the crinoline period 1850-1870 chelsea bell southern methodist university msa 3325 spring 2013...

The Crinoline Period1850-1870

Chelsea BellSouthern Methodist University

MSA 3325Spring 2013

Cutaway view of crinoline, Punch magazine, August 1856

The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

Historical BackgroundEngland• Queen Victoria exemplified the British ideal of womanhood

• Mid-century Britain enjoyed great prosperity

• Britain hosted the Great Exhibition of 1851


Historical BackgroundFrance• Louis Napoleon becomes Napoleon III and the Second French Republic becomes the Second Empire

• France experienced economic growth and Paris was rebuilt

• Paris again became the center of European fashion with the help of Charles Frederick Worth

• Napoleon III abdicated and fled to Britain in 1870

• The Second Empire vanished and was replaced by the Third Republic

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Alexandre_Cabanel_002.jpg


Historical BackgroundUnited States• Abraham Lincoln elected President in 1860

• Southern states secede and form the Confederacy

• North vs. South in the American Civil War

• Lincoln issued the Emancipation Proclamation in 1863

• Lincoln Assassinated in 1865


Charles Frederick WorthThe Father of Haute Couture

The Empress Eugénie (Eugénie de Montijo, 1826–1920, Condesa de Teba), 1854Franz Xaver Winterhalter (German, 1805–1873)

Empress Elisabeth in Courtly Gala Dress with Diamond Stars, 1865Franz Xaver Winterhalter (German, 1805–1873)


Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture

• Sets the dates and location for French fashion week

• Establishes industry standards on clothing

• Establishes standards on the use of the word “haute couture”

presently the Fédération française de la couture

• Originated in 1868 and is still active today

• The governing body of the French fashion industry


Sewing Machine

• The Singer Sewing machine hit the market in 1851

• The number of sewing machines doubled between 1860 and 1865

• Became a vital factor in the development of industry


Fashion Plate, 1853

Costume for WomenThe Crinoline Period


Steel Cage Crinoline, 1858

Costume for WomenCage Crinoline


UndergarmentsGetting Dressed

Chemise

Drawers

Corset

Crinoline

Corset cover

Petticoat


Costume for WomenDaytime dresses

Day dresses, 1861


Costume for WomenEvening dresses

Portrait of Princesse Albert de Broglie, née Joséphine-Eléonore-Marie-Pauline de Galard de

Brassac de Béarn, 1853Jean Auguste Dominque Ingres (French, 1780-1867)

Charles Frederick Worth, circa 1860


Fashion & CelebrityThe Garibaldi Blouse

Giuseppe Garibaldi

Past patterns #709


Dress ReformThe “Bloomer” Costume

• Consisted of a short skirt over Turkish Trousers

• Initially adopted by feminist Elizabeth Smith Miller after a trip to Europe

• Named for Amelia Bloomer who adopted the style and wrote about it favorably

• Provoked much ridicule


Costume for WomenThe Media

A caricature sequence of posed joke photographs, circa 1860, showing five

stages of putting on a crinoline

A packing dilemma

The hazards of public transportation


Costume Evolution1850-1870

The Bustle Period and the Nineties1870-1900

Chelsea BellSouthern Methodist University

MSA 3325Spring 2013

The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

Historical Background1870-1890

England France United States• Victoria had already been queen for over 30 when the bustle arrived as popular fashion

• Industrial England was experiencing an economic boom

• England experienced a gradual extension of voting rights

• The period began with the shock of the Franco-Prussian War

• Napoleon III surrendered to the Prussian armies and fled to England

• The Second Empire ended and was replaced by the Third Republic

• Paris endured a bloody Civil War known as the Commune

• The Civil War had ended

• The country was united from East to West by railroads

• Settlers were rapidly moving westward

• Industrialization, urbanization, and immigration were continuing at a rapid pace


Evolution of the Bustle1870-1878

1867

1873Daytime dress, 1874



1877


1885The Bustle Period and the Nineties:

1870-1900


Evolution of the BustleA Visual Timeline

Undergarments1870-1890



Active Sports & Clothing1870-1890

Bathing costume, 1874


ManufacturingTextile and Clothing Production

• Power looms replaced handlooms

• Synthetic dyes became common and were more reliable

• Silks were weighted

• Cotton fabrics were improved with mercerizing

• Women’s ready-to-wear clothing became available in department stores

• Mail-order catalogs proved successful for rural shoppers


Visual Arts & CostumePre-Raphaelite Dress

Jane Morris by Dante Gabriel Rossetti, 1868 Symphony in White No 1

by James MccNeill Whistler, 1862

May Morris by Dante Gabriel Rossetti, 1872


Visual Arts & CostumeAesthetic Dress

Countess Brownlow,1879

Oscar Wilde, 1882 Couple in Aesthetic Dress, 1880s


Visual Arts & CostumeAesthetic Dress

A Private View at the Royal Academy 1881William Powell Frith


Visual Arts & CostumeArt Nouveau

House of Worth, 1898


Costume for WomenThe 1890s

Fashion Plate, 1892Evening gowns, 1893



Tailor-mades, 1890s

http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&docid=YCzwJTDVJNCFDM&tbnid=E_h0l7Ny0IsFlM:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nypl.org%2Fblog%2Fauthor%2Fpaula-baxter&ei=5BhZUb7YD4KY9QTDmIGYBw&bvm=bv.44442042,d.dmQ&psig=AFQjCNG2sTwgPe7r1z0-AEuwBprG5H6E2A&ust=1364879881887906



1890s



Walking Suits, 1894 Bicycle suit, 1890s


Costume for Men1870-1900

the crinoline period 1850-1870 chelsea bell southern methodist university msa 3325 spring 2013...

Documents

crinoline slide

crinoline period

bustle period

petticoat slide

ridicule slide

development of industry

french fashion industry

visual timeline slide