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THE CAMBRIAN WAYCLASSIC WALES MOUNTAIN TREK

SOUTH TO NORTH FROM CARDIFF TO CONWY

by George Tod with Richard Tyler

About the AuthorsGeorge Tod is a semi-retired IT support engineer and has long held a passion for long-distance mountain walking, starting with the Pennine Way in 1991. He has completed the Cambrian Way four times, the first in 2000. In 2005, at the request of Tony Drake who brought the route to fruition, he set up the Cambrian Way website and has continually updated and revised both this and Tony Drake’s original guidebook, Cambrian Way: The Mountain Connoisseur’s Walk. His major contribution to this guide has been the compilation of the route descriptions and mapping.

Richard Tyler is a retired solicitor who has enjoyed a lifetime of walking in the Welsh mountains. He has considerable experience of long-distance hill and mountain walking in the UK, the Alps and the Himalaya. Richard carried out a full walk and survey of the Cambrian Way, finishing in 2016. He is chair of the Cambrian Way Trust, footpath secretary for Ramblers Powys Area and, at the time of publication, chair of Powys Local Access Forum.

JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS, OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, CUMBRIA LA9 7RL

www.cicerone.co.uk

© The Cambrian Way Trust 2019First edition 2019ISBN: 978 1 85284 990 0

Printed in China on behalf of Latitude Press LtdA catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.All photographs are by the authors unless otherwise stated.Geology section and map by Alan Bowring and Dilys Harlow.

© Crown copyright 2019 OS PU100012932

Front cover: The dramatic outcrop of Craig Maesglese (Stage 14)

CONTENTS

Map key . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Overview map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10–11Route summary table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12–13Trek planner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14–17

INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19The mountain connoisseurs’ walk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Wales, its history, people and language . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21Geology and landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23Plants and animals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27When to go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29Travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30Accommodation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31Kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Waymarking and navigation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33Food, water and supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Emergencies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35Using this guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

THE ROUTE Stage 1 Cardiff to Machen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38Stage 2 Machen to Pontypool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48Stage 3 Pontypool to Abergavenny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56Stage 4 Abergavenny to Capel-y-ffin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64Stage 5 Capel-y-ffin to Crickhowell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Stage 6 Crickhowell to Storey Arms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79Stage 7 Storey Arms to Glyntawe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95Stage 8 Glyntawe to Llandovery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Stage 9 Llandovery to Tŷ’n-y-cornel Hostel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115Stage 10 Tŷ’n-y-cornel Hostel to Claerddu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124Stage 11 Claerddu to Ponterwyd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133Stage 12 Ponterwyd to Dylife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Stage 13 Dylife to Dinas Mawddwy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149Stage 14 Dinas Mawddwy to Bwlch Llyn Bach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163Stage 15 Bwlch Llyn Bach to Barmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171Stage 16 Barmouth to Cwm Bychan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180Stage 16/17A Bad-weather route to Moelfryn following Taith Ardudwy Way . . 191Stage 17 Cwm Bychan to Maentwrog . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196Stage 18 Maentwrog to Beddgelert . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205Stage 19 Beddgelert to Pen-y-Pass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217Stage 20 Pen-y-Pass to Llyn Ogwen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224Stage 21 Llyn Ogwen to Conwy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230

Updates to this GuideWhile every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Any updates that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk/990/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grate-ful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL.

Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk.

Appendix A The checkpoints . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242Appendix B Glossary of Welsh words and places on the Cambrian Way . . . . 243Appendix C Useful contacts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246Appendix D Accommodation list . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248

The Cambrian Way includes the 690m summit of Cnicht (Stage 18)

AcknowledgementsThis guide could not have been written without the hard work of numerous people starting with Tony Drake, the Gloucestershire Area Footpath Secretary of The Ramblers’ Association (now The Ramblers), who devoted much of his life to walking the mountains of Wales and who worked for many years in finding the best route from south to north. Tony was also very involved in the creation of the Cotswold Way and Offa’s Dyke Path.

Since his death in 2012, his work has been carried on by the Ramblers Cambrian Way Working Group and the Cambrian Way Trust.

Thanks are due to Jacky Cross, Tony Drake, Max Grant, Amanda Hill, Mavis and Bob Rear, Oliver Wicks, Ramblers GB, Ramblers Cymru, Snowdonia and Brecon Beacons national parks and members of Ramblers groups along the route.

Special acknowledgement is due to Dilys Harlow and Alan Browning for supplying the geology section and downloadable geology map and table.

Every mountain walk has its dangers, and those described in this guidebook are no exception. All who walk or climb in the mountains should recognise this and take responsibility for themselves and their companions along the way. The author and publisher have made every effort to ensure that the information contained in this guide was correct when it went to press, but, except for any liability that cannot be excluded by law, they cannot accept responsibility for any loss, injury or inconve-nience sustained by any person using this book. International distress signal (emergency only)Six blasts on a whistle (and flashes with a torch after dark) spaced evenly for one minute, followed by a minute’s pause. Repeat until an answer is received. The response is three signals per minute followed by a minute’s pause.

Helicopter rescueThe following signals are used to communicate with a helicopter:

Emergency telephone numbers UK: 999

Help required:raise both armsabove head to

form a ‘V’

Help not required:raise one arm above

head, extend otherarm downward

Help required:raise both armsabove head to

form a ‘V’

Help not required:raise one arm above

head, extend otherarm downward

Help not needed:raise one armabove head, extend other arm downward

Help needed:raise both armsabove head to form a ‘Y’

Weather reports www.mwis.org.uk

Mountain safety

8

The Cambrian Way

9

The extracts from OS maps usedin this book have been reproduced at 1:50,000

0km

1

GPX files for all routes can be downloaded free at www.cicerone.co.uk/990/GPX.

>800m600m400m200m75m0m

route

alternative route

start point

finish point

alternative start point

alternative start point

route direction

County/Unitary boundary

National boundary

rail services

Urban area

National Park eg BRECON BEACONS

Forest Park/National Foresteg National Forest

Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty/National Scenic Areaeg Clwydian Range

Features on the overview mapRoute symbols on OS map extracts(for OS legend see printed OS maps)

Conwy from Conwy Mountain (Stage 21)

Bwlch y Ddwy Glyder provides an excellent view over Nant Ffrancon (Stage 20)

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12

The Cambrian Way

13

rOuTe summary Table

ROUTE SUMMARY TABLE

Stage Start/finish Distance Ascent Descent Time Page

1 Cardiff to Machen 24.5km (15¼ miles) 480m (1570ft) 440m (1440ft) 6–7¼hr 38

2 Machen to Pontypool 18.5km (11½ miles) 830m (2720ft) 770m (2520ft) 5¾–6¾hr 48

3 Pontypool to Abergavenny 20km (12¼ miles) 580m (1890ft) 640m (2080ft) 5–6¼hr 56

4 Abergavenny to Capel-y-ffin 21.5km (13¼ miles) 1130m (3700ft) 870m (2850ft) 6¼–8hr 64

5 Capel-y-ffin to Crickhowel 26.5km (16½ miles) 950m (3110ft) 1180m (3860ft) 7–9hr 71

6 Crickhowell to Storey Arms 33.5km (21 miles) 1720m (5630ft) 1370m (4490ft) 9¾–12½hr 79

7 Storey Arms to Glyntawe 19km (11¾ miles) 690m (2250ft) 930m (3040ft) 5–6¼hr 95

8 Glyntawe to Llandovery 29.5km (18½ miles) 1360m (4460ft) 1500m (4930ft) 8¼–10¾hr 105

9 Llandovery to Tŷ’n-y-cornel 26km (16 miles) 870m (2850ft) 620m (2030ft) 6¾–8½hr 115

10 Tŷ’n-y-cornel to Claerddu 23.5km (14½ miles) 820m (2700ft) 690m (2250ft) 6¼–7¾hr 124

11 Claerddu to Ponterwyd 24km (14¾ miles) 910m (2970ft) 1140m (3740ft) 6½–8¼hr 133

12 Ponterwyd to Dylife 23.5km (14½ miles) 920m (3030ft) 780m (2550ft) 6½–8¼hr 141

13 Dylife to Dinas Mawddwy 37km (23 miles) 1470m (4820ft) 1740m (5720ft) 10–12¾hr 149

14 Dinas Mawddwy to Bwlch Llyn Bach 15.5km (9½ miles) 1170m (3830ft) 980m (3210ft) 5–6¾hr 163

15 Bwlch Llyn Bach to Barmouth 20km (12½ miles) 970m (3180ft) 1240m (4070ft) 5¾–7½hr 171

16 Barmouth to Cwm Bychan 23km (14 miles) 1690m (5540ft) 1530m (5020ft) 8½–10¾hr* 180

17 Cwm Bychan to Maentwrog 16km (9¾ miles) 860m (2810ft) 1000m (3290ft) 5½–7hr* 196

18 Maentwrog to Beddgelert 22km (13½ miles) 1340m (4390ft) 1320m (4320ft) 7–8¾hr 205

19 Beddgelert to Pen-y-Pass 17.5km (10¾ miles) 1390m (4560ft) 1060m (3490ft) 5¾–7¾hr 217

20 Pen-y-Pass to Llyn Ogwen 8.5km (5½ miles) 810m (2670ft) 870m (2860ft) 4–5hr* 224

21 Llyn Ogwen to Conwy 30.5km (19 miles) 1580m (5180ft) 1870m (6120ft) 9–11½hr 230

Total 479km (298 miles) 22,460m (73,700ft) 22,480m (73,760ft) 136–174hr

* extra hour added for slow progress

14

The Cambrian Way

15

140

150

190

180

200

210

220

230

240

250

260

160

170

320

330

310

300

290

280

270

260

250

240

230

220

340

KM from Cardi (cont)

KM from Conwy (cont)

Storey Arms

Fan Dringarth

PenwylltTawe Bridge

Llanddeusant

Myddfai

Llandovery

Pendrainllwyn

RhandirmwynRhandirmwyn Bridge

Nant Lluest-fach

Ty’n-y-cornel

Nantymaen junctionSN 744 595

Garn Gron

Strata Florida

Claerddu

Rhos-tyddynDevil’s Bridge

1km

7.7km

1.9km

2.8km7.4km

Brecon

Ystradfellte

Craig-y-nosGlyntawe

Tregaron

13.5km

0.7km1.1km

0.4km0.7km

3.6km

7.8km8km

8.1km

Pontrhydfendigaid6.2km

Pontrhydfendigaid1.8km

5.3km 0.3km0.9km

0

10

50

40

60

70

80

90

100

110

120

130

20

30

470

480

440

450

430

420

410

400

390

380

370

360

350

460

KM from Cardi


Cardi�

M4 junction

Tongwynlais

Thornhill

Rudry

Machen

Risca

Mynydd HenllysMynydd Maen

Pontypool

Mynydd Ganclochdy

BlorengeAbergavenny

Chain Road

Bâl Bach

Blacksmith’s AnvilCapel-y- n

SO 202 323

CrickhowellLlangattockDarren Cilau

Blaen-dy�ryn Crawnon

Rhandirmwyn Bridge

3km

0.8km

0.8km3.5km

1.8km 0.8km

1km

3.4km

2.3km

2.9km

5.2km

0.4km1.8km

6.6km5.7km

9km

0.5km3.2km

0.8km3.4km

1.8km

Caerphilly

Draethen

Crosskeys

Llanthony

DanywenalltAbercynafonTalybont-on-Usk

Cwmbran

1.3km

The Cambrian Way Trek Planner

16

The Cambrian Way

17

400

410

440

430

450

460

470

480

420 60

70

80

30

40

20

10

0

50

KM from Cardi� (cont)

KM from Conwy

Moelfryn

MaentwrogTan-y-bwlch

DdualltMoelwyn Mine

Cnicht (SH 628 450)

NantmorBeddgelert

Cau-duBryn Dinas

Bethania

Snowdon summitBwlch Glas

Pen-y-Pass

The Miners’ TrackOgwen

Tal y Llyn Ogwen

Foel Grach

Bwlch y DdeufaenE end of Tal y Fan ridge

Pensychnant

Conwy

1km3.4km Trawsfynydd

TanygrisiauBlaenau Ffestiniog

4.8km

0.7km

1.5km1.8km

1.7km4.3km

0.5km Croesor

1.7km

1.9km

Nant Colwyn

Llanberis

Pen-y-Gwryd

Capel Curig

1.7km1km

0.8km

6.6km

6.2km

1.1km6.8km1.5km

1.9km

1.5km

2.9km

Capel Curig

Capelulo

3km

0.8kmRhiwRowen0.8km

NOTE: Bus services are very limited and/or irregular, and may not operate on Sundays.Post o�ce services may not be available every day.

RefreshmentsParking

Hotel/B&B/Pub with roomsHostel (self catering)/Bunkhouse

Hostel (with catering)

Bothy

Camping

Pub Shop

Shelter

ATM

Post o�ce

Toilets

Railway

BusCamping pods

Symbol Key

270

280

310

300

320

330

340

350

360

370

380

390

290 190

200

180

170

160

150

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130

120

110

100

90

210

KM from Cardi (cont)


Ponterwyd

SN 864 935Dylife

Commins CochCommins Gwalia

MallwydMaes-y-camlanDinas Mawddwy

Bwlch Llyn Bach

Pony Path

Llynnau CregennenArthog

Barmouth HarbourSH 619 159

Bwlch Drws Ardudwy

Bwlch TyddiadCwm Bychan

0.7km

7.5km8km

8.3km

SN 873 904 4.1kmPennant

Cemmaes

Minllyn

Min�ordd

4.4km

3.4km0.4km

0.9km

0.5km

3.4km

Garth-yfogBrynhyfryd

3.5km6.4km

3km

Dol-�anog

4.8km

Tal-y-llyn

Islaw’r-dref Dolgellau

6.6km

Bunkorama

BronaberLlanbedr

0.6km

2.8km

BronaberHarlech

1.3km

7.5km8km10km

1.5kmBarmouth0.7km

2km

18

The Cambrian Way

19

THE MOUNTAIN CONNOISSEURS’ WALK

The Cambrian Way starts in the south of Wales at Cardiff Castle in the centre of the country’s capital city and ends at Conwy, the mighty northern fortress of a town. Both castles were built in the 12th century by the Normans in an endeav-our to keep the rebellious people of Wales under control. Between the two lies glorious verdant countryside featur-ing steep-sided valleys with streams and waterfalls, picturesque rolling hills, an abundance of high ridges and, in the north, rugged, cragged and challeng-ing mountains. Much of the route runs through two national parks – Brecon Beacons and Snowdonia – as well as most of the areas in Wales that have been designated as wilderness.

Tempting as it may be, the Cambrian Way should not be the first outing attempted by the novice trekker. It is nearly 300 miles long and much of the route is in open access country, requir-ing good navigational skills. Some sec-tions are long and remote, and accom-modation can be rudimentary. While the mountains are not high, reaching a little over 1000m, the isolation and the chal-lenge of the highest peaks require good mountain walking experience. Much of the route has been waymarked using the Cambrian Way Welsh hat symbol, but waymarks are not generally found on the mountain sections of the way. As the route follows public rights of way from footpaths to roads a whole variety of other waymarks will be found, but this can be at times misleading where

Descent into Glyntawe (Stage 7; photo: Oliver Wicks)

INTRODUCTION

Llyn Caseg-fraith and Y Foel Goch from the rock-strewn Glyder Fach (Stage 20)

38

The Cambrian Way sTage 1 – Cardiff TO maChen

39

STAGE 1

Cardiff to Machen

Cardiff Castle may look relatively modern, but it is on the site of a third-century Roman fort and the original motte-and-bailey castle was built by the Normans in the 11th century. Huge changes were made in Victorian times to turn it into a fairytale castle, but the old castle keep has survived and the remains of old stonework can be seen at the base of the outside walls. The magnificent clock tower and many other parts were built by the Bute family with their great wealth derived from coal and iron. The Animal Wall in front of the castle, built in the 1890s, contained many grotesque gargoyles, but road widening after World War 1 meant that the whole wall was moved along the road towards the bridge and more animals were added. Weathering caused a lot of damage, so they were extensively restored in 2010.

Start Cardiff Castle (ST 181 765)Finish A468 near St John’s Church, Machen (ST 212 892)Distance 24.5km (15¼ miles)Total ascent 480m (1570ft)Total descent 440m (1440ft)Time 6–7¼hrMaps OS Explorer 151 and 152; OS Landranger 171Refreshments Tongwynlais, Thornhill, RudryPublic transport Wide range of rail and bus services at Cardiff; bus service

to Caerphilly from MachenAccommodation Cardiff; Rudry 19.5km (+1km); Draethen 22.5km (+1km);

Caerphilly (+7km)

The walk starts with fine parkland on the banks of Afon Taff and continues with some canal bank and road walking over and under a large road interchange to climb to Castell Coch. Beyond this, there is ridge walking on forest tracks and farmland with fine views to the Brecon Beacons and the Severn Estuary before descending steeply to the old mining village of Machen.

Starting from the entrance to Cardiff Castle, which is Checkpoint 1, go W towards Afon Taff for 300 metres to find the gates of Bute Park on the right.

Alternative route along the west bankVery early starters might find that the park gates are locked (they are open from 7.30am until 30 minutes before sunset). However, the west bank route through Sophia Gardens is almost equally attractive. Return to the east bank after 200 metres by a suspension footbridge.

It is planned to place a plaque here to mark the Cambrian Way.

Cardiff Castle’s impressive entrance

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40


41

Easy wide paths lead through Bute Park, and there is a choice of walking by the river-side or through formal gardens. After 1.2km the path enters woodland lining the riverbank, passing a weir and footbridge 700 metres further along where the Taff Trail crosses the river to join the Cambrian Way. The route follows the river as it turns to the west for a further 1km, at which point cross the Gabalfa bridge to visit Llandaff Cathedral.3Across the bridge, take the riverside path W for 600 metres, passing by Cardiff University, then turn left and walk across playing fields for 150 metres to reach the cathedral.

Head WNW from the cathedral for 400 metres, going near to the river but round to the left of Llandaff Rowing Club, then join the A4054 road near Llandaff Bridge. It is possible to return to the east bank of the Taff by crossing here, but the route follows the west bank along Radyr Court Road, a minor riverside road.

After 900 metres do not turn left under a railway bridge but continue along a riverside path for a further 950 metres, swinging from NW to NE round a bend in the river. The next

If short of time, this diversion can be

omitted by continuing along the Taff Trail to rejoin the route

at Whitchurch.

bridge is a railway bridge with a pedes-trian walkway at the far side; cross the bridge and follow a path NE, with trees on

the left and a housing estate on the right, for 200 metres until it joins Ty-Mawr

Road through a residential area of Whitchurch.

After 250 metres bear left, where Ty-Mawr Road joins the wider Forest Farm road, and follow this for 150 metres. Then, do not follow the Taff Trail, which con-tinues along the riverbank – instead look out for the entrance to the Glamorgan Canal Nature Reserve on

the right, and follow the left bank of the disused

canal for 1.4km

unt i l i t comes to an end, passing old lock gates and water lilies on the canal. This is a tranquil place for a break, with the occasional heron and other wildlife, and old tree trunks for seating.

Look out for the restored Melingriffith water pump on the left shortly after joining the road.

Glamorgan Canal Nature Reserve

(photo: Oliver Wicks)

Map continues on page 44

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43

At the end of the canal, climb a steep bank with steps to the busy M4 motorway intersection. A series of pedestrian walkways and bridges cross this ‘spaghetti’ junction (see map). First cross a road then pass behind a petrol station to reach a footbridge – from which there is a view of Castell Coch (‘red castle’) on the hillside ahead – then take two underpasses and cross over a footbridge to reach the A4054 (Merthyr Road), a total of 700 metres from the canal. Follow the A4054 NW for 700 metres into Tongwynlais.

Turn right in the centre of Tongwynlais and head N up Mill Road, which then becomes Castle Road. Ignore any turnings until you reach the main entrance gate for vehi-cles after 600 metres, then turn sharp left past car parks and continue for 350 metres to reach Castell Coch, which is Checkpoint 2.

Castell Coch is a fairytale-style Victorian castle built on Norman foundations. It was a complete ruin until 1870, at which point it was rebuilt as a country residence for the 3rd Marquess of Bute. The internal decor is lavish and worth a visit. It is now owned by Cadw, the Welsh body that looks after historical buildings, and it is open to the public most months of the year. See https://cadw.gov.wales for details.

From the castle, turn sharp right on a path going NE up the fairly steep hillside through the forest, another part of the Taff Trail. Do not follow the Taff Trail where it turns left after 300 metres, but keep straight on along the main forest track, which climbs more gently and provides easier walking for 1.6km through Fforest-fawr (‘big forest’), first heading N then NE. A number of tracks join or cross but keep to the main track.

At ST 136 836, The Arches or Three Bears Caves can be seen on the left along with an explana-tory board telling of their history as three mine entrances, or adits. The site is now in use as a set-ting for a number of film and TV scenes in produc-tions that include Doctor Who, Merlin, Sherlock, Harry Potter and Robin Hood. A short way after this is the start of a Sculpture Trail running parallel to the main route; an interesting alternative that adds very little extra distance.

There are pubs, shops and a fish-and-chip shop in Tongwynlais, and hotels and B&Bs near the M4 interchange.

Unfortunately, there are no views here, although there are some points of interest along the way.

footbridge

footbridge

underpass

underpass

filling station

canal

walk across road

M4M4

Northern AvenueA470

Longwood Drive

Longwood Drive

A470

A47

0

A470

A470

Merthyr Road

A4054

Castle View

Green

mea

dow

Dri

ve

Cwm G

wynlals

Pwllhe

lyg

footbridge

footbridge

underpass

underpass

filling station

canal

walk across road

1001000

N

m

44


45

At the end of the Sculpture Trail there is a car park and 150 metres further on the track joins Hoel-Y-Fforest, a minor road coming up the valley from Tongwynlais. Cross the road and turn sharp right near an information board along a track into Fforestganol (‘central forest’), heading SSE then S through the forest along the eastern side of the valley. Look out for a path on the left heading ESE up the hillside, ignor-ing the first path after 100 metres and taking the bet-ter path after 200 metres (not shown on OS maps). This joins a road in 100 metres after going up some steps.

Turn right along the road and walk for a short way until a track forks off sharp left at Bwlch-y-cwm (‘pass of the valley’). Take the track, which fol-lows the ridge NNE through woodland at first and past a quarry on the left, entering an area with fewer trees and better views of the country-side. The way goes in and out of small sections of woodland, passing a farm on the right and

a few gates before reaching the Ridgeway Golf Course at Thornhill after 1.5km.

The right of way goes through the middle of the course, so beware of flying golf balls!At this point the Rhymney Valley Ridgeway Walk joins the Cambrian Way. A 300-metre walk down the golf course access road leads to the A469 Thornhill Road. The Travellers’ Rest pub is about 100 metres to the right, but the route goes across the road past a large farm where it continues to follow the Ridgeway Walk.

Go E along the edge of woodland for 800 metres with some views to the right between the trees. Continue on the Ridgeway Walk for the next 300 metres before passing below an overhead power line and entering more woodland, then turn left after a gate. Before descending very far, after 100 metres turn right to follow a track through the trees along the hillside.After 400 metres of fairly level walking along the gently sloping hillside, the main route forks left to go around an old quarry, but a path straight ahead leads to the edge of the quarry, which has some of the best views along the ridge, making it a fine place to take a rest.

From the ridge there are fine views

north overlooking the Rhymney Valley and Caerphilly with its mag-

nificent castle. One of the castle’s towers leans at an angle that seems to defy gravity.

The club’s restaurant is on the route and is open to walkers.

The forest floor is carpeted with wild garlic, which has white flowers and a strong scent in early summer.

Three Bears Caves

Map continues on page 47

46


47

On a clear day it is even possible to see Pen y Fan in the Brecon Beacons – visited on Stage 6 of the walk, five days ahead. To the south is Cardiff and the Bristol Channel.

A short drop down the hillside from the quarry allows you to rejoin the route as it skirts around N of the quarry before climbing back up onto the ridge after 400 metres. (Ignore the right of way through the quarry shown on OS maps – it is impractical.) Follow the ridge for 200 metres ENE through patchy woodland to the open ridge of Cefn Onn (‘ash tree ridge’). After 500 metres cross a minor road and continue along the ridge as it climbs and then stead-ily descends for 1.3km.3Continue ahead along the track through the wood for a further 550 metres, dropping further to a dip with a wide metal gate across the track.

There is a secret World War 2 bunker at ST 199 865, up a small hill to the right, but this can easily be missed as it is somewhat hidden in the trees. It was a communication and operation centre in the event of an invasion, with a deep, well-concealed bunker and an aerial hidden in the trees. An infor-mation board shows what it looked like.

Here a path to the N leads down to

Rudry (300 metres) for those seeking accommodation.

Continue W on the track and descend from the ridge after 350 metres to come out at a crossroads by the Maenllwyd Inn. Take the road going NE to the right of the inn for 400 metres, keeping to the right where a road forks off to the left. Where the road turns left towards Penhow Farm after a further 450 metres, turn right to enter the forest through an opening in the trees at SN 208 871 and take the forest track going ENE past old lead mines for 400 metres, shortly entering Coed Cefn-pwll-du.There are a number of forest tracks, but the route follows the main wide track as it swings N then W and N again, gradually descending to reach a minor road where the forest ends after 1.9km at ST 211 888.

Cross the road and head NNE down a lane towards Afon Rhymni for 300 metres, passing houses on the right. At the end of the lane turn left and continue for 100 metres then turn right over the bridge and go straight ahead for 100 metres to the A468. Turn right and continue for 100 metres to the point where a road leads up past the church on the left.

This is Machen, the end of the stage. There are not many facili-ties here, but there is a bus service to Caerphilly and beyond (turn left instead of right along the A468 and continue for 150 metres to a bus stop past the school). There is also a con-venience store on a road to the left past the church.

For accommodation in Draethen (800 metres off-route), take the track that forks right at ST 212 873.

View from the old quarry on Cefn Onn

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