. Not only the yarn properties but also the fabric properties indicate that it is possible to get better properties in RoCoS compact spinning system compared to conventional ring spinning system. Although RoCoS spinning system differs from pneumatic compact spinning systems with its condensing principle which is based on magnetic compactor, general benefits of compact spinning system such as less hairiness, higher tenacity etc. is also current for RoCoS compact spinning system. Another result of the study is that condensing realizing by air suction or magnetic compactor improves the yarn and fabric quality. On the other hand, there is a not statistically significant difference in most the results of Ne 20/1 and Ne 30/1 yarn counts. When the yarn is getting finer, the benefits of compact spinning are getting statistically significant. Therefore, it can be said that system is more effective in finer yarn production.

Yılmaz D., Büyük L., Topuz Z. Teknolojik Araştırmalar: TTED 2013(3) 15-29

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In addition to its benefits related to yarn quality, when the costs are taken into account, differing from the pneumatic first generation compact spinning systems, RoCoS compact spinning system is getting an opportunity to attract more attention. 5. REFERENCES 1. Stahlecker, H. (2005). RoCoS Rotorcraft Compact Spinning: Magnetic Compacting, www.oe-

rotorcraft.com. 2. Oerlikon, (2008). Product Presentation Texparts® RoCoS, www.oerlikon.com. 3. Soltani, P., Johari, M.S., (2012). A study on siro-, solo-, compact-, and conventional ring-spun yarns.

Part I: structural and migratory properties of the yarns, Journal of The Textile Institute, 103:6, 622-628.

4. Soltani, P., Johari, M.S., (2012). A study on siro-, solo-, compact-, and conventional ring-spun yarns.

Part II: yarn strength with relation to physical and structural properties of yarns, Journal of The Textile Institute, Vol. 103, No. 9, September 2012, 921–930.

5. Beceren, Y., Nergis, B.U. (2008). Comparison of the Effects of Cotton Yarns Produced by New,

Modified and Conventional Spinning Systems on Yarn and Knitted Fabric Performance, Textile Research Journal, 78 (4), 297–303.

6. Topuz, Z., Büyük, L. (2009). Konvansiyonel Ring Ve Rocos Kompakt İplik Ve Kumaş Özelliklerinin

Karşılaştırılması, Final Project, Suleyman Demirel University, Textile Engineering Department, Isparta, Turkey.

7. Artzt, P. (1997). The Special Structure of Compact Yarns-Advantages In Downstream Processing, ITB

Yarn And Fabric Forming, 2, 41-48. 8. Stalder, H. (2000). Ring Spinning Advance, Textile Asia, March, 43-46. 9. Cheng, K.P.S., Yu, C. (2003). A Study Of Compact Spun Yarns, Textile Research Journal, 73 (4),

345-349.

10. Goktepe, F., Yılmaz, D., Goktepe, O., (2007). A Comparison of Compact Yarn Properties Produced on Different Systems, Textile Research Journal, Vol. 76, No 3, s. 226–234.

11. Saville, B.P. (2000). Physical Testing Of Textiles, The Textile Institute, CRC Pres, ISBN 0-8493-0568-3, USA.