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76 ı JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2009 76 ı JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2009 FOOD THE MADIDI HEIST Standing on his own two feet: Chef Jason Jones is taking Madidi’s menu items to new heights.

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76 ı JANUARY/FEBRUARY 200976 ı JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2009

FOOD

THE MADIDIHEIST

Standing on his own two feet: Chef Jason Jonesis taking Madidi’s menu items to new heights.

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Jason Jones was literally in the carheaded back to the East Coast after a severalyear stint in California when he learned thatMadidi was looking for a new chef. “I heardwhat Bill [Luckett] and Morgan [Freeman]were doing for the Delta and decided to

explore the possibilities,” says Jones, of hisdetour to Mississippi. “After visiting, I reallyliked the restaurant, the people and theopportunity to do something good for thearea.”

How Jones landed by happenstance inthe Mississippi Delta is a unique tale andhis philosophy on cooking is just asinteresting.

Jones is bringing to Clarksdale the newnationwide trend of the food world—eating foods that are seasonal and grownlocally.

Raised in Charlottesville, Virginia, Jonesspent much of his youth on the farm of hisNorth Carolina relatives. “I spent a lot oftime with my grandmother,” Jonesexplains. “All her food was not onlydelicious but fresh from the farm. They hadpig pens, chicken coops and even orchards.I learned to cook what is in season and whatis grown around you.” This introduction togood old-fashioned Southern food left alasting impression on Jones.

After attending the renowned NewEngland Culinary Institute, Jones spentmany years working in NorthernCalifornia. “I did a lot of experimenting outthere,” recounts Jones. “There isunbelievable produce and seafood availablein Northern California. I learned that untilyou have been exposed to new ingredients,you don’t know to seek them out.” Thanksto that experience, visitors to Madidi will beable to have a taste of some of the Delta’sbest culinary offerings. New to the area,Jones has made it a priority to find what israised and grown in the region. So far onthe new menu are local pecans, grits and

“I had never beento Mississippibefore in my life.”

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BRAISED BEEF SHORT RIBS Chef Jason Jones, Madidi

4 (8-ounce) bone-in beef short ribs1 tablespoon vegetable oil3/4 teaspoon fine kosher salt1/2 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper4 medium carrots, diced2 medium ribs celery, diced1 medium onion, diced10 garlic cloves, finely chopped1 pint pureed plum tomatoes1 1/2 cups dry red wine4 cups brown veal stock

(can be ordered online)8 sprigs fresh thyme and rosemary1 dried bay leaf

Pat ribs dry with paper towels andsprinkle with salt and pepper. In a widebraising pot or heavy bottomed saucepan,sauté ribs in vegetable oil on medium-highheat until golden brown all over. Removeribs from pot and set aside.

Sauté celery, carrots and onions untilvegetables become brown and caramelized.Add garlic and sauté for one additionalminute. Add pureed plum tomatoes, redwine and veal stock to pan. Bring to boiland scrape bottom of pan with woodenspoon to free flavored bits that have cookedonto pan.

Return short ribs to pan and add herbsand bay leaf. Cover braising pan with tight-fitting lid and add to 250-degree oven forabout four hours or until meat is very

tender. Remove ribs from pan and coverloosely with foil.

Meanwhile, strain cooking liquidthrough a fine mesh strainer. Reserve liquidand discard solids. Return liquid tosaucepan and reduce until glossy and youachieve a desired sauce consistency. Ribscan be served at this time or reserved incooking liquid for use at a later time.

Chef ’s note: Serve short ribs over risotto,soft polenta or mashed potatoes with a nicewinter vegetable such as roasted asparagusor sautéed brussels sprout leaves. Sprinklegremolata on short ribs just before serving.(Gremolata is a combination of mincedgarlic, lemon zest and finely choppedparsley.) Serves four.

From Madidi’s new winter menu:braised beef short ribs over risotto.

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Slow roasted beet salad with hydroponic bibblettuce, goat cheese, pickled red onions, orange,candied pecans with a roasted shallotvinaigrette.

Buttermilk fried quail served withbuttermilk mashed potatoes, slow cookedSouthern greens and clover honey.

quail, and Jones hopes to add more localfoods.

“My goal is to make well-prepared,straight forward and honest dishes,” Jonesexplains when asked about Madidi’s newmenu. “My menu expresses where I havebeen. There are big Southern influenceswith an occasional nod to Asian and Frenchcuisines.” He also adds that his menu willchange seasonally to showcase ingredientswhen they are at their best.

Dishes like Buttermilk Fried Quail withSlow Cooked Southern Greens andMashed Potatoes reflect both his youth andCalifornia experiences. “My grandmothertaught me how to make the best friedchicken. But since fried chicken is not a finedining dish, I used the same technique withquail,” Jones explains. As a nod to hisCalifornia days, this local dish (the quail isfrom a farm in Lucedale) is finished off witha truffled clover honey.

Also new on the winter menu is a tenderBraised Short Rib served over a Creamy

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Wild Mushroom Risotto. A perfectexample of his cooking philosophy, this is asimple yet perfectly executed dish withsublime flavors. “One of my favorite dishesis the Grilled Chicken Liver Salad,” addsJones. Not your common greasy friedchicken livers, this delicious twist on aniconic Southern staple is wonderful servedover tender baby spinach and garnishedwith a smoked tomato mustard seeddressing.

For dessert, be sure to save room forJason’s decadent Banana Pudding. Not yourtraditional pudding, this dessert is more like

a banana crème brulee, caramelized on top,and a crunchy vanilla wafer crust on thebottom—definitely worth the calories.

It is worth noting that everything fromMadidi’s kitchen is now made from scratch.From the candied pecans on his salads tohis sauces that garnish his entrees to thecornbread on the table, everything is madefresh in his kitchen. “The only thing in myfreezer is ice cream,” Jones quips.

On his arrival, Jones admits he waspleasantly surprised to discover the greatstaff that already exists at Madidi. “Ithought I would have to bring a team infrom out of town,” Jones recounts, “but mysous chef Carl Jackson and my staff aregreat. Without these guys I am nothing.”

In addition to turning out great meals,Jones is also committed to seeing hiskitchen staff excel. “Being a chef in myworld is about creating a team in thekitchen and teaching my staff dishes thatthey can not only learn to execute, but cantake ownership of,” adds Jones.

With his emphasis on freshness,seasonality and locally grown ingredients,Jones will keep Madidi, now in its eighthyear, on the culinary map. DM

See www.madidires.com for seasonalmenu selections. Call (662) 627-7770 forreservations.

“My grandmothertaught me how to make the best friedchicken. I used thesame technique with quail.”

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