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The Faces Of Fall '05

By Elke Von Freudenberg Makeup Artist LOOK I The Ali McGraw Eyebrow Look Here, it’s all about the eyebrows and bone structure. To get the look, you’ll need your eyebrow angle brush,

Frame It Millenium Collection a "1 shade darker than your eyebrows" eye shadow.

Adobe Brow Maker for blondes

Walnut Brow Maker for light browns

Silence Brow Maker for brunettes

Sable Brow Maker for redheads

Darken your eyebrows with shadow, and brush through with a old toothbrush to soften in and make it look more real. To set and keep eye shadow on all day, mist your Frame It Brush with Eyeliner Sealer for more staying power. Then, take your bronzer and dust under cheekbones by the ear, under the back of the jaw and across the eyelids. Add a ton of mascara on top lashes only. To complete the look, add 2 or 3 dramatic sweeps of blackest black mascara.

Absolute Black Lush Lash Mascara Lips are literally no color, just lip balm Or try a closest to your lip color look like Java Lipstick.

LOOK 2 The Red Lip is Back. Yep, you heard right. It's back. It’s red and it’s matte. Think red lip and nothing else, or red lips and dramatic eyes. Either way it's a statement. LIPS: I personally like the richer, matte berry stain reds rather than an orangey red. (Doesn't make teeth look white like a blue red does!) Apply, either as a stain for day, or perfect placement, and matte for night. THE perfect lip color this season?

Classic Red Lipstick EYES: Think smokey, smudgey, in jewel tones or matte. Either or, but not both. Apply your rich shimmery chestnut,bronze

(Jungle Love Eye Shadow is perfect)

or gold (like 18K Gold Eye Shadow applied really lightly) over the entire eyelid and smudge around under the bottom eyelashes. Leave the dark gray, gray or black shadows in the makeup drawer. That's so last year. Take your dark brown like Absolute Brown Eyeliner Pencil (not black, too much) eye pencil and line eyes both top and on the insides of the bottoms. Lashes, dark, top and bottom. Smudge slightly so it's still a line. It's not about smudging out or making the eye bigger. Keep the line thin. Keep cheeks clean on this one. This is perfect for a night out, and can either be classic, or sexy. It's your call!

LOOK 3 Eyeliner Elegance Here it's focus on eyeliner. Think elegant Audrey Hepburn. It’s sweet, pinky blush, soft pink lips, and strong defining eyeliner. EYELINER: The runways may be showing liquid liner, but we all know that's a pain. One mistake, and it's over. Make it easy on yourself. Take a black eyeliner pencil. (Absolute Black Eyeliner). Line your eyes lightly both top and bottom. Then take a long eyeliner brush.

Line It Brush

Take black eye shadow,and mist the brush with your eyeliner sealer. Lightly blend into the eye shadow. Lightly trace over the eye pencil. Just a super thin line. Because you're tracing over pencil, you'll find you have a steadier hand and it just seems easier because you've 'already done it' with the pencil. See? Then, with the brush, place it on the outside of the eye, right where the top lashes meet the bottom lashes. There's this little spot between the two. Place the brush there and sweep out. Make that little flip at the end of the lashes. As you sweep out, lift the brush up away from the face. The line will go from thick to thin. And the placement makes it perfect every time. BLUSH:

Think baby pink. Like Pink Tush Powder Blush. Apples of the cheek.

Take a brush that's exactly the size of your cheeks when you smile. Place the brush tips there. Smile. Too big? Too small? You'll see it right away. You'll need a brush that's just right. Take your brush, tap lightly onto the blush. Tap, tap, tap. Shake the brush. Then, lightly tap, tap, tap onto the cheeks as you smile. Do both cheeks, and then blot the bristles off on a kleenex. Then with the same brush, lightly blend the blush into the skin, and a touch backwards towards the ear. TRICK OF THE TRADE: Afraid you'll do too much? Try this photo trick of mine. Apply your powder blush before your foundation. Do a bit more than you'd like. Then apply your liquid foundation over, with fingers or a foundation brush. It'll cut the color down perfectly and you'll find your blush lasting all day long. Don't forget to powder over.

Shade It Brush LIPS:

Soft Dawn Lipstick Think pink with a touch of tan in it. Lightly apply to lips. Even a soft frost is nice. But remember. No gloss. Sooooo out this fall. Remember: It's matte this season. Think elegant, refined, fresh.

Look 4 The Rich Lip Look. Here, it's all about lips. Rich, jeweled, matte or a matte frost, perfect lip.

Huckleberry Lipstick Prism Lipstick Dakota Lipstick

Clean eyes, mascara, maybe a touch of rosy blush on the apples. But here, the focus is on the lips. Take a shade that's about 5 shades deeper than your normal lip color. Perfect choice.

Shape It Brush Take a flat, round eye shadow brush. One you never use. See this shape above? Perfect. Fill the brush with lipstick and fill in the lip first. Then, trace up to your lip line. Use the top of the bristles to draw your line, not the side. Hold the brush vertically. Then, if needed, take a matching

lip pencil in deep berry stain (Allure Lip Pencil is perfect!) and line the lip AFTER you have done the lipstick. It makes it so much easier. Also, pressed for time? Fill in the lip with lipstick first. Then line the mouth. If you line the mouth first, you'll be lining forever to get it right. But if you have the majority of the lip filled first, it's so much easier to find the line of the mouth. Take a kleenex and 'kiss' the kleenex or press the kleenex straight across the lips. Don't bite it. You blot the inside of the mouth that way, not the lip line which is what bleeds right? You should have a perfect 'kiss' print on your kleenex if you did it right. Very lightly dust loose powder with a large fluffy powder brush. And then with the remainder of what's left on your eyeshadow 'lipstick' brush, go over your lips one more time. Done! Add rich layers of mascara top lashes only. Maybe a warm chestnut color swiped across the crease of the eye. TREND ALERT: Shadows are being concentrated in the crease of the eye now. New look! The smokey across the eyelid look is fading away. Remember, the lips are the star in this look. Perfect for a night time martini date, or a subtle version is perfect for that very professional business presentation. Very elegant. Very rich. http://www.brushesbykaren.com