The Best of Belize

Belize proves the cliché that big things come in small packages. This tiny CentralAmerican country has the longest continuous barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere;the largest known classic Mayan city, Caracol; and the highest concentration persquare mile of the largest new-world cat, the jaguar. It also has one of the most exten-sive and easily accessible cave systems for amateur and experienced spelunkers alike, aswell as a nearly endless supply of some of the world’s best snorkeling and scuba-div-ing opportunities. Depending on your personal preferences, you can choose to stay inan intimate and luxurious hotel, an isolated nature lodge in the heart of the MundoMaya, or a tent on your own desert island. Or you can sample all three. The best partabout all these world-class places and experiences is that Belize’s compact size makesit easy to sample a wide range of them in a short period of time. The lists below shouldhelp you zero in on a few personal bests of your own.

1 The Best Purely Belizean Experiences

1

• Spending the Night in a MayanCeremonial City: An intimate andrather luxurious nature lodge, ChanChich Lodge (& 800/343-8009 inthe U.S., or 223-4419 in Belize;www.chanchich.com) is built righton the site of a minor Mayan ceremo-nial city. The hills just outside yourprivate cabin are unexcavated resi-dences and pyramids. Ruins and basicexcavations dot the grounds, and thesurrounding rainforests are rich inbird and animal life. See p. 118.

• Drinking a Cool Seaweed Shake:Made from dried natural seaweed,blended with both condensed andevaporated milk, cinnamon, nutmeg,vanilla, and some ice, this drink issurprisingly refreshing and tasty. Youcan get these drinks at several beachdestinations around Belize, but Pla-cencia seems to be the home of the

seaweed shake. See “Placencia” inchapter 8.

• Betting on a Chicken Drop: Achicken drop is a sort of poor man’sversion of roulette, and much morefun. Numbers are painted on a gridand bets are placed. Then, a chickenis set loose on a wire mesh screen sus-pended over the grid. The winner ischosen by the chicken’s first “drop.”In addition to any monetary win-nings, the “winner” often must cleanthe grid. You’ll find a chicken dropheld every night at the Pier Loungeon Ambergris Caye. See “AmbergrisCaye” in chapter 7.

• Staying with a Mayan or GarífunaFamily: It certainly isn’t going to belike a night at the Four Seasons, butif you’re looking for a real culturalexchange experience, you should con-sider actually staying with a traditional

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Mayan or Garífuna Family. TheToledo Ecotourism Association(& 722-2096; ttea@btl.net) can

organize this for you. See “PuntaGorda & the Toledo District” inchapter 8.

T H E B E S T O F N AT U R A L B E L I Z E 5

2 The Best of Natural Belize• Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary

(Northern Belize): This preserve is aswampy lowland that is home to over250 resident species of birds andserves as a resting spot for scores ofmigratory species. It is also the prin-cipal nesting site of the endangeredjabiru stork, the largest bird in theAmericas. The sanctuary is an excel-lent place to spot other wildlife aswell, including crocodiles, iguanas,coati-mundi, and howler monkeys.The best way to explore CrookedTree is by paddling around the net-work of lagoons in a dugout canoe.See “En Route North: Crooked TreeWildlife Sanctuary” in chapter 6.

• Río Bravo Conservation Area(Northern Belize): This massivemixed tract of virgin forest, sustain-able-yield managed forest, and recov-ering reforestation areas is home tonearly 400 bird species and over 200species of tropical trees. It also sup-ports a healthy population of most ofthe new-world cat species, and is oneof the best areas in the Americas totry your luck in spotting a jaguar. TheRío Bravo Conservation Area is alsohome to La Milpa, an ongoing exca-vation of a major Mayan ceremonialcity. See “Going West: Río BravoConservation Area, La Milpa &Chan Chich” in chapter 6.

• The Cayes & Barrier Reef: Runningthe entire length of the country’scoastline, the Belize Barrier Reef isthe second longest continuous barrierreef in the world. Here you will findsome of the best snorkeling opportu-nities and scuba-diving sites in theworld. Moreover, the barrier reef is

lined with hundreds and hundreds ofsmall islands, or cayes. Most areuninhabited. These cayes range insize from tiny patches of sand ormangrove smaller than a football fieldto the larger and more developedvacation destination islands of CayeCaulker and Ambergris Caye.Whether you want the hustle andbustle of the latter, the deserted islefeel of a smaller or even private caye,or something in between, yourchoices are many and uniformlyinviting. See chapters 7 and 8.

• The Atolls: Belize’s three mid-oceanatolls are arguably more spectacularthan the barrier reef and its manycayes. Unique formations of smallislands and reef surrounding a mid-ocean saltwater lagoon, atolls are aunique, isolated, and stunning phe-nomena. Belize has three of them:Turneffe Island, Lighthouse Reef, andGlover’s Reef. These atolls are verysparsely developed, and any visit herewill be imbued with a sense of adven-ture, isolation, and romance. See“The Outer Atolls” in chapter 7 and“Dangriga” in chapter 8.

• Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctu-ary & Cockscomb Basin ForestReserve (Southern Belize): This is ahuge protected area comprised ofrugged forested mountains. The sanc-tuary was designed to protect andhelp researchers study the largestnew-world cat, the jaguar. The park isalso home to Belize’s other four wild-cat species, as well as Baird’s tapirs,coati-mundis, tayra, kinkajous, deer,peccaries, anteaters, and armadillos,as well as some 300 species of birds.Inside the park you’ll also find Victoria

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The Best of Belize

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Peak, the country’s highest mountain.See “Dangriga” in chapter 8.

• Caves (Cayo District and WesternBelize): Belize has an extensive net-work of caves, which were consideredby the ancient Maya to be a mysticalportal between the world of the livingand the underworld of spirits and thedead. They called this mystical realmXibalba. In almost every exploredcave in Belize, some evidence of useby the Mayans has been uncovered.Fire pits, campsites, burial mounds,and ritual altars have all been found.Numerous pieces of pottery and abun-dant skeletons, bones, and artifactshave also been encountered. Thesecaves are relatively easily accessible

and you should not leave Belize with-out at least one foray into Xibalba.See chapter 9.

• Río On Pools (Cayo District andWestern Belize): This series of flow-ing falls and pools is somewhat remi-niscent of Ocho Rios in Jamaica.While the views and swimming arefine at the base of the falls, it’s worththe hike upstream to even betterviews and numerous pools flowingbetween big rocks, which are perfectfor sunbathing. This place can getcrowded on weekends, when localscome for family picnics and getaways.See “Mountain Pine Ridge & Cara-col” in chapter 9.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F B E L I Z E8

3 The Best Diving & SnorkelingBelize is rightly considered one of the topscuba-diving and snorkeling destinationson the planet. The Belize Barrier Reef,second only to Australia’s Great BarrierReef, runs the length of its coastline, andthe country has three open-ocean atolls.Diving and snorkeling are superb allalong the barrier reef; the following arejust a few of the truly standout sites anddives.

• Shark-Ray Alley & Hol ChanMarine Reserve (Northern Cayesand Atolls): These two very popularsnorkeling sites are threatened withovercrowding but still live up to theirbilling. Shark-Ray Alley guarantees avery close encounter with schools oflarge stingrays and nurse sharks. Theexperience provides a substantialadrenaline rush for all but the mostnonchalant and veteran divers. HolChan Marine Reserve is an excellentsnorkeling destination comprised of anarrow channel cutting through arich and well-maintained shallowcoral reef. See “Ambergris Caye” inchapter 7.

• Caye Caulker (Northern Cayes andAtolls): If you’re looking for a relaxedvacation spot to serve as a base forsome good snorkeling, you can’t domuch better than Caye Caulker,which has some excellent and easilyaccessible snorkeling sites. It’s alsomuch less developed and less crowdedthan its more popular neighbor,Ambergris Caye. Many of the divesites are a very short boat ride fromshore. Since the distance to the divesites is so short, Caye Caulker is alsoa good place to hook up with a localsailboat captain who can take you outto the sites. See “Caye Caulker” inchapter 7.

• Turneffe Island & Lighthouse ReefAtolls (Northern Cayes and Atolls):For many divers coming to Belize,these spots are the Holy Grail, andjustifiably so. Both of these mid-ocean atoll formations feature nearlyendless opportunities for world-classwall, drift, and coral garden diving.As a cherry to top this cake, this isalso where you’ll find the Blue Hole.

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A host of dive operators all acrossBelize offer day trips to dive thesesites, although these usually involve a2- to 3-hour ride each way. Alterna-tively, you can stay at one of the veryfew lodges out here, or take a vaca-tion on a live-aboard dive boat. See“The Outer Atolls” in chapter 7.

• Glover’s Reef Atoll (Southern Belize):Glover’s Reef is the third of Belize’smid-ocean atolls. The diving hereis spectacular and underexploited.Unlike the Turneffe Island and Light-house Reef atolls, far fewer day-trip-pers visit the dive sites aroundGlover’s Reef Atoll. The best way toreally take advantage of the divingand snorkeling is to stay out here, andfor this, Glover’s Atoll Resort(& 520-5016; www.glovers.com.bz)

is your best option. See “Dangriga” inchapter 8.

• Gladden Spit (Southern Belize):More or less due east of Placencia,Gladden Spit is a world-renownedspot for diving with massive whalesharks. This mid-ocean site is the natu-ral spawning ground for a variety ofmarine species. Whale sharks comeregularly to feed on the energeticallyrich and very plentiful reproductiveeffluence. Whale-shark sightings arefairly common here in March, April,and May, and to a lesser extent fromAugust to October and Decemberand January. Since they tend to feedand cruise close to the surface,snorkelers and divers alike can enjoythe spectacle. See “Placencia” inchapter 8.

T H E B E S T N O N D I V I N G A D V E N T U R E S 9

4 The Best Nondiving Adventures• Chartering a Sailboat for Some Iso-

lated Island Explorations: The pro-tected waters, steady gentle tradewinds, and hundreds of isolatedislands and anchorages make Belizean ideal place for bareboat charters.Given the shallow draft, increasedinterior space, and reduced drag, amultihull is your best bet. Both theMoorings (& 888/952-8401 in theU.S. and Canada, or 523-3351; www.moorings.com) and TMM (& 800/633-0155 in the U.S., or 226-3026;www.sailtmm.com) are two large-scale charter companies with opera-tions on Ambergris Caye and inPlacencia. See “Ambergris Caye” inchapter 7 and “Placencia” in chapter 8.

• Fly-Fishing for Bonefish, Permit &Tarpon on the Outer Atoll Flats:Belize is a world-class fishing destina-tion, and while offshore fishing forbigger game is possible, the real drawhere is fly-fishing for feisty andworld-record size bonefish, permit,and tarpon (actually, the tarpon get as

big as most deep-sea game). TurneffeFlats (& 888/512-8812 in the U.S.;www.tflats.com) is an excellent fish-ing operation located on TurneffeIsland Atoll. See “The Outer Atolls”in chapter 7.

• Kayaking & Camping aroundGlover’s Reef Atoll: The relativelycalm protected waters of the atoll and manageable distances betweenislands make this a perfect place toexplore under your own power, pad-dling a one- or two-person sea kayak.Both Island Expeditions (& 800/667-1630 or 604/452-3212 in theU.S.; www.islandexpeditions.com)and Slickrock Adventures (& 800/390-5715 or 435/259-4225 in theU.S.; www.slickrock.com) run vari-ous adventurous multiday kayaktours to small camps and lodges onprivate isolated cayes of Glover’s ReefAtoll. See “Dangriga” in chapter 8.

• Riding an Inner Tube through theCaves Branch River Cave System(Cayo District and Western Belize):

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This is certainly the most popularand probably the easiest way toexplore Belize’s vast network of caves.You strap on a battery-powered head-lamp, climb into the center of aninflated car inner tube, and gentlyfloat through a series of limestonecaves, your headlamp illuminating thestalactites and the occasional bat. Theentire sensation is eerie and slightlyclaustrophobic, but fun nonethe-less—especially if you go with a smallgroup on a day when the caves arenot crowded. See “Belmopan” inchapter 9.

• Canoeing, Kayaking, or Inner Tubing on the Macal or MopanRivers (Western Belize): These tworivers converge around the city ofSan Ignacio, in the Cayo District.Upstream from town on either riverare ample opportunities for paddling

or floating. Depending on the waterlevel and the section you choose, thiscan range from a lazy canoe or innertube paddle to a Class III kayak tripover rushing rapids. Any of the hotelsin the Cayo District can help youorganize one of these adventures. See“San Ignacio” in chapter 9.

• Horseback Riding through theCayo District (Western Belize): TheCayo District is a perfect area toexplore on horseback. Rides can becombined with visits to jungle water-falls and swimming holes, as well asnearby Mayan ruins. MountainEquestrian Trails (& 820-4041;www.metbelize.com) have one of thebetter stables and horse riding opera-tions in the Cayo District. See “SanIgnacio” and “Mountain Pine Ridge& Caracol” in chapter 9.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F B E L I Z E10

5 The Best Day Hikes & Nature Walks• Cockscomb Basin Forest Reserve

(Southern Belize): This large forestreserve has an excellent networkof well-maintained trails. TheCockscomb Basin Forest Reserve—inaddition to being the only dedicatedreserve designed to protect theendangered jaguar—is also home toan amazing array of tropical flora andfauna. Truly adventurous hikers canarrange to climb Belize’s tallestmountain, Victoria Peak, which isfound inside this reserve. See “Dan-griga” in chapter 8.

• Guanacaste National Park (CayoDistrict and Western Belize): Thissmall national park is located right onthe side of the Western Highway,about 2 miles (3km) north of Bel-mopan. The gentle trails and easyaccessibility here make this an excel-lent choice for an introduction totropical forests. There are nearly2 miles (3km) of well-marked and

well-maintained trails in the park,with several benches for sitting andobserving wildlife. The park is bor-dered on the west by Roaring Creekand on the north by the Belize River.See “Belmopan” in chapter 9.

• Blue Hole National Park (CayoDistrict and Western Belize): Thishike combines a pleasant 1.5-mile(2.4km) hike through dense primaryand secondary tropical forest, withthe chance to hike farther inside thelarge and long St. Herman’s Cave,while also stopping for a refreshingdip in the park’s beautiful namesakeswimming hole, or cenote, here. Ifyou hire a guide, you can actuallyhike for several miles more inside thestunning Crystalline Cave. See “Bel-mopan” in chapter 9.

• Tikal National Park (Tikal,Guatemala): In addition to being oneof the best excavated and preservedancient Mayan cities, the extensive

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trail network running through theTikal ruins happen to be dense tropi-cal rainforest. Howler and spidermonkeys clamor overhead and parrotssquawk through the canopy. You can

see a wealth of tropical fauna here, asyou slowly wander from plaza toplaza and pyramid to pyramid. See“Tikal” in chapter 10.

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6 The Best Bird-WatchingBelize is home to over 570 species of resi-dent and migratory birds. With variedecosystems, ranging from coastal man-groves and swamps, to isolated barrierreef cayes, to dense tropical rainforest andclear open savannahs, Belize is a wonder-ful destination for avid bird-watchers andamateurs alike.

• Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary(Northern Belize): This rich wetlandsis perhaps the top bird-watching sitein Belize. Home to hundreds of resi-dent and migrant species, it is one ofthe best spots to see the giant and rarejabiru stork, especially during the dryseason. You can spot various heronand kingfisher species here, as well asthe yellow-lored parrot and Yucatánjay. See “En Route North: CrookedTree Wildlife Sanctuary” in chapter 6.

• New River Lagoon (Northern Belize):This wide-open lagoon is reached viathe winding and narrow New River,and branches off into a network ofnarrow canals, streams, and marsh-lands, the perfect and preferred habi-tat for a wide range of bird species.Common species sighted include theblack-collared hawk, northern jacana,and purple gallinule. You can com-bine a bird-watching trip here with avisit to the Lamanai Mayan ruins,which also has wonderful opportuni-ties for bird-watching all along itstrails and from the peaks of its pyra-mids. See “The Submerged Croco-dile: Lamanai” in chapter 6.

• Shipstern Nature Reserve (NorthernBelize): Covering some 22,000 acres(8,800 hectares), including severaldistinct ecosystems, Shipstern Nature

Reserve is home to over 250 birdspecies. You can explore the area onfoot, as well as in little dugout canoesand flat-bottomed boats. See “CorozalTown” in chapter 6.

• Half Moon Caye National Monu-ment (Northern Cayes and Atolls):This isolated wildlife and marinereserve is a major nesting site for thered-footed booby. Thousands of thesebirds can be spotted on the island atany one time, an amazing sight. Inaddition, you can also spot a widerange of resident and migratory seabirds here. See “The Outer Atolls” inchapter 7.

• Man-O-War Caye (Southern Belize):This small caye is a government-monitored bird sanctuary and majornesting site for the magnificent frigate,or man-o-war. Circling the island in asmall boat, you’ll see hundreds ofthese large seabirds roosting on andhovering above the tiny caye. In addi-tion to the frigates, the island also ishome to a large community of brownboobies. See “Dangriga” in chapter 8.

• Cockscomb Basin Forest Reserve(Southern Belize): In addition to itsjaguar reserve, the Cockscomb BasinForest Reserve is home to a largenumber of tropical forest–dwellingbird species. This is one of the bestsites in Belize to spot the large andloud scarlet macaw, as well as severaltoucan species, and the imposingking vulture. See “Dangriga” in chap-ter 8.

• Caracol (Cayo District and WesternBelize): Also a major Mayan ruin,Caracol and its surrounding forest are

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a prime bird-watching destination.The area is replete with numeroustropical forest species, including suchbeauties as the keel-billed motmot,violaceous trogon, the ocellated

turkey, crested guan, and great curas-sow. Some visitors have even spottedthe harpy eagle here. See “MountainPine Ridge & Caracol” in chapter 9.

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7 The Best Mayan Ruins• Altun Ha (Northern Belize): One of

the most easily accessible Mayanruins from Belize City, Altun Ha is asmall yet well-preserved site featuringtwo large central plazas surroundedby midsized pyramids and mounds.Only a few of the most imposingtemples, tombs, and pyramids havebeen uncovered and rebuilt; hun-dreds more lie under the junglefoliage. Many jade, pearl, and obsid-ian artifacts have been discoveredhere, including the unique jade-headsculpture of Kinich Ahau (theMayan sun god), the largest carvedjade piece from the Mayan era. See“Along the Old Northern Highway:Altun Ha & Maruba Resort JungleSpa” in chapter 6.

• Lamanai: One of the more interest-ing and picturesque Mayan ruins inBelize, Lamanai features three largepyramids, a couple of residentialareas, various restored stelae, andopen plazas, as well as a small andunique ball court. Moreover, theruins of two 16th-century Spanishchurches are nearby. The site is set onthe banks of the New River Lagoon.Since it was still occupied by theMaya when the Spanish arrived,Lamanai is one of the few sites inBelize to retain its traditional name.See “The Submerged Crocodile:Lamanai” in chapter 6.

• Xunantunich (Cayo District andWestern Belize): Xunantunich is animpressive, well-excavated, and easilyaccessible Mayan site, close to SanIgnacio. Xunantunich was a thrivingMayan city during the Classic Period,

from about A.D. 600 to 900. You’llfind carved stelae and one very tallmain pyramid here. To reach theruins, you must cross the MopanRiver aboard a tiny hand-crankedcar-ferry in the village of San JoséSuccotz. See “San Ignacio” in chap-ter 9.

• El Pilar (Cayo District and WesternBelize): El Pilar just may be the mostunderappreciated major Mayan cityin Mesoamerica. The site is huge,with over 25 known plazas, coveringsome 100 acres (40 hectares) thatstraddle the Belize and Guatemalaborder. Excavation and explorationhere are in their early stages, and Idon’t think it will be long before ElPilar joins the ranks of Caracol andTikal as one of the major ClassicMayan sites of this region. See “SanIgnacio” in chapter 9.

• Caracol (Cayo District and WesternBelize): Caracol (www.caracol.org) isthe largest known Mayan archaeologi-cal site in Belize, and one of the greatMayan city-states of the Classic era.Located deep within the ChiquibilForest Reserve, the ruins are notnearly as well excavated as Tikal orXunantunich or any number of othersites. However, this is part of Cara-col’s charm. The main pyramid here,Caana or “Sky Palace,” stands some136 feet (41m) high; it is the tallestMayan building in Belize and still thetallest man-made structure in thecountry. See “Mountain Pine Ridge& Caracol” in chapter 9.

• Tikal: Just over the Belizean borderin neighboring Guatemala, Tikal is

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the grandest of the surviving ClassicMayan cities. Tikal is far more exten-sively excavated than any ruins inBelize. The pyramids here are some ofthe most perfect examples of ceremo-nial architecture in the Mayan world.The peaks of several temples pokethrough the dense rainforest canopy.

Toucans and parrots fly about, andthe loudest noise you’ll hear is theguttural call of howler monkeys. Inits heyday, the city probably coveredas much as 25 square miles (65 sq.km) and supported a population ofover 100,000. See “Tikal” in chap-ter 10.

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8 The Best Views• The main pyramid at Xunantunich,

El Castillo, rises to 127 feet (38m).It’s a steep climb, but the view fromthe top is worth it. On a clear day,you’ll be able to make out the twinborder towns of Benque Viejo, Belize,and Melchor de Menchos, Guatemala.See chapter 9.

• Try watching the sun rise over theNew River Lagoon from a hammockstrung on the front porch of yourveranda at the Lamanai OutpostLodge (& 800/733-7864 in the U.S.,or 322-2199 in Belize; fax 727/864-4062 in the U.S.; www.lamanai.com).It is a view you’ll always treasure. Theview is lovely throughout the day, butit’s worth waking up early for. Seechapter 6.

• The Blue Hole is probably best ex-perienced and viewed from above. Aperfectly round sinkhole measuringsome 1,000 feet (300m) across in the

middle of the Lighthouse Reef Atolllagoon, the Blue Hole appears as adeep dark blue circle in a sea of shim-mering turquoise.

• Although the main temple at Cerrosis a just a diminutive 70 feet tall(21m), it offers excellent views acrossCorozal Bay. Moreover, this is an easyclimb for most, and far easier thanthe climbs to the tops of most othermajor Mayan ceremonial pyramids.See chapter 6.

• Poking their heads over the denserainforest canopy, the pyramids ofTikal offer some of the best views tobe found in all of Central America.Temple IV is the tallest, and the pre-ferred platform for enjoying thisview, but Temple II just off the GreatPlaza is really just as good. Get hereearly, or stay late, to enjoy the viewswithout the hustle and bustle of bus-loads of tourists. See chapter 10.

9 The Best Destinations for Families• Belize Zoo (near Belize City): The

Belize Zoo (& 220-8003; www.belizezoo.org) houses over 125 ani-mals, all native Belizean species. It isconsidered a national treasure and amodel for the possibilities of a con-servation-based zoo. The zoo itself iswonderfully laid out, on meanderingtrails with large and well-maintainedenclosures for the animals. See “Whatto See & Do” in chapter 5.

• Ambergris Caye (Northern Cayesand Atolls): Ambergris Caye is the

most developed of Belize’s beach anddiving destinations. As such, it hasthe greatest selection of hotels andactivities, many of them either gearedtowards or just plain great for kids.From snorkeling to paragliding totouring the island on golf carts andvisiting the new Butterfly Jungle,there’s plenty to keep families andkids of all ages occupied here.Xanadu Island Resort (& 226-2814; www.xanaduresort-belize.com)and Captain Morgan’s Retreat

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(& 888/653-9090 or 307/587-8914in the U.S., or 226-2207 in Belize;www.belizevacation.com) are two goodchoices for families. See “AmbergrisCaye” in chapter 7.

• Jaguar Reef Lodge (Hopkins Vil-lage, Southern Belize; & 800/289-5756 in the U.S., or 520-7040 inBelize; www.jaguarreef.com): Thisintimate beachfront resort has a rangeof amenities and activities that willmake parents happy and keep kidsoccupied. In addition to the pool,beach, sea kayaks, and mountain bikes,these folks have a “day lodge” on theSittee River, as well as a private caye,which can be visited for a day of snor-keling and diving or on an overnightadventure. See p. 186.

• The Inn at Robert’s Grove (Placen-cia, Southern Belize; & 800/565-9757 in the U.S., or 523-3565 inBelize; www.robertsgrove.com): Thisis another small beach resort that iswell suited for families. As at JaguarReef, there’s a wide enough range ofactivities available here to keep fami-lies active and interested for a fullvacation. What makes this placeslightly trump Jaguar Reef are its twoswimming pools and two privatecayes. See p. 196.

• Cayo District (Western Belize): TheCayo District is the heart of Belize’sMayan world, as well as its primeecotourism destination. Between afull plate of active adventure activitiesand a steady diet of Mayan ruins andancient burial caves, families will findthis a great place to spend time inBelize. Chaa Creek (& 824-2037;www.chaacreek.com) is not onlyextremely comfortable for families,but they also have their own butterflybreeding project and natural historymuseum on-site. And if parents needa little pampering, they also have anexcellent spa. See chapter 9.

• Caves Branch (Cayo District andWestern Belize): You’ll be heroes inyour kids’ eyes after you take theminner tubing through the dark andspooky network of limestone cavestraversed by the slow-moving CavesBranch River. Families looking forsome creature comfort would be wiseto choose Jaguar Paw (& 888/775-8645 in the U.S., or 820-2023;www.jaguarpaw.com), while thosewith a real hankering for adventureshould head to Ian Anderson’s CavesBranch (& 822-2800; www.cavesbranch.com). See “Belmopan” inchapter 9.

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10 The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts• Radisson Fort George Hotel &

Marina (Belize City; & 800/333-3333 in the U.S. or 223-3333 inBelize; www.radisson.com): This is thetop business-class and luxury hotel inBelize City. This oceanfront hotel islocated in the quiet Fort Georgeneighborhood, out by the lighthouse,just a block from the cruise-shiptourist village. The hotel has an excel-lent swimming pool, a well-equippedgym, several restaurants and bars, andeasy access to the best Belize City hasto offer. See p. 89.

• Maruba Resort Jungle Spa (off theOld Northern Hwy.; & 888/790-5264 in the U.S., or 225-5555; fax225-5506; www.maruba-belize.com):This small resort and spa is set in apatch of lush forest and floweringgardens. The whole operation is aneclectic orgy designed to please theeyes and all other senses. The individ-ual villas here are spectacular. A widerange of spa treatments is available,and excellently and professionallydone. Don’t miss out on their signa-ture Mood Mud Massage, perhaps

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one of the few massage experiencesfor which you’ll want to bring a cam-era. See p. 107.

• Captain Morgan’s Retreat (Amber-gris Caye; & 888/653-9090 or 307/587-8914 in the U.S., or 226-2207;www.belizevacation.com): This isprobably the best of the full-scaleresort hotels on Ambergris Caye. Theaccommodations are a mix of indi-vidual bungalows and one- or two-bedroom suites. All are quite close toa long and beautiful stretch of beach.The hotel has two swimming poolsand a beach volleyball court; it alsooffers a whole host of activities, tours,and adventures. See p. 145.

• Victoria House (Ambergris Caye;& 800/247-5159 or 713/344-2340in the U.S., or 226-2067; www.victoria-house.com): Casual eleganceand attentive service await you at thisAmbergris Caye resort. A varied col-lection of rooms, suites, and villas arespread around an expansive piece ofland planted with lush tropical gar-dens. The hotel also has one of thebest restaurants in the country, aswell as a wonderful patch of softwhite-sand beach. See p. 144.

• Cayo Espanto (just off the coast ofAmbergris Caye; & 888/666-4282in the U.S. and Canada; www.aprivateisland.com): What could be moredecadent and luxurious than stayingin a private villa, with a private swim-ming pool, a private dock, and a per-sonal butler, on an almost privateisland? (There are five villas here,although you can rent out the wholeisland if you like.) This place pulls outall the stops, providing all the modernconveniences and pampering possibleon a desert island getaway. See p. 146.

• Turtle Inn (Placencia; & 800/746-3743 in the U.S., or 523-3244; www.turtleinn.com): Building on the ex-perience gained from his Blan-caneaux Lodge, and building upon

the ruins of a hotel destroyed by Hur-ricane Iris, director Francis FordCoppola has upped the ante on high-end hotels in Belize. The individualvillas here are the most beautiful andluxurious in Belize. The hotel is setright on an excellent stretch of beach,and the service and dining are top-notch. See p. 196.

• El Pescador South (Punta Gorda;& 800/242-2017 in the U.S., or722-0050; fax 722-0051; www.elpescadorpg.com): This is by far themost luxurious option around PuntaGorda, and one of the nicest lodgesin the country. Although gearedtoward fishermen and women, theaccommodations and setting of thislodge would please just about any-body. See p. 208.

• Jaguar Paw (near Belmopan; & 888/775-8645 in the U.S., or 820-2023;www.jaguarpaw.com): Set in a sectionof dense tropical forest on the edge ofand entrance to one of Belize’s mostspectacular cave systems, this hotel isone of the most unique nature lodgesin Belize. The rooms themselves areall distinct and feature bold architec-tural and decorative touches. Thefood is excellent, and this is the bestplace in the country to combine com-fort with intensive spelunking andcave explorations. See p. 220.

• Chaa Creek (off the road to BenqueViejo, Cayo District; & 824-2037;www.chaacreek.com): A pioneernature lodge in Belize, this collectionof individual and duplex cottages wasalso a pioneer in the whole concept ofrustic luxury. Cool terra-cotta tilefloors, varnished wood, thatchedroofs, and beautiful Guatemalan tex-tiles and handicrafts are elegantly yetsimply combined. The property is seton a steep hillside over the lovelyMacal River. Service is very friendlyand personable, and the lodge provideseasy access to a wealth of natural

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adventures and ancient Mayan won-ders. See p. 234.

• Blancaneaux Lodge (Mountain PineRidge Reserve, Cayo District;& 800/746-3743 in the U.S., or824-3878; www.blancaneaux.com):Francis Ford Coppola’s first Belizeanmountain retreat remains one of themost elegant and luxurious naturelodges in the country. The hotel is seton a steep pine-forested hillside, over-looking the Privassion River and aseries of gentle falls. The individualcabanas are all spacious, are beauti-fully decorated, and feature a privatebalcony or deck designed to take in

the excellent views. The hotelrecently added a wonderful riversidespa facility. See p. 242.

• La Lancha Resort (Lago Petén Itzá,Petén; & 800/746-3743 in theU.S., or &/fax 502/7928-8331 inGuatemala; www.lalanchavillage.com):Set on a steep, high hillside overlook-ing the lake, this is the plushestoption close to the amazing ruins ofTikal. Another of Francis Ford Cop-pola’s regional resorts, the rooms hereare once again decorated with style,featuring furniture and artwork fromaround the world. The food is alsoexcellent. See p. 262.

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11 The Best Moderately Priced Hotels• San Pedro Holiday Hotel (Amber-

gris Caye; & 226-2014; www.sanpedroholiday.com): This brilliantlywhite three-building complex withpainted purple and pink trim sits inthe center of San Pedro town. Thiswas the first hotel on Ambergris Cayewhen Celi McCorkle opened it over40 years ago, and it’s still one of thebest. Grab a room with an oceanviewbalcony and you’ll be in tropical vaca-tion heaven. See p. 142.

• Tides Beach Resort (Ambergris Caye;& 226-2283; www.ambergriscaye.com/tides): Every room comes witheither a private or shared balcony orveranda overlooking the CaribbeanSea. The hotel and its in-house diveshop are run by the very friendly andhighly respected local couple ofPatojo and Sabrina Paz. See p. 143.

• Lazy Iguana Bed & Breakfast (CayeCaulker; & 226-0350; www.lazyiguana.net): You can’t beat the viewsfrom the fourth-floor open-airthatched terrace of this intimate bed-and-breakfast. The rooms arespacious and well appointed, andyour hosts are a wealth of knowledgeabout the island. See p. 160.

• Jungle Jeanie’s By The Sea (HopkinsVillage; & 523-7047; www.junglejeaniebythesea.com): Located at thesouthern end of this small traditionalGarífuna fishing village, this is ineffect a new hotel. (Jeanie’s has beenin business many years, but this is anew hotel, in a new location.) Theindividual wooden cabins are juststeps from the ocean on a beautifulpatch of beach. See p. 187.

• Blue Crab Resort (Seine Bight Vil-lage; & 523-3544; www.bluecrabbeach.com): Simple, comfortable, andcool rooms located on a beautiful andisolated patch of beach make this awonderful option. Throw in an excel-lent restaurant serving eclectic inter-national fare, and you’ve got themakings of a perfect getaway. Thisplace is located just a little bit northof the traditional Garífuna village ofSeine Bight. See p. 197.

• Coral House Inn (Punta Gorda;& 722-2878; www.coralhouseinn.net.): By far the best option in thetown of Punta Gorda itself, this newlittle bed-and-breakfast is set right onthe edge of the ocean. The hoteloffers neat rooms, a refreshing pool,

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and free Wi-Fi access throughout itsrooms and grounds. See p. 209.

• Cahal Pech Village Resort (SanIgnacio, Cayo District; & 824-3740;www.cahalpech.com): With a com-manding hillside perch, this collec-tion of individual cabins and hotel

rooms is an excellent option in theSan Ignacio area. The resort is locatedjust beyond the entrance to the CahalPech Mayan ruins, and a whole hostof tours and activities can be arrangedhere. See p. 230.

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12 The Best Budget Hotels

• Belcove Hotel (Belize City; & 227-3054; www.belcove.com): Thisbudget hotel is set on the banks ofHaulover Creek, just a block fromthe Swing Bridge and the heart ofdowntown Belize City. The oldwooden building is in funky shape,but the riverview balconies are one ofmy favorite spots in all of Belize to sitand read a book, or watch the spo-radic action on the river and streetsbelow. See p. 91.

• Hok’ol K’in Guesthouse (CorozalTown; & 442-3329; www.corozal.net): The second-floor oceanfrontrooms at this little hotel are the bestbargains in Corozal Town. The hotelitself is just across the street from asmall seaside promenade that frontsthe beautiful Corozal Bay. See p. 125.

• Ruby’s (Ambergris Caye; & 226-2063; www.ambergriscaye.com/rubys):Located right on the waterfront inthe center of San Pedro, most of therooms here overlook the ocean, andthe best ones come with a balcony.This is one of the older and more his-toric hotels on the island, and youjust can’t do much better on Amber-gris Caye for this price. See p. 143.

• De Real Macaw (Caye Caulker;& 226-0459; www.derealmacaw.com): This small and relatively newcompound on Front Street in CayeCaulker is a great bargain. The hotelis close to all the action, and therooms are clean, cool, and comfort-able. Plenty of trees strung with ham-mocks make this a great place for a

well-deserved tropical siesta. Seep. 161.

• Tree Tops Guest House (CayeCaulker; & 226-0240; www.treetopsbelize.com): While the bestrooms here actually fall into the mod-erately priced category (and are someof the best rooms on Caye Caulker),the whole place offers such goodvalue for your money that it’s gettinga listing in this category. The budgetrooms here continue to set the stan-dard on Caye Caulker, and the serv-ice is friendly, knowledgeable, andattentive. See p. 162.

• Tipple Tree Beya (Hopkins Village;&/fax 520-7006; http://tippletree.net): There are just five simple roomsat this friendly hostel-like option atthe southern end of Hopkins Village.However, if the rooms are full, youcan also camp. The hotel sits on alovely section of beach, and is withineasy walking distance of the smallGarífuna village of Hopkins. Seep. 187.

• Tradewinds (Placencia; & 523-3122;www.placencia.com): Set on a curv-ing spit of sand at the southern edgeof Placencia, the individual cabinshere are so close to the water’s edgethat I worry it’s only a matter of timebefore the ocean reclaims them. Butif you get here soon enough and landone of them, you’ll likely never wantto leave. Each has a private frontporch strung with a hammock, whereyou can swing and listen to the lap-ping waves. See p. 199.

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• Midas Tropical Resort (San Ignacio,Cayo District; & 824-3172; www.midasbelize.com): Sure you can stayin San Ignacio for a little less, but thiscollection of cottages and cabins isjust a half-mile or so from down-town, right on the banks of the MacalRiver. You can also camp here. Thewhole thing has the feel of an isolatednature lodge, at a fraction of the cost.See p. 231.

• Clarissa Falls Resort (San Ignacio,Cayo District; &/fax 824-3916;www.clarissafalls.com): Set on thebanks of the Mopan River at the footof its namesake Clarissa Falls, this

collection of cabins, rooms, abunkhouse, and campsites is one ofthe most popular and vibrant budgetoptions in the Cayo District. OwnerChena Gálvez is as famous for herpleasing demeanor and attentive serv-ice as she is for her wholesomeBelizean cooking. See p. 237.

• Hotel Santana (Flores, Petén,Guatemala; &/fax 502/7926-0262or 7926-0491; www.santanapeten.com): This lakefront hotel is the bestbudget choice on the island of Flores.In fact, it might just be the best hotelon the island itself, regardless ofprice. See p. 271.

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13 The Best Restaurants

• Harbour View (Belize City; & 223-6420): Set on the water’s edge over-looking the juncture of HauloverCreek and the Caribbean Sea, this isthe most creative and elegant restau-rant in Belize City. Fresh seafood andlocal staples are cooked with fusionflare and some Asian accents. If theweather’s right and you land one ofthe outdoor tables on the wrap-around veranda, you’ll enjoy thefinest dining experience available inthe city. See p. 93.

• The Smokey Mermaid (Belize City;& 223-4722): Less formal then theHarbour View, this place also servesup some excellent and eclectic cuisinein a lovely garden setting. This is alsoprobably the best breakfast option inBelize City. See p. 93.

• Wet Lizard (Belize City; & 223-2664): Even less formal than either ofthe two Belize City restaurants men-tioned above, this often-rowdy littlerestaurant and bar still serves upexcellent fresh seafood and burgers,in an open-air setting overlooking theSwing Bridge and Belize Harbor.This is a great place to savor some

late-afternoon conch fritters and arefreshing drink. See p. 93.

• Elvi’s Kitchen (San Pedro, Amber-gris Caye; & 226-2176; www.elviskitchen.com): Elvia Staines has comea long way since she began sellinghamburgers out of a takeout windowover 30 years ago. Today her friendlyand very popular restaurant oozesisland charm. The restaurant is athatched, screened-in building withpicnic tables, with a large flamboyanttree growing up through the roof anda floor of crushed shells and sand. Novisit to Ambergris Caye is completewithout a meal here. See p. 149.

• Palmilla (Ambergris Caye; & 226-2067): This is easily the most elegantand finest dining to be had onAmbergris Caye, if not in all of Belize.The atmosphere is island formal,meaning relaxed yet refined at thesame time, and the chefs here preparethe freshest of local ingredients with acreative blend of techniques, spices,and cuisines from around the world.When the weather’s nice, you candine under the stars by candlelight.See p. 150.

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• Wild Mangos (Ambergris Caye;& 226-2859): Chef Amy Knox wasthe guiding force in creating themenu and reputation of Palmilla (seeabove), and now she’s set up a shop ofher own. Her new restaurant is quitea bit more casual, but the cuisineremains top notch. See p. 148.

• Mambo (Ambergris Caye; & 220-5010): The folks at this isolatedbeach resort serve up very creativeand well-prepared fusion cuisine. Themenu is so wide and varied that you’llwant to eat here with several friends,just to taste as many offerings as pos-sible. Whatever you do, save room fortheir chocolate soufflé dessert. Seep. 150.

• Habaneros (Caye Caulker; & 226-0487): Featuring a creative menu withinfluences from various Caribbeanand Asian cuisines, this is a perennialmust-visit restaurant on Caye Caulker.Be sure to grab one of the outdoortables on the wraparound porch. Seep. 163.

• Rasta Pasta Rainforest Café (CayeCaulker; & 206-0356): This place is

the epitome of funky island charm,but it’s even better than that sounds.Sure you get your sand floor, yourplastic lawn furniture, your view ofthe Caribbean Sea, and your fair doseof vegetarian and Rastafarian-influ-enced menu items. But you also get awide and eclectic menu, huge por-tions, and excellent service. What’smore, the food is delicious and theambience is wonderful. See p. 163.

• Marian’s Bayview (Punta Gorda;& 722-0129): The ambience anddecor here are basic—at best. But themix of Indian and Belizean cuisine issome of the most spectacular insouthern Belize. The small menuchanges regularly, but always includessome of Marian’s expertly preparedspicy East Indian fare. See p. 210.

• La Luna (Flores, Guatemala; & 502/7926-3346): If you find yourself inFlores, Guatemala, be sure to seekout this hip little restaurant. Theeclectic decor varies from room toroom, but like the food, it is consis-tently creative and tasteful. Seep. 273.

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14 The Best After-Dark FunBelize doesn’t really have all that much inthe way of nightlife. The capital city issmall and relatively quiet by most inter-national standards. In both the capitaland throughout the rest of the country,you’d be hard-pressed to find a trulynotable bar or club. Still, some uniqueafter-dark destinations and activities areout there, and should not be missed.

• Stargazing: This is one of my favoritenighttime activities, but it is espe-cially rewarding when there is no (orlittle) ambient light. Given its sparsedevelopment and low populationdensity, Belize offers a wealth ofopportunities for some truly spectacu-lar stargazing. Your best spots are the

isolated beach getaways of Belize’sthree mid-ocean atolls, but you canalso enjoy the astronomical splendorfrom any number of deserted beachesor rural mountain getaways.

• Night Diving: If you’ve come toBelize to scuba dive, you should defi-nitely try a night dive. Many crea-tures are nocturnal, and the reefs herecome alive at night. Moreover, thebrilliant colors of the coral and sealife really shine under the strong glareof an underwater light, and there’ssomething truly eerie about the experi-ence. All of the major dive destina-tions and resorts offer night diving.See chapter 4 and the destinationchapters for more details.

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• Barefoot Iguana (Ambergris Caye):This cavernous bar features every-thing from hot new DJs to mudwrestling to sporting events shownon a giant screen. The two-storyhangar-sized space is hung with fauxjungle plants and foliage, and it hasquickly become the most happeningnightspot in San Pedro. See “Amber-gris Caye” in chapter 7.

• Sugar Reef Lounge (Placencia;& 523-3289): Placencia is a smallvillage. On Wednesday nights, itseems like the entire town heads tothe Sugar Reef Lounge for theirkaraoke night. On other nights of theweek, this is also one of the better

spots in town to hang out after thesun goes down. See “Placencia” inchapter 8.

• Moon Rise at Tikal: Watching thefull moon rise from the top of Tem-ple IV in Tikal is one of the high-lights of my many travels to thisregion. You’ll have to stay at one ofthe hotels on-site to do this, and youmay even have to persuade or bribe apark guard. You’ll also have to timeyour visit with the moon phase. Butif all these things come together,you’re in for a memorable and awe-inspiring evening. See “Tikal” inchapter 10.

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15 The Best Websites About Belize• Latin America Network Informa-

tion Center (http://.lanic.utexas.edu/la/ca/belize): Hosted by the Uni-versity of Texas Latin American Stud-ies Department, this site houses a vastcollection of information aboutBelize. This is hands-down the bestone-stop shop for Web browsing onthe country, with helpful links to awide range of tourism and general-information sites.

• Belize By Naturelight (www.belizenet.com): This is probably the singlebest collection of links to Belize’sindividual hotels, restaurants, andattractions. The site also boasts linksto the various regions and destina-tions within Belize, as well as links tomost other major and importantwebsites on the country.

• The Belize Forums (www.belizeforum.com): These are active andinformative forums on living in andtraveling around Belize. Several regu-lar posters are quite knowledgeable,and are generous with that knowledge.

• Belize News (www.belizenews.com):This site provides access to all of

Belize’s major online news sources,including all the major weekly printnewspapers.

• Belize Kriol (www.kriol.org.bz): Ifyou want to know about Belize’sKriol (Creole) culture, this is theplace to go. The site includes pageson Kriol history, culture, and lan-guage. There’s a handy spelling guideand Kriol dictionary here as well.

• The Toucan Trail (www.toucantrail.com): This is an excellent site gearedtowards budget travelers, with extensivelinks and comprehensive information.

• Belize Tourist Board (www.travelbelize.org): This is the official site ofthe Belize Tourist Board. It has its fairshare of information and links,although you’ll probably end upbeing directed to one of the othersites mentioned earlier.

• Belize Magazine (www.belizemagazine.com): This online site isfashioned after a typical glossy maga-zine. The articles, interviews,insights, and information are allexcellent, and you can read all of theback issues online.

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