the natural makeup manual

2011

s1000

OISE

1/1/2020

The Aroma Shoppe

www.janbenham.co.uk

[email protected]

The Natural Makeup Manual

i

Preface to the First edition

This first edition....

Unveiled, the art of making your own makeup,

Just as my first two books The Creamy Craft of Cosmetic

Making; with Essential Oils and their Friends, and The Baby

Boomers Beauty Bible, arose in response to the many

requests by therapists in the healing profession, this book is a

natural expansion of the cream making books. My mission:

To bring the knowledge of how to make all natural and

holistic makeup to you.

The changing climate of the beauty field, and heightened

awareness of the types of harmful substances that may

appear in makeup, especially in lipsticks, has meant that

there is more desire for information regarding natural

products. Therefore, in this book, I have provided

information for therapists and interested home producers,

with explanation on ingredients used and instructions on how

to make makeup.

Furthermore, you will also realize huge monetary savings by

not purchasing expensive department store brands. There is

no way you can go wrong. The average woman in the UK

spends 250 a year buying makeup, 50% of those women

spend in the 1000s. This makes the business of supplying customers with natural alternatives a sure success.

Natural makeup is not tested on animals; therefore, by using

natural makeup you do not support the testing on animals

that many pharmaceutical companies do.

ii

You will read many conflicting write-ups about what should

and should not be in your makeup and you may find it very

confusing, it is a jungle out there. Learn about the

ingredients; essential oils, carrier oils, nut butters, colourants,

oxides and micas and be true to what feels best for you.

Jan Benham

1

PART ONE

The Mineral Makeup Manual

2

History and Fun Trivia

Since our history from Atlantis are still a little fizzy, ancient

Babylon figures as the beginning of our story about makeup.

The origin of our use of cosmetics can be traced back 5,000

years to ancient Babylon in which it seems that they

frequently painted their faces with lead, used henna to colour

their nails, and for lipstick used semi-precious stones that

were crushed and smeared on their lips.

The Romans and ancient Egyptians used cosmetics that

contained mercury and often lead. Cleopatra had lipstick

made from ground up cochineal beetles added to ants eggs as a base. Also used by the Egyptians was a purple-red

colour that was squeezed from Iodine used to redden lips,

this eventually became known as the kiss of death.

When King Tuts tomb was opened in 1922, cosmetics were found inside that were still fragrant and perfectly usable.

During the era of Queen Elizabeth 1st, it was popular to paint

the face white and the lips red. When acting in Shakespeares plays no women were allowed to work as actors. Female

roles were taken by young lads who wore womens clothes and elaborate makeup. The lead content in the white makeup

led to many early deaths by boy actors.

With the rise of Christianity, the heavy use of makeup

gradually diminished in many cultures. Eventually makeup

became seen as the art of the devil.

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3

In fact, in 1770, the English parliament passed a law stating

that any woman who seduced a man into marriage by

wearing makeup could be tried as witch!

In fact the use of makeup was frowned upon at many points

in western history. In the 19th

century prostitutes were the

main users of makeup and Queen Victoria publically

declared makeup improper, vulgar and acceptable only for

use by actresses.

During the 1920s, the flapper style came into fashion, which embraced dark eyes, red lipstick, red nail varnish and the

suntan by Coco Channel.

Makeup became very popular during world war 11 with the

popularity of its use in the movie industry. And by the

middle of the 20th

century, cosmetics were wildly used by

women in nearly all industrial societies around the world.

In the 1950s colour films made an enormous impact on cosmetics. The huge cinema screens illuminated the

unblemished appearance of stars and caused the makeup

artist Max Factor to invent the pan cake, which covered any blemishes and evened out skin tone.

We still have to watch out for the detractors of makeup

though. For example: Adolf Hitler told women that face painting was for clowns and not for women of the master

race.

In Islamic law, there is no prohibition on wearing cosmetics,

but they are not to disguise the real looks in order to mislead

or cause uncontrolled desire.


4

More trivia:

In 1884, the first modern lipstick was introduced by perfumers in Paris. It was wrapped in silk paper and

made with deer tallow, castor oil and beeswax.

In 1904, a perfumed lip salve would have cost you 25 cents.

By 1908, it was okay for women to apply lipstick at the table during lunch at a restaurant. It was not okay

to apply lipstick at dinner.

Did you know that according to a 1996 survey by Shiseido cosmetics; 87% of American women admit

to having left traces of lipstick in unwanted places.

The average woman uses 4 9 lb. of lipsticks in a lifetime.

Guano (bat droppings) is used in some cosmetics such as mascara.

Modern mascara was created in 1913 by T.L.Williams. He mixed coal dust with petroleum

jelly for his sister Mabel, and later grew the invention

of Maybelline.

Jan Benham

5

PART TWO

Carmine is used to colour Campari


6

Making Natural Mineral Makeup

In this manual, we are going to show you how to make

natural makeup:

Lipstick, natural lip stains, lip gloss, eye and lip

pencils, Stimulash eye liner, mascara, liquid

foundation and concealers.

I teach the makeup making course on two separate days. One

of the days is about the making of pure mineral makeup such

as foundation, blushers and eye shadows, the other day is on

how to make lipsticks and cosmetic pencils etc. involving the

use of oils, waxes, butters and essential oils.

Before we start creating lets take a look at the ingredients that we will be using.

The ingredients used in the formulation of natural makeup

includes: Base additives, colourants, waxes, carrier oils,

butters, essential oils and various botanicals.

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7

Ingredients

Powders used in Natural Makeup

Titanium dioxide

Titanium dioxide is naturally occurring from the mineral

ilmenite. It is a very bright and very refractive (only

surpassed by diamonds) powder. It is used to lighten colour,

so by adding titanium dioxide to carmine, you can change a

red lipstick to a pink. It is soothing to the skin as well as

being a great sun block. Has a high adhesion and coverage in

mineral makeup and lipsticks.

Zinc oxide

Zinc oxide naturally produced from zinc ore and has a

slightly sticky feel. Like titanium, zinc protects the skin

against sunburn. In addition zinc has anti-fungal properties,

calms irritated skin and helps with skin conditions such as

acne, roscaea and redness. Has a high adhesion and coverage

in mineral makeup and lipsticks.

Butters, Vegetable Oils and Waxes

Butters: Both shea butter and cocoa butters are useful in lipsticks and add some protection against the sun as well as

adding healing properties.

Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii) Shea butter is derived from the pits of the fruit of the African

butter tree which also grows in central Africa. Shea butter

provides some skin protection against UV radiation, is ant-

inflammatory and sooths and softens dry, chapped skin.


8

Cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) Cocoa butter is obtained from roasted cocoa beans and has a

distinct odour. It is soothing to the skin and is good for

wrinkles and furrows.

Oils: Any vegetable oil can be used in lipsticks; the ones I like to use are castor and jojoba oils as they have a long shelf

life. Other oils, such as sesame, sweet almond and hemp seed

oil, can replace either castor oil or jojoba in the recipes, but

they do go rancid eventually. The shelf life of these oils can

be extended with the addition of vitamin E. For further

reading of carrier oils, please refer to the book, The Creamy Craft of Cosmetic Making.

Castor oil (Ricinus communis) Castor oil is the oil most often used in lipsticks and lip

glosses. It gives a nice shine, helps to disperse the pigments

and has an acceptable odour, taste, colour whilst being

inexpensive.

Jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis)

Jojoba oil is composed of different liquid wax esters similar

to human sebaceous glands. Jojoba oil is derived from jojoba

beans. However, it is technically not an oil, but a liquid wax,

which replaced sperm whale oil in the cosmetics industry

when the whale became an endangered species. As an added

bonus, it is an environmental aid, as planting it saves arid

land from becoming desert. The chemical structure not only

resembles sebum, but the latter can dissolve in it, which

makes it useful in the case of acne. The fact that it is also

indicated for dry skin, psoriasis and eczema shows it to be

balancing, useful for all skin types. One important quality of

jojoba oil is that it becomes firm at temperatures below 50oF.

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9

Creams containing jojoba oil become very firm in the

refrigerator. High quality jojoba oil is without colour or

odour, making it ideal for cosmetics. Another great quality is

that it does not become rancid.

Waxes and Gums

Beeswax Beeswax is a glandular excretion product from bees.

Beeswax has one of the lowest melting points of natural

waxes 61 - 68 oC, and is less hard than the other waxes

which make the lipstick smooth and pleasant to apply. We

use the beeswax in lipsticks, eye and lip pencils and mascara.

Candelilla wax (Euphorbia antisyphilitica) Candelilla wax is a natural plant wax extracted from the

leaves of the candelilla plant, with a melting point 69 - 73

oC, candelilla wax gives a nice gloss to lipsticks.

Carnauba wax (Copernicia cerifera) Carnauba wax is a natural plant wax exuded by the leaves of

a palm tree (see Latin name) and is the hardest natural wax

available, providing hardness and rigidity to lipsticks, lip and

eye pencils. Carnauba wax has a melting point of 80 - 85 oC.

Ceteareth - 20 A non-ionic polyoxyethylene ether of saturated fatty alcohols

(cetyl stearyl alcohol). It is soluble in water and alcohol to

form a colloid solution. It is compatible with fats, oils and

active ingredients and is used for all kinds of emulsion-based

cosmetic products like creams, lotions hair conditioners and

sunscreen lotions.


10

Gum Arabic Gum Arabic is a natural dried exudate from the stems and

branches of the Acacia tree in Africa. Gum Arabic has

thickening, adhesive and film forming properties, and is used

for the making of mascara, brow and lash gels.

Stearic acid Stearic acid is a fatty acid occurring naturally in vegetable

fats. Soluble in oils and alcohols, it has good emulsifying

and thickening properties (stabilizes emulsions). Stearic acid

is widely used in personal care products including soaps,

creams, lotions, and creams.

Xanthan Gum A gum produced by a pure culture fermentation of a

carbohydrate with xanthomonas campestris, this is widely

used as a thickener in the cosmetic and food industries.

There are many grades of xanthan gum. The one I use is fine

meshed, which provides thickness without causing a lumpy

uneven texture.

Essential oils

The following essential oils can be safely used in liquid

foundations, lip sticks, Lip glosses and lip balms. For more

information on essential oils used in skin care; please refer to

The Creamy Craft of Cosmetic Making.

Lavender (Lavendula angustifolia)

The soothing, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties of

lavender make it valuable for many skin conditions, and its

well-loved aroma lends itself to blending in creams and

lotions. Lavender will also stimulate the growth of healthy

new cells making it effective for cracked skin, eczema, boils,

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11

wounds and burns. It is helpful for acne as it inhibits the

bacteria which causes the skin infection while soothing the

skin, helping to balance the over secretion of sebum.

Lime (Citrus aurantifolia)

Lime is obtained by the cold expression of the peel and is a

refreshing tonic for the skin. It helps to stimulate the

lymphatic system helping conditions such as obesity,

cellulitis and water retention.

Mandarin (Citrus reticulata)

Mandarin improves the circulation of the blood and lymph

particularly below the skin which keeps the skin looking

young and vibrant. Promotes the growth of new cells thereby

the appearance of stretch marks and scars are diminished.

Because of its gentle and antispasmodic effects, it is widely

used in pregnancy and baby care

Myrrh (Commiphora myrrha)

Myrrh is extracted from a desert tree that grows in the

Middle East. Its thick reddish-brown oil is obtained through

extraction and distillation of its resin.

The three wise men knew a thing or two about myrrh as it

was widely used by the Egyptians in embalming. Myrrh oil

is rejuvenating, fungicidal, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic,

cooling and astringent.

Orange sweet (Citrus aurantium)

Orange is obtained by the cold expression of the peel of the

fruit and is effective for dull and oily skins as well as for

general skin care. It helps to stimulate the lymphatic system

which helps conditions such as obesity, cellulite, and water

retention.


12

Peppermint (Mentha piperita)

Lipstick as a study aid! Why not? Imagine wearing a lipstick

that not only makes you look good but improves your

concentration as well. Peppermint relieves anxiety and

depression, increases mental agility, helps with mental

fatigue, removes bad breath, relieves headaches, nausea,

sinus congestion and so much more.

Rose (Rosa damascena and Rosa Centifolia)

Here we have one of the most valuable commodities on the

perfume and essential oil market. Rose oil is extracted by

varying methods, depending on the country of origin. The

finest rose oil and the most costly is from Bulgaria known as

Bulgaria Rose Otto, extracted from the Damask rose.

Rose oil is a highly effective ingredient in natural skin care

products. It is anti-inflammatory, astringent, toning and

rejuvenating, helping most skin problems including: eczema,

dry, sensitive and mature skin.

Spearmint (Mentha Spicata)

Gentler than peppermint, spearmint has similar properties.

Good for the brain and helps with concentration, relieves

stress, helps with headache and migraines, sinus congestion

and dental care. Because of its gentle nature, spearmint can

be safely used in childrens lip balms.

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13

Botanicals

Marine algae extract and gel Red algae extracts (Hypernea musciformis, Gellididela acerosa, Sargassum

filendula and sorbitol)

The seaweed extract and gels that I use dries quickly on the

skin and has lasting power. Great to use as a base ingredient

for making healthy lip stains and eye liners.

Seaweed is an anti-oxidant and is full of easy to absorb

proteins, vitamins, minerals and lipids. Repairing and

protecting the skin and hair, it reduces oiliness and sebum

over-production and strengthens against damage caused by

free radicals.

Colour Pigments

Basically three different types of colourants are used in the

making of natural makeup. These include inorganic mineral

pigments, micas, and carmine.

Inorganic mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, zinc

oxide, iron oxides, (yellow, red, brown and black),

ultramarines and micas.

In the making of lipstick, lip gloss and lip stains, the use of

oxides and micas can make many different shades of lip

colours. For true reds and pinks the only colourant that I

have found so far that doesnt involve the use of *FD&C and D&C colourants is carmine.

*These artificial colours are made from petroleum and coal

tar, and are believed to be cancer causing agents. They

penetrate the skin, can cause allergies and are irritants to

the skin and eyes. They are found on labels as FD&C, or

D&C and are followed by a colour and a number.


14

Oxides Oxides are non-toxic, naturally occurring from irons such as

hematite. In nature they are often combined with harmful

metals such as lead, and mercury, so they have to be

processed and refined before they can be used in cosmetics.

They are used in practically in all mineral makeup. The

colours come in many different shades with the most

common ones being; yellow, red, brown, black, ultra marine

blue and chromium green oxide.

Mica powder

Micas are non-toxic occurring naturally from the minerals

muscovite and silicate. Mica if smaller than 20 microns,

gives a satiny appearance while large micas provide a

sparkly effect. Micas are then coated with various oxides,

carmine and titanium dioxide to give a full range of colours.

Micas are used as a second colour to achieve different shades

and to add shimmer.

Carmine

Carmine is derived from the cochineal beetle. This colourant

was used by the ancient Aztecs and it is said that Cleopatras lipstick was made from carmine. Carmine is considered safe

and as a natural red colour is used in alcoholic beverages and

food.

Carmine

Jan Benham

15

Working with colours

Making makeup is all about working with colours. To get

your perfect shade you will need to be able to work with the

colours to re-create your favourite lipstick, eye shadow and

foundation etc.

Dont worry in this book; there are tons of recipes to get you started. Once you are confident in working with the

pigments, then you can start creating your own shades.

So how does colour work?

Colour is a component of light. Light travels in different

waves, speed and length. If a light beam reaches our eye, we

experience the sensation of colour.

To work with colour we need to work with a colour wheel.

Here is an example of a colour wheel


16

To get a full spectrum of colours we start with the primary

colours of yellow, blue and red.

From these colours we get the secondary colours of orange,

green and purple.

Red and yellow create orange

Yellow and blue create green

Red and blue create purple

If you mix equal amounts of all three of the primary colours,

you get brown.

Titanium dioxide (white) lightens the shade, if you mix equal

amounts of carmine (red) and titanium dioxide, you will get

a pink.

White and black can be used in different measurements for

creating a variety of shades.

When I was in art school, the teacher had us make a colour

formulation starting with red, yellow and blue, then making

the secondary colours, going on to mixing red and purple,

green and red, yellow and purple etc.

We were allowed to use only the primary colours of red,

yellow and blue. We then added white or black to change the

shade.

I like to do the same thing when making makeup and have

had students create many different colours and shades for

eye shadows and lipsticks using the same formula.

Jan Benham

17

PART THREE


18

Tools of the trade

To begin, you will need the following equipment.

Equipment needed for making lipstick, lip gloss, pencils

and mascaras:

Coffee grinder for grinding up micas and oxides etc. I usually have at least three grinders: One for

red/orange/pink coloured pigments, one for

blue/green/black coloured pigments and one for the

white powders.

An electronic scale that measures both ounces and milligrams.

Measuring spoons plus 0.15cc mini scoops.

Plastic or surgical gloves

Mask for during and after grinding. You can take it off again once the particles have settled.

A double boiler (A heat resistant glass beaker that fits into a saucepan).

Popsicle sticks

Packaging product such as empty lip balm and mascara tubes and pencils etc. (If you wish to make

professional shop style lipsticks, then you will need a

lipstick mould and empty lipstick tubes).

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19

Setting up your work place

Good ventilation is a must, especially when using the grinder.

Paper cover on your work surface makes for an easier clean up.

Practice good hygiene; wipe the surfaces and tools down with alcohol. I use vodka.

Wear an apron or some clothes designated for making makeup.


20

PART FOUR

Jan Benham

21

Lipsticks Experimental lipsticks

Suggestion: Make small amounts of lipstick at the beginning

until you get your ideal colour. The following recipe makes 2

to 3 lipsticks.

Ingredients:

1 teaspoon Castor oil

1 teaspoon Jojoba oil

teaspoon. Beeswax

teaspoon Candelilla wax

teaspoon Shea butter

Method:

Pour everything into a glass container, heat until the wax and

oil has melted. Do not over heat. Stir with a disposable

plastic spatula or popsicle stick.

Add your pre blended (grinded in a coffee blender) colour

concentrate (begin with teaspoon you will want to work

quickly stirring this in until very well dispersed). Check the

colour by rubbing a bit on the back of your hand, if you need

more add in a very small amount at a time.

Fill your lip balm tube, let dry completely for at least 30

minutes. If the top of your lip balm shrinks, simply reheat the

left over and add a couple of drops to the top.

I make my lipstick base in advance and just take the amounts

needed for each batch.


22

The following batch will make x

Lipstick Recipe Base

Part one

Ingredients:

15gms Beeswax

30gms Candelilla wax

25gms Shea butter

120gms Castor oil

120gms Jojoba oil

2 capsules Vitamin E

10 15 drops Essential oil (optional)

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Method:

Sterilize all utensils, product containers, and workshop surfaces. Wipe utensils down with alcohol.

Melt the waxes, butters and vegetable oils in a double boiler.

While the waxes are melting, grind the pigments well in either a mortal and pestle or a coffee grinder.

When the wax is almost melted, add the vitamin E.

When the waxes are completely melted, remove from the heat and remove the beaker from the saucepan.

Add pigments see part two.

Blend in essential oils if desired.

Part two

Grind the pigments, micas and oxides together, stirring in between with a popsicle stick.

Add the coloured pigments to the melted waxes and stir well with a disposable spatula.

Immediately pour the mixture into the empty lip balm tubes or lipstick moulds. Place in the refrigerator.

Remove hour later and, if using a professional lipstick mould place in the lipstick tube.


24

Lipstick Recipe No 1 Bella rosa

Ingredients: To 55gms of the lipstick base,

Add the following pigments:

1 teaspoon Carmine

1 teaspoon Titanium dioxide

teaspoon Pearl white mica

Method:

Follow the instructions on page 23.

The Bella rosa lipstick in a professional mould and

in the lipstick tube

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25

Lipstick Recipe No 2 Spice



2 teaspoons Sienna mica

teaspoon Red oxide

teaspoon Zinc oxide

Method:



26

Lipstick Recipe No 3 Coco La Crme



2 teaspoons Aruben Coral mica

teaspoon Red oxide

teaspoon Zinc oxide

Method:


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Lipstick Recipe No 4 Baby Pink



1 teaspoon Carmine

1 teaspoon Titanium dioxide

Method:



28

Lipstick Recipe No 5 Ruby



1 teaspoon Carmine

teaspoon Zinc oxide

Method:


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29

Lipstick Recipe No 6 Chocolate Kisses



One piece of melted dark chocolate

2 teaspoons Aruben Coral mica

teaspoon Titanium dioxide

teaspoon Zinc oxide

Method:



30

Lip gloss

Lip gloss Recipe No 1

Ingredients:

2.5gms Beeswax

2.5gms Candelilla wax

5gms Shea butter

70gms Castor oil

20gms Fractionated coconut oil

10gms Sesame oil

2 capsules Vitamin E

Part two

1 teaspoon Carrot root oil.

teaspoon Orange oxide mix (equal amounts of red and yellow oxide ground together)

teaspoon Fine gold mica

20 drops Sweet orange or mandarin essential oil

Method:

Pour everything into a glass container, heat until the wax is

melted. Do not overheat. Stir with disposable spatulas,

popsicle sticks work well.

Add part two to the melted waxes and oils and mix well.

Fill empty lip gloss tubes with a syringe.

Recipe No 2 To part one when the waxes and oils have melted, add 1

teaspoon of hot pink mica, teaspoon Ultra shimmer mica

and 20 drops of essential oil of choice e.g. spearmint or lime.

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Colourfast lip stain This is a healthy alternative to the commercial long lasting

lip stains that are on the market.

Ingredients:

Seaweed extract

Pigment blends

Method: To 1 teaspoon of seaweed extract, add teaspoon of

pigment blend/s, mix well and syringe into a lip gloss

vial/tube.

Suggested pigment blends For a red stain; extract add teaspoon carmine to 1

teaspoon seaweed extract.

For a pink stain; add teaspoon carmine and teaspoon

titanium dioxide ground well together, to 1 teaspoon

seaweed extract.

For any other colours: Add teaspoon of any of the lipstick

pigment blends to 1 teaspoon of the seaweed extract.

Hint: Once I have my lipstick colours for the season; I make

larger batches of pigment blends and use as needed.

To use:

Apply in one go on the lower lip from one side to the other

side without stopping and do the same with the upper lip. Let

it dry for a few seconds keeping lips open, apply again.

Once dry you can then apply lip gloss or lipstick over the

colour fast stain.


32

PART FIVE

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Cosmetic Pencils Cosmetic pencil pencils are used for lips, eyebrows and

eyeliners.

Lip liners should have high pigment coverage to accent the

line of the lip, and should be firm enough not to run into the

lines around the lip.

Eye brow liners are used to create the illusion of fuller brows

or to cover areas that have no hair. Brow liners should be

harder than lip or eyeliners.

Eyeliners should glide without tugging or pulling the skin on

the eyelid.

Cosmetic liners consist mainly of waxes, oils and pigments.

Good pigment coverage is necessary so the wax/pigment

level is high and the oil level is low, except for eye brow

liners which usually contain less pigment so as to tint rather

than colour.

The amount of waxes in pencils is in the range of 20-40%.

Stearic acid is added along with waxes to provide a firmer

structure. The amount of oils used is often as much as 25%

of the formula because pigments absorb oils and are used at

high concentrations.

The pigments used are iron oxides, carmine and micas.


34

Lip liner pencil

Recipe Ingredients:



teaspoon Beeswax

teaspoon Stearic acid

teaspoon Carnauba wax

Method:

Pour everything into a glass container, place in a hot water

bath and heat until the wax is melted. Do not over heat, stir

with a disposable plastic spatula or popsicle stick.

Add your pre grounded colour concentrate to the above

melted waxes, see following recipes:

Coco La Crme: 1 teaspoon red oxide, 1 teaspoon zinc

oxide and teaspoon aruben coral mica.

Blazing gun: 1 teaspoon orange oxide, and teaspoon

umber mica.

Pink flamengo: 1 teaspoon carmine, teaspoon titanium

dioxide and teaspoon pearl white mica.

To fill your lip pencil, if you dont have a pencil mould! Your pencil comes in three parts: the pencil, a metal end

piece and the plastic cover. Place the metal end piece on the

pencil, and aspirate the hot liquid with a syringe into the

other end of the pencil. It is important to have a syringe tip

that fits into the pencil. Place the lip liner in the refrigerator

for at least hour. Afterwards, it will be ready for

sharpening.

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35

Eye liner pencil

Recipe Ingredients:



teaspoon Beeswax


teaspoon Carnauba wax

Method:

Pour everything into a glass container, place in a hot water

bath and heat until the wax is melted. Do not over heat, stir

with a disposable plastic spatula or popsicle stick

Add your pre-grounded colour concentrate to the above

melted waxes, see following recipes:

White pencil: 1 teaspoon titanium dioxide and teaspoon

pearl white mica.

Cinnamon girl: 1 teaspoon brown oxide and teaspoon

fine gold mica.

Bedroom eyes: 1 teaspoon black oxide and 1 teaspoon

titanium dioxide.

Irish eyes: 1 teaspoon green oxide and teaspoon fine gold

mica.

To fill your lip pencil, if you dont have a pencil mould! Your pencil comes in three parts: the pencil, a metal end

piece and the plastic cover. Place the metal end piece on the

pencil, and aspirate the hot liquid with a syringe into the

other end of the pencil. It is important to have a syringe tip

that fits into the pencil. Place the lip liner in the refrigerator

for at least hour. Afterwards, it will be ready for

sharpening.


36

Filling the pencil and taking it out of the mould.

Irish eyes eye pencil

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37

PART SIX

Concealer


38

More Recipes

Cover sticks

Cover stick No 1 Part one:

130gms Jojoba

17gms Beeswax

10gms Carnauba wax

Part two

130gms Foundation pigment blend

from the Mineral Makeup Manual

5 drops Lavender essential oil

10 drops Tea tree essential oil

Melt the waxes and oils in a heat resistant glass jar and when

melted add the pigment and essential oils. Pour into a lipstick

mould, jar or cosmetic pot.

Cover stick No 2

Melt 40gms of the lipstick base, when melted add 20gms of

the foundation pigment blend. Pour into a lipstick mould, jar

or cosmetic pot.

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Liquid Foundation

Place 7 teaspoons of the white base powder number 3 from

the Mineral makeup manual and add - 1 teaspoon of your

choice of pigment concentrate. Grind, stir and grind again.

To make the foundation liquid, add teaspoon of the

above powder blend, (I would suggest either sunkissed or

terra cotta) to 20ml of the basic white lotion, the recipe is

available in the creamy craft of cosmetic making book.

If you want to make foundation that works for all skin

colours from Caucasian to Asian to African, the above

foundation works along with the following two:

Dark brown, add 1 teaspoon of brown or dark brown oxide

to 20ml of the basic white lotion.

White, add 1 teaspoon of titanium dioxide to 20ml of the

basic white lotion.

When mixing and matching skin tones, the above three

foundations can be blended to match any skin tone. This is

especially helpful when dealing with skins that have

irregular skin pigmentation.


40

Eyeliner

Ingredients:

Seaweed extract

Pigment blends

Method: To 1 teaspoon of seaweed extract add up to teaspoon of

pigment blend/s, mix well and put into an eyeliner container.

Some eyeliner suggestions:

Cleopatra eyes: Mix teaspoon black oxide in 1 teaspoon

seaweed extract.

Cinnamon girl: Mix teaspoon brown oxide in 1 teaspoon

seaweed extract.

Bedroom eyes: teaspoon black oxide and teaspoon

titanium dioxide ground well together, to 1 teaspoon

seaweed extract.

Jan Benham

41

Mascara

Mascara consists of a blend of waxes, pigments, texturizers,

emulsifiers and solvents.

Part one

124gms Distilled water

teaspoon Xanthan gum

1 teaspoon Glycerin

teaspoon Gum arabic

1 big drop Provitamin B5

1 big drop Grapefruit seed extract

Part two

2 teaspoons Ceteareth 20


teaspoon Candelilla wax

1 teaspoon Carnauba wax

2 teaspoons Beeswax

Part three

4 teaspoons Black oxide.

1 or more teaspoon Mica of choice.

Melt part one in one heat resistant glass beaker and part two

in another glass beaker. When both are fully melted add part

one to part two and stir well. Add part three to the above and

fill the mascara containers using a syringe.


42

Stimulash eye liner

Ingredients:

1 teaspoon Seaweed extract

1 teaspoon Oxide/blend of choice

Method

Simply mix the colour pigments into the seaweed extract.

Package in a pot or if possible, an empty eyeliner tube using

a syringe.

Jan Benham

43

Your notes and recipes


44


Jan Benham

45



46

If you enjoyed this manual, check books by the author.

The Creamy Craft of Cosmetic Making with essential oils

and their friends, 2011 as well as being another cream

making book, studies the use of essential oils and carrier oils

in skin, body and hair care products. Also included is

treatments for body care especially cellulite and fat

reduction, along with a diet and plan of action. Care of the

skin is covered including treatments for stretch marks,

varicose veins and aches and pains.

The Baby Boomers Beauty Bible, 2011 contains tips on

how to keep your skin looking healthy and youthful with

easy user-friendly recipes for various anti-ageing treatments

and skin problems.

Presented with straightforward advice for body care that

includes suggestions to soothe the soul and stimulate the

mind.

Included in this book are recipes for skin care, natural

deodorants, hair shampoos and conditioners.

Coming soon: The Mineral Makeup Maunal, 2012

Jan Benham

47

We offer Holistic Health Practitioner, Aromatherapy and Aroma Cosmetology

courses.

We also carry supplies for making your own line of cosmetics and custom make for companies

around the world.

Organic Skin, Hair, Body Care Products Makeup natural lipsticks and mineral makeup

Natural cold pressed Soap

Canada The Aroma shoppe Ltd.,

Toronto, Ontario E-mail: [email protected]

www.aromashoppe.com

Great Britain The Aroma Shoppe Tel: 01623 797100

E-mail: [email protected] www.janbenham.co.uk

Members of the International Federation of Professional Aromatherapists, UK, The International Federation of

Holistic Therapists, UK, and the Canadian Examining Board of Health Care Practitioners, Canada.


48

About the Author

Jan Benham is the President of the Institute of Aromatherapy and Aroma

Shoppe. She has been a holistic therapist,

practicing and teaching for over twenty

years. Jan taught Aromatherapy for Shirley

Price in the early 80s, one of the pioneers and founders of aromatherapy in the UK.

Jan is a fellow member of the Society of

Health and Beauty Therapists UK,

member of the International Federation of

Holistic Therapists UK, member of the

International Federation of Professional Aromatherapists, UK, a

Registered Aromatherapy Health Practitioner with the Canadian

Examining Board of Health Care Practitioners and past President

of the Canadian Federation of Aromatherapists.

Jan owns schools in Canada and the UK, and offers various

workshops including: cosmetic making, aromatherapy, and Aroma

Cosmetology - Holistic Skin Care. Her Certified Natural Health

Practitioner Courses are known all over the world.

Jan is also a tutor at the Shirley Price College in the UK and New

Directions Aromatics.

Jan is the author of books about all-natural and holistic cosmetics:

The Creamy Craft of Cosmetic Making, 2011, The Baby Boomers

Beauty Bible, 2011), The Little Book of Lipsticks, 2010 and is

currently working on her fourth book: The Mineral Makeup

Manual.

As well as being an author and a consultant, Jan regularly gives

press, TV and radio interviews, and contributes to journals and

magazines.

the natural makeup manual

Documents

white makeup

elaborate makeup

holistic makeup

mineral makeup manual

heavy use of makeup

natural alternatives

natural expansion

natural products