The Craftsman

Greg TrybulaSpring/Summer 2013

The Craftsman

“A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist.” -Louis Nizer

CraftsmanThe

The Craftsman is the fashion mega trend that seeks to reanalyze the meaning of quality and simplicity in our modernized world. We have seen the creation of the nostalgic gentleman, however trends are leading to a more crafty, resource-ful man. The craftsman, as if lost in time, is once again appreciated for his talents, skill, patience, and products of elegant simplicity. Just as this look became popular in the Arts & Crafts Movement of the early 1900s, it has once again be-come apparent due to our demand for quality and skill along with our admiration for the power of nature and historical trends, not to men-tion our need to be efficient with our money.

During the recession we recently experienced, colors brightened and quality materials flooded out in collections to intoxicate consumers. Heavy, rugged de-signs of fall collections made from durable fabrics have begun to creep into spring collections (items of leather, denim, and suede featured in spring 2012). Now that our economy is bulking up again, I believe our tones will neutralize and these heavier trends will continue to move into spring including lighter denim outerwear, shearling, leather (in brushed and reptile) to join spring reg-ulars such as linen, cotton, and silk.

Maison Martin MargielaSpring/Summer 2012

In the collections we currently are seeing, we notice a definite move towards a more international man. From the bright, Mediterranean blues and bleached neutrals of spring 2012 to the heavier institution of plaid, lavish patterns, and relaxed fits in fall 2012 from fall 2011, our menswear is emigrating from the American tailored man or collegiate beyond the sea to a European tradesman.

BurberryFall/Winter 2012

KenzoFall/Winter 2011

DSquared2Fall/Winter 2012

Due to consumer frugality, timeless and quality items were heavily emphasized in the market. Not only are consumers still influenced by their budget, but they are also influenced more and more by the earthly impact of what they buy and participate in. This leads to the demand for more natural textiles; placing little emphasis on synthetics. These natural textiles are coming with very vintage, European looks. It’s as if the styles we’re seeing have been locally preserved for 75 years and are emerging once again in international fashion collections.

Dolce & GabbanaFall/Winter 2011

D&GSpring/Summer 2012

Dior HommeSpring/Summer 2012

OrganicCraftsmanThe

The development of the Organic Craftsman is a combination of lightweight, airy pieces for the hot spring and late summer that. Originating from manual laborer garments of the American South, these looks aim to serve functional-ity while looking comfortable and put-together. With hints of pale yellows and faded greens among the vast neutral tones, these styles elegantly define an organic, back-to-nature simplicity. Just as the arts and crafts movement of the early 1900s, this organic movement is a breath of fresh air drawn not only from fashion but our society’s need for “green” as well.

D&G Spring/Summer 2012

Pringle of ScotlandSpring 2012

D&GSpring/Summer 2012

By looking at lines from 2011 and 2012, the functionality of springwear is obvious. In this case, staying cool and keeping the sun at bay while wearing new materials and prints is crucial. This deprivation of functionally simple, natural, and fresh clothing comes from the industrial synthetics of the 80s and 90s and the commotion of the early 21st century. Many examples of this come from D&G’s spring/summer 2012 line. The prints, relaxed tailoring, and use of denim in combination with silks and linens make for a revitalized look.

KimmelSpring/Summer 2012

The key trends for the Organic Craftsman are, first and foremost, the beauti-fully intricate yet elegantly simple patterns that stem from the patterns of Wil-liam Morris, the founder of the Arts & Crafts Movement. Also crucial to this trend are the circle-brimmed, workers hat and drop-crotch trousers. Both items are incredibly functional and add a taste of tradition with a breath of fresh air to the rest of the style.

D&G Spring/Summer 2012

D&G Spring/Summer 2012

GivenchySpring/Summer 2012

100% Cotton Jersey Knit100% Silk Twill

100% Silk Crepe Print 100% Irish, Churn Linen

100% Cotton Denim;Stonewashed

100% Organic Cotton; Baby Rib Knit

Purely white

New Growth

Frosted DandelionMorris Green

Recycled Linen

Crushed EggshellTierra

Midnight Olive

The color and fabric inspira-tion for Organic should be obvious; natural, calming, yet still bright. These colors complement one another to create a harmonious and cleansing effect on con-sumers; cleansing and empowering them each time they wear the garments. The fabric choices for the Organic include all natural fab-rics such as silks, cotton, linens, and denim. While the variety of different fibers is limited, the treatments and knits of those fibers will vary and create interesting combina-tions of textiles.

CraftsmanThe

International Tradesman

Immigrating onto the runway, the International Tradesman is a collection of styles that bring the trades of the European immigrant populations of the early 20th cen-tury to the modern individual. The reappearance of utility aprons and gloves in combination with double-breasted suiting and clas-sic, old-fashioned brief bags of the past two years work to create an incredibly unique individual; one who tells a story all while looking sharp and skilled.

ZengaFall/Winter 2012

The classic gentleman has been created in the past few years of collec-tions; structured, classic suiting with well polished accessories and time-less prints. However, consumers are now looking towards a more obvious-ly skilled individual. Who better to look to than the tradesman himself? Carpenters, leather workers, cobblers, blacksmiths; those specializing in these crafts are the definition of a man. Not only are they skilled, but they work hard, make beautiful works of art, and still dress in a classic fashion.

DSquared2Fall/Winter 2012

GivenchyFall/Winter 2011

Louis VuittonFall/Winter 2011

Louis VuittonSpring/Summer 2012

The important factors in creating a confident, skilled tradesmen involve the necessary items for work; the apron, gloves, and boots. Tartans/plaids and Scot-tish shearling will be important (even in slight details) to the look by rooting the tradesman to his home country ancestors. Lightweight, double-breasted suiting in combination with the occasional wingtip and tote bag for tools finish the persona and add a touch of sophistication to the individual.

EtroFall/Winter 2011

Vivienne WestwoodSpring/Summer 2012

The Local FirmFall/Winter 2011

VarvatosFall 2012

100% Dupioni Silk Plaid

100% Cotton Plaid; Double-Sided Yarn Dyed Voile

100% Tropical Wool

50% Wool/50% Linen Suiting; Check

100% Churn Linen

100% Shot Cotton Shirting

Revolution Ash

PorcelainSunburn

Cumulonimbus

Desert Dromedary Scottish Gold

Baltic Blue

Foothills RedTarred Ave.

The tartans and plaids involve several colors within each single patter. The colors chosen in this example signify the overall expres-sion of each individual plaid along with expression colors that pop in and out of certain plaids. The com-mon plaids are made from heavier cottons and wools; however, the plaids of this style are lightweight cotton or silk and, when paired with the lightweight wool suitings or linen and cotton shirtings, provides a layered, international, and intelli-gent style.

Rugged RushCraftsman

The

The trend of Rugged Rush reaches into the use of heavy materials (denim, corduroy, leather, shearling) that were used often during the California Gold Rush and mining operations of the Southwest. These rugged outerwear styles have appeared in various lines from 2011 and 2012 keeping consumers warm. However, these styles will be adapted into cooler, lighter-weight looks for spring/summer that add a higher sense of manual labor, masculinity, and hard-working rug-gedness to the men who wear them.

James LongSpring/Summer 2011

The past two years in menswear have undoubtedly delivered very masculine trends along with very androgenous trends as well. These extremes are further being pushed and are driving men to be more and more rugged. Rugged Rush is a response to that direction in which men are being old-fashioned men to an extreme; almost rearing the line of costuming.

Alexander McQueenFall/Winter 2011

Salvatore FerragamoSpring 2012

AcneSpring/Summer 2011

Salvatore FerragamoFall/Winter 2011

Jean Paul GaultierFall/Winter 2012

The most identifying factors of this trend will be the wider-brimmed hat that resembles the traditional felt cowboy (or poet) hat. Heavy leather boots, gold accessories, and shearling trim on lapels will also be key styles to this look. Each of these elements adds adventure and pure ruggedness to the individual.

100% Cotton; Wale Corduroy

100% Cotton Denim

100% Churn Linen100% Polyester Sheared Faux Beaver Fur

100% Genuine Leather; Reptile & Cattle

100% Genuine Suede

Dusted BootPanned Gold

Mine Shaft

Shadowed Gold

EggshellDesert Night

Worn Denim

Silt

The Rugged Rush is colored with dulled neutrals, deep blues, and popping golden hues. These colors are meant to symbolize gold in the silt of the river in which panners would slave over. The sturdy fabrics chosen will compli-ment these colors with their sturdy base and delicate pops of color. Though these fabrics are sturdy and rugged, they will be lighter weight and designed for warmer weather climates. The leather used will be both reptile (accessories and boots) and cattle leathers (outerwear & apparel).

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Greg Trybulatrybulgj@mail.uc.edu

(574) 274-0451