the natural & handmade soap book: 20 delightful and delicate soap recipes for bath, kids and...
TRANSCRIPT
Contents
Introduction
Soap-MakingEssentials
Ingredients
Techniques
LuxuriousLathers
MessyPlay
NaturalLiving
CuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap
DecoratingandPackagingSoap
Troubleshooting
AdvancedTechniques
Suppliers
Resources
AbouttheAuthor
Acknowledgments
Copyright
Introduction
ForaslongasIcanrememberIhavebeenfascinatedwithmakingmyownnaturalproducts.Myearlyforaysintoperfumeryconsistedofacollectionofrosepetalsfrommygrandfather’srosebedsquirrelledaway,andmixedwithwaterinanoldjamjaronasunnyday.Thesewerenotsuccessful,butenabledmetowhileawayafewhoursinthesunshineasachild!
Myearlyinspirationwasamarvellousbookofmymother’sentitledTheNaturalBeautyBookbyClareMaxwell-Hudson.WithinitIfoundrecipesforskincreams,lipbalmsandfacemasks;allmadeusingingredientsfoundinthekitchenorgarden.IstillhavethatbookandIliketothinkthatitstartedmeonthepathtomycareerandawayoflifethatIlovetosharewithothers.
AlthoughImadecreamsandlotionsforyears,itwasonlynineyearsagothatIdiscoveredsoapmakingthroughanotherbookgiventomebyafriend.Traditionalcoldprocesssoapisafarcryfromthefactory-madesoapsthatIrememberasachild,andonceIstartedmakingmyownIknewtherewasnogoingback.
TheHistoryofSoapSoaphasalongandfascinatinghistory,andcertainlyinEuropetheCeltswereknowntouseasubstancemadefromanimalfatsandplantashesforbathingandwashing.TheRomansoriginallyusedsoapmadefromgoattallowandwoodashesandthereisevidenceofanentiresoapfactoryundertheruinsofPompeii,completewithfinishedbars.SoaphasbeenmadeinEuropesincethe13thcentury,andthecountrieswithaccesstooliveoilwereabletoproducesuperior
century,andthecountrieswithaccesstooliveoilwereabletoproducesuperiorsoapforpersonalbathing.NorthernFranceandEnglandonlyhadaccesstoanimaltallowandthisproducedaninferiorbar,mainlyusedforlaundryandtextilecleaning.
Soapwasoriginallyusedforpersonalbathing,laundryandallotherwashinguntil1916,whentheFirstWorldWarledtoashortageoffatsthatinspiredtheproductionofthefirstdetergents.Detergentshavenowreplacedsoapinalllaundryandcleaningproducts,andmanybodycareproductsaremadefromdetergentsratherthansoap.Nowadaysthereareshelvesandshelvesofshowergels,bodywashesandhandcleansers,andverylittleinthewayofsoapsoldinsupermarkets.
WhatisSoap?Soapismadebycombiningoilswithsodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)–ifyouknowyourschoolbiology:acidsandbases–tomakeahardproductthatcleanseswithapHofabout8.5.Thereactionthattakesplacewhenoilsandsodiumhydroxidearecombinedinwaterataparticulartemperatureiscalledsaponification,andthisiswhatproducestheendproduct.Aharshalkalicombinedwithoilsmakesamildandcreamylatheringproductthatisgentleontheskinandhasnoneofthecausticcatalystleft.
Intermsofhowsoapworks,whenwaterisaddedtoitandagitateditmakesalather,whichsuspendsdirtinitandallowsittobewashedaway.Therearemanypeoplewhofeelthathandsoapisunhygienicbecauseofthis,andtherehasrecentlybeenahugeshifttowardshandpumpdetergentsoapswithantibacterialproductsadded.Sadlythesearecontributingtotheproblemofantibiotic-resistantbugsandarenotanymorehygienic.Dirtyhandsstillhavetotouchthepumpinthesamewaythattheydothesoap,exceptallthedirtisleftonthepumpratherthanwashedawaywiththesoap.
Initsmostbasicform,soapisacombinationofsimpleingredients:onceyouhavemasteredthebasicsthereisavastpotentialtochangethetexture,colour,shapeandfragrancetomakeyourownpersonalizedproductsthatare
colour,shapeandfragrancetomakeyourownpersonalizedproductsthataresuitableforavarietyofuses.
WhyMakeSoap?IstartedsoapmakingbecauseIwasbecomingincreasinglysensitivetodetergentsandcommercialcleaningandbodycareproducts.Evencommercially-madesoaplacksglycerine,whichisanaturalby-productoftheprocessandenablessoaptosootheandcleanwithoutirritation.Glycerineisextractedincommercialsoapmakingandsoldseparatelyforuseincoughmedicinesandhomeremedies.Traditionalcoldprocesssoapmakingretainsthismarvellousingredient,andthisisoneofthemanyreasonswhyIloveit.
AboutThisBookThisbookaimstogiveyouathoroughgroundinginthebasicandessentialtechniquesthatareneededtomakeareallygoodbarofsoap.Eachprojectbuildsonprevioustechniquesandallowsyoutolearnatapacethatconsolidatesyourknowledge.Inadditiontoold-fashionedsoap-makingtechniques,youwillalsolearnaboutmeltandpoursoap,whichisaquickandsafemethodofsoapmakingwithouttheuseofcausticchemicals,andisbrilliantforchildrentolearn.
Thebookisdividedintothreesections.LuxuriousLatherswillintroduceyoutoawidevarietyofirresistiblesoapsforeveryoccasion,madebycombiningbasicsoaprecipeswithexcitingbotanicals,fragrancesandcolours.MessyPlayprovidesarangeoffunsoapproductstomakewithchildren,togetthemstartedonthepathofnaturalproductmaking.Whilesoapisprimarilyusedforwashingthebody,ithasaplethoraofotherusesaroundthehome,andNaturalLivingexploresthewaysthatyoucanuseupyoursoapscrapswithothernaturalingredientstomakeyourowncleaningproducts,dishwashertablets,washingpowderandmore.
Onceyouhavemadeyoursoapyouwillwanttoshowitofftoitsbest
Onceyouhavemadeyoursoapyouwillwanttoshowitofftoitsbestadvantage,andfinallyyouwillfindideasforhowtopackageandwrapyourhomemadeitemsforgiftsortosell.Onceyouhavemasteredthebasics,thereareplentyoftoptipsontroubleshootingandadvancedtechniquestoinspireyou.
Ihopethatyouenjoythisbookanditwillbringyouasmuchjoyassoapmakinghasbroughttomeovertheyears.
Soap-MakingEssentials
Soapmakingisverymuchlikecookingandyoumayalreadyhavemostoftheequipmentyouwillneedlyingaroundthehouse.Onceyoustartusingsomethingforsoapmaking,keepitjustforthattoavoidtransferofchemicalsandessentialsoilstoyourcookingequipment.
EquipmentandMaterialsHereisalistofbasicequipmentandmaterialsthatyouwillneedtohaveathandduringthesoap-makingprocess:
1.Heavy-dutyrubbergloves,apron,safetygogglesandlong-sleevedtop:thiswillprotecttheuserfromcausticspillsandfumes.
2.Vinegar:essentialtohaveonhandatalltimes.Itneutralizesthesodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)–acidneutralizesanalkali–andifyoumanagetogetsomecausticliquidorrawsoaponyourskin,aquicksprayfollowedbyawashwillpreventanyburns.If,likeme,youhavepetsandchildren,cleaningthefloorsandsurfaceswithvinegaralleviatesanyworryaboutunknownspills.
3.Stainlesssteelsaucepan:formakingthesoapin(3litres(51⁄4pints)minimum).Donotuseanyothertypesofmetal,suchasaluminium,asitwillreactwiththesoap.
4.Heatsourceformeltingoil:yourhob(stove)orasmallelectriccampingstovethatcanbeusedanywhere.
5.Moulds:pourrawsoapintothesetocreatethebasicshapeofyourfinishedsoaps.Therearemanytypesavailable,rangingfromcardboardlinedwithgreaseproof(wax)papertocustom-madesiliconemouldsthatalloweasy
soaprelease.Thebestmouldsaresiliconeorheavy-dutyplastic,whichcanbelinedorgreased.Ifyouareakeenrecycleryoucanusedrainpipes,juiceboxes,emptycardboard,plasticpotsandcakemoulds.Therearevariouswebsitessellingcommercialmouldsthatallowyoucutuniformbarsandnoveltysiliconemoulds(seeSuppliers).Generally,thelargertheamountofsoapyoumakeatonce,thebettertheendresults.Althoughitistemptingtopoursoapintoprettylittlesilicone-shapedmoulds,theyloseheattooquicklyandsaponificationwilltakemuchlonger.Tocreatesmallbars,waituntilyoumakeabatchinalargemouldandpopthesmallermouldsontopofthelargemouldbeforeinsulationtotakeadvantageoftheextraheatgenerated.
6.Clingfilm(plasticwrap)orheavy-dutyplastic:forcoveringthesurfaceofyourmouldedsoaptopreventunsightlysodaash(awhitepowderthatissometimesproducedwhenairreactswiththesoapduringsaponification).Sodaashisnotharmful,butapurelyaestheticissuethatcanbescrapedoff.
7.Greaseproofpaper:tolinecardboardorwoodenmoulds.8.Towelsorblanketsandcardboard:forinsulatingrawsoaponceithasbeen
pouredintoamouldtopreventheatlossandensurefullsaponification.Placetwolargetowelsonyourtablefollowedbyasheetofcardboard,thenthesoapandanotherlayerofcardboard.Finallywrapthesoapinthetowels.Inacoldroom,anadditionalblanketcanbewrappedaroundthesoap.
9.Scalesforweighing:accurateelectronicscalesthatgodownto1g(1⁄16oz)anduptoatleast3kg(6lb8oz).(Ifyouwishtogointocommercialproductioninthefuture,asetoftradescaleswillberequired.)
10.Plasticorglassbowlsandjugs:forweighingoutsodiumhydroxideanddryingredients,formixingupsodiumhydroxideandformeasuringwater.
11.Cleanjam(jelly)jars:forstoringessentialoils.Itisbesttore-usejamjarsforparticularblendsofessentialoilsratherthanwashingtheoilsinadishwasherorthesink.Iuseadifferentjarforeachessentialoilblendand
keepthemonashelfforre-useeachtime;thisalsoprevents
TechniqueTipIfyouhaveniceworktopsinyourkitchen,Iadvisemakingthesoapelsewhereratherthanruiningyoursurfaces(don’taskhowIknowthat,butaveryexpensivelesson!).Otherwise,covertheworktopswithaplastictableclothoroilclothbeforeyoustart.
BasicSoap-MakingToolKitThefollowingtoolswillbeusedagainandagainduringthesoap-makingprocess:
1.Soap-makingthermometerandjamthermometer:thesoap-makingthermometerisessentialforusewiththecausticliquidasitdoesnotdeteriorateinsodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)likeajamthermometerwould.(Believeme,itisnotfuntryingtopickfloatingnumbersoutofyourmixwhenyouhaveforgottenandleftitinthecausticliquid;funnilyenoughathermometerisnotthesameoncethenumbersaregone!)Jamthermometers,however,areusefulforhangingonthesideofapanofoilstomeasuretemperature.
tomeasuretemperature.2.Siliconewhisks,spatulas,spoonsandstickblender(optional):theseare
idealforuseinsoapmakingastheydonotdeteriorateinheatandcausticmixtures.Agoodsiliconespatulawillalsoscrapeoffasurprisingamountofsoapthatwouldotherwisebewasted.Whisksareusedtostirtherawsoap.Onceyouareproficientinsoapmakingwithawhiskandaremovinguptolargerbatches,astickblenderismuchmoreeffective(seeAdvancedTechniques).
3.Cheesegrater:forgratingyourfinishedsoaptorecycleitintoavarietyofadditionalproductsanditems.
4.Siliconeorplasticladle:topourthesoapintothemouldsifthepanistooheavytoliftwhenmakinglargebatches.
5.Sharpknife,cheesecutter,soapcuttingtool,choppingboard:tocutyoursoapbarsfordryingoncethesoapisreadytocut.
6.Sprayoilorpaintbrushforgreasingmouldswithasprayormeltedsolidoils.
7.Coffeegrinderorpestleandmortarforgrindingspices,herbsandoats.8.PHstripsfortestingyourfinishedsoaponceithascooledandhardened.
Inexpensivelitmuspapersareeasilypurchasedonline.
HealthandSafetyTipsByfollowingafewsimplerules,soapmakingcanbeasafeandenjoyablehobby:
Wearclose-fittinggogglesfromthebeginningtotheendoftheprocessandalsoforcleaningup.Wearlong-sleevedtopsandtrousers,aswellasheavy-dutyrubbergloves.Surgicalglovescanbeusedforadditionaldexterityandwhenmeasuringoutessentialoils,howeverthesearetoothinandshortforsoapmaking.Keeppetsandchildrenoutofthesoap-makingareauntilaftercleanup,andwheneveryouhandleraworcausticsoap.KeepequipmentseparateandawayfromthekitchenwhennotinuseHavevinegartohandatalltimestoneutralizespillsandcleansurfaces.Sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)ispoisonous.Ifyouingestit,drinklotsofwaterandcontactapoisoncontrolcentre.Ifyougetsodiumhydroxideinyoureyes,rinsethemwithplentyofcleanwaterforatleasthalfanhourandgettohospital.Whenmakingupyourcausticwatermix,fumesarereleased–keepyourheadawayfromthebowlwhenmixingandmakeyoursoapinawell-ventilatedroomoroutside,ifpossible.AlwayspHtestyoursoapbeforehandlingandleaveittocureforfourtosixweeks.
Ingredients
Thebasiccomponentsofhandmadesoaparetheoils,sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)andaliquid.Usingtheseitems,youcanmakeaverysimplebarofsoap.Howeverthereareaplethoraofessentialoils,fragrances,colours,exfoliantsandbotanicalsavailablethatyoucanaddtoenhanceandpersonalizeyoursoap.
Oils
Oilsarethebulkoftherecipeandeachoilyouusebringsuniquequalitiestothefinishedproduct.Eachoilrequiresaparticularamountofsodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)toconvertitintosoap(saponificationvalue).Saponificationchartscanbefoundonlineandthereareusefulcalculatorsthatwillaccuratelyworkouttheamountofsodiumhydroxideneededtomakeyourrecipesuccessfulandsafe(MMSLyecalculator:www.thesage.com).Whenmakingsoapitisimportanttohaveextraoilinyourrecipetokeepitmild.Thisextraoiliscalledsuperfattingandmyrecipesareusuallysixtosevenpercentexcessfat.Ifyouhavetoolittleexcessfatyouruntheriskofhavingaharshratherthanasoothingsoap.
Hereisaselectionofthemostusedoilsandtheirproperties.Youcanfindavarietyofchartsonlinethatdetailthepropertiesofoilsusedinsoapmakingandthemaximumamountstouseinarecipeforthebestresults(seeResources).Experimentwiththefollowingoilsatthequantitiessuggestedtovarythedensityandtextureof
yoursoapandthequalityofthelatherproduced.Alwaysrunanynewrecipesthroughalyecalculator.
1.Sunfloweroil
2.Olivepomaceoil3.Palmoil
4.Coconutoil
5.Sheabutter
6.Cocoabutter
7.Castoroil
8.Hempoil
OliveOil:25–50%Oliveoilusuallymakesupatleasthalfoftheoilsusedinarecipe.Itproducesamildcreamylatherandahardmoisturizingbar.Youcanusemostgradesofoliveoil,butolivepomaceismostcost-effectiveandspeedsupthetimeittakestowhiskthesoaptotrace(traceisthethickeningofthesoap,seeTechniques).Usingextravirginoliveoilslowsdowntheprocessconsiderablyinmyexperience.
CoconutOil:Useupto30%
CoconutOil:Useupto30%CoconutisanotheroilthatIrecommendinallrecipesandbelieveisessentialtoagoodbarofsoap.Itmakesahardbarwithgreatlatherandlovelybigwhitebubblesthatdonotvanishimmediately.
PalmOil:25–50%Palmoil,alongwithcoconutandoliveoil,arethemostcommonlyusedoilsinsoapmakingandforgoodreason.Palmoilhasalovelycreamyconsistencyandproducesahardbarwithastablelather.Palmoilis,however,acontroversialoilintermsofitsproductionandtheeffectonecosystemsandhabitatsintheareasofMalaysiaandThailandwhereitisfarmedextensively.Ifyouwishtousepalmoilbutavoidtheethicalconcernsitisbesttobuyorganicpalmoil,whichoriginatesinColumbiaandisproducedonasmall,ethicalscale.
CastorOil:5–15%Castoroilisusedinsmallquantitiesinsoapmaking.Itisparticularlyusefulformakingshampoobars,asitassistsinrinsingandproducesamoisturizinglather.
CocoaButter:5–15%Cocoabutterhassimilarpropertiestopalmoilandproducesahardbarwithastablelather.Itis,however,anexpensiveoilandisoftenbettersuitedasanadditivewithyouressentialoilsandbotanicals.
SheaButter:5–15%Sheabutterisaluxuriousandexpensivebutterthatgivesahard,silkyqualitytothebarofsoapthatyoumakewithit.Itcanbecombinedwithcocoabuttertoreplacethepropertiesofpalmoilinyoursoap.Itisalsousedalotasanutrientoilaftertracewiththebotanicals.
SunflowerOil:10–20%Sunfloweroilisagoodreplacementforsomeoftheoliveoilinarecipe.Itproducesastablelather,ismildlycleansingandslowsdowntrace.
HempOil:5–10%Hempoilissoothingtotheskinandproducesasoftbarofsoap,ifusedinlargequantities,withastableandconditioninglather.Itispronetorancidity,soonlyuseinsmallquantitiesandusethesoapwithinayear.
TechniqueTipIfyouressentialoilsorfragrancesarepronetoseizing(solidifyinginthepanbeforepouring),usingabetterqualityoliveoil(extravirgin)willreducethisprobleminmyexperience.
ColoursThereareavarietyofwaystocoloursoap,butdobearinmindthatthenatureofcoldprocesssoapandtheingredientsusedoftenproduceunexpectedresultswithcolour,soexperimentationiskey.Ashandmadesoapissuchanaturalproduct,Itendtousecoloursthatproduceearthy,mutedhuesratherthanbrightcolours.Toproducenaturalcoloursusespicesandclays.Experimentwiththepercentageofthesenaturalcoloursuntilyouachievearesultthatyouarehappywith.Toachievebrightcoloursexperimentwithoxidesandcosmeticpigmentsavailablefromsoapsupplycompanies(seeSuppliers).Instructionsforusingthesecolourtypeswillappearwithintherecipes.
Meltandpoursoapscanbecolouredwithliquidsoapcolouringordrypigmentsthataremadeupwithwaterandaddedtoyourrecipe.Formeltandpouritisbesttoadd1.25ml(1⁄4tsp)ofcolouringto15ml(1tbsp)ofwater,addingthecolouradropatatimeuntilyouarehappywiththefinishedshade.Essentialoilscanalsoimpartdelicateshadestothesoap.
Thefollowingnaturalingredientsandspiceswilladdcolourtoyoursoaps:1.Cocoapowder
2.Cinnamon
3.Cayennepepper4.Bentoniteclay5.Turmeric
6.Currypowder
7.Frenchpinkclay8.Paprika
9.Spirulinapowder
ScentsThemajorityofscentsthatIusearenaturalessentialoilsorbotanicals,suchashoneyandcinnamon,bothofwhichgiveamouth-wateringscent.Certainsmellscanonlybeattainedfromtheuseoffragranceoilsandmostofthesearefood-basedscents,suchascoconut,appleandcherry.
Essentialoilsnotonlyscentthesoapbutalsoofferthebenefitsofaromatherapy,andmanyoftheessentialoilshaveanti-fungaloranti-bacterialpropertiesthathelpthesoaptolastlonger.Essentialoilsandfragrancesareavailablefromreputablesoapsupplycompanies(seeSuppliers).Blendingofessentialoilsisadelicatebusinessandyoucanfindahugeamountofrecipesonlineifyouwishtoexperimentandarenotaqualifiedaromatherapist(seealsoAdvancedTechniques).Pleasebearinmindthatessentialoilsarepowerfulandshouldbeusedwithbothcautionandgloves!
Essentialoilsadddeliciousscentalongwithusefulanti-fungalandantibioticproperties:1.Cinnamon
2.Lavender
3.Orange
4.Peppermint
5.Rosemary
Botanicals
Ahugevarietyofbotanicalscanbeaddedtoyoursoaptoprovidetextureandinterest.Someprovideexfoliation,suchasoats,pumiceandcoffee;somearedecorative,suchaslavenderbudsandorangeslices;andothershavetherapeuticbenefits,suchasaloevera,vitaminEandhoney.Botanicals,coloursandscentsarealladdedtoyoursoaprecipeoncetracehasoccurred(seeTechniques).Certainbotanicals,suchasrosebudsandpetals,arebetterasanexternaldecorationsoncethesoapismadeandishardening.
Botanicalscanbeusedtoprovideexfoliation,todecorateyoursoapsortoaddtherapeuticbenefits:1.Oats
benefits:1.Oats
2.Coffeegrounds3.Pumice
4.Olivestone
5.Apricotstone
6.Lavender
7.Calendula
8.Sage
9.Rosemary
10.Thyme
11.Comfrey
12.Nettle
13.Lemongrass
14.Jasmine
15.Rosepetals
16.Rosebuds
17.Clovebuds
18.Cinnamon
19.Honey
20.VitaminE
21.Aloevera
22.Orangeslices23.Orangepeel
24.Lemonslices
25.Lemonpeel
26.Desiccatedcoconut27.Seaweedpowder28.Chocolate
29.Goats’milkpowder30.Poppyseeds
Techniques
ColdProcessMakingcoldprocesssoapisassimpleandpleasingascooking,andwithtechniquesthathavebarelychangedoverthelastfewhundredyears,itisatraditionalskillthatiseasytomaster.Coldprocesshandmadesoapisgentlerandlessdryingthancommercialsoapasitretainsglycerineasanaturalby-product.
Inthepast,familieswouldhaveasoapdayonwhichtheywouldmakeenoughsoaptolastthewholeyear.Nowwiththeadventofsodiumhydroxideyouarenolongersavingwoodashtomakeanalkali,nordoyouneedtowaitforthefat.Bysimplyassemblingingredientsaccordingtotherecipeandafewbasicitemsofequipment,luxurioussoapcanbemadeinjustafewsparehours.Thecoldprocesstechniqueisusedinmanyoftheprojectsinthisbook.Besuretoreadthesafetyadvicebeforeyoubeginand,mostimportantly,enjoyit!SoapBaseIngredients
•300g(101⁄2oz)coconutoil•600g(1lb5oz)olivepomaceoil•300g(101⁄2oz)palmoil•Botanicalsandessentialoils(NB:Addrequiredamountsaspertherecipeyouarefollowing)
•375ml(13floz)coldfilteredwater•168g(53⁄4oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)
1Greaseyourchosenmouldwithasmallamountofmeltedcoconutoilandapaintbrush
2Lineyourmouldusinggreaseproof(wax)paper,foldingitovertheedgesofthemould.(Thisisnotnecessaryifyouareusingasiliconemould.)3Weighouttheolivepomace,coconutandpalmoilsintoyourpanand
heatthemwhilestirringuntilallthesolidoilshavemeltedandthetemperatureisapproximately60°C(140°F).Taketheoilsofftheheatandleavetooneside,placingathermometerinthepan.4Weighoutallbotanicalsandessentialoilsaccordingtotherecipe
youarefollowing.Remembertouserubberglovestohandleessentialoils.5Measurethewaterintoalargebowlandweighoutthesodium
hydroxideintoadrycleanjug.Wearyourgogglesandrubberglovesandworkinawell-ventilatedarea.
6Addthesodiumhydroxidetothewaterwhilestirring.Becarefultoturnyourheadanddonotinhaleanyofthefumesreleased.Onceitis
stirredthoroughlyandallthesodiumhydroxidehasdissolved,leavethemixturetoonesideandplaceathermometerinit.7Overthenexthour,periodicallycheckthetemperatureoftheoilsand
thesodiumhydroxidemix.Oncethetwomixturesareapproximately52°C(125°F)slowlyandcarefullypourthesodiumhydroxidemixintotheoils.8Whiskthemixtureconstantlyuntilitstartstothickenandleaveslines
inthewakeofthewhisk.Thisstageintheprocessisknownas‘tracing’andcantakeanythinguptoanhourormore.Testifthemixtureistracingbyliftingthespoonoutofthemixtureanddrippingtheliquidalongitssurface.Ifitsinkswithoutamarkitisnottracing;ifitleaveslinesinthesurfaceitisready.9Oncetraceoccursaddtheessentialoilsandanybotanical
ingredientsifyouareusingthem,andstirthoroughly.10Carefullypourthethickenedmixtureintoyourpreparedmoulds.
11Placeclingfilm(plasticwrap)directlyontothesurfaceofthesoapinthemould,coveringitcompletelytopreventtheformationofsodaash.Layouttowelsorblanketsfollowedbycardboardontoyourworksurface,placethemouldsontothecardboardandaddextracardboardoverthetop.Finallywraptheblanketortowelsaroundittopreventthesoapfromcoolingtooquickly.Leavetocoolforabout24hours.12Oncethesoapiscold,pullitoutofthemouldusingthefoldedlining
papertoreleaseit.13PHtestyoursoapbydissolvingashavingintoasmallamountof
wateranddippingapHstripintothemixture.ThepHshouldbe10orlowerandinmostcasesitwillbepH8or9.IfthesoapisabovepH10,leaveitforafewweekstocurethentestitagain.14Oncedry,cutthesoapintobarsandleavethemtohardenforfour
tosixweeks(seeCuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap),ensuringthere
isspacebetweeneachbarforairtocirculate.Turnthebarsweekly.Thelongerthebarsarelefttodry,theharderandlonger-lastingthesoapwillbe.
TechniqueTipWhenworkingwithsodiumhydroxide,keepvinegarspraytohandatalltimes.Vinegarwillneutralizethealkaliifthesodiumhydroxidecomesintocontactwithyourskin.
TechniqueTipIfthesoapisnotreleasedfromthemouldseasily,placethemintothefreezerforapproximatelyeighthours.Oncefrozen,removethemouldsandwhilewearinggloves,turnthesoapoutontoatrayorsimilarsurfacetothaw.
TechniqueTipIftheoiltemperaturehasdroppedtoolowyoucangentlyreheatit,rememberingtoremoveitfromtheheatwhenitisseveraldegreeslowerthanyourequire.Tocooloverheatedoil,placethepaninasinkofcoldwaterandstiruntilitreachesthedesiredtemperature,removingitwhenitisafew
inasinkofcoldwaterandstiruntilitreachesthedesiredtemperature,removingitwhenitisafewdegreeshigherthanyouneed,asitwillcontinuetocool.
MeltandPour
Meltandpoursoapbaseisaformofpre-madesoapthatallowsyoutomakeyourowninashorttime,withoutthechemicalprocessesinvolvedinthecoldprocesstechnique.Itisaproductthatissimpleandsafeforbothchildrenandadultstouse.Therearecertainchemicalsaddedtothesoaptoallowittobesoflexibleandeasytouse,butitisverygoodformakingsmall,prettysoapsanddoesnothavethelongcuretimethatcoldprocesshas.Meltandpourcomesinclearandopaquevarieties,bothofwhichtakecolourandscentwellandcanhavebotanicalsadded.SoapBaseIngredients
•Stephensonclearorwhitemeltandpoursoapbase(seeSuppliers)•Rubbingalcohol
1Weighouttheamountofmeltandpoursoapbaserequiredfortherecipe.Cutupintosmallchunkstoallowforquickermelting.2Placethechunksinamicrowaveablebowlorsmallpanandmelt
slowlyonalowheattoavoidbubblesandoverheating.(Ideallyheattoaround120°C(250°F)orchecktheoptimumtemperaturewiththemanufacturer.)3Oncethesoaphasmeltedyoumustworkquicklytoaddyour
fragrance,colourandbotanicalsasaskinformsquickly.Youcanre-meltitifaskinforms,butthismayallowthefragrancetoevaporate,soavoidifpossible.Usecoloursparingly–toomuchwillaffectthetransparencyofthesoapandinsomecasesproducecolouredlatherthatcanstainbaths
andlinens.Donotaddtoomuchinthewayofglittersandiridescentpowdersastheycansinktothebottominexcess.4Onceyouhaveaddedallyourbotanicals,pourintothemoulds.
5Spraythesurfaceofthesoapwithrubbingalcohol(availablefromchemists/drugstores)toremoveanybubbles.6Oncehard,youcanunmouldanduse.Ifyoursoapdoesnotcome
outeasily,placeitintothefridgeforafewhourstohardenandpullawayfromthesidesofthemould.Donotfreezeasthiscancausethefinishedsoaptocrack.
BotanicalBasicsBecausemeltandpourdoesnotrequirethehightemperaturesofcoldprocess,thebotanicalsretaintheircolourandstructure.Therearenospecialmaterialsrequired;simplyheatsmallquantitiesinthemicrowaveorlargequantitiesinapan.
LuxuriousLathers
Theprojectsinthisbookaredesignedtotakeyoufrombasicsoapthroughavarietyofexcitingtechniquestoallowyoutoconsolidateyourknowledgeandbecomeproficientinsoapmaking.Eachprojectisbasedonabasicrecipewithluxuriousbotanicalsandfun,fruityfragrancecombinationsaddedtomakeyoursoaptrulyirresistible.Thereissomuchsoap-makinginformationouttheretotakeyoutothenextlevel,butitisimportanttogetthebasicsrightbeforemovingonthroughthewonderfulworldofhandmadesoap,sotakeyourtimeandmostimportantly,havefun!Eachrecipeiseasytofollowwithalistofingredientsandadditionalequipment,handytipsandclearstep-by-stepinstructionstocoveranynewtechniquesthatyouwillneed.
BabySoft
Technique:ColdProcess
Newbornbabiesdonotneedtobewashedwithsoapforthefirstfewmonths,butwhenyouarereadytostartusingsomethingmorethanwater,thissimplesoapwithnoessentialoilsisidealforbaby’ssensitiveskin.Thehealingpropertiesofthecalendulapetalsareperfectforsoothingnappyrashandenhancingthatpurenewbornbabyscent.YouwillneedTomake1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap
BaseIngredients
•600g(1lb5oz)olivepomaceoil•300g(101⁄2oz)coconutoil•300g(101⁄2oz)palmoil•375ml(13floz)filteredwater
•168g(53⁄4oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)
Botanicals
•30g(1oz)calendulaoil•Handfulofcalendulapetals
Equipment
•Anappropriatemouldtohold1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap•Cookiecutter(optional)•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)1Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeColdProcess),addingthecalendulaoilandpetalsattrace.
2Unmouldthesoapandsliceit.Allowtocureforfourtosixweeks(seeCuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap).
BotanicalBasics
Theadditionalcalendulaoilmakesamoremoisturizingbar,andbyaddingitattrace,moreofitspropertieswillberetainedinthefinishedproduct.
MakingCalendulaOilTomakecalendulaoilyouwillneedadryjamjarwithalid,verydrycalendulapetals,oliveoilandsunshine.Filltwothirdsofthejarwithcalendulapetalsandtopupwitholiveoil(useorganicextravirginoliveoilandorganiccalendulapetals,ifpossible).Leaveittosteepinasunny,warmplaceforthreetofourweeks.Strainoffthepetalsandsqueezeoutasmuchoilasyoucan.Labelthejarandkeepitinadarkcupboardreadyforuseonitches,stings,bites,scrapes,cutsornappyrash.Youcouldalsomakeitintoacreamorbalm.
SoapStyleUsecookiecutterstomakeshapedsoapstodelightchildrenofallages.
ClearlyLavender
Technique:MeltandPour
Oneofthebestthingsaboutmeltandpoursoapisthatyoucanmakesmallquantitiesasandwhenyouneedthem.Thesesimplesoapsaresoversatileandcanbemadewithoutanyspecialequipmentorcolourants–allyouneedisaclearmeltandpoursoapbase,anysiliconemouldshapeandcolouring.Thissumptuoussoapbenefitsfromlavenderessentialoil,knownforitssoothingproperties,aswellasbeingagentleskinhealer.YouwillneedTomake360g(123⁄4oz)ofsoap
BaseIngredients
•360g(121⁄2oz)clearmeltandpoursoapbase
•2.5ml(½tsp)purplepigmentpowedermadeupwith15ml(1tbsp)waterBotanicals
•4g(1⁄8oz)lavenderessentialoilEquipment
•Siliconemuffintin•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)
1Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeMeltandPour).Oncethesoapisfullymelted,addtheessentialoilandpurplecolouringadropatatimeuntilyouarehappywiththeshade.Pourthesoapintothemould.
2Oncecold,removefromthemouldandyoursoapisreadytouse.
SummerSwirl
Technique:ColdProcess
Usingcolourantsinsoapmakingcanbefunandyoucanexperimentwithcolourandscenttoproducesomelovelyresults.Thissummersoapfeaturesadelightfulswirlofcerisetobrightenitup.Thefresh,zingyfragranceoflemongrassisupliftingandalsohasusefulantisepticproperties,makingitaperfectsoaptotakeonholidaytosootheitchyskinandcounteractinsectbites.YouwillneedTomake1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap
BaseIngredients
•600g(1lb5oz)olivepomaceoil•300g(101⁄2oz)coconutoil•300g(101⁄2oz)palmoil•375ml(13floz)filteredwater•168g(53⁄4oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)
Botanicals
•1g(1⁄16oz)purplepigmentpowder•24g(1oz)lemongrassessentialoil
Equipment
•Anappropriatemouldtohold1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)
1Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeColdProcess)untiltrace.2Add1g(1⁄16oz)ofpurplepigmentpowderto15ml(1tbsp)ofwater
andmix.3Removeapproximately240ml(81⁄2floz)ofrawsoapfromthepan
intoajug.Mixthepigmentwaterintoittomakeadarkcerisecolour.4Pourthesoapintothemouldandpourthecolouredsoapontopina
randomdesign.
5Usingtheendofaspoon,swirlthecolouraroundandthroughthesoapuntilyouarehappywithyourcolourdesign.6Coverandinsulatethesoapasusual(seeColdProcess).Leaveto
dry,unmouldthesoapandcutasdesired(seeCuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap).
TechniqueTipWhenhandlingpigmentpowders,alwaysuserubberglovesandclearupanyspillsimmediately.Powderleftonsurfaceswillattractmoistureintheairandstainsurfaces.
Gardener’sRescue
Technique:ColdProcess
Afterspendinghourstendingthesoil,gardenersneedahardworkingsoapthatwillremovedirtandprovidesomemuchneededmoisture.Coffeeispackedwithnaturalanti-oxidantsanditsgroundsareexfoliating,givingthissoaptheperfectpunchtoeradicatedirtandrefreshtiredhands.Byaddingazingoflimeoilyouhavetheperfectantidotetoaharddayofpullinguptheweeds.YouwillneedTomake1.9kg(4lb3oz)ofsoap
BaseIngredients
•600g(1lb5oz)olivepomaceoil•300g(101⁄2oz)coconutoil•300g(101⁄2oz)palmoil•100g(31⁄2oz)hempoil•400ml(14floz)filteredwater
•181g(63⁄8oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)
Botanicals
•30g(1oz)groundcoffee•26g(1oz)distilledlimeessentialoil
Equipment
•Anappropriatemouldtohold1.9kg(4lb3oz)ofsoap•Clayholecutter,knifeorapplecorer•Pieceofstrongtwine
•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)1Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeColdProcess),makingsurethatthegroundcoffeeandlimeessentialoilsarethoroughlyincorporatedwhenaddedaftertrace.
2Oncethesoapisunmoulded,cutitintochunkybarsusingalargeknifeorcheesecutter.3Useaclayholecutter,knifeorapplecorertomakeaholeinoneend
ofthesoap.Leavetheholetodryforatleast24hours.
4Threadapieceofstrongtwinethroughtheholeandhanguptodryforfourtosixweeks.
SoapStyleHangyourGardener’sRescueontheoutsidetapsoitisreadytousewhenyouneeditmost!
GreenFingersRepairCream
Technique:BasicCream
Gardeningandtherepeatedscrubbingofdirtyhandscanstriptheskinofprotectiveoilsandcausethemtobecomedryandcracked.Itisimportanttorepairthedamageanddosowithouttheuseofharshchemicals.Thisverysimplehandcreamrecipeprovidesnourishmentandprotection,inadditiontotheantisepticandhealingpropertiesoflavender.YouwillneedTomakeapproximately90g(31⁄4oz)ofhandcream
BaseIngredients
•20g(¾oz)almondoil•20g(¾oz)coconutoil•15g(½oz)beeswax•30g(1oz)glycerine
Botanicals
•15dropsoflavenderessentialoilEquipment
•Glassjug•100ml(31⁄2floz)potorjar•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)1Fillasaucepantoathirdfullwithwaterandbringtotheboilonahob(stove).Placethealmondoil,coconutoilandbeeswaxinaglassjuginsidethesaucepan.Gentlydissolvethemixtureandstironceithasallmelted.
2Addtheglycerinedropbydrop,stirringasyougotocombine.3Takethemixtureofftheheatandaddthelavenderoil,mixingwell.
4Pourthehandcreammixtureintopotsandusewithintwomonths.
HoneyandOatScrub
Technique:ColdProcess
Sometimessoapcontainingessentialorfragranceoilscanbeirritatingtosensitiveskin,soit’sgreattohaveaskin-friendlysoaplikethisinyourrepertoire.Oatsprovideexfoliationandtexturetothesoapandhoneyhasamazingproperties.Notonlyisitantiseptic,butitisalsoahumectant,whichdrawsmoisturefromtheair.Thissoapwillsmellamazingoncemadeandwilloftenbeconfusedwithfudge–don’tbefooled!YouwillneedTomake1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap
BaseIngredients
•600g(1lb5oz)olivepomaceoil•300g(101⁄2oz)coconutoil•300g(101⁄2oz)palmoil•375ml(13floz)filteredwater•168g(53⁄4oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)
Botanicals
•60g(21⁄4oz)runnyhoney•100g(31⁄2oz)rolledoats
Equipment
•Coffeegrinderorblender•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)
TechniqueTipIliketogrindhalfoftheoatsintoafinertextureusingacoffeegrinderorblender.Thisproducesasmootherbar,whilestillretainingsomeoftherusticnatureoftheoats.
1Weighoutthehoneyandrolledoatsandpophalfoftheoatsintoagrinderorblendertomakethemintoafinepowder.Putallofthebotanicalsintoabowl.
2Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeColdProcess).Beforeaddingthesodiumhydroxideandwatertotheoils,takeafewtablespoonsofwarmoiloutandcombineitwiththehoneyandoatstomakeasloppymixture.3Oncetracehasoccurred,addthehoney,oatsandoil.Combinewell
toensuretheadditionaloiltraces.4Addtoyourchosenmouldandcover(seeColdProcess).Honeycan
overheat,sodonotinsulatetoomuch.Leavetodry,unmouldthesoapandcutasdesired(seeCuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap).
TechniqueTipWhenusinganypowders,claysormilks,youwillneedtoblendthemwithsomeoftheoilsbeforeaddingthemtothetracedsoap.Thispreventslumpsofunmixedbotanicalsinyourfinishedsoap.
addingthemtothetracedsoap.Thispreventslumpsofunmixedbotanicalsinyourfinishedsoap.Removeaportionofthemeltedoilsandblendwiththeclaysorpowderstomakeasloppymixture.Oncetracehasbeenreachedaddthismixturewiththeotherbotanicalsandwhisktoensuretheoilsareincorporatedandtracewell.
HoneyHoneyhasbeenusedinhealingandskincareforcenturiesandiswell-documentedforitsantisepticandhealingproperties.Aswellasbeingsoothingandhealingitisahumectant,whichmeansitdrawsmoisturefromtheair,givinghoneysoapitssupergentlecleaningpower.Itscombinationwithoatsitistheperfectrecipetosoothesensitiveskin.
SoapStyleUsebubblewraptocoverthesoapinsteadofclingfilm(plasticwrap).Itwillleaveadelightfulhoneycombpatternonthesurfaceofthesoap.
Shaver’sSaviour
Technique:ColdProcess
Commercialshavingfoamscanbeharshanddryingtothesensitiveskinoftheface.Theold-fashionedmethodofwetshavingcanbeequallyaseffective,andismuchkinderandgentlertoskin.Thisbasicsoaprecipe,withtheadditionofasmallamountofcastoroil,allowsforalovelylatherandagoodslipontheskin,helpingtherazortoglide.Cutthesoapintoroundswithacookiecutterandplaceinapotforusewithashavingbrush.YouwillneedTomake1.9kg(4lb3oz)ofshavingfoam
BaseIngredients
•600g(1lb5oz)olivepomaceoil•300g(101⁄2oz)coconutoil•300g(101⁄2oz)palmoil•75g(23⁄4oz)castoroil•390ml(131⁄2floz)filteredwater•177g(6oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)
Botanicals
•60g(21⁄4oz)bentoniteclay•24g(1oz)calendulaoil•30g(1oz)teatreeessentialoil
Equipment
•Loafmouldtoholdapproximately1.9kg(4lb3oz)ofsoap•Deeproundcookiecutterwithserratededge
•Ceramicpots(largerthanyourcutter)•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)1Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeColdProcess),takingapproximately120ml(8tbsp)ofthewarmoilsouttoblendthebentoniteclay,teatreeessentialoilandcalendulaoilintoasloppymixturetoavoidlumps.
2Oncetraceisreached,addthebotanicalsandcombinewell.Pourthesoapintoyourmouldandinsulate(seeColdProcess).
3Oncedry,slicethesoapintobarsoruseacookiecuttertomakeroundsoaps.
4Leavetheroundsoapstodryforfourtosixweeks.Finally,popthesoapintoapotandusewithashavingbrushtocreatealovelylather.
TechniqueTipRecycleapieceofolddrainpipeintoaroundmould.Cutupthesides,greaseit,sealthebottomthenpourthesoapin.Sealthetopandkeepthemoulduprightthenfreezetoreleasethesoapandcutoncedefrosted.
BotanicalBasicsBentoniteclayisagreenvolcanicclaythatisoftenusedinfacemaskstoabsorboils,calendulaoilisnaturallyhealingandsoothesirritation,andteatreeessentialoilhasantisepticandantifungalproperties.Togethertheycombinetomakeagreatshave.
RosebudBundt
Technique:ColdProcess
Beautifullyscentedwithrosegeraniumandablendofessentialoils,andnaturallycolouredwithpinkclay,thistrulyfemininesoapcakeisperfectforahenpartyorbabyshower.Addaflourishofrosebudsandavintagecakestandandyouwillhavearealcrowdpleaser.YouwillneedTomakea2.2kg(4lb9oz)soapcake
BaseIngredients
•850g(1lb14oz)olivepomaceoil•425g(15oz)coconutoil•425g(15oz)palmoil•530ml(18¼floz)filteredwater•240g(83⁄4oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)
Botanicals
•85g(3oz)pinkclay•40g(11⁄2oz)rosegeraniumessentialoil•10g(1⁄4oz)lavenderessentialoil•10g(1⁄4oz)palmerosaessentialoil•5g(1⁄8oz)vetiveressentialoil•Rosebudstodecorate
Equipment
•2.2kg(4lb9oz)decorativesiliconebundtmould
•Roundcaketin•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)1Greaseyoursiliconebundtmouldandplaceitinsidearoundcakebox,slightlyshorterthantheheightofthemouldandpackedoutunderneathtosupportit.
2Usinggreaseproof(wax)paper,cutoutatemplateofthetopofthemouldandthencutouttheholeinthecentre.Putittooneside.3Weighouttheoilsintothepanandseparateoffenoughliquidoilto
makeasloppy,lump-freemixturewhencombinedwiththepinkclay.
4Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeColdProcess)untilyouhavereachedalighttrace.Addthepinkclaytothemixture,thenaddtheessentialoils.Whisktocombinethoroughlyandfullytracetheoil.5Pourintothemould,placethepre-cutgreaseproofpaperlidonthe
surfaceofthesoaptheninsulate(seeColdProcess).6Oncethesoaphashardenedandcooled,chillthemouldinthe
freezerforanhourandthenremovethebundtfromthemould.
7Decorateeachslicewithpinkrosebuds.8Leavethesoapcaketodryfor24hoursthencutitintoequalslices
usingalargeknife9Leavethesoapcaketodryforafurtherfourtosixweeks,pullingouttheslicestoallowtheairtoflowaroundthem.
TechniqueTipifyoudon’thaveacaketinoftherightsize,Useacardboardboxtosupportthesoap;siliconemouldscanbefloppyiftheyareusedontheirown.
PeppermintPumice
Technique:ColdProcess
Sometimesyouneedawakeupinthemorningandthisenergizingpeppermintsoapisguaranteedtodojustthat!Withfresh,tinglypeppermint,acaffeinehitofcocoaandabody-polishingdoseofpumicetoinvigorateandexfoliate,allyoursensesaresuretoberevived.Thismintymasterpiecewillprovearealfavouritewiththemeninyourlife.YouwillneedTomake1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap
BaseIngredients
•600g(1lb5oz)olivepomaceoil•300g(101⁄2oz)coconutoil•300g(101⁄2oz)palmoil•375ml(13floz)filteredwater
•168g(53⁄4oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)
Botanicals
•24g(1oz)peppermintessentialoil•30g(1oz)cocoapowder•30g(1oz)groundpumicepowder
Equipment
•Anappropriatemouldtoholdapproximately1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)1Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeColdProcess),takingapproximately90–120ml(6–8tbsp)ofthewarmoilsouttoblendthecocoapowder,pumiceandpeppermintoilintoasloppymixturetoavoidlumps.
2Oncetraceisreached,addtheblendedbotanicalsandcombinewell.
3Pourthesoapintoyourmouldandinsulatewell(seeColdProcess).4Leavethesoaptodry.Onceitisunmoulded,cutitintoroughchunks
forareallyrusticfinish(seeCuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap).
PumicePumiceisapopularbotanicalusedwidelyinsoap-makingforitsgentlepolishingability.Itismadefromgroundvolcanicrocksandismoreoftenusedintheformofstonestorubhardskinfromfeet.Theserocksaregroundintoapowderformthatmakesasuperbexfoliantwhenaddedtosoap,gentleenoughtouseonthefaceaswellasthebody.
CocoaPowder
Cocoapowderiswidelyusedinbaking,butitisalsousedeffectivelyincoldprocesssoap-makingasanaturalcolourant.Itisfavouredforitslovelyrich,browncolourandthesubtlescentthatitimpartstothesoap.Matchedwithvanillafragrance,itgivesarichearthyscentandtone.
PinaColadaLayers
Technique:ColdProcess
Ifyoulikepinacolada,you’lllovethisfunandfruitylayeredsoap!Pineappleandcoconutscentsmixtogethertocreateanirresistiblepinacoladafragrancethatwillevokethoughtsoflazyholidayeveningsbesidethebeach.Bysplittingtheingredientsandmakingtwobatches,youcancolourandfragranceeachseparatelyandlayerthemforastrikingeffect.YouwillneedTomake1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap
BaseIngredients.Maketwicefortwosmallbatches:
•300g(101⁄2oz)olivepomaceoil•150g(51⁄2oz)coconutoil•150g(51⁄2oz)palmoil•187ml(61⁄2floz)water•84g(3oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)
Botanicals
•Batch1:
•5ml(1tsp)annattoyellownaturalcolourant•6g(1⁄8oz)pineapplefragrance
•Batch2:
•12g(3⁄8oz)coconutfragrance•30g(1oz)desiccatedcoconut
Equipment
•Deepmouldtoholdapproximately1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)
1Carefullymeasureouttheoilsandwaterforthetwobatchesandthebotanicals.
2Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructionstomakebatchone(seeColdProcess).Addthecolourantandpineapplefragranceattrace.3Halffillthemouldandinsulatewell(seeColdProcess).4Makethesecondbatchquickly,addingthecoconutfragranceand
desiccatedcoconutattrace.
5Uncoverthefirstbatchinthemould.Quicklypourthesecondbatchoverthetopofthefirstbatchtofillthemould.Coverthesoapagainandinsulatewell,asbefore.6Unmouldthesoap,cutiteitherintochunksorslicesdependingon
themouldyouareusingandleaveforfourtosixweekstocure(seeCuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap).
TechniqueTipWhenmakingsmallerbatches,weigheverythingoutinadvanceandworkatthehigherendofthetemperaturescaletoavoidheatlossanditsresultantproblems.Ifyoumelttheoilsandmakethesodiumhydroxidemixforthesecondbatchapproximately15minutesafterthefirst,youwillbeabletomakebothbatchesquicklywithoutlosingtoomuchheat.
BotanicalBasicsDesiccatedcoconutactsasagentleexfoliant.Addittoonebatchtogiveyoursoapadistincttexturedside.
Cheat’sCastileSoap
Technique:ColdProcess
TraditionalCastilesoapisusuallymadewithonehundredpercentoliveoil,whichgivesaverylongtraceandtakesaconsiderablylongtimetodryout.Ifyoufeelthatpalmoilisnotaningredientthatyouwishtouseinyoursoapbase,hereisanalternativewithalargepercentageofolivepomaceoilandsomeadditionalbeeswaxandcocoabutter,whichproducesahard,nourishingfragrance-freesoap.YouwillneedTomake2kg(4lb8oz)ofsoap
BaseIngredients
•1kg(2lb4oz)olivepomaceoil•200g(7oz)coconutoil•150g(51⁄2oz)cocoabutter•50g(13⁄4oz)beeswax•400ml(14floz)filteredwater
•184g(61⁄2oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)
Equipment
•Anappropriatemouldtoholdapproximately2kg(4lb8oz)ofsoap•Stamp(Lazercutz,seeSuppliers)(optional)•Stickblender(optional)
•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)
TechniqueTipThissoapwilltakealongertimetotrace,soyoumaywishtotrythestickblender(seeAdvancedTechniques).
1Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeColdProcess),ensuringthatyoumakethesoapatthehighendofthetemperaturescaletokeepthebeeswaxfromhardeninginthepan.Usethestickblender(seeAdvancedTechniques)ifdesired.2Carefullypourthesoapintoyourmouldandinsulatewell(seeCold
Process).
3Unmouldthesoap,cutitintorusticsquarechunks,stampitifdesired(seeUsingStamps)andleaveitforatleastsixtoeightweekstodry(seeCuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap).
BotanicalBasicsBeeswaxhasahighermeltingpointthanotheroils:workatthehigherendofthetemperaturescaleandkeeptheoilatthattemperature.
TechniqueTipSoapshighinoliveoilcontenttendtobealittlesofter,sotheyneedtobeleftforatleastsixtoeightweekstodry.
CastileSoapCastilesoaporiginatesintheCastileregionofSpain,althoughithasalsobeenmadeinItalyandFrance,soitsoriginsarealittlesketchy.Simplyput,itissoapmadefrompurevegetableoilsratherthantheinferiortallowthatwasusedin
madefrompurevegetableoilsratherthantheinferiortallowthatwasusedinBritainandsomeareasofFrance.Usuallyitismadefrompureoliveoil,whichgivesahardbarofsoapthattakessometimetotraceandharden.Ithasbeenusedasfinesoapforlaundryandtheskinforcenturies.Traditionally,itisahardsquareblockofgreensoapthatwhenusedhasalatherthatdoesnotproducealotofbubblesincomparisontosoapswithblendedoils.
Goats’MilkandLavenderIndulgence
Technique:ColdProcess
Goats’milkispackedfullofvitaminsandisnourishingandsoothingtotheskin.Combinedwiththecalming,antisepticpropertiesandheavenlyfragranceoflavenderessentialoil,youhaveasoapthatisperfectlygentleandsoothing–arealtreatfordry,tiredskin.Thereareseveralwaysofusingmilkinsoapmaking;youcansubstituteitforthewaterintherecipeorsimplyusepowderedgoats’milkattraceasyourbotanical.YouwillneedTomake1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap
BaseIngredients
•600g(1lb5oz)olivepomaceoil•300g(101⁄2oz)coconutoil•300g(101⁄2oz)palmoil•375ml(13floz)filteredwater•168g(53⁄4oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)
Botanicals
•100g(31⁄2oz)powderedgoats’milk•40g(11⁄2oz)lavenderessentialoil
Equipment
•Anappropriatemouldtoholdapproximately1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)
1Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeColdProcess),rememberingtoseparateapproximately120ml(8tbsp)ofwarmoilstoblendthegoats’milkpowderandlavenderoilintoasloppymixturetoavoidlumps.2Attrace,addthebotanicalsand,oncecombined,pourintoyour
mould.
3Insulatelightly(seeColdProcess).Leavetodry,unmouldthesoapandcutasdesired(seeCuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap).
TechniqueTipMilksoapstendtobedarkerincolourduetothesoapburningduringthemakingprocess.Theycanbemadelighterbymakingthesoapatthelowerendofthetemperaturescaleandreducingtheamountofinsulation.Thisisadvisedonceyouhavemasteredthebasicbatch.
Goats’MilkGoats’milkisanidealingredientforsoapmaking.ItisfullofnourishingA,C,E,andsomeBvitamins,alongwithaminoacids,citricacid,enzymes,unsaturatedfattyacidsandzinc.Goats’milksoapalsocontainslacticacid,andalphahydroxyacid,commonlyaddedtoskinrejuvenationproducts.Alphahydroxyacidhelpssloughoffdeadskincells,leavingsmoothnewcellsatthe
hydroxyacidhelpssloughoffdeadskincells,leavingsmoothnewcellsatthesurface.
StrawberrySensations
Technique:MeltandPour
Oneofthegreatestadvantagesofusingmeltandpoursoapbaseistheabilitytomakesmall,shapedsoapsthatwouldbedifficulttoachievewiththecoldprocesstechnique.Thissimpleprojectmakesfruity,strawberry-shapedscentedsoapsthataregreatfunasgiftsandwillreallydelightthesenses.Thepoppyseedsaddtotheircharmbyreplicatingtheseedsinthestrawberries.YouwillneedTomake200g(7oz)ofsoap
BaseIngredients
•200g(7oz)opaquemeltandpoursoapbase•Alcoholforspritzing
Botanicals
•1.25ml(1⁄4tsp)redliquidcolouringmadeupwith15ml(1tbsp)water.•4g(1⁄8oz)strawberryfragrance•3g(1tsp)poppyseeds
Equipment
•Strawberrysoapmould•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoapMakingEssentials)
1Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeMeltandPour).Oncethesoaphasmeltedaddthefragranceandcolouradropatatimeuntilyoureachthedesiredshade.2Scatterthepoppyseedsintothesoapuntilyouarehappywiththe
appearance.3Pourthesoapintothestrawberrysoapmoulds,usingthewater
techniquetoworkouthowmuchsoapbaseisneededtofillthemoulds(seeColdProcess).Spritzthesoapwithalcoholtoreducebubbles.4Unmouldthesoaponcecold.
BotanicalBasics
BotanicalBasicsPoppyseedsnotonlyaddtothecharmofthissoap,theyalsohaveexfoliantqualitieswhenitisused.
MessyPlay
Whilecoldprocesssoapmakingshouldbelimitedtoadultsforhealthandsafetyreasons,therearemanyprojectsthatwillencouragechildrentolearnhowtomaketheirownsoaps,bathbombsandothernaturalproducts.Thesoapsinthissectionaredesignedforchildrentocreatewiththehelpandsupervisionofanadult.Theyaremessy,fullofnaturalingredientsandsafetomakeforhomeuseorasgifts.Myfive-year-olddaughterlikesnothingbetterthanmakingherownbathbombstorelaxwithinthetub,andsoap-makingpartiesaresomuchfunforolderchildrenwholovetocreateproductsthattheycanbeproudof.
Scrap-savingSoapBalls
Technique:Recycling
Youwillfindwithsoapmakingthatyouwillhavealotofscraps,oddmentsandpieceslyingaroundfromcuttingout.Putthemtogoodusewiththesedelightfulherbalsoapballs,whichcanbedecoratedandputintoprettybagstomakecharminggifts.Childrenlovetomaketheseastheyaresquidgy,messyandinvolvetheuseofcolourfulpowders,petalsandglitter.Adultsshouldgratethesoapforsmallerchildren,butotherwisetheycangetstuckin!YouwillneedTomake300g(10½oz)ofsoap
BaseIngredients
•Approximately300g(10½oz)ofcuredsoapscraps•Oats•Skinsafeglitter(optional)
Botanicals
•Mixedherbs•Lavenderbuds•Rosepetals•Spirulinapowder•Cinnamonpowder
Equipment
•Cheesegrater•Bowl•Eggboxes
1Grateyourscrapsofcuredsoapintoabowl.Separatethegratedsoapinto75g(23⁄4oz)piles.2Addyourchosenbotanicalstothebowls.Squashthegratedsoap
togetherandrollitinyourhandstomakesmooth,compactballsofsoap.3Rollthesoapintoyourchosendecoration;theamountyouneedwill
beyourpersonalpreference!Oncetheballshavebeencoated,leavethemaneggboxtodryoutbeforeuse.
TechniqueTipIftheherbsdonotsticktothesoapballs,wetthesurfaceofeachballbyrollingitinyourwetpalms.
BotanicalBasicsYoucanaddfragrancetotheballsifdesiredwith2.5ml(½tsp)ofessentialoils.Essentialoilsareverypowerfulwhenneatandmustbehandledbyadultswearingsurgicalglovesonly.
SoaponaRope
Technique:Recycling
Itisimportanttorememberthathandmadesoapneedstodryoutbetweenusestoavoidturningintoapileofmush!Asoapdishwithdeepridgesisperfect,oryoucangodowntheold-fashionedrouteofusingscrapstomakesoaponarope.Ilovethese,astheydon’tneedasoapdish,allowtheairtocirculateandaregreatfunforlittlehandstomakeanddecorate.YouwillneedTomake300g(101⁄2oz)ofsoap
BaseIngredients
•Scrapsofcuredsoaporwholebars,approximately300g(101⁄2oz)perballBotanicals
•Driedherbsorpetalsfordecoration(optional)Equipment
•Ropeorheavy-dutystring•Bowl•Cheesegrater/knife•Choppingboard
1Gratethescrapsofcuredsoapintoabowl.2Foldtheropeorstringinhalfandtietheendstogethertoforma
handleandstopper.3Takethegratedsoapandpressitaroundtherope,justabovethe
knot,tomakearoundshape.Keepaddingtoituntilyouarehappywiththefinisheditem.4Decoratethesoapwithherbsordriedpetalsifdesired–itcanbeleft
plainifyouprefer.5Hangthesoapsomewherewarmanddrytohardenforafewweeks
beforeuse.
TechniqueTip
TechniqueTipIfyouhavetroublestickingthesoaptotheropeaddalittlewatertothegratedsoap.
ToySurprise
Technique:MeltandPour
Ifyouhavechildrenthatarereluctanttogoanywherenearabarofsoap,thesefuntoysurprisebarsgivethemarealincentivetowash,wash,wash!Anyage-appropriatetoycanbeembeddedintothebarstoprovideweeksofentertainmentbeforereleasingitstreat.Beingbigfansofglitterandcolour,weareaddingbothtothesoapforevenmoreexcitement!YouwillneedTomake200g(7oz)ofsoap
BaseIngredients
•200g(7oz)clearmeltandpoursoapbase•10–15dropsofbluefoodcolouring•Pinchofskin-safeglitter(availablefromsoapsuppliers–seeSuppliers)•Rubbingalcoholinspraybottle
Botanicals
•4g(1⁄8oz)blueberryfragranceEquipment
•Rectangularsoapmouldorplastictubthatwillholdapproximately200g(7oz)ofsoap–usewatermethod(seeColdProcess)
•Microwaveorhob(stove)•Smalltoy
1Meltthesoapinthemicrowavein30-secondbursts,oronthehob(stove)withadoubleboileratapproximately120°C(250°F),makingsurethatyoudonotoverheatit.2Addthefragranceandskin-safeglitter,thenthefoodcolouringa
dropatatimeuntilyouarehappywiththedepthofthecolour.Stirwell.3Spraythetoywithalcoholandplaceitinthemould.4Pourthesoapoverthetoytofillthemouldandspritzwithalcoholto
disperseanybubbles.
5Leavethesoaptocoolforfourtofivehoursbeforeunmouldingandusing.
BotanicalBasics
BotanicalBasicsUseskin-safeglitterfromareputablesupplierratherthancraftglitter,whichcanbeanirritant.
SoapStyleTomakethisintoasoaponarope,poptheknottedendofaloopedropeinonecornerofthemeltedsoapinthemould.Asthesoapdriesitwillhardenaroundtherope.
FizzyFunBathBombs
Technique:BathBombs
ForyearsIboughtbathbombslikeachildinasweetshop,mystifiedbytheirfizzing,aromaandtheglitterthatcoveredthebathroom,thenonedayImademyownandI’veneverlookedback!Withtheamazingamountoffragrances,botanicalsandingredientsavailableandthesimplelevelofskillinvolved,theyareperfectforkidstomakeasatreatforthemselvesorasuniquehomemadegiftsforothers.YouwillneedQuantityoffinishedbombswilldependonyourchosenmould
BaseIngredients
•450g(1lb)bicarbonateofsoda•225g(8oz)citricacid•Filteredwaterforspritzing
Botanicals
•10dropsofrosegeraniumessentialoil•5dropsoflavenderessentialoil•Handfulofrosepetals
•10g(1⁄4oz)cocoabutterchips
Equipment
•Finemistspraybottle•Siliconemouldsoricecubetrays•Measuringcup
1Combinethecitricacidandbicarbonateofsodawellinthebowltoensureaneven2:1ratiothroughout.2Addthedropsofrosegeraniumandlavenderessentialoilsandstir
well,breakingdownanylumpsthatappear.3Cutthecocoabutterchipsintosmallcrumbsandaddwiththerose
petals,stirringwelltocombine.4Fillthefinemistspraybottlewithwaterandspraythemixturetwoor
threetimes,stirringquicklytocombine.Ifthemixturestartstofizzwhenyousprayit,stirwellandthefizzingshouldstop.Repeatthespraying
andstirringuntilyouhaveacrumblyconsistencyandthemixturestays
togetherwhenyousqueezeitinyourhand.
TechniqueTip
TechniqueTipWhileyoucanpurchasespecialmouldstomakethetraditionalroundbathbombs,theyarereallynotnecessary.Siliconecakemoulds,icecubetraysoreveneggboxesmakeperfectlygoodsubstitutes.
BotanicalBasicsIfthemixturesstartstodryoutwhileyouarefillingthemoulds,sprayitafewmoretimeswithwatertomoistenitagain.Ifthemixturebecomestoowet,addadditionalbicarbonateofsodaandcitricacidinthe2:1ratioandstirwelltocombine.
NaturalLiving
Beforetheinventionofdetergent,soapwasusedtowashthefaceandbody,hair,clothes,dishesandeverythingthatdetergentsareusedfornow.Wearenowbecomingincreasinglyawareofthesuspectingredientsandchemicalsfoundindetergentsandgrowinginconcernforthedamagetheyarecausingus,bothinternallyandtotheworldatlarge.Plasticwasteisfillingtheoceansandlandfill,leachingchemicalsintothewatersystemsandaffectingusall.Thisinspiredmetostartmakingmyown.Onceyouhavethebasiccollectionofingredients,makingyourowncleaningproducts,dishwashertabletsandshampooscostsafractionofthepriceofshop-boughtandyoucanre-usepackagingtoavoidwaste.Inthissection,wewilllookattherangeofproductsthatyoucancreatefromyourhomemadesoapandhowtocreatethem.
SumptuousShampooBar
Technique:ColdProcess
Whileanyhandmadesoapcanbeusedtowashyourhair,therearecertainoils,suchascastoroilandjojobaoil,thatcanbeusedinthebaserecipetohelpwithrinsingandtheconditionofthehairandscalp.Adjusttheexcessfatcontentoftherecipetomakeshampoofordifferenthairtypes(withlessexcessfatforgreasyhairandmorefordryhair).YouwillneedTomake1.3kg(3lb)ofshampoosoap
BaseIngredients
•450g(1lb)olivepomaceoil•200g(7oz)coconutoil•200g(7oz)palmoil•75g(23⁄4oz)castoroil•50g(13/4oz)jojobaoil•260ml(91⁄4floz)filteredwater•130g(43⁄4oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)(excessfat:7%)
Botanicals
•8g(1⁄4oz)rosemaryessentialoil•16g(1⁄2oz)lavenderessentialoil
Equipment
•Anappropriatemouldtoholdapproximately1.3kg(3lb)ofsoap•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)
1Followthebasicsoap-makingrecipe(seeColdProcess).
CastorOilCastoroilismadefromthecastorbeanplantandisrichinfattyacids,aswellasbeingsoothingandreadilyabsorbedbytheskin.Itisusedinshampoobarsbecauseitdrawsmoisturefromtheairandproducesarichconditioninglather.It
becauseitdrawsmoisturefromtheairandproducesarichconditioninglather.Itisoftenusedinhotoiltreatmentswhereitcoatsthehairshaftandsealsinmoisture.
VersatileVinegar
Technique:Recycling
Oneoftheproblemsthatpeoplehadwiththeuseofsoapwasthesoapscumthatformedwithhardwater–usingvinegarinyourproductswillcounteractthis.Vinegarhasbeenusedforcenturiestotreatwounds,asadisinfectantandasaninternalmedicine.
HomemadeOrangeVinegar
Homemadeorangevinegarsmellslovely,issimpletomakeandcanbeusedasbothadishwasherrinseaidandawashingmachineconditioner.Ifyouhaveplentyoforanges,thisrecipeisideal;justaddtheorangehalvestothejarasyouusethemovertime.YouwillneedBaseIngredients
Tomake1–2litres(13⁄4–31⁄2pints)oforangevinegar
•1–2litres(13⁄4–31⁄2pints)ofwhitevinegar•12–15squeezedoranges(usedhalves,aftersqueezing)
Equipment
•Largekilnerjar1Halffillalargekilnerjarwithwhitevinegarandasyouuseyour
oranges,addtheusedhalvestothevinegaruntilthejarisfull.Youmayhavetoaddmorevinegartoensurethattheorangesarecovered.2Leavetoinfuseforthreetofourweeks,strainoffthevinegarand
bottleforusingdilutedinavarietyofrecipes.
ScentedHerbalVinegar
Technique:Recycling
Handmadesoapisanexcellentalternativetoharshshampoo,asitisgreatatbothcleansingandnourishingthehairandscalp.Vinegarisusedasarinseafterwashingwithsoaptosmooththehairshaftandrestoretheacidmantle.Ihaveusedsoapandvinegartowashmyhairformanyyearsandonceyougetusedtotheslightlydifferentfeelitisveryeffective,nottomentionmuchcheaper.Youcanmakeyourownscentedherbalvinegarsforuseasarinseortoaddtocleaningproducts.YouwillneedTomake1litre(13⁄4pints)ofherbalvinegar
BaseIngredients
•1litre(13⁄4pints)cidervinegarBotanicals
•50g(13⁄4oz)lavenderbuds•50g(13⁄4oz)rosepetals
•50g(13⁄4oz)anyotherfreshordriedherbs(optional)
Equipment
•Largekilnerjar1Placethelavenderbuds,rosepetalsoranyotherfreshordriedherbsyouwishtouseintoalargejar,untilitisonethirdfilled.Pouralargebottleofcidervinegartothetopofthejar,overthepetalsorherbs.2Leavethevinegartoinfuseinawarmsunnyplaceforthreeweeks.3Strainofftheherbsandeitherrepeatforastrongerinfusionoruse
straightaway.
UsingYourVinegarRinseOnceyouhavemadeyourvinegarinfusionyoucankeepitinthebathroomforrinsing;simplypouraninchofvinegarintoajugandtopitupwithwarmwater.Forextrafragranceyoucanaddafewdropsofessentialoils,butthevinegarsmellsoondissipates.Pouroveryourhead,massageintoyourhairandscalpforafewminutesandrinseoffafterwards.Keepyoureyesclosedtoavoidgettingvinegarinthemandwatchyourstep,asitcanmakethebathalittleslippery!
LaundryShred
Technique:Recycling
If,likeme,youfindyourselfwithalotofsoaplyingaround,itsoonbecomesasensibleideatouseitinasmanywaysaspossible!Makingyourownwashingpowderisabrilliantwaytosavemoney,reducepackagingandloweryourimpactontheenvironment.Thisisasimplerecipethatcanbemadeinbulkandstoredinadrycupboardreadyforuse.YouwillneedTomake400g(14oz)oflaundryshred
BaseIngredients
•200g(7oz)soap•100g(31⁄2oz)boraxsubstitute•100g(31⁄2oz)washingsoda
Botanicals
•20dropsoflavenderessentialoilEquipment
•Bowl•Cheesegrater•Coffeegrinderorfoodprocessor•Largejarorcontainer
BotanicalBasicsRemovelimescaleorsoapscumandaddmorescenttoyourlaundrybyaddingatablespoonofvinegarandafewdropsofessentialoiltotherinsecycle.
1Gratethesoapintoabowl.Runyourhandsthroughthegratedsoaptobreakitintosmallerpieces.Leavethegratedsoaptodryforafewdaysandgrindinafoodprocessororcoffeegrindertoreducethesizeofthesoappieces.2Addtheotherdryingredientsandthelavenderessentialoil.Stiruntil
thoroughlycombined.
3Decantthelaundryshredintoajarorcontainer.
Multi-purposeCleaningSpray
Technique:Recycling
Technique:Recycling
Manyhouseholdcleaningproductsaremuchharsherthanmosthouseholdspillsneed.Inadditiontheyareexpensive,useenvironmentallyunfriendlypackagingandareoftenmadewithharshchemicals.IhavebeenmakingmyowncleaningproductsfortenyearsandduringthattimeIhavefoundmyownversionstobeequallyaseffectiveandmuchcheaper,evenwhentakingintoaccountmyuseofessentialoils.ThisisasimplerecipethatIuseforgeneralcleaninganditcanbeeasilymodifiedifyouwantsomethingstronger.YouwillneedTofillonespraybottleofcleaningsprayBaseIngredients
•10g(1⁄4oz)finelygratedsoap•5g(1⁄8oz)bicarbonateofsoda(bakingsoda)•Hotfilteredwater
Botanicals
•20dropsofteatreeoilEquipment
•Spraybottle•Cheesegrater•Funnel•Spoon
BotanicalBasicsAlltheingredientsusedinthissprayarefarsafertouseinahouseholdwithchildrenandpetsthanshop-boughtcleaningsprays.
1Addthefinelygratedsoaptothespraybottle.Nextaddthebicarbonateofsoda,teatreeoilandhotwaterthroughafunnel.2Swishthebottlearoundgentlysothatthesoapandbicarbonateof
sodadissolves.Oncedissolved,yoursprayisreadytouse!
TechniqueTipRemembertoshakethebottlebeforeeachuse.
DazzlingDishwasherTablets
Technique:BathBombs
Onedaywhilemakingbathbombs,itoccurredtomethatthesamesimplemethodcouldalsobeusedtomakedishwashertablets.Maketheminbulkandusethemasneeded.Thetabletshavebuilt-indishwashersaltandcitricacid–usedtoremoveresidueandkeepglassesclear–aswellaseffectivecleansingagentsforperfectlycleandisheseverytime.YouwillneedTomake475g(1lb1oz)ofdishwashertablets
BaseIngredients
•25g(1oz)soap,finelygratedanddried•115g(4oz)citricacid•225g(8oz)washingsoda•115g(4oz)Epsomsalts•Filteredwaterforspritzing
Botanicals
•15dropsoflemonessentialoilEquipment
•Cheesegrater•Bowl•Spoon•Siliconeicecubetray1Followthebathbombinstructions(seeFizzyFunBathBombs)usingalloftheaboveingredients.
2Packthemixtureintoicecubetraysandleavefor24hourstodryandharden.3Removethecubesandpopthemintoanairtightjaruntilyouneedto
usethem.
TechniqueTipUseonetabletperloadwitha50:50ratioofOrangeVinegar(seeHomemadeOrangeVinegar)towaterintherinseaidcompartmentifneeded.
CuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap
Onceyouhavemadeyourcoldprocesssoapyouwill,ofcourse,beitchingtouseit!Whilethisiscompletelyunderstandable,youwillgetbetterandsaferresultsbycuttingitandleavingittocureandhardenforfourtosixweeks.
UnmouldingOnceyoursoaphascooledyoucanunwraptheinsulationandremoveitfromthemould.Ifyouhaveusedasiliconeoralinedmould,youcantakeitstraightout.Ifitisshowingsignsofsticking,popitinthefreezerforafewhoursandthenremovethesoap.Ifyouhavepouredthesoapdirectlyintoaplasticmouldyouwillneedtofreezeitforapproximatelyeighthoursbeforeremovingit.Placethesoapongreaseproof(wax)papertodefrost,rememberingtousegloveswhenhandlingit.
handlingit.
CuttingAfteryouhaveunmouldedthesoap,youcancutitreadytodryandcure.Atthisstageitisimportanttouseglovestohandlethesoap,asitmaybecausticinplaces.Youcanusealargeknife,acheesecutterorasoap-cuttingtooltocutyoursoapintobarsreadytodry.Thesooneryoucutthesoap,thebetterfinishyouwillhaveonthebars.
Soapissofterandeasiertocutandmanipulatestraightafterunmouldingandthisisagoodtimetocutoutanyshapesfromthesoapusingcookiecuttersorpersonalizeitusingstamps(seeUsingStamps).Soapthathasbeenleftforweeksuncutwillhaveahardouteredgethathasdriedandthiscancrumblewhencut.
CuringOncethesoaphasbeencut,youwillneedtoleaveitsomewheredryandwarmforittocureforthenextfourtosixweeks.Therearetworeasonsforcuringsoap:firstlythelengthycuretimewillensurethatallsodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)isneutralizedandsecondly,thelongerthesoapcures,theharderthebarbecomes.Whilecuring,thewaterwillevaporatefromthedryingsoapanditwillshrinkbyatleasttenpercent,makingitharderandlongerlasting.
Thesoapmustbelaidoutwithgapsbetweenthebarstoallowforfullcirculationoftheair,andturnedeveryfewweekstoallowthesideofthesoapsittingontheshelftohaveaccesstotheair.Damp,coldconditionsarenotgoodforsoapbars,astheywillnothardenandcanoftensweatandbecomeslimytotouch.Itisalsonotadvisabletostoresoapinplastic,asthispreventsitfromdryingout.
PHTestingYoushouldalwayspHtestyoursoaptoensurethatitissafetouse.Todoso,dissolveashavingofsoapintoasmallamountofwateranddipapHstripintothemixture.ThepHshouldbe10orlowerandinmostcaseswillbepH8or9.IfthesoapisabovepH10,leaveitforafewweekstocurethentestitagain.
GellingGenerallyspeaking,ifyoursoapismadeatthehigherendofthetemperaturescaleandinsulatedwell,itwillgothroughareactioncalledgelling.Gellingiswherethesoapheatsup,liquefiesandturnstranslucentfromthecentre,workingitswaytotheoutside.Ifthisisallowedtohappen,itwillspeedupthesaponificationprocessandshortenthecuretime.IfyoursoapgelsallthewaytotheedgesitshouldhaveapHofbelow10whenyouunmouldit.
Sometimesthegelisincompleteandyoucantellthisbythecolourdifferencebetweentheedgesandthecentreofthesoap.Thegelledportionwillbedarkerandyouwillseealightercolouredringaroundtheedges.Tobesafe,itisalwaysadvisabletocurethesoapfortherecommendedfourtosixweeks,asthisiswillensurethatallsoapissaponifiedandishardenoughtouse.WhenyoupHtestyoursoapitmayhaveapHofabove10(usuallythestripwillbepurple).Usuallyifyoure-testinafewweeksthepHwillhavegonedowntounder10asthesaponificationiscompleted.
UsingSoapDishesManypeoplewillhaveboughtahandmadebarofsoapandwonderedwhyitwentsoftanddidnotlastverylongcomparedtocommercialbars.Handmadesoapneedsairaroundittoallowittodryoutbetweenuses;givenareallygoodsoapdishwithplentyofdeepslats,thebarwilllastmuchlongerandretainitshardness.Alternatively,makeanoldfashionedsoaponarope(seeSoaponaRope),whichkeepsaircirculatingallarounditbetweenuses.
DecoratingandPackagingSoap
Therearemanywaystodecorate,personalizeorpackageyoursoapforgifts,weddingfavours,ortosell.Ifyouaresellingyoursoapasabusinessventure,seekadviceonthelegalaspects,astherearestrictrequirementstobemetbeforeyoucansellyoursoap.YouwillfindagreatdealofinspirationonlinefromsitessuchasPinterest,whereothersoapmakerspostimagesofdecoratedorpackagedsoaps.Beverycarefulnottocopyothers,asideasmaybecopyrighted;insteadusetheseimagestogainideasandmakeyourowntrulyuniquecreations.
EmbeddingBotanicalsIfyouwishtodecorateyoursoapwithrosebuds,clovesorotherembeddeditems,suchasshellsorstones,youshoulddosoimmediatelyaftercutting.Intheearlystagesofcuring,thesoapisstillsoftandmalleable,andasitdriestheembeddeditemswillbeheldfastinthedrysoap.
UsingStampsAtthisstage,youcanalsopersonalizeyoursoapwitharubberoracrylicstamp.Generalstampswithmotifsorslogans,suchas‘Handmade’,canbepurchasedfromsoapsupplycompanies.Alternativelyyoucandesignyourownrubberoracrylicstampwithapersonalmessage,initialsorlogos,andhaveitmadeforyouonline(seeSuppliers).
RubberStampsRubberstampsgiveagentle,embossedappearancetothesoapandcanonlybeusedimmediatelyaftercutting,whilethesoapisstillsoft.Tousearubber
usedimmediatelyaftercutting,whilethesoapisstillsoft.Tousearubberstamp,youmustplaceitontheareayouwishtostampandhititwitharubbermallet.Thiscantakesomepractice,butonceachieveditisalovely,professionallook.
AcrylicStampsAcrylicstampsaremuchharderandthesoapwillneedtohavebeenlefttodryforatleasttwoweeksbeforeusingthem.Ifthestampdesignissimple,twoweeksshouldbesufficient;ifitismoredetailedyoumayneedtoleaveitaweekorsolonger.Simplylinethestampupwhereyouwantitandpressitintothesoap.Thiskindofstampleavesadeepembeddedlookandisveryeffectiveforbranding.
PackagingandWrappingOnceyoursoaphashardenedandcured,youcanstarttothinkaboutpackagingandwrappingforgifts.Soapneedstobreathe,soIdonotadvisewrappingitinplasticorcellophaneasthiswillencouragesweating.Giftwrap,greaseproof(wax)paperandfabriccanbeusedtofullyorpartiallywrapthesoapandstillallowittobreathe.Ifindtheeasiestwaytosealthesoapwhenwrappingiswithacoolmeltgluegun,whichwillholdwellanddryquickly.
1.Greaseproof(wax)paper,prettyribbonandahandwrittenmessageonaparceltag:forarustic,homemadelook
2.Brownpaperandribbon:asimpleandelegantfinish
2.Brownpaperandribbon:asimpleandelegantfinish3.Scrapsofvintageorfloralfabric:asimplystylishwrap4.Greaseproofpaper,ribbonandraffia:greatforallowingthecolourofthe
soapandanystampstoshowthrough5.Goldpaper,greentwineandwaxseals:theperfectfestivegiftwrap,
personalizedwithyourownseal6.Simpleribbon:allowsthesoap’sscenttobereleased7.Rosebudsandribbon:pushrosebudsintothetopofthesoapwhilesoftand
addacutecomplementaryribbon8.Giftwrap:perfectforkeepingthescentandlookingpretty9.Mulberrypaper,ribbonandlavendersprig:luxuriouspapersavailablein
manycolours.Tuckasprigoflavender,rosemaryorheatherintotheribbonforaprettyfavour
10.Greaseproof,twineandseal:aclassicfinish
Troubleshooting
Generallybothcoldprocessandmeltandpoursoapmakingisstraightforwardandifyoufollowtheinstructionsyoushouldnothaveanyproblems.Howevereventhebestofushavebatchesthatgowrongandherearefewexamplesofwhatcanhappenandhowtosolveeachproblem.
Problem:SoaponlypartiallygellingornotgellingatallThemajorityofproblemsarisefromheatlossandinadequatestirring;ifyouhavetostirorwhiskforalongtimeyouwillloseheatfromthebatchandthismayresultinthesoappartiallygellingornotgellingatall.Thismayresultincausticsoapforthefirstfewweeksuntilithashadachancetocureandfullysaponify.Ifyoufindthatitistakingyoumorethantwentyminutestoreachtrace,youmaywanttotrythestickblendertechnique(seeAdvancedTechniques)tospeedtheprocessupandreduceheatloss.
Problem:NotraceThisusuallyoccursduetoheatlossorinsufficientstirring.Toavoidthis,makesureyouhaveeverythingreadytogoquicklyandtrythestickblendertechnique(seeAdvancedTechniques)toavoidheatloss.
Problem:WhiteswirlsthroughthesoapOnoccasion,youwillfindwhiteswirlsrunningthroughsectionsofthesoap,oftentowardsthesurface.TheseswirlswillbecausticwhenpHtested,evenwhentherestofthesoaptestsatpH8–9.Thishappenswhensectionsofthesoapwerenottracedwhenpouredintothemould(usuallythesoapfromthebottomofthepanintheedges).Toremedythis,youshouldensurethatthesoapiswell-stirred,especiallyatthebottomofthepan.
Problem:OilonthesurfaceofthesoapIfthereisathinlayerofoilonthesurfaceorsidesofthesoapyoucanwipeitawayandcutandcurethesoapasusual,testingthepH.IfthereisonlyathinlayeritshouldnotaffectthepHofthesoap,astherecipescontainatleastsixpercentexcessoil.Ifthesoaphasseparatedandthereisalargeamountofoil,thesoapmustbediscarded,asitwillbecaustic.Youmayfindmethodsforre-batchingsoaponline,butthisisnotgenerallyadvisedforcausticbatches.
Problem:PocketsofcausticliquidthroughthesoapYoumayfindoncuttingwhatlookslikeareallynicebatchofsoapthatyouhavesmallorlargepocketswithliquidcomingoutofthem.Ifthisliquidiscaustic,youhaveaproblemandthesoapmustbediscarded.IftheliquidispH10orlower,itislikelytobeoilorwater,inwhichcaseyoucangratethesoapandremakeitintoballs.
andremakeitintoballs.
Problem:Soapcracksandcrumbles,despitehavinggoodpHSoapthathasnotgelledisoftencrumblyandwhenpressedtogetherformswhatlookslikeanormalbarofsoap.Thisisusuallyduetoheatloss.Toavoidthis,trythestickblendertechnique(seeAdvanceTechniques)atthehigherendofthetemperaturescale.
Problem:ThinwhitepowderyfilmonsurfaceIfthesoaptestswell,thisisnormallyacosmeticreactionandcanbescrapedawayandusedasnormal.Toavoidthis,coverthesoapwithclingfilm(plasticwrap)orplasticbeforeinsulatingit.
Problem:SoapstartstosetinthepanThisiscalledseizing,wherethesoapthickensexcessivelybeforeyouhavethechancetopouritintothemoulds.Seizinggenerallyhappenswhencertainessentialoilsorfragrances,suchasclove,areused.Youcanpressthesoapintothemouldsanditshouldbefineonceithasbeencut,gelledandcured.Itwilllooklumpyandsomewhatrustic,butitwillbeperfectlyusable.Toavoidthis,youcansubstitutehalfoftheolivepomaceintherecipeforextravirgin,whichwillslowtraceandallowyoumoretime.Remembertoaddthefragranceatalighttrace.
AdvancedTechniques
Onceyouhavemasteredthebasictechniquesinthisbook,youcanstarttomoveontomoreadvancedsoapmaking.Wewillcoveradvancedtechniquesandrecipesinthissection.
UsingaStickBlenderOneofthebiggestproblemswithsoapmakingisheatlossandinsufficientstirring.Ifyoutakemorethantwentyminutestogetyourbatchtotrace,youwilllosealotofheat,whichmayresultinavarietyoftheissuesdescribedintheTroubleshootingsection.Atthisstage,andwhenyoufeelyouhavemasteredthewhiskmethod,youcanswitchtousingastickblender.Stickblendersareusuallyusedforlargerbatcheswhereawhiskisnotanoption,howeverifyouareusingasmallpanontheserecipes,thedepthshouldbesufficienttouseablender.
Stickblenderswillreducethetracingtimetoafewminutes,butwiththatcomesthedistinctpossibilityofovertracingyourbatchandhavingareasthatarenottraced.Thebestmethodistouseshortburstsofaboutfiveseconds,followedbystirringwellwiththeblenderswitchedoff.Thiswillensureyougettracethroughout,withoutgoingtoofar.
EssentialOilsWhenyouareexperimentingwithessentialoilblending,itisadvisabletopicktwoorthreeoilsthatyoulikeandplaceadropofeachonapieceofpaper,ifyouwantmoreofaparticularoil,addadditionaldropsuntilyouhaveablendthatyouenjoy.Notetheratiosofoilsandyoucanextrapolatefromthatforyourbatch.
Asageneralruleforhomesoapmaking,Irecommendamaximumofthreepercentessentialsorfragranceusingthebaseoilsandsodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)asthevolumetoworkoutyourpercentage.Forexample,ifyouhave1.2kg(12lb10½oz)ofbaseoilsand170g(6oz)ofsodiumhydroxide,youwoulduse41g(1½oz)ofasingleessentialoiloracombinationofseveraloilstothatweight.
SuperfattingThemajorityofcoldprocessrecipesinthisbookhaveexcessfatinthebaserecipeatsixpercent.Youcangouptoeightpercentexcessfatinyourbaserecipe–thisiscalledsuperfattingyoursoapanditmakesthesoapmoremoisturizing.Anythingbeyondeightpercentmakesthebartoosoftandisnot
moisturizing.Anythingbeyondeightpercentmakesthebartoosoftandisnotrecommended.
Youcanalsosuperfatuptoeightpercentaftertraceusingpreciousnourishingoilsasasupplement;thishasbeendoneintheBabySoftsoap,wherewehaveaddedanadditional15g(½oz)ofcalendulaoilasasupplement,makingtherecipeeightpercentexcessfatintotal.
Suppliers
UKTheSoapKitchen:www.thesoapkitchen.co.ukforsoapingredientsandequipment,includingmoulds.Etsy:www.etsy.com/uk/shop/mrdoright123forsoapmoulds.FreshSkinBeauty:www.freshskin.co.ukforessentialoils.JaneMeans:www.janemeans.comforribbonsandtags.LazerCutz:www.lazercutz.co.ukforstamps.MasqueWrappingLtd.:www.masqueonline.comforbeautifulpapers.TheMouldsShop:www.themouldsshop.co.ukformoulds.
USABebe’sCollectionwww.bebecollection.comforsoapstampsandotherequipment.BulkApothecary:www.bulkapothecary.comforsoapingredientsandequipment.NelsonLine:www.nelsonline.comforgiftwrap.TheRibbonRetreat:
www.theribbonretreat.comforribbons.
AustraliaAussieSoapSupplies:www.aussiesoapsupplies.com.auforallsoapsupplies.TheWrappingPaperCompanywww.wrapco.com.auforribbonsandgiftwrap.
SouthAfricaFunWithSoap:www.funwithsoap.co.zaforallsoapsupplies.TheRibbonCollection:www.theribboncollection.co.zaforribbonsandgiftwrap.
ResourcesLyecalculatorandrecipes:www.thesage.comOilsandtheirproperties:www.lovinsoap.com/oils-chartHelp,adviceandrecipes:www.soapmakingforum.comAdviceonblendingessentialoils:http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/fragrancesandaromatherapy/ht/htcustblend.htmAcomprehensiveguidetonaturalliving:BetterBasicsfortheHome,AnnieBerthold-Bond,ThreeRiversPress,1999.Soap-makingtutorials:www.soapqueen.comSoap-makingresources:www.soapguild.orgAromatherapysoapresources:www.your-aromatherapy-guide.com
AbouttheAuthor
SarahHarpergrewupwithamotherthatmadeeverythingfromscratchandownedhoardsofbooksonaromatherapyandnaturalliving,sotherewasnosurprisewhenshewentinthatdirectionwithherowncareer.Sarahhasalwaysdabbledinnaturallivingandmadeherownlotions,facemasksandcreamsfromayoungage.Shebecamesensitivetochemicalsinherearlytwentiesandlearnedtomakeallherownnaturalcleaningproductstoavoidexposuretoartificialproducts.
products.Sarahstartedmakingherownsoapnineyearsagoandhasprogressedfrom
experimentinginhersmallkitchenbasedinClovelly,Devon,toowningherownsoapcompany,TheClovellySoapCompany,andcraftstudio,RowanTreeStudio,wheresheteachestheseskillstoothers.Herhusbandandmotherhavebothbecomeexpertsoapcraftersandassistherinhergoaltoconverteveryoneshemeetstonaturalchemical-freeliving.Sheisproudtosaythatherfive-year-olddaughterhasonlyeverhadhersoapandhomemadecreamsonherskinandsheisallthebetterforit!
AcknowledgmentsWritingthisbookhasbeenadreamforsometimeandfinallygettingtheopportunitytocompleteitisinnosmallpartduetothefantasticsupportofmyhusbandwhohastakenovermotheringandhouseholddutieswhileIburiedmyselfinrecipesandideas.
Iwouldliketothankmymotherforalwaysbeingattheendofthephoneandforgivingmemyenthusiasmforallthingsnaturalsincechildhood.MylovelydaughterRowanforgivingmeinspirationtostartwritingandforshowingmehoweasyitistopassthisontothenextgeneration.Ialsowanttothankmyfatherforhelpingoutinthestudioandwithbabysitting,sothatIcanconcentrateonthejobathand,andforbeingagreatcheerleader.
Ihavemetsomanypeopleovertheyearsthatleadinspiringnaturallivesandgivemehopethatwecanturnthetideonthechemicalladenlifestyleswithoutcompromisingonquality.
AbigthankyoutoF&WMediaforgivingmemyfirstrealwritingjobandformakingthisareallyeasyandstress-freeprocess.Finally,thankyoutoMartinatTheSoapKitchenforneverbeingtoobusytoanswermysometimesinanequestionsonallaspectsofsoapmaking!
ADAVID&CHARLESBOOK
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