the immutable allegory of history in the gentle marble ... · the immutable allegory of history in...

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The immutable Allegory of History in the gentle marble profile of "Maria Luisa" greets you in the square. In the Basilica one is immerged in art and music, accompanied by faith, whilst being guided by the layout of a tree-lined avenue which transforms into a vertical momentum of lines and curves. In the courtyards and the frescoed rooms of Salis Palace, one can breathe the patriotism of the Italian Risorgimento in Seventeenth-Century style, where the Garibaldi red inebriates like the ruby and fruity one of the Saloncello. From Door to Door, under the Fifteenth-Century walls, one strolls with Ludovico Sforza and with the military genius of Leonardo da Vinci. One passes from Italy to Switzerland only by changing track. And just like in a fairy-tale, when one boards the Trenino Rosso (Bernina Express), one’s eyes are filled with meadows, woods, turquoise, black and white lakes, which mix up with millenary glaciers. At table, one is served full-bodied red wine and buckwheat pancakes cooked in iron pans and seasoned with melting alp cheese. The only additive here is the healthy country conviviality. This is Tirano. It is referred to as a city not because it is big and noisy, but because history has wanted it to be so, making it a crossroad between the Alps. From north to south, from east to west, it is a crossroad of beauty.

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Page 1: The immutable Allegory of History in the gentle marble ... · The immutable Allegory of History in the gentle marble profile of "Maria Luisa" greets you in the square. In the Basilica

The immutable Allegory of History in the gentle marble profile of "Maria Luisa" greets

you in the square. In the Basilica one is immerged in art and music, accompanied by faith,

whilst being guided by the layout of a tree-lined avenue which transforms into a vertical

momentum of lines and curves. In the courtyards and the frescoed rooms of Salis Palace,

one can breathe the patriotism of the Italian Risorgimento in Seventeenth-Century style,

where the Garibaldi red inebriates like the ruby and fruity one of the Saloncello. From

Door to Door, under the Fifteenth-Century walls, one strolls with Ludovico Sforza and with

the military genius of Leonardo da Vinci. One passes from Italy to Switzerland only by

changing track. And just like in a fairy-tale, when one boards the Trenino Rosso (Bernina

Express), one’s eyes are filled with meadows, woods, turquoise, black and white lakes,

which mix up with millenary glaciers. At table, one is served full-bodied red wine and

buckwheat pancakes cooked in iron pans and seasoned with melting alp cheese. The only

additive here is the healthy country conviviality.

This is Tirano. It is referred to as a city not because it is big and noisy, but because history

has wanted it to be so, making it a crossroad between the Alps. From north to south, from

east to west, it is a crossroad of beauty.

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Welcome to our City.

History, art, culture, traditions, the environment,nature, fine food and wine, are the riches that makeTirano a "city of art", precious and unique in itslocation in the centre of the Alps. Tirano is acrossroad of culture between Italy and Switzerland,where the beauty of the Alpine landscape meets thebeauty of art and history. Since 2008 Tirano hasbeen known a Slow City and, as since 2010 it hasbeen City of Wine, but above all, it is a “point ofarrival and departure” of one of the most fascinatingand admired heritages of the UNESCO: the BerninaExpress. We are very proud of all this and are happyto live it every day. That is why we want to introduceto you our City and live it with you.

We wish you a pleasant stay and we welcome youto Tirano

Welcome to Tirano

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Tirano is a Municipality bordering with the SwissConfederation. Situated at an altitude of 420 m ASL,in the valley, between the river Adda and thePoschiavino torrent, Tirano enjoys a natural strategicposition, in the heart of the Central Alps, betweenItaly and Switzerland. During the centuries it wasa crossroad of considerable importance and it owesits current tourist importance to the territory andhistory. Tirano is 25 Km away from Sondrio, 39Km from Bormio and 55 Km from St. Moritz. Thislocation places it at the crossroads between theRomanesque via Valeriana, today known as theStelvio trunk-road, and the road that links Valtellinawith the Venetian plain (Pianura Veneta), throughthe Passo dell’Aprica. Towards the north, by crossingthe Valle di Poschiavo, the Bernina Pass, theEngadina and the Rezia, departing from Tirano onearrives in Switzerland. A circular hiking trail whichis one of the finest in the entire Alpine region,fascinating for the landscapes, environments andnature, hospitality and relaxation.

Crossroad in the Alps, between Italy and Switzerland

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History has dipped its pen in the territory, fromcentury to century, from page to page, from the firstprimitive nucleus of Tirano, at the feet of MonteMasuccio, to the slope which rises to Roncaiola,This is the case - what today is known as a city,experienced Etruscans, Tirrenians, Gauls andsubsequently the Romans amongst its inhabitants.In particular it owes its present name most probablyto the Romans. The Stele di Tirano and Lovero ofthe ancient bronze age, the Celtic daggers ofPiattamala, the prehistoric cupels above Baruffini,the tholos or “crotti” as shelter for shepherds andsheep which we find on the Rhaetian coast ofMasuccio and in Val Poschiavo, the Romantombstones of Stazzona and the Roman bridge ofVilla di Tirano. These are all evidence of theprehistoric and Roman Tirano. These are pageswhich we can leaf during a walk or during a visitto the Ethnographic Museum of Tirano or theAntiquarium of Besta Palace in Teglio.

The territory writes history

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From door to door, towards the great historicalroutes of the Alps. Charlemagne, during the MiddleAges, had already understood the importance ofTirano and of its routes leading to the great mountainpasses and foothills. A strategic importance whichduring the centuries witnessed in Tirano a successionof all the dominations who wrote the history ofValtellina along with that of Lombardy and theneighbouring alpine regions. People, armies, culturesand regal ambitions have left their imprint andtestimonies. The medieval church of St. Perpetua,the great 15th Century Town-walls commissionedby Ludovico il Moro with its Doors, Bormina,Poschiavina and Milanese - even today, theserepresent an urbanite fulcrum as well as the town’sidentity. However, above all one must mention theSixteenth-Century Basilica della Madonna di Tirano,a votive offering for the Apparition of the BlessedVirgin on 29th September 1504, built between 1504and 1513, just at the end of the French dominionand shortly before the beginning of the Grigionidominion.

From door to door

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From the Grigioni to Austria, passing through France.The 18th Century came to a close under the Frenchflag of the Cisalpine Republic. On the other hand,the 19th Century represented for Tirano a centuryof great history, great men and great public works.The construction of the main road, or rather theroad which will lead Tirano out of the Sforzaperimeter walls to connect with the Sanctuary, datesback to 1815, precisely the day after the Congressof Vienna with which the Valtellina became aLombardy-Venetian territory. Only a few years later,the Imperial road of Passo dello Stelvio guaranteedthe connection with Austria. So much so that, in1838, Ferdinand of Austria passed through Tiranoon his way to Milan for his crowning as King ofthe Lombardy-Venetian Kingdom. This is recalledby means of the statue of the Allegory of Historyof Piazza Cavour, then Piazza d'Armi. The Unityof Italy was at the gates and Tirano played a mainrole for men and ideas. A spirit of the Risorgimentois still in the historical buildings where, after 1848,the Salis, Torelli, Lambertenghi, Visconti Venosta,Merizzi, Della Croce and Pievani noble familiesmade Tirano the centre of the patriotic drifts inValtellina.

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19th Century at work

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The architecture indicates when the border is not alimit. This is also evident from that pleasure forsomething which is beautiful and which the TiranoLiberty proposes with noble charm. At the beginningof the 20th Century, some of the most importantLiberty buildings of Valtellina have been built inPiazza delle Stazioni Ferroviarie, Viale Italia, PiazzaMarinoni and along the Adda Ortigara. The Libertytour departs from the place of arrival, namely fromthe stations. The Italian Railways dating back tothe early 20th century, with the decorations inwrought iron and the wooden pediment, inspiredby the Swiss architecture of chalets, and, preciselyon the same square, the other station, of the RhaetianRailways, dated 1926, represents a very elegantexample of Art Deco Style. Subsequently oneproceeds along the streets of the city. Merizzi Palace,House of the antiquarian Chiodi (now the site of apharmacy), Villa Soncelli (formerly Martinelli),Villa Tognolatti along the riverside, the station ofthe historic Autolinee Perego in Piazza Marinoniand the School Building with Athena’s faceoverlooking the entrance. Athens is the symbol ofwisdom with and has a combing mannerism whichis more Liberty than Hellenic.

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The Liberty elegance

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This is the heart of Tirano - the 16th CenturySanctuary which is a treasure trove of art, history,faith, and at the same time fulcrum of the historicidentity and reputation of Tirano and the entireValtellina. It was built by popular faith after theapparition of the Blessed Virgin to Mario Omodeiin 1504. Writing about this Sanctuary, Paolo Arcari,a writer to whom the civic library of Tirano isdedicated, wrote "it rises victorious in its prodigalityof beauty, in its perfection of wealth, in its fearlessdrop... ". The Sanctuary, which in 1927 was electedby Pope Pius XI to a minor Roman Basilica, hasthree naves in the form of a Latin cross and representsthe most important example of the Renaissance inValtellina. It is a harmony of lines and styles whichas in a great crossroad of art brings together theRomanesque trait of the great bell tower with theRenaissance trait of the structures on the side of theapse, from the body of the sacristy to the 16th

Century dome. And what about the interiors, whereart becomes a baroque exuberance in the richnessof the stuccos and sculptures, but above all in themusicality of the sound, the carvings and the highreliefs of the majestic 17th Century organ.

A treasure trove of art, history and faith

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From the vineyards to the glaciers, a Heritage ofMankind. Tirano is point of departure and arrivalof one of the major UNESCO World Heritages: theBernina Express. This is a wonder which only bythe mention of the name surprises us like childrenexpecting a gift. In fact more than a railway, it is ared fairy-tale on rails which in 2010, celebrated itscentenary birthday. One hundred years of "ups anddowns", crossing the Alps, from the Valtellinavineyards to the glaciers of the Bernina Pass. Andif the years have not left an imprint, the wonderscertainly run on the large windows with panoramicviews of the Bernina Express. A fairy-tale journeywhich keeps passengers literally "glued" to windows,as if they were leafing through a great album withthe crème of the alpine landscape flowing withpleasant slowness, before their eyes.

A Patrimony of Mankind,from the vineyards to the glaciers

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While walking through the old town centre of Tiranoone can breathe art, nobility and culture both insideand outside the walls. A mittel-European atmosphere,which amongst the small streets, small squares andfountains leads to the discovery of the many palaceswhich embellish one of the richest historical centresof the Alps. The Seventeenth-Century Salis Palace,with the noble wine cellars and frescoed halls,House-Museum D'Oro Lambertenghi, MerizziPalace, Marinoni Palace, the ex-convent of theAugustinians which today is the seat of theMunicipality, Praetorian Palace, Mazza House,Andres Palace, Visconti Venosta Palace, ButtafavaPalace, Omodei Palace, Quadrio Curzio Palace,Torelli Palace and Torelli Tower. Furthermore,"outside-the-walls", there are another two palaceswhen one gets to Madonna di Tirano - the Casa delPenitenziere, an elegant 18th Century residencewhich overlooks Piazza Basilica, nowadays the seatof the Ethnographic Museum of Tirano and Homodei– Marinoni small Palace, nobly hidden in thegreenery of its garden and in the streets that leadback to the historic centre.

A treasure of Palaces and gardens

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Tirano is a concert of churches. A harmoniousagreement between architecture and landscape,between history and faith, which in Tirano, as inthe entire Valtellina, becomes on its own, a reasonto visit and amaze oneself. A musicality of styles,from the medieval charm of Santa Perpetua, to theRomanesque bell tower of the Collegiata di SanMartino with its baroque style interior, to thepreciousness of small churches, often linked to thehistorical Palaces or overlooking streets and squares,to conclude in the great symphony of Sixteenth-Century lines and vaults of the Sanctuary. Then, ifyou want to let nature embrace art, all you have todo is ascend to Baruffini and Roncaiola, reachingsmall hamlet churches where, as the poet DavidMaria Turoldo wrote " ... the meadows, vineyardsand fields seem to wind up around as vast courtyards... ".

A concert of churches

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They are like terraces overlooking Valtellina.Cologna, Baruffini and Roncaiola, the three districtsof Tirano, look at their city from the top. Immersedin the apple orchards as Cologna, on the orobic side,towards Sernio and Lovero or caressed by the sunamong orchards and vineyards as Baruffini andRoncaiola perched on the Rhaetian side of MountMasuccio. During the last century, they were thelast inhabited beaten tracks by the smugglers beforecrossing secretly the Swiss border, "via mountain".They are accessible both by car or on foot or bymountain bike. They overlook the vineyards andTirano, as natural terraces on the Media Valtellinaand Val Poschiavo.

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The terraces of the districts

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In the wine cradle. Tirano is lulled by vineyardsthroughout the whole of the Rhaetian side. Theheroic terracing of Valtellina are monuments to toiland labour, castled in regular geometry on the sunnyRhaetian side. A heritage of rural culture, which isa candidate for inclusion, just like the BerninaExpress, as one of the world sites on the UnescoWorld Heritage List. The great Valtellina wineswhich are appreciated all over the world are bornhere. The doors of some of the most famous andappreciated Wine Cellars of Valtellina are openbetween Tirano, Villa, and Bianzone, in just a few,but "tasty" kilometres. A path between wine andhistory which like many other things here, knowsno boundaries, not even the one between Italy andSwitzerland. The “Valtellina” barrels directed to theNorthern European markets, transit by along theBernina, on a donkey’s back in bygone times andnow almost exclusively on rail. This is the reasonwhy Tirano is the City of Wine.

Where the Alps meet the vineyards

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The “good and near” is a perfectly normal experiencein Tirano. From taste to taste, from producer toproducer, the territory offers a "blow-out" of flavours.In addition to the wine, which can be tasted and isavailable directly from the famous cellars of Tirano,Villa and Bianzone, one must not forget the otherpride to taste, the famous Valtellina apples, availabledirectly for sale from the innumerable smallproducers, from Tirano to Teglio, from Sernio toLovero. And what should one say about the honeyand jams, all of which strictly genuine? Howeverthe dish which on its own together with thepizzoccheri, for centuries manages the hospitalityand livens up this conviviality is the Chisciöl.Traditional pancakes with a basis of buckwheat andcheese, served crispy with the fresh company of afinely cut chicory salad. Tirano proudly dedicatesannually to the Chisciöl a feast, where taste becomeshospitality as only cuisine can do.

Taste at O Km

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From the hotel to the trail, from the train to the trail.There aren’t many cities where nature is at thedoorstep. The position of Tirano, barycentric betweenthe Bassa and the Alta Valtellina, between the Swissvalleys of Val Poschiavo and Engadina, Valcamonicaand the foothills of the valleys of Brescia, offers tothe trekking lovers, a network of trails, historicroads and fascinating hikes, through landscapes,environments, history and emotions. These can betreaded during all the seasons of the year. TheSentiero Unesco, which from Tirano, on thesmugglers’ tracks, leads to Thusis in the heart ofthe Canton Grigioni, feels like crossing thelandscapes painted by Giovanni Segantini. TheSentiero Valtellina, a large pedestrian and cycle ringwhich runs along the flow of the Adda, amongorchards and small villages and allows one to travelsafely on foot a good part of the Valtellina, awayfrom the arteries of automotive traffic. Then "fromthe train to the trail". The whole route followed bythe Rhaetian Railway, intersects with a thousandopportunities for hiking trails, excursions and simplewalks, between a station and the other. There isnothing else to do except to put on the boots andleave.

From the hotelto the trail,from the trainto the trail

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The bicycle is one of the pleasures that makes ofTirano a Slow City, and is the right companion fora visit of the city and of its squares. If then fromTirano one wants to depart with the aim ofdiscovering the Valtellina and Val Poschiavo, thereis an absolute vast and diversified choice of cyclepaths, depending on the typology of trails, slopesand journey times. From the most peaceful andrelaxing family cycling tourism, to mountain bikingon trails, to the more challenging cycling, perhapsclimbing from Tirano towards the Bernina Pass ortowards the famous Passo del Mortirolo. And thatis not the end of it. Thanks also to the bike transferpossibilities offered by the Rhaetian Railways,towards Switzerland, and by the Italian Railwaystowards Sondrio on the Sentiero Valtellina one canenjoy a plain network of tracks and bicycle trailsor pedestrian cycle paths where the flow of the AddaRiver is the guide, among apple orchards and smallhubs.

Cycling among the apple orchards,vineyards and valleys

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In fact, it is a summer mountain pasture, but it isalso a plateau. The Alpe di Trivigno is not far awayfrom Tirano. One gets there either by car, ascendingfrom Stazzona, and passing through the district ofMotta and subsequently through Aprica. Otherwise,again by car or better still on a mountain bike,ascending directly from Tirano, after crossing theapple orchards of Cologna to subsequently get tothe other "mountain" of Tirano, the Alpe Canali andthen from here back to Trivigno. Any one of thetwo tracks available consents an immersion in naturewhich here is protected due to its uniqueness. Forestsof fir trees, pines, larch and lawn carpets with fewhouses and small villas now discreetly concealedby nature. During the descent towards the Aprica,one should not miss a visit the Natural Reserve ofPian di Gembro, one of the best preserved peat bogsof Europe.

A green paradise

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Tirano is a Slow City and therefore has the tasteand pleasure of living. For this reason, each year,it offers a rich calendar of shows and events. Mostof these events, such as the traditional Gabinat withthe merry mayhem of children on the eve of theEpiphany, constitute the precious legacy of a traditionwhich has its roots well set in the history of the cityand its community. Others, such as Tiranotte, theWhite Night which during mid-August "animates"the streets and the squares of the city or the Autumnin Tiranese, a food and wine cultural festival, which"animates" a season rich in flavours and traditionsfor this land situated in the midst of the vineyardsand the apple orchards- these events have becomeamongst the mostly awaited appointments in thecalendar of tourist cultural events of Valtellina. Apleasure to live which is enriched every year withexhibitions, festivals, cultural events and of a townentertainment, always new and rich in "delicious"surprises. Because being "slow" gives life to thecity, granting it all the time that it deserves.

The pleasure of living the city life

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In Tirano, art and hospitality have ancient roots.From the first medieval pilgrims who, during theirjourney to pass through the Alps, used to find“ospitium" in the so called "Xenodochi" of SantaPerpetua and of San Romerio, to the merchants whomade the alpine passes, between north and south,their paths of commerce, Tirano has always openedthe doors of its hospitality and even more of itstable. A tradition of hospitality which today translatesitself into welcoming and refined Hotels, familyBed and Breakfasts and farmhouses, to which oneadds restaurants, wine bars, pizzerias and bars. Allsharing one characteristic namely taste and goodnessof an offer of food and wine which distinguishesitself in the Alpine area.

Hospitality at the top

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Getting to know Tirano and its surroundings...

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The prehistoric findings,located within theboundaries of theterritory of Tirano andpresently preserved inthe Antiquarium of BestaPalace in Teglio, are notnumerous but importantand they testify thepresence of man in thearea already in veryancient times. The nameof the village is probablyof Roman origins, but isattested in documentsonly from the XI Century.Having established itselfas a free Municipality inthe XII Century, it wassubjected to theCapitanei, Lords ofStazzona. In 1335, withthe Visconti domain onValtellina, Tiranoassumed the principalrole of the districtbecoming the chief townof the Terziere Superioreand prethorium centre.In 1487, after a firstmilitary incursion of theGrigioni in Valtellina,Ludovico il Moro orderedthe construction of thewalls and the castle ofSanta Maria. Themiraculous apparition ofthe Virgin Mary to theBlessed Mario Omodeidates to 29th September1504 and he

transformed Tirano intoan important pilgrimagedestination and led tothe construction, on themiracle site, of theSanctuary, nowadays stillthe most importantplace of worship of thevalley. Thanks to Tirano’sgeographic strategicposition, the PiazzaBasilica and thesurrounding area startedhosting the mostimportant fair of theAlpine region. Thisacquired supra-regionalimportance callingtraders from all thesurrounding valleys, fromSwitzerland to the Tyrol,from Lombardy to theRepublic of Venice. Aprotestant communitywas founded in Tiranoduring the SixteenthCentury. The bloodyrevolt against theProtestants and theGrigioni known as asacred slaughterhousestarted off from the cityon 19th July 1620. Thisepisode opened up along period of wars forValtellina. In 1797, Tiranosaw the establishment ofa "Patriotic Society"among the most activeof the valley, to reclaimthe separation from the

Grigioni and adhesion tothe Cisalpine Republic.During the subsequentAustrian dominion,Tirano distinguisheditself for the liveliness ofits political commitmentby personalities like LuigiTorelli, Ulisse Salis,Giovanni and EmilioVisconti Venosta. Duringthe First World WarTirano was the seat of animportant barracknamed after the patriotLuigi Torelli, and thishoused the 5th AlpineRegiment. During April1945, the barrackshoused a battalion ofFrench militia of thecollaborationistgovernment of Vichysent by the Germans. On28th April 1945 thebattalion surrendered tothe partisans of the 1st

Alpine Division and theAnglo-American allies.

Historicalhighlights

EthnographicMuseum of Tirano

The museum is housedin the EighteenthCentury “Casa delPenitenziere",overlooking the historicsquare of the Santuariodella Madonna di Tirano.The collectionsdocument the life andtraditional activities ofpeasants and artisans ofthe valley, through theobjects and somereconstructions of theenvironment. Theexhibition also includessome important piecesfrom the nearby Basilica,amongst which thesplendid sacredvestments donated byCardinal Richelieu in1636.

Opening HoursJune/September: fromTuesday to Sunday 10.00-12.00 a.m.; 03.30 -06.30p.m.October/May: Saturday10.00 -12.00 a.m.; 02.30- 05.30 p.m.Visits outside openingtimes to be booked

Piazza Basilica, 30Tel. /Fax 0342 701 [email protected]

Civic Exhibitions Hall- Foppoli Palace

Foppoli Palace is anelegant SixteenthCentury building. Theportal and the internalcourtyard are typical ofthe period with anexternal corridor onstone ledges, in additionto the hall on the groundfloor, called FireplaceHall or Sala Del Camino.During the EighteenthCentury, the propertypassed on to the Chiesadella Beata Vergine diTirano, and the groundfloor was used as atavern (there remains thetypical opening in theshape of an inverted Lon the front towards theriver). Subsequently itpassed to the Foppolifamily, of which it stillretains the name. TheFoppoli family assignedthe property to aninstitution in favour ofthe emigrants of thearea. It is presentlyowned by theMunicipality of Tiranoand is the seat of thecivic exhibitions hall.

P.tta Maurizio Quadrio

House-Museumd’Oro Lambertenghi

Probably built in theFifteenth Century by theLazzaroni family andsubsequently enlarged,the palace changedownership several timesup to the acquisition, in1881, by notary GiuseppeLambertenghi. Thepalace which is stillinhabited by thedescendants is now alsoa house-museum and itis open to visitors withits charming ambience,the rich furnishings andthe artistic collectionsthat over the years, theowners collected.

Via Ligari, 7Tel. 0342 710262Mobile: 388 [email protected]

Öffnungszeitenvon 10/05 bis 10/10Donnerstag-Freitag-Samstag10.00-12.30 14.00-16.00von 11/10 bis 09/05Am ersten Montag desMonats10.00-12.30 14.00-16.00Führungen jede halbeStunde

Salis Museum

The palace of Tirano isthe most important ofthe Valtellina homes thatbelonged to thepowerful Swiss Salisfamily, still owned by thedirect descendants.Originated at thebeginning of the 1600from 2 historicresidences of the 6thCentury, the historicpalace is open to thepublic in its museumcircuit of 10 beautifullyfrescoed halls, furnishedwith furniture of theperiod, original paintingsand decorated withimportant documents ofthe history of the Salisfamily and of Valtellina

Via Salis, 3Tel. 340 [email protected]

Opening HoursFrom April to end ofOctoberFrom Monday to Saturday10.30-11.30-12.30From Thursday to SaturdayEven 14.40 and 15.30From 11/11 to 01/04Visits upon prior bookingMinimum 4 persons.

MuseumsPalaces PublicLibrary Museum

Civic Library "Paolo e Paola Maria Arcari"

Opening hoursFrom Tuesday to Saturday: 9.00 -12.00 a.m.; 02.00-06.00 p.m. - Summer time (from mid-June to mid-September): Monday: 02.00 -06.30 p.m.;From Tuesday to Friday: 9.00 -12.00 a.m.; 02.00 -06.30 p.m.

Piazza Pievani, 1Tel. 0342 702 572www.comune.tirano.so. it/bibl [email protected]

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ROUTEPiazza Stazioni, Viale Italia, PiazzaMarinoni, Piazzetta Quadrio, PortaPoschiavina, Piazza Cavour, Via San Carlo,Via Albonico, Via Ligari, Piazzetta Salis,Porta Bormina, Via Visconti Venosta,Via XX Settembre, Piazza San Martino,Via Torelli

Starting from Piazzadelle Stazioni, havingreached Piazza Marinoniand from here PiazzettaQuadrio, before alightingthe iron bridge, on theleft is the Sixteenth-Century Foppoli Palace[1], seat of the civicexhibitions. Havingcrossed the bridge, oneget in the ancient village,once surrounded by wallsconstructed by Ludovicoil Moro in 1487. Onegoes beyond the PortaPoschiavina [2], the bestpreserved of the threecity Gates which exist,with frescoes dating tothe Sixteenth Century.The Pretorio Palace [3]is joined to the Gate. It

was an ancient seat ofthe Grigioni Podestà; ofrelevant importance hereare the large portal andfrescoed coats in thehallway. Further on isPiazza Cavour, withMarinoni Palace [4]overlooking it. Thispalace which nowadaysis the Town Hall was anancient convent of theAugustinians (from theXV-XVII Century). Worthnoting is the internalportal, formerly a cloisterof the convent, thecourtyard and theSixteenth Century portalon the south side.Attached to the buildingis the church of S. Nicolada Tolentino. Situated

in the centre of piazzaCavour is a fountainwith a statuesymbolizing History,nicknamed by the peopleof Tirano La Maria Luisa.Returning to PortaPoschiavina, one takesVia San Carlo, turningto the left into ViaAlbonico andimmediately afterwardsin Via Ligari, where onefinds the Sixteenth-Century Venosta Palacenow Mazza [5]. Ofrelevance are theexternal courtyard, theaccessing portico and the"Stüa" on the main floor.Nearby in the street, isLazzaroni Palace nowD’Oro Lambertenghi [6],which overlooks thenorth side of Piazza Salis.The internal rooms retainvaluable fixtures andfittings. The palace isnowadays a house-museum open to thepublic by appointment.Further on is PiazzettaSalis. Salis Palace [7]overlooks Piazzetta Salis.It is the most importantof the Valtellinamansions belonging tothe powerful family ofthe Salis. Built between1630 and 1690, SalisPalace develops on astructure which

represents a late-Sixteenth Century stylefaçade, flanked by twotowers, with a centralBaroque portal built onthe design by Vignola.Access to the palace isthrough the frescoedcourt manor (Corte dellameridiana) after whichone goes up theimposing staircase.Situated on the mainfloor are the mostprestigious halls, theSalone delle feste andIl Saloncello withceilings beautifullyfrescoed in theEighteenth Century.Worth mentioning arethe cellars and theicehouse. The Palace isthe seat of a historicalmuseum on the nobleSalis family and Tirano.Back to via San Carlo oneenters the alley of PortaBormina [8] and turnsto the right on ViaVisconti Venosta, alongwhich is the Venosta-Andres Palace nowGiacomoni [9], the mostbeautiful SixteenthCentury palace of thecity. The façade isestimable, with contoursand stringcourse in greenstone and the lunettes.On the other side of theroad is the Cappella

Gentilizia dei Venosta.Further on along thesame road is theEighteenth-CenturyVisconti Venosta Palace[10], which belonged tothe Visconti Venosta ofGrosio. Its baroque accessportal and the staircaseare imposing. ButtafavaPalace [11], ofrenaissance originfollows next along theroad. It belonged to theVenosta family andsubsequently passed toother families. It boastsof beautiful railings, anelegant entrance hallwith graffitodecorations, a widestaircase and a large roofgarden. Not far away isthe late Eighteenth-Century Omodei Palacenow Pradella- Noli [12],with numerous latebaroque examples, inparticular the internalcourtyard enclosed by anelevated walkway andwith a colonnade, withthe two palace buildingsoverlooking it. MerizziPalace [13] is situatedin the beginning of viaVisconti Venosta. It wasrenovated between theseventeenth and earlyEighteenth Century, byuniting two pre-existingSixteenth Century small

palaces. Its facades facethe internal courtyard,and windows are framedby elegant stuccodecorations. Thecourtyard has porticosand loggias bearing thecoats of arms of thewomen who married theMerizzi. Taking via XXSettembre, in front ofthe Parish Church, isVenosta Palace nowQuadrio Curzio [14]. Ithas been renovatedduring the EighteenthCentury with the presententrance and theoverlying loggia, thecourtyard with a porticoand the doors enclosedin stone and stuccoestowering over them.Across Piazza SanMartino, following viaTorelli, is Torelli Palace[15] articulated arounda courtyard – it is aBaroque portal with anoverlying elegantbalcony. On the facade,now barely visible, is afresco by Antonio Caimiin remembrance of thevisit by San CarloBorromeo to theSanctuary of Tirano in1580. The building wasinhabited by thestatesman Luigi Torelli(1810-1887). Torre

Palaces andhistoric centre

FERROVIARETICA

FERROVIEDELLO STATO

Fiume Adda

Fiume Adda

Fiume Adda

Via Dei Pensini

ViaSanta

Maria

Canali

Volpera

Strad

aC

omunale

Noghere

ViaTrivigno

Via Luigi Bracchi

PortaMilanese

Via PortaMilanese

ViaLom

bM

artiri Liberta’

ViaBesta Via Rusca

Via

A. P

ergo

la

ViaPisa

niPiazza

ParraviciniLudovico

Il Moro

LeonardoD

aVinci

Via

DellaRepubblica

V i aX x

S e t t e m b re PiazzaSan

Martino

PiazzaLantieri

PiazzaCavour

Via Bellotti

Ambrosini

Via

Tore

lli

Via Lavizzari

VicoloDon

Angelini

Vi a

St e

l vi o

S.S. Dello Stelvio (N. 38)S.S. Dello Stelvio (N. 38)

Via Nicola Lucini

Stra

da R

usa

Via SignoroloOmedei

ViaCaim

i

ViaSalis

CapoDi Terra

Via

Don

egan

i

ViaVisc

onti Veno

sta

Via Ligari

ViaAlbonico

ViaSan

Carlo

ViaSan Carlo

AlleMura Porta

Bormina

Galleria

Strada

Vicina

leRot

ta

Via Don Carlo Braga

Strada Vicinale Cava

VialeDei Capuccini

Via

Ido

Pedr

otti

Via

Via Angelo Andres

Piazzi Via Cevedale

Via

Mas

succ

io

Viale Giuseppe Garibaldi

ViaMarc

oni

ViaPio

Rajna

V i a l eI t a l i a

Dei Benefattori

Via

Maz

zini

Via

Man

zoni

V i a R o m aPiazzaDella

Stazione

Sot

top

assa

ggio

StazioneAutobus

Stazione Fs

Sta

zio

neR

hb

PiazzaMarinoni

PiazzaleCredaro

Via Serottini

ViaMaurizio

Quadrio

LargoCastelli

PiazzaPievaniVia

Bertac

chi Via

San

Gi acom

o

Carm

inati

L.goRisorgim

entoDam

iani

ViaPao

loArca

ri

De l l ’ ag r i co l t u r a

V i a C a l c a g n o

Via

Cam

agni

LungoAdda

IvNove

mbre

LungoAdda

IvNove

mbre

LungoAdda

VAlpini

LungoAdda

VAlpini

Via Simone Cabasso

ViaM

erizzi

ViaS

ant’agostino

LargoPretorio

1

2

3

4

5 67

8

910

1112

13

14

15

16

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The route starts from thecentral Piazza Marinoni,reachable from Piazzadella Stazione, followingViale Italia. On the rightof Piazza Marinoni is thestation of the roadtransport companyPerego. The stationrepresents a combinationof late architecturalhistoricism and Art-Deco. Extending on theopposite side of are thepublic gardens with theMonument to the fallen.Viale Garibaldi startsbehind the monument,where one finds theSchool Building, built in1908, in Liberty style.Walking along ViaQuadrio, one gets toPiazzetta Quadrio, on theleft of which is anelevated green spacewith, at the centre, thesculpture of Mario Negri,Stele delle Migranti [1],dedicated to theemigrants of Valtellinaand Valchiavenna. Therustic building thathouses the Public Library“Paolo e Paola MariaArcari” [2] overlooks thegreen area. Beyond thestone arch, next to theentrance to the library,is the small square of theCasa Grana later PievaniArcari [3], with the

adjacent Chiesetta di SanGiacomo, deconsecratedduring the First WorldWar, and site of the civiclibrary until 1994.Alongside the buildingalong via Arcari one canstop at the internalgarden with a vagueromantic taste, fromwhich one can admirethe small Romanesquebell tower. Walking alongvia San Giacomo towardsthe Adda one gets toPiazzetta MaurizioQuadrio, dominated byFoppoli Palace [4], anelegant SixteenthCentury building typicalof the period with theportal and the internalcourtyard with theexternal corridor onstone corbels, in additionto the hall on the groundfloor, called the FireplaceHall or Sala del Camino.During the EighteenthCentury, after passing tothe Chiesa della BeataVergine di Tirano, theground floor was usedas a tavern (thereremains the typicalopening in the shape ofan inverted L on thefront towards the river).Subsequently it passedto the Foppoli family, ofwhich it still retains thename. The Foppoli family

assigned the property toan institution in favourof the emigrants of thearea. It is presentlyowned by theMunicipality of Tiranoand is the seat of thecivic exhibitions hall.Leaving behind Foppolipalace, on the left, alongthe River Adda, is anunwinding pedestrianand bicycle trail withfitness trail, along which,not far away, one canstop at the Parchetto deiGelsi [5]. Proceedingalong the pedestrian andbicycle path, in fact onewalks along the SentieroValtellina in the directionof Sernio, Lovero andGrosio. Instead, if onewants to return towardPiazza Marinoni, one canwalk along the longembankment towardsthe valley and turn lefton to LargoRisorgimento, thusreaching the startingpoint of the route. Theitinerary in the Centreoutside the City Walls isconnected from thesame Marinoni Squareto the other historicalroutes to discover of thecity.

ROUTE

Piazza Marinoni

Viale Garibaldi

Via Quadrio

Piazzetta Pievani

Via San Giacomo

Piazzetta Quadrio

Via Quadrio

Piazza Marinoni

The Centreoutsidethe City Walls

FERROVIARETICA

FERROVIEDELLO STATO

Fiume Adda

Fiume Adda

ViaSanta

M

Strad

aC

omunal

ViaTrivigno

Vi L i i B hi PortaMilanese

Martiri Liberta’

ViaBesta Via Rusca

Via

A. P

ergo

la

ViaPisa

niPiazza

ParraviciniLudovico

Il Moro

LeonardoD

a

Via

DellaRepubblica

V i aX x

S e t t e m b rePiazza

SanMartino

PiazzaLantieri

PiazzaCavour

Via Bellotti Ambrosini

Via

Tore

lli

Via Lavizzari

VicoloDon

Angelini

Vi a

St e

l vi o

S.S. Dello Stelvio (N. 38)S.S. Dello Stelvio (N. 38)

Via Nicola Lucini

Via SignoroloOmedei

D

ViaCaim

i

ViaSalis

CapoDi Terra

Via

Don

egan

i

ViaVisc

onti Veno

sta

Via Ligari

Via AlbonicoVia

SanCarl

o

ViaSan Carlo

AlleMura Porta

Bormina

Galleria

Strada

Vicina

leRot

ta

Via Don Carlo Braga

Strada Vicinale Cavada Di

VialeDei Capuccini

Via

Ido

Pedro

tti

Via

VisoliVia Costantino Reghenzani

Via Angelo Andres

Piazzi Via Cevedale

Via

Mas

succ

io

Viale Giuseppe Garibaldi

ViaMarc

oni

ViaPio

Rajna

V i a l eI t a l i a

Dei Benefattori

Via

Maz

zini

Via

Man

zoni

V i a R o m aPiazzaDella

Stazione

Sot

top

assa

ggio

StazioneAutobus

Stazione Fs

Sta

zio

neR

hb

PiazzaMarinoni

Via

Sant

Via

Via

Gav

azze

n

S.C

. Vec

chia

Tira

Via Fontanino

PiazzaleCredaro

Via Serottini

ViaMau

rizio Quadrio

LargoCastelli

PiazzaPievaniVia

Bertac

chi

ViaS

anG

i acomo

Carm

inati

Risorgimento

Damiani

ViaPao

loArca

ri

’ a g r i co l t u r a

V i a C a l c a g n o

LungoAdda

IvNove

mbre

LungoAdda

VAlpini

LungoAdda

VAlpini

Via Simone Cabasso

ViaM

erizzi

ViaS

ant’agostino

LargoPretorio

12

3

4

5

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Starting from PiazzaCavour and crossing thecentral streets of theHistorical Centre, onegets to Via Torelli. Fromhere, after crossing theTrunk Road, oneproceeds towards themunicipal StradaCastello to get toCastello di Santa Maria[1], known asCastellaccio. Havingbeen an essentialelement of the defensivesystem of the village, itwas built together withthe defensive walls byLudovico il Moro. Theaim was that ofdefending Valtellinafrom the possibleinvasions of the Grigioni.The name "Santa Maria"was given because theold church bearing thesame name and theadjoining hospital,dating back at least tothe XII Century weredemolished andincorporated in castlewalls. The fortificationof Tirano enjoyed moreof a civic importancerather than a militaryone, with the exceptionof isolated episodes inthe second decade of theSixteenth andSeventeenth Centuries,and this affected in

particular the urbandevelopment of the cityup to the beginning ofthe Nineteenth Century.The ruins of the castleand the tower haverecently been restoredby the Municipality ofTirano. Going back alongvia Santa Maria, onetakes via Porta Milanese[2] to get to the city gatebearing the same nameand which formerlyconsented the passagetowards Milan.Proceeding further onvia Pergola one gets toPiazza Parravicini,dominated bySeventeenth-CenturyParravicini Palace [3],opposite which is afountain with anoctagonal pool and theChiesettadell’Addolorata [4]. FromPiazza Parravicini,following the road onthe right and thenreturning along the river,having crossed Via dellaRepubblica, from Via XXSettembre one gets toPiazza Cavour. At thispoint, the route can beintegrated both with theroute aimed at thediscovery of theHistorical Centre and thePalaces, and with the

ROUTE

Piazza Cavour

Via XX Settembre

Piazza S. Martino

Via Torelli

Strada Comunale Castello

Via Santa Maria

Porta Milanese

Via Pergola

Piazza Parravicini

Piazza Cavour

Towardsthe Old Castle

broader route whichtouches the variousChurches of the city.When one embarks onthe discovery of theCastles and theArchitectures of theMountain Communityof Tirano, a furthersuggestion is that offollowing the samethematic itinerary thatconnects the varioushistorical sites ofrelevant in theMunicipalities of Sernio,Lovero, Tovo, Mazzo,Grosotto and Grosio.

FERROVIARETICA

FERROVIEDELLO STATO

Fiume Adda

Fiume Adda

Strad

a

Via Dosso

Strada Com

unale Del Luf

ViaDei

Ca

stel

l i

Vi a

Ap

r i co

Via

Ai C

asta

gnet

i

Via Dei Pensini

ViaSanta

Maria

Canali

Volpera

Strad

aC

omunale

Noghere

ViaTrivigno

Via Luigi Bracchi

Via PortaMilanese

Via PortaMilanese

ViaLom

bardia

Martiri Liberta’

ViaBesta Via Rusca

Via

A. P

ergo

la

ViaPisa

niPiazza

ParraviciniLudovico

Il Moro

LeonardoD

aVinci

Via

DellaRepubblica

V i aX x

S e t t e m b rePiazza

SanMartino

PiazzaLantieri

PiazzaCavour

Via Bellotti Ambrosini

Via

Tore

lli

Via Lavizzari

VicoloDon

Angelini

Vi a

St e

l vi o

S.S. Dello Stelvio (N. 38)S.S. Dello Stelvio (N. 38)

Via Nicola Lucini

Stra

da R

usa

Via SignoroloOmedei

ViaCaim

i

ViaSalis

CapoDi Terra

Via

Don

egan

i

ViaVisc

onti Veno

sta

Via Ligari

Via Albonico

ViaSan

Carlo

mina

Galleria

Via Don Carlo Braga

Strada Vicinale Cavada D

Via

ViaM

oR

ajna

V i a l eI t a l i a

Dei Benefattori

Via

Maz

zini

Via

Man

zoni

V i a R o m aPiazzaDella

Stazione

Sot

top

assa

ggio

StazioneAutobus

Stazione Fs

Sta

zio

neR

hb

PiazzaMarinoni Via

Mauriz

io Quadrio

o

Carm

inati

Risorgimento

Damiani

e l l ’ ag r i co l t u r a

V i a C a l c a g n o

agni

LungoAdda

IvNove

mbre

LungoAdda

IvNove

mbre

LungoAdda

VAlpini

LungoAdda

VAlpini

Via Simone Cabasso

ViaM

erizzi

ViaS

ant’agostino

LargoPretorio

1

2

3

4

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The beginning of theTwentieth Centurybetween the railwaystation, Viale Italia,Piazza Marinoni and thealong Adda Ortigara,saw the construction ofsome of the mostimportant Libertybuildings of Valtellina.The building of theStazione Ferroviaria(1908-1909) [1],designed by engineerPiccioli and by architectRamponi overlooks thePiazzale della Stazione.While respecting thetypical rules of a publicedifice, it presents someoriginalities that can befound in the rectangularhipped roof surmountedby a wrought irondecorative crest, in thewooden gable, arecollection of the Swissarchitecture of chalets,in the decorative motifpresent in the upper partof the frame of thewindows of the firstfloor, and in Art Decodecoration of the pilasterstrips. On the samesquare is the Stazionedelle Ferrovie Retiche[2], designed between1926 and 1927 by aSwiss architect on behalfof the Bernina Railway.It represents a very

and the stone parapet,surmounted by the faceof an Athena, symbol ofwisdom, from whichthere departs a ‘lash’hairstyle which istypically Liberty.Returning towards theRiver Adda andproceeding to the bank,turning right towardsViale Italia, is CasaClementi now Moretta[7] (approx. 1910), andthe masterpiece ofarchitect Ramponi, theformer Villa Martinelli(1908), now Soncelli [8],most accomplished andmature expression ofLiberty architecture inValtellina. Leavingbehind Viale Italia,strolling along theembankment and takingthe pedestrian trail, onecan see Villa Tognolatti[9], of which one notesthe detail of the circularwindow on the facade.

ROUTE

Piazza Stazione

Viale Italia

Piazza Marinoni

Viale Garibaldi

Lungo Adda Ortigara

TiranoLiberty

elegant example of ArtDeco and pre-rationaliststyle, with reminiscencesof the historicarchitecture in thecolumns that articulatethe three-light window.The slate roof confers anAlpine tone to theconstruction. CasaMerizzi [3] is situated atthe intersection withViale Italia. It is one ofthe first Liberty buildingsof Tirano and wascommissioned in 1902by Girolamo Merizzi toarchitect Ugo Zanchetta,while still a student atthe Brera. The buildingis in the Venetian neo-gothic style, originallyassociated with themountain architecturetypologies evident in thetop arc. The Alpinecharacter of the buildingis evident in the cornerbow window supportedby two logs which comeout from the wall of thebuilding. Continuingalong Viale Italia towardsthe Piazza Marinoni, onthe right side of the road,is the Casadell’antiquario Chiodi[4] (today the site of apharmacy).Commissioned in 1924by Francesco Chiodi, thegreatest Valtellinese

antiquarian of theTwentieth Century, thisbuilding is a smallconcentrate ofarchitectonic and neo-renaissance decorativemotifs. The facadereflects the eclectic andhistoricist taste of theclient. At the end of theroad, on PiazzaMarinoni, is StazionePerego [5], designed in1926 by the architect ofBormio ClementinoClementi, who built allof the stations of theroad transport companyPerego using differentstylistic forms. Thestation of Tirano is theone with the greatestscenic effect and perhapshis most important work,together with villa Peloniin Bormio. The facade isa combination of latearchitectonic historicismand Art-Deco. Across thesquare and the gardensis Viale Garibaldi;proceeding to the left isSchool Building [6], theseat of the primaryschool. Designed in 1908by architect GiuseppeRamponi, it has a doubletwin façade system, witha long side facing theroad. In the two entranceporches one can note thedecorations of the arches

FERROVIARETICA

FERROVIEDELLO STATO

BUS

BUS

Fi

a

Fiume Adda

ViaSanta

Maria

Canali

Volpera

Strad

aC

omunale

Noghere

ViaTrivigno

Via Luigi Bracchi Via PortaMilanese

Martiri Liberta’

ViaBesta Via Rusca

Via

A. P

ergo

la

ViaPisa

niPiazza

ParraviciniLudovico

Il Moro

LeonardoD

aVinci

Via

DellaRepubblica

V i aX x

S e t t e m b rePiazza

SanMartino

PiazzaLantieri

PiazzaCavour

Via Bellotti Ambrosini

Via

Tore

lli

Via Lavizzari

VicoloDon

Angelini

Vi a

St e

l vi o

S.S. Dello Stelvio (N. 38)S.S

ViaCaim

i

ViaSalis

CapoDi Terra

Via

Don

egan

i

ViaVisc

onti Veno

sta

Via Ligari

Via Albonico

ViaSan

Carlo

ViaSan Carlo

AlleMura Porta

Bormina

Galleria

S

ccini

Via Monte Padrio

VialeDei Capuccini

Via

Ido

Pedro

tti

Via

VisoliVia Costantino Reghenzani

Via Angelo Andres

Piazzi Via Cevedale

Via

Mas

succ

io

Viale Giuseppe Garibaldi

ViaMarc

oni

ViaPio

Rajna

V i a l eI t a l i a

Dei Benefattori

Via

Maz

zini

Via

Man

zoni

V i a R o m aPiazzaDella

Stazione

Sot

top

assa

ggio

StazioneAutobus

Stazione Fs

Sta

zio

neR

hb

PiazzaMarinoni

V

S.C

. V

Via Fontanino

PiazzaleCredaro

Via Serottini

LargoCastelli

PiazzaPievaniVia

Bertac

chi Via

San

Gi acom

o

Carm

inati

Risorgimento

Damiani

ViaPao

loArca

ri

zzaunita’alia

V i a l eDe l l ’ a

g r i co l t u r a

V i a C a l c a g n o

Via

Cat

tane

o

Via

Cam

agni

S. R

omedio

ddaIv

Novembre

LungoAdda

IvNove

mbre

LungoAdda

VAlpini

LungoAdda

VAlpini

Via Simone Cabasso

ViaM

erizzi

ViaS

ant’agostino

LargoPretorio

Via Maurizio Quadrio

1

2

3 4

5

6

7

8

9

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From Piazzetta Quadrio,beyond the stone archbeside the entrance tothe library, is the squareof Casa Grana laterPievani Arcari, with theadjacent Chiesetta diSan Giacomo [1],deconsecrated duringthe First World War, witha Fourteenth CenturyRomanesque bell towerand a portal dated 1731.On the way back toPiazzetta Quadrio andbeyond PortaPoschiavina one gets toPiazza Cavour.Overlooking PiazzaCavour is MarinoniPalace, an ancientconvent of theAugustinians present inTirano between the XV-XVII Century. Attachedto the building is theChurch dedicated to SanNicola da Tolentino [2],also known as theChurch of Santa Teresaor Sant’Agostino.Proceeding on Via XXSettembre one gets tothe Chiesa parrocchialedi San Martino [3],dedicated to the patronsaint of the city, built inthe XIII Century, butextensively remodelledin the SeventeenthCentury. The Churchconserves the bell tower

in Romanesque Lombardstyle of 1479.Considerably importantis the organ built in 1852by the Serassi Brothers.On the south side onenotes a sundial dated1674, while the parishhouse is impressive forthe copper triptychdated 1958 of RenzoAntamati. After takingVia Caimi one turns inVia Salis where,connected to theimportant Salis Palace,is the Chiesetta baroccadedicated to S. CarloBorromeo [4] whichmerits a visit. This is thefirst church of theValtellina area dedicatedto this saint. Proceedingalong Via S. Carlo andPorta Bormina one turnsright to Via ViscontiVenosta. In front of theSixteenth-CenturyVenosta-Andres Palacenow Giacomoni, on theother side of the road, isthe Chiesetta dell’Angelo Custode [5] (XVcentury), a family chapelof the Venosta family.Following the roads ofthe historic centre, fromVia Torelli one proceedsto Porta Milanese andfrom here one deviatesthrough Via dellaPergola. Side by side the

Seventeenth-CenturyParravicini Palace inPiazza Parravicini, are afountain, with anoctagonal pond and theChiesettadell’Addolorata [6](1664). Having left thehistorical centre onegoes back to PiazzaMarinoni and on VialeItalia, is the BasilicaDella Madonna di Tirano[7] (see description inthe next page). Liftingone’s gaze to the righton top, one notes theancient Chiesetta di S.Perpetua [8] (X Century),built by a community ofmonks, perhaps the orderof the Umiliati, to whomwe owe during theMiddle Ages, a large partthe organization of theagrarian set-up in thearea. The medievalfrescoes discovered in1987 were brought tolight and restored in theapse of the church. Theyare some of the mostancient wall paintings ofthe province. Not faraway, towards Via Rasicaand towardsValposchiavo one canreach the Chiesa di S.Rocco [9] dated 1526,with an octagonal base.Giangiacomo de Medicicalled the Medeghino

(brother of the futurepope Pius IV, Archpriestof Mazzo) ordered theconstruction of anoctagonal fortressagainst the Grigionimasked as a temple. In1531 the deception wasdiscovered but thepeople of Tiranocompleted the temple.Beautiful portal dated'700 and a wooden altar-piece with statue of thesaint.

IN THE DISTRICTS:

Cologna (610mt):Chiesa SS. Trinità (1537)Consecrated by theBishop of Coira;

Roncaiola (790mt):Chiesa dei Santi Stefanoe Lucia;

Baruffini (800mt):Chiesa di S. PietroMartire (1536).

Trivigno (1700mt):Chiesa di S. GaetanoConstructed in 1701 withthe contribution ofCount Ulisse Salis.

ROUTE

Piazzetta Quadrio

Piazzetta Pievani

Piazza Cavour

Via XX Settembre

Via Caimi

Via Salis

Via San Carlo

Porta Bormina

Via Visconti Venosta

Via Torelli

Porta Milanese

Via Pergola

Piazza Parravicini

Piazza Marinoni

Viale Italia

Piazza Basilica

Via Rasica

Via San Rocco

The Churches

FERR

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FERROVIA RETICA

FERROVIA RETICA

FERROVIE DELLO S

TATO

FERROVIE DELLO STATO

BUS

CAMPER

BUS

BUS

BUS

Fiume Adda

Fiume Adda

Fiume Adda

Via Rasica

Bernina

oStelvio (N

. 38)

V i a V a l o r s a

ViaSan

Rocco

Via San Rocco

Via San Rocco

Via Era

Santa

Perp

etua

Via Elvezia

Via Ras

ica

V i a P o s c h i av o

Via Monaci

Via

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Basilica V i a l e I t a l i a

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PiazzaA La

Giustizia

Strad

Via Dosso

Strada Com

unale Del Luf

ViaDei

Ca

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Via

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asta

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Via Dei Pensini

ViaSanta

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Canali

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Strad

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ViaTrivigno

Via Luigi Bracchi

Via PortaMilanese

Via PortaMilanese

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Via

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Via Bellotti Ambrosini

Via

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Via Lavizzari

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S.S. Dello Stelvio (N. 38)S.S. Dello St

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Via Sig

ViaCaim

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ViaSalis

CapoDi Terra

Via

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ViaVisc

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Via Ligari

Via Albonico

ViaSan

Carlo

ViaSan Carlo

AlleMura Porta

Bormina

Galleria

Strada

Vicina

le

V

S . S . D e l l o S t e l v i o ( N . 3 8 )

V i aS a n

G i u s e p p e

Via Carbonera

Via Vecchio Mulino

ViaRod

ari

Via

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Via Erminio Juvalta

Viale Dei Cappuccini

Via Monte Padrio

VialeDei Capuccini

Via

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tti

Via

VisoliVia Costantino Reghenzani

Via Angelo Andres

Piazzi Via Cevedale

Via

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Viale Giuseppe GaribaldiVia

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Via Fontanino

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Via Serottini

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FERROVIA RETICA

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CAMPER

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Fiume Adda

Fiume Adda

Fiume Adda

Via Rasica

Bernina

oStelvio (N

. 38)

V i a V a l o r s a

ViaSan

Rocco

Via San Rocco

Via San Rocco

Via Era

Santa

Perp

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Via Elvezia

Via Ras

ica

V i a P o s c h i av o

Via Monaci

Via

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neVia Balgera

Piazza

Basilica V i a l e I t a l i a

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Via Dei Pensini

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Via Luigi Bracchi

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ViaPisa

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PiazzaLantieri

PiazzaCavour

Via Bellotti Ambrosini

Via

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lli

Via Lavizzari

VicoloDon

Angelini

Vi a

St e

l vi o

S.S. Dello Stelvio (N. 38)S.S. Dello St

Stra

da R

usa

Via Sig

ViaCaim

i

ViaSalis

CapoDi Terra

Via

Don

egan

i

ViaVisc

onti Veno

sta

Via Ligari

Via Albonico

ViaSan

Carlo

ViaSan Carlo

AlleMura Porta

Bormina

Galleria

Strada

Vicina

le

V

S . S . D e l l o S t e l v i o ( N . 3 8 )

V i aS a n

G i u s e p p e

Via Carbonera

Via Vecchio Mulino

ViaRod

ari

Via

Giu

ssan

i

Via Erminio Juvalta

Viale Dei Cappuccini

Via Monte Padrio

VialeDei Capuccini

Via

Ido

Pedro

tti

Via

VisoliVia Costantino Reghenzani

Via Angelo Andres

Piazzi Via Cevedale

Via

Mas

succ

io

Viale Giuseppe GaribaldiVia

Marconi

ViaPio

Rajna

V i a l eI t a l i a

Dei Benefattori

Via

Maz

zini

Via

Man

zoni

V i a R o m aPiazzaDella

Stazione

Sot

top

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Stazione Fs

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Tira

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fini

Via Fontanino

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Via Serottini

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rizio Quadrio

LargoCastelli

PiazzaPievaniVia

Bertac

chi Via

San

Gi acom

o

Carm

inati

Risorgimento

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Via le Del l ’ industr ia

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Via

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LungoAdda

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LungoAdda

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1

23

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5

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78

9

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The Basilica is the mostimportant monument ofthe province from thereligious, historical,artistic point of view andis also a place ofcollective identificationfor the people ofValtellina. It was erectedby popular faith afterthe apparition of theBlessed Virgin to MarioOmodei (1504). Theprevailing renaissancecharacteristics of thetemple, whose buildersare deeded to be theRodari brothers of Como,harmonise perfectly withthe lines of Romanesqueinspiration of the belfry[1] (1578) at the top ofwhich is an elegantbaroque marblestructure with balustrade(1641). The façade [2]very slender is completedby a high gable. It has,at the base a beautifulportal and two largemarble windows [3]finely worked, by theTicinese A. Della Scala(1533). Also importantare the side portals [4],perhaps by BernardinoRodari (1506). Even thecomplex of structures onthe side of the apse areof considerablearchitectural harmony:the building of thesacristy [5], the domeof Pompeo Bianchi

(1584), and the belltower on which one canget a glimpse of thegraffiti, probably madeby the Grosino painterCipriano Valorsa. Theinterior of the temple isrich in works of art andstuccoes. Among these,the most evident one isthe great baroqueseventeenth centuryorgan [6] several timesreferred to as a nationalrarity for the wealth ofengravings of its case.However, even thepulpit, the choir loft,the high altar, the choir[7], the canvases and theinteresting popularfresco on one side ofthe aisle on the left, arealso very important. Inparticular, this fresco isthe first dedicated to theApparition. The point ofthe Church subject tospecific devotion of thefaithful is constituted bythe Altar of theApparition [8] (thedominating statue wasdone by G. Del Majno ofPavia). Behind it,protected by a grate isthe place indicated bythe Seer where Maryappeared. In Piazza delSantuario the set-upwhich the buildingsconstructed for the sakeof the temple haveconferred to it still

predominates: theancient "Hostariagranda" del S. Michele[9], built immediatelyafter the apparition tohost the pilgrims andwhich now hosts a socialwork entity, and theseries of “fondaci”, smallshops functional to therenowned fairs of goodsand livestock, which tookplace there and theprogression of which wasthe decisive factor foralmost three centuriesfor the economy of theentire valley. Anyoneleaving the templethrough the main doorwill be able to observein the left corner the twostone pillars stillequipped with the hingesof the door that onceclosed the entrance tothe square towards west;in front the elegantpavilion fountain [10]concluded by Longhi (theauthor of the altar ofOur Lady) in 1780. Onthe left side of theSquare, while looking atthe facade of theSanctuary, we find theCasa Del Penitenzierenow EthnographicMuseum of Tirano [11].

The Basilica

6

7

8

5

4

3

2

1

2

2

2

3

4

9

10

11

12

1) Torre Campanaria1) Belfry2) Façade3) Main Portal4) Lateral Portals5) New Sacristy6) Organ7) Apse8) Chapel of Our Lady9) Hostaria Granda

of S. Michele10) Pavilion Fountain11) Casa del Penitenziere - Ethnographic Museum

of Tirano12) Sacristy of the

beginning of the Sixteenth Century andbase of the belfry

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From Tiranoto St. Moritz, on theroad with the noseglued to the window

The railway tale of theBernina Express departsfrom Tirano (429 metersabove sea level). LeavingValtellina, the BerninaExpress caresses in itsfirst curve the SixteenthCentury Basilica dellaMadonna di Tirano, andfrom here it starts itsascent, from one surpriseto another, between thechestnut trees, leavingbehind the vineyards ofthe great Valtellinawines, which are also rednot by coincidence. Onedoesn’t even have thetime to feel truly on theroad that, just likechildren, one remainsimmediately enchantedwhen the train seems tobe chasing itself on theexposed helical viaductof Brusio - one of themany engineering works,certainly the mostphotographed, such tobecame a symbolicimage of the brandUNESCO World HeritageSite. Such an incredibleemotion which leads youto believe that you aresitting in a small trainmodel, just like plenty ofLilliputians. The BerninaExpress proceeds and

ascends up to Poschiavo,the capital of this valley,Val Poschiavina,linguistically andculturally linked forcenturies with Valtellina,after having brushedagainst the cobalt greenlake bearing the samename. After leavingPoschiavo the train startsits true ascent until itreaches the 2253 metresof the station of OspizioBernina. A railwayascent, passing from onebridge to another, fromone tunnel to another,from one curve toanother, from theplateau of Cavaglia, withits Geological Park“Giardino dei Ghiacciai”,to arrive then to the AlpGrüm station,panoramicallyoverlooking the glacierof Palù. After leaving theBernina Pass, the smalltrain starts its descent,brushing against theLago Bianco and the LejNair (Black Lake), whichmark the watershedbetween the Po riverbasin and the Rhine riverbasin, from hereaccompanying theirwaters to the Black Sea.It is difficult to watch allthat is beyond thewindows, especially inwinter, when just here –while crossing the

Bernina Pass – theBernina Express runswith its fantasticslowness between snowwalls and white bouldersfading gradually in theblue of the sky or in thewhiteness of the snowwhich the wind lifts up.And when you think thatyou got used to surprises,after having left thedeparture stations of thetwo cable-cars of Lagalpand Diavolezza, the firsttrue encounter with theowner of your small trainawaits you: the Bernina.You will see it, while withyour eyes you will ascendthe large glacier ofMorteratsch, as you stopin the small station inthe woods bearing thesame name. Do notworry if at timesgrumpily, due to acompletely regalconfidentiality, you willnot be able to notice“the great Bernina”because it will becovered with clouds.However its court ofglaciers and summits willalways be there, only foryour eyes. By now, thetrip of the centennial isabout to end, afterhaving arrived inEngadina. First stop isPontresina, and fromhere finally, after the lasttwirling in the woods

and after 2,5 hours ofwonders from the smallwindow, here we are inSt. Moritz. A walk by thelake, a chocolate fromHanselman and above alla visit to the SegantiniMuseum and then, witha simple change of rail,your fairy-tale trip cancontinue, departing toThusis through theAlbula Pass.

The BerninaExpress(Trenino Rosso)

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A land of greatValtellina Wines

From Tirano toBianzone, both of themCities of Wine, passingthrough Villa di Tirano,one goes through oneof the most beautifulenological tours ofLombardy. By car or bybicycle, brushing by thefamous grapevineterracings of theRhaetian side, there aremany wine cellarsassociated with theConsorzio Tutela ViniValtellina, whichwelcome the visitors fora visit to their historiccellars, to taste thefamous DOC and DOCGwines of Valtellina andfor a “tasty” purchaseto take home upon theirreturn from the trip toTirano and theMunicipalities of itsCommercial District.

For informationConsorzio Vini Valtellinawww.consorziovinivaltellina.com

The goodness of theagricultural and foodproducts

A visit to the variousshops and commercialoutlets is enough to getto know and appreciate“all the tastes” of thelocal food products andfine food and winewhich the territory ofTirano and the borderingterritories can offer. Inthis way one canpurchase the best of thetypical produce ofValtellina. Otherwise onecan just plan a tasty visitdirectly to the variousagricultural producers.Not to be missed are thevarious food and wineevents which, on theirown, are worth a staywith the aim of enjoyingthe true tastes of themountain and of theterritory of Tirano.

For information on theproducers:Distretto Agroalimentaredi Qualità della Valtellinawww.valtellinachegusto.eu

Taste

Mainenogastronomicevents in Tiranoand surroundings

May - TiranoOpen CellarsLast weekend of May

July - TeglioPizzoccheri Feast

August - TiranoFestival of Chisciöi

August - TiranoTiranotte

September - SernioChisciöi Feast

September - TiranoTirano in Autumn

From September toNovember - TeglioPizzocchero D'Oroand Tastes of AutumnFestival in thepartnering restaurants

October - Villa di TiranoApple and GrapesFestival

Info on the calendarof events:

Tourist InformationOfficeTel. 0342 [email protected]

Tourist ConsortiumTerziere SuperioreTel. 0342 705 [email protected]

Page 30: The immutable Allegory of History in the gentle marble ... · The immutable Allegory of History in the gentle marble profile of "Maria Luisa" greets you in the square. In the Basilica

The Valtellina Path

The Valtellina Path is acycle and pedestrianroute of over 90 kmwhich, running parallelto the course of theAdda River passesthrough a good part ofthe Valtellina. It ispracticable from Colicoto Grosio. Stretches thattravel across Tirano:

From Tirano towardsGrosio, with departurefrom the Lungo AddaOrtigara towards theEast.From Tirano towardsSondrio, with departurefrom the right bank ofPoschiavino, towards theWest.

Information on thewhole route:www.valtellina.it

Itineraries formountain bikes inthe surroundings ofTirano

Val Belviso Departurefrom TresendaAprica-Santa Cristina-Pian di Gembro-TrivignoDeparture from ApricaPasso della Foppa-Passodi Guspessa Departurefrom GrosioFrom Madonna diTirano to Scala and toLughina Departure fromTiranoFrom Tirano to LagoSchiazzera Departurefrom TiranoAnello della Val GrosinaOccidentale Departurefrom Bivio for Presacce-Western Val GrosinaPoschiavo-Albertuesc-Canal Departure fromPoschiavo (CH)Miralago-Poschiavo-San Romerio-VianoDeparture from Miralago(CH)

Information and detailedroutes:www.sentieri.cmtirano.so.itwww.altarezia.eu

Itineraries for roadcycling

From Tirano, lovers ofroad cycling canprogramme differentpaths.Towards Switzerland, ValPoschiavo and theBernina Pass;following the roadnetwork axis of theTrunk Road 38 of theStelvio, or ascending thefamous Passo delMortirolo.Towards Valcamonicathrough the Passodell’Aprica

Information on thedetailed routes and roadlayouts:www.valtellina.it

Itinerariesfor Cyclists

Page 31: The immutable Allegory of History in the gentle marble ... · The immutable Allegory of History in the gentle marble profile of "Maria Luisa" greets you in the square. In the Basilica

The UNESCO track

It is a hiking path whichfrom Thusis reachesTirano, connectingSwitzerland with Italy.Running along it is thetrack of the RhaetianRailway, which has beendeclared UNESCO WorldHeritage. Subdivided into10 daily stages, italternates between pathsto trails which arepracticable also in trainand passes throughunique and spectacularAlpine landscapes, fromthe valley of Albula toVal Bever, from the AltaEngadina to St. Moritz,from the Bernina Pass,to Val Poschiavo, therebyending in Tirano inValtellina.

Information:Tourist ConsortiumTerziere Superiore diTiranowww.valtellinaturismo.comFerrovie Retichewww.rhb.ch

The Alpine Road

The Via Alpina is a greattrail that crosses the Alps,from Trieste toMontecarlo. EvenValtellina, from theStelvio Mountain Pass toValchiavenna, as well asthe neighbouring Swissterritory of the Cantonedei Grigioni, are crossedby 14 stages of the ViaAlpina. Two of these, theR75 and R76 pass on theterritory of Tirano

STAGE - R75 RifugioSchiazzera - TiranoSTAGE - R76 TiranoPoschiavoDetailed description ofVia Alpina in Valtellina:www.via-alpina.org

Valtellina pathThis excursionistmountain path is dividedin eight stages andfollows the path of the“somieri” or wine carrierswho used to carry thewine of Valtellina fromTirano to Schruns(Austria) through theBernina Pass.www.viavaltellina.ch

Ring road pathof BaruffiniIt is a panoramic hikingroad, long in thedevelopment, but with acontained drop. Itdeparts from Baruffiniand unwinds, reachingthe quarters upstream ofthe fraction andconnects the countlesstracks that carve thesteep walls of theMasuccio, from theexcavated roads to thetrails and the militarymule tracks, offering asignificant route ingeographical,ethnographical, historicaland naturalistic terms inthis mountain range thatis not to be rememberedexclusively forsmuggling.

Smuggling trailAn excursionist pathsurrounded by natureand history following thesteps of the smugglersor “spalloni” who passedthrough here towardsthe neighbouringSwitzerland loaded withcigarettes, sugar andcoffee.

The Path of the SunIt is a hiking path which,passing through theterritory of Tirano, windsalong the Rhaetian bank

of Valtellina, fromMontagna in Valtellinato Grosotto. The "Path ofthe Sun" follows the oldpeasants’ paths, thecobblestone mule tracks,the transhumance paths,which connectabandoned villages withothers which areinhabited all year round,churches and castles. Itis practicable, snowpermitting, practically allyear round.

From Tirano: two roadsof the path of the Sun.Toward the west,directed to Dalico aboveCastionetto di Chiuro.Toward the East, in thedirection of Grosotto.

Thematic TracksCastles andarchitectures of theMountain Communityof TiranoRoute: Grosio, Lovero,Grosotto, Tovo, Sernio,Vervio and Mazzo.At the discovery of thetastes and the perfumesof the Terziere SuperioreRoute: Villa di Tirano,Bianzone, Teglio, Chiuro,Ponte in Valtellina.

Information:Tourist ConsortiumTerziere Superiore diTiranowww.valtellinaturismo.com

Excursionsand tracks

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Natural Reserve ofPian di Gembro(Villa di Tirano)

The peat bog of Pian diGembro is a PartialBotany Natural Reservesituated in theMunicipality of Villa diTirano between Apricaand Trivigno. The originof the peat bog datesback to the lastglaciations, about tenthousand years ago,when a strip of theglacier of the Adda Riverstreamed toward that ofOglio river, modelling thebasin of Pian di Gembro,then occupied by a lakethat over the years hasbeen invaded byvegetable debris. Theacidity of the soil andthe lack of oxygen haveslowed down theprocesses ofdecomposition of theplant material thusencouraging theformation of a layer ofpeat. The vegetation ofPian di Gembro has somerare species, typical ofthe post glacial periods.

Route: from Tirano toTrivigno and thenproceed in the directionof ApricaOpening hours: Alwaysopen to the publicInformation:www.cmtirano.it

Naturalistic AreaLe Piane(Sernio)

The naturalistic area islocated on the shores ofthe artificial lake ofSernio-Lovero. Thenaturalistic trails,arranged byLegambiente, incollaboration with A2Aspa (the owner of theland and of thehydroelectric plant), haveled to change theperception of that place,making it an interestingnaturalistic area. Thepath starts from theenvironment of the drywood, in contact withthe sunny side, andproceeds on the shores.

Route:Tirano – From the LungoAdda Ortigara oneproceeds on foot or bybicycle towards themountain by taking thepedestrian and cycletrackIn the vicinity of the areathere is Casanatura diLegambiente, availablefor stays.Information andbookings: CircoloLegambiente ValtellinaCell. 339 [email protected]

Nature

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