the prague preview | autumn 2016

2
… and many other complimentary titles to pick up at our visitor centres, where we’ll be glad to help. Na Můstku – Rytířská 12, Prague 1, open daily 9am-7pm Old Town Hall – Old Town Square 1, Prague 1, open daily 9am-7pm © Prague City Tourism Arbesovo nám. 70/4 / Praha 5 / 150 00 / CZ www.praguecitytourism.com I Rohanský Island Štvanice Island Lyčkovo Sq. Karlínské Sq. Vítkov Hill The St. Claire vineyard, Prague Botanical Garden INSIDE: • Calendar of events • Get to know: Karlín • Autumn holidays • Prague loves wine • Taste of the season ...AND MUCH MORE HOW TO GET THERE Metro B – Křižíkova or Invalidovna – from Invalidovna take a stroll to Karlín via Kaizlovy Sady park Tram – 3, 8 (night line 52) Přívoz P7 (March-October) on the Pražská tržnice – Rohanský ostrov/island route Would you like to take a stroll through Karlín or other Prague districts outside the centre, discover their charm and enjoy scenic views? Then pick up a copy of our new brochure Five Prague Walks, which is available for free in our visitor centres, or download it from our website www.prague.eu. The gigantic memorial at Vítkov is among the buildings added to Prague’s visage by the stormy 20th century. This modernist memorial dominates Prague’s Vítkov Hill, where one of the famous Hussite battles took place in 1420. It has been a feature of Prague’s skyline since the end of the 1920s. Its grandeur culminates in an equestrian statue of the fearsome Hussite leader, Jan Žižka. At nine metres high, this 16-ton bronze monument is the third largest of its kind in the world. It depicts the commander who led the victorious campaign against the Crusaders in 1420, and who gave the Prague district Žižkov its name. The marble monument is itself of interest, not least for its stunning Art Deco interiors. While originally meant to commemorate the Legionnaires of WWI and the founding of the independent Czechoslovak Republic, from 1953 to 1962 it served as a mausoleum for the first Communist President, Klement Gottwald. It took its inspiration from Lenin’s Tomb in Moscow’s Red Square. Although this is fairly recent history, truth is already becoming laced with legend. Yes, the mummification was undertaken by Soviet experts; no, it was not a great success, apparently due to the first President having pre-pickled himself in alcohol. And so, in its later years the macabre relic was replaced by a wax figure of Gottwald. For better or worse, Gottwald’s era is remembered in the permanent historical exhibition at the monument, now operated by the National Museum. You can savour one of the most beautiful views of the historical city from right by the statue of Jan Žižka or, even better, from the roof of the Memorial itself. The viewing deck is open on selected days throughout the year. Můj šálek kávy (Křižíkova 105) This non-smoking café was a pioneer of quality coffee in Karlín, and is still a local favourite. Kafe Karlín (Sokolovská 51) This espresso bar serves a selection of fine coffees by roasters from home and abroad. Simply good (Sokolovská 70) Traditional Czech kolaches and other sweets from the family bakery will soon have you hooked. Nejen Bistro (Křižíkova 24) Tasty dishes from (not only) the Josper Grill and a stylish interior with an open kitchen make this a fine choice for a midday meal or relaxed dinner. Lokál Hamburk (Sokolovská 55) Great Pilsner beer flows in cascades here, but don’t forget to taste their homey Czech cooking. Bistro Roh 21 (Pobřežní 21) This bistro on the corner of the Main Point building tempts diners with global flavors and décor by Czech graffiti guru Pasta Oner. Premier Mercato (Pobřežní 42) In addition to great food, you can also take away delicacies from small farms across Europe. Krystal Bistro (Sokolovská 101) The chefs here specialize in French country cuisine, served without unnecessary pomp. Proti proudu (Březinova 22) Head here for some fine sandwiches, imaginative desserts or just a glass of Prosecco. Eska (Pernerova 49) The flavours of seasonal dishes from this restaurant will take you to the Czech countryside, via Scandinavia. The interior design matches the cuisine. Garage (Křižíkova 58) The only place in Prague to treat yourself to poutine, the Canadian specialty. Veltlin (Křižíkova 115) A wine bar specializing in wines of the former Austro-Hungarian Empire makes a great place for a sundowner. Tea Mountain (Křižíkova 115) This is the place for all things tea. They import it to Prague from personally approved growers. THE VÍTKOV MEMORIAL Do you need assistance with accommodation or transport, or advice where to go for entertainment or dinner? Come and ask at one of our five tourist information centres. Our experienced colleagues will help you book tickets to concerts or tours, buy your Prague Card tourist pass, get tasteful Prague souvenirs, or choose a professional guide around the city. Prague City Tourism information centres can be found in downtown Prague and at the airport: Na Můstku – Rytířská 12, Prague 1, open daily 9am-7pm Old Town Hall – Old Town Square 1, Prague 1, daily 9am-7pm; Tour guiding – weekdays 9am-7pm, weekends 9am-5pm Wenceslas Square – corner of Wenceslas Square and Štěpánská, Prague 1, daily 10am-6pm Václav Havel Airport Prague - Terminal 1 – open daily 8am-8pm Václav Havel Airport Prague - Terminal 2 – open daily 8am-8pm www.prague.eu Prague City Tourism is here to help you! Prague PREVIEW Get to know: The view from the roof of the National Memorial atop Vítkov Hill – Žižkov on the leſt, Karlín on the right. KARLÍN Prague City Tourism Maps and Guides will make you feel at home in Prague. The once drab Karlín district, squeezed between the River Vltava and Vítkov Hill, paradoxically acquired a new lease on life from the devastating flood of 2002. Today it is a vibrant part of the metropolis, attracting especially the young and hip. Locals and visitors head here for the trendy cafés and bistros, but also for the cultural venues in former factory halls. Some liken it to London’s Soho, others find the spacious streets lined with trees reminiscent of the hipster districts of Berlin. Karlín today represents its own blend of an industrial past, Art Nouveau elegance and modern architecture springing up within reach of the river. A few years ago you’d be hard pressed to find a place to eat or grab a coffee. Now the options for gourmet exploration are many. Where the port once used to be, Karlín now shows its futuristic face. The extensive River City project has remarkable office buildings, designed by American, French and Danish architects. You pass buildings bearing the names of the world’s major rivers – Danube House, Amazon Court and Nile House – to arrive at ‘Port 18600’, named aſter the local zip code. This charming spot is the work of a group of locals who wanted to turn a neglected Vltava waterside into a place that entices you to relax, socialize and enjoy some culture. Here, you can play volleyball, the kids can enjoy themselves on a submarine-shaped climbing frame, there’s a seasonal bar, and for 100 crowns you can rent your own barbecue grill. Changes are also in store for the Negrelli viaduct, which forms the imaginary border between Karlín and the New Town. This railway bridge first enabled trains to cross the Vltava River in 1850 and with its 1110 metres was the longest bridge in Europe until the early 20th century. Nowadays it hosts pop-up bistros and the occasional concert; by next year, the bridge arches should be firmly occupied by cafe proprietors, gallerists, and sellers of delicacies or design. Nearby, Karlínské Square with its Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius is the site of Saturday farmers’ markets offering seasonal fruit, vegetables, homemade pastries, cheese, and cold cuts. The loveliest among Karlín squares is a couple blocks away: nearby Lyčkovo Square with its park and stately school building. From Rags to Riches Fans of industrial architecture mustn’t miss Pernerova street, once the site of the engineering conglomerate ČKD. These days you’ll find Forum Karlín here, one of the best concert halls in the city; a popular restaurant/bakery operates in the same complex. Once the birthplace of steam engine boilers, the complex received its current look courtesy of the famed Catalan architect Ricardo Bofill. Just as good is the refurbishment of the adjacent boiler and machine room with its unmissable 150-foot chimney. We suggest you round off your visit to Karlín with a peek at the majestic panorama of the city from the top of Vítkov Hill, or, better still, from the rooſtop of the local Memorial (see next article). The shortest way there is through the Hill itself – via the pedestrian Žižkov tunnel, which connects Karlín to the neighbouring district of Žižkov. the AUTUMN2016 I think it was Professor Parkinson who expressed the benevolent notion that “every change is for the worse.” I do hope that this does not apply to our new publication. In this new format, our coverage of Prague has expanded to cover interesting facts and places not every visitor sees. We hope to describe these sites or events sufficiently well to arouse curiosity and interest. We want to take you to the hidden, forgotten or seldom-seen places and give you tips for your stay in our capital city. Of course, all this is accompanied by an overview of the most important cultural, sporting and social events for the upcoming period. Wishing you lots of autumn colour and a lovely stay in Prague, AUTUMN HOLIDAYS Autumn is a time when several holidays are celebrated in the Czech Republic. On these days, monuments and attractions are open to the public as usual; some government buildings hold special hours for public viewing (see www.prague.eu for details), while banks and smaller shops are closed. You might encounter public gatherings, ceremonies and possibly peaceful demonstrations. 28 September – Czech Statehood Day / St. Wenceslas Day This holiday of fairly recent vintage comemmorates the death of Prince Wenceslas I of the Přemyslid dynasty, who was murdered by his brother Boleslav on 28 September AD 935. Despite his short rule, Wenceslas managed to spread Christianity throughout the early Czech state; his martyr’s death made him a venerated figure with the aura of protector and patron of the Czech Lands. His equestrian statue presides over Wenceslas Square. 28 October – Foundation of the Independent Czechoslovak State (1918) The independent Czechoslovak state was declared on 28 October 1918 as one of the successor states to the disintegrated Austro-Hungarian monarchy. Independent Czechoslovakia wouldn’t have been possible without the efforts of T.G. Masaryk, a progressive Czech thinker and scholar who became the new Republic’s first President. The first Czechoslovakia (1918-1938) was a democratic state with well-developed industry and sophisticated cultural output ranging from architecture to film to visual art; its existence was cut short by the Nazi occupation. Czechoslovakia split peacefully into the Czech and Slovak Republics in 1993. 17 November - Struggle for Liberty and Democracy Day There are two historical events associated with this holiday. The first took place in 1939; that autumn, the Czech universities were closed by the Nazis, who proceeded to execute several student leaders. The second event occurred in 1989; on this date, a peaceful student demonstration in then-Communist Prague was brutally suppressed, triggering events that came to be known as the Velvet Revolution and that culminated in the fall of the Communist regime in Czechoslovakia. The most prominent personality of these dramatic weeks was Czech dissident and playwright Václav Havel, who went on to become President of the restored democratic Czechoslovakia and, later, the Czech Republic. DEAR READERS OF OUR NEW QUARTERLY MAGAZINE, For Coffee and something sweet For Lunch or Dinner (and Beer) Something special RECOMMENDED BUSINESSES Nora Dolanská CEO, Prague City Tourism www.prague.eu Prague Loves Wine Prague is very proud of its excellent beer, but did you know that its wine scene has been booming of late? A new guidebook, titled Wine in Prague and published by Prague City Tourism, provides visiting wine lovers with tips for exploring the city’s wine bars and restaurants, explains how to read Czech wine labels, and recommends local varieties to seek out. The guide also provides a bit of context for Prague’s centuries-old history of winemaking; pick it up for free at any Prague City Tourism visitor centre. Autumn is the perfect season to immerse yourself in local wine culture thanks to various vintage festivals that are typically held near one of Prague’s vineyards (see reverse or www.prague.eu for listings). Early autumn is also your only chance to try burčák [boor- chalk], a popular drink that’s only available for a few short weeks. Not yet a true wine, burčák is partially fermented grape juice, sparkling, sweet and jolly. November 11 is the date when St. Martin’s Wine, svatomartinské víno, appears on the market; this revived tradition can be best described as a Central European version of Beaujolais Nouveau. Since the Middle Ages, November 11 has been the date when the year’s young wine was sampled for the first time. As it concluded the harvest season, the day was always associated with much feasting and revelry. If you are in town, you owe it to yourself to try a St. Martin’s menu with roast goose, potato pancakes and, naturally, some young wine. Taste of the Season f ever there were a perfect season for discovering Czech cuisine, it would be autumn. There is nothing wrong with summer salads, of course, but the crisper air and shorter days make one crave the kind of hearty fare that Czech cooking excels at: game meats with creamy sauces, juicy, tangy stewed cabbage, mushrooms (Czechs delight in mushroom hunting and are expert at many different mushroom preparations), and sweet plum and apple pastries. The season’s bounty can be savoured at many restaurants, but Prague’s farmers‘ markets are the best place to start. Typically held on Saturday mornings (an early arrival is essential to avoid lines), they offer much more than local produce and flowers. Indeed, most people frequent them to eat and socialize as much as to shop. The markets’ food offerings tend to be high-quality and vary from expertly prepared coffee to burgers, artisan hot dogs, and grilled cheese sandwiches, to beer, wine, and ever more popular local apple cider, to sweets and crepes. (We especially recommend makovec, a sponge cake made with poppyseeds, a favorite Central European ingredient.) There are many farmers‘ markets to choose from in Prague; the most popular ones are held in the following locations. Náplavka – the scenic riverside promenade on the right bank of the Vltava south of Jiráskův Bridge. Bonus: boats, swans, Castle views, and proximity to Vyšehrad. Náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad Square – a stone’s throw from the city centre. Here the markets are held Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, plus Saturday mornings. Bonus: proximity to the TV tower with spectacular views, plus the pretty neighbourhood is well worth exploring. „Kulaťák“ (Vítězné náměstí/Square in Prague 6 - Dejvice) – the oldest farmers’ market in Prague is located just outside the Dejvická metro stop. Bonus: In addition to Czech producers, there’s always a good selection of imported delicacies from Italy and elsewhere. Interested in exploring Prague’s culinary scene with local ex- perts? Then look no further than Taste of Prague and Eating Prague, two companies that provide outstanding food and beer tours to individuals and small groups; find them at www.tasteofprague.com and www.eatingpraguetours.com. Prague pure emotion

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… and many other complimentary titles to pick up at our visitor centres, where we’ll be glad to help.

• Na Můstku – Rytířská 12, Prague 1, open daily 9am-7pm• Old Town Hall – Old Town Square 1, Prague 1, open daily

9am-7pm

© Prague City TourismArbesovo nám. 70/4 / Praha 5 / 150 00 / CZ

www.praguecitytourism.com

… and many other complimentary titles to pick up at our visitor centres, where we’ll be glad to help.

• Na Můstku – Rytířská 12, Prague 1, open daily 9am-7pm• Old Town Hall – Old Town Square 1, Prague 1, open daily

9am-7pm

© Prague City TourismArbesovo nám. 70/4 / Praha 5 / 150 00 / CZ

I

Rohanský Island

Štvanice Island

Lyčkovo Sq.

Karlínské Sq.

Vítkov Hill

The St. Claire vineyard, Prague Botanical Garden

INSIDE:• Calendar of events

• Get to know: Karlín

• Autumn holidays

• Prague loves wine

• Taste of the season

...AND MUCH MORE

HOW TO GET THERE

Metro B – Křižíkova or Invalidovna – from Invalidovna take a stroll to Karlín via Kaizlovy Sady parkTram – 3, 8 (night line 52)Přívoz P7 (March-October) on the Pražská tržnice – Rohanský ostrov/island route

Would you like to take a stroll through Karlín or other Prague districts outside the centre, discover their charm and enjoy scenic views? Then pick up a copy of our new brochure Five Prague Walks, which is available for free in our visitor centres, or download it from our website www.prague.eu.

The gigantic memorial at Vítkov is among the buildings added to Prague’s visage by the stormy 20th century. This modernist

memorial dominates Prague’s Vítkov Hill, where one of the famous Hussite battles took place in 1420. It has been a feature of Prague’s skyline since the end of the

1920s.

Its grandeur culminates in an equestrian statue of the fearsome Hussite leader,

Jan Žižka. At nine metres high, this 16-ton bronze monument is the third largest of its kind in the world. It depicts the commander

who led the victorious campaign against the Crusaders in 1420, and who gave the

Prague district Žižkov its name.

The marble monument is itself of interest, not least for its stunning Art Deco interiors.

While originally meant to commemorate the Legionnaires of WWI and the founding of the independent Czechoslovak Republic,

from 1953 to 1962 it served as a mausoleum for the � rst Communist President, Klement Gottwald. It took its inspiration from Lenin’s

Tomb in Moscow’s Red Square. Although this is fairly recent history, truth is already

becoming laced with legend. Yes, the mummi� cation was undertaken by Soviet

experts; no, it was not a great success, apparently due to the � rst President having pre-pickled himself in alcohol. And so, in its later years the macabre relic was replaced

by a wax � gure of Gottwald.

For better or worse, Gottwald’s era is remembered in the permanent historical

exhibition at the monument, now operated by the National Museum.

You can savour one of the most beautiful views of the historical city from right by the

statue of Jan Žižka or, even better, from the roof of the Memorial itself. The viewing deck is open on selected days throughout

the year.

Můj šálek kávy (Křižíkova 105)This non-smoking café was a pioneer of quality co� ee in Karlín, and is still a local favourite.

Kafe Karlín (Sokolovská 51)This espresso bar serves a selection of � ne co� ees by roasters from home and abroad.

Simply good (Sokolovská 70)Traditional Czech kolaches and other sweets from the family bakery will soon have you hooked.

Nejen Bistro (Křižíkova 24)Tasty dishes from (not only) the Josper Grill and a stylish interior with an open kitchen make this a � ne choice for a midday meal or relaxed dinner.

Lokál Hamburk (Sokolovská 55)Great Pilsner beer flows in cascades here, but don’t forget to taste their homey Czech cooking.

Bistro Roh 21 (Pobřežní 21)This bistro on the corner of the Main Point building tempts diners with global flavors and décor by Czech gra� ti guru Pasta Oner.

Premier Mercato (Pobřežní 42)In addition to great food, you can also take away delicacies from small farms across Europe.

Krystal Bistro (Sokolovská 101)The chefs here specialize in French country cuisine, served without unnecessary pomp.

Proti proudu (Březinova 22)Head here for some � ne sandwiches, imaginative desserts or just a glass of Prosecco.

Eska (Pernerova 49)The flavours of seasonal dishes from this restaurant will take you to the Czech countryside, via Scandinavia. The interior design matches the cuisine.

Garage (Křižíkova 58)The only place in Prague to treat yourself to poutine, the Canadian specialty.

Veltlin (Křižíkova 115)A wine bar specializing in wines of the former Austro-Hungarian Empire makes a great place for a sundowner.

Tea Mountain (Křižíkova 115)This is the place for all things tea. They import it to Prague from personally approved growers.

THE VÍTKOV MEMORIAL

Do you need assistance with accommodation or transport, or advice where to go for entertainment or dinner? Come and ask at one of our five tourist information centres. Our experienced colleagues will help you book tickets to concerts or tours, buy your Prague Card tourist pass, get tasteful Prague souvenirs, or choose a professional guide around the city.

Prague City Tourism information centres can be found in downtown Prague and at the airport:

• Na Můstku – Rytířská 12, Prague 1, open daily 9am-7pm

• Old Town Hall – Old Town Square 1, Prague 1, daily 9am-7pm; Tour guiding – weekdays 9am-7pm, weekends 9am-5pm

• Wenceslas Square – corner of Wenceslas Square and Štěpánská, Prague 1, daily 10am-6pm

• Václav Havel Airport Prague - Terminal 1 – open daily 8am-8pm

• Václav Havel Airport Prague - Terminal 2 – open daily 8am-8pm

www.prague.eu

Prague City Tourism is here to help you!

PraguePREVIEW

Get to know:

The view from the roof of the National Memorial atop Vítkov Hill – Žižkov on the le¤ , Karlín on the right.

KARLÍN

Prague City Tourism Maps and Guides will make you feel at home in Prague.

The once drab Karlín district, squeezed between the River Vltava and Vítkov Hill, paradoxically acquired a new lease on life from the devastating flood of 2002. Today it is a vibrant part of the metropolis, attracting especially the young and hip. Locals and visitors head here for the trendy cafés and bistros, but also for the cultural venues in former factory halls.

Some liken it to London’s Soho, others � nd the spacious streets lined with trees reminiscent of the hipster districts of Berlin. Karlín today represents its own blend of an industrial past, Art Nouveau elegance and modern architecture springing up within reach of the river. A few years ago you’d be hard pressed to � nd a place to eat or grab a co¬ ee. Now the options for gourmet exploration are many.

Where the port once used to be, Karlín now shows its futuristic face. The extensive River City project has remarkable o ̄ ce buildings, designed by American, French and Danish architects. You pass buildings bearing the names of the world’s major rivers – Danube House, Amazon Court and Nile House – to arrive at ‘Port 18600’, named a° er the local zip code. This charming spot is the work of a group of locals who wanted to turn a neglected Vltava waterside into a place that entices you to relax, socialize and enjoy some culture. Here, you can play volleyball, the kids can enjoy themselves on a submarine-shaped climbing frame, there’s a seasonal bar, and for 100 crowns you can rent your own barbecue grill.

Changes are also in store for the Negrelli viaduct, which forms the imaginary border between Karlín and the New Town. This railway bridge � rst enabled trains to cross the Vltava River in 1850 and with its 1110 metres was the longest bridge in Europe until the early 20th century. Nowadays it hosts pop-up bistros and the occasional concert; by next year, the bridge arches should be � rmly occupied by cafe proprietors, gallerists, and sellers of delicacies or design. Nearby, Karlínské Square with its Church of Sts. Cyril and

Methodius is the site of Saturday farmers’ markets o¬ ering seasonal fruit, vegetables, homemade pastries, cheese, and cold cuts. The loveliest among Karlín squares is a couple blocks away: nearby Lyčkovo Square with its park and stately school building.

From Rags to Riches

Fans of industrial architecture mustn’t miss Pernerova street, once the site of the engineering conglomerate ČKD. These days you’ll � nd Forum Karlín here, one of the best concert halls in the city; a popular restaurant/bakery operates in the same complex. Once the birthplace of steam engine boilers, the complex received its current look courtesy of the famed Catalan architect Ricardo Bo� ll. Just as good is the refurbishment of the adjacent boiler and machine room with its unmissable 150-foot chimney. We suggest you round o¬ your visit to Karlín with a peek at the majestic panorama of the city from the top of Vítkov Hill, or, better still, from the roo° op of the local Memorial (see next article). The shortest way there is through the Hill itself – via the pedestrian Žižkov tunnel, which connects Karlín to the neighbouring district of Žižkov.

the

AUTUMN2016

I think it was Professor Parkinson who expressed the benevolent notion that “every change is for the worse.” I do hope that this does not apply to

our new publication.

In this new format, our coverage of Prague has expanded to cover interesting facts and places

not every visitor sees. We hope to describe these sites or events su� ciently well to arouse curiosity and interest. We want to take you to the hidden,

forgotten or seldom-seen places and give you tips for your stay in our capital city. Of course, all this is accompanied by an overview of the most

important cultural, sporting and social events for the upcoming period.

Wishing you lots of autumn colour and a lovely stay in Prague,

AUTUMN HOLIDAYSAutumn is a time when several holidays are celebrated in the Czech Republic. On these days, monuments and attractions are open to the public as usual; some government buildings hold special hours for public viewing (see www.prague.eu for details), while banks and smaller shops are closed. You might encounter public gatherings, ceremonies and possibly peaceful demonstrations.

28 September – Czech Statehood Day / St. Wenceslas DayThis holiday of fairly recent vintage comemmorates the death of Prince Wenceslas I of the Přemyslid dynasty, who was murdered by his brother Boleslav on 28 September AD 935. Despite his short rule, Wenceslas managed to spread Christianity throughout the early Czech state; his martyr’s death made him a venerated � gure with the aura of protector and patron of the Czech Lands. His equestrian statue presides over Wenceslas Square.

28 October – Foundation of the Independent Czechoslovak State (1918)The independent Czechoslovak state was declared on 28 October 1918 as one of the successor states to the disintegrated Austro-Hungarian monarchy. Independent Czechoslovakia wouldn’t have been possible without the e¬ orts of T.G. Masaryk, a progressive Czech thinker and scholar who became the new Republic’s � rst President. The � rst Czechoslovakia (1918-1938) was a democratic state with well-developed industry and sophisticated cultural output ranging from architecture to � lm to visual art; its existence was cut short by the Nazi occupation.Czechoslovakia split peacefully into the Czech and Slovak Republics in 1993. 17 November - Struggle for Liberty and Democracy DayThere are two historical events associated with this holiday. The � rst took place in 1939; that autumn, the Czech universities were closed by the Nazis, who proceeded to execute several student leaders. The second event occurred in 1989; on this date, a peaceful student demonstration in then-Communist Prague was brutally suppressed, triggering events that came to be known as the Velvet Revolution and that culminated in the fall of the Communist regime in Czechoslovakia. The most prominent personality of these dramatic weeks was Czech dissident and playwright Václav Havel, who went on to become President of the restored democratic Czechoslovakia and, later, the Czech Republic.

DEAR READERS OF OUR NEW QUARTERLY MAGAZINE,

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RECOMMENDED BUSINESSES

Nora DolanskáCEO, Prague City Tourism

www.prague.eu

Prague Loves WinePrague is very proud of its excellent beer, but did you know that its wine scene has been booming of late? A new guidebook, titled Wine in Prague and published by Prague City Tourism, provides visiting wine lovers with tips for exploring the city’s wine bars and restaurants, explains how to read Czech wine labels, and recommends local varieties to seek out. The guide also provides a bit of context for Prague’s centuries-old history of winemaking; pick it up for free at any Prague City Tourism visitor centre.

Autumn is the perfect season to immerse yourself in local wine culture thanks to various vintage festivals that are typically held near one of Prague’s vineyards (see reverse or www.prague.eu for listings). Early autumn is also your only chance to try burčák [boor-chalk], a popular drink that’s only available for a few short weeks. Not yet a true wine, burčák is partially fermented grape juice, sparkling, sweet and jolly. November 11 is the date when St. Martin’s Wine, svatomartinské víno, appears on the market; this revived tradition can be best described as a Central European version of Beaujolais Nouveau. Since the Middle Ages, November 11 has been the date when the year’s young wine was sampled for the � rst time. As it concluded the harvest season, the day was always associated with much feasting and revelry. If you are in town, you owe it to yourself to try a St. Martin’s menu with roast goose, potato pancakes and, naturally, some young wine.

Taste of the Seasonf ever there were a perfect season for discovering Czech cuisine, it would be autumn. There is nothing wrong with summer salads, of course, but the

crisper air and shorter days make one crave the kind of hearty fare that Czech cooking excels at: game meats with creamy sauces, juicy, tangy stewed cabbage, mushrooms (Czechs delight in mushroom hunting and are expert at many di¬ erent mushroom preparations), and sweet plum and apple pastries.

The season’s bounty can be savoured at many restaurants, but Prague’s farmers‘ markets are the best place to start. Typically held on Saturday mornings (an early arrival is essential to avoid lines), they o¬ er much more than local produce and flowers. Indeed, most people frequent them to eat and socialize as much as to shop. The markets’ food o¬ erings tend to be high-quality and vary from expertly prepared co¬ ee to burgers, artisan hot dogs, and grilled cheese sandwiches, to beer, wine, and ever more popular local apple cider, to sweets and crepes. (We especially recommend makovec, a sponge cake made with poppyseeds, a favorite Central European ingredient.)

There are many farmers‘ markets to choose from in Prague; the most popular ones are held in the following locations.

• Náplavka – the scenic riverside promenade on the right bank of the Vltava south of Jiráskův Bridge. Bonus: boats, swans, Castle views, and proximity to Vyšehrad.

• Náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad Square – a stone’s throw from the city centre. Here the markets are held Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, plus Saturday mornings. Bonus: proximity to the TV tower with spectacular views, plus the pretty neighbourhood is well worth exploring.

• „Kulaťák“ (Vítězné náměstí/Square in Prague 6 - Dejvice) – the oldest farmers’ market in Prague is located just outside the Dejvická metro stop. Bonus: In addition to Czech producers, there’s always a goodselection of imported delicacies from Italy and elsewhere.

Interested in exploring Prague’s culinary scene with local ex-perts? Then look no further than Taste of Prague and Eating Prague, two companies that provide outstanding food and beer tours to individuals and small groups; � nd them at www. tasteofprague.com and www.eatingpraguetours.com.

Praguepure emotion

Douanier Rousseau: Painter’s Paradise Lost 16 September 2016 – 15 January 2017 / Kinský Palace – National Gallery in Prague / Old Town Square 12, Prague 1 – Old TownAn exhibition in cooperation with the Parisian Musée d’Orsay. The curators place Rousseau in the context of other artists, trying to trace the stimuli associated with his blend of the archaic, classical and individualistic realism. A selection from the Paris exhibition will be complemented by works by Czech artists such as Otto Gutfreund, Jan Zrzavý or Toyen, showing the artist’s local impact.

Sculpture Lineto 30 September / various venuesAn open-air sculpture fair in its second season. Statues and art objects, the leading domestic and international artists, installed in the open in Prague’s city streets.

This calendar lists only a selection of events taking place in Prague from September through November 2016; for dozens of others see our website www.prague.eu. There you will � nd more detailed information about event programmes, tickets, opening times, etc. The information below is current as of 20 August 2016.

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

ART, ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN

CLASSICAL MUSIC OTHER EVENTS

POP, ROCK AND JAZZ

THEATRE, BALLET AND MODERN CIRCUS

GASTRONOMIC EVENTS AND FESTIVALSEmperor Charles IV 1316-2016to 25 September / Wallenstein Riding Hall – National Gallery in Prague / Valdštejnská 3, Prague 1 – Lesser TownThis Bavarian-Czech exhibition is among the most signi� cant projects held to mark the 700th anniversary of the birth of Holy Roman Emperor and Czech King Charles IV. An exhibition with an extraordinary selection of cultural and artistic mementos of Charles’ time presents the monarch as an exceptional personage of European political and cultural history.

7+1 Masters of Czech Glassto 28 September / Museum Kampa / U Sovových mlýnů 2, Prague 1 – Lesser TownAn exhibition of eight Masters of Czech Glass builds on the landmark exhibition project of 1983 held in the American Cra° Museum in New York. Back then, Czech Glass was represented by Stanislav Libenský, Jaroslava Brychtová, René Roubíček, Věra Lišková, Jiří Harcuba, Václav Cigler and Vladimír Kopecký; this phenomenally successful show made a real name for Czech artistic glass (not only in the US).

Retro 1970-80sto 16 October / Galerie Tančící dům / Jiráskovo Square 6, Prague 2 – New TownThe Dancing House Gallery in the iconic building by Frank Gehry and Vlado Milunić takes us back for four months to the 1970s and 80s era in Czechoslovakia. The best of that era is presented with true to life installations of prefab apartments including appliances and home furnishings with everyday design items. The exhibition goes on to focus on lifestyle, fashion, interests and leisure activities.

Retroto 30 April 2017 / National Museum new building / Vinohradská 1, Prague 1 – New TownRetro, once again. This exhibition focuses on toys, facilities, household equipment, but primarily on bygone fashion. Dozens of vintage dresses and fashion accessories are on display, putting current fashion trends into interesting perspectives.

Bořek Šípek: Glass6 September – 16 October / Portheimka Gallery / Štefánikova street 12, Prague 5 – SmíchovThe travelling exhibition by brothers Dalibor and Milan Šípek

pays tribute to the recently deceased artist Bořek Šípek, whose distinctive design touch was particularly notable in showpiece glass. You can see to what extent his sons have taken up his mantle in the cosy Portheimka summer house venue.

Jiří Anderle – Cabinet of Curiosities15 September 2016 – 15 January 2017 / Municipal House Náměstí Republiky Square 5, Prague 1 – Old TownA retrospective exhibition of the contemporary Czech painter and graphic artist presenting his extensive and diverse work including art prints, drawings, paintings and sculptures. Jiří Anderle has made his name at home and abroad largely with his distinctive graphics.

Cranach from All Sides until 22 January 2017 / Sternberg Palace – National Gallery in Prague / Prague Castle 15, Prague 1 – HradčanyAn exhibition of the German Renaissance painter and his circle, presenting not only the works held by the National Gallery in Prague, but also the most interesting � ndings of research done by specialists from the Cranach Digital Archive in Düsseldorf. The range of Prague works linked with Cranach is extremely diverse and includes popular scenes, including The Old Fool, Christ and the Adulteress, and Original Sin.

The autumn will delight your senses, whether at the National Gallery or at farmers’ markets.

“Dyzajn Market Podzim” / Autumn design market24-25 September / National Theatre Piazzetta / Národní 2, Prague 1 – New TownA sales exhibition of original creations by Czech designers, taking place on the National Theatre Piazzetta. Featuring items of jewellery, fashion, accessories, but also cultural performances, music, good food and a relaxed atmosphere.

Architecture Week – festival of contemporary architecture and urbanism26 September – 9 October / Mánes Exhibition Hall and other venues / Masarykovo nábřeží 1, Prague 1 – New TownThis year’s theme – “the organic city” – will present the most interesting architectural, transport and urban development projects from home and abroad. The Festival is accompanied by an exhibition, lectures, workshops, architecture walks, talks and � lm screenings.

Jaroslav Horejc (1886-1983)28 September – 8 January 2017 / The House at the Stone Bell / Old Town Square 13, Prague 1 – Old TownJaroslav Horejc is one of the most remarkable personae of Czech 20th century sculpture, yet his works are seldom shown. This past debt is now repaid by the Prague City Gallery with the largest exhibition of this artist to date.

Three Centuries of American Prints from the National Gallery of Art in Washington5 October 2016 – 8 January 2017 / Veletržní palác – National Gallery in Prague / Dukelských hrdinů 47, Prague 7 – HolešoviceAn exhibition brought to Prague from the esteemed Washington National Gallery of Art this autumn, showing works by world-renowned artists, from the colonial era to the 20th century. Among those represented are James McNeill Whistler, Mary Cassatt, Winslow Homer, Roy Lichtenstein, Andy Warhol, and Jackson Pollock.

Designblok 2016 / Prague Design and Fashion Week 27-31 October / Prague Exhibition Grounds – Holešovice / Výstaviště 67, Prague 7 – HolešoviceThe design event of the year, a select showcase of international contemporary furniture and industrial design, home accessories, lighting, fashion and jewellery. As part of the � ve-day event there will be fashion shows, featuring collection by renowned Czech and international designers.

Czech Design Week7-13 November / Kafka’s House / Franz Kafka Square 3, Prague 1 – Old TownThe independent design showcase in its second season. Czech Design Week presents the works of Czech and international designers, highlighting a realistic and personal approach. The show aims to present quality Czech design in a wider context.

Last year in Marienbad8 September – 27 November / Rudol ̈num Gallery / Alšovo nábřeží 12, Prague 1 – Old TownThe exhibition was created and � rst shown in the Kunsthalle Bremen, a collection of works of art from the early 20th century to the present, on the aesthetics of � lm and the 1960s New Wave.

From London to the Czech Avant-Gardeto 23 October / Black Swan Art & Event Gallery / Na Poříčí 25, Prague 1 – New TownPaul Harvey, a leading British stucco artist as well as punk musician, showcasing a collection of works inspired by the Czech avant-garde of the 1920s and 30s.

Vertigo10 September, 10 and 11 October / New Stage of the National Theatre / Národní 4, Prague 1 – New TownNewly added to the National Theatre Ballet repertoire, a showcase of essential works by three contemporary European dance theatre artists – the Moldavian Radu Poklitaru, the Italian Mauro Bigonzetti and the Swede Alexander Ekman. These three sharply contrasting pieces create a magical combination of lyricism, nostalgia, humour and crazy absurdity.

Les Ballets Bubeníček: Orpheus18 and 25 September / Vinohrady Theatre / náměstí Míru 7, Prague 2 – VinohradyThe brothers Jiří and Otto Bubeníček belong among internationally renowned dancers; to mark the end of their career they will perform in “Orpheus,” stylistically transgressing the boundaries of dance, physical movement, words and music.

Cirk La Putyka: Roots 16, 18, 22 and 23 October / Jatka 78 / Bubenské nábřeží 13, Prague 7 – HolešoviceA non-traditional multifunctional venue on the site of the former slaughterhouse in Holešovice market, now hosting contemporary and experimental art. “Roots,” by the renowned Czech New Circus ensemble Cirk La Putyka, tells the poetic and harsh history of circus artistry.

Carl Or¹ : The Wise Girl / The Moon20 October – première, 21 October, 1 and 3 November / National Theatre / Národní 2, Prague 1 – New TownThese one act operas of Carl Or¬ (1895-1982), the famous author of the world famous Carmina Burana cantata, recount in lively and epic folk-theatre format two famous Grimm’s fairy tales: that of ‘Clever Elsie’ the smart country-girl who gets the King himself to fall for her, and that of the Moon, which foolish folk steal from each other.

The Little Mermaid10 November – première, 11, 13 and 17 November / Estates Theatre / Železná Street, Prague 1 – Old Town‘Far out in the ocean on the very bottom where no anchor nor human eye could reach the sea inhabitants dwell. The dolphins, mermaids, the Sea King, his old mother and his daughter, the Little Mermaid …’; The famous fairy tale by H. Ch. Andersen, in a world première of a new ballet set to music by the Czech composer Zbyněk Matějů.

St Petersburg Festival Ballet: Giselle & Swan Lake20 November / Hybernia Theatre / Náměstí Republiky Square 4, Prague 1 – New TownThe internationally acclaimed ballet troupe comes to Prague with two classical ballet performances – the romantic ballet Giselle by A. Ch. Adam, and Swan Lake by P. I. Tchaikovsky. The show combines classic elegance, a fresh concept, perfect technique and gorgeous costumes and décor.

Botanical Garden vintage10 and 11 September / Prague Botanical Garden / Trojská 196, Prague 7 – TrojaThe Botanical Garden wine harvest in Troja is part of Prague’s Indian summer. Come to the St Klara vineyards, to taste the wine from Czech and Moravian wine makers.

Vinohrady vintage16-17 September / Jiřího z Poděbrad Square / Prague 2 – VinohradyCzech and Moravian wines yours for the tasting at Jiřího z Poděbrad Square, outside the Church of the Sacred Heart.

Grébovka vintage23 and 24 September / Havlíčkovy sady (Grébovka) / Prague 2 – VinohradyThe highly popular vintage festival at Grébovka o¬ ers dozens of stalls with wine, fresh young wines, high-quality food and choice handicra° items. A kids’ programme is included.

Prague Co¹ ee Festival22-23 October / Kafka’s House / Franz Kafka Square 3, Prague 1 – Old TownFollow the aroma of co¬ ee right up to Kafka’s house near the Old Town Square. You can taste samples from a range of roast houses or learn the art of preparing great co¬ ee at home, from top baristas.

St. Martin’s goose and wine11 November / restaurants all over the cityTaste the young wine and the delicacy that goes with it – roast goose with cabbage and potato pancakes (“lokše”). Read more about this tradition overleaf.

St. Martin’s wine and St. Martin’s goose12 November / farmers’ market at the Náplavka waterfront / Rašínovo nábřeží, Prague 2 – New TownA tasting of wines and the feast celebration of St Martin on the popular waterfront.

The Dvořák Prague Festival5-24 September / Rudol ̈num and other venues / Alšovo embankment 12, Prague 1 – Old TownThe Dvořák Prague festival is a relative newcomer, yet already alongside the Prague Spring among the most visited music festivals in the Czech Republic. Its main idea is to promote Czech music by reference to the works of Antonín Dvořák, his contemporaries and pupils.

The Gala opening concert is performed by the renowned Staatskapelle Dresden, conducted by Christian Thielemann. In addition to the Czech Philharmonic, the Rudol� num will host the London Symphony Orchestra and the Orchestra dell’Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, with soloists like the phenomenal violinist Gidon Kremer or the pianist Boris Berezovsky, among others.

Antonín Dvořák (1841-1904) is the preeminent Czech composer. The power of his melodic inventiveness was breath-taking even to his contemporaries – as evi-denced by Brahms’ dictum that ‘Dvořák’s incidental themeswould do me for a main theme.’ Dvořák gained renownthrough his symphoniesand major choral-instru-mental works, though healso composed chambermusic and opera, of whichRusalka is the best known.Dvořák’s most popularworks include his Sym-phony No. 9 “From theNew World”, inspired by hisstay in the United States. You can stop by his graveat the Vyšehrad cemetery.

Czech Philharmonic Orchestra – Joshua Bell, Bernarda Fink – Opening concert of the 121st season29 and 30 September / Rudol ̈num / Alšovo embankment 12, Prague 1 – Old TownCzech Philharmonic launches its 121st concert season with a performance of Tchaikovsky’s Violin Concerto, with Joshua Bell, and Mahler’s Song of the Earth with musical soloists Bernarda Fink and Pavel Černoch, under the baton of chief conductor Jiří Bělohlávek.

Schola Gregoriana Pragensis in honour of Charles IV1 November / The Church of Sts. Simon and Jude / Dušní street, Prague 1 – Old TownA concert by this renowned choir is a rare opportunity to hear live chants and secular music from the period of the high Gothic period of the 14 century, i.e. the time of Emperor and King Charles IV.

The Rudolf Firkušný Piano Festival19-26 November / Rudol ̈num / Alšovo embankment 12, Prague 1 – Old TownThis festival in honour of the world-renowned Czech pianist Rudolf Firkušný (1912–1994), is entirely devoted to piano music. Four concerts will feature the piano virtuosi Garrick Ohlsson, Martin Kasík, Olga Scheps and Sir András Schi¬ .

Bryn Terfel22 November / Municipal House / Republic Square 5, Prague 1 – Old TownBryn Terfel is well established and renowned operatic star with unmissable charisma, who never fails to make Prague his own. This November he will be o¬ ering operatic arias from his most famous roles.

‘The Christian Lindberg Phenomenon’28 November / Rudol ̈num / Alšovo embankment 12, Prague 1 – Old TownThe Swedish phenomenon Christian Lindberg will appear in Prague in his triple role – as a trombonist, whose virtuosity has inspired more than 300 new works for the trombone, as a conductor interpreting the Scandinavian classics and as an original composer.

Coronation festivities 3 and 4 September / Prague Castle, Vyšehrad Castle, Old Town Square and other venuesA re-enactment of the coronation of Charles IV as Czech King promises a unique experience: the evening torchlight parade, the coronation procession from Prague Castle to Old Town Square, knightly jousts, a courtly feast, and a medieval market fair. Prague is paying tribute to Charles IV to mark his 700th birthday.

Ladronkafest10 September / Ladronka / Prague 6 – BřevnovThe largest festival of leisure activities in Central Europe, which brings together sport and movement, music, art, adrenaline and fun. Admission to all the events is free of charge.

‘4+4 Days in Motion’ Festival30 September – 8 October / various venuesThis international festival of contemporary art, whose aim is to present current innovative theatre projects, will bring a flood of ‘cultural adrenaline’ to Prague – provocative and challenging cross-genre events, from dance and theatre exhibitions, audio-visual projects to discussion and guided walks.

Prague Crossroads Festival4-9 October / New Stage of the National Theatre / Národní 4, Prague 1 – New TownMarking the posthumous 80th birthday of Václav Havel comes a National Theatre drama festival called: ‘Art & Politics, Politics & Art’. The personality, thoughts and attitudes of the former President and man of letters, coming to life on the stage once again.

“Mezipatra” / Mezzanines3-10 November / Lucerna and Světozor cinemas and other venues A specialized competitive � lm festival screening � lms on gay, lesbian, bisexual, transgender and queer issues.

Kavárny naživo / Live Cafés30 September – 28 October / selected cafés in PragueDuring the one month, this festival will bring to cafés across Prague a variety of concerts, theatrical performances, and other art projects.

King Crimson14 and 15 September / Forum Karlín / Pernerova 51, Prague 8– KarlínThe return of a legend. The current seven strong dynamic group with its three drummer rhythm section was initiated two years ago by the guitarist, founder and perennial member of the King Crimson band – Robert Fripp.

Paul Simon17 October 17 / O2 arena / Českomoravská 17, Prague 9 – LibeňStarting his European tour of the new album, “Stranger to Stranger”, the famed US singer-songwriter Paul Simon at Prague’s O2 arena.

The Cure22 October / O2 arena / Českomoravská 17, Prague 9 – LibeňRobert Smith & Co. continuing the world tour that critics have hailed as “epic”, featuring setlists over 30 numbers long.

Signal – a festival of light 13-16 October / downtown Prague, public spacesOctober brings with it the popular festival of lights. Light projection and images cast on historical and modern buildings or public spaces make for a dazzling interplay of creativity, latest technology and public space – but above all, for a great spectacle.

The Signal festival � rst lit up Prague in 2013 and at once became a massive hit. It never shies away from bringing something new – whether a video mapping projection onto the façade of Prague’s landmarks, special site-speci� c projects, tailored to Prague’s nooks, or interactive installations where every visitor becomes a co-author. The Signal festival is unique among Czech cultural events and festivals of light on an international scale.

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Selena Gomez24 October / O2 arena / Českomoravská 17, Prague 9 – LibeňThe US singer and actress performing for the � rst time in the CR. The multi-platinum recording artist presents her last album, called “Revival”.

Justin Bieber12 November / O2 arena / Českomoravská 17, Prague 9 – LibeňGlobal superstar Justin Bieber comes to Prague for the � rst time as part of his Purpose World Tour to promote his new album.

Guillaume Perret & The Electric Epic26 November / Akropolis / Kubelíkova 27, Prague 3 – ŽižkovComposer and saxophonist Guillaume Perret brings an explosive mix of modern jazz, avant-garde electronics, progressive rock, folk, ethno jazz and hardcore.

Elton John26 November / O2 arena / Českomoravská 17, Prague 9 – LibeňThe phenomenal English singer and songwriter playing and singing the greatest hits of his illustrious career.