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The Comprehensive Balkans Tour: Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Montenegro, Albania, Macedonia, Kosovo, Serbia

August 30-October 1, 2021 (33 Days)

PART ONE: Historic Villages of the Adriatic

Hvar Island, Croatia

Slovenia

Day 1 Aug 30 Arrival Ljubljana, Slovenia / Lake Bled, Hotel Lovec 4* located on the lakeshore in the center of the little town. Met on arrival and transfer 20-30 min to Lake Bled. (Ljubljana airport is closer to Lake Bled then to town itself).

Day 2 Aug 31 Bled (B,L) Hotel Lovec 4* The sequence of activities is subject to change depending on various factors including weather, crowds and traffic.

Morning tour of Lake Bled: visit the fairy tale Bled Castle and the medieval city perched on a high cliff 100 m above the lake. Ride in a traditional Pletna boat to St. Mary’s Church on Bled Island in the middle of the Lake.

Enjoy a cable car ride to Mt Vogel where we enjoy outstanding views and a light lunch of barley soup and strudel in an alpine hut.

Afterwards, a scenic 30 min drive to Bohinj Valley. Lake Bohinj lies in Triglav National Park. At a length of 4100m, width 1200m and 45m at its deepest point, Bohinj is the largest and deepest lake in Slovenia. It lies wedged in a glacial valley of the Julian Alps, surrounded on all sides by soaring mountain backdrops and lovely little villages.

We shall visit a remote village in Upper Bohinj Valley. Here group members can select from two options. One option is to visit an 18th century museum and the cheese making museum called Museum of Alpine Dairy Farming in village Stara Fužina (hours are unpredictable). This museum is located in a former village cheese making facility from 1883, where cheese was produced until as late as 1967. On display at the museum is the original cheese making shop along with original cheese making tools, cheese vats and accessories, as well as objects used by the shepherds in their work in the mountain pastures. We also see a wooden interior of a shepherd’s hut from the Zajamniki settlement, dating from 1849.

Option two is a pleasant walk partially through the woods and partially through the village which starts close to the cheese factory. You will circle around Village Stara Fuzina and back to the cheese factory. The walk takes about 1 hour.

Return to the Lake Bled town. Rest of afternoon/evening is at leisure.

Day 3 Sept 1 Ljubljana-Portoroz/Piran (B) - Hotel Piran 4*

We shall depart by 830 am this morning for the one hour drive to Ljubljana. On arrival we enjoy a walking tour (about 1.5 hour) of the pedestrian only city center and a cable ride up to the Castle. Ljubljana is a beautiful capital with eye-candy architecture at every turn and a pleasant relaxed atmosphere, making it a joy to walk about. The city architecture is a mix of styles. Despite the appearance of large buildings, especially at the city's edge, Ljubljana's historic centre remains intact. Although the oldest architecture has been preserved from the Roman period, Ljubljana's downtown outline is the Middle Ages. After the 1511 earthquake it was rebuilt in the Baroque style following Italian, particularly Venetian, models. After the quake in 1895, it was once again rebuilt, this time in the Vienna Secession style, which today is juxtaposed against the earlier Baroque style buildings that remain. The symbol of the city is the Ljubljana Dragon. It is depicted on the top of the tower of the Ljubljana Castle in the Ljubljana coat-of-arms and on the Ljubljanica River crossing Dragon Bridge (Zmajski Most).

You will enjoy lunch here on your own. There are many cafes and restaurants to choose from all in the pedestrian zone.

Afterwards, we drive approx 1 hour to Postojna to visit the famous cave. You will board an electric train for a 10 minute ride and then about 1 hour guided walk inside the cave. Wear non-skid shoes and warm layers of clothing. The constant temperature in the caves ranges from 8 to 10° C.

Postojna Cave is a network of 20 kilometres of passages, galleries and chambers into which experienced guides have accompanied more than 31 million visitors in the last 188 years. It is the largest cave in the “classic karst” and the most visited show cave in Europe. In 1872 railway lines were laid in the cave; electricity arrived in 1884. The electric lighting allows you to admire the size and splendor of the underground world, where the geological past is recorded in a unique manner. You will be dazzled by a wealth of speleothems: calcite formations, stalactites and stalagmites abounding in a variety of shapes, colors and age.

We culminate the day with a 30 minute drive to the small coastal town Piran. Unlike Portoroz, a modern coastal resort (looks like Nice), Piran is a medieval pirate town with typical atmosphere of stony buildings and narrow streets. Many options for dining here either in the tiny town square or along the seaside. Enjoy the atmosphere around the main square the historic center before dark.

Croatia Day 4 Sep 2 Villages of Istria: Motovun- Višnjan - Groznjan- Buje-Porec (B) / GH Palazzo We will start the morning with a guided walking tour of Piran, a quaint old town with lots of character, wonderful architecture and a place where you will see local residents meeting at the town square for coffees and children playing.

We’ll depart Piran at about 11 am. The drive today crosses Istra Peninsula. Along the way we visit local villages all located on the top of the hills (like in Provence, France); a few are turned into artist colonies with lots of galleries and small craft shops. The drive without stops would be only 2 hours, but we will enjoy a full leisurely day.

We start our day by crossing the border from Slovenia into Croatia, leaving the coast to explore picturesque old villages of Istria inland. We visit the villages of Motovun, Visnjan, Groznjan and Buje, before returning to the coast.

With its elegant system of towers, walls, gates and piazzas, the hilltop village of Motovun is a striking example of Venetian colonial architecture. Perched on a hill some 227m above sea level, Motovun is the most attractive town in the Istria interior. Sightseeing in Motovun is a trip into the past when the town was part of the Venetian empire. Reminders of the former Venetian rulers are everywhere: 14th century stone lions (Venice's symbol) stand sentry over the town gates and coats of arms adorn the buildings. Architect Andrea Palladio designed the late-Renaissance town church of St. Stephen. Francesco Bonazzo contributed the marble statues of St. Stephen and St. Laurence, and an unknown 17th-century Venetian produced the painting of the Last Supper behind the church's altar. Other sightseeing highlights include the Renaissance Municipal Palace, the largest secular building in Istria from that period. Notice also the water cisterns of the town in the town square with pipes that date from the 14th and 15th centuries.

On arrival in Motovun, we shall stop for light lunch at one of the cafes (pay direct) before proceeding on our guided walking tour: Passing along the cobblestone street at the foot of the hill, you will see the Gothic chapel of St. Anthony the Abbot (Sv. Anton) from the 15th century. This street leads you to the town gate decorated with a relief of the Venetian lion from 1517 with the town’s pride hiding behind it - the old town square. Partly surrounded by town walls built in the 13th and 14th century the square is adorned by a 27 meter high bell-tower, 18th century Municipal loggia, water-well and the Parish church of SS. Quiricus and Julita (Sv. Kvirik i Julita) dating from the 19th century. From the water-well, as if on the palm of your hand, there is an all-embracing view of the landscape reaching the sea - over the fields, vineyards and scattered small houses of the nearby villages.

Optionally, take a walk around the town walls of Motovun, if you like. The sweeping view takes in the vineyards that produce Motovun's fine Terrain and Malvasija wine and the forests that hide Istria's prized white and black truffles.

Inhabitants of Višnjan are known as very diligent people. They cherish their fields, vineyards and cattle as their greatest treasure. They have succeeded in preserving their autochthonism and therefore they can offer a rich variety of traditional Istrian dishes, quality wines from renowned wine-makers, olive oil and many other traditional and ecological products, which you can savor in the pleasant ambience of a wine cellar, traditional inn, restaurant or agri-tourism.

Groznjan, an ancient town in northwestern Istria, fifteen km from the sea, takes great pride in its wealth of tradition, cultural heritage and natural beauty, all of which is ennobled by art. Today, numerous cultural and historical landmarks serve as backdrops for cultural manifestations and entertainment. Here, one can attend frequent concerts of classical music, a jazz festival, the painting manifestation Ex Tempore, and numerous exhibitions at the municipal gallery and approximately twenty private galleries and studios. Have a walk around the area or just enjoy magnificent landscapes and views in the quiet atmosphere.

The Buje Region stretches from the River Mirna to the river Dragonja, which also marks the borderline with the Republic of Slovenia. This is an area with wavelike hills covered with vineyards, olive groves and fields sprinkled with oak, cerris and pine woods and Mediterranean meadows with wild thyme and fir trees and a karst belt full of interesting geological phenomena. Today, the entire region of Buje is the most famous wine-growing part of Istria with numerous wine cellars and farmhouses.

Our journey for the day will culminate in Porec, one of the oldest cities in Croatia. It is a pretty little place set on a small promontory and cut into an ordered mesh of streets that dates from its time as a Roman encampment. The ancient Decumanus still runs straight through the center and the Roman forum. The Romans conquered the region in the 2nd century BC and made Porec an important administrative center from which they were able to control land from the Lim Fjord to the Mirna River. Porec’s street plan was laid out by the Romans, who divided the town into rectangular parcels marked by the longitudinal Decumanus and the latitudinal Cardo.

Day 5 Sep 3 Porec –Rovinj – Pula - Pazin - Opatija (B) / Hotel Bristol 4* This morning we embark on a city tour of Porec. Visit the famous Basilica (UNESCO) and streets Cardo & Decumanus Maximus.

We then depart to Rovinj. Originally an island, Rovinj was first mentioned in the 7th century as Ruvignio, but it is believed that the town emerged at least several centuries earlier, possibly between the 3rd and 5th centuries. It was settled by Slavs in the 7th century and began to develop a strong fishing and maritime industry. We enjoy a walking tour of Rovinj. This beautiful fishing port is in fact mostly Italian speaking. Shops line the narrow streets of the old town selling everything from local Istrian wines and grappa to the region's tasty olive oil and truffles. Above the old town stands the largest gothic church in Istria, the Basilica of Santa Euphemia. This is a culmination of a number of earlier churches, remains of which are still evident. The first, the Oratory of St. Maur (who is said to have lived in a house on this site), is in scattered pieces on the north side of the basilica, a secret place of worship dating from a time when Christianity was still a clandestine religion.

Continue on the local road passing through small villages to enjoy local sites along the way to Pula, the biggest town in Istria. The town of Pula developed out of a hill-fort named Pola and is of Illyrian origin. The Romans restored and expanded the system of the Illyrian hill-forts, and the top of the hill, on which the capitol rose, together with several public institutions and temples, had its own fortification system. The first tourist excursions to Pula were recorded at the beginning of the 19th century. We will drive through the town center, dotted with Roman ruins. The most impressive of which are the spectacular Roman Amphitheater Arena (we may enter if interest and time-permits) and the 1st century Triumphal Arch of Sergius. Artists and architects from Michelangelo to Robert Adam studied and sketched this exceptionally well-preserved monument. Also noteworthy is the mid 1st century Hercules Gate. It is the town's oldest gate. Named after Hercules, the town patron, it's decorated with a relief showing Hercules' head and club. In the centre of town is the Roman Forum containing the Temple of Augustus.

Next, a short, beautiful drive onward to Pazin (40 km/50 min) with a short tour here to see highlights including the Pazin Fortress and Castle, the Cave, the Parish Church of St. Nicholas and Diocesan Seminary.

Returning to the coast, we head to Opatija, the oldest established and still one of the most popular Croatian resorts town, in the best tradition of seaside magnificence. A Rijeka businessman built the first villa here in 1844, and after a visit by the trendsetting wife of the Austrian Emperor, the town was promoted as a handy health resort for aristocratic Austrians.

This evening is independent. Enjoy a walk on the seaside promenade; soak up the ambiance while enjoying drinks and a meal at one of the many terrace cafes. Day 6 Sep 4 Opatija to Plitvice Lakes (UNESCO) (B, D) / Hotel Degenija 3* (best available in this area) Drive to Plitvice Lakes - about 3 hrs. The first part of our drive will follow the coast. We pass through Rijeka, one of the busiest towns, a harbor and shipyard on the Croatian coast, then we go around Kvarner Bay - the largest bay in Croatia, before leaving the coast to turn into the country side by going over the mountain range of Velebit. We reach the Plitvice Lakes, where sixteen lakes, each at different levels, join each other in a series of cascading waterfalls. Surrounded by dense woods, the region (on UNESCO's List of World Natural Heritage sites) is a natural phenomenon of rare and unique beauty. We will enjoy a walk through the National Park of Plitvice Lakes. Wooded paths follow the succession of lakes and waterfalls where streams burst out of rocks. The colors of the pools are reminiscent of Lake Louise in the Canadian Rockies. There is an opportunity to buy lunch in the park (pay directly). Our hotel, a bit rustic/best available, is the closest to the entrance of the Plitvice Lakes National Park. Day 7 Sep 5 Drive Plitvice - Zadar - Sibenik – Trogir-Split (B) - Hotel Slavija We start with a drive to Zadar (approx 3 hrs), the ancient capital of Dalmatia and a typical Venetian old town. This large town has a historic center crowded on to a tapered thumb of land, jutting north into the Adriatic. The town has a variety of architectures and styles, where lone Corinthian columns stand alongside Romanesque churches. Zadar was part of Italy until 1947, and, though fast diminishing, you will find the Italian influence still strong and Italian widely spoken, particularly amongst the older people. The city has much of the vibrancy of an Italian coastal town.

In Zadar, we visit the Archaeological Museum, which has a neatly displayed collection of Roman relics, pre- Christian, Roman and

medieval finds from nearby Nin, as well as fragments of sculpture from most of the local churches. We will also see the Roman Forum from the 2nd century BC, the 9th century pre-Romanesque church of St Donatus, as well as St Elias church.

Next is Šibenik (approx 1 hr drive) located in an area of several hundred inlets that are spread out to the open blue sea, forming many channels, bays of rare beauty. Especially lovely are the inlets posted in front to the open sea, with their picturesque rocky cliffs and deep abrasions. Šibenik and its beautiful surroundings occupy a unique place. In its district, the renowned beauties of the Dalmatian coast are further enriched by the most indented coastline with exuberant stony landscapes. The river Krka has forced its way through a dramatic canyon that, from its source to its end, possesses wonderful waterfalls. In the town itself, located on the shore stand its pride - the Cathedral of St. Jacob, which for its beauty made its way to UNESCO Heritage List. The building of the church started in 1402, though plans on its construction had already begun in 1298. The church is built in the Gothic style and a multitude of very famous Venetian and local craftsman worked on it.

Our last visit today will be to the medieval town of Trogir, a suburb of Split, (approx 30 min drive) which has changed little over the years, and is today one of the most beautiful towns on this coast. Life revolves around Narodni Trg, a creamy-white square flanked by the Cathedral, Communal Palace and Loggia. We will see the Venetian Cathedral of St Lovro, (UNESCO) built from the 13th to 15th centuries on the Place of Ivana Pavla, one of the finest architectural works in Croatia.

Continue to Split. Arrival will be approx 6 pm. Lots of choices for dinner here in old town and along the waterfront. Our lovely hotel is just inside one of the gates and right next to the Palace. It also has excellent cuisine. The shops stay open until 8 pm. Day 8 Sep 6 Split-Hvar- Korčula (B) / Hotel Fabris In the morning, we will load your luggage onto our vehicle to be transported to Korčula, as we enjoy a day of cruising the beautiful waters of the Adriatic. Beginning at 9 am, we’ll have a guided walking tour around the old part of Split, a very vibrant city. We will see its famous Theater house, visit the local market and walk around the brand-new sea front “Riva.” At the heart of all of this, hemmed in by sprawling estates and a modern harbor, lies Diocesan’ Palace, one of the most outstanding samples of classical architecture in the world. The Roman Emperor Diocletian spent his declining years in an enormous palace that he had built near his birthplace, Espalatos, in Dalmatia. With the passing centuries, the original architecture of the palace has been altered, but the people of the city, later called Spalato, and then Split, were able to use the structure of the palace, damaging it as little as possible, under Byzantine, Venetian and Austro-Hungarian rule. Thus, a harmonious city came into being within the Roman walls.

We will see the peri style of the palace, Diocletian's mausoleum, Jupiter's temple, the colonnades along the streets, early Croatian churches, Romanesque houses, the gates of Andrija Buvina and architectural works by Juraj Dalmatinac which all have remained in a good state.

Boat to Hvar We’ll depart on the 11:30 am high-speed catamaran for a one hour ride to the Island of Hvar. Even by Dalmatian standards Hvar’s history seems unusually ‘dense’. Originally a Greek colony, the island has been the temporary property of different rulers like Hungary, Genoa, Bosnia and Dubrovnik, and like the rest of Dalmatia, it only achieved a period of relative peace and stability under the Venetians. Its harbor is now alive, with a constant hum of activity, with a creamy-brown piazza in the middle, flanked by the Venetian Arsenal, and culminating in the skeletal campanile of Hvar’s Cathedral.

Upon arrival, we will have a walking tour of the town of Hvar. We will first go through the narrow streets to the 15th Century Franciscan Monastery followed by a visit to the Renaissance Cloister. The old Rectory houses today a collection of lace, manuscripts, and books. The church also contains remarkable collection of paintings. We visit St Stephen’s Cathedral and the Arsenal, a thick-walled fortress overlooking the harbor, where Europe’s oldest community theater opened in 1612. The rest of the afternoon independent to stroll about and enjoy lunch on your own at one of the many restaurants facing the harbor or discover the ones along the narrow alley lanes up the hill. Old town of Hvar is very compact. At 5:10 pm, we board the catamaran for a one hour, 20 minute ride to the island of Korčula. We arrive at 630 pm. This evening is independent. Enjoy dinner at your hotel on the sea or walk into old town.

Day 9 Sep 7 Korčula –Dubrovnik (B) / Hotel Zagreb 4* In the morning, a pleasant one hour tour of Korčula old town. Like all the old towns you have visited thus far, the pedestrian-only area has stone paths and narrow winding streets; old churches and pleasant main squares. In my opinion, as charming as these old towns are, after a few, they do seem to look alike. To give you a broader experience of the island of Korčula, we shall visit one and maybe two different towns on the island (time permitting). After the tour of old town we will go to Zrnovo (five minute drive), a small village of old Cypresses, terraced vineyards, stone houses. Next we will go to Pupnat, the oldest settlement on the island, dating to Illyrian times. It has well preserved village architecture. We culminate our time on Korčula with a visit to Lombarda, a little fishing village. There is a nice café on the waterfront for a quick lunch or coffee and snacks (pay on your own). We will drive 10 minutes to Dominče and take the 2:10 pm ferry for a 20 minute ride to Orebić, on the Pelješac Peninsula. We will drive through the charming peninsula, stopping for wine tasting at one or maybe two wineries (depending on our time and group energy). We arrive at the old town of Ston, a quick look and onward to the oyster farm for demo and tasting. A 1.5 hour drive brings

us to Dubrovnik, arriving approx 630-700 pm. Transfer to hotel for check-in. Hotel Zagreb is a comfortable historic residence surrounded by a magnificent garden. It began operating as a hotel in 1932 and is located in the heart of the pedestrian parkway in Lapad area. The hotel is a 7-8 minute drive to historic old town and a five minute walk to a sandy/pebble beach. The excellent restaurant overlooks the garden and offers a diverse menu. The kitchen staff are happy to cater to individuals’ specific dietary preferences. Day 10 Sep 8 Dubrovnik (B) / Hotel Zagreb This morning you will meet your guide at 9am and drive about ten minutes from your hotel to the historic old town for an approximately two hour walking tour. The tour includes visiting the Franciscan Monastery, housing one of the world's oldest pharmacies, the old harbor, St Laurence Fortress, the Sponza and Rector's Palaces and other points of interest in this best preserved European walled city. The rest of the day is independent. Lunch and dinner on your own. There are so many wonderful restaurant options from simple pizza and pasta dishes, to Croatian fresh seafood meals at outdoor cafes as well as formal white cloth elegant establishments. Each has its own old world charm and ambiance. You can return to hotel whenever you wish. There is a cable car ride to the top for a great view (optional/extra cost).

PART TWO: Balkans Explorer

Mostar, Bosnia

Bosnia-Herzegovina

Day 11 Sep 9 Dubrovnik-Sarajevo (B) / Hotel Astra Old Town 4*

Depart at 9 am for our drive to Sarajevo (4 hrs), capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Our plan is to arrive at the Sarajevo Hotel by at least 2:30 pm. The Balkans Explorer group members will be arriving this day between 2- 3 pm. You will all be traveling together for the rest of our tour.

After check in, a short bit of free time and lunch on your own.

At 5 pm the group will meet the guide in the hotel lobby and walk ½ block into the old Turkish quarters for a brief guided walking tour of the pedestrian Bašcaršija historic zone. We will have a local guide here as required by law.

This charming town will take you instantly back to Ottoman times. For more then 400 years mosques, orthodox churches, roman-catholic churches and synagogues have stood together. We will visit the oldest Ottoman mosque and the main Catholic and main Orthodox churches. We will also see the place where Austro-Hungarian prince Franc Josef was assassinated (believed to be the cause of WWI). We will stroll through the old quarters and the authentic Turkish “carsija.”

Afterwards, we go to the 16th century Ottoman Latin Bridge, which crosses the shallow Miljacka River to connect the old town with the Skenderija neighborhood. It is the city's oldest. But as 16th-century bridges go, the structure itself isn't what stands out. On one end of this bridge in 1914, the heir to Hapsburg throne was assassinated by an 18-year-old Serbian, sparking World War I and leading to the extinction of two great empires, the Austro-Hungarian and the Ottoman. A modest museum at the northern end of the bridge tells the story ofhow Gavrip Princip happened to see Archduke Franz Ferdinand's motorcade after other would-be assassins failed to kill him.

We culminate the tour with a visit to the Zuta Tabija, or the Yellow Fortress. It looms above the city from Jekovac Cliff on the eastern end of the old town, offering a fantastic view and a spectacular place to see the sunset. Afterwards, you are free to browse andhavedinnerinOldTown. The shops are open until at least 8 pm. Yourguidewilldirectyou to one of therecommended traditional casual restaurants for dinner or you may choose to explore and find one on your own (pay direct). There are so many options for meals here. You can try traditional Bosnian food in many “cevapdzinica” all around old bazaar and typical local deserts in its oriental sweets shops and cafes. Day 12 Sep 10 Sarajevo (B) - Hotel Astra Old Town This morning we start with a visit to the “Survival in Sarajevo” holocaust exhibit, which opened in May, 2014. There are huge, powerful black and white photos and 2 poignant films that include war footage and interviews past & present with survivors. Afterwards we go to the War Tunnel (the tunnel of hope) - the tunnel that connected the Sarajevo Airport with the suburb of the town beneath the occupied territory. During the Siege of Sarajevo during Bosnian War between 1992 and 1995, the Sarajevo Tunnel was constructed by the besieged citizens of Sarajevo in order to link the city of Sarajevo, which was entirely cut-off by Serbian forces, with the Bosnian-held territory on the other end of the supposedly neutral area at the Sarajevo Airport controlled by the United Nations. The tunnel linked the Sarajevo neighborhoods of Dobrinja and Butmir. Beginning in January 1993, the Sarajevo Tunnel was dug by Bosnian volunteers working in 8-hour shifts. The Sarajevo tunnel was completed in mid-1993, which allowed food and humanitarian aid to come into the city, and people to get out. The tunnel was one of the major ways of bypassing the international arms embargo and providing the city defenders with weaponry. The tunnel was 1.5 metres (4.9 ft) in height and about 1m in width, and ran for approximately 960 metres (3,150 ft) in length. During the time it was used, it is estimated that 20 million tons of food entered the city, and 1 million people passed in and out of it. The tunnel was most famously used to transport the former Bosnian president Alija Izetbegović in his wheelchair that was run on the railway of the tunnel. The 20 metres (66 ft) of tunnel that are left today now form part of a museum, open daily until 4 pm.

Photo: the house in which the tunnel's northern entrance was hidden is now a museum. The tunnel was ingeniously dug in a wide L-shape in order to prevent the Serb forces from caving it in with shells, since the tunnel exit points could not remain a secret for too long. From 1993 to 1995 the tunnel further developed by putting in a mineshaft-like railway, drainage pumps and digging out crossing points where people coming from two different sides could pass by each other as the tunnel was not wide enough to do that everywhere. It is less known that the Bosnian forces began working on a second, bigger tunnel towards the end of the war, but it was never completed or utilized as the war ended in December of 1995. Afterwards, a stop at the nearby 16th century Roman Bridge, built using actual Roman stones. From here we enjoy time at Vrelo Bosne, a green park at the source of the River Bosne, 12 km southwest of the city. The approach to the park down a long alley of tall trees is spectacular. Fancy houses from the Austro-Hungarian period line the alley, offering a peek into the luxuries of the past. The park itself is a network of paths and bridges over bubbling streams and waterfalls and still pools reflecting the leafy surroundings. It's filled with shade and perfect for a warm summer's day. The park has outdoor cafés, picnic sites and horse and carriage rides. There are a few good restaurants with nice views near the lakes for lunch (pay direct). Enjoy some leisure time here. This afternoon we visit the museums in Old Town: National Museum, History Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Afterwards, we take a 14 minute cable car ride from Old TowntothetopofTrebevic Mountain,enjoying amazingviews. Experience awonderful walk of 900meters through the forest endinginfrontoftheHotelPinoNature.Have acoffeebreakif you like (pay direct) andgobacktothecablecar. Day 13 Sep 11 Sarajevo - Mostar (B) – Villa Fortuna

Morning a two hour drive through the canyon of River Neretva to Mostar. Picturesque and charming Mostar seems straight out of a fairytale storybook. The historic town, spanning a deep valley of the Neretva River, developed in the 15th and 16th century as an Ottoman frontier town and during the Austro-Hungarian period in the 19th and 20th centuries. Mostar has long been known for its old Turkish houses and Old Bridge, Stari Most, after which it is named. The pedestrian only bridge is in the heart of town and links the villages on each side of the river. Mostar means bridge-keeper as it was guarded at the time. The old Turkish bridge once was the only means uniting the city over the emerald waters of the Neretva River. The original bridge was wooden, built at the beginning of the 15th century, and it was a very important link between the two parts of Herzegovina, not only strategically but also in respect of trade linking the sea to the interior. This soon brought the urgent need to replace the old unsafe wooden chain bridge with a new one to meet the growing requirements. The construction began in 1557 and continued for nine years. The bridge is the masterpiece of Hajrudin, a pupil of the he renowned architect, Sinan. The year of the completion was 1566. Tall and white, with its graceful arch, it appears to be cut from the single huge stone slab. It is 13.5 feet wide and 60ft high and its stone arch is slightly less then 90ft long. In the 1990 conflict, however, most of the historic town and the Old Bridge were destroyed. The Old Bridge was recently rebuilt and many of the edifices in the Old Town have been restored or rebuilt with the contribution of an international scientific committee established by UNESCO. The Old Bridge area, with its pre-Ottoman, eastern Ottoman, Mediterranean and western European architectural features is an out- standing example of a multicultural urban settlement. The reconstructed Old Bridge and Old City of Mostar is a symbol of reconciliation, international cooperation and of the coexistence of diverse cultural, ethnic and religious communities.

A walking tour of Mostar includes a visit to the ancient city dating to the 16th/17th centuries, inside a traditional house of this period and visit to the recently rebuilt Mostar Bridge, the emblem of the city. We will have amble time to wander leisurely and enjoy the lively atmosphere of the old bazaar.

Montenegro

Budva, Montenegro

Day 14 Sep 12 Mostar- Medzugorje - Počitelj-Kotor (B) / Hotel Astoria (inside the city walls)

This morning we drive about 45 minutes to visit Medzugorje located in the Herzegovina region of Bosnia and Hergovina (former Yugoslavia). Through the years there have been claims that the Virgin Mary has appeared here with messages to believers. You will see the “Queen of Peace” statue in front of St. James Church, where an apparition of Virgin Mary is said to have appeared in 1981. Afterwards, we stop at the picturesque village of Počitelj, a UNESCO heritage site, perched on a hillside above the river, 30 km south of Mostar. It is supposed that the fortified town and its attendant settlements were built by Bosnia’s King Stjepan Tvrtko in 1383. The walled town evolved over the period from the sixteenth to the eighteenth centuries and the surviving stone-built parts can be seen in two stages of evolution: medieval, and Ottoman. You will walk on narrow cobbled streets and climb the stone stairs to visit the Fort, 16th century mosque of Sisman Ibrahim-Pasha, Madrassa (Muslim religious high school) with its original copper domes, the hamam (Turkish baths), the striking Sahat-Kula (clock tower). All the sites within the village are connected by stairs that wind in all directions thru a maze of medieval houses with distinctive round chimneys atop roofs clad with irregular shaped stone slabs, and gardens where walnuts, figs, kiwi and pomegranates grow in abundance. Besides its stunning oriental architecture and Ottoman feel, since 1964 Počitelj has hosted the International Art Colony. The Association of Visual Arts of Bosnia and Herzegovina, which is the owner and founder of the Art Colony, organizes working colonies throughout the year. The artists are housed in a structure called the Gavrakanpetanović House, a complex of one large and two smaller buildings built during the 16th and 17th centuries, destroyed in 1993 and restored in 2003. The town is an open-air

museum and much cherished by artists as an inspiration for their work.

You may enjoy a brief stop after the walking tour for coffee/refreshments at the café (pay directly) if you like. We continue now driving along the Adriatic Coast crossing into Montenegro and the town of Kotor, enjoying a marvelous drive around beautiful Boka Kotorska Bay, passing many old fishing villages, churches, monasteries, marinas and beaches. The total driving time is approx 2.5 hrs, but again we enjoy a leisurely day of touring sites and basking in the atmosphere. We will stop in the town of Perast for a short boat ride on the Bay of Kotor to the tiny island with “The Church of Our Lady of the Rocks.” We will enjoy a brief tour of the stunning church, dedicated to mariners. Upon arrival in Kotor, hotel check in and lunch on your own. Kotor old town is once again a pedestrian only zone and there are many charming terrace cafes throughout the old town.

Afternoon a walking tour of Kotor UNESCO site (about 2 hr). This museum town was inhabited even at the times of the Illyrians and Romans. However, our walk through the city will take us back to medieval times, as most of the monuments we can observe now are from the 14th to 18th centuries. In the Middle Ages, this natural harbor was an important artistic and commercial center with its own famous schools of masonry and iconography. Strong walls surround the city, a renaissance tower stands on the main square, and there are numerous churches and lovely houses still remaining. We will see the Cathedral of St. Tryphon, St. Luka Church, St. Mihail Church, and many more. A large number of the monuments (including four Romanesque churches and the town walls) were seriously damaged by the 1979 earthquake. The town has been restored largely with UNESCO’s help.

Day 15 Sep 13 Kotor- Njegusi - Cetinje (the old capital)-Budva (B) / Hotel Budva We drive approx 2 hrs to the old Njegusi village in the mountains, birthplace of Njegoš, ruler of the country in the second half of the 19th century. He was also the head of the Orthodox Church and a leading poet and writer whose achievements are still taught in the schools of Sebia and Montenegro. This drive is exceptional!!!! Just up into the mountains directly from the coast with the full view of the whole Boka Bay from the top. A brief stop to soak up the ambiance and enjoy a prosciutto and cheese tasting snack at one of the local restaurants.

Continue drive (approx 1 hr) to Cetinje, once the capital of Montenegro, passing by Mount of Lovcen, where we can spot the impressive Mausoleum of Peter II Petrovi - Njegoš, decorated with a statue done by the famous Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovi. This is an absolute pride of the people of Montenegro. The town was founded in 1482, when Ivan Crnojevi, the last ruler of the medieval country of Zeta, built here a palace for himself as well as a church. Cetinje stayed the heart and soul of Montenegro all the way up to WW1. In Cetinje we will visit the royal palace of King Nikola II, the last King of Montenegro. The palace contains both a beautiful small museum as well as the Monastery of St. Petar.

Afterwards we return to the coast driving to Budva - bit more then 1 h. Budva is one of the oldest inhabited places in the area, known since Illyrian times. The town of Budva we see now is medieval and is definitely the most attractive place on the Riviera. Budva has a fortified old part of the town with the typical architecture of narrow streets and stone buildings placed around the main cathedral. This area is now used as a gathering place, containing many shops and taverns. Budva also has several attractive beaches including the main town beach at the end of the marina promenade.

Budva is the perfect culmination of our tour of the most gorgeous historic towns of the stunning Adriatic coastline. Though those of you continuing will see several more incredible towns along the Adriatic in Albania.

We will arrive approx 3 pm. Check in to the hotel at the entrance to old town. We will have a brief walk in old town (20-30 min). Budva old town is small and compact, easy to get oriented Rest of day independent. You can also enjoy a leisurely walk along the Marina, passing a variety of patio restaurants, ending at the town beach. There are many restaurants in the old town as well as along the marina promenade. This is a very small town and fun to explore independently.

Albania

Berat, Albania

Day 16 Sep 14 Budva - Shkodra- Kruja - Tirana (B, L, D) – Hotel Opera We depart at 8 am driving along the Adriatic Coast crossing the border into Albania, (approx 2 hr drive to border crossing).

Our Albania driver/guide will meet us at the Montenegro border (Murriqan/Sukobin) for a twenty minute drive to the Albanian shores of Shkodra Lake, the largest lake in the Balkans. We will have a brief stop for refreshments at one of the casual lakeside restaurants.

Shkodra has been the most important town of northern Albania for over 2,000 years and the Illyrian capital in the 3rd century BC. Once part of the Venetian empire, Italian influence is evident everywhere in Shkodra.

After our refreshments, we visit Rozafa Castle, from where a spectacular panoramic view can be admired all around. It is a short uphill walk; the car cannot drive up to the entrance. This is a place where you can truly feel the supremacy the Illyrians would have felt against enemies standing in front of such an imposing fortress. Walking inside the complex is all on cobblestone. Shoes should have not only good support but also good traction as the cobblestones are slippery.

From here it’s a 45 minute drive to Kruja, a small town perched high on the face of a hill. Kruja was the center of the Albanian resistance against the Ottoman Turks under the leadership of Albania’s national hero Scanderbeg. We will enjoy lunch at a traditional restaurant near the fortress/castle and bazaar. Afterwards, visit the fortress of Kruja, the Scanderbeg Museum, Ethnographic Museum and browse the old bazaar full of local handicrafts. This is the best traditional bazaar on our tour.

Continue drive to Tirana (45 minutes). We will arrive at approx 6 pm. Check-in to hotel. Dinner (7 pm) at a traditional restaurant. The Albania group members arrive today.

Day 17 Jun 2/Sep 15 Tirana – (B, L) – Hotel Opera (A stop at a currency exchange office will occur at a convenient point this morning.) We pass by Skanderbeg Square and visit the National Historic Museum for a quick introduction of the history of Albania. After the visit, we walk through the Et’hem Bey Mosque, visiting the mosque and the Clock Tower. Next, we go to the National Art Museum, a true gem even for people not normally so interested in art. Halls 3-5 showcase a brilliant collection of socialist realism art offering insight into the communist era mindset. Much of this art is quite humorous. There are also exhibits (Halls 1-2) of the different periods of Albania’s history including works that predate socialist realism. We continue to the area of Tirana called Blloku (“The Block”), a vibrant upmarket neighborhood filled with cafes, galleries, trendy shops and nightclubs. The Block is the location of former Communist dictator Enver Hoxha’s villa. During the time of his rule, the area was reserved for government officials and the public was not permitted to enter. We’ll have lunch here at Restaurant Vila Ferdinand and then visit the Bunk’Art Bunker, a concrete structure of 2,680 square meters, built during the communist dictatorship of Enver Hoxha. It was designed to accommodate the nomenclature in case of a nuclear attack. Now it is an exhibition gallery of historic and modern art. Next is a visit to the Pyramid (mausoleum of the late communist leader Enver Hoxha, designed by his daughter). Additionally, you will see the Enver Hoxha’s house. We’ll have a break at a coffee bar from the communist period, where they prepare traditional liquors of that time.

Enjoy some free time strolling around. Please note: The Block has narrow and uneven sidewalks. There are spaces for trees to grow which have not been planted. Driveways, steps and ramps often block pedestrian paths. People with limited mobility and balance may have difficulty getting around. Day 18 Jun 3/Sep 16 Tirana - Durres- Berat (Approx drive time 2.5 hours.) (B, L) - Hotel Deserat or Osumi We depart at 9 am for a one hour drive to Durres where we visit the Amphitheater and the excellent Archeological Museum. Continue drive, 1-1.5 hrs to Berat, a UNESCO site. We go first to the wonderful Citadel (a walled fortress complex), where people continue to live. Lunch at a traditional restaurant inside the Citadel. Afterwards, a walk around the large citadel complex visiting the Onufri Museum (an old Orthodox church which displays many of the iconic paintings by Onufri and his followers) and several churches and mosques. Enjoy spectacular views and observe everyday life as we wander about. From here we go to the old town for a quick look at the traditional houses. Those of you still having energy for another walk, our guide will give a brief one around town. Transfer to our hotel. Dinner on your own (pay directly).

Day 19 Jun 4/Sep 17 Berat-Apollonia-Vlora-Saranda (Approx total drive time 5.5 hours) (B, L) / Hotel Brilant Morning departure from Berat to the ancient city of Apollonia (1.5 hr drive), founded in 558 BC by settlers from Corfu and Corinth. It is a little excavated archaeological site with great potential. This was a very important learning center at the height of the Roman empire, with Octavian himself having finished his studies here. We will tour the library of this Roman site and view the beautiful Odeon, along with a visit to the Old Monastery nearby which serves as an Archaeological Museum.

We will stop for lunch at a traditional restaurant after the tour of Apollonia.

Proceed to Vlora (1 hr drive), where important events in the struggles for Albanian freedom and independence have taken place.

We shall have a brief stop here for refreshments (pay directly) before continuing on a pleasant drive along the Albanian Riviera passing quaint small coastal villages en-route to Saranda.

We will arrive at approximately 5-6 pm. Dinner on your own tonight. The promenade starts just outside our hotel. It is a pleasant walk passing terraced cafes and shops along the beach front.

Day 20 Jun 5/Sep 18 Saranda-Butrint-Saranda (B, D) / Hotel Brilant This morning visit the UNESCO World Heritage site of Butrint. It is a 30-minute drive one way. The road is now completely paved. This site is extraordinary!

Butrint is Albania’s most important archaeological site and one of the most important sites in the Mediterranean. Evidence here provides proof of continuous inhabitation since prehistoric times, forming layers upon layers of civilizations.

We return to Saranda on the same road (30 min).

This afternoon, a short walking tour. In the town center, the ancient ruins are thought to be one of the earliest Jewish Synagogues in Albania, approximately dating to the 4th century AD. You will have some independent time to browse if you wish.

Dinner will be at the fabulous Lekursi Castle, on a hill above town, where the Island of Corfu and the Bay of Saranda can be admired. The restaurant ambiance is warm and sophisticated, the views stunning and the menu varied and exceptional.

Day 21 Jun 6/Sep 19 Saranda- Gjirokastra (Approx drive time 2 hours) (B, D) / Hotel Argjiro After breakfast we depart to Gjirokastra, We may stop for refreshments at the Blue Fish-Eye Lagoon, an underwater spring and lovely spot. It is a few minutes drive off the main road. Gjirokastra, the birthplace of the former iron-fisted dictator of Albania, Enver Hoxha, is now a museum city and UNESCO heritage site. We visit the pre-Ottoman citadel that houses a weapons exhibit. Afterwards, free to stroll around town, where sights include a museum and a former political prison. Many of the buildings retain their original wood and stonework.

This evening we are invited to dinner at a family farm in Dhoksat Village (about 15 min drive). Dinner approx. 7 pm; return to hotel by 8:30 pm.

Day 22 Jun 7/Sep 20 Gjirokastra-Korca (Approx Drive time 5.5-6 hours) (B, D) / Hani Pazarit Boutique Hotel 4* After breakfast, we drive through breathtaking scenery in the mountainous areas of Leskovik and Kolonja, stopping in Permet for an early lunch (pay direct). On arrival in Korca, check into hotel. Some free time to refresh. At approx 530 pm we will visit the Museum of Medieval Arts. Afterwards, dinner at a traditional restaurant.

Republic of North Macedonia

Day 23 Jun 8/Sep 21 Korca-Voskopoja - Pogradec & Tushemisht - Ohrid (B, L) hotel Royal View or SU Hotel (Approxdrivetime3hours,notcountingstops)Wedepartat9amandstartthedaywitha30minutedrivetoVoskopoja,oneofthemostimportanttownsintheEuropeanpartoftheOttomanempireduringthebeginningofthe18thcentury.TestamenttothisarethefirstprintinghouseintheBalkansin1720,theAcademiaofVoskopojafoundedin1744,thefamousBasilicas,andthepaintedhousewallsbywell-knownAlbanianpaintersincludingDavidSelenicaandtheZeografibrothers.Thisisaquietsmalltownandwehaveabriefwalkvisitingafewmonumentsandchurcheswithfrescoesthathavebeenrestored.Oneofthebestchurchesisa5minutedriveabovethetownandthenashortuphillwalktoreachit.Forthosewhodonotcaretowalkuphill,thereisanoutdoorcaféwhereyoucanwaitandenjoyrefreshments,whiletherestofthegroupcontinuesup.Afterwards,a45minutedrivebringsustoPogradeconthesouthernshoresoflakeOhrid.WewillstopforlunchatthelovelyRestaurantRosaeTymosur-VillaBorana.Theirspecilaityisduck.Afterwards,haveabriefwalkonthepromenade.

Afterlunch,it’satwenty-minutedrivetotheborderwithMacedonia.WepassthruthepicturesquevillageofTushemishtandthenDrilon,aplaceofnaturalbeautywhichtheAlbaniandictatorusedforrelaxationandfishing.

Five minutes after crossing into Macedonia, we arrive at Sveti Naum and visit the old monastery. The monastery complex St. Naum (dated from 9th century), is situated on a rock right above the lake, a monument of and devoted to the miracle worker St Nahum.

Afterwards, continue drive, 30 minutes, to the town of Ohrid, enjoying panoramic views of Lake Ohrid, Galicica National Park, fishing villages stretching along the lake`s coast: Pestani, Trpejca, Lubanista seeing their typical rural architecture. Checkintoourhotelfacingthelake.Suggestdinneratourhotelrestaurantorwalkalongthepromenadetoselectfromoneofthemanyoptions(paydirect).

St Jovan Church, Ohrid, Macedonia

Day 24 Jun 9/Sep 22 Ohrid (B, L) hotel Royal View or Park Lake Side

At 695m above sea level, the town of Ohrid is one of the oldest human settlements in Europe, built mainly between the 7th and 19th centuries. The town was known in prehistoric and classical times under the name of Lychnidos - the City of Lights. Slavs gave it the name of Arida in 10th century, and it became a major center of culture and art for this area. It has the oldest Slav monastery (St Pantelejmon) and more than 800 Byzantine-style icons dating from the 11th to the end of the 14th century. After those of the Tretiakov Gallery in Moscow, this is considered to be the most important collection of icons in the world. This is the cradle of Slavic written language and literature. The Cyrillic Alphabet was created here by brothers Cyril and Methodius and then spread all over the Slavic world.

After breakfast, we begin our tour around the old town-museum of Ohrid, (UNESCO site) also known as “City of 365 Churches.” We will stroll along the old narrow streets where, at every 100 meters, you will come across significant historical sights. Out of endless number of monuments and churches, we will visit the most important ones. - The museum complex in the houses of Robev family, Uranija and Hristo Uzunov is representative of the town architecture dating from 19th century. House of Robev is a work of art dating from 1863 and houses a significant collection of exhibits from the Ohrid area and prehistory, the antique period and the Middle Ages.

- St. Sophia, the cathedral church of the Ohrid Episcopate, with its outstanding architectural construction and invaluable frescoes dating from the 11th and 14th centuries. It was the seat of the Archbishop. - The Antique Theatre - the oldest antique theatre in Macedonia, built for - among other things - gladiatorial combats, has been reconstructed to house theatrical performances and concerts. - Icon Gallery - painted in the period from 11th until 19th century; one of the most valuable museums of icons in the world.

- Sv. Bogorodica Perivleptos (St. Mary), the Church of the Holy Mother of God Perivleptos dating from 1295, with its remarkable architecture and frescoes is one of the best known monuments of its kind not only in Macedonia, but also worldwide. - St. Panteleimon Church –an early Christian complex and the spiritual and cultural source of Lychnidos (later known as Ohrid), preserved, restored and rebuilt as St. Panteleimon Church with exposed architectural remains- parts of the original monastic complex from the period of St. Clement, as well as before and after him. In 9th century, St. Clement founded the first Slavonic University, the cradle of Slavonic literacy, culture and its clergy. Dominating the Old Town, this classic Orthodox Byzantine church, popularly called St. Clement, demonstrates the link between Byzantine and Italian Renaissance art. Located just below King Samuel’s Fortress in an area called Plaosnik. - Samuel’s Fortress, the millennium and indestructible foundation of Lychnidos and Ohrid, built in 10th century. It was the first capital of the first Bulgarian Empire. According to recent excavations by Macedonian archaeologists, this fortress was built on the site of an earlier fortification dated to the 4th century BC, probably by King Philip II of Macedon. - The church of St. Jovan Kaneo from 13th century. Located just above a small fishing settlement on a cliff rising up from Ohrid Lake, stands one of the most magnificent churches in all of Macedonia. Built in honor of St. John the Theologian, St. Kaneo was consecrated at the end of the 13th century. Its exterior is decorated with ceramic sculptures and stone carvings. Though the fresco painters are unknown, the fragments that have been preserved are of exceptional quality. The Communion of the Apostles and the portraits of St. Clement, St. Erasmus and Constantine Kavasilas especially stand out. An extraordinarily unique construction, built from a combination of Byzantine and Armenian architectural styles, St. Kaneo is indeed one of the most beautiful churches in Macedonia and in the whole Balkan region. We view it from the outside only. This is the most impressive part. From here we take a water taxi return to the main city square. There will be a lunch break some place during the walk. This afternoon is independent to explore the town on your own. You may like to stroll through the Ohrid Bazaar, visiting the old crafts workshops for pearl making; visit the National Museum and/or the Ethnological Museum, a part of the National Museum under restoration/partially open (operating hours permitting, entrance fees pay direct). Day 25 Jun 10/Sep 23 St. Jovan Bigorski - Skopje (B, L) (approx drive time 3.5 hrs) – Hotel Solun Morning departure traveling via Mavrovo with opportunity of simultaneous viewing of Ilinka and Bistra Mountains and a panoramic view of the Mavrovo National Park. After a 1.5 hr drive, we arrive at the monastery complex of St. Jovan Bigorski, deeply embedded in the rocks, surrounded by the mountain Bistra, lying above sea level of 740 meters. Sv. Jovan Bigorski (St. John Bigorski) Monastery is dedicated to Sv. Jovan Krstitel (Saint John the Baptist). It is located on the road between Gostivar and Debar, in the beautiful valley of the Radika River among the villages of Rostushe, Velebrdo, Bitushe and Trebishta. The monastery complex is comprised of the monastery church, the ossuary located next to the church, the seymen defense tower, the monastery mansions complex and a newly-built guest mansion. According to the monastery files, the Monarch Jovan began building it in the year of 1020. The monastery was attacked and damaged by the Turks in the 16th century so that only a small part of the church remained. The rebuilding of the monastery started in year of 1743 by the Jermonarch Llarion who was the first Igumen (head of monastery, similar to abbot) at the Bigorski Monastery. The monastery is known for its iconostasis, the most beautiful one in Macedonia. The extraordinary tiny woodcarving was created by Petre Filipov - Garkata from the village of Gari, his brother Marko, Makrarij Frckovski from the village of Galicnik and Avram Dicov with his sons Vasil and Filip from the village Osoj, in the period from 1829 to 1835. The iconostasis is divided into six horizontal belts. The first one's base is comprised of rectangular fields on which there are ornaments of flora and fauna. The second belt, where throne (big and non-movable) icons are placed, finishes with a figure of an eagle with spread wings. The third belt is divided into three smaller horizontal compartments where symmetrically distributed angels, grapes and vineyard sprouts are presented. There are two rows of icons - festive (icons that are being taken out for festivities) and icons with presentation of angels above them. In the central part there is the large cross with the Crucifixion of Christ. From both sides of the cross there are figures of a dragon from whose mouth the icons of St. Jovan and Holy Mother of God are lifted. The presentation of the dancer Salome is particularly interesting; she is dressed in a traditional Miyak costume. The Icon of Sv. Jovan Bigorski, believed to have a mysterious power, was found floating over Radika River by the monarch Jovan in the year of 1020, on the same place where the monastery was later built. In the XVIth century. Under the Turkish ruler Selim II, Turks burned the monastery and the Icon mysteriously disappeared. It returned later, unharmed, to the same place. The Icon of Sv. Jovan Bigorski was not protected for 35 years and finally in the year of 1885 was framed in silver. Jovan Krstitel (John the Baptist) is represented in the Icon as a three- handed saint. It is believed that the third hand is blessed and helps families who can't have children. Twenty-one monks still reside here today. Lunch at the café of Sv. Jovan Bigorski or en-route to Skopje (depending on the time). Continueapprox.2.5hoursdriveonnarrowwindingroadstoSkopje.Arrival in Skopje around 4 pm. Our hotel is just inside one of the entrances to the town. Dinner on your

own. There are again many choices within the old town. Enjoy strolling around and exploring!

Day 26 Jun 11/Sep 24 Skopje (B) - Hotel Solun Skopje is not only the capital but also the largest city in the Republic of Macedonia. It is located in a valley, on both sides of River Vardar and traces back to over 2000 years of history when it was known as Skupi. This morning, a walking tour of Skopje. The old part of the town is called "Charshi." Here the Stone Bridge - a symbol of Skopje built by Turks in 15th century, is located. The Church St. Spas, (dating from 1348 and admired for its marvelous iconostas from 17th century), the Museum of Macedonia, the Monastery St. Panteleimon from 1516, the Old Bazaar, Fortress Kale with walls dating back from the 6th century (currently closed indefinitely), Mustapha Pasha Mosque (Ottoman architecture erected in 1492 with the earliest wall paintings), Daut Pasa Bath (Islamic civil architecture from the 15th century). Lunch on your own (pay direct). This afternoon we drive 50 km/approx. 45 minutes Tetovo and visit the amazing painted mosque (officially called Šarena Mosque) as well as Arabato Baba Teke Dervish House.

Tetovo Mosque is so unique with its’ ornate wall paintings, both inside and out. Created using a ‘secco’ technique, where pigments are combined with an organic binder – in this case eggs – and applied directly to dry plaster. It’s said that more than 30,000 eggs were used for the paint and glaze. Inside, the mosque is covered from dome to carpet with bright patterns. Floral, geometric and arabesque characters feature in the place of the usual Islamic motifs, and the dominant colors are earthy golds and reds. Curved lines, fleur-de-lis-like shapes, bouquets and grapevines are almost Austro-Hungarian in appearance.

Return to Skopje. This evening enjoy walking about the old town, browsing/shopping and soak up the ambiance relaxing at one of the outdoor cafes. Dinner on your own (pay direct).

Kosovo Day 27 Jun 12/Sep 25 Skopje - Prizren- Monastery Visoki Decani-Pec (Peja) (B, D) - Hotel Dukagjini, 4* Morning we drive north crossing the border to Prizren (2 hours). We will meet our Kosovo guide at the border crossing and shall stop for quick refreshments before continuing about 30 minutes into the town. Prizren was established at a convenient locality as an important trading town, through which passed old roads towards the Adriatic coast and the interior of the Balkan peninsula. Graves and artifacts of Illyrian Dardans were found in Prizren's vincity, which shows that the area of Prizren has been inhabited since ancient times. It was for a while the center of the Serbian Empire. During the Byzantine rule, Prizren was known as Prizdrian. The Ottomans occupied Prizren on June 21, 1455, and that is when the oriental urban development of Prizren began. From all the cities of Kosovo, Prizren has best preserved the architectural physiognomy of the past. The Bajrakli Gazi Mehmet Pasha's mosque is the oldest monument of Islamic art in Prizren. The inscription above the entrance states it was built in 1561. This mosque has a square base and numerous windows, while the main veneration niche (mihrab) and the pulpit (mimber) are made of marble. A hexagonal mausoleum (medresa) has been built in the courtyard of the Mosque which Mehmet Pasha earmarked as his grave. Mehmet Pasha also built a Turkish Bath from cut stone and large bricks in harmonious proportions. One of the oldest standing structures in Prizren is the Sh'nm'ria Levishka Church (aka Lady of Ljevis Church), a UNESCO Heritage Site. Built originally as a Roman Catholic Church and one of the primary churches of the Catholics of the region, Levishka was later converted to an Eastern Orthodox Church. You will see this church from the outside as it is closed most of the time. In the center of the town, on the bank of river Bistrica, stands the house in which in 1878, the League of Prizren was organized. It was an assembly of representatives of all Albanian inhabited regions that demanded autonomy from the Ottoman Empire. This event was the starting point of the Albanian liberation movement that eventually led to the declaration of the independence of Albania in 1912. The house archives many of the documents relating to the League of Prizren. Continue to Pec/Peja (2 hrs). Lunch en-route and then visit Monastery Visoki Decani, UNESCO listed in 2006 - the church devoted to Christ the Pantocrator at Decani Monastery and burial church of Serbian King Stefan Uros Nemanja. Building started here in 1327 and lasted 8 years and knowledgeable eyes will note the beautiful mason and fresco works. King Stefan Decanski initiated its building, while his son, the famous Emperor Stefan Dušan completed the work of his father in the 13th century. Decani church boasts the richest and best-preserved sculpture in the Romanesque-Gothic style, a lavish portal and decorative windows. The building bears witness to the regal origins of the Nemanji’s and the rulers’ families of the founders. This monastery is exceptional due to its treasury of precious old icons and other objects of superb value. Monks have been living here continuously since the 14th century. There are currently about 22 monks living here at this time. After our visit, it is about 10 km to the hotel. Check in and some personal time before dinner.

Serbia Day 28 Jun 13/Sep 26 Pec (Peja) - Novi Pazar-Kopaonik (B, D) - Hotel Grand This morning, we will be picked up at 9:30 am by our Serbian driver for a 15 minute drive to visit to the Patriarchate of Pec,

UNESCO. Please note: We cannot go any earlier because they have a liturgy that ends at 10 am. The complex has four churches build from 1220 to 1330. The oldest, dedicated to the Holy Apostles, was built in the mid-13th century, while the last one, devoted to St. Nicholas, dates back to the first half of the 14th century. The Patriarchate of Pec plays a major role in the Church and State history of Serbia. The nuns returned to the Patriarchate in 1957 to maintain and care for it. There are currently twenty-five nuns residing here at this time. From here it is just 30 minute drive to the Montenegro border town Rozaje. Due to political reasons we need to enter Serbia from Montenegro, not from Kosovo. We cross into Montenegro briefly (just a passport control check point) and a two hour scenic drive down along the valley of the River Ibar, to Novi Pazar, arriving approx 2 pm, where we stop for lunch. Novi Pazar, capital of the southern area of Serbia called Sandzak, is a predominantly Muslim community. The Old Town, is very Turkish - more like Bosnia. After lunch a quick walk around town with your guide. Afterwards, we visit Sopocani Monastery, one of the best monasteries in Serbia. Sopocani, built by the first Serbian medieval dynasty of Nemanjici during the peak of 13th century fresco painting, was the first Serbian Monastery to be listed on UNESCO. And continue to Kopaonik, (55 km). The rest of the evening at leisure. Dinner at the hotel restaurant.

Day 29 Jun 14/Sep 27 Kopaonik-Monastery Studenica (UNESCO) - Zlatibor (approx 3.5 hr drive) (B,D) – Hotel Mona We depart the hotel at 9 am and begin with a 70 km/1.5 hr drive to Monastery Studenica (UNESCO site), founded by Stefan Nemanja. This is considered to be the crowning achievement of medieval culture and art in Serbia. The monastic complex consists of the fascinating Church of the Virgin (1183 - 1196), the Church of SS Joachim and Anne (also known as the King's Church) and the Church of St. Nicholas, a simple single-nave building. The monastery circle contains monuments raised over a period of 130 years with several Serbian rulers having had a hand in the construction. At the inception of this period, the young Serbian feudal state under Stefan Nemanja was consolidating its independence. By King Milutin's reign, feudal Serbia had reached the height of its political, cultural and economic power. The strengthening of the medieval state and of its ruler's might is naturally reflected in these monuments. Continuing our journey, we ascend to Mount Zlatibor, a National Park of golden pines, after which it got its name (Zlatan - golden, Bor – pine tree). A short drive through the beautiful countryside takes us into an area where the vegetation transitions, giving you the impression that you are in a jungle. Here you can find unique flora and fauna, such as the Omorica, the rarest of the pine trees native to this area. We will stop for lunch in a town along the way, perhaps Ivanjica (pay direct). We arrive at about 3:30-4 pm to Zlatabor Town to enjoy a bit of free time exploring the shops and cafes. The car with the driver will park at a designated place for the group to reconvene at a specified time. Transfer to our hotel for dinner – typical local food – and overnight on the mountain of Zlatibor. Day 30 Jun 15/Sep 28 Zlatibor-Belgrade (B) - Hotel Moskva 4* (at the entrance to pedestrian zone) This morning we depart at 9 am for our drive through central Serbia, to Belgrade, the capital (235 km/approx. 4 hrs driving + 2 hrs sightseeing along the way). En-route we stop in the towns of Oplenac and Topola. In Oplenac we visit the Royal Mausoleum of the Serbian dynasty, founded by a soldier, Karadjordje, who led the Serbian uprising against Turkish rule in 1804. His great-great-great grandson, Crown Prince Alexander II, descended also from Queen Victoria, is considered to be the rightful King of Yugoslavia. The 20-odd royal tombs are inside the magnificent church of St George, white marble on the outside, and lined inside with the most beautiful mosaics - 40 million pieces of glass covering 38,000 square feet. In Topola, where Karadorde came from, one can still see some of the buildings he founded. We will arrive early evening. Many restaurant choices near the hotel. Day 31 Jun 16/Sep 29 Belgrade (B, D) – Hotel Moskva Belgrade has been the Serbian capital for 6 centuries. It is a city of rich cultural activities including concerts, theater performances, galleries and fine dining. Morning city tour of Belgrade, capital of Serbia since 1403, when Despot Stefan, son of Prince Lazar, moved his palace here. We start our tour by walking to Terazije Square, pass by City Hall, the National Assembly, the Church of St. Marko and Sq. Nikole Pasica, finally arriving at the elegant Republic Square where we can see architectural monuments such as the National Theatre and the National Museum. We then stroll along pedestrian Knez Mihajlova Street, the main shopping and meeting place, in order to see a few other masterpieces of Belgrade's architecture, such as the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts. We walk along the pedestrian street to the oldest quarters of the 19th century and see the Patriarchy, Orthodox Cathedral, the 'Question Mark Sign' Inn and Princess Ljubica's Palace (now housing a permanent exhibition of original furniture).

We’ll take a short break and enjoy a Turkish coffee at the oldest restaurant in Balkans which has not changed its décor since its opening in 1830. One block away, we arrive at the fortress of Kalemegdan, the symbol of Belgrade, situated where the River Sava flows into the Danube. Our visit to the fort will start with the Upper fortress area. It includes well-preserved artillery structures dating from the mid-18th century as well as a medieval fortification - an acropolis with original or partly-reconstructed ramparts, gateways, towers and the excavated ruins of a 15th century castle. A few Turkish monuments and some ancient Roman remains can also be seen here. In this section of the fortification complex we will see the elegant 18th century Baroque Clock Tower and the Roman Well. Our tour of the Eastern Ward includes the Rose Church of Our Lady, along with a panoramic view of the Lower Fortress and its monuments - the Nebojsa Tower, the Baroque Gate of Karl VI, and the remains of the medieval metropolitan palace. On the way back to the hotel, your guide will point out some suggested restaurants for lunch (on your own) as well as the Ethological Museum (with a nice collection of folk costumes and models of typical buildings from all over former Yugoslavia) that you can return to on your own. Enjoy the rest of the afternoon strolling about in the pedestrian zone. Our hotel is located right in the center of it, making it easy and delightful! This evening we experience the authentic charm of Belgrade and its bohemian/artist quarters of Skadarlija, similar to the Montmartre in Paris. We will enjoy dinner at one of the fine restaurants here, with typical food and music Day 32 Jun 17/Sep 30 Belgrade (B,D) – Hotel Moskva This morning we start at 830 am with a drive to Kaleniceva Pijaca, the largest market in Belgrade. Next is an interesting visit to the Nicola Tesla Museum in Vračar, just opened in 2014. The namesake of the museum and the electric cars, Nikola Tesla was a Serbian American inventor, electrical engineer, mechanical engineer, and futurist best known for his contributions to the design of the modern alternating current electricity supply system. From here we visit the biggest orthodox temple in Balkans – the still-unfinished St. Sava Church that shares its size and design with Aja Sofia in Istanbul. Afterwards, we drive around the most prestigious part of the town, see the royal compound (from the outside) and stop at Tito’s Complex. There we visit the grave and exhibition of gifts he received on various occasions (quite interesting). There is also a gift shop in the complex here. We return to the hotel for lunch on your own and time to refresh. This afternoon, we cross to the other side of the river to New Belgrade and see the new sports arena, congress center Sava, Chinese Embassy bombed by NATO in 1999 and the nearby old Zemun (this was once a separate town that has since been annexed as part of Belgrade). Tonight we have dinner at Restaurant Saran on the shore of the Danube in Zemun. Day 33 Jun 18/Oct 1 Depart. Transfer to the airport for flight home. Or join our Bulgaria tour to complete your Balkans experience!

One of the entrances of the Fort in Belgrade, Serbia

PRICE: $8950 per person based on minimum 4 people Single Room Supplement: $1100 ExtranightinBled:$93perpersontwinshare;$155singleroom.Arrivaltransferifnotarrivingonday1: $86percarIncludes: accommodation as listed or similar

Bled: Hotel Lovec 4*, http://www.lovechotel.com/en/ Piran: Hotel Piran 4* http://www.hotel-piran.si/en/ Porec: Grand Hotel Palazzo 4* http://grand-hotel-palazzo.porec.hotels-istria.net/en/ Opatija: Hotel Bristol 4* http://www.hotel-bristol.hr/ Plitvice: Hotel Degenija 3* best available https://www.hotel-degenija.com/ Split: Hotel Slavija, 4*superior room with terrace http://www.hotelslavija.hr/ Korcula: Hotel Fabris 3* best available https://thefabris.com/ Dubrovnik: Hotel Zagreb 4* http://hotelzagreb-dubrovnik.com/ Sarajevo: Hotel Astra Old Town 4*https://www.notahoteli.com/astraoldtown Mostar: Villa Fortuna 4* in old town http://www.villafortuna.ba/index.php/en/ Kotor: Hotel Astoria 4* http://astoriamontenegro.com/astoria-boutique-hotel-kotor/ Budva: Hotel Budva 4* https://www.hotel-budva.me/index.php/en/ Tirana: Hotel Opera, 4* boutique, steps from Skanderbeg Square, the National Historic Museum, National Theatre of Opera & Ballet are located. http://www.hotelopera.al/ Berat: traditional guesthouse in the historic Old Town. Hotel Desaret http://rezidencadesaret.com/en/ Saranda: Hotel Strora http://strora.hotelsaranda.com/en/ Gjirokastra: Hotel Argjiro https://www.hotelargjiro.al/ Korca: Cathedral Boutique Hotel http://hotel-cathedral-korce.korce.hotels-al.com/en/ Ohrid: Hotel Park Lake Side http://parklakesidehotel.com/ Skopje: Hotel Solun Spa standard room http://www.hotelsolun.com Pec: Hotel Dukagjini: http://www.hoteldukagjini.com/ Kopaonik: Hotel Grand 4* https://www.mkresort.com/ Zlatibor: Hotel Mona, https://www.monazlatibor.com/en/about-hotel Belgrade: Hotel Moskva 4* https://hotelmoskva.rs/ Arrival/departure transfers on tour dates (additional cost on other days)

English speaking driver with local guides in Bled, Ljubljana, Piran, Porec, Pazin, Plitvice, Zadar, Hvar, Korcula, Dubrovnik, Njegusi Village and Cetinje, Sarajevo, Mostar, Kotor, Budva, Centinje; one accompanying guide from Albania border through Albania, Macedonia, Kosovo + local guides in Macedonia and Kosovo; one guide throughout Serbia.

Daily breakfast, oyster and wine tastings on the Pelješac Peninsula, lunch in Kruja, lunch or dinner in Albania as listed, dinner in Kosovo, four dinners in Serbia. (8 lunches, 9 dinners total). Bottled water during sightseeing, 1 litre per day per person

Transport by ac mini-van or larger depending on group size—there will be more seats than people.

Monument entrance fees, tickets for catamaran Split-Hvar, Hvar- Korčula and ferry Korčula-Orebić.

Does Not Include: international flight, travel insurance, tips, personal expenses such as laundry, phone calls, drinks.

NOTES:

We are mostly driving on a local or mountain road, passing through villages and truly seeing the countryside. We will generally depart after breakfast at about 9 am and spend the day leisurely driving along with many stops to see sites, photo opps and have refreshments/bathroom breaks. We will generally arrive at the destination approx 5 PM. Dinner, when included, will be approx 7 pm.

The old towns and fort/castle complexes all require walking on cobblestones. These are slippery, worn from centuries of walking on them. Wear shoes with good traction. In Kruja, Berat and Gjirokastra the car cannot take us inside the area to be visited as it is too large for the narrow streets. The touring of Ohrid involves extensive walking. Anyone who has difficulty walking, can go by taxi (extra cost to be paid directly to the taxi driver, 6-12 euro). If there are a few people, you can share this cost.