the culinary revolutionfranker/week03food.pdf–kiwicha or amaranth –quinua or quinoa quinoa...

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Montclair State University Department of Anthropology

Anth 140: Nonwestern Contributions to the Western World

Dr. Richard W. Franke

Lecture for Week 03

The Food RevolutionWeatherford chapter 4

Pages 59–78.

In second edition, pages 77−101.

The Culinary RevolutionWeatherford chapter 6Pages 99–116.

In second edition, pages 128–150

This Lecture Was Last Updated on 21 February, 2016; on 24 May, 2014;

and on 22 Sept., 2015 and 31 August, 2019

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This Lecture Was Last Updated on 9 December, 2016;

21 February, 2016;

on 24 May, 2014;

and on 22 Sept., 2015

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Anth 140: Non Western Contributions to the Western World


The foods Native Americans Gave Us

The learning objectives for week 03 are:

– to learn the most important foods domesticated and developed by Native Americans

– to appreciate the health benefits of many Native American foods

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The Foods Native Americans Gave Us

Terms you should know for week 03 are:

– Quechua

– barbecue

– Nahuatl

– grits

– Example: Nahuatl is the language associated with the Aztec people. The English words chili, coyote, tomato, chocolate and avocado come to us from the Nahuatl language

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The Foods Native Americans Gave Us

Sources:

Crosby, Alfred W. Jr. 1972. The Columbian Exchange: Biological and Cultural Consequences of 1492.

Westport, Connecticut: Greenwood Press. The book that inspired the video.

Densmore, Frances. 1974 [orig. 1928]. How the Indians Use Wild Plants for Food, Medicine and

Crafts. New York: Dover Publications.

Foster, Nelson, and Linda S. Cordell, eds. 1992. Chilies to Chocolate: Food the Americas Gave the

World. Tucson: University of Arizona Press.

Urdanivia, Claudia. 2014. Andean Quinoa: Local Farmers in a Global Market. Anthropology Now

6(2): 35-43. September, 2014.

This slide updated 22 September, 2015

https://msuweb.montclair.edu/~franker/Anth140/SupplementalMaterials/Urdanivia_2014.pdf

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“There is only one Machu Picchu, but it guards many mysteries.”

• Ancient Peruvian city 8,000+ ft above sea level

• House styles too fancy to be for peasants

• Neat lines and mortarless seams like best of Inca architecture

• (Re-)discovered by U.S. archaeologist Hiram Bingham in 1911

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Montclair State University

Department of AnthropologyAnth 140: Nonwestern Contributions

to the Western WorldDr. Richard W. Franke

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Many Romantic Interpretations

• Inca holdout center after Spanish conquest

• Inca sacred city

• Place to hide Inca noble women from Spaniards

• Monastery with virgins dedicated to the sacred coca plant, etc.

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• But Inca very practical

• Why line the steep mountain path with terraces, difficult to achieve

• Some terraces only 6 inches in width

• Others one hour above the city. Why?

• Weatherford noted plant species vary on terraces of various altitudes

• Was Machu Picchu an agricultural research center?

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• Whether yes or no, we can argue that ancient Andeans did more plant experiments than any people in the world

• Developed plants to acclimate to various types of soil and other conditions

• Developed many crops that still do not have English names

• Grew many varieties of corn – although corn was originally developed in Mexico or Central America, not Peru

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Two currently important Peruvian grains are – Kiwicha or amaranth– Quinua or quinoa

Quinoa (KEEN-wah) is now available in US health food stores and supermarkets

Quinoa has recently be dubbed “super wheat” because of its unusually high nutritional value

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• Has 181% the lysine content of wheat, one of wheat’s main missing amino acids

• Has 240% the calcium

• 256% the iron

• 113% the food energy

• Has 12- 18% protein compared to 12% for wheat (7 to 8% for rice)

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The Foods Native Americans Gave Us –Quinoa: 2015 Update

Read a short recent scholarly article about how Quinoa farmers in Peru are trying to

produce quinoa for the increasingly interested world market but also to maintain the species

diversity that will help avoid catastrophes like the great Irish potato famine.

Article is by a 2008 MSU graduate who grew up in Paterson, NJ, went on to graduate school

at MSU – receiving a certificate in Community Development in 2010 also at MSU – then a

Master’s Degree at Hunter College of the City University of New York in 2013. She now

works in the local area in an urban gardening project. Click on the article title below to

access the article.

Urdanivia, Claudia. 2014. Andean Quinoa: Local Farmers in a Global Market. Anthropology Now

6(2): 35-43. September, 2014.

This slide was added 22 September, 2015

https://msuweb.montclair.edu/~franker/Anth140/SupplementalMaterials/Urdanivia_2014.pdf

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But while quinoa excites modern

nutritionists and agricultural

specialists hoping to solve the world

food problem, it was a different

Peruvian crop that changed the dietary

history of the world.

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The Potato: Update 2013• English word comes from the Spanish “patata.”

• Spanish word may be from Taino “batata” – sweet potato

• Taino: language spoken by native peoples of the Caribbean

• plus Quechua “papa,” the word for potato in

• Quechua: the main precolonial language spoken by the peoples of the Andes including the Inca as well as about 3 million modern Peruvians

• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potato

• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quechua_languages

This slide added 09 February 2013

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potato

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quechua_languages

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The Potato: Update 2013• According to the Wikipedia entry on Taino

language:

• English words of Taíno derivation include canoe,

potato, cay/key, barbecue, hurricane, hammock,

maize, cassava, Caribbean, cannibal, Cuba,

Jamaica, Bahamas, iguana, savannah,

papaya/pawpaw, guava, yucca, maguey,

manatee, mangrove, and maybe tobacco.

This slide added 09 February 2013

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ta%C3%ADno_language

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/canoe

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/potato

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/cay

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/barbecue

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/hurricane

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/hammock

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/maize

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/cassava

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/Caribbean

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/cannibal

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/Cuba

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/Jamaica

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/Bahamas

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/iguana

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/savannah

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/papaya

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/pawpaw

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/guava

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/yucca

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/maguey

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/manatee

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/mangrove

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/tobacco

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The Potato• Grown in Peru for at least 8,000 years

• Developed from a common tuber known as far away as Navajo area of Arizona

• Peruvians grew 3,000 varieties

• Only 250 grown in North America today

• Only 20 varieties make up 75% of current U.S. potato harvest

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The PotatoAccording to the Centro Internacional de la Papa [International Potato Center] in Peru

– Potato now the 4th most important crop in the world

– Centro is storing 100 wild varieties and 3,800 cultivated varieties

– FAO holds rights to this germ plasm – makes available free

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The Potato• Was basis for several Andean empires

including the Inca

• Andean farmers invented freeze drying – see next slide [2016 update]

• Developed meat drying technique that led to “jerky,” from Quechua “charqui,” a popular meat dish around the world today

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Update: 9 December, 2016

Freeze Dying the PotatoThe New York Times of August 11, 2016 describes how the Andean peoples developed freeze drying that has more recently been used to feed astronauts on space missions. Click hereor just below…

https://www.nytimes.com/2016/08/11/world/what-in-the-world/andes-incas-chuno.html?rref=collection%2Fbyline%2Fsimon-

romero&action=click&contentCollection=undefined&region=stream&module=stream_unit&version=latest&contentPlacement=35

&pgtype=collection

https://www.nytimes.com/2016/08/11/world/what-in-the-world/andes-incas-chuno.html?rref=collection/byline/simon-romero&action=click&contentCollection=undefined&region=stream&module=stream_unit&version=latest&contentPlacement=35&pgtype=collection

http://www.nytimes.com/2016/08/11/world/what-in-the-world/andes-incas-chuno.html?rref=collection/byline/simon-romero&action=click&contentCollection=undefined&region=stream&module=stream_unit&version=latest&contentPlacement=35&pgtype=collection

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The Potato• Before potato Europeans ate

– Turnips

– Wheat

– Barley

– Oats

All are vulnerable to weather problems

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The Potato• Potato grows

underground, better protected in north Europe climate

• Potato plus corn called “miracle crops” by French historian Fernand Braudel

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The Potato

• One hectare (2.47 acres) of potato produces 7.5 million calories versus 4.2 million for wheat

• Potato also easier to grow; requires less labor input

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The Potato• Grows faster than grains

• Grows in wider variety of soils

• Does not require milling as does grain

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The Potato• Europeans slow to adopt potato

• Thought it caused leprosy

• Thought it from satan since it is not mentioned in The Bible

• Thought it caused flatulence

• Thought it was an aphrodisiac

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The Potato• Gradual spread of potato improved health of

Europeans

• Increased Vitamin C content of diet

• Led to less tooth decay

• Shifted power balance from southern Europe to northern Europe

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The Potato• Led to large population explosion in Ireland

• Land controlled by absentee British landlords

• Became dependent on a small number of varieties

• 1845 to 1850 potato blight caused “The Great Hunger,” famine that killed more than 1 million Irish and led to mass emigration to the New World

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The Potato Famine

• Known in Ireland as “An Ghorta Mor,” the Great Hunger

• “Black 47” for 1847 the worst year of the famine

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The Potato• Weatherford argues

the famine could have been avoided had Europeans planted as the Peruvians did –mixing different varieties on the field to reduce vulnerability

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The Great Potato Famine: 2013 Update

•Two blocks west of the World Trade Center ground zero site at the corner of 290 Vesey and North End Ave. you can find the Irish Hunger Memorial

•This outdoor garden museum is one of the most unusual and creative monuments to the suffering, exile and death of a people. For a virtual tour, click on:

https://www.newyorkcitywalk.com/html/images_IrishFamine.html

This slide updated 09 February, 2013

https://www.bpcparks.org/bpcp/parks/parks.php

https://www.newyorkcitywalk.com/html/images_IrishFamine.html

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The Great Irish

Potato Famine

Outdoor Museum in Manhattan

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The Great Irish Potato Famine Outdoor Museum in Manhattan also contains a wall with newspaper articles from the time

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The famine is the

subject of one of the

most famous Irish

historical studies,

published in 1962 by

Cecil Woodham-Smith.




2013 Update

An additional short survey of the history of the potato and of the Irish Great Hunger appears in:

Mann, Charles C. 2011. 1493: Uncovering the New World Columbus Created. New York: Random House.

Chapter 6 on “The Agro-Industrial Complex,” pages 251 − 271 and for the Irish potato famine, pages 282 - 295

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2016 Update

And on 19 February, 2016 The New York Times Weekend Arts, page C-27, ran an article about an exhibition of paintings of the “rebel” Irish artist Daniel MacDonald, thought to have made the only painting of Irish peasants during this historic disaster. Click the link below to read about this painting:

https://www.nytimes.com/2016/02/19/art

s/design/the-artist-who-dared-to-paint-

irelands-great-famine.html

This slide added 21 February, 2016 37

http://www.nytimes.com/2016/02/19/arts/design/the-artist-who-dared-to-paint-irelands-great-famine.html




2013 Update

A good source explaining the significance of planting the potato as a monocrop can be found at (just click on the link):

https://evolution.berkeley.edu/evolibrary/article/agriculture_02

38This slide added 25 December 2012

https://evolution.berkeley.edu/evolibrary/article/agriculture_02

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Native American Crops

• More than 300 known; each with several varieties

• Indians gave more than 3/5 of the crops now in cultivation

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Native American Crops• Beans – which increased the protein supply

worldwide

– Kidney beans

– Snap beans

– String beans

– Mexican frijole

– Many others

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Native American Crops• Peanuts (or groundnuts) became especially

important in Africa

• Sunflower now a major crop in Russia

• Squashes of many types – including zucchini

• …and…one of the world’s most important crops…

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Native American CropsCorn

• Excellent feed for cows and chickens [but new evidence suggests cows more likely to get sick on corn feed]

• Grows in wide range of soils and climates

• With beans and rice corn makes nutritious vegetarian diet

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Corn• Dextrose or corn syrup

replacing cane sugar in processed foods

• Corn syrup closest to human glucose of any plant derivative

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Corn – 2011 update• However, recent medical

research now suggests that sugar may be implicated in causing a number of types of cancer as well as obesity.

• And…corn sugar may be worse even than cane sugar in this regard.

• For an overview of this issue, click here.

https://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/17/magazine/mag-17Sugar-t.html?_r=1&ref=sugar




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Sugar – 2013 update

A footnote on sugar: The cane sugar used on the table in most households in the

USA was apparently domesticated in New Guinea in the Southwest Pacific about

10,000 years ago – thus another non Western contribution. Crusaders in

Jerusalem in the 11th and 12th centuries may have brought the sugar habit back

to Europe.

The August 2013 issue of National Geographic has a detailed update on what is

currently known and speculated on regarding cane sugar’s origins and its effects

in the industrial, processed way we use it in modern societies.

For the article by Rich Cohen, click here.

https://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2013/08/sugar/cohen-text

This slide was added 04 August, 2013






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Sugar – 2014 update

And if you are concerned about sugar’s effects, here are two pieces about how

dangerous and addictive it may be and how the average person eats twice as

much sugar per day as they should:

https://www.johnshopkinshealthalerts.com/alerts/nutrition_weight_control/The-Case-Against-Added-Sugar_6878-

1.html?s=W3R_140524_001&st=email

And how corporate America is adding extra sugar to our foods and the possible

connection of this practice to the growing diabetes epidemic:

https://www.yesmagazine.org/planet/katie-couric-investigates-america-s-sugar-pushers-in-fed-

up?utm_source=YTW&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=20140523

This slide was added 24 May, 2014

https://www.johnshopkinshealthalerts.com/alerts/nutrition_weight_control/The-Case-Against-Added-Sugar_6878-1.html?s=W3R_140524_001&st=email

http://www.yesmagazine.org/planet/katie-couric-investigates-america-s-sugar-pushers-in-fed-up?utm_source=YTW&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=20140523

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Corn – 2013 update

• Other recent research suggests that Native American corn contains more “phytonutrients” that resist cancer, cardiovascular diseases, diabetes and dementia than does modern corn.

• The (super)“sweet corn” sold in supermarkets results from radiation-based experiments in the 1920s that helped identify the best ways to make corn sweeter, not healthier.

• For info on this from The New York Times of 26 May, 2013, click here.

This slide was added 26 May 2013

https://www.nytimes.com/2013/05/26/opinion/sunday/breeding-the-nutrition-out-of-our-food.html?pagewanted=1&_r=0&emc=eta1

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Native American Crops: Corn

• Tortillas: soak corn in water and lime or ashes to produce nixtamal. Grind between stones to make masa.

• Torillas facilitate calcium and protein absorption, make the corn healthier to eat.

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Native American Crops: Corn

• Grits: similar to tortillas at start: soak corn with lye from wood ashes to make hominy

• Hominy an easier means to eat corn

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Native American Crops: Other Major Gifts

• Tomatoes: high in Vitamin C

• Wild rice

• Sweet peppers– Green

– Red and others

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Native American Crops• Original pepper comes from

spice islands, or Moluccas• “Malukku” is word for pepper in

much of Asia• Chili peppers (hot • chillies)

– High in Vitamin C– May help prevent or

cure intestinal infections– May aid in stimulating digestive

juices

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Native American Crops: Cassava

• Originated in Amazon region• Native Americans taught

Europeans how to process out the hydrocyanic acid –which is used as a meat tenderizer

• Now used in baby foods and in tapioca

• In poor countries cassava is a “hunger crop;” not very nutritious but high calorie output per unit of land

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Native American Crops: Chocolate

• From Aztec language (Nahuatl) chocoatl

• Contains a “theobromine” parallel to caffeine in stimulating the body

• Theobromines more gradual, so the high is less jagged

• Chocolate also contains caffeine

• Contains fat





• Maya may have used chocolate in

religious ceremonies;

• Columbus brought back chocolate

to Spain from his second voyage

in 1493;

• Cacao tree is closely related to the

plant in Africa that produces the

cola nut, the flavoring in Coca

Cola;

• Chocolate passed into French

pastries in 1660 when Marie-

Thérèse married Louis 14. She

was a chocolate enthusiast.

• Source: Foster and Cordell pages 105−121– see slide #4

20 January 2012 Slide added 20 January 2012 54

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Is chocolate good for your health? Click

here to read an article from the New York

Times (12 February 2004, page F-5) on

this subject.

Source:

https://msuwebdav.montclair.edu/pubweb_vol1/franker/Anth140/Supplemen

talMaterials/chocolate.pdf

20 January 2012 Slide added 20 January 2012

https://msuwebdav.montclair.edu/pubweb_vol1/franker/Anth140/SupplementalMaterials/chocolate.pdf

https://msuwebdav.montclair.edu/pubweb_vol1/franker/Anth140/SupplementalMaterials/chocolate.pdf

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Is Chocolate Endangered?

2012 Update

The February 12, 2012 issue 302(6) of Scientific American, pages 60−65 claims that high demand plus climate change may be threatening the delicate plants that produce the cacao bean − the main element in chocolate.


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• 40 to 50 million people worldwide depend on cacao for earning their living

• Global warming makes tropics too hot for the plant;

• Global warming causing more powerful rainstorms that break off the flowers before the pods can develop;

• Global warming facilitating the spread of infections and parasites – cacao tree very susceptible


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• Cacao plant has limited genetic variety, makes it more vulnerable;

• 70% now comes from Africa where many farmers are too poor to afford investment in improvements;

• Read the article for yourself: here.

• Chocolate production may harm tropical rainforest diversity (Foster and Cordell – see slide #4);

• See 54 minute Mars Company video on the future of

chocolate here.20 January 2012 This slide added 20 January 2012

https://msuwebdav.montclair.edu/pubweb_vol1/franker/Anth140/SupplementalMaterials/ScientificAmericanFeb2012Chocolate.pdf

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BvTw5LtCis

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National and Regional Dishes Based on Native American Foods

1. Italian Minestrone: green beans, kidney beans, potatoes, tomatoes2. Spanish Gazpacho: tomatoes, sweet peppers3. Hungarian Goulash: sweet red peppers, potatoes4. British Fish and Chips: potatoes5. Tex-Mex: beans, corn, chilies6. Indian curries: chilies7. New England Clambake: clams and how to cook them

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National and Regional Dishes Based on Native American Foods

8. Succotash: corn, lima beans9. Turkey with cranberries: turkey, cranberries10. Cornbread (cornpone): corn and means of processing11. Hush puppies: corn meal globs fried in bear fat12. Pecan pie: pecans13. Baked beans: maple sugar cooked with beans (Europeans added some hog fat to make it “pork and beans”)14. Potato chips, French fries, corn chips, nachos, tortilla chips

15. Dried beef “jerky” (from charqui: an Inca Quechua word




Native Americans are

attempting to recover

some of the agricultural

practices lost during the

European occupation. Update 09 December, 2016

This slide was added 06 June, 2013 61




Native Americans are

attempting to recover

some of the

agricultural practices

lost during the

European occupation.

Read about “putting

the culture back into

agriculture.” Click

here.

Update 06 June, 2013

This slide was added 06 June, 2013 62

https://www.nationofchange.org/putting-culture-back-agriculture-reviving-native-food-and-farming-traditions-1370445482

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Coca-Cola:

An Afro-Indian Drink

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Coca-Cola: An Afro-Indian Drink• Coca part from the coca leaf – Native

Americans chew or make into tea that alleviates pain and overcomes thirst, hunger, itching and fatigue

• Cola part from cola nut

– Africans used the kola

as a stimulant

• Cola one of very few

plants to contain caffeine

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Coca-Cola: An Afro-Indian Drink

• Coca to Europe in 1565

• In 1880s German chemists isolated the active ingredient that became known

as “cocaine”

• Main use as anesthesia for

painful eye surgery and other

operations

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• Widely used as pain killer by Civil War veterans in US

• Morphine – another pain killer so widespread among soldiers and veterans it was called the “army disease”

• “Cocaine…runin’ round my brain” popular phrase

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Coca-Cola: An Afro-Indian Drink• Cocaine still known today under commercial names

such as novocain and used by dentists etc.

• 1880s Mariani’s Coca wine popular with Pope, Queen Victoria, President McKinley, Thomas Edison

• US Confederate veteran John Pemberton replaced the alcohol with African kola nut to make better flavor

• 1886 Coca-Cola syrup to flavor water

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• Pemberton a wounded war vet suffered severe morphine addiction

• Discovered that cocaine brought relief from that addiction

• In 1902 Georgia State Legislature outlawed cocaine

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• In 1888 Asa Candler bought company and expanded to worldwide market

• In 1914 US Congress passed law requiring doctor’s prescription for heroine or cocaine

• Does Coke still contain cocaine? Company refuses to release its formula

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End of Slides on

Foods from the Native Americans

Week 03

the culinary revolutionfranker/week03food.pdf–kiwicha or amaranth –quinua or quinoa quinoa...

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