the natural history of chocolate
TRANSCRIPT
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
1/46
TheProjectGutenbergeBook,TheNaturalHistoryofChocolate,byD.deQuelus,TranslatedbyR.Brookes
ThiseBookisfortheuseofanyoneanywhereatnocostandwithalmostnorestrictionswhatsoever.Youmaycopyit,giveitawayorre-useitunderthetermsoftheProjectGutenbergLicenseincludedwiththiseBookoronlineatwww.gutenberg.org
Title:TheNaturalHistoryofChocolateBeingaDistinctandParticularAccountoftheCocoa-Tree,itsGrowthandCulture,andthePreparation,ExcellentProperties,andMedicinalVertuesofitsFruit
Author:D.deQuelus
ReleaseDate:February12,2008[eBook#24588]
Language:English
Charactersetencoding:ISO-646-US(US-ASCII)
***STARTOFTHEPROJECTGUTENBERGEBOOKTHENATURALHISTORYOFCHOCOLATE***
E-textpreparedbyRobertCicconetti,LouisePryor,andtheProjectGutenbergOnlineDistributedProofreadingTeam(http://www.pgdp.net)
Transcriber'snote:
Spellingisinconsistentandhasbeenneithermodernisednorcorrected.
Intheoriginal,footnotesaremarkedwithlowercaseletters,numbers,orasterisks.Inthistranscription,theasteriskshavebeenreplacedbythenumberofthepageonwhichthefootnoteappears.
Contractions(suchasatq;foratque)havenotbeenexpanded.
THENaturalHISTORYOFCHOCOLATE:
BEING
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
2/46
ADistinctandParticularAccountoftheCOCOA-TREE,itsGrowthandCulture,andthePreparation,ExcellentProperties,andMedicinalVertuesofitsFruit.
WhereintheErrorsofthosewhohavewroteuponthisSubjectarediscover'd;theBestWayofMakingCHOCOLATEisexplain'd;andseveralUncommonMEDICINESdrawnfromit,arecommunicated.
_TranslatedfromthelastEDITIONofthe_French_,_By_R.BROOKES,M.D._
TheSECONDEDITION.
_LONDON:_
PrintedforJ.ROBERTS,nearthe_Oxford-Arms_in_Warwick-Lane_.MDCC.XXX.
PREFACE
IftheMeritofaNaturalHistorydependsupontheTruthoftheFactswhicharebroughttosupportit,thenanunprejudicedEye-Witnessismorepropertowriteit,thananyotherPerson;andIdareevenflattermyself,thatthiswillnotbedisagreeabletothePublicknotwithstandingitsResemblancetotheparticularTreatisesof_Colmenero_[1],_Dufour_[2],andseveralotherswhohavewroteuponthesameSubject.Uponexamination,sogreataDifferencewillappear,that
noonecanjustlyaccusemeofhavingborrow'danythingfromtheseWriters.
ThissmallTreatiseisnothingbuttheSubstanceandResultoftheObservationsthatImadeinthe_AmericanIslands_,duringthefifteenYearswhichIwasobligedtostaythere,upontheaccountofhisMajesty'sService.ThegreatTradetheydrivetherein_Chocolate_,excitedmyCuriositytoexaminemorestrictlythanordinaryintoitsOrigin,Culture,Properties,andUses.IwasnotalittlesurprizedwhenIeverydaydiscover'd,astotheNatureofthePlant,andtheCustomsoftheCountry,agreatNumberofFactscontrarytotheIdeas,andPrejudices,forwhichtheWritersonthisSubjecthavegivenroom.
Forthisreason,Iresolvedtoexamineeverythingmyself,andtorepresentnothingbutasitreallywasinNature,toadvancenothingbutwhatIhadexperienced,andeventodoubtoftheExperimentsthemselves,tillIhadrepeatedthemwiththeutmostExactness.WithoutthesePrecautions,therecanbenogreatDependanceonthegreatestPartoftheFacts,whichareproducedbythosewhowriteuponanyHistoricalMatterfromMemorandums;which,fromtheNatureoftheSubject,theycannotfullycomprehend.
AsformyReasoningsupontheNature,Vertues,andUsesofChocolate,
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
3/46
perhapstheymaybesuspectedbysomePeople,becausetheyrelatetoanArtwhichIdonotprofess;butletthatbeasitwill,theFactsuponwhichtheyarefoundedarecertain,andeveryoneisatlibertytomakewhatotherInferencestheylikebest.
AsthereareseveralNamesofPlants,andTermsofArtusedinthoseCountries,whichIhavebeenobligedtomakeuseof,andwhichitwasnecessarytoexplainsomewhatatlarge,thattheymightberightlyunderstood;ratherthanmakefrequentDigressions,andinterrupttheDiscourse,IhavethoughtfittonumbertheseTerms,andtoexplainthemattheEndofthisTreatise:theReadermustthereforelookforwardforthoseRemarksundertheirparticularNumbers.
FOOTNOTES:
[1]DeChocolataInda.
[2]DuThe,duCaffe,&duChocolat.
THETABLE.
TheFirstPART.
Chap.I.TheDescriptionofthe_Cocao-Tree_.Pag.2
Chap.II.OftheChoiceandDispositionofthePlacetoplantaNursery.10
Chap.III.OftheMethodofPlantingaNursery,andofitsCultivation,tilltheFruitcomestoMaturity.16
Chap.IV.Ofthegatheringthe_Cocao-Nuts_,andofthe
MannerofmakingtheKernelssweat;andalsoofdryingthemthattheymaybetransportedinto_Europe_.24
TheSecondPART.
OfthePropertiesofChocolate.38
Chap.I.OftheoldPrejudicesagainstChocolate.39
Chap.II.OftherealPropertiesofChocolate.44
Sect.I.ChocolateisveryTemperate.45
Sect.II.Chocolateisverynourishing,andofeasyDigestion.47
Sect.III.ChocolatespeedilyrepairsthedissipatedSpiritsanddecayedStrength.51
Sect.IV.ChocolateisverypropertopreserveHealth,andtoprolongtheLifeofoldMen.56
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
4/46
TheThirdPART.
OftheUsesofChocolate.60
Chap.I.OfChocolateinConfections.61
Chap.II.OfChocolateproperlysocalled.62
Sect.I.OftheOriginofChocolate,andthedifferentMethodsofpreparingit.63
TheMethodofpreparingChocolateusedinthe_French_Islandsof_America_.67
Sect.II.OftheUsesthatmaybemadeofChocolate,withrelationtoMedicine.70
Chap.III.OftheOilorButterofChocolate.74
RemarksuponsomePlacesofthisTreatise.80
MedicinesinwhoseCompositionOil,orButterofChocolate,ismadeuseof.91
ThewonderfulPlaisterforthecuringofallKindsofUlcers.ibid.
AnexcellentPomatumfortheCureofTettars,Ringworms,Pimples,andotherDeformitiesoftheSkin.94
*****
TheAPPROBATIONofMonsieur_Andry_,Counsellor,Lecturer,andRegalProfessor,Doctor,RegentoftheFacultyofMedicineat_Paris_,andCensorRoyalofBooks.
IHaveread,byorderoftheLordKeeperoftheSeals,this_NaturalHistoryofChocolate_,andIjudgethattheImpressionwillbevery
necessaryandusefulforthePublick.Givenat_Paris_this5thof_April,1719_.
THENaturalHISTORYOFCHOCOLATE.
OftheDivisionofthisTreatise.
IShalldividethisTreatiseonChocolateintothreeParts:Inthe_First_,afterIhavegivenaDescriptionofthe_CocaoTree_,Ishallexplainhowitiscultivated,andgiveanAccounthowitsFruitisprepared:Inthe_Second_,IshallspeakofthePropertiesof_Chocolate_;andinthe_Third_,ofitsUses.
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
5/46
PARTI.
CHAP.I.
TheDescriptionofthe_Cocao-Tree_.
The_Cocao-Tree_ismoderatelytallandthick,andeitherthrives,ornot,accordingtotheQualityoftheSoilwhereinitgrows:UpontheCoastof_Caraqua_,forinstance,itgrowsconsiderablylargerthanintheIslandsbelongingtothe_French_.
Its_Wood_isporous,andverylight;the_Bark_isprettyfirm,andoftheColourof_Cinnamon_,moreorlessdark,accordingtotheAgeoftheTree.The_Leaves_areaboutnineIncheslong,andfourinbreadth,wheretheyarebroadest;fortheygrowlesstowardsthetwoExtremities,
wheretheyterminateinapoint:theirColourisalittledarkish,butmorebrightabovethanunderneath;theyarejoinedtoStalksthreeIncheslong,andthetenthpartofanInchbroad.ThisStalk,asitenterstheLeaf,makesastraitRib,alittleraisedalongtheMiddle,whichgrowsproportionablylesstheneareritcomestotheEnd.FromeachsideofthisRibproceedthirteenorfourteencrookedThreadsalternately.
AstheseLeavesonlyfalloffsuccessively,andinproportionasothersgrowagain,thisTreeneverappearsnaked:Itisalwaysflourishing,butmoreespeciallysotowardsthetwo_Solstices_,thanintheotherSeasons.
The_Blossoms_,whichareregularandlikeaRose,butverysmall,andwithoutsmell,proceedfromthePlacesfromwhichtheoldLeavesfall,asitwereinBunches.AlargeQuantityofthesefalloff,forhardlyTenofaThousandcometogood,insomuchthattheEarthunderneathseemscover'doverwiththem.
Every_Blossom_isjoinedtotheTreebyaslenderStalkhalfanInchoralittlemoreinlength;whenitisyetintheBud,itisoneFifthofanInchbroad,andaboutonefourthoralittlemoreinlength:whenitwasleast,inproportiontotheTreeandtheFruit,themorestrangeitappearedtome,andmoreworthyofAttention[a].
WhentheBudsbegintoblow,onemayconsiderthe_Calix_,the
_Foliage_,andtheHeartoftheBlossom.The_Calix_isformedoftheCoveroftheBud,dividedintofiveParts,orLeaves,ofaverypaleflesh-colour.ThesearesucceededbythefivetrueLeavesofthesameColour,whichfilluptheemptySpacesorPartitionsofthe_Calix_.TheseLeaveshavetwoParts,theundermostofwhichislikeanoblongCup,stripedwithPurple;ontheinside,itbendstowardstheCenterbythehelpofa_Stamen_,whichservestofastenit;fromthisproceedsoutwardly,theotherPartoftheLeaf,whichseemstobeseparatefromit,andisformedliketheEndofaPike.
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
6/46
TheHeartiscomposedoffiveThreadsandfive_Stamina_,withthe_Pistilla_inthemiddle.TheThreadsarestrait,andofapurpleColour,andplacedover-againsttheIntervalsoftheLeaves.The_Stamina_arewhite,andbendoutwardlywithakindofaButtononthetop,whichinsinuatesitselfintothemiddleofeachLeaftosustainitself.
WhenonelooksatthesesmallObjectsthroughaMicroscope,oneisreadytosay,ThatthePointoftheThreadsislikeSilver,andthatthe_Stamina_areChrystal;aswellasthe_Pistilla_,whichNatureseemstohaveplacedintheCenter,eithertobethe_Primitiae_oftheyoungFruit,ortoservetodefendit,ifitbetruethatthisEmbryounfoldsitself,andisproducedinnootherplacebuttheBase.
ForwantofobservingthesesmallParts,aswellastheBulkoftheBlossom,_F.Plumier_hadnodistinctKnowledgeofthem,norhasheexactlydesign'dthem,anymorethan_Mons.Tournefort_,whohasdonethemafterhisDraught[b].
The_Cocao-Tree_almostalltheYearbearsFruitofallAges,whichripensuccessively,butnevergrowontheendoflittleBranches,asourFruitsin_Europe_do,butalongtheTrunkandthechiefBoughs,whichisnotrareintheseCountries,whereseveralTreesdothelike;suchasthe[1]_Cocoeiers_,the[2]_Apricots_ofSt._Domingo_,the
[3]_Calebashes_,the[4]_Papaws_,&c.
SuchanunusualAppearancewouldseemstrangeintheEyesof_Europeans_,whohadneverseenanythingofthatkind;butifoneexaminestheMatteralittle,thephilosophicalReasonofthisDispositionisveryobvious.Onemayeasilyapprehend,thatifNaturehadplacedsuchbulkyFruitattheEndsoftheBranches,theirgreatWeightmustnecessarilybreakthem,andtheFruitwouldfallbeforeitcametoMaturity.
TheFruitofthe_Cocao-Tree_iscontainedinaHuskorShell,whichfromanexceedingsmallBeginning,attains,inthespaceoffourMonths,totheBignessandShapeofaCucumber;thelowerEndissharpand
furrow'dlength-wayslikeaMelon[c].
ThisShellinthefirstMonthsiseitherredorwhite,oraMixtureofredandyellow:ThisVarietyofColoursmakesthreesortsof_Cocao-Trees_,whichhavenothingelsetodistinguishthembutthis,whichIdonotthinksufficienttomakeinrealitythreedifferentkindsof_Cocao-Nuts_[d].
TheFirstisofadarkvinousRed,chieflyonthesides,whichbecomesmorebrightandpaleastheFruitripens.
TheSecond,whichistheWhite,orratherisatfirstofsopaleaGreen,thatitmaybemistakenforWhite;bylittleandlittleit
assumesaCitronColour,whichstillgrowingdeeperanddeeper,atlengthbecomesentirelyyellow.
TheThird,whichisRedandYellowmix'dtogether,unitesthePropertiesoftheothertwo;forastheygrowripe,theRedbecomespale,andtheYellowgrowsmoredeep.
IhaveobservedthatthewhiteShellsarethickerandshorterthantheother,especiallyonthesidetowardstheTree,andthatthesesortsofTreescommonlybearmost.
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
7/46
IfonecleavesoneoftheseShellslength-ways,itwillappearalmosthalfanInchthick,anditsCapacityfullofChocolateKernels;theIntervalsofwhich,beforetheyareripe,arefill'dwithahardwhiteSubstance,whichatlengthturnsintoaMucilageofaverygratefulAcidity:Forthisreason,itiscommonforPeopletotakesomeoftheKernelswiththeirCovers,andholdthemintheirMouths,whichismightyrefreshing,andpropertoquenchThirst.Buttheytakeheedofbitingthem,becausetheFilmsoftheKernelsareextreamlybitter.
WhenonenicelyexaminestheinwardStructureoftheseShells,andanatomizes,asitwere,alltheirParts;oneshallfindthattheFibresoftheStalkoftheFruitpassingthroughtheShell,aredividedintofiveBranches;thateachoftheseBranchesissubdividedintoseveralFilaments,everyoneofwhichterminatesatthelargerEndoftheseKernels,andalltogetherresembleaBunchofGrapes,containingfromtwentytothirty-fivesingleones,ormore,rangedandplacedinanadmirableOrder.
Icannothelpobservinghere,whatInconsistencythereisintheAccountsconcerningtheNumberofKernelsineachShell.[e]_Dampier_,forinstance,saysthereiscommonlynearaHundred;otherModerns[f]60,70or80,rangedliketheSeedsofaPomgranate.[g]_ThomasGage_,30or40;_Colmenero_[h]10or12;and_Oexmelin_[i]10or12,to14.
Icanaffirm,afterathousandTryals,thatIneverfoundmorenorlessthantwenty-five.PerhapsifonewastoseekoutthelargestShellsinthemostfruitfulSoil,andgrowingonthemostflourishingTrees,onemightfindfortyKernels;butasitisnotlikelyoneshouldevermeetwithmore,so,ontheotherhand,itisnotprobableoneshouldeverfindlessthanfifteen,excepttheyareabortive,ortheFruitofaTreewornoutwithAgeinabarrenSoil,orwithoutCulture.
WhenonetakesofftheFilmthatcoversoneoftheKernels,theSubstanceofitappears;whichistender,smooth,andincliningtoavioletColour,andisseeminglydividedintoseveralLobes,tho'inrealitytheyarebuttwo;butveryirregular,anddifficulttobe
disengagedfromeachother,whichweshallexplainmoreclearlyinspeakingofitsVegetation.[k]_Oexmelin_andseveralothershaveimagined,thata_Cocao_-KernelwascomposedoffiveorsixPartsstickingfasttogether;Father_Plumier_himselffellintothisError,andhasledothersintoit[l].IftheKernelbecutintwolength-ways,onefindsattheExtremityofthegreatend,akindofalongish[m]Grain,onefifthofanInchlong,andonefourthPartasbroad,whichisthe_Germ_,orfirstRudimentsofthePlant;butin_European_KernelsthisPartisplacedattheotherend.
Onemayevenseein_France_thisIrregularityoftheLobes,andalsothe_Germ_intheKernelsthatareroastedandcleanedtomakeChocolate.
FOOTNOTES:
[a]_Piso_says(_Montiss.Aromat.cap.18._)thattheBlossomisgreatandofabrightYellow,_Flosestmagnus&flavescensinstarCroci_.AmodernAuthorhastranscribedthis.Errorof_Piso_;_Floribus_,sayshe,_magnispentapetalis&flavis_._Dale_Pharmacologia,_Pag.441_.
[b]Appen.ReiHerbariae._pag._660._tab._444.
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
8/46
[1][2][3][4]SeetheRemarksattheEndofthisTreatise.
[c]_Benzo_saystheygrowripeinaYear,aswellasothersafterhim,_AnnuoSpatiomaturescit,Benzomemorante_.Carol.Cluzio,l.c._AnnuojustamattingensMaturitatemSpatio_.Franc.Hernandes,_apud_Anton.Rech._InHist.Ind.Occidental_,lib.5.c.1.
[d]Itseemslikelythatthe_Spanish_AuthorswhosaytherearefourKindsofthisat_Mexico_,havenobetterFoundationforthedifferencethanthis;andMons._Tournefort_hadreasontosayafterFather_Plumier_,thatheonlyknewoneKindofthisTree.Cacao_SpeciemUnicamnovi_._Append.ReiHerb._pag.660.
[e]_AnewVoyageroundtheWorld._Tom.1.Ch.3.p.69.
[f]Pomet's_GeneralHistoryofDrugs_,Bookvii.Ch.xiv.pag.205.Chomel's_AbridgmentofusualPlants_.Valentin.Hist.Simpliciumreform.lib.2.
[g]NewRelationofthe_EastIndies_.Tom.1.Part2.Ch.19.
[h]AcuriousDiscourseuponChocolate,by_Ant.ColmenerodeCedesma_,PhysicianandChirurgeonat_Paris_1643.
[i]_TheHistoryofAdventures._Tom.1.Pag.423.
[k]Ibid.
[l]InmultasvelutiAmygdalasfissiles._Tournefort_inAppend.ReiHerb._Pag.660.&Tab.444._
[m]Ican'timagineuponwhatFoundation_Oexmelin_couldassert,thatthe_Spaniards_inthemakingoftheirChocolate,usednothingbutthislongishGrain,whichhecalls_Pignon_.AuMilieudesquellesAmandesdeCacao,est,_sayshe_,unpetitPignon,quialaGermeforttendre,&difficileaconserver;c'estdecetteSemencequelesEspaniolsfontla
celebreBoissondeChocolat._Oexmelin_HistoiredesAvanturers,_Tom.1.pag.423_.HeconfirmsmoreplainlythesameFancy,_Pag.426_.
CHAP.II.
OftheChoiceandDispositionofthePlaceforPlanting_Cocao-Trees_.
The_Cocao-Tree_growsnaturallyinseveralCountriesin_America_undertheTorridZone,butchieflyat_Mexico_,intheProvincesof
_Nicaragua_and_Guatimala_,asalsoalongtheBanksoftheRiverofthe_Amazons_[n].LikewiseupontheCoastof_Caraqua_,thatistosay,fromComanatoCartagena[o]andthe_GoldenIsland_.SomealsohavebeenfoundintheWoodsof_Martinico_.
The_Spaniards_and_Portuguese_werethefirsttowhomthe_Indians_communicatedtheUseof_Cocao-Nuts_,whichtheykeptalongtimetothemselveswithoutacquaintingotherNationswithit;whoinrealityknowsolittleofitatthisday,thatsome_Dutch_Corsairs,ignorantoftheValueofsomePrizestheyhadtaken,outofcontemptcastthe
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
9/46
MerchandizeintotheSea,callingitinderision,inveryindifferent_Spanish_,_CacuradeCarnero_[p],TheDungofBeasts.
In1649[q]inthe_Vert_Islands,theyhadneverseenbutoneTreeplanted,whichwasintheGardenofan_English-Man_,anInhabitantoftheIslandof_St.Croix_[r].In1655,the_Caribeans_[s]shewedtoM._duParepet_a_Cocao-Tree_intheWoodsoftheIslandof_Martinico_,whereofhewasGovernour.ThisdiscoverywastheFoundationofseveralothersofthesamekind,intheWoodsofthe_CapeSterre_[t]ofthisIsland.AnditisprobablethattheKernelswhichweretakenoutofthem,weretheOriginalofthose_Cocao-Trees_thathavebeenplantedtheresince.A_Jew_named_Benjamin_plantedthefirstabouttheYear1660,butitwasnottilltwentyortwenty-fiveYearsafter,thattheInhabitantsof_Martinico_apply'dthemselvestotheCultivationof_Cocao-Trees_,andtoraiseNurseriesofthem.
WhenonewouldraiseaNursery,itisnecessary,aboveallthings,tochuseaproperPlace,inrespectofSituation,andaSoilagreeabletotheNatureofit.
ThePlaceshouldbelevel,moist,andnotexposedtoWinds;afresh,and(ifonemaybeallow'dtheExpression)aVirginSoil,indifferentlyfat,light,anddeep.Forthisreason,Groundnewlycleared,whoseSoilisblackandsandy,whichiskeptmoistbyaRiver,anditsBorderssohigh
astoshelteritfromtheWinds,especiallytowardstheSeaCoast,ispreferabletoanyother;andtheyneverfailputtingittothisUse,whentheyaresohappyastofindanyofthissort.
Ihavesaid,_Groundnewlycleared_,thatistosay,whoseWoodiscutdownpurposelyforit;foritisnecessarytoobserve,thattheyatpresentplanttheirNurseriesinthemiddleofWoods,whichhavebeensotimeoutofmind,andthisfortwoweightyReasons:TheFirst,becausetheWoodthatisleftstandingroundit,mayserveasaShelter;andtheSecond,becausethereislessTroubleinweedingorgrubbingit.TheGroundthathasneverproducedanyWeeds,willsendforthbutfew,forwantofSeed.
AsforNurseriesplantedinhighGround,theEarthisneithermoistnordeepenough,andcommonlythechiefRootwhichgrowsdirectlydownwards,cannotpiercethehardEarthwhichitsoonmeetswith.Besides,theWindsaremoreboisterous,andcausetheBlossomstofalloffassoonasblown,andwhenalittlehigh,overturntheTree,whoseRootsarealmostallsuperficial.
ThisisyetworseontheHills,whoseDescentistoosteep;forbesidesthesameInconveniencies,thefallingdownoftheEarthdrawswithitthegoodSoil,andinsensiblylaystheRootsbare.
OnemaythereforeconcludethatalltheseNurseriesarealongtimebeforetheybear,thattheyareneverfruitful,andthattheyare
destroy'dinalittletime.
ItisalsoproperthataNursery,asmuchasmaybe,shouldbesurroundedwithstandingWood;butifitisopenonanyside,itshouldberemedy'dassoonaspossible,byaBorderofseveralRanksofTreescalled_Bananes_[5].
Besidesthis,theNurseriesshouldbemoderateinrespectofMagnitude,fortheSmallhavenotAirenough,andare,asitwere,stifled;andtheveryLargearetooliabletoDryness,andtothegreatWinds,which,in
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
10/46
_America_,theycall_Ouragans_[u].
ThePlaceoftheNurserybeingchosen,andtheBignessdetermined,theyapplythemselvestoclearitoftheWood.TheybeginwithpluckingupthelittlePlants,andbycuttingtheShrubs,andsmallkindsofTrees,andfellingtheTrunksandlargerBranchesofothers;theythenmakePiles,andsetthemonfireinallParts,andsoburndownthelargestTreesofall,tosavethemselvesthetroubleofcuttingthem.
Whenallisburnt,andthereremainsnothingupontheEarth,buttheTrunksofthegreatTreeswhichtheydon'ttroublethemselvestoconsume,andwhentheSpaceiswellcleaned,theymakeAlleysbythehelpofaLine,straitandatequalDistancesfromeachother,andthrustSticksintotheGroundoftwoorthreeFootlong,and5,6,7,8,9or10Feetdistant,oratsuchadistancethattheydesigntoplantthe_Cocao-Trees_,whichtheyrepresent.Afterwardstheyplant_Manioc_intheemptySpaces,takingcarenottocometooneartheSticks.
Onemayobserve,thattheNurseriesplantedatthegreatDistancesofeightortenFeet,areagreatdealmoretroublesometokeepcleaninthefirstYears,asweshallobservehereafter;butthentheyprosperagreatdealbetter,bearmore,andlastlonger.
TheInhabitants,whohaveagreatdealtodo,andhavebutfewSlaves,
planttheTreesnearer,becausebythismeanstheygainroom,andtheyhavelesstroubletokeepitclear;whenafterwardstheTreescometohurtandannoyeachotherbytheirProximity,andtheyhavehadsomeCropstosupplytheirpresentNecessities:orifotherwise,theyareobligedtocutsometogiveAirtotherest.
OntheCoastof_Caraqua_,theyplantthe_Cocao-Trees_at12or15Feetdistance,andtheymakeTrenchestowaterthemfromtimetotimeinthedrySeasons.TheyhappilyexperiencedtheSuccessofthisPracticeat_Martinico_someYearssince.
The_Manioc_[6]isawoodyShrub,whoseRootsbeinggrated,andbakedontheFire,yielda_Cassave_,orMeal,whichservestomakeBreadfor
alltheNativesof_America_.TheyplantitinthenewNurseries,notonlybecauseitisnecessarytosupplythe_Negroes_withFood,butalsoithinderstheGrowthofWeeds,andservestoshadetheyoung_Cocao-Trees_,whosetenderShoots,andeventhesecondLeaves,arenotabletoresistthescorchingBeamsoftheSun.Forthisreasontheywaittillthe_Manioc_shadestheFeetoftheSticksbeforetheyplantthe_Cocao-Trees_,inthemannerthatweshalldescribeinthefollowingChapter.
FOOTNOTES:
[n]RelationoftheRiverofthe_Amazons_.
[o]IhaveaddedthisExplication,because_Pomet_makesitcomefrom_Caraqua_,oftheProvinceof_Nicaragua_in_NewSpain_,whichisdistantfrom_Caracas_5or600Leagues.V.VII.Chap.xiv.
[p]ThomasGage,_Tom.1.Part2.Chap.19.Pag.150._
[q]Rochefort's_NaturalHistoryofthe_Antilloes_.Book1.Chap.6.Artic.16._
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
11/46
[r]Father_Tertre_'sHist.ofthe_Antilloes_.Tom.2.p.184.
[s]ThesearetheSavageNativesofthe_Antilloes_.
[t]ThatPartiscall'dso,whichliesexposedtotheWindswhichcomealwaysfromthe_North-East_tothe_South-East_.ThatPartundertheWind,iscalled_Basse-Terre_.
[5]SeethefifthRemarkattheEndoftheTreatise.
[u]TheseviolentandoutrageousWindsblowfromallPointsoftheCompassintwenty-fourHours.AndthisisonematerialthingtodistinguishthemfromtheregularandcommonWindsofthisClimate.
[6]SeetheRemarkatthesixthArticle.
CHAP.III.
OftheMethodofPlantingaNursery,andtocultivateittilltheFruitcomestoMaturity.
_Cocao-Trees_areplantedfromtheKernelorSeed,fortheNatureoftheWoodwillnotadmitofSlips:Theyopena_Cocao-Shell_,andaccordingastheyhaveoccasion,takeouttheKernels,andplantthemonebyone,beginning,forexample,atthefirstStick:Theypluckitup,andwithasortofaSetting-StickmadeofIron,andwellsharpened,theymakeaHole,andturningtheIronabout,cutoffthelittleRootsthatmaydohurt.TheyplanttheKernelthreeorfourInchesdeep,andthrustintheSticktheybeforehadpluck'dupalittleononeside,toserveasaMark:andsotheyproceedfromSticktoStick,andfromRanktoRank,tilltheyhavegonethroughthewholeNursery.
Itmustbeobserved,1._NottoplantinadrySeason._Onemayindeed
plantinanyMonthoftheYear,oranyMoon,neworold,whentheSeasoniscool,andthePlaceready;butitiscommonlybelieved,thatplantingfrom_September_to_Christmas_,theTreesbearmorethaninsomeMonths.
2._NottoplantanybutthelargestKernels,andsuchasareplump_:ForsinceinthefinestShellstherearesometimeswitheredKernels,itwouldbeveryimprudenttomakeuseofthem.
3._ToplantthegreatEndsoftheKernelslowermost._ThisisthatwhichisheldbyalittleThreadtotheCenteroftheShell,whenonetakestheKernelout.IfthelittleEndwasplaceddownward,theFootoftheTreewouldbecomecrooked,neitherwoulditprosper;andifitwas
placedsideways,theFootwouldnotsucceedverywell.
4._ToputtwoorthreeKernelsateveryStick_,thatifbyanyMischancethetenderShootsofoneortwoarebrokenbyInsects,orotherwise,theremaybeonelefttosupplytheDefect.IfnobadAccidenthappen,youhavetheadvantageofchusingthestraitestandmostlikelyShoot.Butitisnotbesttocutupthesupernumeraryonestillthatwhichischosenisgrownup,and,accordingtoallappearance,outofdanger.
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
12/46
TheKernelscomeupintenortwelveDays,moreorless,accordingastheSeason,moreorlessfavourable,hastensorbackenstheirGrowth:ThelongishGrainoftheGermbeginningtoswell,sendsforththelittleRootdownwards,whichafterwardsbecomesthechiefStayoftheTree,andupwardsitpushesouttheShoot,whichisanEpitomyoftheTrunkandtheBranches.ThesePartsencreasing,anddiscoveringthemselvesmoreandmore,thetwoLobesoftheKernelalittleseparatedandbentback,appearfirstoutoftheEarth,andregaintheirnaturalPosition,inproportionastheShootrises,andthenseparatethemselvesintirely,andbecometwoLeavesofadifferentShape,ofanobscureGreen,thick,unequal,and,asitwere,shrivel'dup,andmakewhattheycallthe_Ears_ofthePlant.TheShootappearsatthesametime,andisdividedintotwotenderLeavesofbrightGreen:TothesetwofirstLeaves,oppositetoeachother,succeedtwomore,andtotheseathirdPair.TheStalkorTrunkrisesinproportion,andthenceforwardduringaYear,orthereabouts.
ThewholeCultivationofthe_Cocao-Tree_maythenbereducedtothePracticeoftwoThings.
_First_,Toover-lookthemduringthefirstfifteenDays;thatistosay,toplantnewKernelsintheroomofthosethatdonotcomeup,orwhoseShootshavebeendestroy'dbyInsects,whichveryoftenmakedreadfulHavockamongthesePlants,evenwhenonewouldthinktheyare
outofdanger.SomeInhabitantsmakeNurseriesa-part,andtransplantthemtothePlaceswheretheyarewanting:butastheydonotallgrow,especiallywhentheyarealittletoobig,ortheSeasonnotfavourable,andbecausethegreatestpartofthosethatdogrowlanguishalongtime,italwaysseem'dtomemorepropertosetfreshKernels;andIampersuaded,iftheConsequencesaredulyweighed,itwillbepractisedforthefuture.
_Secondly_,NottoletanyWeedsgrowintheNursery,buttocleanseitcarefullyfromoneendtotheother,andtakingcare,aboveallthings,nottoletanyHerborWeedgrowuptoSeed;forifitshouldhappensobutonce,itwillbeverydifficultthenceforwardstorootthosetroublesomeGuestsout,andtokeeptheNurseryclean,becausetheCold
inthisCountryneverinterruptsVegetation.
ThisWeedingshouldbecontinuedtilltheTreesarebecomelarge,andtheirBranchesspreading,castsuchaShadeastohindertheWeedsfromcomingup;andafterwards,theLeavesfallingfromtheTrees,andcoveringtheEarth,willcontributetostiflethemintirely.WhenthistroublesomeBusinessofWeedingisended,itwillbesufficienttooverlookthemonceaMonth,andpluckuphereandtherethosefewWeedsthatremain,andtocarrythemfarintotheWoodsforfearofSeeds.
Whenthe_Cocao-Trees_arenineMonthsold,the_Manioc_shouldthenbegintobepluck'dup;anditshouldbemanagedso,thatinthreeMonthstimethereshouldbenoneleft.TheremaybeaRowortwo
replantedineachAlley,andCucumbers,Citruls,and[x]_Giraumonts_maybesow'dinthevoidSpaces,or_Caribean_Coleworts;becausethesePlantshavinggreatspreadingLeaves,areverypropertokeeptheEarthcoolandmoist,andtostiflethenoisomeWeeds.Whenthe_Cocao-Trees_cometoshadetheGroundentirely,thenitwillbenecessarytopluckupeverything,fornothingthenwillgrowbeneath'em.
The_Cocao-Trees_ofoneYearoldhavecommonlyaTrunkoffourFeethigh,andbegintospread,bysendingoutfiveBranchesatthetop,allatatime,whichformsthatwhichtheycallthe_Crown_ofa
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
13/46
_Cocao-Tree_.ItseldomhappensthatanyofthesefiveBranchesarewanting,andifbyanyAccident,orcontrarytotheOrderofNature,ithasbutthreeorfour,theTreenevercomestogood,anditwillbebettertocutitoff,andwaitforanewCrown,whichwillnotbelongbeforeitisform'd.
IfattheendoftheYearthe_Manioc_isnotpluckedup,theywillmaketheTreesbemoreslowinbearing;andtheirTrunksrunninguptoohigh,willbeweak,slender,andmoreexposedtotheWinds.Iftheyshouldbecrowned,theirCrownswillbetooclose;andthechiefBranchesnotopeningthemselvesenough,theTreeswillneverbesufficientlydisengaged,andwillnotspreadsomuchastheyoughttodo.
WhenalltheTrunksarecrowned,theychusethefinestShoots,andcutupthesupernumeraryoneswithoutmercy;forifthisisnotdoneoutofhand,itwillbedifficulttopersuadeone'sselfafterwards:thoitisnotpossiblebutthatTreesplacedsoneareachother,shouldbehurtfultoeachotherintheend.
TheTreesarenosoonercrown'd,buttheysendforth,fromtimetotime,anInchortwoabovetheCrown,newShoots,whichtheycallSuckers:IfNaturewaspermittedtoplayherpart,theseSuckerswouldsoonproduceasecondCrown,thatagainnewSuckers,whichwillproduceathird,_&c._Thusthe_Cocao-Trees_proceed,thatarewildanduncultivated,
whicharefoundintheWoodsof_Cape-Sterre_in_Martinico_.ButseeingalltheseCrownsdobuthindertheGrowthofthefirst,andalmostbringittonothing,thoitistheprincipal;andthattheTree,iflefttoitself,runsuptoohigh,andbecomestooslender;theyshouldtakecareeveryMonthwhentheygotoweedit,orgathertheFruit,topruneit;thatistosay,tocutorlopoffalltheSuckers.
Idon'tknowwhethertheyhaveyetthoughtitpropertoprune,anymorethantograftupon_Cocao-Trees_:ThereishoweverasortofPruningwhich,inmyOpinion,wouldbeveryadvantageoustoit.ThesesortofTrees,forexample,havealways(somemorethanothers)deadBranchesuponthem,chieflyupontheExtremitiesoftheBoughs;andthereisnoroomtodoubtbutitwouldbeverypropertolopofftheseuseless
Branches,paringthemoffwiththepruningKnifeeventotheQuick.ButastheAdvantagethatwillaccruefromitwillneitherbesoimmediate,norsoapparentastheTimeandPainsthatisemploy'dinit;itisveryprobablethatthisCarewillbeneglected,andthatitwillbeesteem'dasLabourlost.Buthowever,the_Spaniards_donotthinkso;for,onthecontrary,theyareverycarefultocutoffallthedeadSprigs:forwhichreasontheirTreesaremoreflourishingthanours,andyieldmuchfinerFruit.Ibelievetheyhavenotthesamecareingraftingthem,nordoIthinkanyPersonhashithertoattemptedtodoit:Iampersuadednevertheless,thatthe_Cocao-Trees_wouldbebetterforit.IsitnotbytheassistanceofgraftingourFruitTreesinseveralmanners,(whichwereoriginallywild,andfoundbychanceintheWoods)thattheyhaveatlengthfoundtheArtofmakingthembearsuchexcellentFruit?
Inproportionasthe_Cocao-Trees_grow,theLeavesupontheTrunksfalloffbylittleandlittle,whichoughttofalloffontheirownaccord;forwhentheyareentirelybare,theyhavenotlongtoflourish:ThefirstBlossomscommonlyfalloff,andtheripeFruitisnottobeexpectedinlesstimethanthreeYears,andthatifitbeinagoodSoil.ThefourthYeartheCropismoderate,andthefifthitisasgreataseveritwillbe;forthentheTreescommonlybearalltheYearabout,andhaveBlossomsandFruitofallAges.SomeMonthsindeedthereisalmostnone,andothers,theyareloaded;andtowardstheSolstices,
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
14/46
thatis,in_June_and_December_,theybearmost.
AsintheTempestscalled_Ouragans_theWindblowsfromallPointsoftheCompassintwenty-fourHours,itwillbewellifitdoesnotbreakinattheweakestPlaceoftheNursery,anddoagreatdealofMischief,whichitisnecessarytoremedywithallpossibleexpedition.IftheWindhasonlyoverturn'dtheTreeswithoutbreakingthechiefRoot,thenthebestMethodthatcanbetakeningoodSoil,istoraisethemupagain,andputthemintheirPlaces,proppingthemupwithaFork,andputtingintheEarthaboutitverycarefully:Bythismeanstheywillbere-establish'dinlessthansixMonths,andtheywillbearagainasifnoharmhadcometothem.InbadSoil,itwillbebettertoletthemlie,puttingtheEarthabouttheRoots,andcultivateattheirlowerParts,orFeet,thebestgrownSucker,andthatwhichisnearesttheRoots,cuttingoffcarefullyalltherest:TheTreeinthisConditionwillnotgiveoverblossomingandbearingFruit;andwhenintwoYearstimetheSuckerisbecomeanewTree,theoldTreemustbecutoffhalfaFootdistantfromtheSucker.
FOOTNOTES:
[x]TheseareCitrulswhosePulpisveryyellow.
CHAPIV.
Ofthegatheringofthe_Cocao-Nuts_,andtheMannerofmakingthemsweat,andofdryingthemthattheymaybebroughtsoundinto_Europe_.
TheObservationswhichwemadeinthefirstChapter,concerningtheAlterationsoftheColouroftheNuts,giveusinformationofthetimethattheybecomeripe.ItwillbepropertogatherthemwhenalltheShellhaschangedColour,andwhenthereisbutasmallSpotbelowwhich
shallremaingreen.TheygofromTreetoTree,andfromRowtoRow,andwithforkedSticksorPoles,theycausetheripeNutstofalldown,takinggreatcarenottotouchthosethatarenotso,aswellastheBlossoms:Theyemploythemosthandy_Negroes_inthisWork,andothersfollowthemwithBasketstogatherthem,andlaytheminHeaps,wheretheyremainfourDayswithoutbeingtouch'd.
IntheMonthsthattheybearmost,theygatherthemforaFortnighttogether;intheless-fruitfulSeasons,theyonlygatherthemfromMonthtoMonth.IftheKernelswereleftinShellsmorethanfourDays,theywouldsprit,orbegintogrow,andbequitespoiled[y]:ItisthereforenecessarytoshellthemonthefifthDayintheMorningatfarthest.Todothis,theystrikeonthemiddleoftheShellswithaBitofWoodto
cleavethem,andthenpullthemopenwiththeirFingers,andtakeouttheKernels,whichtheyputinBaskets,castingtheemptyShellsupontheGround,thattheymaywiththeLeaves,beingputrified,servetofattentheEarth,andsupplythePlaceofDung.
TheyafterwardscarryalltheKernelsintoaHouse,andlaythemonaheapuponakindoflooseFloorcover'dwithLeavesof_Balize_[7],whichareaboutfourFeetlong,andtwentyInchesbroad;thentheysurrounditwithPlankscover'dwiththesameLeaves,makingakindofGranary,whichmaycontainthewholePileofKernels,whenspread
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
15/46
abroad.TheycoverthewholewiththelikeLeaves,andlaysomePlanksoverall:theKernelsthuslaidonaheap,andcover'dcloseonallsides,donotfailtogrowwarm,bytheFermentationoftheirinsensibleParticles;andthisiswhattheycall_Sweating_,inthoseParts.
TheyuncovertheKernelsMorningandEvening,andsendthe_Negroes_amongthem;whowiththeirFeetandHands,turnthemtopsyturvy,andthencoverthemupasbefore,withthesameLeavesandthesamePlanks.TheycontinuetodothisforfiveDays,attheendofwhichtheyhavecommonlysweatenough,whichisdiscover'dbytheirColour,whichgrowsagreatdealdeeper,andveryruddy.
ThemoretheKernelssweat,themoretheylosetheirWeightandBitterness:butiftheyhavenotsweatenough,theyaremorebitter,andsmellsour,andsometimessprit.Tosucceedwelltherefore,thereshouldbeacertainMediumobserved,whichisonlytobelearntbyuse.
WhentheKernelshavesweatenough,theylaythemouttoair,andexposethemtotheSuntodrythem,inthemannerfollowing.
Theypreparebefore-hand,severalBenchesabouttwoFoothigh,inanevenCourtappointedforthatpurpose;theylayupontheseBenchesseveralMatsmadeofpiecesofReedssplitintwo,togetherwithBandsmadeof_Mahot_Bark[8].UpontheseMatstheyputtheKernelsabouttwo
InchesinheightandmoveandturnthemveryoftenwithaproperPieceofWoodforthefirsttwoDays.AtNighttheywrapuptheKernelsintheMats,whichtheycoverwith_Balize_LeavesforfearofRain,andtheydothesameintheday-timewhenitislikelytorain.Thosewhoareafraidofhavingthemstolen,lockthemup.
TherearesomeInhabitantswhokeepBoxesaboutfiveFeetlong,andtwobroad,andthreeorfourInchesdeep,onpurposetodrytheKernels:ThereisthisAdvantageinthem,thatinthegreatestRainsandsuddenestShowers,theymaypresentlybepiledoneonthetopofanother,sothatnonebutthetop-mostwillwantaCover;whichissoondonewiththeaforesaidLeaves,andanemptyBoxturn'dup-sidedown.ButthatwhichmakestheUsageofMatspreferable,is,thattheAirmay
passthroughbeneath,betweenthePartitionoftheReeds,andsodrytheKernelsbetter.BoxeswhoseBottomsaremadelikeaSievewithstrongBrassWire,wouldbeveryexcellent;butthentheymustbemadein_Europe_,whichwouldbeaconsiderableCharge.
WhentheKernelshavesweatenough,theymustbeexposedupontheMatsasmuchasnecessary:IfRainisforeseenthatislikelytolast,itwillbebesttoletthemsweathalfaDayless.Itisobservable,thatafewhoursRainatfirst,insteadofdoinganyharm,makesthemmorebeautiful,andbetterconditioned.InfairWeather,insteadofthisRain,itwillbepropertoexposethemtotheDewforthefirstNights.TheRainofawholeDayortwowilldonoharm,iftheyarenotcoveredbeforetheyhavehadtheBenefitoftheSun,foraDay,orhalfaDayat
least.ForafteraDay'sSun-shine,theyaretobewrap'dintheMat,asbeforedirected;butifitbehalfaDay'sRainonly,thentheyareonlycoveredwith_Balize_LeavesintheNight,keptonwithlittleStoneslaidateachEnd:ButiftheRainbetoolong,itmakesthemsplit,andthentheywillnotkeeplong;theythereforemakeChocolateofitimmediately.
IftheKernelshavenotsweatenough,ortheywrapthemtoosoonintheMat,theyaresubjecttospritorgerme,whichmakesthembitter,andgoodfornothing.
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
16/46
WhentheKernelshavebeenoncewrappedinaMat,andbeguntodry,caremustbetakenthattheydonotgrowmoistagain;theymustthereforebewellstirr'dfromtimetotime,thattheymaybethorowlydry'd,whichyoumayknowbytakingaHandfulinyourHand,andshuttingit:ifitcracks,thenitistimetoputthemintoyourStore-house,andtoexposethemtosale.
ThosewhowouldgainaReputationingivingoutagoodMerchandize,beforetheypackitupinVessels,pickit,andthrowasidethelittle,wither'd,andthinKernels,whicharenotonlyunsightly,butrendertheChocolatesomethingworse.
AfterwardstheKernelsofthe_Cocao-Nut_aredriedintheSun,beforetheyarebroughtto_Europe_,andsoldbytheDruggistsandGrocers,whodistinguishitintogreatandsmall,andintothatof_Caraqua_,andthatofthe_French_Islands,thowithnogoodFoundation,forinthePlacesthemselvestheymakenomentionofthisDistinction:Itthereforeseemslikely,thattheMerchantsfindtheiraccountinsortingit,sinceKernelsproceedingfromthesameTree,andfromthesameNut,arenotalwaysofthesamebigness.Itisindeedtrue,thatifoneParcelofKernelsbecomparedwithanother,theonemayconsistofbiggerthantheother,whichmayarisefromtheAgeorVigouroftheTrees,orfromtheNatureoftheSoil;butcertainlythereisnokindofKernelswhichmay
becalledGreat,asadistinctKind,norconsequentlynootherwhichcanproperlybesaidtobeSmall.
TheKernelsthatcometousfromtheCoastof_Caraqua_,aremoreoily,andlessbitter,thanthosethatcomefromthe_French_Islands,andin_France_and_Spain_theypreferthemtotheselatter:Butin_Germany_,andintheNorth(_FidessitpenesAutorem_)theyhaveaquiteoppositeTaste.SeveralPeoplemixthatof_Caraqua_withthatoftheIslands,halfinhalf,andpretendbythisMixturetomaketheChocolatebetter.Ibelieveinthebottom,thedifferenceofChocolatesisnotconsiderable,sincetheyareonlyobligedtoencreaseordiminishtheProportionofSugar,accordingastheBitternessoftheKernelsrequireit.Foritmustbeconsidered,aswehavealreadysaid,thatthereis
butonekindof_Cocao-Tree_,whichgrowsasnaturallyintheWoodsof_Martinico_,asinthoseoftheCoastof_Caraqua_,thattheClimatesarealmostthesame,andconsequentlytheTemperatureoftheSeasonsequal,andthereforetherecannotbeanyintrinsickDifferencebetweentheseFruitsofanygreatmoment.
AstotheoutwardDifferencethatisobserved,itcanarisefromnothingbuttheRichnessoftheSoil,orthecontrary;fromthedifferentCulture,andfromtheCareorNegligenceoftheLabourersandthosethatprepareit,fromthetimeofitsgathering,tothetimeofitsDelivery,andperhapsfromallthreetogether.Itistobeobservedat_Martinico_,thatthe_Cocao-Trees_prosperbetterinsomePartsthanothers,merelyfromtheDifferenceoftheSoil,beingmoreorlessrich,
ormoreorlessmoist.
IhavehadtheExperienceofoneofmyFriends,concerningwhatrelatestotheCultivationandPreparationofthisTreeanditsFruit,whichdemonstratesthattheymayaddtoitsValue.ThisGentleman,withagreatdealofApplicationandThought,foundoutthewaytopreparethefinestMerchandizeoftheIsland,whichwasprefer'dbytheMerchantstoalltherest,andboreagreaterPricethanthatofanyofhisNeighbours.
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
17/46
TheKernelsof_Caraqua_areflattish,andforBulkandFigurenotunlikeourlargeBeans.Thoseof_St.Domingo_,_Jamaica_,and_Cuba_,aregenerallylargerthanthoseofthe_Antilloes_.ThemorebulkytheKernelsare,andbettertheyhavebeennourished,thelessWastethereisaftertheyhavebeenroastedandcleansed,whichsomeYearsagowasanAdvantagetothoseof_Caraqua_.Butatpresent,bytheRegulationfromtheMonthof_April_,1717,theKernelsofourColoniespaybutTwo-penceDutyforEntry,whereasForeignerspayalwaysFifteen:ThesethirteenPencedifferencemakesuchampleamendsforthesmallWaste,thatthereisagreatdealofreasontohope,thatforthetimetocome,therewillbenonebuttheCurious,andPeoplethatdonotvaluetheExpence,thatwillmakeuseoftheChocolateof_Caraqua_,bywayofpreferencetothatofthe_French_Islands,andthattheCheapnessofthelatterwilldoubletheConsumptionatleast.
Thebest_Cocao-Nuts_haveverybrownfirmShells,andwhentheKernelistakenout,itoughttobeplump,wellnourish'd,andsleek;oftheColourofaHazle-Nutontheoutside,butmoreincliningtoaRedwithin;itsTastealittlebitterandastringent,notatallsourormouldy[z].Inaword,withoutanySmell,andnotworm-eaten.
TheFruitofthe_Cocao-Tree_isthemostoilythatNaturehasproduced,andithasthisadmirablePrerogative,nevertogrowrankletitbeeversoold,whichallotherFruitdothatareanalogoustoitinQualities;
suchas_Nuts_,_Almonds_,_Pine-Apple-Kernels_,_PistachoeNuts_,_Olives_,&c.
Therearealsoimportedfrom_America_,_Cocao-Kernel-Cakes_ofaboutaPoundweighteach;andasthisPreparationisthefirstandprincipalintheCompositionofChocolate,itwillbepropertoaddheretheMannerofmakingit.
The_Indians_,fromwhomweborrowit,arenotveryniceindoingit;theyroasttheKernelsinearthenPots,thenfreethemfromtheirSkins,andafterwardscrushandgrindthembetweentwoStones,andsoformCakesofitwiththeirHands.
The_Spaniards_,moreindustriousthanthe_Savages_,andatthisdayotherNationsaftertheirExample,chuseoutthebestKernels[a],andthemostfresh:OfthesetheyputabouttwoPoundsinagreatIronShoveloveraclearFire,stirringthemcontinuallywithalarge_Spatula_,solongthattheymayberoastedenoughtohavetheirSkinscomeoffeasily,whichshouldbedoneonebyone[b],layingthema-part;andtakinggreatheedthattherottenandmouldyKernelsbethrownaway,andallthatcomesoffthegoodones;fortheseSkinsbeingleftamongtheChocolate,willnotdissolveinanyLiquor,norevenintheStomach,andfalltothebottomofChocolate-Cups,asiftheKernelshadnotbeencleansed.
IfonewascurioustoweightheKernelsattheDruggists,andthenweigh
themagainaftertheyareroastedandcleansed,oneshouldfindthattherewouldbeaboutasixthPartwasted,moreorless,accordingtotheNatureandQualitiesoftheKernels;thatistosay,ifyoubought(forexample)30Pounds,therewouldremainentirelycleansed,neartwenty-five.
AlltheKernelsbeingthusroastedandcleansedatdiverstimes,theyputthemoncemoretoroastinthesameIronShovel,butoveramoregentleFire,andstirthemwiththe_Spatula_withoutceasingtilltheyareroastedallalike,andasmuchastheyoughttobe;whichonemay
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
18/46
discoverbytheirTaste,andtheirdark-brownColour,withoutbeingblack.ThewholeArtconsistsinavoidingthetwoExtremes,ofnotroastingthemenough,androastingthemtoomuch;thatistosay,tilltheyareburnt.Iftheyarenotroastedenough,theyretainadisagreeableHarshnessofTaste;andiftheyareroastedsomuchastoburnthem,besidestheBitternessandillTastethattheycontract,theylosetheirOilynessentirely,andthebestpartoftheirgoodQualities.
In_France_,wheretheyareveryapttorunintoExtremes,theyaremightyfondoftheburntTaste,andtheblackColour,asiftheywereproperMarksofgoodChocolate,notconsideringthat,QuantityforQuantity,theymayaswellputsomuchCharcoalasburntChocolate.ThisOpinionisnotonlyagreeabletoReasonandgoodSense,butisalsoconfirmedbytheunanimousConsentofallthathavewrittenonthisSubject;andIcanaffirm,thatitisauthorizedbytheuniversalConsentofall_America_.
WhentheKernelsaredulyroasted,andwellcleansed,theyputthemintoalargeMortartoreducethemintoagrossPowder,whichtheyafterwardsgrinduponaStonetillitisveryfine,whichrequiresamoreparticularExplication.
TheymakechoiceofaStonewhichnaturallyresiststheFire,notsosoftastorubawayeasily,norsohardastoendurepolishing.Theycut
itfrom16to18Inchesbroad,andabout27or30long,and3inthickness,andhollowedinthemiddleaboutanInchandahalfdeep.ThisStoneshouldbefix'duponaFrameofWoodorIron,alittlehigherononesidethantheother:Under,theyplaceaPanofCoalstoheattheStone,sothattheHeatmeltingtheoilyPartsoftheKernels,andreducingittotheConsistenceofHoney,makesiteasyfortheIronRoller,whichtheymakeuseofforthesakeofitsStrength,tomakeitsofineastoleaveneitherLump,northeleastHardness.ThisRollerisaCylinderofpolish'dIron,twoInchesindiameter,andabouteighteenlong,havingateachEndawoodenHandleofthesameThickness,andsixIncheslong,fortheWorkmantoholdby.
WhenthePasteisgroundasmuchasisthoughtnecessary,theyputit
hotinMouldsmadeofTin,wheretheyleaveit,anditbecomeshardinaverylittletime.TheShapeoftheseMouldsisarbitrary,andeveryonemayhavethemmadeaccordingtohisFancy;butthecylindrickones,whichwillholdabout2or3PoundsofChocolate,seemtometobemostproper;becausethethickertheyare,thelongertheykeepgood,andmaybecommodiouslyheldwhenthereisoccasiontoscrapethem.TheseRollsoughttobewrappedinPaper,andkeptinadryPlace:itshouldalsobeobserved,thattheyareverysusceptibleofgoodandillSmells,andthatitisgoodtokeepthem5or6Monthsbeforetheyareused.
NowtheKernelsbeingsufficientlyrubb'dandgroundupontheStone,aswehavejustdirected,ifyouwouldcompleattheCompositionintheMass,thereisnothingmoretobedone,thantoaddtothisPastea
PowdersiftedthroafineSearce,composedofSugar,Cinnamon,and,ifitbedesired,of_Vanilla_[c],accordingtotheQuantitiesandProportions,whichweshallteachintheThirdPartofthisTreatise;andmixitwellupontheStone,thebettertoblenditandincorporateittogether,andthentofashionitinMouldsmadeofTinintheformofLozengesofabout4Ounceseach,orifdesired,halfaPound.
FOOTNOTES:
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
19/46
[y]Forthisreason,whentheywouldsend_Cocao-Nuts_totheneighbouringIslandsfrom_Martinico_,thattheymayhavewherewithaltoplant,theyareverycarefulnottogatherthemtilltheTransportVesselisreadytosail,andtomakeuseofthemassoonastheyarrive.ForthisreasonalsoitisnotpossiblethattheSpaniards,whentheydesigntopreserveNutsforplanting,shouldletthembewither'dandperfectlydry,andthatafterwardstheyshouldtaketheKernelsofthesesameNuts,anddrythemverycarefullyintheShade,andafterall,raiseaNurserywiththem,as_Oexmelin_reports,_HistoryofAdventurers_,Tom.1.Pag.424.
[7]SeetheseventhNotehereafter.
[8]The_Mahot_isaShrub,whoseLeavesareroundandfeelsoftlikethoseof_Guimauve_;itsBarkeasilycomesoff,whichtheydivideintolongSlangs,whichservesforPackthreadandCordstotheInhabitantsandNatives.
[z]ItgetsthisTasteeitherbybeinglaidinamoistPlace,orbybeingwetbySea-WaterinthePassage.
[a]AstheKernelsareneversoclean,buttheremaybeStones,Earth,andbadonesamongthem;itwillbenecessary,beforetheyareused,tosifttheminaSievethatwillletthesethingspassthrough,whileit
retainstheKernels.
[b]TheArtists,tomakethisWorkmoreexpeditious,andtogaintime,putathickMatuponaTable,andspreadtheKernelsuponitastheycomehotfromtheShovel,androllaRollerofIronoverthemtocrackandgetofftheSkinsoftheKernels;afterwardtheywinnowallinasplinterSieve,tilltheKernelsbecomeentirelycleansed.
[c]Whatthisis,youwillfindhereafter.
THENaturalHISTORYOFCHOCOLATE.
PARTII.
OfthePropertiesofChocolate.
Wehavehithertotreatedof_Chocolate_,asitwere,superficially,and
asitpresentsitselftoourSenses.WecomenexttoexamineitsintrinsickQualities,andtosearchintoitsNature:Asfaraswecan,wewilldiscoverwhatReason,join'dtolongExperience,hastaughtusconcerningthesalutaryPropertiesofthisFruit.
CHAP.I.
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
20/46
OftheoldPrejudicesagainstChocolate.
Toproceedmoremethodically,andwithgreaterClearnessinourEnquiriesconcerning_Chocolate_,itseemspropertosetPeoplerightaboutthePrejudiceswhichafalsePhilosophyhasinstilledintomostAuthorswhohavewroteuponthisSubject;theImpressionswhereof,areyetverydeeplyingravenintheMindsofagreatNumberofPeople.
The_Spaniards_,whowerefirstacquaintedwithChocolateaftertheConquestofthenewWorld,havelaiditdownforanundoubtedTruth,that_Chocolate_iscoldanddry,participatingoftheNatureofEarth.TheyhavesupportedthisDeterminationneitherwithReasonnorExperience;nordotheyknowfromwhencetheylearntit;perhapstheyhavetakenitupontheWords,andfromtheTraditionoftheInhabitantsoftheCountry.Letthatbeasitwill,itisnaturalfromfalsePrinciplestodrawfalseConclusions,ofwhichthetwoprincipalareasfollow.
Thefirstis,ThatChocolatebeingbyNaturecold,itoughtnottobeusedwithoutbeingmixedwithSpices,whicharecommonlyhot,thatsotheymight,bothtogether,becometemperateandwholesome.ThiswastheJargonandPracticeofthoseTimes.ForthesameReasontheancientPhysicianserroneouslyimaginingthat_Opium_wascoldinthefourth
Degree,neverfail'dtocorrectthispretendedColdnessintheirnarcotickCompositions,withDrugsextremelyhot,as_Euphorbium_,_Pellitory_,_Pepper_,&c.
TheirsecondConclusionwas,ThatChocolatebeingdryandearthy,andfromthencesupposedtobeofastyptickandastringentQuality;ifitwasnotcorrected,mustnecessarilybreedObstructionsinthe_Viscera_,andbringonaCacochimy,andagreatNumberofotherincurableDiseases.
ThesePrejudiceshavefromthe_Spaniards_pass'dintootherNations.Toprovethis,itwillbeunnecessarytociteagreatNumberofAuthors,forwhoeverhasreadone,hasreadthemall,thelaterhavingdone
nothingbutcopytheformer;theyhaveevensometimesimprovedtheirDreams,andexaggeratedthispretendedColdnessofChocolate,andatlengthpush'dtheMattersofar,astomakeitakindofcoldPoison;andifitwastakentoExcess,itwouldbringonaConsumption[1].
"MexiacifrigetnativaCocaiTemperies,tantoq;exceditFrigoreutinternoxianedubitemglandescensereVenena."_Thom.Strozzae_deMentispotuseudeCocolatisOpificio,_lib.3_.
"HincsiquissoloCocolatisFomiteVitamextrahat,atq;assuetanegetCibiPrandia,sensimcontrahetexsuetomarcentemCorporaTabem."
ItisnotveryextraordinarythatPeoplewhoaremorereadyto_believe_
thanto_examine_,(suchastheWorldisfullof)shouldgiveintotheunanimousOpinionofsomanyAuthors;anditwouldbestrangeiftheywerenotcarry'ddownbytheStreamofaPrejudicesogeneral.ButIcannotsufficientlyadmirethat_Chocolate_beingsomuchdecry'd,hasnotbeenentirelylaidasideasunfitforUse;withoutdoubttherewasnothingbutthedailyExperienceofitsgoodEffects,whichcouldsupportit,andhinderitfromgivingwaytoCalumny.
NowtooverturnthisoldSystem,itissufficient,inmyOpinion,toobservewithhowlittleSkillandPenetrationtheythentreatedofthe
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
21/46
wholeNaturalHistory;oneoughtnottobeamazedthattheyhaveaffirmed_Chocolate_tobecoldanddry,inanAgewhen,forExample,theycouldsay_Camphire_wascoldandmoist,whichisakindofResin,fromwhenceoneDropofWatercannotbeextracted,whosesharpTaste,andpenetratingSmell,joinedtotheextremeVolatilityandInflammabilityofitsParticles,eveninWateritself,aresuchevidentSignsofitsHeat,thatitisdifficulttoconceiveuponwhataccounttheypersuadethemselvesofthecontrary.
TheQualitiesofChocolatearenotindeedsoremarkable,norsoactive,asthoseofCamphire;but,withtheleastAttention,onemayeasilydiscern,thattheQuantityofOilthatitcontains,andtheBitternessthatisperceivableinTasting,arenottheMarksofColdness,sinceallBittersareesteem'dhot,andsinceOilisaMatterveryneara-kinto,andnecessaryforFire.ThisisveryneartheReasoningofacelebratedPhysicianat_Rome_[2]againsttheoldOpinion:_Asforme_,sayshe,_IamofanotherJudgment;IbelievethatChocolateisrather_temperate_than_cold_,andIrefermyselftotheDecisionofeveryingeniousPersonthatwillbeatthepainstotasteandexamineit._
TheseReflectionswillbefartherconfirmedinthefirstSectionofthefollowingChapter,whereweshallexperimentallydemonstratethatChocolateisaSubstanceverytemperate,yieldingsoftandwholesomeNourishment,incapableofdoinganyHarm.Andifthisintrinsick
Coldnessisnomoretobefeared,itmustbeown'd,thatitwillbehenceforwardridiculous,ifnotpernicious,tojoinitwithhotacridSpices,morelikelytoalteranddestroyitsgoodandrealQualities,thantocorrectthebadoneswhichithasnot:IneverthelessdonotdoubtbutthePleasantnessoftheSmell,andthefavouriteTasteofseveralagreeableSpices,beingprettymuchlikedinthisMixture,willhavetheirPartizans;who,moredelightedwithapresentGratification,thanafraidoftheinsensiblePrejudicethattheseIngredientsbringtotheirHealth,willnotresolvetoleavethemoff.ThothesewillbenolongertheCorrectorsofChocolate,yettheywillservetoseasonit,withwhichtheywillpleasetheirTaste,withouttroublingthemselveswiththeConsequences.ButthosePersonswhowillgivethemselvesthetroubleofthinking,andaremoretractableandlesssensual,will
wiselyabstainfromsuchExtreams,andtheirModerationwillnotbeunattendedwithBenefit.HealthissovaluableaBlessing,thattheCaretogainandpreserveit,oughttosupersedeanyotherConsideration.
AstothepretendedObstructionswhichChocolateissaidtooccasionfromitsastrictiveQuality,theyaresofarfrombeingafraidofitin_America_,thattheyhavefoundbyExperienceaVertuedirectlycontrarytoit;forseveralyoungWomen,subjecttotheWhites,havebeencuredofthisDistemper,byeatingaDozen_Cocao_KernelsforBreakfasteveryMorning.ItiswellenoughknownthatObstructionsaretheCauseofthisDisease,whichinsteadofbeingencreas'dbyChocolate,wereentirelytakenaway.
ThenastothosestrangeDisorderswhicharesaidtoarisefromitsimmoderateUse,weshallbringintheSequelsomanyFactsdirectlycontrarytotheseChimericalFears,thatallPersonsofgoodSensewillbedisabused,andconvincedofthesalutaryandwonderfulPropertiesofthisFruit;whichshallbetheSubjectofthefollowingChapter.
FOOTNOTES:
[1]_Ludov.Ramira_,Relat.adHurtad.adAppend.cap.
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
22/46
[2]_PaulusZachias_,deMaloHypocondriaco,Lib.2.Cap.15.
CHAP.II.
OftherealPropertiesofChocolate.
WithouttalkingintheDialectofthe_Peripateticks_,abouttheQualitiesofHeatandColdness,now-a-dayssomuchdecry'd,itwillnotbedifficulttoprovethatChocolateisaSubstance,1.Verytemperate.2.Verynourishing,andofeasyDigestion.3.VerypropertorepairtheexhaustedSpiritsanddecayedStrength.4._Lastly_,VerysuitabletopreservetheHealth,andprolongtheLivesofoldMen.ThesefourArticlesshallbesufficientlydemonstratedinthefourfollowingSections.
SECT.I.
ChocolateisveryTemperate.
NothingissogreatanArgumentthat_Wheat_,_Rice_,_Millet_,and_Manioc_,aresalutaryandtemperate,astheirbeingusedbywholeNationstogether.IfanyoftheseSubstanceshadanypredominantevilQuality,itwouldsoonappeartothePrejudiceoftheHealthofNumbers;thePeoplewhosubsistuponit,wouldsoonleaveitoffasaverydangerousandhurtfulAliment.
OnemayreasonmuchafterthesamemannerwithrespecttoChocolate.TheNativesof_New-Spain_,andofagreatpartoftheTorridZoneof_America_,havealwaysuseditasaDelicacy;andatthisdayallthe_European_Colonieswhichareestablish'dinthoseCountries,makeaConsumptionofvastQuantitiesofit:ThesePeopleuseitatallTimes,
andinallSeasons,asconstantdailyFood,withoutregardtoAge,Sex,Temperament,orCondition,withoutComplaintofhavingreceivedtheleastPrejudicefromit;theyfindonthecontrarythatitquenchesThirst,isveryrefreshingandfeeding;thatitprocureseasyquietSleep,andproducesseveralothergoodEffects,tosaynothingofthosewearegoingtotreatofinthefollowingSections.IcouldproduceseveralInstancesinfavourofthisexcellentNourishment,butIshallcontentmyselfwithtwoonly,equallycertainanddecisiveintheProofofitsGoodness.ThefirstisanExperimentofChocolate'sbeingtakenforthe_only_Nourishment,madebyaSurgeon'sWifeof_Martinico_:ShehadlostbyaverydeplorableAccidentherlowerJaw,whichreducedhertosuchaCondition,thatshedidnotknowhowtosubsist;shewasnotcapableoftakinganythingsolid,andnotrichenoughtoliveupon
JelliesandnourishingBroths.InthisStraitshedeterminedtotakethreeDishesofChocolate,preparedafterthemanneroftheCountry,oneintheMorning,oneatNoon,andoneatNight.(There,Chocolateisnothingelsebut_Cocao_KernelsdissolvedinhotWater,withSugar,andseason'dwithaBitofCinnamon.)ThisnewwayofLifesucceededsowell,thatshehaslivedalongwhilesince,morelivelyandrobustthanbeforethisAccident.
IhadthesecondRelationfromaGentlemanof_Martinico_,andoneofmyFriends,notcapableofaFalsity.Heassuredme,thatinhis
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
23/46
Neighbourhood,anInfantoffourMonthsoldunfortunatelylosthisNurse,anditsParentsnotbeingabletoputittoanother,resolvedthroughNecessitytofeeditwith_Chocolate_;theSuccesswasveryhappy,fortheInfantcameontoaMiracle,andwasneitherlesshealthynorlessvigorousthanthosewhoarebroughtupbythebestNurses.
TheInferencesthatmaybedrawnfromthesetwoHistoriesareevident,anddemonstrativelyprovethatChocolatehasneitheranyintemperatenorhurtfulQuality;Ishallthereforesaynomoreuponthem,leavingeveryonetomakehisownproperReflections.
SECT.II.
ChocolateisverynourishingandofeasyDigestion.
ThisPropositionisanecessaryConsequenceoftheforegoing,establishedbyFactswhichIhavejustrelated;andwehaveExperimentsasconvincingofitseasyDigestion,andtheGoodnessoftheChylethatitmakes;butitneedsnootherProofthanthegoodConditionitputsthosein,whoordinarilymakeuseofit.
Alearned_Englishman_hascarriedhisCommendationssohighconcerningthisparticularPropertyofChocolate,thathehasnotscrupledto
affirminaDissertationthathehaspublish'duponthisSubject,ThatoneOunceofChocolatecontainsasmuchNourishmentasaPoundofBeef.AsmuchoutofthewayasthisAssertionseemstobe,onemayeasilyconceive,thatanyAlimentiscapableofyieldingmoreplentifulNourishment,ifcompar'dwithanyother,notonlyinrespecttotheQuantity,butalsowithrelationtotheTimethattheStomachtakestodigestit.
PhysiciansarenotagreedabouttheCausesofDigestion,butaredividedintotwoOpinions,eachofwhichissupportedbytheWritingsofveryeminentAuthors;convincedofmyownInabilitytodecidetheControversy,whichalsorequiresalargeFieldtoexpatiatein,IshallnotundertaketodefendeitherFermentationorTrituration:Butitwill
besufficienttosay,intwoWords,thattheseOpinionsarenotabsolutelyincompatible[1]:itperhapswillnotbedifficulttomakeasortofanAllianceorAgreementbetweenthem,byunitingwhateverisplainandevidentinthetwoSystems,andrejectingwhatisotherwise;andfromhenceformathird,whichwillbenothingbuttheUnionoftheuncontestedPartsoftheothertwo.
ThesetwoCausesundoubtedlyconcurintheAlterationthattheAlimentundergoesintheMouth;forthe_Saliva_thatmixeswithitinMastication,anddilutesit,cannotbedeny'dtobeanadmirableFerment[2];andtheTonguewhichmovesit,andtheTeethwhichgrindit,andbreakit,mustbeown'dtobethefirstInstrumentsofTrituration.
NowsinceNatureiscommonlyuniforminherOperations,andsincethereisagreatdealofreasontosupposethatNaturecompleatsDigestionbythesamemeansthatshehasbegunit,letussupposeitisreallysoforaMoment,andapplyittothepresentSubject,andthenweshallseebywhatEvidenceChocolateoughttobeofaneasyDigestion.
Inthefirstplace,bitterandalkalineSubstances,suchastheseKernels,arestomachickandanalogoustothe_Saliva_andtheFermentwhichdissolvestheAlimentintheStomach;howthencanitbeofhardDigestionwiththeseQualities?
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
24/46
Inthesecondplace,ifoneconsidersattentivelytheKernelsastheyareroasted,broke,andgroundextremelyfineuponaStone,afterwardsmeltedanddissolvedinboilingLiquor,whichservesasaVehicleforit;itthenseemsverylikelythattheStomachwillnothavemuchLabourlefttodo.Inshort,byitDigestionismorethanhalffinished.
ExperienceconfirmstheseReasoningsverymuch,fortheDigestionofChocolateissoonbroughtaboutwithoutTrouble,withoutDifficulty,andwithoutanysensiblerisingofthePulse;theStomachveryfarfrommakinguseofitsStrength,acquiresnewForce.AndIcanfarthersay,uponmyownKnowledge,thatIhaveseenseveralPersonswhohadbutweakDigestion,ifnotquitespoiled,whohavebeenentirelyrecoveredbythefrequentUseofChocolate.
SECT.III.
ChocolatespeedilyrepairsthedissipatedSpiritsanddecay'dStrength.
IfChocolatedidnotproducethisEffect,butonlyasitisverynourishing,itwouldbuthavethisPropertyincommonwiththemostjuicyAliments,andsuchasaremostpropertofurnishagoodQuantity
ofBloodandPlentyofSpirits:butitsEffectsarefarmorespeedy;forifaPerson,forExample,fatiguedwithlongandhardLabour,orwithaviolentAgitationofMind,takesagoodDishofChocolate,heshallperceivealmostinstantly,thathisFaintnessshallcease,andhisStrengthshallberecovered,whenDigestionishardlybegun.ThisTruthisconfirmedbyExperience,tho'notsoeasilyexplainedbyReasoning,becauseChocolatesensiblyappearstobesoft,heavy,andverylittledisposedbyanyactiveQualitytoputtheSpiritsinmotion;however,beingresolvedtoneglectnothingthatislikelytounfoldtheCauseofanEffectsowonderful,Iundertookonedaythe_ChymicalAnalysis_ofChocolate,andaltho'prejudicedthatIshoulddiscovernothingthiswaybutasuperficialKnowledge,yetIwaswillingtoflattermyselfthatmyEnquirywouldnotbewhollyfruitless.
IcleansedsixteenOuncesofKernelswithoutburningthem,IgroundtheminaMarbleMortar,andafterwardsputtheminaGlassRetortwellluted;IplaceditinaReverberatoryFurnace,andfixedtoitalargeReceiver;andafterhavinglutedtheJointswell,IgaveitthefirstDegreeofFire.
ThefirstthatascendedwaspurePhlegm,whichdroptforabouttwoHours;alittlewhiteunctuousMatterswamonthetopofit.
TheFirebeingaugmented,theDropsbecamered,andcongealedastheyfellintotheReceiver;thislastedabouttwoHours.
TheFirebeingagainaugmented,theReceiverwasfilledwithwhiteClouds,whichIsawresolveintoakindofDew,whiteandunctuous,whichwaspartlySpirit,andpartlyawhiteOil;theredDropshowevercontinuedtotheEnd,whichwasabouttwoHoursandahalf.
ThisOperationletmeknowthatChocolatecontainstwokindsofOil;theoneRedandFixed,whichcongealeditselfonthesideoftheVessel;andtheotherWhiteandVolatile,whichproceededfromthewhiteClouds,andresolveditselfontheothersideoftheReceiver.
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
25/46
OntheMorrowafter,havingunlutedtheReceiver,andhavingplacedit_inBalneoMariae_,tomeltthecongealedMatter,Iwasagreeablysurpriz'dtoseetheVesselimmediatelyfill'dwithwhiteClouds:IverymuchadmiredtheVolatilityofthisUnctuosity,andIwasfullyconvinced,thatChocolatecontainedthat_volatileOil_sohighlyesteemedinMedicine,andthatoneneednotgofarthertoseektheCauseofthespeedyReparationofthefaintingSpirits;whichisconfirmedbythedailyExperienceofthosethatuseChocolate.
HavingseparatedtheSpiritbyfiltringthroughbrownPaper,IdividedthebutirousMatterintotwoParts:Iputone,withoutanyAddition,intoalittleGlassCucurbit,whichIplacedinaSand-Heattorectifyit,andbythisOperationIgotanOilofanAmberColour,swimminguponalittlePhlegm,orSpirit[3].
ImeltedtheremainingPart,andhavingincorporateditwithquickLime,IputitintoalittleGlassRetortluted,andputFiretoitbydegrees.TherefirstcameoveraclearOil,thewhiteCloudssucceeded,andatlengththereddishButter.HavingunlutedtheRecipient,andputallinalittleCucurbitinaSand-Heat,thewhiteCloudsyieldedanOilofanAmberColour;andhavingaugmentedtheFire,therecameoveralittleredOil,butnoSpirit.
TheAmber-colouredOilisnothingelsebutthewhitevolatileOil,
colouredalittlebytheViolenceoftheFire:AsfortheredOil,itseemstobetheRemainderoftheredButter,fittobeexalted.ThesetwoOilswillnotmixtogether;forthered,morefixedthantheother,alwaysgetstothebottom.Mr.Boyle[54]saidheextractedfromHumanBlood,twoOilsverylikethoseabovementioned;andthisConformityofSubstances,verymuchconvincesmeofthegreatAnalogyIalwayssupposedtobebetweenChocolateandHumanBlood.
AsfortheSpirit,ithasnothingverydisagreeableeitherinTasteorSmell,itdoesnotsensiblyfermentwithAlkalies,noralterstheColourofbluePaper;aftersometime,itgrowsalittleacid,andtastesalittletartish.
Havingcalcinedthe_CaputMortuum_,whichisofavioletColourandfiltredandevaporatedthe_Lixivium_,asisusual;IgotnothingfromitbutakindofCynder,alittlesaltish,andinsosmallaquantity,thatIdidnotgivemyselfthetroubletoreiteratetheCalcination,Dissolution,Filtration,andEvaporation;forIshouldhardlyhavegotfiveorsixGrainsoffixedpurifiedSalt.
Icuriouslyobserved,thatneitherintheHeads,norintheReceivers,theredidappearanysignsofavolatileSalt:However,_M.Lemery_assuresus[55],thatitcontainsagooddeal;butitisplainhetookhisOpinionupontrust,forhadhemadetheExperiment,heistooingenioustobemistaken.
OnemaythenconcludefromthesetwoObservations,ThatChocolateisamix'dBody,thathastheleastQuantityofSaltentersitsComposition.
SECT.IV.
ChocolateisverypropertopreserveHealth,andtoprolongtheLifeofOldMen.
BeforeChocolatewasknownin_Europe_,goodoldWinewascalledthe
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
26/46
MilkofoldMen;butthisTitleisnowapply'dwithgreaterreasontoChocolate,sinceitsUsehasbecomesocommon,thatithasbeenperceivedthatChocolateis,withrespecttothem,whatMilkistoInfants.Inreality,ifoneexaminestheNatureofChocolate,alittlewithrespecttotheConstitutionofagedPersons,itseemsasthoughtheonewasmadeonpurposetoremedytheDefectsoftheother,andthatitistrulythe_Panacea_ofoldAge.
OurLife,asafamousPhysician[56]observes,is,asitwere,acontinualgrowingdry;butyetthiskindofnaturalConsumptionisimperceptibletoanadvancedAge:whentheradicalMoistureisconsumedmoresensibly,thenthemorebalmyandvolatilePartsoftheBloodaredissipatedbylittleandlittle,theSaltsdisengagingfromtheSulphurs,manifestthemselves,theAcidappears,whichisthefruitfulSourceofChronickDiseases.TheLigaments,theTendons,andtheCartilageshavescarceanyoftheUnctuosityleft,whichrender'dthemsosuppleandsopliantinYouth.TheSkingrowswrinkledaswellwithinaswithout;inaword,allthesolidPartsgrowdryorbony.
OnemaysaythatNaturehasformedChocolatewitheveryVertuepropertoremedytheseInconveniences.ThevolatileSulphurwithwhichitabounds,ispropertosupplythePlaceofthatwhichtheBloodloseseverydaythroughAge,itbluntsandsheathsthePointsoftheSalts,andrestorestheusualSoftnesstotheBlood,likeasSpiritofWineunitedwith
SpiritofSalt,makesasoftLiquorofaviolentCorrosive.ThissamesulphurousUnctuosityatthesametimespreadsitselfinthesolidParts,andgivesthem,insomesense,theirnaturalSuppleness;itbestowsontheMembranes,theTendons,theLigaments,andtheCartilages,akindofOilwhichrendersthemsmoothandflexible.Thusthe_Equilibrium_betweentheFluidsandtheSolidsisinsomemeasurere-establish'd,theWheelsandSpringsofourMachinemended,Healthispreserved,andLifeprolonged.ThesearenottheConsequencesofPhilosophicalReflections,butofathousandExperimentswhichmutuallyconfirmeachother;amongagreatNumberofwhichthefollowingaloneshallsuffice.
Therelatelydiedat_Martinico_aCounselloraboutahundredYears
old,who,forthirtyYearspast,livedonnothingbutChocolateandBiscuit.HesometimesindeedhadalittleSoopatDinner,butneveranyFish,Flesh,orotherVictuals:Hewas,nevertheless,sovigorousandnimble,thatatfourscoreandfive,hecouldgetonhorsebackwithoutStirrups.
ChocolateisnotonlypropertoprolongtheLifeofagedPeople,butalsoofthosewhoseConstitutionisleananddry,orweakandcacochimical,orwhouseviolentExercises,orwhoseEmploymentsobligethemtoanintenseApplicationofMind,whichmakesthemveryfaintish:toalltheseitagreesperfectlywell,andbecomestothemanalteringDiet.
Onthecontrary,IwouldnotcounselthedailyUseofittosuchwhoareveryfat,orwhoarewonttodrinkagooddealofWine,andliveuponajuicyDiet,orwhosleepmuch,andusenoExerciseatall:Inaword,wholeadadelicate,sedentary,andindolentLife,suchasagreatmanyPeopleofConditionat_Paris_areusedto.SuchBodiesasthese,fullofBloodandJuice,havenoneedofadditionalNourishment,andtheDietwillfitthembetterwhichismentionedinEcclesiast._PlentifulFeedingbringsDiseases,andExcesshathkilledNumbers;butthetemperateManprolongshisDays[59]._
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
27/46
FOOTNOTES:
[1]The_Translator_ofthisTreatise,whoisaPhysician,thinksitpropertoobserve,thattheOpinionsaboutDigestion,aredeficientlyrelatedbyourAuthor;fortheyarechieflyfour,_Trituration_,_Fermentation_,_Heat_,andbya_Menstruum_,whicharesofarfrombeingincompatible,thatthreeofthemnecessarilyconcurtopromoteDigestion;towit,_Heat_,anda_Menstruum_or_Liquor_,and_Trituration_,ortheMotionorrubbingoftheCoatsoftheStomach:Foritisplain,ifthetwoformerareabsent,therecanbenoDigestion,andwithoutdoubtthelastdoesassist,butwhichistheprincipal,Ishallnottakeuponmetodetermine.
[2]OurAuthorseemshereeithertomistake_Ferment_for_Menstruum_,ortomakethemsynonymousTerms:WiththisAllowance,hisReasoningisundoubtedlyjust;butasforaFerment,intheusualSenseofthatWord,itmayjustlybequestionedwhethertherebeanysuchinaHumanBody.
[3]OurAuthorseemstomakePhlegmandSpiritsynonymousTermsinChymistry.
[54]PluribusabhincAnniscumSanguinemconvenienteadmodumdigestione,praeparassem,&solicitedistillatosLiquoressupereffluentes
flammalampadisrectificassem:InteraliaduoobtinuioleadiversiomninoColoris,quorumalterumFlavedinem,autpalloremSuccini,alterumverointensissimamRubedinemimitabatur;illudautemingeniosisetiam,lynceisq;Spectatoribus,miraculiinstarerat,quodlicetambohaecOleaabeodemsanguineemanassent,forentq;purasatis&limpida,nontantumdistinctisinMassissibiinvicemsuprainnatarent,sedsiagitationecommiscerentur,paulatimsesemutuoiterumextricarent,utOleum&Aqua._HistoriaSanguinisHumani._
[55]TraitedeDrogues,_Pag.127_.
[56]BagliviusinEdit.Lugd.1709._Pag.414._Vivereenimnostrumsiccessereest.
[59]_Chap._xxxvii._V._33&34.InmultisEsciseritInfirmitas,proptercrapulammultiobierunt:Quiautemabstinensest,adjiecitVitam.
THENaturalHISTORYOF
_CHOCOLATE_.
PARTIII.
OftheUsesofChocolate.
ThecommonUsesofChocolatemaybereducedtothree:ItisputinConfections;itisusedinChocolate,properlysocall'd;andthereisanOildrawnfromit,towhichtheygivetheNameofButter.Ishall
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
28/46
treatofthemdistinctly,inthethreefollowingChapters.
CHAP.I
OfChocolateinConfections.
Theychuse_Cocao-Nuts_thatarehalfripe,andtakeouttheKernelsonebyone,forfearofspoilingthem;theythenlaythemtosoakforsomeDaysinSpringWater,whichtheytakecaretochangeMorningandEvening:afterwards,havingtakenthemoutandwipedthem,theylardthemwithlittleBitsofCitron-BarkandCinnamon,almostastheymaketheNutsof_Rouen_.
Inthemeantime,theyprepareaSyrupofthefinestSugar,butveryclear;thatistosay,whereinthereisbutlittleSugar:andafterithasbeenclarifiedandpurified,theytakeitboiling-hotofftheFire,andputinthe_Cocao-Kernels_,andletthemlie24Hours.TheyrepeatthisOperationsixorseventimes,encreasingeverytimetheQuantityofSugar,withoutputtingitontheFire,ordoinganythingelsetoit:lastofall,theyboilanotherSyruptotheConsistenceofSugar,and
pouritontheKernelswellwipedandputinacleanearthenPot;andwhentheSyrupisalmostcold,theymixwithitsomeDropsoftheEssenceofAmber.
WhentheywouldhavetheseinadryForm,theytakethemoutoftheSyrup;andafteritiswelldrainedfromthem,theyputthemintoaBasonfullofaverystrongclarify'dSyrup,thentheyimmediatelyputitinaStove,orHot-House,wheretheycandyit.
ThisConfection,whichnearlyresemblestheNutsof_Rouen_,isexcellenttostrengthentheStomachwithoutheatingittoomuch;forthisreason,theymaysafelybegiventothosewhoareillofaFever.
CHAP.II.
OfChocolate,properlysocalled.
IntreatingofthisLiquor,wehavetwothingstoexamine:TheFirstis,theOriginalofChocolate,andthedifferentMannerofpreparingit:TheSecond,theMedicinalUsesthatitisproperfor;whichshallbetheSubjectofthetwofollowingSections.
SECT.I
OftheOriginalofChocolate,andthedifferentMannersofpreparingit.
Chocolateisoriginallyan_American_Drink,whichthe_Spaniards_foundverymuchinuseat_Mexico_,whentheyconquer'dit,abouttheYear1520.
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
29/46
The_Indians_,whohaveusedthisDrinktimeoutofmind,prepareditwithoutanygreatArt;theyroastedtheirKernelsinearthenPots,thengroundthembetweentwoStones,dilutedthemwithhotWater,andseason'dthemwith_Pimento_[1]:thosewhoweremorecurious,added_Achiota_[2]togiveitaColour,and[3]_Attolla_toaugmentitsSubstance.Allthesethingsjoinedtogether,gavetotheCompositionsostrangeaLook,andsooddaTaste,thata_Spanish_Soldiersaid,itwasmorefittobethrowntoHogs[4],thanpresentedtoMen;andthathecouldneverhaveaccustomedhimselftoit,ifthewantofWinehadnotforcedhimtoit,thathemightnotalwaysbeobligedtodrinknothingbutWater.
The_Spaniards_[5]taughtbythe_Mexicans_,andconvincedbytheirownExperience,thatthisDrink,asrustickasitappearedtothem,neverthelessyieldedverywholesomeNourishment;try'dtomakeitmoreagreeablebytheAdditionofSugar,someOrientalSpices,andThingsthatgrewthere,whichitwillbeneedlesstomention,becausetheNamesofthemarenotsomuchasknownhere,andbecauseofsomanyIngredients,thereisnonecontinueddowntousbut_Vanilla_;inlikemanner,thatCinnamon[6]istheonlySpicewhichhashadgeneralApprobation,andremainsintheCompositionofChocolate.
_Vanilla_isaCodofabrownColouranddelicateSmell;itisflatterandlongerthanour[_French_]Beans,itcontainsalusciousSubstance,
fulloflittleblackshiningGrains.Theymustbechosenfresh,full,andwellgrown,andcaremustbetakenthattheyarenotsmearedwithBalsam,norputinamoistPlace.
TheagreeableSmell,andexquisiteTastethattheycommunicatetoChocolate,haveprodigiuslyrecommendedit;butlongExperiencehavingtaughtthatitheatsverymuch,itsUseisbecomelessfrequent,andthosewhoprefertheirHealthmorethanpleasingtheirSenses,abstainfromitentirely.In_Spain_and_Italy_,Chocolatepreparedwithout_Vanilla_,iscalledatpresent_ChocolateofHealth_;andinthe_French_Islandsof_America_,where_Vanilla_isneitherscarcenordear,asin_Europe_,theydonotuseitatall,thoughtheyconsumeasmuchChocolatethereasinanyotherPlaceintheWorld.
However,agreatmanyPeopleareprejudicedinfavourof_Vanilla_,andthatImaypayadueDeferencetotheirJudgments,Ishallemploy_Vanilla_intheCompositionof_Chocolate_,inthebestMethodandQuantity,asitappearstome;Isay,asitappearstome,becausethereareaninfiniteVarietyofTastes,andeveryoneexpectsthatweshouldhaveregardtohis,andonePersonisforaddingwhattheotherrejects.Besides,whenitisagreeduponwhatthingstoputin,itisnotpossibletohituponProportionsthatwillbeuniversallyapproved;itwillthereforebesufficientformetomakechoiceofsuchThingsastheMajorityareagreedupon,andconsequentlywhichareagreeabletotheTastesofmost.
WhentheChocolatePasteismadeprettyfineuponaStone,asIhavealreadyexplain'd,theyaddSugarpowderedandpassedthroughafineSearce;thetrueProportionisthesameWeightofSugarasofKernels,butitiscommontoputaquarterpartlessoftheformer,thatitmaynotdrythePastetoomuch,normakeittoosusceptibleofImpressionsfromtheAir,andmoresubjecttobeeatenbyWorms.ButthisfourthPartisagainsupply'd,whenitismadeintoaLiquortodrink.
TheSugarbeingwellmix'dwiththePaste,theyaddaveryfinePowdermadeof_Vanilla_and_Cinnamon_powdredandsearcedtogether.Theymix
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
30/46
alloveragainupontheStoneverywell,andthenputitinTinMoulds,ofwhatFormyouplease,whereitgrowsashardasbefore.ThosethatlovePerfumes,pouralittleEssenceofAmberonitbeforetheyputitintheMoulds.
WhentheChocolateismadewithout_Vanilla_,theProportionofCinnamonistwoDramstoaPoundofPaste;butwhen_Vanilla_isused,itshouldbelessbyonehalf.Asforthe_Vanilla_,theProportionisarbitrary;one,two,orthreeCods,andsometimesmore,toaPound,accordingtoeveryone'sFancy.
ThosethatmakeChocolateforSale,thattheymaybethoughttohaveputinagooddealof_Vanilla_,putinPepper,Ginger,_&c._ThereareevensomePeoplesoaccustomedtotheseTastes,thattheywillnothaveitotherwise;buttheseSpicesservingonlytoinflametheBlood,andheattheBody,prudentPeopletakecaretoavoidthisExcess,andwillnotuseanyChocolatewhoseCompositiontheyareignorantof.
_Chocolate_madeafterthismanner,hasthisAdvantage,thatwhenaPersonisobligedtogofromHome,andcannotstaytohaveitmadeintoDrink,hemayeatanOunceofit,anddrinkingafterit,leavetheStomachtodissolveit.
Inthe_Antilloes_theymakeCakesoftheKernelsonly,withoutany
Addition,asIhavetaughtattheEndofthefirstPartofthisTreatise;andwhentheywouldmakeChocolateofthem,theyproceedinthefollowingManner.
FOOTNOTES:
[1][2][3]SeetheRemarks8,9,and10.
[4]PorcorumeaveriusColluviesquamhominumPotio._Benzo_apud_Clusium_ExoticorumLib.Cap.28.
[5]HaecolimCocolatiserantExordia&ArtisprimaRudimenta._P.Thomae
Strozzae_deMentispotio.
[6]Seethe11thRemark.
TheMethodofmakingChocolateaftertheMannerofthe_French_Islandsin_America_.
TheyscrapeoffwithaKnifefromtheseCakesaforesaid[1],whatQuantitytheyplease,(forInstance,fourlargeSpoonfuls,whichweighaboutanOunce)andmixwithittwoorthreePinchesofpowder'dCinnamonfinelysearced,andabouttwolargeSpoonfulsofSugarinPowder[2].
TheyputthisMixtureintoaChocolate-Potwithanew-laidEgg[3],bothWhiteandYolk;thenmixallwelltogetherwiththeMill,andbringittotheConsistenceofLiquidHoney,uponwhichtheyafterwardspourboilingLiquor[4],(MilkorWater,asislikedbest)atthesametimeusingtheMillthattheymaybewellincorporatedtogether.
AfterwardstheyputtheChocolate-PotontheFire,orinaKettleofboilingWater;andwhentheChocolaterises,theytakeitoff,andhavingwellmill'dit,theypouritintotheDishes.TomaketheTaste
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
31/46
moreexquisite,onemay,beforeitispouredout,addaSpoonfulofOrange-FlowerWater,whereinaDroportwoofEssenceofAmberhasbeenput.
ThisMannerofmakingChocolatehasseveralAdvantagesaboveanyother,andwhichrenderitpreferabletothemall.
Inthefirstplace,onemayassert,thatbeingwellmanaged,ithasaveryagreeableSmell,andapeculiarDelicacyintheTaste;besides,itpassesveryeasilyofftheStomach,norleavesanySettlingeitherintheChocolate-Pot,orintheDishes.
Inthesecondplace,onehastheSatisfactiontoprepareitone'sselftoone'sownTaste,toencreaseordiminishatpleasuretheQuantitiesofSugarorCinnamon,andtoaddorleaveouttheOrange-FlowerWater,orEssenceofAmber;and,inaword,tomakeanyotherAlterationthatshallbemostagreeable.
Inthethirdplace,theymakenoAdditionsthatdestroythegoodQualitiesoftheKernels;itissotemperate,thatitmaybetakenatallTimes,andbyallAges,inSummeraswellasinWinter,withoutfearingtheleastInconveniency:Whereas_Chocolate_season'dwith_Vanilla_,andotherhotandbitingIngredients,cannotbutbeverypernicious,especiallyinSummer,toyoungPeople,andtodry
Constitutions.TheGlassofcoldWaterthattheyhaveintroducedtodrinkbeforeit,orafterit,onlyservestopalliatetheEffectsforaTime;fortheHeatthatattendsit,willmanifestitselfintheBloodand_Viscera_,whentheWaterisdrain'doffandgone,bytheordinaryways.
Inthefourthplace,aDishissocheap,asnottocometoaboveaPenny.IfTradesmenandArtizanswereonceawareofit,therearefewwhowouldnottaketheAdvantageofsoeasyaMethodofBreakfastingsoagreeably,atsosmallaCharge,andtobewellsupportedtillDinner-time,withouttakinganyotherSustenance,SolidorLiquid.
FOOTNOTES:
[1]OrrathergrateitwithaflatGrater,whentheCakesaresodrythattheywillnotbesoeasilyscrapedwithaKnife.
[2]BecauseifitwasinaLump,itwouldweighmorethandoubletheQuantityofscrapedChocolate.
[3]TheoilyPartsoftheChocolatewouldnotreadilyunitewiththeaqueousorwatryPartsoftheLiquor,withouttheInterventionoftheEgg,whichservesasacommonBond,withoutwhichthisDrinkwouldnothaveagoodHead.
[4]TheProportionofLiquorshouldbeabouteightOunces,orhalfaPint,tooneOunceofChocolate.
SECT.II.
OftheUsesthatmaybemadeofChocolatewithrelationtoMedicine.
IhavealwaysimagineditwouldbeaverygreatAdvantagetoPhysick,ifMedicinescouldbeadministredtosickPeopleunderanagreeableForm,
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
32/46
andafamiliarTaste;andtheArtificeitselfofgivinganythingundertheappearanceandnameofsomethingthatisdelicate,isnotwithoutitsBenefit:PeopleafflictedwithDistempers,haveenoughtodotosupporttheirPains,withouttheInconveniencyofdistastfulRemedies;however,itwouldbenosmallmattertosparethemtheAversiontheyhavetoeverythingthatiscalledaMedicine;andwhenthereisaNecessityforsuch,ChocolatemayserveforveryproperDiet,andanexcellentVehicle,whereintotakeaMedicineatthesametime.
ThesehavebeenmyThoughtsforsomeTime,andIcanaffirmthatahappySuccesshasoftenconfirm'dmyOpinion.IcouldwishthatthisEssay,imperfectasitis,mightservetowakentheAttentionofsomeingeniousPhysician,whowouldgivehimselfthetroubletohandlethisMatterwithgreaterAccuracythanmysmallPenetrationwillpermitmetodo.
1.HowmanyPeopleneglecttopurgethemselves,andaresoobstinateastorefusetodoit,whentheyhavethegreatestneedofit,andthisbecauseofthegreatDistastetheyhaveforordinaryMedicines?WillitnotbeofthegreatestServicetoteachthemtopurgethemselvesafteradelightfulMethod,andeven,ifitwasnecessary,topurgethemwithouttheirknowledge?Todothis,youneedonlymix20or26Grainsof_Jalap_inPowder,(moreorless,accordingtotheAgeandStrengthofthePerson)withsomuchPowderofCinnamonasiscommonforaDishofChocolate,andtogivethisDishasifitwereordinaryChocolate.I
havehadgreatExperienceofthis,itisagoodPurgewithoutGriping;severalhavemistakentheEffectfortheBenefitofNatureonly,beingentirelyignorantoftheofficiousDeceitwhichImadeuseoffortheirsakes.WhatAdvantagesmaynottherebedrawnfromthisMethodofPurgingapply'dtoChildren,whoaresobackwardtotakeanythingthathastheleastillTaste?
2.ThePreparationsofthe_Cortex_,bothGalenicalandChymical,havenotsucceeded.ItsInfusioninWine,heretoforesomuchcry'dup,containsbutapartoftheVertue;forthe_Faeces_,ortheBarkthatremainsatthebottomoftheBottle,hasStrengthenoughtocuretheintermittingFever.ThusafterathousandfruitlessTrials,itisnowgivenagaininSubstance,reducedtoaveryfinePowder,whichiseither
madeinto_Bolus's_,ortakeninWater.ThisPracticehoweverisattendedwithseveralInconveniences;foragreatmanyPeople,especiallyChildren,cannotswallowitin_Bolus's_.ThesameInconveniencesfollowtheotherWayoftakingitinWater,andisneitherlesstroublesome,norlessnauseous.
Toavoidallthis,aDramofthe_Cortex_reducedtoafine[1]Powder,andfinelysearced,andafterwardsgrounddryonaPorphyry,withtheCinnamondesignedforaDishofChocolate,andmixedintheChocolatewithmoreSugarthanordinary,maybetakenwithouttheleastReluctancy,and,ifnecessary,withoutbeingperceived:ThePersonwillbenourishedatthesametimemuchbetterthanwithBroth,whichiseasilycorruptedbyafeverishStomach;neitherwilltheParticlesof
the_Cortex_offendtheStomach,beingwrappedupbytheUnctuosityoftheChocolate.IhavecuredIntermittentFeversafterthismanner,nordiditeverfailofgoodSuccess.
3.ThemostelaboratePreparationsofSteel,arenotonejotthebetteruponthataccount;thesimpleFilingshavemoreVertuethanwaseverextortedfromthisMetalbyanyPreparation:thereisneverthelessanInconveniencyintheUseofthem,becausealltheParticlesoftheSteelunitingtogether,bytheirWeight,atthebottomoftheStomach,formakindofaCake,whichfatiguesit,andmakesitveryuneasy.
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
33/46
Toremedythis,aftertheFilingshavebeengroundintoaveryfinePowderuponaPorphyry;youmustmixitwiththeCinnamon,whenyoumakeyourChocolate,anditiscertainthattheParticlesoftheSteelwillbesodividedandseparatedbytheAgitationoftheMill,andsoentangledintheChocolate,thattherewillbenodangerofafutureSeparation.Besides,thearomatickParticlesoftheCinnamon,andthealkalineonesoftheChocolate,willnotalittleaddtotheStrengthandOperationofthisRemedy.
4.AfterthismannermayyoumixwiththeChocolatethePowdersof_Millepedes_,_Vipers_,_Earthworms_,theLiversandGallsofEels,totakeawaythedistastefulIdeasthattheSickentertainagainsttheseRemedies.
5.TheUseofMilkisaspecifickRemedyfortheCureofseveralDistempers,butbyMisfortunetherearebutfewStomachsthatcanbearit,andseveralMethodshavebeentry'dtofindoutHelpforthisInconvenience.Withouttroublingmyselftomentionorexaminethem,willitnotbeaneasyandnaturalMethod,tohindertheMilkfromcurdlingontheStomach,topourahotDishofChocolateuponaPintorQuartofMilk?ThebutirousPartsoftheMilkandChocolate,areinrealityanalogoustoeachother,andverypropertobeunitedforthesamePurpose;andwhatisbitterandalkalineintheChocolate,ought
necessarilytohinderthecurdlingoftheMilkintheStomach.ItiseasytoconfirmbyExperiencetheReasoninguponthissortofChocolatedMilk.
FOOTNOTES:
[1]This,iftrue,overturnswhathasbeensaidabouttheMechanicalCureofanAgue,by_Quincy_,whopretendsthattheVertueoftheCortexliesinitsTexture,whichthisPreparationdestroys.
CHAP.III.
OftheOilorButterofChocolate.
ChocolateKernelsareaFruitveryoleaginous,buttheOilisverycloselyunitedwiththeotherPrinciples,thatitrequiresagreatdealofLabourtoseparateit,andtomakeitpure.ThethreecommonWaystoextractOils,arebyDistillation,Expression,andDecoction;werejectthefirstasbeingveryimperfect,becausetheViolenceoftheFirealterstheNatureofallOilsthatareextractedthatway.TheSuccesswillanswernobetterbyExpression,becausethatwhichisgotwillbe
veryimpureandinverysmallQuantity.TherethenremainsnowaybutbyDecoction,todrawoutthisessentialOilthatweareinquestof,whichisthetrueandtheonlyway,foritgivesitinitsutmostPuritywithoutanyAlteration.
TheytakeChocolatethatisroasted,cleaned,andgroundupontheStone,theythrowthePasteintoaPanofboilingWateroveraclearFire;theyletitboiltillalmostalltheWaterisconsumed,thentheypourmoreWateruponittillthePanisfull;theOilascendstotheTopinproportionastheWatercools,andgrowstotheConsistenceofButter.
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
34/46
IfthisOilisnotverywhite,itneedsonlybemeltedinaPanfullofhotWater,whereitwillbedisengagedandpurifiedfromtheredandterrestrialParticlesthatremain.
At_Martinico_thisOilisoftheConsistenceofButter,butbroughtinto_France_,itbecomesalmostashardas_Fromage_,or_French_Cheese,whichmeltsnevertheless,andbecomesliquidwithamoderateHeat:ithasnoverysensibleSmell,andhasthegoodfortunenevertogrowrank;Ihavesomeofitnowbyme,thathasbeenmadethisfifteenYears.OneYear,whenOilofOlivesfailedus,weusedthatofChocolateduringtheTimeof_Lent_.Itisverywelltasted,andveryfarfrombeinghurtful;itcontainsthemostessentialandmosthealthfulPartsoftheChocolate.
IhadtheCuriositytoexamineitbyaChymicalAnalysis;IputthreeOuncesintoalittleGlassCucurbitplacedintheHeatofAshes,theredrop'dfromitanoilyLiquor,whichcongealedasitfelldown,andwhichdidnotdifferfromtheButterthatIhavedescribed,butbyalightImpressionmadeuponitbytheFire.Ionlyobserved,thattherewasatthebottomoftheReceiver,twoorthreeDropsofaclearLiquor,whichtastedalittleacid,butveryagreeable.
AsthisOilisveryanodyne,oranEaserofPain,itisexcellent,takeninwardly,tocureHoarseness,andtoblunttheSharpnessoftheSalts
thatirritatetheLungs.Inusing,itmustbemeltedandmix'dwithasufficientQuantityofSugar-Candy,andmadeintoLozenges,whichmustbeheldintheMouthaslongasmaybe,beforetheymeltquiteaway,swallowingitdowngently.
OilofChocolatealsotakenseasonably,maybeawonderfulAntidoteagainstcorrosivePoisons.
ItsVertuesarenowaysinferior,ifusedoutwardly.
1.Itisthebestandmostnatural_Pomatum_forLadiesto_clear_and_plump_theSkinwhenitis_dry_,_rough_,or_shrivel'd_,withoutmakingitappeareither_fat_or_shining_.The_SpanishWomen_at
_Mexico_,useitverymuch,anditishighlyesteem'dbythem.Ifitisthoughttoohard,itmaybesoftenedwithOilofBen,orOilofSweetAlmonds,colddrawn.
2.IampersuadediftheantientCustomofthe_Greeks_and_Romans_,ofanointingtheirBodieswithOil,wasrevived,thereisnothingwouldanswertheirExpectationsbetter,inaugmentingtheStrengthandSupplenessoftheirMuscles,andpreservingthemfromRheumatismsandothertorturingPains.TheleavingoffthisPractice,canbeattributedtonothingelsebuttotheillSmellandotherPropertiesthatattendedit;butifOilofChocolatewasusedinsteadofOilofOlives,thoseInconvenienceswouldbeavoided,becauseithasnoSmell,anddriesentirelyintotheSkin:nothingcertainlywouldbemoreadvantageous,
especiallyforagedPersons,thantorenewthisCustom,whichhasbeenauthorizedbytheExperienceofAntiquity.
3.Apothecariesoughttomakeuseofthispreferablytoallothers,astheBasisoftheirApoplectickBalsams;becauseallotherOilsgrowrancid,andtheOilofNutmegs,thoughwhiten'dwithSpiritofWine,alwaysretainssomewhatofitsnaturalSmell,whereasOilofChocolateisnotsubjecttoanyoftheseAccidents.
4.ThereisnothingsoproperasthistokeepArmsfromrusting,because
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
35/46
itcontainslessWaterthananyotherOilmadeuseofforthatpurpose.
5.Inthe_American_IslandstheymakeuseofthisOiltocurethePiles;someuseitwithoutMixture,othersmelttwoorthreePoundsofLead,andgatheringtheDross,reduceitintofinePowder,andafteritisfinelysearced,incorporateitwiththisOil,andmakeaLinimentofitveryefficaciousforthisDisease.OthersforthesameIntentionmixwiththisOilthePowderof_Millepedes_,SugarofLead,_Pompholix_,andalittle_Laudanum_.
OthersusethisOiltoeaseGoutPains,applyingithottothePart,withaCompressdip'dinit,whichtheycoverwithahotNapkin.ItmaybeusedafterthesamemannerfortheRheumatism.
6._Lastly_,ThisOilenterstheCompositionofthewonderfulPlaister,andthe_Pomatum_againstTetters.YouwillfindtheirDescriptionandPropertiesamongtheRemarksattheEndofthisTreatise.
REMARKSUponsomePLACESoftheTREATISEupon_Chocolate_.
REMARKI.
The_Coco-tree_isthesameasthePalm-Treesofamousinthe_East-Indies_;itsFruitiscall'd_Coco_,andcareshouldbetakenthatitbenotconfoundedwith_Cocao_.ImakethisRemark,becauseIfindthat_WilliamDampier_veryimproperlycalls[a]_Coco'sCocao-Nuts_,andtheTreethatbearsthema_Cocao_.
REMARKII.
TheyhavetransportedthesegreatTreesfrom_St.Domingo_tothe_VentIslands_;theirLeavesbeingalmostround,arefirmandsosmooth,thatonewouldthinktheyhadbeenvarnished.TheirFruitaresometimesaslargeasone'sHead,andtheirSkinsverythick:Whenthatistakenoff,thePulpisveryneartheColour,Smell,andTasteofourApricocks;intheMiddletherearefourStonesasbigasPulletsEggs,whicharedifficulttoseparatefromtheFruit.TheyareeatenwithWineandSugar;theymakealsoverygoodMarmalade.
REMARKIII.
The_Calebash_-TreeisnighaslargeastheApple-Tree;itsuppliesthe
NativesandNegroeswithBuckets,Pots,Bottles,Dishes,Plates,andseveralotherHousholdUtensils.OnecannotdescribetheShapenorBignessof_Calebashes_,sincetherearesomeoftheSizeofaPear,andothersaslargeasthegreatestCitrons;andbesides,therearelong,round,oval,andofallFashions.TheFruit,whichisgreenandsmoothupontheTree,becomesgreyasitdries;within,itisfullofawhitePulp,ofnouseatall,whichtheytakeoutthroughaHole;theShellstheyputtoseveralServices.TheBarkisaboutoneFifthofanInchthick,butveryhard,anddifficulttobreak.
-
8/2/2019 The Natural History of Chocolate
36/46
REMARKIV.
The_Papaw_-TreeisprettyuncommonastoitsMake;itsTrunkisstrait,buthollow,andofsotenderaWood,thatitiseasilycutdownwithaHedging-Bill;itisaboutfourYardshigh,withoutanyBranches;itsLeavesmuchlikethoseofourFig-Trees,buttwiceasbig,andarejoinedtothetopbyStalksofaFootandahalflong,andhollowlikeaReed.Theybeingaboutthirtyinnumber,growatthetopoftheTrunkallroundaboutit;thelowestareripestandlargest,theyaregreen,andofthebignessofone'sFist.ThePulp,whichisbuthalfanInchthick,islikethatofaMelon,butofasweetfaintishTaste;butitmakesaprettygoodConfection,ofafinegreenColour.
Thereisanotherkindof_Papaw_-Tree,whoseFruitisaslargeasaMelon,andbettertastedthantheformer.
REMARKV.
The_Banane_isasortofPlant,whoseRootisagreatroundBulb,fromwhenceproceedsaTrunk,greenandsmooth,sixFeethigh,asthickasone'sThigh,andwithoutanyLeaf.OnthetopofitgrowabouttwentyLeaves,aboutaFootandahalfbroad,andaboutfiveFeetlong;butso
tender,thattheWindtearsthemfromtheMiddletotheSides,intoSlangslikeRibbons:FromtheCenteroftheseLeavesgrowsasecondTrunk,morefirmthantherestofthePlant:uponthisgrowsaClusterofaboutfortyorfifty_Bananes_,sometimesmore,sometimesless.A_Banane_isaFruitasthickasone'sArm,aboutaFootlong,andalittlecrooked.TheygatherthisClustergreen,andhangitupintheCeiling;andasthe_B