the scaffie – by ole helgerson and elizabeth wade-brown

The Scaffie – by Ole Helgerson and Elizabeth Wade-Brown

The Scaffie

A compendium from past and present Scaffie sailors

By Ole Helgerson, Scaffie “Katy” and Elizabeth Wade-Brown, former Scaffie “Honeysuckle Rose,”

Introduction

“The Scaffie is an impressively competent, seaworthy boat, light and easy to handle, quick and easy to rig, launch

and recover (A. Duthie “Small is beautiful...” DA Articles). It’s simplicity makes it amenable to modification in

meeting owner-specific goals and in being reasonably easy to repair. Most modifications and repairs that have

been undertaken are relatively minor, however, some of the hull and rigging work that has been accomplished is of

a more extensive nature.

Through the years, Scaffie hulls have kept the same outer shape. Likewise, many fittings are of the same or similar

design with changes through the years. Some early Scaffies may not have bow eyes for towing and winching. Some

more recent Scaffies have across-the-cockpit floor boards instead of a kingplank (central floorboard). Dutch Scaffie

sailors have divided the Scaffie models into four categories (M. Maartens, personal communication): The Mk1

covers the first models which used pvc gunwhales and a full grp (heavy) rudder. The Mk2 utilized a hollow rudder

to reduce weight aft as well as saving on glass and resin costs. On the MK3, the gunwhales are laminated teak.

Lastly, the Mk4 series carries a rudder of marine plywood and foam buoyancy.

A key feature, buoyancy, does vary by year. Later Drascombe Scaffies (1996 and afterwards) contained foam

buoyancy. When Scaffie production ceased in 1998, also the year when the European Union introduced new

“Recreational Craft Directives and Regulations” relating to watercraft safety (revised 2004).

Scaffies produced post-1998, have been marketed as Devon Scaffies. While maintaining the original external hull

design and layout, the Devon craft meet EU regulations requiring more buoyancy and freeboard (hull out of water)

when swamped. In doing so, the builder increased the volume of buoyant material contained within the side tanks

and bow and stern compartments. The latter further restricted the lazarette’s inbuilt storage space. To further

identify the two periods of production, perhaps nearly 600 Drascombe Scaffies built may have a builder’s plaque

(“built in Totnes”) somewhere on the hull, a production number stamped or burned into the forward fairlead,

stemhead or engine bracket or possibly a number on the sail applied by their owners but are often anonymous.

Though a mustard coloured hull is a sure indication of an early Scaffie, Scaffies built in 1998 and later have white

hulls. Devon Scaffie hulls should have a “CE” plaque indicating maximum permissible crew number/gross weight

for the design as well as the build date and production number stamped into the hull. Among other differences,

the two builds differ in rudder and tiller design and flooring. The older boats use a grp rudder topped with an

aluminium casting holding a slender, straight wooden tiller. The newer boats use a wooden rudder with a sturdy

curved tiller. Their slatted cross-cockpit floorboards provide more comfort for overnighting as well as keeping feet

drier from any water that has come on board. In considering whether to implement any of the modifications or


repairs listed here for your Scaffie, experience strongly suggests that it is prudent to survey information from

sources such as the DA website, the boat’s builders and equipment vendors, noting any downsides or caveats, and

then to proceed carefully. A good example is that of placing two-part expanding polyurethane foam within the

side tanks of Scaffies for buoyancy as described in a subsequent section.

THE HULL - Minor hull changes

Bow eye. While later Scaffies have a bow eye as standard this was lacking in early models (M. Maartens, personal

communication). When installing a bow eye, factors to consider can include; positioning the eye to low enough

keep the bow up if towed on the water, keeping the eye high enough above water to minimize leakage problems

through the hull and keeping the winch strap fairly parallel with the trailer spine while winching onto the trailer.

Hopefully, the height of the trailer winch is adjustable in meeting this last goal. Two bow eye locations are

illustrated. One is just below the bottom of the sheer strakes or, top of the second strake, about 9 inches from

stemhead base to center of eye (image courtesy of E. Wade-Brown). Another is about 5 inches lower, near the

bottom of the strakes below the sheer strakes (for image, see “Boat cover.”). Along with applying suitable sealer,

securely fitting a hardwood block or other sturdy backing inside the bow tank is a good idea. (Image Michel

Maartens)


Stern fittings. Scaffie owners have variously added fairleads, horncleats and a rowlock (oarlock) to handle line

from the stern. The rowlock also allows an oar or paddle to be used as a yuloh in providing slow speed, precise

maneuvering. A stronger attachment than four stainless screws into the gunwale would likely be warranted,

especially if it were to be used frequently or to guide a stern anchor line under adverse conditions. The blue Argyle

sock seen over the masthead keeps the halyard in place during storage while honouring the boat’s heritage. (image

courtesy O. Helgerson)

Running lights. On Scaffie “Katy,” a bungee loop secures the water proof bow light (LED, AAA batteries) to the

bronze stemhead fitting. The stern light clamps to the hull over the gunwale. The 360 degree white light for the

masthead illumination is hoisted by a peak halyard. (images courtesy O. Helgerson)


Lazarette storage and bung spanner. A small cleat (~5mm ABS acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) and an attachment

line with toggle on a bungee (shock cord), was added to ensure that the hatch cover remains on-board on this

Scaffie. Below which, a removable internal deck (cedar fence boards) rests on cedar blocking epoxied to the hull’s

inner sides. This creates useful storage space by preventing items from disappearing into the bilge. Removing this

small deck accesses the bilge and bung spanner; square aluminum tubing epoxied into plywood (images courtesy

O. Helgerson). On Older Scaffies, the screws that hold the bunghole fitting in place may need replacing (images


Tiller. Three areas of attention have proven useful; a tiller extension, a way of avoiding tiller “flop” by either

centering the tiller or holding it reasonably securely at some fixed position and, lastly, providing clearance over

outboard motors. Tiller extensions, especially extendable models, are especially useful in getting crew weight

forward when solo sailing which makes for better trim and easier tacking. Simple tiller extensions can be created

relatively easily, for example, from a re-purposed Nordic ski pole.

A self-centering tiller can simplify life afloat whether sailing, rowing or under engine power. Solutions include

connecting the tiller’s base with shock cord to a cleat or pad eye centred on the lazarette’s deck. Tying the tiller

directly to the centre of the horse as a quick fix when rowing or using the outboard has was suggested by the late

Stewart Brown (E. Wade-Brown personal communication). The tiller can also be centered between the two horns

with a length of line run through a clutch and tensioned by shock cord. Other types of tiller locks or clutches have

also been devised (see DAN83 Jim Andrews). (images courtesy O. Helgerson)


On the older style tillers, if more clearance over the engine cover is needed, it might be achieved by shaving a mm

or so from the tapered end that fits inside of cast fitting. Doing so elevates the tiller handle enough for clearing a

Honda 2. More commonly, the older style straight tiller is replaced with a curved unit. One curved tiller used

repurposed wood from a park bench (J. Easton DA Forum)(images courtesy O. Helgerson and L.Davidson)

Boarding strops. As with a safety line (tether), these seem like a very good thing to have when sailing solo. The

yellow commercial model in the image attaches to the stainless steel fitting in the center of the Scaffie’s king

plank. It supported successful re-boarding when tested with the boat tied between two legs of a dock. The

additional leverage provided by a handhold inside the boat on the attachment line greatly helped. Re-boarding

with the DIY model, a nylon strop attached to the boat fenders, succeeded with the boat on the trailer but was not

successful on the water when the boat was free to roll. This may have been from lack of technique, practice or

absence of an interior handhold. This experience and discussion on the DA Forum indicates that re-boarding

success can range from being relatively easy to difficult or perhaps impossible, depending on equipment and boat.

Practice is recommended (images courtesy O. Helgerson).


Fenders. Adequately protecting the rounded hull has been somewhat problematic. Two Scaffie owners have

utilized a three fender system; two hanging vertically at about the rowlocks and one in the middle, suspended

either horizontally or vertically (For image, see “Boarding strops”). Another approach entails stringing a “chain” of

small fenders on either side of the boat attached to the hull just below the gunwale ensuring permanent

protection. (image courtesy E. Wdae-Brown)

Anchoring the anchor. One method secures the anchor in a crate under the forward thwart. A second approach

fits a Bruce anchor over the bow and a third solution entails hinging the for’ard end of the floorboard and storing a

folding grapnel anchor and chain in the bilge beneath a hinged floorboard at the foot of the mast (S. Ellis 2004

Forum). (image courtesy O. Helgerson)


Major hull changes

Buoyancy. The original Scaffie buoyancy consisted of plastic bags holding chunks of polystyrene foam that were

inserted into the side tanks (S. Ellis 2003 Forum). The plastic bags tended to deteriorate, leaving buoyancy

dependent on scattered foam pieces; an issue also found with other earlier models (N. Allsopp 2004 Forum). One

swamped Scaffie, with original buoyancy, was unable to be bailed on the water and luckily was able to be towed to

shore for emptying (A. Mitchell 2004 Forum). As replacement, empty plastic bottles , Crewsaver (dingy) buoyancy

bags and Celotex insulation board have been used as has filling the side tanks with 2-part expanding polyurethane

foam. A problem observed with using empty plastic milk containers was failure of the lids on warm days from

increased internal air pressure. Carbonated beverage bottles and lids might withstand changes in air pressure

better than milk bottles. If using buoyancy bags, ensure that pointed fasteners which could puncture the bags,

such as screws holding the hatch plates, are either trimmed or covered with protective material. The Drascombe

Forum contains much useful discussion on retrofitting buoyancy into older boats. Things to think about include

placing buoyancy to keep to the builder’s goals and current safety standards in terms of righting the boat and

floating it in a desirable manner.

Based on reports from intentional and unintentional on-the-water testing, installing two-part foam in the Scaffie’s

side tanks would seem to approach current standards (A. Duthie “Small is beautiful…” DA Articles). Buoyancy from

“DIY” foam (filling the side tanks and sealing the bow compartment) self-righted Scaffie “Katy” after being knocked

sideways (strong wind over flat water, luckily near the slip) when her skipper attempted an overpowered jibe.

Foam installations done “DIY” seem to have utilized three, perhaps four, round access ports on either the upper

(horizontal) or side (vertical) surfaces of each side tank for pouring the mixed foam reagents. For Scaffie “Katy,”

three 4.5-inch holes (hatch plate sized) were cut into the upper surfaces of the port and starboard side tanks.

Staying within the manufacturer’s recommended temperature window is essential when using 2-part polyurethane

foam. If the mix is too cold, the foam will not expand as calculated to fill the tanks, but it will eventually harden

and may be prone to water absorption. If the reagents are too warm, the foam may not be dense enough

(structurally weaker), contain larger voids and may also absorb water. For Scaffie “Katy,” foam was apparently

successfully installed when air and hull temperatures were around 10C; below the recommended minimum. What

worked in this situation was acclimating the pint reagent containers at the upper temperature limit for several

days in a heated bathroom (~28C). For transport and installation, the containers were held in an insulated picnic

chest (along with a couple of warmed bricks) until removal for mixing and pouring. Hardened foam excavated for

storage ports indicated a uniform, fine porosity.

Various boat positions have been recommended for pouring mixed reagents. For the stern and amidships pours,

Scaffie “Katy” was on the trailer with its tongue elevated as high as possible (work area, eight foot ceiling) and

then lowered to the floor for pouring into the fore openings. The vendor recommended waiting about 5 minutes


between pours to allow the previous pour to strengthen as indicated by a tacky surface. Full cavity occupancy was

indicated by foam expanding against the temporary barriers on the stern and midship ports (wax paper, plywood

square and brick). From a port intentionally left uncovered, the foam extruded outward a few centimeters forming

a crumpet shape.

Both forward pours flowed toward the bow and into the keel enough to seal the bow tank while leaving handy

open storage volumes behind the factory side hatch plates. Foam ingress into the keel was mostly blocked by an

unobserved boat fender that had been crammed into the space between the keel and bottom of the forward

bulkhead. The supervising foam installer had not removed the king plank before pouring to see what might have

been there. A small amount of foam expanded onto the forward interior hull requiring a bit of clean up. It might

have been much messier if the boat fender had not been in place. Lesson; remove the king plank and block the

opening as needed. Useful tools included safety glasses, vinyl or nitrile gloves, disposable paint mixing sticks and

one gallon tubs (for additional details, see; S. Ellis 2004 Forum, A. Duthie “Small is beautiful” DA web article, O.

Helgerson 2012 Forum).

A downside to foam buoyancy is that it complicates attachment of sailing kit to hull areas filled with foam and may

entrap or absorb water that somehow seeps in through the grp. A damage risk exists from entrapped water

expanding when frozen. Reports indicate, however, that as with heeding the temperature window, when the

reagents are carefully measured, mixed and applied according to the manufacturer’s instructions, the resulting

foam is closed cell, of the correct density, and absorbs practically no water (less than 1 percent v/v). See

https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/polyurethane-foam-water-absorption.35963/page-2. Those wanting the

foam upgrade but not wishing to attempt it themselves, may contact a professional a builder.

Hatch plates and storage ports. On perhaps three foam installations, additional storage space was created by

excavating hardened foam (a small serrated paring knife works well, wear a dust mask, a vacuum cleaner is handy)

and capping the openings with hatch plates. Marking the retaining rings “0” and “1” for the open and locked

positions helps avoid either unlocked or jammed covers. When opened, the plates are secured to the boat by

small lines tied to “U” shaped pieces of copper household wiring epoxied in place. (image courtesy O. Helgerson)


On the older models, the retaining rings of the original two 8’ hatch plates on the forward sides of the side tanks

and the bow cavity’s 4” hatch plate may become fractured. The rings of new side plates on Scaffie “Katy” were

fitted to the curved grp with epoxy fairing compound. To assist any future removal, the new rings were sprayed

with hairspray before being emplaced. Whether that suffices or not remains to be seen. The bow hatch plate was

bedded to its flatter underlying grp with silicon elastomer. For details, see,

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/10/howto/hatch/index.htm).

The search for performance; removing the bilge keels and adding a centre board. The Scaffie surprisingly is

regarded as one of the faster boats of the Drascombe line. However, drag from the bilge keels has been

considered as limiting potential speed and the long central keel brings the boat about in a leisurely manner.

Removing the bilge keels with an angle grinder, fairing the hull with fiberglass and adding a centerboard made of

0.50 inch aluminum plate resulted in increased speed, easier tacking and a steadier boat, though at a loss of

balance when beached. The results were especially marked when a junk rig was added. This modification appears

to have been carried out on two boats (S. Ellis 2004 Forum).

The mast thwart. Three problems may exist; cracking of the wood, thwart movement and uneven bedding of the

thwart against the grp. Wood cracking has been observed on at least three boats. One repair that lasted eight-plus

years was filling the cracks with epoxy resin (M. Boer 2007 Forum). Another suggested solution was stabilizing the

thwart with a U-shaped stainless steel plate screwed into place (S. Ellis 2007). As a general note, splitting in wood

is caused by stresses related to uneven shrinking and swelling induced by large enough drying and wetting cycles.

Thus, protecting the thwart from weathering is a good all-round preventative practice.

Mast thwart movement enlarges the fastener holes and fractures the underlying grp leading to a failure prone

connection. Such failure appears to have occurred in a Scaffie sailed off of Okinawa

(https://thequietripple.com/2015/08/19/golly/). Uneven bedding between the thwart and the grp means that

tightening the fasteners stresses the grp and places a twisting force on the thwart which may cause it to split. To

stabilize movement and counter uneven bedding on Scaffie “Katy,” backing plates were epoxied under the grp and

the thwart was bedded in thixotropic (non-runny) epoxy at its four attachment points. Aluminium (6061, 6 x 37 x

~200mm) was used for backing, although 12mm waterproof ply, e.g. Baltic birch, would have worked just as well.

The backing plates were held in place with removable ¼” bolts until the epoxy hardened.

For bedding the thwart, strips of 2 inch wide plastic packing tape were stuck on the thwart’s underside for easy

release against the epoxy. After applying epoxy blobs (enough to fill the damaged holes and provide a few mm of

elevation), the thwart was carefully emplaced, guided by temporary blocking (attached with double backed tape)

to ensure its correct alignment with index marks penciled on the surrounding grp. After the epoxy had hardened

and tape removed, the thwart was realigned with its index marks, new holes were drilled and fasteners installed.

The results are that the thwart does not move under wind loads, has an exact fit with the grp and can better

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/10/howto/hatch/index.htm

https://thequietripple.com/2015/08/19/golly/


withstand lifting forces from the rigging. Doing it over, bedding each end of the thwart under a full bead of epoxy

perhaps would have been stronger; maybe a project for the summer. (image courtesy O. Helgerson)

Keel ballast. The reference to using water appears to have come about from the original builder wanting ballast

that would be neutral if the boat swamped (D. Elliot 2013 Forum). Forum reports indicate that ballast on the order

of 20 to 50 kg, (cast-to-fit lead ingots, lead filled beverage cans or tubing or a heavy steel pry bar) can aid stability.

Water ballast under a hinged floor board was also suggested as a convenient place for cooling beer (J. Andrews

DAN #83, ‘Jbdavis’ 2003 Forum, A. Mitchell 2003 Forum).

Stem head failure and refitting. As with other models, these seem to have failed on more than one Scaffie.

Although the stem head looks sturdy, it may crack or the stainless steel screws which attach it to the hull may fail.

‘Gunter’ (2018 Forum), illustrates the situation including the underlying structural grp and foam. Replacement can

be a tricky operation. On “HoneysuckleRose,” the new wooden stem head’s base was grooved to match the

underlying grp of the inner and outer hull, then epoxied into place. Installing stainless steel screws should be done

carefully to ensure adequate contact with the underlying grp. The central question is why do stem heads fail? The

answer lies in the mechanical forces that they are subject to. They might include continued jerking on a mooring

line run through a fairlead on the stem head or especially winching onto a trailer using the fairleads as winch line


attachment points.

Mast well repair. The grp supporting the mast foot can show hairline cracking. One solution was cleaning the

cracks with a narrow steel probe followed by working epoxy into the fissures with a small spatula and wiping off

excess. Polyester resin would work as well. With either product, wear protective gloves and safety glasses.

Drilling a hole to allow water to drain into the bilge will help keep the mast foot dry.

Keel bands. For protecting the bilge keels when on drying moorings or when launching and retrieving on rocky

shores, some Scaffie owners have attached stainless steel or bronze keel bands. A problem observed is water

leakage around the fasteners. The best solution seems to be ensuring that the fasteners are suitably bedded,

preferably full length, into a strong, watertight epoxy resin. For water that does ingress into the “mini-bilges,”

wicking through the fastener holes can aid water removal from within. (E. Wade-Brown Forum)

Outboard motors. Enlarging the hull opening has been undertaken on some boats. A suggested safe limit for

enlarging vertically toward the gunwale is leaving a strip of grp about the width of gaffer’s tape. Modifying the

outboard mounting bracket and or its wedges is preferable to enlarging the hull as being more easily reversible. It

is also prudent to inspect the mounting bracket’s attachment bolts for corrosion and replace as necessary. (image

courtesy E. Wade-Brown)

Note that water entering through the outboard motor’s hull opening can be problematic when bailing. Solutions

include a “fence” a few inches tall built around the upper ridge of the outboard well (S. Ellis 2006 Forum) or

coming up with some sort of easily deployable infill for the opening.

Bilge Pumps. These useful devices can be fitted on the lazarrette’s cockpit face either centrally, giving a more

direct entry into the bilge (though this gets in the way of a final sponging mop-up, as on HoneysuckleRose), or to

starboard.

Gunwhale repair. This topic has appeared a few times on the Forum. Scaffie gunwales appear to have been made

out of either wood, pvc or “Tufnol,” an SRBF (synthetic resin bonded fabric). Described by one Scaffie owner as

“tougher than old boots”, Tufnol is flexible, waterproof, resists impact damage and retains fasteners well, although


it can be subject to wearing or chafing from repeated abrasion. For a Scaffie needing replacement gunwales, one

solution was cutting, steaming and then laminating strips of iroko hardwood with epoxy (S. Ellis 2005 Forum).

Bung replacement. Repairs made to bung fittings using galvanically dissimilar fasteners have caused leakage

problems on earlier Scaffies. If failure occurs, the entire assembly may need to be carefully replaced. (image

courtesy E. Wade-Brown)

Scaffie refurbishment. Sometimes opportunity appears to rebuild a neglected boat. A nicely illustrated narrative

of refurbishing a hull is found here (P. Finlay 2015 Forum).

The case of the disappearing rudder. Reports indicate that at least two Scaffie owners have had their rudders

come unshipped while on the water. Although the frequency of occurrence is low, the consequences can be large.

Thus a recommendation is to check the fittings for being secure.


PROPULSION - Oars

While 9-foot oars may be seen as optimal, 8-foot oars can easily propel the Scaffie and take up a bit less storage

space. For additional room when underway, oars can be secured along the port and starboard sides of the Scaffie

by bungees over the handles at the forward rowlocks and over the blades at the stern rowlocks (J. Easton Forum).

Quick release bungees over the blades make for easy access and when rowing and the bungees over the handles

help maintain a consistent effective blade angle with the water. Longer oars, such as the 12 footers seen on

“Hjalmar,” illustrate the Scaffie’s versatility. The Scaffie can also be rowed in tandem by two. (images courtesy O.

Helgerson and M. Maartens)

Outboards

The original builder rates the current Devon Scaffie for outboards of 2 to 3 horsepower. However, the Scaffie was

designed when compact 2-cycle outboard motors were common. The newer and larger 4-cycle motors can create

interference problems with the tiller and the hull opening (see “Enlarging the hull’s motor opening”). The cowling

on a 4-cycle Honda 2 hp (centrifugal clutch drive) is a close fit with the straight style tiller. Hence the introduction


of curved tillers. Depth into the water should also be considered. The long shaft Honda 2’s skeg is just even with

bottom of keel, the short shaft is about even with bottom of hull. When tilted up, the longer Honda’s propellor

drags in the water. A much older, more compact, 1.5 hp air-cooled 2-cyle, fits nicely and pushes Scaffie “Katy” well

but noisily.

RIGGING - Minor rigging changes

Peak halyard (spar catcher). When fitted to “Honeysuckle Rose,” this line kept the sail’s top part (the head) from

dunking into the sea or draping the crew in canvas when lowering sail once the tension had come off at the tack

(bottom corner of the sail closest to the mast). A peak halyard can be easily rigged from two pre-stretched 3mm

lines. The first line, which is called a jackstay, is attached along the upper side of the yard and carries a stainless

steel ring that freely slides up and down the line’s length. The second line serves as the peak halyard, running

between the stainless steel ring, through a block at the masthead and onto a block and cleat located on the aft

surface of the mast foot. For hoisting the sail, first elevate the peak halyard as far as it will travel. The yard will now

be vertical, alongside the mast. Next, hoist both halyards until the peak halyard’s ring reaches the mast head block.

Make the peak halyard fast. Continue raising the yard with the main halyard and make it fast when fully aloft. For

lowering the sail, slacken the main halyard two or three feet until the peak reaches the same height of the mast

head (the yard will again be vertical). Then, lower both halyards together as desired, keeping the gaff vertical for a

harbour furl over lunch or gradually releasing both to the deck to unrig. Securing and releasing the halyard using

the traditional belaying pin can be bothersome. Two work arounds are installing a sheave and cam cleat on the

mast thwart, or similarly leading the halyard downward through the mast thwart to a ring or block near the mast

foot and then running it to a winch on the stern thwart (the thwart having been securely attached to the hull)


Halyard and mainsheet. Securing and releasing the halyard using the traditional belaying pin can be slow and

bothersome. Two work-arounds are installing a sheave and cam cleat on the mast thwart, or similarly leading the

halyard downward through the mast thwart to a ring or block near the mast foot and then running it to a winch on

the stern thwart (the thwart having been securely attached to the side tanks). (images courtesy E. Wade-Brown)

For holding the main sheet, on some Scaffies, a cleat has been added to the tiller. On a small boat, however, this

increases the chances of being tipped over in a gust. A very prudent recommendation is to not use a cleat. One

suggestion in making the mainsheet easier to hold and quick to release is wrapping it around the standard straight

tiller once or twice.

Parrel and an alternative. Most seem satisfied with the factory parrel set up, however, a “belt and braces”

method using parrels and the halyard line running forward on the yard (Goat Island Skiff technique adapted per

“canoeing chapter of “The Dixon Kemp Manual of Seamanship” from about 1870”) keeps the yard and mast

together under all conditions. Combined with the gaff’s protective hitching, this should prevent the severe chafing

or possible impact damage that has been observed on the yard. Thus, perhaps this rigging “apparel” is less

“perilous” for the boat. An even more “parrel-less” suggestion is using a leathered bronze mast traveler.

(M.Maartens personal communication) (image courtesy O. Helgerson, please also see

https://www.storerboatplans.com/tuning/lug-rig-setup/goat-island-skiff-rig-and-rigging-details-for-efficient-lug-

sails/). (image courtesy O. Helgerson)

https://www.storerboatplans.com/tuning/lug-rig-setup/goat-island-skiff-rig-and-rigging-details-for-efficient-lug-sails/

https://www.storerboatplans.com/tuning/lug-rig-setup/goat-island-skiff-rig-and-rigging-details-for-efficient-lug-sails/


Protecting the mast at the thwart. The Scaffie mast can be chafed during rigging by the corners on the mast

thwart opening, and when underway from impact movement caused by the 3mm or greater gap between the mast

and surrounding wood. Hitching, chamois leather and epoxy have been used to close the gap, protecting the

mast. Hitching has the advantages of probably costing less, being relatively easy to apply and not retaining water

like leather, thus avoiding potential rot. Cheap varnish soaked into the cordage helps keep it in place (please see

image “Soft shackles,” A. Duthie “Small is beautiful” DA Article).

Mast foot repair. Occasionally wear and tear, especially on a moored boat in tidal conditions, can lead to rot in

the mast foot (especially in the mizzen masts of other boats). Once the wood is sufficiently dried, a general

approach is using lower viscosity epoxy to penetrate and stabilize wood fibres, followed by an epoxy filler to

restore contours, an epoxy top coat and then varnish for UV protection. For specifics, please see

https://www.pettigrews.org.uk/lm/page002.htm or epoxy vendors.

Soft shackles. A soft shackle tied from ¼” 12-strand Dyneema (see Grog Knots) at the downhaul reduces chafing of

the mast as compared to a stainless steel hook. At the clew-to-mainsheet connection, a soft shackle reduces the

mass and hardness of rigging that could impact skipper or crew during tacking or gybing. Soft shackles tied from

¼” 8-strand polypropylene provide low cost practice before attempting the more expensive and difficult Dyneema.

They are also handy to have for attaching kit such as boat fenders and for gifts. The two boat cushions in the

image provide a handy resting place for the mast when de rigged and the anchor when underway (image O.

Helgerson.)

https://www.pettigrews.org.uk/lm/page002.htm


Reefing. Using black and white lines for the two rows of reefing nettles helps reduce confusion and save time on

Scaffie “Katy.” The front reefing cringles hold snap shackles for ease of attachment and the luff cringles use ¼”

lines for ease of grasping and crew safety. Lines connecting the snap shackles offer further safety in being able to

reef under windy conditions (A. Duthie “Small is beautiful… DA Article). Although not often needed, a third row of

reefing points can be very handy to have as a final backstop. The canine navigator is an owner supplied option.

(image courtesy S. Wolstoncroft).

Boom and sail battens. Good questions. A search of the DA Forum indicated discussion of adapting booms and

battens to other Drascombe models. One Scaffie owner was willing to test using a boom, but no reports were

found indicating how it might have worked. Regarding battens, A lug sailed Dabber was noted using “soft” battens

that increased performance upwind and down (S. Ellis 2006 Forum).


Rethreading wooden horn brackets. The threads, cut in wood, can wear enough to allow the thumbscrews to fall

out. One easy solution; clean the worn threads by running a tap through once or twice, line the hole with epoxy

using a toothpick and re-cut new threads. As compared to metal inserts, the smaller amount of epoxy is probably

less likely to cause shrinkage and cracking problems with the surrounding wood. The stainless eye bolts, same

thread as the thumbscrews, are easier to see and dress things up. (image courtesy O. Helgerson).

.

Major rigging changes

Rigging a junk sail. The adapted junk rig’s greater sail area (118 square feet) combined with a centre plate and

absence of bilge keels produced a Scaffie that proved to be highly seaworthy, quick to reef and fast. For details

and an image, see; S. Ellis 2006 DA Forum, S. Ellis “A Junk-rigged Scaffie,” DA article.

Bowsprit and jib. This rigging appears to have been added on three boats and was part of the original design on

the similar sized Scaith. The jib is reported as useful in very light winds. The boat retains some weather helm. It

should not be used if fully powered or if reefing is needed (for images, please see A. Duthie “Small is beautiful” DA

Article, A. Duthie “Scaffie Photos” DA Article).

ABOVE THE DECK

Tents and sprayhoods. With its gaff, removable mast and two pairs of oar locks, the Scaffie invites some sort of

tent set up. One arrangement uses the mast over the centreline as a lengthwise ridgepole for supporting a wall

tent . A more common alternative is adapting a lightweight, off-the-shelf, two-person camping tent with its hoops

held by the rowlocks (Images courtesy M. Maartens, E. Wade-Brown). Steve & Viv Hill's “St Jovihill” tent, partially

supported by a trapezium-shaped frame aft of the mast, extended around the mast to the prow. The main tent

body detached, leaving the forward portion to serve as a sprayhood. The following link to a Duckworks article

provides additional design detail for both tent types.

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/03/r/vintage/sbj/004/index.htm

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/03/r/vintage/sbj/004/index.htm


(image courtesy Michel Maartens and E.Wade-Brown).

Compass. Compasses have been attached to thwarts by at least two methods. A diy fix secures a small plank

holding the compass atop the forward thwart with bungee cord (images courtesy O. Helgerson)

Underthwart storage. Scaffies are short on storage. In addition to carving ports into buoyancy foam or hinging the

kingplank near the bow to access the keel, another solution is adapting under-seat storage bags designed for RIBs

and Canadian canoes. Various sizes and shapes are available which can offer attachment points for other items.

The larger ones may need tailoring with a sewing machine (E. Wade-Brown 2012 Forum). Fire extinguishers have

been stored under forward or stern thwarts using either wood screws or soft wire twist ties for attachment. (image



Tie down points. On Drascombes, the kingplank’s central circular fitting provides a useful attachment point. For

Scaffie “Katy,” it secures a lifeline for solo sailing and the reboarding strop (see image “Underthwart storage”).

More attachment points are easily created by tying a loop of line around the king plank where needed (J. Easton

2010 Forum, image courtesy O. Helgerson). Discussion arose as to whether this system could be used for securing

a toe strap for hiking out. A concern is the strength of the underlying grp “weld” holding the two stainless steel U-

bolts that secure the king plank. On one boat, this underlying attachment was reinforced with additional glass

fabric and resin

Sea anchors (drogues). With no jib, heaving-to is a problem. A recommendation seen on the forum attributed to

the designer, was pointing the nose into the wind, securing the tiller and letting the sail flog. As an alternative,

experience indicates that a sea anchor (aka drogue, trolling sock, etc.) stores easily on the forward deck and when

deployed holds the bow at about a 45 degree angle to oncoming waves. A folded commercial unit can be seen on

the port bow of the image under “Soft shackles.” A bailing bucket with a sturdy handle has also been utilized (S.

Duthie “Scaffie Photos” DA Article).

DERIGGING, TRANSPORT AND STORAGE

Tie down thwart (spanset) and mast crutch. The removable thwart (concept per Forum) prevents the hull’s tie

down strap from pulling the gunwhales inward, reducing stress on the hull and keeping the boat-trailer connection

secure. Mast crutches (a second one off image further forward) help the mast withstand downward bending

forces from the boat cover’s tie down straps and rain and snow loads. Bungees, at each bracket, secure the horns

during derigging and transport to help keep lines untangled. (image scf.bungeeholdshorsefortransport). Another

bungee secures the tiller to the mast to prevent movement and chafing . A piece of foam pipe insulation protects

mast’s finish from the tiller extension hardware.


(image courtesy O. Helgerson).

Trailers. The Scaffie, with its three keels, needs somewhat of a specialized trailer design. Three types of trailers

seem to be commonly used for hauling Scaffies; single spine, double spine and an “Indespension Combi.” On a

single spine trailer, the full-keel Scaffie sits higher up and can be more difficult to load and unload. On a double

spine trailer, however, the keel rollers are lower, between the spines on the sides, making for easier unloading and

loading. The “Indispension Combi” consists of a lighter weight, detachable two-wheeled launching trolley resting

atop the road trailer. For beach launching, the trolley is separated from the trailer and is used in manhandling the

boat to and from the water. On steeper slipways, the tow vehicle positions the trailer for launching and retrieval

as with a standard trailer. In the UK and Europe, the single spine models seem common often with rollers designed

to support the bilge keels. Hinged trailers are also available. A note of caution, hull damage has been noted with

unsprung trailers sporting hull rollers. In North America, Scaffie trailers seem to be of the wishbone, or “Y”

configuration, with central keel rollers, mounted on cross members, seeming to bear most of the weight while hull

rollers provide balance (see image “Boat cover”). Typically, these trailers have springs. Scaffie “Katy” hauls nicely

and launches easily with her roller trailer (for images please see A. Duthie DA Scaffie Photos DA article).

Boat cover. For a number of reasons, a boat cover is a very good idea for boats stored out of doors. In particular,

wetting and drying from the weather induces cracking and warping in wood. A boat cover can moderate moisture

content changes in wood components, such as the mast thwart, maintaining their structural integrity. Two types of

cover seem to have been used. Those which attach over the gunwhales, which may use the mast as a longitudinal

ridge pole and those which attach inside the hull. The over-the-gunwhale cover in the image has lasted 10 years

out of doors. Probably a UV resistant fabric, it has also received annual treatment of a solvent-based combination

UV inhibitor and water proofing compound (Atsko WaterGuard Extreme tm). However, the fabric cover sags when

wet, collecting rain water and snow. Thus, during the off-season it is covered by a low-cost non-sag poly tarp that


more effectively sheds precipitation. These seem to last two seasons. Cockpit covers which fasten within the hull

seem to be the only option for boats stored on the water (image courtesy O. Helgerson).

Acknowledgements

Kind thanks to Tom Colville and Michel Maartens for providing very useful insights on the draft manuscript, to co-

author Elizabeth Wade-Brown for solid writing and editing assistance, to DA for timely encouragement and to all

who contributed knowledge pertaining to Scaffies on the Drascombe Forum and its other publications. We tried to

cover the Scaffie waterfront as fully and as objectively as possible.

the scaffie – by ole helgerson and elizabeth wade-brown

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