the enigmac no*on of perceived minerality in white wine · the enigmac no*on of perceived...
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Theenigma*cno*onofperceivedmineralityinwhitewine
1WendyV.Parr,2JordiBallester,2DominiqueValen*n,2DominiquePeyron,&3ClaireGrose
1LincolnUniversity,Christchurch,NZ;2UniversitédeBourgogne,Dijon,
France;3PlantandFoodResearch,Marlborough,NZ
Mineralityin
wine?
Mineralityinwine
• Fashionableno*on– Increasinglyreportedasawinedescriptor
• Goodformarke*ng– Linkswiththeconceptofterroirorprovenance
• Unlikelythatwearetas*ngdirectlythevineyardrocks&soil(Maltman,2013)
So,whatarewetas*ng?
Isitallinthemind?
Inonesense,yes:• Flavour(minerality)isinthebrain,notinthewine• Thebrainintegratesthesensoryinputsviapercep*on
Allinthemind?
Allinthemind?Mentalconstructorsensorialreality?
• Whatareweperceivingthatwewanttolabelasmineral?– i.e.,whatinwineevokesgeological
metaphorsviaassocia*vememory?Flinty;silex;smoky;chalky;calcareous;oystershell;iodine;fossils;wetstones;stony;earthy;pencillead;graphite;matchs*ck;gunflint;struckmatch
So,theques*onofinterestis:
• Arewesensingspecificcharactersinwine?– Data-drivenpercep*onbasedonthephenomenologicalproper*esofthewine
• Or,ismineralityprimarilyamentalconstruc*on?– Top-down,orknowledge-based,percep*on
• Andisourexperienceofperceivedmineralityinwinesharedbyothers?– Withinaculture?– Acrosscultures?
Study:PerceivedmineralityinFrench&NZSauvignonwines
Qsarisingfromthemedia&anecdotalreports:
• Canmineralitybesmelled,orisitapalatesensa*ononly?
• Howisperceivedmineralityrelatedtoaspectsofacidity?
• Doesperceivedmineralityhaveitsbasisinrela*veabsenceofvarietalflavour?
• Howisperceivedmineralityrelatedtopercep*onofreduc*vecharacteris*cs?
• Whatotherwinecharacteris*csassociatewithordrivepercep*onofmineralcharacter?
Sauvignonstudy:Whatdidthe‘tasters’do?
(Parretal.,FQAP,2015)• 32French&31NZwineprofessionalsassessed
French&NZ100%Sauvignons(2010vintage)– Theycategorised&ratedwineafributesof16wines,includingjudgingminerality
• Each‘taster’assessedthewinesvia3modesofpercep*on
• Smellingonly• Full‘tas*ng’• Palateonly:taste&trigeminal(mouthfeel)
English French Nose only cond.
Nose clip cond.
Global cond.
Mineral Minéral yes yes yes Passionfruit Fruit de la passion yes no yes Herbaceous Herbe coupée yes no yes Boxwood/cat's urine Buis / pipi de chat yes no yes Citrus (lemon; grapefruit) Agrumes (citron, pamplemousse) yes no yes
Green (vegetal/green capsicum)
Végétal / poivron vert yes no yes
Sweetness Sucré no yes yes Bitterness Amertume no yes yes Acidity/sourness Acidité / Vivacité no yes yes Astringency Astringent / sécheresse no yes yes Concentration (for nose only) Concentration /palate weight
Concentration (nez) Corps/volume en bouche
yes yes yes
Freshness/zingy Fraîcheur yes yes yes Flinty/stony/ smoky/gun flint/ Pierre a fusil / silex frotté/fumé yes yes
yes
Chalky/calcareous Craie/calcaire yes yes yes Oyster shell/iodine Coquillages/iodé yes no yes Pencil/lead/graphite Mine de crayon / graphite yes yes yes Matchstick/struck match/ burnt
rubber/sulphide Allumette / allumette grattée / phosphore/ Caoutchou brule / souffre / reduit
yes no yes
Complexity Complexité yes no yes Familiarity Familiarité yes no yes Liking Aimez ce vin? yes no yes
Whatdidwefind?FrenchandNZwineswerejudgedsimilarlyintermsofoverallintensityofmineralcharacter
FBCBB
FBCLM
FLCH
FLPC
FSBAGA
FSBI
FSFC FSHB
NZAVFB NZAVV
NZLWB
NZLWWH
NZRS
NZRSL
NZSVA NZSVCH
Mineral NC
Mineral O Mineral G
-2
-1
0
1
2
3
-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3
F2 (2
4,83
%)
F1 (69,44 %)
Biplot (axes F1 et F2 : 94,27 %)
Howwerethewinescharacterised?FrenchFreeSor*ngColoursrepresentMDSclusters
pyrazine
good balance
acidic
varietal character boxwood
fruit
tropical mineral
asparagus
expressive aromatics
reductive
cat pee
citrus floral
herbaceous
bitter
faulty
terroir expression creamy
oxidised unripe
oak
smokey
NZRSL
FSHB
NZAVFB FSFC
FBCLM FSBI
NZRS
FSBAGA
FLCH
FLPC NZSVA
NZLWWH
FBCBB
NZLWB
NZAVV
NZSVCH
-1.5
-1
-0.5
0
0.5
1
-1 -0.5 0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3
F2(2
0,50%)
F1(39,00%)
FRaxesF1etF2:59,50%
Howwerethewinescharacterised?NZFreeSor*ngColoursrepresentMDSclusters
FSHB
FBCBB
NZSVCH FLCH
NZLWB NZLWWH
NZRS NZAVFB NZAVV
FSBI
FSBAGA
FSFC
FLPC
NZRSL
NZSVA
FBCLM
tropical
herbaceous
acidic reductive
pyrazine
boxwood
ripe
aged citrus
faulty
complex
unripe
good balance
simple thin oak
varietal character gooseberry
expressive aromatics
good weight
mineral lack of varietal character
oxidised
grapefruit
lack acidity
-1.5
-1
-0.5
0
0.5
1
-1.5 -1 -0.5 0 0.5 1 1.5 2
F2(1
5,33%)
F1(48,13%)
NZ_axesF1etF2:63,45%
Canmineralbesmelled?
• Bothculturesreportedperceivingmineralityviaeachmodeofpercep*on– i.e.,bysmellaloneandbypalatealone(taste&mouthfeel)
• FrenchtastersreliedmoreontheirnosesthanNZersintheirfull-tas*ngjudgmentsofminerality,NZersrelyingequallyonolfac*on(smelling)andpalatephenomena
So,whichwineafributespredictedperceivedmineralityinSauvignonwine?
Andwastheremuchconsensusacrosscultures?
RegressionofMineralbyotherdescriptors:NoseonlyMul*pleLinearRegression:alpha<0.05
Predictors France
t p Predictors New Zealand
t p
Citrus 5.29 < 0.0001 Citrus 3.78 < 0.001
Passionfruit -4.64 < 0.0001 Passionfruit -3.37 < 0.001
Chalky/calc 6.75 < 0.0001 Chalky/calc 5.94 < 0.0001
Flint/smo 9.75 < 0.0001 Flint/smo 7.23 < 0.0001
Lead/graph 2.62 <.01 Lead/graph 4.51 < 0.0001
Liking 3.10 < 0.01 Liking 3.01 < 0.01
Fresh/zingy 2.51 < 0.05 Concentrat -2.05 < 0.05
Iodi/oyster 2.09 < 0.05
RegressionofMineralbyotherdescriptors:Fulltas*ngMul*pleLinearRegression:alpha<0.05
Predictors France
t p Predictors New Zealand
t p
Citrus 4.22 < 0.0001 Citrus 2.09 < 0.05
Passfruit -2.12 < 0.05 Green -2.42 < 0.05
Bitter 2.08 < 0.05 Bitter 2.34 < 0.05
Chalky/calc 2.05 < 0.05 Chalky/calc 4.51 < 0.0001
Flint/smo 4.61 < 0.0001 Astringent -2.17 < 0.05
Sweet -6.57 < 0.0001 Fresh/zingy 2.20 < 0.05
Lead/graphite 2.81 <.01 Herbaceous 2.23 < 0.05
Liking 1.98 < 0.05 Conc/Wght 2.48 < 0.05
RegressionofMineralbyotherdescriptors:PalateonlyMul*pleLinearRegression:alpha<0.05
Predictors France
t p Predictors New Zealand
t p
Fresh/zingy 5.22 < 0.0001 Fresh/zingy 4.00 < 0.0001
Flint/smo 8.53 < 0.0001 Flint/smo 4.44 < 0.0001
Chalky/calc 6.66 < 0.0001 Chalky/calc 6.93 < 0.0001
Sour/acid -2.26 < 0.05 Sour/acid -2.26 < 0.05
Sweet -4.33 < 0.05 Lead/graph 2.02 < 0.05
Bitter 3.97 < 0.0001
PalateWght 5.37 < 0.0001
StudyonBurgundyChardonnaywithBurgundytasters(Ballesteretal.,2013,AJGWR)
34wineprofessionalsjudged16Burgundywinesonwineafributesincludingminerality&itsassumedsub-components
Ques*onsaskedbythestudy:1. Howdowine‘experts’conceptualiseminerality?Cantheyjudgewinemineralityinaconsensualway?– Bysmellalone?– Onthepalate,withoutthearomas?
2. Whatarethesub-dimensionsofminerality?
Chardonnaystudy:Outcomes• Therewaslifleagreementinjudgmentsof
intensityofmineralcharacterwhentheChardonnaywineswereassessedsensoriallyby:• Noseonly• Palateonly(Nose-clip)
• Moreagreementwhenthe‘experts’wereaskedtodefinemineralitylinguis*cally• Mostcommontermsassociatedwithminerality:
• Stone-relatedterms(e.g.,silex)=21%ofcita*ons• Acidity/freshness=17%ofcita*ons• Sea-shoreterms(iodine;shellfish)=15%
Interpreta*on
• JudgmentsofmineralinSauvignonwinesappeartobebasedondata-driveninput(wineafributes),notjustsmartmarke*ng• Understandingpreciselywhichafributesareimplicatedrequiresfurtherwork
• Muchwithin-cultureandacross-culture(Fr;NZ)consensusastothecharactersdrivingmineraljudgmentsinSauvignonwine– Citrusnotesandfresh/zingycharacter– Flinty,smoky,chalky,calcareous,lead,graphite– Absenceofpassionfruitonnose
Interpreta*oncont.
• Winevarietaldifferencesmayinfluencehowmineralityisperceivedinwine– TheChardonnaydataaremoredifficulttointerpret• Rela*veconsistencyamongstFrenchoenologistsinverbaldescrip*ons
• LifleconsensusamongstthemwhenjudgingsensoriallyintensityofmineralityinBurgundyChardonnays
Thisisunderfurtherinves*ga*on…………
Workinprogress
Aspectsofwinecomposi*onthatunderliepercep*onofmineralcharacter
Acknowledgement
• OurtastersinFrance&NZ• Fundingproviders:
– GrapeandWineResearchProgramme,PFR,NZ– NewZealandWinegrowers– PernodRicardNZ&PernodRicardResearchCentre,Paris,France
– RegionalCouncilofBurgundy– BureauInterprofessionneldesVinsdeBourgogneandConseilInterprofessioneldesVinsdeBordeaux
– RoyalSocietyofNewZealandISATLinkagesFund
And thank you for your attention