Volume 30 Mar/Apr/May 2011

The lighter and darker sides of Bali, Asia’s fashionable playground

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The Yak Magazine Agustina Ardie, Sophie Digby, Nigel Simmonds

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Volume ThirtyMarch/April/May 2011

The Yak’s monthly e-newsletter is distributed to 20,000 mailboxes every month. To subscribe go to www.theyakmag.com

Cover CreditsPhoto: Matteo Basilé, from the Wonderland series. www.matteobasile.com

Luxury In Pr int

yPodBali Version 2.0 – The Yak's iPhone App – is now available from the App Store.

Volume 30 Mar/Apr/May 2011

The lighter and darker sides of Bali, Asia’s fashionable playground

IDR68,000 : S$11 : HK$50 : A$10 : €5

72 11812234

48

62 fOCuS

Shooting Stars

INBOuND

Potato Headonism72

36 YAKETY YAK

Miracles 80 TRAVEl

Nipponski

38 NEW IN ThE hOOD

Notables

48 OuT Of ThE BOx

Red Active

54 CulTuRE VulTuRE

Matteo's Wonderland

112 ORAl PlEASuRES

James & Mozaic

94104

YAK fAShION

Lilly's Loves

INTERVIEW

Bag Man

106 DuOVIEW

Aint No 5 Dollar Cola

110 INTERWhO

Green Light

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136 ORAl PlEASuRES

Star Fish

140 CATWAlK

Fashion Diary

144 fAShION fREESTYlE

Threads of Life

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ORAl PlEASuRES

Thai Dye

CONSTANT WININg

Infusion Enthusion 162158

SOuNDS AROuND

James Lavelle

fEATuRE

Selphie Bong

164 RAVERS REVIEW

Muso Musings

170 ADVERTISER DIRECTORY

Who's Who

166 ASTRO YAK

Scope of Horror

102 8054 38

ORAl PlEASuRES

Fish Face120114 ORAl PlEASuRES

Raw Food

IMAgINE that sour is no longer sour and that bitter becomes sweet. A place where men actually choose broccoli over muffins and children profess a penchant for spinach. Where sugarholics can banish their cravings with carrot and celery sticks, even cauliflower florettes.

Is there an alternate world? Or could it happen in this lifetime, on this planet? Would it take a miracle? Supposedly all it takes is one simple fruit, called sysepalum dulcificum, Nature’s very own answer to getting healthier, simply and amazingly without much effort. Sysepalum dulcificum, or Miracle fruit, was discovered in ghana and Cameroon in 1727 and brought to Europe, however it was many years until the enormity of its ‘indirect’ benefits would be understood and has only just been picked up by The Yak – yes, we are a tad behind and we just came back from Japan!

Miracle fruit is not ‘healthy’ for you in its simple form, per se. It does not compete against the much-lauded goji, for example; it is not a super food. It is a very humble berry that is actually, tasteless – chew one berry for sixty seconds and spit the pip – however, its magic power lies in its active ingredient, Miraculin protein. Miraculin has the ability of turning the bitter and sour taste buds into being receptive to ‘sweet’; hence the sourest of limes will taste like freshly squeezed, sweetened lemonade; sour and bitter tasting foods convert to manis. It turns the – to some people – unpalatable, palatable. Think sludgy, de-tox juices (ones that make you squirm with distaste) actually becoming top of your breakfast list! Or the blessing of chemo patients actually having an appetite, and putting on weight. Just in the same way as fat can become slender, assisting in dropping calorific intake substantially, since it’s goodbye to all added sugars and sweeteners. More importantly it is also a godsend for diabetics, who can enjoy sweets without eating the sugar.

It seems that the Miracle berry sweetens the palate without any negative side effects, and keeps you in the pink, just as we at The Yak aim to sweeten your palette and keep you

in visual, tip top condition, flourishing and enjoying Bali – Asia’s fashionable playground – with this, our 30th edition.

So as not to spill the beans, or should I say the berries, too much, we wow you with Wonderland – a photographic journey of Matteo Basilé’s larger-than-life life. We follow that up with our biggest miracle to date – a spread in which leonardo DiCaprio, Michael Caine and hugh Jackman are pressed gently between our pages All thanks and whistles to international photographer-to-the-stars, hugh Stewart, who potters around Bali with his family from time to time. Testing the Ph factor in The Yak’s new playground – Potatohead – is next, before we fly away to Japan to meet up with the manor that is the land of the Rising Sun, (home to the Miracle fruit Café in Tokyo’s Namjatown, which serves the miracle berry to much acclaim). What’s the Bali connection you might ask? We were privileged to send a bit of Bali to Japan, that’s what.

The Yak fashion spread, lilly’s Diary, transports us back in time – time travel is definitely a miracle – to the dulcet era of Bohemian romance before we go eco-friendly with ecological lighting, a sweet reality thanks to delighting and their eco-whizz kid francois xavier hoffner. We hop up to ubud to meet James Ephraim who lends his miraculous fingers to the kitchens of Mozaic (Bali’s top notch Table du Monde eatery) and touches our taste buds all over. Then into our alchemical March mix goes Sardine, Infusions by Alila with a touch of Thai dye. The post-pages of fashion freestyle sees the magical launch of a new Yak ‘pause for thought’ moment with our very own fashion Diary, written by globe-trotting fashionista Caitlin Andrews from the top catwalks of the world's hip-swaying moments. lastly, we sweeten your palette with Astroyak and what the future holds in store for you before we bid you adieu (Pluto is trying to put a bit of sour into the mix, damn it). That said, Yakkers, we bid you sampai jumpa and may The Yak be with you!

P.S. A Miracle berry before a Bloody Mary is not recommended.

Dear Yak,gosh this last issue with Kelly Slater on the front. You haven't just raised the bar, you have reinvented it! Bill QuinlanBali

Many thanks Bill.

Dear Yak,Big congrats on a wonderful December edition of The Yak...WOW!...it looks amazing. So excited that Kolektor is a part of it. Big cheers and thanks again for the fabulous coverage.Sharon Kolektor.

And cheers to you too.

Dear Yak,I drooled over my copy of The Yak (and a bottle of red) all friday. Thanks

so much for a great issue.Chloé MachinBali

Drooling is allowed. Especially on Fridays.

Dear Yak,Congratulations, I'm looking at The Yak Dec Issue, probably the best ever... until now!Roberto Pura Vida

We hope you like this latest offering sir!

Dear Yak,Thanks for the shout out on the MinYak. I'm getting a lot of feedback on the blog, really happy you are helping me get it out further.Karen WaddellManhattan

Because we like it when he says, "You're only supparsed ta blow tha bladdy daws off", and because he's the consummate professional (a huge rat once ran over his foot during a scene in The Quiet American, we hear, and he didn't miss a beat); and because he's just, well, a very cool grandad, we are sending a copy of The Yak to this legendary actor via his agent so that he can enjoy Hugh Stewart's awesome portrait of himself. His names is...Michael Caine.

YAkINTHElAPOF...Michael Caine

YAkINTHElAPOF...Michael Caine

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Biku HighsJust as the Duchess of Bedford, Queen Victoria’s lady-in-waiting, introduced high tea to high society, it's fitting that it lives on in Bali as a royal family affair through Biku’s owner, our very own Princess Asri Kerthyasi and her son, Tjok gde, a tea master. Introducing Asian high Tea daily, Biku's delicacies include scones with dates and mango jam, Moroccan Orange Cake with rose tea syrup, and Asri’s favourite, Salak poached in cinnamon and star anise. Pair it with a choice of Sencha green Tea or one of the Oolongs, which are served with appropriate pomp and ceremony, and it becomes a regal experience. English high Tea and the Children’s high Tea are also on offer,

and tarot readings are available throughout the weekend. Discover if you have regal roots or if your just plain real. It’s a bargain at Rp150,000 with tea for two.Tel: 8570888 www.bikubali.com Yak Map O.5

Divine Indivie A bijoux shop in Made’s Warung’s new retail space, Indivie sells limited edition gifts, homewares, jewelery and objects of desire with everything handmade in Bali and beyond. This is a designer’s dream: collaborations include some of Bali’s notables like gaya Ceramics, Carlo furnishings, artist Davina Stephens and ceramicist hilary Kane. Some firm favourites include handwoven textiles from flores with contemporary stripe patterns and handmade soaps that look like stones, scented with Kaffir lime and Minty Basil. One of their charitable items on sale – handmade Bali Rag Dolls – benefits street children through a collaboration with the Yayasan Kasih Peduli Anak (www.ykpa.org). All in, Indivie takes the ordinary and makes it extraodinary. A perfect place to pick up pressies for pals and a few bits and pieces for yourself.Tel: 730927 info@indivie.com Yak Map V.11

Sunset SoundsSitting in a drab office longing to head to Ku for a sundowner and a sashay with the beautiful people instead of banging away for your buck? Well just tune in to Ku de Ta’s new radio programme on Beat Radio 98.5 fM and crank up the volume. until you can get there you can pretend you’re partying with the posh instead of slaving at your dreary desk. Plenty of punters from overseas who are missing the shores of Bali are tuning in on line at www.koffee.com.au with Donni One, Billy Tymoszuk and a selection of KDT’s resident DJ’s giving us the groove and the Bali beat. The programme airs every Tuesday and Thursday at 4pm and Sundays at 1pm.Tel: 736969 www.kudeta.net Yak Map N.9

New NeighborsThere is little missing in our haven of The Yak but sometimes a little more of Bali’s mystical artistic integrity wouldn’t go amiss. have no fear dear The Seminyak Beach Resort and Spa has replaced that pesky old Resor Seminyak. The upmarket beautiful beach resort is designed to be a blend of the contemporary with the Balinese touch as inspired by the natural surroundings, thereby befitting international lifestyles and our trendy neck of the woods. Rooms, suites, penthouses and private villas are all available and apparently high season bookings are already off the charts. Welcome to the hood.Tel: 730814 www.theseminyak.com

Heritage by Revoheritage is a contemporary reinterpretation of classic European table radio designs from the 1960s, constructed using aluminium and real walnut veneer and infused with the latest multi-platform digital radio technology. This multi-format digital radio provides coverage of DAB, DAB+, fM and Wi-fi internet radio – as well as offering wireless audio streaming and docking for iPod. Now available at sKs, heritage is the perfect mix of classic European design and contemporary digital technology.www.sksbali.com Yak Map T.8

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Benson & Mister Zimi Say HiThree young hipsters from Melbourne have moved to Bali to brandish their brands – Mister Zimi and Benson – together in the same cute shop between Seminyak Square and grocer & grind. Mister Zimi is a fashion label that was born on holiday a few years back when Zoe and her husband Jimi took a trip to Bali. After playing around with some sketches of leather jackets in the sand, she had them made. “five days, two suntans and far too many cocktails later, a parcel arrived at our villa labeled 'Mister Zimi' – aka us, Zoe and Jimi. And so our label was born.” Expect expertly tailored leather jackets and footwear, Italian silk separates and edgy designs for the young at heart. Their partner Benson is boasting boy shorts that veer towards naughty nautical. As Benson says: “They are guaranteed to give you that all over tan”. Oh man!Zimi Tel: 085857451767 www.misterzimi.com; Benson: 085857565877 www.bensonshorts.com; Yak Map P.7

Nico PerezNico Perez’s label has been taken out of his furniture shop Deefusion and put into a brand new boutique just across the street. Expect more fabulous designs from Nico, who dresses men (and now women) effortlessly in 100% pure linen and the softest of cottons. Choose from a selection of perfectly proportioned shirts, pants and shorts in a selection of classic pastels and muted colours. for the girls there's tops T's, dresses and a whole lot more. Visitors to Bali have been known to bring empty suitcases to take his threads away to other tropical climes. A class act.Tel: 738308 www.nicoperez.net Yak Map S.8

loving lombokleave The Yak hood and head to Jeeva Klui, a beachfront paradise for the jaded at which to indulge and recharge their batteries for the next round of abuse. Indonesian Architect Shinta Siregar has hit the mark using only local and, where possible, recycled materials, creating modern luxury and laidback indulgence. Robinson Crusoe would have been at home here but you will be pleasantly surprised by the hidden mod cons and the PC nature of the place that uses sustainable local materials, such as handmade terracotta tiles, bamboo weaves, stone and recycled timber. Before you ask friday to fetch you a daiquiri, take note that the beach named Klui that this pad resides on is located just at the edge of the infamous Wallace line. After three or four of friday’s specials, see if you can notice the change in birdlife overhead between one palm to another. Tel: + 62 370 693 035 www.jeevaklui.com

Quarzia This stylish den of fabulous men’s and women’s hand-painted silk separates is gearing up for high season with a slew of new sarongs for sale. Experts in textiles, Quarzia offers contemporary batiks on Italian silks. Men’s wrap pants and shirts and ladies dresses, robes, and silk separates are all top drawer. Silk is as soft as a baby’s bottom and as slinky as the yummy Mummy who wears it.Tel: 736759 www.quarzia.it Yak Map P.8

Benson.

Spirit of BaliBend over backwards in true yogic fashion to ensure you don't miss this year's Bali Spirit festival (March 23rd-27th). Top of the list, and very special guest, is his holiness Swami Saraswati of India; joining the list of luminaries of the Yogic kind are Twee Merrigan, Carlos Pomeda, March Whitwell and Yegeswari, among others. live music and dance will hail from India, Canada, Argentina, West Africa, Australia and Indonesia with the likes of filter Coffee, Delhi to Dublin, los Pinguos, Dafra Drum and Dance. This year both The Purnati Arts Centre (10 minutes south of ubud) and the ARMA museum grounds host the daily workshops (there's over 100) and live world music performances (family day is held on the 27th). for more information about this Citibank sponsored event check into www.balispiritfestival.com

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SOS Save Our SipsSOS just celebrated its first birthday since reopening and is taking things to the next level with a new expanded Supper Club that will focus more on “rooftop grill dining” by expanding the kitchen facilities and doubling up the restaurant's seating capacity – aka more room for their ribs and yours.

Newly decorated, it will include an even higher mezzanine level for seaside slurping next to their legendary suspended glass catwalk and will be finished just in time for high season. Johan Roberman, former gM of Ku Dé Ta is overseeing the project as head of f&B and new Executive Chef Brandon huisman from The Balé is also on the team. Expect that same gracious service that has made SOS number one of the top restaurant escapes in the world. Keep a peeper out for your very own VIP “White Platinum” card, which will give you lots of benefits. Don’ t forget too that Anantara uluwatu is soon to open. Tel: 737773 www.bali.anantara.com Yak Map P.11

Roll up, Roll upSea Circus is no longer nocturnal. Now it’s open during the day for breakfast, lunch and killer coffee with a handmade expresso machine built by Synesso. fully trained baristas will serve you your java, and when ordering a cuppa go for the “5 senses’ coffee” – custom roasted in Kintimanti. for brunch we’re loving the “hangover happy Meals” with a full English breakfast, expresso, Berocca shot, Panadol and a happy game. You can also order a 15-minute shoulder and neck massage while sipping a “Rock Star Bloody Mary”, with Citrus Belvedere, Pimms, tomato juice, homemade horseradish and all the trimmings. Air con comfort, international papers and free wifi, this is a great hang. Monday-Saturday 8am-3pm/6pm-late; Sunday 11am-late. look out for the Sunday Brunch & Beats (every Sunday from 11am-5pm). Tel: 738667 www.seacircus-bali.com Yak Map N.7

Farah khan Social butterflies of Seminyak (you know who you are) are well familiar with clothing designer and style maven farah Khan of Malaysia, often seen fluttering about all the hottest spots in Bali. So drawn to the flame is she that her label The farah Khan Resort Range will now be available here at two shops: one at W Retreat & Spa Bali - Seminyak and one at The legian hotel. farah’s fashions offer easy opulence for the jetsetting woman. Kaftans are light and bright with glints of embellished trimming on luxurious chiffons. Evening wear is flamboyant and decadent with heavy handsewn beading. Young celebs and sports stars have recently been spotted in the label, including Ashley Tisdale, Jaime Presley, lauren Conrad and Maria Sharapova.www.farahkahn.com

Raw, Rare and NakedWith what has to be one of the best beachfront positions for a Bali restaurant, Starfish Bloo enters our reality this month under the management of W’s Chef Jack Yoss, a chap who has worked with Wolfgang Puck and other celeb chefs no less. his culinary expeditions have taken him from Alaska to Bali with stops in Italy, Belgium, france, Vietnam, Malaysia, Thailand, Japan and beyond, making him the perfect Chef to head up his own Pan Asian restaurant. Elements at the new restaurant include a Japanese inspired raw bar surrounded on three sides by an aquarium with glowing tetra fish; an Ice bar with a glass tower, a 200 bottle wine cellar with 50 wines by the glass and a charcuterie bar, where you can chose your own meats and cheeses, sourced worldwide and not available anywhere else in Bali. Yoss is a perfectionist and as such he has even created his own farm in Bedugal with a local partner to grow herbs and vegetables that he couldn’t find on the island. Check out our Starfish Bloo food photos on page 134. www.whotels.com/baliseminyak Yak Map O.4

Fired Up Weekend backyard chefs beware – there is a new kid on the block at Ayana’s signature restaurant Dava. American Chef de Cuisine John Nash is overseeing Dava’s transformation into an innovative steak and seafood restaurant. Nash, hot off the grill from The Ritz-Carlton in Doha, joined Ayana partly, he says, because “they have given me room to play”. The new steakhouse will offer the six best cuts of meats that are prepared sous-vide (that's french for ‘under vacumn’ to you) a process used by such luminaries as Joel Robushon and Paul Bocuse. Chef’s choice of a seafood starter is Borneo Crab Cake breaded and pan friend and served with ginger, garlic and Soy and accompanied by pickled cucumber. Say’s the dashing Nash: “Bali is just a perfect place to be creative and my medium is food”. Tel: 702222 www.ayanaresort.com

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NestetiqueIn this physical world, on an island that wears very little clothing, Nestetique is bound to be a huge success. looking good is a necessary Bali trait and Nestetique has invested in numerous revolutionary machines that can help us look our best without going under the dreaded knife, or have our faces play the role of pin cushion to paralyse those wrinkles. Their miracle machines encompass the Icoone - works on cellulite, localized fat and loose skin and tissue; Aluma - for wrinkles, laxity and anti-ageing; huniq - a photomodulation lED that helps produce the ever-necessary collagen for that youthful look; hipulse - fantastic for a variety of age related negatives on face and body; Cultra - an ultrasonic-cavitational energy that hits the subcutaneous fat and dissolves it in just a few sessions - great for regaining that sculpted stomach to its pre-baby day shape, in other words a non surgical liposuction - and the galileo - a machine that tones, strengthens muscle and reshapes also great for lymphatic drainage - a 15 minute meeting with galileo is equal to a one hour session at the gym! The Nestetique body menu also offers fabulous facials with reflexology, jet peels and more. located in Istana Kuta galeria.Tel. 768120 www.nestetique.com Yak Map E.11

Nutrition Mission at Fivelementsfivelements, the new eco-concious healing destination near ubud that has all of Bali’s yogis singing it’s praises, focuses on Balinese healing, living foods and Sacred Arts. Along these lines, the international founders have made it their mission to share their wealth of knowledge through a stunning line up of international speakers coming to Bali throughout the year. first on the books is acclaimed author and raw food guru David Wolfe, who has shared a stage with other motivational speakers including Buzz Aldrin and Anthony Robbins. A top authority on natural health and author of Superfoods: The Food and Medicine of the Future and Naked Chocolate, Wolfe is referred to as a “gourmet chocolatier” and is passionate about the healing powers of raw chocolate (cocao beans). Note to self: stash Cadburys and hershy’s in my yoga roll.Tel: 437223 www.fivelements.org

Oh For Dog’s SakeNaka Contemporary Art is a massive new gallery that houses a diverse collection of resident and multinational artists. Born out of a desire to engage the local and global community and provide a space where the dialogue of contemporary practices in varied artistic fields can be shown to a wider audience, the gallery is also determined to nurture new and upcoming Balinese and Indonesian artists, and provide them with the media they need to continue their art. Naka’s next exhibition (April 4th) will be for charity, with Naka inviting established/emerging artists from every corner of Indonesia to create unique, same-sized artworks of canines. The 100 artworks will then be exhibited together to raise money for three local animal rescue organisations, including BAWA (Bali Animal Welfare Association), BARC (Bali Animal Rescue) and Yudhistira Swara. Don’t miss a chance to bring home a pooch and help the pups on the streets.Tel: 733768 www.nakacontemporaryart.com

Mirror WatchIt’s a mirror on your wrist. until you press the button and find out you’re late for a meeting. Retro cool Mirror Watch by SDWorks, a platform commercializing items designed by promising talents from the School of Design at The hong Kong Polytechnic university. Available in Bali through sKs Simple Konsep Store. Yak Map T8. www.sksbali.com

East RisingThe Intruso Collection from Zapp Design marries Oriental influences with a minimalist contemporary look that highlights the natural patterns of the wood used in its construction. Yak Map: Z3. www..zapp-design.com

Colour CodeBrighten up your life in more ways than one with a colourful Buddha statue in five colours from Kolektor lifestyle concept store. Yak Map P7. www.kolektorbali.com

Speak UpAlways on the lookout for opportunities to bring the outdoors in, Word of Mouth JBl speakers come in a fiberglass housing and can hang, sit, lounge or otherwise hide themselves pretty much wherever you want. Yak Map W10. www.wordofmouthbali.com

Rock OnThis simple rocking chair is a

beautiful DIY project from SDWorks hong Kong. The packaging includes

a hammer and 14 nails. Available through sKs Simple Konsep Store, Yak

Map T8. www.sksbali.com

World Cupshandmade ceramics from the

Big Star series by those cheekily innovative chappies at Word of

Mouth are dishwasher safe. Yak Map W10.

www.wordofmouthbali.com

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MATTEO, can you tell us a little about yourself, how you grew up and where you are from. When did you first discover art, creativity, photography?I was born in Rome in 1974 and I come from a family, the Cascella, that has produced visual artists for the last five generations. I grew up in an atmosphere permeated with art. This was very important for me from an intellectual point of view, but it resulted in a total refusal on my part towards crafting or moulding any kind of physical matter. I never wanted to paint or carve and when I draw I only do so for my personal pleasure. Nonetheless, there is somehow imbedded in my DNA the memory of myself as a painter, a sculptor, a draftsman or a ceramicist. Somehow, I feel that the history of my family has bequeathed me with the memory of art-making. I started very young, approaching the world of street and graffiti art. graffiti represented for me a vehicle to break with the traditional art system, art for art that my parents practiced and lived. When I was 16, the first groups of graffiti artists started to appear on the Roman scene, I felt I was breathing again. from there I started to experiment with digital media with computers and with the Internet, foreseeing a different way to make and think art, where images could also include sound and speed. I then founded the studio Cromosoma where, together with other digital artists, I merged art and technology. We soon became a reference point for the media (cinema) and the fashion world. later I concentrated my research on printing techniques and supports, creating the term Plotter-painting. In other words it was the time in which digital art was born in Italy. What is your involvement with Bali?I came to Bali with my wife Dominique in 2006, and we have been struck by its energy and beauty. We decided at first to move here for a few months to realize the project ’Thisoriented’, that I later presented at the 53rd Venice Biennial in 2009. The project was focused on my perception of a contemporary cultural revolution that is taking place in Asia. We had travelled for years throughout South East Asia and we somehow got the sense that the future of the world is being negotiated from here. Why photography and videography as your principal media?I think those two media are absolutely extraordinary, not only in the way they address the present but also to represent the past and the future. Those are universal means, adopted throughout the world by both the art and the commercial system, often generating short-circuits between the two. In fact, we increasingly find ourselves in

front of artworks that emulate commercials or fashion. How do you start a project...how does the idea build?I am a visionary artist who constantly looks at history and tradition to realize human landscapes for the future. My projects and stories are often born from my dreams, from encounters with extraordinary people that I meet when I am crossing a place at a particular moment. As an artist of the new Millennium I adopt a voracious attitude towards any sound, alphabet and visual form. Art and cinema have always constituted a great form of inspiration for me. I love Pasolini and fellini’s Neorealism, filled with voluptuous women, dwarfs and ballerinas. I love Stanley Kubrick…Spike lee…David lynch…Caravaggio, Parmigianino, goya, Keith haring...from each of them I get inspiration. I sample elements then transform them into something different to be transfigured through my works. What are the themes that you explore most in your work?I address the nature and inclinations of human beings and their somehow wonderous monstruosity. My images travel between East and West, visually merging Italian Baroque, the sinous forms of Asia, the surprising beauty of an older woman and the mysterious gaze of an Indonesian child. My aesthetic relationship with beauty often does not correspond to classical canons. I am fascinated by imperfections and from defects that metamorphose a woman or a man into beautiful beings…although apparently ugly. Thus, I believe in the existence of an absolute beauty that nonetheless I find somehow annoying to account. Photography is the principal medium for the fashion world where subjects always appear as appealing and photogenic. Differently, my works are spiritual portraits where inner beauty and physical imperfection coincide. I explore and try to emphasize those invisible human sides that too often people tend to ignore.Does contemporary art always require a dialogue to explain it, do you think?Maybe I will say something against the tide, not really democratic, but I don’t believe that all forms of art are for everyone…if we think about music, literature or cinema…there are things you would never listen to, or movies you would never watch…because you are not interested or because there is something about it that exceeds your sensibility or your ability to comprehend a certain language. Instead when it comes to visual art, people often do not consider that it is a language that requires universal subtitles to be understood by everyone…otherwise it is

not art…it reminds me of the people you find aside at the museum that say,:“I could have done that!”We love the Biasa campaign that appears in The Yak. Tell us how that came about.The collaboration with Biasa has been a natural passage and at the same time a coincidence. Susanna Perini is a dear friend and I did my first exhibition with her in Bali. I think she is one of the sharpest and most intelligent talent-scouts for Indonesian contemporary art. She was excellent in merging the love for art and fashion in a particular formula. When she asked me to think about a new campaign for Biasa I thought about a series of photos that are, I think, unusual as traditional fashion images. Technically you also appear to be extremely capable; not only as an artist but technologically adept as well...is this important for your work?I am a technology addict…always researching new systems, media and techniques to realise my works. On the other side I always try to be invisible…I feel that the work must talk for itself and take the viewer into a different dimension. Man Ray used to say: for sure, there will always be somebody that will only look to the technique and will ask himself ‘how’, while others with a more curious nature will ask ‘why’. let’s put it this way: today the curiosity of the single individual is increasingly rarified, and perhaps the artists are there to remind us that things are not always what they appear to be. What's next for Matteo Basilé?I recently opened my personal exhibition in Milan at the galleria Pack entitled Thishumanity, a project almost entirely realized in Bali. Thishumanity is the reason that brought me to Asia generally and to Bali specifically. It drove me to experiment from another point of view, the way in which the world is mutating. Thishumanity carries the double meaning of a humanity represented in its struggle to survive no matter what. I imagined a series of battles in which different humanities, different minorities, would fight. The project is meant to explore the causes that lead groups of people to fight each other. The first chapter of the series is women in battle. Women that fight other women to find within this ultimate gesture an identity that they feel they are losing. A feminine identity as mothers, women and warriors… but never as a men. The work is a homage to women and life. A collective portrait of 140 women from different nationalities and generations, a tribute to femininity. The next chapter will be probably realised in Russia…other imaginary armies, maybe Catholics against orthodox.

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Hugh Stewart photographs some of the biggest names in the world for some of the biggest magazines. Yet he's a farmer, a Bali lover and a father at heart.

HUGH, how did you first get into photography and then end up working for the biggest names in the business?I'm the eldest of seven children and my mother died when I was 13. My father was so overwhelmed with bringing up all of us and running a farm that for the most part we were able to do what we wanted. I decided I hated school and left at 16. I think I passed my English exam. had my mother lived this would not have happened. She was not from a family of farmers and I would never have been allowed to leave without finishing. Saying that, I could well have been guided into a career I disliked, so I'm not resentful. I somehow managed to stumble through a printing apprenticeship. I absolutely hated it. I made it bearable by working in the darkroom making offset plates as well as doing simple graphic design for business cards and letterheads. I got very sick of it very quickly too and started using the darkroom to forge tickets to concerts. The Ramones, The Clash, The Jam, The Specials and Madness…they all came to New Zealand and they all wondered why there were so many people at their concerts but sold so few tickets. This got a bit out of hand and when I outsold the promoter on a Cure concert I decided I might be safer in the uK. I landed in london in 1981 with very little money and a camera inherited from a recently deceased aunt. I was one of the first people to start what became quite a notorious squat in north london. All sorts of people lived there. Some who have gone on to be very successful artists, actors, designers, writers and photographers. I photographed them all and continued photographing my friends when I moved to NY in 1983. To cut a very

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Leonardo DiCaprio. And a possibly superfluous caption.

My name is...

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Sofia Coppola.

Nicole Kidman. Her middle name is Mary

don't you know.

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long story short I eventually ended up in Sydney and took what was now my first portfolio to Australian Vogue. They started using me to shoot portraits for them. The intervening years have seen me move back and forward between london, Sydney and New York. I extended my photography into the fashion realm but have always remained a portrait photographer. It's where I'm most comfortable and it's what I find most interesting.Part of your job is to shoot celebs, and we guess they often don’t have much time. How do you prepare?By the time the person I'm shooting arrives I’ve worked out exactly where and what I want to shoot and have back up plans ready if they are unsure of my ideas. I will often have lights and tripods set up in different places so we can get as much done in the time available. Actors especially like to be told what to do. I'm clear about what I want and because I usually light things the same way I don't have any issues with being unsure about how I'm going to achieve what I want technically. Then I make sure I've googled them and know enough about them so I can at least sound like I know who they are and what they have done. finally I’m quick, I talk to them while I'm shooting and try as hard as I can to convey the impression I know what I want, what I’m talking about and what I'm doing. Do you work alone when you’re shooting celebrities…or is it a team of hair and makeup, wardrobe, the works?Mostly I'm commissioned by magazines. I always work with an assistant. I've had several over the years and usually have someone that stays working for me for many years. Almost every assistant I've had has gone off and forged their own career as a photographer. Presently I work with Oliver. In New York with Scott. he and I have worked together for over 20 years and when in london, Chris. Occasionally I will have two assistants and once did a movie poster for hBO where I had seven! They all know exactly how I shoot and what I need. We don't need to discuss any of that stuff. The atmosphere is light. We muck around a lot, but I’m the boss and I don't help with the packing up. More recently I work with a digital operator who is responsible for downloading all the images onto the computer and backing everything up. Often there are hair and makeup people, stylists, art directors and publicists and invariably their assistants on the shoot as well.What are you looking for in this kind of portrait?I want a portrait that looks like it's taken by me. I also want something that tells a little about the person I'm shooting. I prefer to shoot in their homes or studios if I can. I'm not interested in torturing people to get uncomfortable, awkward expressions from them. I let things happen naturally. If everyone is relaxed and the person I’m photographing is comfortable, it’s easy. Sometimes they already know my work or I will show them the first images on the computer. If they like what they see then you are home and hosed. I like to get asked back.

Have you ever tried a self-portrait? Do you like what you see?Not really. Maybe as I get older and hopefully a little more interesting looking I may try. But for now it's enough to have to look at myself in the mirror. We like to think we know a bit about photography…but the light in your images is outstanding. There’s a glorious subtle tone to your work. What’s your secret?I prefer very low light. I love daylight and although it's not always possible, I try to make it seem that is what I've used. I use large octobanks with very heavy defuser with flash and often use keno flows mixed with existing daylight when I just need that little extra but don't want to kill the shot with too much light. I love finding the light and I'm not afraid to ask someone to sit still for a quarter of a second. What camera do you use?I mainly shoot on a Canon now and occasionally a wooden 5x4 film camera. I still love my Mamiya 6x7 but don't get the opportunity to get it out much anymore. The 5x4 provokes a very different reaction from the subject. Everything is slower and you really have to commit to the shot. With digital you can work out the cropping and exposure as you go but when you have five sheets of film and you're shooting at a half a second you really have to be sure of what your doing. Sometimes I prefer that... We can’t resist any longer. What’s Michael Caine like? And while we’re at it, who’s the most interesting person you have ever shot?Michael Caine was great. unpretentious. I first shot him in Vietnam on the set of The Quiet American and then later in a studio in Sydney. he is professional. he knows he has a job to do. he seems nice to everyone. he remembers names. Beyond that I don't really know. I've met a lot of people but to say I was friends with them or that I hung out in their world would be inaccurate. I'm not really interested beyond getting my photos. I'm friends with a couple of the ones I've shot but those friendships go back before they were successful. Outside of my work we live a very ordinary family life. Ok, so we go overseas a lot more than most but within that we function as a slightly eccentric but fairly normal loud family. And who was the most problematic?I've never had an issue with anyone. I once shot Paul Newman on the set of a film and because he is a method actor and because when we shot he was in costume he would only answer to his character’s name and would only say to me what he thought the character would say. The character was supposed to be a cranky old bastard so that was a bit difficult. I shot him again a few years later and he wasn't on a movie and he could not have been nicer. he drove

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Johnny Cash.

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Paul Newman.

Hugh Stewart, by D.HUMP.

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himself to the shoot in an old four-door Mercedes sedan, told us lots of stories and hung around after the shoot while we packed up. looking back that was not long before he died, so he must have known he was ill and yet he was charming and humble. Clint Eastwood too. Amazing. Spent all afternoon with Scott and I in a field in Carmel where he lives. Turned up on his own in the pickup truck from Madison County with a bottle of wine and told us stories about John huston and Sergio leone for hours. Then helped us pack up and drove off. A week later we were in NY shooting some nameless celebrity chef who turned up with six black SuVs and about 10 publicists and assistants. Turned out to be quite a good guy too. But what a contrast. Can we have some stats...how many Vogue covers have you had? What about the other big name mags?I'm 50 so I've been doing this for a long time now. I've worked at different times for a lot of magazines but there are a few I had quite long relationships with. They were magazines I had always wanted to shoot for. Vanity Fair and British Vogue, id magazine are the three I'm most proud of but there are lots of others and several now that I still work with that allow me to take really interesting photos of some great people. I just shot geoffery Rush yesterday for Instyle…it just seems to roll along. A lot of these people I'm shooting again for the third and fourth time over a long period. I first shot geoffrey over 20 years ago. Personally, how do you approach life? What's important to you?I don't travel as much as I did. There was a time when we lived in NY that I was never home. It was fun. I saw a lot and stayed in some fairly amazing hotels and got driven around in lots of big black town cars. But eventually the family wins over. I've three children that like having me around and frankly they are more important to me that some 20 minute appointment with Tom hanks. We often all travel together and go, say, to london, rent an apartment for a couple of months and I will work there. That way I'm home at night and we don't feel life is too boring, but I can still keep my name in the odd decent magazine. We just seem to make it work somehow. What would you be doing if you weren’t a photographer?If I wasn’t a photographer I would be a farmer. I'm the first eldest son in five or six generations of farmers and the older I get the more I realize it's the ultimate life. As long as I had plenty of people to do most of the hard work and we could still travel and take portraits...I would also like to think that I had one film in me. Whether I get off my lazy ass for long enough to really do something about it I don't know, but I won't die really happy unless I try. What's the worst thing about what you do?I'm not really doing anything that useful. I'm not saving lives. I'm using up lots of jet fuel and radiating myself to fuck. I hope at some point I manage to put something back.

What’s the best?I don't have to work that hard, certainly, compared to most people I know. I have plenty of time off and make a reasonable living. My children are being well educated. My wife is hands-down the most beautiful woman in the world and despite the fact that I’m a full decade older than her and falling apart she still manages to sleep with me. There is not much to complain about. I'm not competitive with other photographers, I'm comfortable with the pictures I take and I'm still enthusiastic about it. I love the feeling of something going well. Of convincing someone far more worldly and smarter than me to go along with my idea for a few minutes and hopefully be pleased with the result. I've also had the opportunity to meet, work with and watch some fairly amazing people at work. Actors on sets, cinematographers, other photographers...and I can't not mention Baz luhrmann. I've worked with him since Romeo and Juliet. he gave me an opportunity when I first started and continues to let me come onto his sets and poke my camera around corners others don't get the chance to. The money I earned from the buyout for Chanel paid for our house. he really is an inspiration. he and Catherine Martin are absolutely without doubt the two most passionate artists I've met – and I've met a few. What are your other passions in life?I read a lot. I like the theater and seeing movies. I love going to Bali, staying at Dare Jennings’ house, slopping around in a sarong and riding a motorbike. That's enough really. As long as I'm doing this with my wife and our family and the odd friend drops by I really couldn't be happier. When was the last time you saw something that took your breath away?My four-year-old daughter Matilda swam across the pool on her own; my other daughter lily was Puck in the school play and stole the show; my son survived being three months premature and my wife survived cancer. These things are far more breathtaking and meaningful to me than meeting someone that just happens to be good at pretending to be someone else. I did see a giant rat run across Michael Caine’s foot when he was filming a scene in The Quiet American and he never flinched or missed his line. When the camera stopped someone asked him if he had seen the rat run over his foot. Of course, he replied, but I was doing a take. That's breathtaking professionalism. Hugh Stewart, legend, thanks.

www.hughstewart.com

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SB: When I was a kid I grew up with Mr Potato Head. My mother would give me a potato and I had different plastic parts, eyes, ears, mouth, hands and feet, and you would stick them into the potato to create various bodies. Does that have that have anything to do with the Potato Head Beach Club name?RA: ha, ha...yeah, yeah, I know it. Two or three years ago in Jakarta when we started there, everything had to be modern. Minimalist design, trendy, posh and luxurious...and the name had to be chi-chi, so we wanted to do something industrial and very different. My partner and I are collectors, and so we wanted to bring that out from our collections.Is that where the idea came from for the shutters that adorn the facade of

the club?Yes, basically.How many shutters are there?Ten thousand. We chose only the teak pieces. Back in the day the Dutch colony only used this kind of wood. They don’t make them like this anymore.So these shutters are all original?Yes. It took us about eight months to find them.Wow, that’s some undertaking. That’s a story in itself.Yeah, from Sulawesi, Kalimantan and Sumatra...all over.Who would do that? You have to be nuts! The time alone, I’ve never known anyone to go to that length. I tip my hat to you. When you say 'we', how many people are involved in Potato Head?

We love Potatohead because it's different. Salvador Bali spoke to PH primo Ronald Akili.

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Myself and my partner, Jason gunawan. he collects motorcycles and vintage cars and I collect art, so it all began with the two of us opening up an art gallery about five years ago in Jakarta. We represented a lot of Indonesian artists who are now, I am proud to say, being collected. My wife Sandra, who is a chef, wanted to do her own restaurant. When it came to naming the place, my partner and I had this joke...we've always called each other potato head. I have to admit on first meeting you I was surprised to see how young you are for such an undertaking. Some personal background please.Aged 30, married, born and raised in Jakarta until the age of 12 years old, then moved to hawaii for 10 years and did an internship there. Moved back to Jakarta, did an internship at my family business, which is in the travel industry, then ventured into my own company, designing housing, and then opened an art gallery, which was my hobby. My first business was actually property. So with that I’m designing houses now, developing occupancies. I enjoy being different; we now have a compound

where each house is designed in a different style. We wanted to promote Indonesian architects, so we took the best nine we knew and asked them to build 20 houses. It's the first housing project of this nature.Are you planning to do that here in Bali as well?We're building a hotel right behind Potato head.Why Bali?Bali for me is my second home. I’ve been coming here forever and I wanted to do something here and move out of Jakarta.What are the future plans for the club?Something fresh and different, firstly as a beach club. We want to venture outside other cuisines, so three restaurants will be opening up here. One will be only live seafood, authentic, then Asian food and upstairs french fine dining from the perspective of this amazing Japanese chef. We want to promote a lot of art, music and fashion events. The art will be sponsored by my father, who is very much into that. So it will be top shelf all the way. he developed an art museum for students in Jakarta, you may have heard of it. We want to be inspired

Left: 10,000 shutters and eight months seaching for them. Right: There's other cool stuff there too.

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More spudishness. Vive la difference.

and not copy. Our road is very much into design and music; the music and entertainment will be alluring.Are you bringing in big names?for sure, and by this summer, big acts will be coming, plus fashion and art sites. Also we’re working with a theater school abroad to actually do theater by the sea. The stage will be set behind the swimming pool and there will be a picnic ground area. In terms of music, besides D.J.’s, we're bringing in for the month of May the real underground jazz men from New Orleans.It’s about time, good on you. What problems have you come across in Bali and what would you like to see changed?The infrastructure, but that’s personal. Indonesia is still a developing country

and it’s not set-up like the Western world, but slowly things are getting better. The setback for us in the industry is the hassle with imported products. Right now there's a new rule that all imported food has to be inspected. I can’t get chopped liver anymore! And then there's the alcohol! Wow, New York prices.Cutting off their nose to spite their face, so to speak.Exactly, so that’s what we have to get around in order to compete with the rest of the world. We need support, it’s hard to get good quality product.What’s you’re philosophy on life?I think in life you always have to be original and fresh. We only live our life once and there’s no point doing what others have already done.Ronald, thanks for your time.

Photography: D.HumpWords: J.Z.

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School's out.

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Spaceship snow.

TRAVELS to far away lands with a foreign tongue and taste have always been an enticing way for me to clear my head. Adventure brings a new perspective to where I come from, where I am, and where I want to go in life. The decision to travel to Japan was an easy one; such a complex combination of ancient culture and futuristic technologies has captivated my imagination for years. Opportunity knocked and I ran at it, full bore. Parking my 9-5 with a nod from the boss, packing the essentials, my snowboard, surfboard, boardies, t-shirt, jacket, pants and a tooth brush, I booked and boarded the first flight I could bound for the land of the rising sun. Landing on planet Japan…The air was cold and dry, the streets were

filled with tall buildings and bustling people, determination permeated each step. The salary men all dressed like they were going in for an interview for the big job and the women dressed in unseasonably small skirts. I watched and wondered if they even realized the air was so cold they could see their own breath. Human trains chugging to and fro. I was finally here and I was already loving it.

Amami dreams…I awoke with itchy feet so after just one

night in the city of neon I caught a small plane southbound to the Amami Islands. The climate here is tropical year round and the waters inviting with possibilities of great surf. I rented a small car, slapped my surfboard on the roof, my pack in the back and set off. If I had doubts about my rental car’s ability to ferry me around the island I didn’t show it, sure it creaked, and groaned, bumped and screeched, but there was no turning back now, I was a man on a mission. With nothing booked and a little less planned, I drove on with only the hearsay of good surf on the southern side of the island as my guide, the direction in which I now pointed my little car.

Bursting around a bend I spied a crumbling left-hander two bends further along. It didn’t look amazing from the shore but the combination of the anxiety

my chariot instilled, the excitement of surfing an exotic location and a sun on its final descent behind the small village behind me, took hold. I pulled up, jumped out, and began assembling my board, adding leash, and fins. I stood out like a sore thumb and started to attract a crowd of local fisherman and kids. Our conversation consisted of body movements and hand gestures, mainly mine, showing them where I wanted to go and what I wanted to do, they were a rapt audience. My movements on the beach were not too dissimilar to surf instructors around the world, I only hoped I would be able to perform what I had been demonstrating.

The waves were fun and I was able to catch a bunch of them without a single other surfer out in the lineup. It was just what I needed. Splashing onto the beach I was greeted by a couple of the more vivacious local kids who seemed to have nothing more important to do than grade my performance. It was getting dark, I needed to find somewhere to stay. Again hand gestures did the talking. I knew I couldn’t sleep in the car – I folded myself in and out every time I drove. The exchange bore fruit and they led me into the heart of the little village and into a traditional small home stay. Stowing my stuff in the room I realized I was exhausted. I ate with the family and drank a couple of beers while gesturing to this new audience, but all this talking was making me tired and in retrospect not too different than being with mates and playing charades.

The next day I awoke, fueled up on a bowl of noodles, fish and eggs and after bidding my hosts farewell, headed off to continue my surf excursion of the island. I bounced from southeast tip to north west point searching and surfing, three stops, great waves, good people, more charades and an amazing time. Dusk was coming down when I finally pulled my tin can into the airport car park, cutting my escape from the islands a little close for comfort.

Harajuku Girls…With the surfing out of the way I was keen to indulge

some of my other passions: fashion, technology, style, and flavors. After a big night’s sleep followed by a slow breakfast I brushed my teeth and sought directions to the closest train station. At first the subway map looked like nothing more than a colorful bowl of noodles garnished with strange characters, I learnt later they were called Kanji. The train system did my head in at first, but once I got the hang of it traveling by train

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Bulletmist.

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Old school.

Retro cool.

Kids Rock.

Surf's Up.

was easy. Trains run on time there, the streets are litter free and the best part of all is that I had a week to just ride and explore the oodles of squiggly lines that connect every corner of the city, all the nooks and crannies. It was on one of those rides that I got into a conversation with some locals, who wanted to practice their English. They told me that Harajuku and Shabuya were the bleeding edge of fashion and the Japanese rag trade. Off I went. To say that there is a strong influence

from the vintage American culture would be an understatement, I went to a plethora of great shops, like OMNIGOD in Daikanyama and Junky Special in Shinjuku, definitely keeping the classic motorcycle fashion alive. I scored a leather jacket that James Dean would have been proud to own and bought a canvas leather bag that looks like it’s from WWII. One of the most interesting shops I stumbled upon

was Erostika in Harajuku. It’s the headquarters and official shop of the Rockin’ Jelly Bean, this crazy Japanese artist. The artwork of Rockin’ Jelly Bean reminded me of a mix of Robert Crumb’s artwork, anime and Vargas-style pin up girls. If I had to define it in two words I would have to say it’s “happy sexy” – it’s all imagery of Rubenesque girls in poses that would make my mother blush. I couldn’t leave the shop without buying a couple of t-shirts.

So here I am walking down the streets of Harajuku wearing my new Rockin’ Jelly Bean T and Jimmy D leather jacket when I catch my first view of a styled Harajuku girl. She is wearing a pink polka dot skirt with matching accessories, from the bow in her hair, to her cell phone case and to the purse she carries it in. Everything fits perfectly. She looks as if she’s climbed out of an animated television show. Amazing. I attempt to talk with her, curious to see if she can point me to some more interesting shops in the area. She hands me a card out of her purse for a shop called Phenomenon. I snapped a couple of pictures of this accessorized wonder girl holding up

double peace signs, we waved goodbye and I hailed a cab and handed the card to the driver.I lucked in and showed up on a good night,

their new line release party was already well

underway. Everyone at the party was dressed in different fashion styles and I was glad to be wearing my new T and leather jacket. Phenomenon is definitely at the cutting edge of Japanese fashion. Shop stock highlights included a new blazer that had an inflatable collar and the raincoat that comes with a water squirt-gun to match. Very necessary stuff! Vintage toys and a large collection of eclectic memorabilia lined the walls, giving the place a feeling of the past while presenting a clothing range that looked like it was from the future.

After a couple of complimentary mint beers topped off an extra long day of train riding and shopping I was ready to head back to my hotel. It took me twenty minutes on my new favorite form of transport to reach my oasis, the Four Seasons, just in time for the free flow happy hour. I found a pew next to the window overlooking the downtown business capital of Tokyo. Sitting, sipping and looking out upon this urban wonderland.

I’d heard whispers there existed a train that could take one from the heart of this city to the ski slopes and back all in a day. So next morning I woke and decided that today was the day to test the theory. I looked at my phone – it was just before noon and I knew I was making a late call.

Yet it had to be done. I located a bullet train heading for Gala Yuzala and two hours and 300 kilometres later I was standing at the top of a beautifully groomed slope about to snowboard some freshly fallen powder. By nightfall my legs had the same consistency as well-jiggled jelly, but no matter. There was one run I couldn't resist, even though I knew it would mean pain later – a straight 2.4 km run. The lifts closed with the light and I made my way to the station and consulted the train schedule for my ride home. The next train was at 6:30 pm which left me time for a nice cold Asahi beer in the adjacent lodge. By 8pm I was sitting down to sushi back in Tokyo.

Too much luck was bound to come unstuck. Arriving back to the hotel I bopped across the reception area to the concierge to get my room key. Unfortunately he also handed me a message. It was from the boss. Needed back in the tropics, my ticket was booked later that night.

With special thanks to the Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi, currently our favourite property in the entire world. Check it out at www.fourseasons.com/marunouchi/

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p h o t o g r a p h e r : d . h u M pa r t i s t : a n t o n i o M u n o zs t y l i s t : d i a zh a i r & M a k e u : a n j aM o d e l : a n n a / l v d k :

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Maru is a high-quality Japanese bag designer who grew up around leather and loves football...go figure.

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MARU, where are you from?I am from himeji-city, hyogo, in Japan. himeji city is known as the capital of leather tanning and crafts and enjoys a reputation as one of the leading producers of leather in the world. They’ve been tanning leather there since four hundred years before the birth of Christ. That is where I grew up.What have you done in your life, and how did you end up in Bali?I came here to rehabilitate after a knee operation. I used to work in the football industry for a long time as a coordinator, interpreter and referee. Then I worked for ESPN Japan, made a travel movie in Central and South America in the run-up to the World Cup in Japan in 2002. I started working as a photographer’s assistant to learn still photography. After that, I worked as freelance journalist, film maker and photographer all over the world. And then I worked for a leather accessory designer as an assistant in Bali.Now you're making high-quality leather bags. Talk us through that...I firmly believe we are living in a second Renaissance period, and I want to create goods to fit that. firstly I found out what I wanted for myself, then what I wanted to make, what I wanted to produce. Then I started my own line of leather accessories, which was supported by my friends. I had experience in working with leather, and I learned many things from the people who produce the leather and goods in my hometown. We need bags for our lives, they are our own portable spaces. It’s very nice to have a tough

one, and it can also give people the feeling of Japan. having seen the world, I now appreciate and love the traditional culture of my home country. I am proud to introduce our culture to this flat world.Are you designing all your bags?Yes.Where are they made?In my studio in Bali.Where can we buy them?Simple Koncep Store sKs in Bali, or The goods Dept in Jakarta.Are you exporting?Yes, I'm exporting to Barcelona, Perth and hong Kong at the moment.Who's your favourite designer, and why?My favorite designer is Issey Miyake, because he is an innovator. he is also a person who survived the nuclear bomb dropped on hiroshima on August 6, 1945. he knew creation more than destruction, and peace.What do you do when you're not designing bags?Surfing and football, cooking, reading books, writing my diary, researching history, and contemplating.How would we spot a Maru bag, as opposed to say any other brand in Bali? What's your point of difference?My bags are guided by the concepts of simpledesign that incorporate function and quality. And I love to think that Japanese quality is the sense of value for a culture of sensitivity on tradition.

www.katsunoriueda.com

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Ian Macauly and Jon Stonham bring together years of experience to form Marketing VIllas Limited, an online luxury villa outfit with a pedigree to match. Say goodbye to five dollar Cokes in the hotel mini bar...

IAN, we know you well through your involvement with Elite Havens and Bali over the years. How the hell are you?I.M: I like the fact I am part of the furniture…I’m very good…thanks for taking the time for a chat.Jon, tell us a little about your background. J.S: I was a surprise entrant into the travel sector. When I was based in hong Kong in the early '90s, two bad holiday experiences led me to co-found with a friend an opinionated website, grading hotels across the region called asiahotels.com. It grew into quite a sizable venture which we sold to a large international travel concern in 2005. I’ve always seen myself as a consumer advocate. I started a firm in 2008 called Private homes and Villas, a firm in which every villa

listed in the three countries we cover has been personally inspected and reviewed in detail by one of our team members. Apart from that I am married and have two kids and before you ask, no I won’t tell you my star sign…We guess a Virgo. Jon, when did you first meet Ian? I was introduced by villa-owning friends of mine who are also clients of the Elite havens group. They saw some good synergies in what we were both doing. Ian and I have been talking on and off for 18 months about the industry, what it was capable of and then more and more – what work we were duplicating, and a new company was born.So tell us how this new villa marketing company

came about. What's the story?J.S: Ian pioneered many of the marketing techniques used by villas today. Elite havens' ability to build a brand and fill a villa is superb, there’s a large loyal client base…one that has large expectations. But it’s not one we are scared of. We match all that with our technological capabilities, our credibility in the mainstream accommodation industry and it makes for an interesting opportunity. The end result? Our new firm is called Marketing Villas limited, which is a joint venture between my company and the Elite havens group’s distribution and rental divisions and it opened last month.I.M: The sum of the parts was an extraordinary opportunity. The ability for Elite havens to partner

Ian Macauly and right, Jon Stonham.

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with people who possess a nuanced view of the market, are intelligent and ethical, and to expand on a regional scale, was something of an irresistible offer.Why a marketing company that focuses on villas? We thought the big business was in booking hotel rooms...I.M: Do people still stay in hotels? But seriously… life is about doing what you know and hopefully doing what you love; villas are both of those for me. Tropical serviced villas represent a very interesting and growing global niche market, with its own set of specific needs which begs to be serviced properly.J.S: like many things in the world today, the travel market is moving from ‘mass’ to ‘me’ – even the hotels have noticed. You may have seen a few new villa resorts. ultimately the villa market is a tiny proportion of the accommodation market, but it is a growing one and a fun one. The changing scene of Canggu and Seminyak is a very visual demonstration, albeit not always an attractive one, of how the sector is mushrooming.How will your organisation help villa owners here?J.S: People are often reluctant to cross from resorts to villas – the risks are too high, the research required too time consuming. By marketing well, we can help ease some of the concerns and convert a growing number to villa enthusiasts (few ever go back). good marketing is showcasing the great product we have to the widest audience in a cost effective manner. Scale and technology help.I.M: It will fill villas to their highest capacity possible in the market. I note this is not a deus ex machina solution, villa owners still need to ensure their villas and staffing are of the highest caliber, especially with the growing competition out there. At the end of the day it all boils down to the product, the client’s guest experience. The world’s best distribution can only do so much with average product.No more latin please. How will you market the villas, specifically? How does it work?I.M: The answer is constantly changing. from my perspective I’ve been marketing and filling villas for 11 years, every year the market is different, every year you find new ways to interact with consumers and create market awareness. We’re blessed in that the media finds villas interesting…what’s not to love? And often write stories about the villa experience.J.S: Integrated marketing and distribution involves multiple channels, there are lots of people involved, such as travel agents, direct clients, event organizers, then we take that across multiple geographic markets using multiple tools. The tools we have available are numerous, they range from public relations – Ian is

right, this is a sexy subject, to the web the ultimate enabler, to attending some of the top luxury travel events to showcase our portfolio. Individual villas could not do all this; with our carefully chosen catalogue we have economies of scale.How about those villa owners who are still not there with the licensing and paperwork...can you help?I.M: We’re not in the licensing business, but we can certainly counsel them to do what we’ve seen other owners do and encourage them to get fully legal. It’s in our best interests to have villas legal and we do all we can to facilitate that.let's talk a bit about the guest. What's the benefit of staying in a villa, do you think, compared to let's say, a suite at a brand name hotel?I.M: It’s all about the guest. Some of the various benefits are privacy, control over your environment, ability to entertain, but I think the primary advantage is uniqueness of experience. Most of our clients have, and do, spend a lot of time in brand name hotels owing to work patterns; a private villa gives them a complete change of pace.J.S: let’s not forget the value for money part of this equation, which works with friends but really works when you are traveling with family. The majority of our villas fall into a couple of hundred dollars per bedroom per night. There’s no five dollar coca-cola for the children to take from the mini-bar, there’s always a private pool, and there are dedicated staff – it's one of the most unique, and pleasant, travel experiences out there.What are the challenges specific to villa stays with regards to guest expectations? J.S: It goes without saying – every villa is different. That is the great thing about the market but also one of the challenges. There is so much variation in the offerings of villas. One has to be careful in expressing what features makes up a given villa and ensuring the guest understands what they are getting. One also has to be sure the guest understands the differences between a villa and a resort – for example food is served family style as you would eat at home, not with each guest selecting a different item off a menu as in a restaurant. How do you manage those challenges?J.S: Provision of information to the clients. Our villas are extensively photographed, have floor plans – some with pictures embedded in them, virtual reality tours, and every aspect of the villa is documented. Our team and websites don’t just tell you what a given villa has, but can tell you exactly the layout and the facilities of every room inside the villa.

I.M: It's turning into a whole new world these days - want to know when the villa is occupied, and more importantly when it’s free? Just go online. What’s fantastic about the software that Jon has been developing for the last couple of years is its ability to automate so much of the day-to-day aspects of the business, which in turn frees up the team to deal with guests’ personal requests. To what extent do you take care of the guest while they are here?J.S: As much as possible. A guest has two resources to draw upon during their stay, the villa and its attached staff, and our team. The villa provides all the onsite care with us to provide that next level of service and awareness. We are also there to help with emergencies. I.M: After 11 years in the industry, I can say with confidence that we are there whenever guests need us, and help however we can.How does it work with the moolah? Does the guest pay you prior to arriving here, then you pay the villa owner, that type of thing?I.M: With the villa business, it basically all works in advance owing to the fact that with any given villa, one can’t give the space to one group and refuse others, and then run the risk that the booked group changes its mind and cancels on the villa. That means that owners, who have committed to providing their house to a given set of clients would be substantially disadvantaged as its tough to book a multi-room villa last minute, thus the norm is 50% deposit at time of booking and 50% balance six to eight weeks in advance of arrival.Is this new venture specific to Bali, or are you looking further afield at other countries?J.S: In its current inception, Marketing Villas covers four key markets: Bali, lombok, Phuket and Sri lanka. There is enough here to keep us busy for some time to come.I.M: Bali has far and away the most developed rental and management market in the region; what we’re trying to do is export some of the common market practices that address issues faced by the three main participants in the villa market – villa owners, rental clients, and agents – so that all can benefit.It all sounds very slick. We wish you luck

Photo shot at Villa Puribawana (www.puribawana.com).

SOME background if you please...francois xavier hoffner, age 25, born in a small town very close to Paris, studied in Paris for five years, then to universidad Politecina de Catalunya Barcelona for another extended year where I acquired my masters degree in renewable energy. Started working over there for my master’s degree, which was my final project.At what age did you start?I was addicted at an early age, 17; I went to boarding school at 12, where I learned a sense of friendship, self reliance and independence. I saw a famous movie (“l’auberge espagnole”), it was like my calling card, it was me, discovering and traveling, and so that was the turning point.Organic solar cells, would you elaborate on that?It’s some kind of futuristic solution for green energy, hopefully within 20 years we can make a very cheap solar balance. Right now I am working on snake skin, it detracts light and when you detract light you can expect to gather more light.You worked in Senegal, North Africa, and as I know that certain villages have never seen the light, electrical wise. What was that like?There is electricity, but many villages have

ever seen it, you’re right. I was on a big project with my team where we distributed the current, it was very special. Many people came to us to play instruments and to bless us, just to get a light in front of their door. It was quite amazing.Where to from there?Almost directly to Bali. Before that I worked at Club Med, more electric work, I met Sue Kil and Carlo ferzinetti from delighting, we got along well together and here I am.What does the delighting company consist of?It’s changing now since I joined. They have been lamp manufacturers for the last 12 years, lighting consultants for hotels and villas and what have you, and working closely with interior architects, landscaping, lighting.Where does ‘balancing of consumption’ come in?That’s my part. The thinking now is that there is a good opportunity for making electrical installations for green energy. So we are now focusing on energy saving. How do you see the electric world here, problem wise? The main problem is that local contractors really don’t have a standard that I’m used to, so when you take an already built installation and you have to renew it, it’s very difficult

because it’s not up to standard. So when the problem occurs, it’s really hard to fix.How far reaching is delighting?International. half of our market is in Bali, the rest is all over the world. I’m sending big lights to Moscow right now, so we’re manufacturing and exporting all over the world. What does you’re job over all consist of?When I first came here, I was under internship as a technical advisor. Now I am managing lamp production and also creating a branch of electrical installations focused on energy conservation and renewable energy. So it comes down to finding the best solution for energy and cost savings.What are the future plans for Bali?My special target is a hotel on Renon beach which does not have access to the grid, so we have to build a renewable generator infrastructure using wind and solar energy; some other projects in lombok and maybe flores.How long have you been here in Bali?Six months now.Advice ?light up you’re life!

www.de-lighting.com

Francois Xavier Hoffner is the new generation of deLighting Green.

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Green machine: Francois, deLighting.

James Ephraim loves a good sandwich, cooked for the British royal family and is now chef de cuisine at Mozaic in Bali.

JAMES, how did you become a chef?I suppose you could say I fell into it. I was 15 years old and not sure what I wanted to do, then I got placed into a five-star hotel for work experience from school. After the second week I knew that I wanted to follow a career in hospitality. I started working there after school and every weekend, there was a buzz in the kitchen that I never got from school…I think that was the initial attraction to kitchen life.What was the first thing you had to do in a kitchen?I don’t remember the very first thing I had to do. I remember starting in the pastry kitchen, weighing recipes for the pastry chef and working directly with lots of die-hards. When I saw the passion and commitment they had for their work each day I instantly had a newfound respect for the profession.Where did you work at that time?My first position was at a chain of three luxury hotels called St David’s, and Carden Park. The exec chef, graham Tinsley, was the head of the Welsh culinary team, so all the kitchen team used to participate in competitions based all over the uK. After six months I was put in charge of the garnish section…which at that age was intense. I remember I had all garnishes for 80 fine dining covers, plus a brasserie of 120 for lunch and dinner every day, functions up to 300 and room service. I remember thinking if that didn’t break me I just might make it as a chef.Were there any women in your first kitchen?In the first kitchen I worked in there was probably 20 women in the brigade. At The grosvenor hotel, where I moved later, there were 34 guys and one girl. She was stronger than most of the lads. She was six foot tall, red hair and Irish.Did you have any early disasters? How did you overcome them?loads. Any chef that says they haven’t made mistakes hasn’t worked in a busy kitchen. I overcame them I suppose with determination. It helped that there was always another lunatic standing the other side of the stove shouting at me. Who were you cooking for back in the day?I used to mostly cook for my mum and brothers. After

that it was Pavarotti, the Duke of Westminster, various members of the royal family, movie stars, singers…the full spectrum. It’s funny when you become a chef your whole family become intimidated when they are cooking for you, when in all honesty most chefs are happy with a good sandwich.You worked at the Grosvenor Hotel, one of the best kitchens in England, how did that come about?I’d just finished my apprenticeship and I was keen to see something new. One of my friends was already working there, so I arrived at the kitchen door and asked to speak to the executive chef Simon Radley. I told him I wanted to work for him and with some good comments from my mate Danny he took me on. My first weekend I landed Simon on the pass and me alone on the sauce section…that was probably the most intense service I ever cooked. I think working there really gave me a strong backing for working anywhere else. It was like an army, 35 chefs working from 8am till midnight. I loved it.What was an average day like in that kitchen?• 7am: helping the breakfast chef knock out breakfast.• 8am: coffee/bacon sandwiches and weighing up the prep list with the brigade.• 8am-11.30am: solid prep. • 11.30-noon: set up the pass for lunch service, write the specials of the day.• Noon-3pm: usually 120 covers for lunch.• 3pm-4pm: into the banquet kitchen to give the boys a hand with the function prep (we rarely went home on a split shift).• 4pm-5.30pm: prep and set up for dinner service.• 5.30pm: dinner with the team.• 6pm-11pm: intense dinner service (imagine cooking army style, but swapping the guns for sauté pans and you’ve got it).• 11pm: prep lists for the next day, clean the kitchen from top to bottom.• Midnight: drinks with the boys.Did you meet the owner, the Duke of Westminster? What was he like?I used to have to cook huge private dinners and events in his properties all over the uK. It was so much

fun, unlimited budget on food costs, just the best of everything available. I remember him being a really cool guy, and very down to earth. he used to bring us crates of cold beers after the events.How long did you stay at The Grosvenor, and when did you decide to move on?I stayed at The grosvenor until I got awarded sous chef, that was on my third year and I was 21 years of age. After those three years I decided I wanted to see some of the world, so I applied for a visa to Thailand and Australia and never looked back.Where did you go after that?Thailand and Australia. Then I met up with chef Philip Reynolds in New Zealand. he'd been chef at harrods and Escargot. I became his pastry chef. At that time I remember doing three jobs. I’d work in a Casino from 6am until 2pm in the banquet kitchens, then at 2pm I’d start my pastry with Philip and then at 6pm I’d be on the meat/fish section as his sous chef. long days, especially with some nightclubs thrown in after service.What did you learn on your travels?I started working with amazing Asian products which just weren’t available in the uK. Plus I was placed well out of my comfort zone; I worked in all sorts of kitchens. When I first got to Australia I did a little temp chefing for agencies, which had its ups and downs. On the plus side I was in a new kitchen with a new team every day, doing events like as f1 and flemington races.How did you arrive in Bali?I had quite a few offers at that time, so I flew to each place and did a trial (cooked for the owners) Singapore, Maldives, Malaysia and Bali. for me Bali had what I wanted. great restaurant, cool place to live, something different.What's the best thing about working at Mozaic?for me I love the freedom of daily changing menus, using top ingredients and also binding that together with some local flavours. We have a team of 84 staff who love learning new things. It’s a different approach to Europe and I like it.What's the most important item in your toolkit as a chef?My resumé. Experience goes a long way.

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James Ephraim.

Diana Darling sample

s bali's raw fooD re

volution.

TO those of us whose idea of a nice dinner is a giant martini and a very

good cigar, it’s not immediately obvious why anyone would go to a

restaurant to eat raw food.

“Raw food? The markets are full of it,” you might say. “And so is my

refrigerator.”

Of course there is a venerable french tradition of crudités, and

we’ve all heard of salad.

But we’re talking here of the raw food movement, also known as

‘raw foodism’ (or the less felicitous ‘rawism’). The basic idea is not to

kill the digestive enzymes that occur naturally in food, which is what

happens over 48°C / 118°f. (Techniques such as dehydration allow

grains to approximate baked foods.) One result of eating raw food is

that you consume less to obtain the same amount of nutrition. There

is an ongoing debate about exactly how good this is for you. But what

interests us are two questions: Is it yummy? And will it make you a

better person?

Glow

To answer these questions, The Yak decided to investigate two

restaurants in Bali that specialise in raw food. The first stop was glow

at the COMO Shambhala Estate, a holistic spa resort north of ubud.

This is a principal location for anything luxuriously good for you, and

we were there to attend the book launch of Diana von Cranach’s

Rawfully Good: ‘Living’ Flavours of Southeast Asia. It includes raw food

recipes which she developed with COMO Shambhala chefs Chris

Miller and Dewa Putra Wijaya, and an assortment of recipes from

top restaurants or resorts in Bali, Malaysia, Thailand, laos, Cambodia,

Vietnam, Singapore, and Myanmar, which she devised in collaboration

with chefs there using raw local ingredients. A quotation from the

introduction makes a point worth citing:

"foods that have ripened and been brought to a state of maturity

by nature cannot consistently be called ‘raw’. […] These things are

finished, ready for use; they are perfect, they are not raw, they are

done; and when they are cooked they are undone."

– Uncooked Foods & How to Use Them, Eugene Christian, New York,

1924.

The book launch was celebrated with a 10-course raw-food

tasting dinner featuring the dishes in the COMO Shambhala chapter

of recipes. Dinner began with a bright, rather sweet Palm heart &

pineapple soup with dill and torch ginger; Vietnamese daikon parcels

with a red chilli dressing; a plate of three salads: Asinan Javanese fruit

& vegetable salad; Tropical mango salad, and lao herb salad followed

by a surprisingly rich Black rice sorbet with all the good flavour of rice

intact. The main course was another triple offering: Spinach, cashew &

coconut balls with peanut sauce & lemongrass sambal; Balinese pure

green urab vegetables with coconut; and Malaysian peranakan red

curry rice.

Throughout, the food scintillated with the freshness of mint, Thai

basil, coriander, with the surprise of flowers, Southeast Asian roots

spices, a trace of chillies and the tang of lime leaves and tamarind.

This was raw food at a high level of gourmandise. Nonetheless, even

after a dessert of Coconut & vanilla pudding with passionfruit jelly &

strawberries, we overheard more than one murmur about “going on

for ribs afterwards”.

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Como Shambhala Estate.

COMO Shambhala Estate.

Fivelements.

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To be fair, this was a showcase of the von Cranach-COMO Shambhala Estate recipes, not an

example of how ordinary human beings might construct a raw-food menu. These are recipes to

adorn a meal plan that is more substantial, as indeed Diana von Cranach advises in the introduction

to her book. To illustrate the point, Amanda gale, the group Executive Chef for COMO hotels &

Resorts, brought us the glow menu to show that it includes fish, Wagyu beef, and rack of lamb. But

glow also has a popular completely raw food menu for lunch and dinner: among its imaginative

appetisers are Jicama, pine nut & shiitake maki roll with wasabi tofu and Tomato tartar with papaya

relish in almond milk. One would also be tempted by main dishes such as the green curry of young

coconut, mango, green beans, baby corn & sweet basil and the Zucchini & carrot fettuccini with

sauce al freda and by a dessert of lime & avocado tart with coconut & mixed nut crust or perhaps

Tropical fruit & mint salad, lemongrass granita.

Amanda, who has been with the COMO hotel group since 2000 when she founded COMO

Shambhala Cuisine and who has worked with the esteemed raw foodist Jill Pettijohn, says that the

real key to healthy eating is moderation, and that her “number one concern” is the quality of the

produce. This “determines the flavour, texture, colour and essentially what you can do with it.” When

the quality is high, she says, “very little needs to be done. It can speak for itself.” Anyone who nibbled

from the vines of his own organic garden will attest to that. Amanda says “we use a lot of the

healthier nuts, seeds, grains, sea vegetables and dried fruits, as well as organic oils, flax seed oil, raw

cider vinegars, raw honey, natural seasonings, wheat free soy, fresh coconut and live sea salt. I try to

source chemical free or organically grown produce with as little to no processing as possible.”

This is partly why ‘living’ cuisine is expensive. It is also labour-intensive, and to bring raw food to

a gourmet standard of presentation with a good balance of colour, texture, nutrition, and flavours

requires considerable talent, knowledge, and skill.

Fivelements.

Fivelements

At fivelements Puri Ahimsa, a new healing centre near ubud,

they have developed a more-than-50%-raw vegan cuisine

based on fruits, vegetables, nuts, seeds, grains, seaweed, and

fresh juices. And yet, for all its high-mindedness, its high fine-

dining quality makes it worth the trip for lunch or dinner at

their Sakti Dining Room, no matter what one’s private feelings

are about, say, fire rituals or chanting. This is wonderful food,

and it leaves you feeling light, energetic, fulfilled, mentally

sharp and physically clean.

The dining room and kitchen are housed in a soaring

bamboo and thatch building where the ambient light is

serene and the tables are elegantly set. The kitchen itself is

a beautiful modern space which you can see into through

floor-to-ceiling glass walls, and it is presided over by I Madé

Runatha. When Chef Runatha joined fivelements, he had

worked for decades in international hotels. fivelements

founders lahra and Chicco Tatriele arranged for him to do a

three-month course at the living light Culinary Arts Institute

in California (the Oxford university of raw culinary arts), where

he became the world’s first Balinese certified raw vegan

gourmet chef. his approach cites familiar European and Asian

cuisines and translates their flavours and textures with ‘living’

ingredients. (‘living’ is the fashionable, somewhat breathless,

but much nicer term for ‘raw’.) like that of glow, much of

the richness of his cuisine comes from ‘cheeses’ and ‘creams’

made of ground almonds, cashews or pine-nuts, and the

presentation is modern and stylish.

The other day at lunch we began with a shot glass of

home-grown wheatgrass: an intense experience of the power

of the plant world and absolutely delicious, served with a

thick slice of orange as a chaser. Chef Runatha prepared

a special menu for us that began with Kale & sunflower

crackers with a Carrot curry dip. Then came Shitake and

white button mushrooms marinated in organic tamari and

herbs, speared by a live carrot stick set on caramelized honey

balsamic, followed by a Beetroot fantasy: half a baby beetroot

with pistachio pâté and almond feta cheese in a balsamic

reduction. Although the beetroot was a bit hard to cut, its

wonderful fresh earthy flavour was beautifully delivered.

The main course was a substantial and lively living lasagna:

layers of very finely-sliced zucchini in marinara sauce with

basil pesto, almond feta cheese, baby beetroot leaf, sun-dried

tomatoes, and a creamy béchamel herb sauce. Dessert was

a delightful Pumpkin & pistachio pudding rolled in a banana

cashew wrap, served with a paper-thin pine nut wafer with

blueberry coulis and big blueberries. There is an inspired menu

of beverages with their own custom-blended tea collection for

each of the five elements (earth, wind, air, water, fire). I chose

the very aromatic and warming Teja (fire) tea, composed of

cinnamon, ginger, pepper and cloves.

Do it yourself

Diana van Cranach is remarkably level-headed for a food

activist. In her book she warns that “a purely ‘living’ food diet

is not recommended for everyone and in some cases can be

dangerous, so every individual has to experiment and find out

what feels comfortable.” She recommends an easily achievable

ratio of 30% raw to 70% cooked food. She warns that raw

food cuisine requires more time and effort to source the best

possible ingredients; that there is some extra expense if one

invests in, say, a dehydrator, and that extra care must be taken

in preparation. And she advises one to be “passionate but

never fanatical” in this adventure.

One very easy raw food recipe (which I confess we use at

home) came to us by way of the ubud Sari health resort. This

dressing will turn anything into a cheeseburger.

Raw Sesame Seed & Dill Dressing

grind a half a cup of raw sesame seeds with a teaspoon of

sea salt and a cup of fresh dill in a mortar and pestle to make

a coarse paste. Transfer to a bowl and stir in a tablespoon

or so of extra-virgin olive oil. Especially recommended over

tomatoes or salt-wilted, coarsely grated ‘live’ carrots.

Our conclusions, then, about raw food: Is it yummy? It

depends on the effort you put into it. Will it make you a better

person? Definitely.

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Fish – it's a serious business at Sardine, one of Seminyak's most charming restaurants where the seafood is handpicked daily by owner Pascal Chevillot.

fish face

Green cuisine – the backyard at Sardine. Right: all eyes on the superb interior design.

fish face

UP in the morning and out to school, the teacher is teaching the golden rule. We sent Salvador Bali on an upfront fish tour with Pascal Chevillot from restaurant Sardine. He sent us this report. fIRST stop on my tour was a surprise – Jl. Bypass Nusa Dua to Big fish Tuna, we’re talking 50 to 60 kilos, wow, yellow fin tuna destined for sashimi. Onward fish mongers to the Jimabaran fish market, and as we enter the road to the pasar, a beautiful all-white ceremony proceeds to the beach to bless today’s catch. Stepping into the fish market proper, which in itself is a visual experience, we're confronted with rows of tables in a maze that flaunt every kind of seafood imaginable. Pascal does his inspection, slowly covering one table to the next, explaining as he goes what to look for and how to check for quality. Once his rounds are done, he goes back to the tables of seafood and selects what he likes. S.B: Would you say there’s about one hundred tables or more here?P.C: Yes and there’s more on the beach, but you don’t want to shop there.Why is that?The fish have been sitting in the sun. It's better here in the market. look, here we have a Red Snapper, also small Benitos, which is from the same family, and Sea Perch, there’s always a mixture. Most are fresh, but some are bad and you have to be careful, they will sell you whatever they can. In my case I have set up relationships, so it’s not prominent, but it happens, so I also have to be careful.To me they all look good, how do you differentiate?You're looking for red gills, eyes that are very clear with a firmness to the skin.What a messy business!Sometimes when it pours with rain, there’s leaks everywhere. I did one year coming here with shoes; now I wear rubber boots. And I touched one of these overhead lamps and almost fried myself, it gave me the shock of my life.Thanks for telling me that now! look at my

shoe’s, ughhhh, the jokes on me.Regardless of the rain, the show must go on. That’s the restaurant business, so I have to be here everyday.This is interesting. Here we are at one of the tables, you’re weighing and buying this and that and within an arm's length this woman is trying to sell you the same thing at three times the price.One definitely has to wonder.What is the procedure after the buying?At the restaurant, everything is cleaned and vacuum-packed and put on ice so it stays fresh. We never freeze it, that’s because the consistency changes, it breaks the fiber, water comes out, it’s not the same, so all is fresh.How do the prices work here?It’s like the stock market. When there is less, the price goes up. When there’s a big supply, the price comes down. generally the prices are reasonable buying from the market here, fluctuating around 30 percent less than the price from suppliers, plus I get to pick my fish. So today is a normal day and I will buy about 10 different things. There’s a woman in Canggu that waits for the fisherman to come in and she brings me shell fish and shrimp and lobster. Also, if I see something I like, I buy that as well, but usually I have a list. Right now they're filleting the fish, this is not for me, this is Jimbaran fish. How long do you spend here everyday?On an average, one hour a day. I think I’m one of the very few in the business who does this.Are there special fish you don’t see very often?In february to March there’s a deep water crab that comes at that point of the season, we have it on the menu everyday, also Black Bass. What’s the most expensive fish?That would be the Red Snapper, not because it’s the best fish in the market, but because it’s the most popular, again the stock market rules.And the cheapest?(laughter) The Sardine!Pascal is now leading me to the beach stalls of fish, whew; I got the message plain and clear,

what an odour. understand what I mean? get it? good.Now this woman over here has three boxes of fish, would this be the fishermen’s wife?Sometimes they deal with the fisherman and some of the fish are from Bali, some from Java thrown on the night trucks. Oysters and such come from the West on planes; other oysters from lombok and surrounding islands. If there’s bad weather, we’re affected; the fish market is never the same. Sundays are busy because locals come to buy. Where else can you buy fish?Nowhere, just from distributors, this is the only outlet. Maybe Singaraja?let's say you have fish brought from the West?It’s not the same, different texture. I did try. In the beginning, I had to translate everything, now I speak the language and it’s easy to identify each fish. There’s literally a thousand types here and within one family there are 10 different types. You go from this one to that one, different sizes.And as with any family, there’s the good, the bad and the ugly. What’s this here?This is sea locust, from the lobster family. looks like a horse shoe shape, it tastes like lobster. If they were alive I would buy some, but not these.These guys here are looking pretty good filleting these fish, would you say they're up to par with Sushi chefs?Yes they are good. With a bit of training, I can’t see why not. for good luck, the women, when they receive payment for the fish, they sort of slap the tops of the fish with the money. Pretty funny.Ha, what a great way to end the article, thanks for the tour.

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Seafood savoir.

Alila-infused vodka, a Carnival trip with a long-awaited family reunion and katrina Valkenburg says bye-bye to the doldrums.

Vodka Plus at Alila Ubud.

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Alila Ubud's Long Island Iced Tea.

SOMEBODY recently told me that a mutual friend “was in the doldrums”. It’s a funny word, it sounds like it means: a condition of dullness or drowsiness; low spirits, despondency. But it can also mean the condition of a ship which makes no headway or a region of calms, sudden storms, and light unpredictable winds near the Equator.

It brought back memories of an appointment nearly missed in Bahia, north-eastern Brazil. I had travelled there to meet up with my brother who was sailing across the Atlantic from Portugal and we were going to spend an altogether fabulous time at Carnival along with a few other friends.

The estimated time to cross the Atlantic was around three weeks, so prior to my leaving Australia we decided that the first one to arrive would leave a message giving accommodation details. It seemed like a good plan – the American Express Office in Salvador, Bahia.

The day I arrived I duly trotted down to the address given, only to find the office closed, permanently. Oh dear, with no Plan B, what now?

The obvious answer was to get myself a drink to lift me out of my new-found state of the doldrums.The drink of choice in Bahia was a Caipirinha; a cocktail produced using the locally produced Cachaça (a

white spirit made from fermented sugar cane) muddled with fresh lime and sugar. The Caipirinha is a cousin to the Caipiroska (using Vodka to replace the Cachaça) and the Pisco Sour (the Peruvian version made with grape brandy) I needed to get the word grape into a wine story somehow.

With up to 54% alcohol by volume, Cachaça makes one helluva heady drink and my little hotel’s bar was expert in delivering the goods. The major difference being that they infused their Cachaça with lime for a few weeks.

Infused spirits and syrups are a fabulous way of imbuing deep and sometimes complex flavour to innocuous bases and the visuals of bottles lined up on a bar can be quite titillating.

having my own sense of the doldrums from an overly wet Wet Season here in Bali, I was elated to be treated recently to a spectacular afternoon at the Alila ubud that brought back fond memories of Bahia.

Chef Eelke Plasmeijer has used locally grown fruits, herbs and spices to infuse vodka, arak and simple syrups to lift their cocktails and mocktails to another level.

The line up of bottles on the bar was a feast for the eyes: Watermelon balls suspended in vodka; jasmine petals gently floating in a pond of lusciousness; hibiscus flowers dancing in a red sea; lemongrass, star anise, star and snake fruits and cinnamon intermingling with one another; dozens of plump vanilla pods standing like soldiers; tamarind and ginger infused with basil – the list goes on, as do the recipes.

Just watching a barman make cocktails (or mocktails) can be transporting – a little of this, a little of that and voilá, a heart-starting concoction to help say bye-bye to the blues.

The Alila long Island Jasmine Iced Tea is a fabulously refreshing blend of jasmine-infused vodka, cool jasmine tea and lime served in a long glass with buckets of ice; the Tamarind Margherita made with Tequila,

Cointreau, tamarind-infused syrup and orange juice was a completely original take on an old favourite; Watermelon Mojito; hibiscus petal Margherita with ginger and basil; a lemongrass, passionfruit, kaffir lime and soda refresher – all were simply made and inspirational.

But the favourite of the day? The Rambutan Martini, a delicate and subtle cocktail with no sickly syrup to muddle the senses, just pure, unadulterated rambutan…well, let’s not forget that all-important vodka!

having quenched our thirst on around 12 of these little marvels, (thankfully a number of them were mocktails) before sitting down to an exquisite 10-course lunch (with accompanying wines – just what the doctor ordered) prepared by Eelke, the day wore into night before I slid down the hill to Tabanan.

And back we zoom to Bahia to finish my story…I spent nearly four weeks partying hard at Bahia’s version of ’Carnaval’, cavorting with new friends awaiting

my brother. I took a room in the ‘upstairs’ city of Bahia overlooking the harbour and would look out the window each morning to see what boats were coming in. I became quite the expert on depicting single and multi-hulled vessels from afar.

One night, in the baron at the roof of my hotel, I met a Belgian, Joe, and over a few too many Caipirinha’s (and a run in with a Boa Constrictor and an antique dentist’s chair – but that’s another story altogether) he told me that his company looked after all the repairs needed to keep supertankers running continuously (back in 1994, my new friend told me it cost $1 million a day to hold back a tanker’s schedule). Thus, his company could

charge exorbitant fees and everyone was happy.And so it was that on a clear but bleary morning nearly four weeks after my arrival in Bahia, I peered

anxiously out my window and saw what I believed to be a multi-hulled yacht making its way into the harbour. I rang my friend Joe, whose office was in the harbour, and asked him if what we were looking at was indeed

a multi-hulled yacht. I’ll never forget his words that morning as he picked up his binoculars, “sure it looks like a Cat to me”. “Does it look like it’s 39 ft”, I asked? “Sure, it looks like 39 ft” he replied. “Does it have the Irish flag flying?” I enquired tentatively, and to my elation Joe’s reply came: “Yep, it’s got a green, orange and white flag flying –so who’s that dude wearing the hot pink singlet”?

“That’s my brother”, I squealed excitedly. Joe got on the two-way radio and told him that I’d be down in the harbour in 10 minutes.

I quickly dressed and made my way to the elevator that would transport me down the cliff-side to the downstairs city and coerced a local fisherman into rowing me out to their mooring.

It was a miracle to have met Joe and be able to make the appointment my brother and I had made over six weeks before. he was too late for Carnival and I was leaving the very next day but having not seen him in five years, it was a night to lift me out of my doldrums.

Katrina Valkenburg is a wine educator and consultant. All correspondence to katrinav@mac.com

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Rambutan Martini.

Desperately seeking authentic Thai food in Bali. By Katie Truman.

Siam Sally.

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ONCE you’ve visited Thailand and tasted its unique, delicious food, you’ll be on the prowl for the genuine stuff forever after. Whether devoured at a rustic, beach-side shack, Bangkok hawkers stall, or exclusive island resort, Thais never seem to get it wrong. Their universally adored cuisine has a distinctiveness, full-flavoured taste and refinement all of its own. So what’s the secret ingredient of its success?

Thailand’s cuisine has evolved through ancient lanna, Sukhothai, and Ayuttaya Kingdoms, a union of age-old Eastern and Western influences preserved down the generations and joining forces to create something so…Thai. harmony is the main force behind each dish: perfectly balancing sweet, sour, spicy and salty with an equal yin-yang of flavours and textures. At the core lies the finest quality and freshest ingredients; additionally what gives it that distinct Thai taste is fresh native herbs like Thai sweet basil, coriander and chilies.

Cuisine should also be attractive to the nose, palate and eyes – hence emphasis on visual presentation, with a penchant for elaborate garnishing (this especially so for the sophisticated Royal Thai cuisine).

luckily, Bali’s Thai restaurants featured here have, in their own individual way, done a fabulous job of recreating what you’d expect to taste in old Siam (albeit subtly modified to suit our palettes). This, partly due to a passion by chefs to track down authentic, traditional recipes – with some surprisingly different offerings from usual suspects like pad thai – keeping it fresh, updated and incorporating must-have Thai herbs, spices and pastes.

WIlD ORCHIDThE impossibly hip Anantara hotel stands slap-bang on Seminyak beachfront. Thus, views from the lobby level, glass-fronted Wild Orchid is dominated by Seminyak’s pounding surf. And there’s further treats in store from

this signature restaurant, a respectful nod to the Anantara brands’ Thai roots.

Nighttime is primetime for Wild Orchid’s neo-authentic Thai Cuisine; home-style cooking from the north, northeast, central and south and a mix of traditional Thai and contemporary fusion-styled dishes.

Served with exquisite presentation and seamless service, emphasis here is on fresh seafood, like Goong Mankorn Phad Sauce Tua – stir-fried lobster with water chestnuts and peanut sauce. Signatures include the Bangkok chef’s Tasting Platter; its seared scallops with pomelo, duck in rice paper roll and lamb on lemon grass stick making a great starter. Another is Phaa Saam Rot, crispy fried sea bass with three-flavoured sauce and deep-fried kaffir leaves. No noodle dishes here, but curries include Panang Nuea, beef simmered in thick coconut red curry with cumin, roasted chilies and peanut paste. Steamed jasmine rice comes scooped from bamboo baskets.

With refreshing summery elements, Wild Orchid’s new drinks list perfectly compliments dishes: try Bramble, a classic london cocktail, but here, a great Thai accompaniment with gin, lemon, sugar syrup mix, laced with cassis and crème de mure and topped with alcohol-drenched, frozen berries. Or Asian Mandarin, with an unusual, but workable, Asian blend of sweet mandarin, vodka, chili, spring onion and mint leaves.

With understated and chic dining interiors, classic touches include ubitiquous use of royal burgundy, purple and cherry hues (especially for table settings), stately high-backed wooden chairs and fresh orchids, while the candle-lit outdoor deck comes fanned by fresh sea breezes.

Wednesday night “Tastes of Asia” not only features freshly cooked Asian cuisine from live cooking stations at the open kitchen, but additionally, the delightful Thai tradition, Kom loy. Down on the beach, light a paper

lantern for good luck and making wishes, then watch it soar up into the night sky – a perfect end to the evening.www.bali.anantara.com

SIAM SAllYI don’t know who this Siam Sally is, but she’s got great taste, literally. Perhaps it’s her alter ego American chef Karen Waddell, creative force and co-owner behind ubud’s Siam Sally and Bali good food group.

Among numerous Thailand visits, Karen spent several months holed up in Bangkok, intensively learning the art of traditional Thai cuisine from a formidable Chiang Mai grandmother. The results are now at Siam Sally: home-style authentic Thai dishes, with old, traditional recipes all across Siam – from Bangkok market food to southern Muslim curries.

Karen is justifiably proud that the entire menu is her creation, without any input from Thai chefs. “The menu is my greatest hits of Thai dishes,” she enthuses. “All the dishes I want are here and which I think are the best.”

Distinctive flavours and fresh ingredients are the key, with sauces and pastes freshly made to order. Authentic Thai herbs grown on their organic farm – including basil, saw tooth coriander, lemongrass, chilies and galangal – give dishes an authentic edge.

Among many stand-outs are a large selection of vegan dishes: crisp vegetarian rolls and noodles, but additionally, Thai favourites like Som Tam and Tom Khai Gai with vegan choices.

Others are starters of roasted green chili salsa on crisp rice crackers, and summer rolls, with cashews, fresh herbs and tangy soy cilantro dipping sauce.

Mains include ho mok tale, New Zealand mussels, squid, prawns and fish in wild ginger and red curry coconut mousse steamed in banana leaf, and ever-popular jatujak chicken – market-style crispy batter

fried chicken with son tam papaya salad and dipping sauce.

The cocktails are also Karen’s inventions for suitable dish accompaniments, with unique signatures Khun Khao Martini (premium vodka, toasted rice and lemon twist) and The Sally, (fresh honeydew juice, premium vodka, coriander, melon liqueur and basil seeds). Or try tongue-in-cheek Siambuca and Floating Market. A small focused wine list has also been carefully selected to reflect the cuisine and heighten the enjoyment.

All this in a Thai shop house in contemporary, stylish Balinese setting, with courtyard dining plus an upper floor with a distinctive traditional ambience. Don’t miss live jazz on Saturday nights.www.baligoodfood.com/siam-sally

DEUS Ex MACHINAONE wonders why on earth a Thai restaurant would be called ‘Deus Ex Machina’ (‘god from a machine’ in latin), but all is revealed (and then some) upon arrival at this new unique venue near Echo Beach.

Australian-owned, Deus Ex Machina is a destination concept for art, food, music, clothes, surfing and motorbikes – their flagship is in Sydney. Walk through the contemporary Balinese-style showroom, housing Deus-label funky men’s apparel, retro-style surfboards and motorbikes, and you’ll stumble into the stylish, semi-open bar and restaurant.

The main emphasis is traditional Thai food, especially from the south. A Thai chef intensely researched old family recipes in her homeland, some dating back a century. This resulted in the creation of the menu and passing on the know-how to the present chef.

fresh ingredients and produce are sourced daily from local markets, while for utmost authenticity,

Thai basil and chilies are homegrown. highlights are Bangkok delicacy, yum kung takrai, with toasted sea prawns served over fried watercress drizzled with a sensational lime, palm sugar and chili dressing, pad krapow nua, wok-fried sliced beef seared in a sweet soya sauce and spicy Thai basil, and pra padprigking, whole deboned fish fried in home-made chili paste and fish sauce.

Essentially, this is authentic Thai food with a dinner focus, but also available are some Sri lankan and Malaysian specialties, Asian fusion bar snacks and off-the-wall, radical Sushi.

Whatever; wash them all down with sublime signature cocktails, like the Thai basil strawberry roska and lychee lemongrass martini.

Dining options are oversized solid teak tables, comfy sofa corner, wide verandah edged by tropical gardens, or propped up at the chic central square bar. There’s always something going on, like week night DJ’s, but on Sunday nights, there’s foot tapping live music performances – anything from Indo rockabilly to British acoustic. An eclectic crowd is increasingly congregating at this ‘Deus Temple of Enthusiasm’ for the unique vibe, great music, motorbike- surfie culture and of course, yummy Thai food.www.deus.co.id

SARONG DON’T be deceived by Sarong’s Euro-Asian glam, bourgeoisie surrounds: a fusion of funky chandeliers and elegant furnishings with traditional-style open-air pavilions linked by a Zen water feature. for this upscale Kerobokan favourite is noted for its contrasting offerings of Southeast Asian cuisine, described as ‘street culture in a restaurant environment’ – or street food without the ‘street.’

Thai food is predominant, accounting for around a third of this restaurant-bar-lounge menu,

although Indian, Indonesian, Cambodian and Chinese specialties are available. This comes courtesy of Executive Chef and Thai guru, Will Meyrick, brainchild behind Sydney’s renowned long grain and Jimmy liks Thai restaurants. Ever-hungry for authentic, local recipes and traditional methods, Scots-Australian Meyrick repeatedly travels through Thailand and across the region, found on the street or in old ladies kitchens sourcing new ideas. “I’ve a library of chefs, not cookbooks,” declares Meyrick, who organises cuisine cultural exchanges of Asian cooks at Sarong and drafted in his sidekick chef from Thailand’s Koh Samui.

The result is modern Thai for contemporary kitchens and palettes, with original, traditional recipes. This is bold cuisine without compromise, full-on yet balanced with fresh core elements like pastes and coconut milk. Modern interpretations derive from available ingredients sourced in Bali rather than import-reliant; put all together, creating unique twists.

Meyrick considers all dishes as signatures, but try the mouthwatering starter of betel leaf with salmon, shrimp, galangal and coriander, or seared tender scallops with crispy pork belly, accompanied by a wildly piquant dipping sauce. A twist on the traditional Thai pork salad, this still adheres to belly boiled, marinated, hung and deep-fried. The light green curry of snapper, with Thai eggplant and sweet basil drowning in coconut cream, is richly flavoursome and hot, hot, hot – not due to balmy Bali temperatures.

Dishes go splendidly with Asian cocktails created by an Australian mixologist and shaken vigorously behind Sarong’s long slinky bar – gems like ginger and green tea Mojito and Sarong basil Daiquiri. (Note dinner only, 6.30pm till 11pm). www.sarongbali.com

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star fishWE sat down, way down, in the kitchens at Indonesia’s first W property – W Retreat & Spa Bali-Seminyak – to sample a preliminary tasting of what’s to come at Starfish Bloo, the retreat’s Pan Asian concept restaurant. The hotel was not open – building work was still going on upstairs in the lobby – which is why we had been installed at a linen-covered table a metre away from the stove. What happened over the next couple of hours made us weep with joy: Chef Jack Yoss took us through a series of culinary hoops, liquefied generously by bottles of Moet and Pinot, that gave us an insight into just how special this new neighbour will be.

Seemingly out of nowhere he produced Poached Oysters and Oscietra Caviar, Crudo of Swordfish and Alaskan Day Boat Scallop Sashimi. There was Marinated Octopus and

Charred Cuttlefish Ceviche, Teppanyaki Seared Sea Scallops and Crispy Thai Style Pork Ribs…dish after dish of the freshest and the best, built around the chef's cuisine vision. Explained Yoss: “Starfish Bloo is a thrilling opportunity to bring together my love of Pan Asian culture with my commitment to exciting, healthful and unique menus that both enhance our guests’ experience and broaden their palette. Our proximity to some of the world’s most pristine waters offers us an amazing selection of fresh seafood, as well as exotic fruits, vegetables and herbs. I’m excited to experiment with the characteristics of Pan Asian flavors, adding a twist of fresh, creative outlook each day to provide guests a sense of adventure when dining.” Indeed, indeed, Jack, we shall see you there from this month on.

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Seriously excited about lunch at Starfish Bloo, W Retreat's signature seafood resto.

JANUARY 3, 2011AfTER a day zooming around on my motorbike to meetings with photographers, stylists and my editor at The Yak, I’m unwinding with a sunset cocktail at Potato head in Seminyak. I order a Bombay Sapphire martini and wonder just how many shutters the architect had used in the façade. The whole thing looks like a giant eye, a peeping tom’s paradise or something from a Tim Burton movie. Then my phone rings.

It’s my friend, frida gustavsson. “Caitlin, there are people skiing in the streets in front of my house.” What an impressive way to open a phone call.

Just three days prior, we were staying in uluwatu together and falling off surfboards. Now she is in Stockholm telling me, “I miss Bali. The snow here is over my knees.” (frida is a runway model, so I can assure you her knees are impressively high.)

I try to commiserate with her, but I feel incapable of relating as the waitress in one of those cute Potato head costumes sets my martini in front of me.

“I told you, you shouldn’t have left,” I say and shrug my shoulders, but I know she couldn’t have stayed. The European fashion weeks had already started, and she is up to her big beautiful eyeballs in runway shows. I guess that’s the life of being one of the world’s top most requested runway models.

She sounds like she might cry, so not really thinking, I say, “I could come there and keep you company.”

“You would do that?”“Well…” The truth is, I didn’t really have much

experience with skiing in the streets. having lived in the Southern united States, Central America, Caribbean, Southern Europe and Indonesia, I have great stories and great swimming abilities, but not much experience in the way of snow.

“You could be backstage with me, my ‘plus one’ at all the shows. My brother did it once.”

I take a sip of my martini and feel my trepidation about

frostbite and wool turtlenecks slip away, replaced by images of the new louis Vuitton colour block ad campaign, Viktor and Rolf dresses, and Christian louboutin heels.

“They have the most amazing Champagne breakfast bars backstage.”

I bite into one of my olives. “Yeah sure, okay,” I say, and with a squeal from the other end of the line (or is that the squeal of my fashion-lusting alter ego?) I am suddenly on my way to the centre of glamour. She hangs up saying, “Make sure to bring plenty of warm clothes.” As I continue sipping my drink, I realize I have NOThINg to wear.

I thought I’d seen sweaters in a shop window in Seminyak, and I know a few designers who have winter pieces in their export collections. There is always a tailor… it’s going to take some organizing, but if I’ve learned one thing, it’s that anything is possible in Bali.

JANUARY 8, 2011I manoeuver my motorbike down small dirt roads scattered with rocks big enough to send my front wheel, and me, careening into the bushes. The pothole in front of me is filled to overflowing with camel-coloured water, a testimony to Bali’s rainy season, and I’m forced to stop at the edge and walk around.

The owner of Indah clothing welcomes me into her studio, and I stand in front of the fan as I survey the room, wind blowing up my long dress. It’s a clothing and fabric lover’s dream: large sheets of paper lay on the floor for designing, while bolts of new bikini fabric balance in clusters of pinks and teals against the walls. Indah’s bathing suit line is a mad success – a six-page spread in Maxim, and she tells me Sport’s Illustrated just called to say they chose two of her suits for their newest swimsuit edition.

The completed March collection hangs on a rack along one wall, and I fall in love just feeling the hand-painted dresses, but I’m here to talk winter clothes, so I tear myself away to join her on the cool tile floor. Sitting cross-legged, we start opening bags of samples from her holiday

collection, discussing colors and styles. It seems wrong to try on long pants and crocheted mohair jumpers in the smoldering heat, but I remind myself that somewhere in the world, it’s snowing, and in a few days I’ll be there. I’m sweating now, but next week I’ll be layered with scarves, tights, long sleeve shirts and gloves. It’s a very hard concept to wrap my head around, but I take a big breath and try on the various winter samples anyway.

We flick through material swatches, picking colours and discussing potential shoe combinations as she takes notes with a green marker. I’m almost six feet tall, so store-bought long pants almost never fit me. When you’re with the clothing line’s owner, however, she just makes a note and you get two inches added to every inseam. I feel like I have a backstage pass to Bali luxury shopping.

Together with the few sweaters I’ve bought from Komodo, I’m feeling ready. I just want one last thing, something spectacular, something…transparent.

Sheer has been all the rage for the last few seasons, and with the popularity of Black Swan, something tells me I can bank on another season of ballet-inspired transparency After all, every girl loves a tutu, right? I contact Titik Susanti of Tutu lovers in Kerobokan and ask if she wouldn’t mind designing something for me. After sending her photos of the latest runways’ tulle skirts and agreeing on a brown and cream palate, she tells me to come by in two days for a fitting. Now it’s off to Alta Moda’s three-story fabric house – a colour and texture wonderland.

I’m here for chiffon, single-colour chiffon to be exact. The shop assistant directs me to the elevator, practically dragging me by the arm to stop me from pausing by five bolts of Emilio Pucci fabric.

I’m thinking I’ll give up blogging and writing to design clothes so that I, too, can play with all this fabric. I want to drape it everywhere, sari/sarong/cape style.

The shop assistant bypasses the second floor and takes me straight to the third, where as soon as I step into the room, I see an entire wall covered with 100% french silk

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Yak Fashion Associate Caitlin Andrews follows model Frida Gustavsson behind the scenes at the Euro fashion weeks. Oh the glory!

chiffon in a rainbow of colors and weights. Instantly, I forget all about missing floor number two. I want to simply say, “yes, please,” and take the whole lot, but I’ve only got three days left in Bali, and I’m here on a mission. I have a new crocheted mohair sweater by Indah and a wool zip sweater from Komodo, and they need one of those flowing, see-through skirts.

I know it doesn’t sound like clothing for snow-filled countries, but it’s silk, and silk is warm… (I’m also very hot natured and hard-headed.) This will work, I convince myself.

I pick two solid colours as directed by Indah’s designer, but then I crumble in the face of the two-toned silks that look like they’ve been half immersed in a vat of dye. I add two of those to my bag as well.

I’m back on my motorbike, driving into deep dark Kuta, the bastard child of beer-chugging, sun-burnt tourists and old-school, Balinese temple-goers.

After stopping to ask for directions four times, I find a tailor’s shop with a metal shuttered front. As I unroll my french silk, it suddenly begins to downpour, so while the woman measures me over and over, an old man starts sweeping the rain out of the front of the shop with a broom. french chiffon and flooding – Bali really is the island of dichotomies.

I left my poncho in my motorbike seat, so once I’ve left my prized silk with the tailor, I sprint through ankle-deep water, glad my Christian louboutin pumps are still in the shop in Paris.

FEBRUARY 1, 2011WAITINg in lines that reach down the street and around the corner, the atmosphere is more rock concert than fashion show.

This is the fashion event for Cheap Monday (www.cheapmonday.com), the brand that was single-handedly responsible for the skinny jean craze in Europe. Whether to be proud of that or not is something you can decide because, let’s face it, some people look more like ice cream cones than a fashion model when they wear them.

Because I’m with the Press, writing this column for The Yak and a fashion blog, www.awelcomeguest.com, I get in first and quickly position myself at the end of the black runway. Music booms and strobe lights light the M.C. Escher-type staircase, while two huge projectors flash images of the models and audience.

The first model out wears a vibrant red-orange latex dress and tall cream-colored boots. Most models walk like they’re bored – you know, the whole beauty-had-a-lobotomy look, but if you’re lucky and the designer has paid for the best models, you’ll get a runway full of girls who walk like they own the runway and they’re doing you a favour by letting you exist. Then, if you’re really lucky, you get frida gustavsson.

I know it’s her before I can even see her face. She struts down a runway like she owns you and everything around

you, looking simultaneously fragile and dangerous – like an angel that would happily kick your ass all the way to heaven.

for a moment, we are all speechless, but the problem is, you can dress me up in Christian louboutin heels, Chanel makeup and a black wool dress, but you just can’t take me anywhere and expect me to behave.

I try to act cool, I really do, but then there I am squatting on the floor at the end of the Cheap Monday runway (I know, I know, my mother told me never to squat while wearing a skirt) when frida gustavsson struts out, and I almost stand up and shout, “Dude, why didn’t you tell me you were going to walk this show?” (I always use the word 'dude' when I get over excited, which is yet another reason you can’t take me anywhere).

Thankfully, I don’t stand up with my hands on my hips or even throw my pen at her. I manage to control myself, shoot a halfway decent video and enjoy the collection of sheer trousers and draping, bias-cut maxi dresses before going backstage.

Apparently, frida didn’t know I was going to be in Stockholm either, so it was the age-old story of crossed wires – ironic, as we’re both so digitally connected, we should be sponsored by Apple.

We hug like civilized people and we chat about male drama and housing issues – I even manage to keep the swearing to a minimum (my mom would be proud). All is going quite well when frida pulls out an extra hairpiece from the show. She tells me to turn around while she attaches it to my head with five bobby pins, an elastic band and hairspray.

So there we are, hamming it up for the cameras like we’re seven years old, being slightly loud and silly, when I suddenly remember that normal people don’t prance around wearing long, metallic, tube-ribbony things on their head. Crap. It’s too late. I’ve blown my cover, and no amount of plain black clothing and sensible shoes could have covered the fact that I’m just a little weird.

FEBRUARY 10, 2011ThE snow looks harmless enough as it whirls through the air, but with the sidewalks covered first in ice and then with half a foot of new powder, people (meaning me) are slipping all over the place. I’m wearing my black Sergio Rossi knee-high boots, and they are gorgeous, but I bought them because they have a vibrant purple lining, not because they make good snow boots. They don’t make good snow boots. They actually make pretty terrible snow boots, but they do make fabulous ice skates.

I’m on my way to Snickarbacken 7, a cool café-cum-boutique in the heart of Stockholm with an eclectic mix of rusty-chic antiques, new Japanese designs, contemporary art installations and clothing by Swedish designers. It’s the sort of place you walk into and instead of buying one thing, you decide you just have to move in. The couches, the

chairs, the light fixtures, the collection of knick-knacks on the coffee table – it’s all so interesting. It reminds me a little of Word of Mouth concept store and café in Seminyak, but with a more vintage feel.

FEBRUARY 15, 2011A week later and pictures of me from backstage at the Cheap Monday show have made it onto various blogs, and street style photographs of me hanging around outside various fashion events are online at Vogue Spain and Elle Canada. This has me thinking about something my mother always told me: you have to behave everywhere you go because you never know who might be looking. She also said I had to eat with my left hand in my lap or else my leg would fall off, but I guess that just goes to show that a person can’t always be right, even if she is your mother.

I’m waiting in the airport, thinking about my mother’s advice (and the neon orange Dolce and gabbana dress I bought in Copenhagen), when a man leans over the empty chair between us, saying he surely recognizes me from somewhere. I inwardly roll my eyes, and he starts to question where I’m from and what I do for a living.

Crazily enough, as my mother implied, he had seen me before, and so I’m glad the eye rolling had been purely internal. he lives in florence, Italy, where I lived for four years, studying opera. I used to pass under his house everyday on my morning run. So there; it was true – he had seen me. Being more interested in my new dress than this man, however, I return to strategizing about its perfect party debut.

he has other plans, apparently, and continues talking. It comes up that we have mutual friends, who played my opera CD for him one night at dinner a while back. The friends had always meant to introduce us (I, too, vaguely remember this). It’s a small web of a world, and since on this connected planet it’s all about who you know, I was very shortly after sitting backstage with red carpet designer William Tempest as The Body Shop launched their newest line of sustainable, cruelty-free makeup. he dressed the likes of Rihanna and Emma Watson and we were talking about Bali when from over my shoulder I hear, “No Way, you’re from The Yak? I love that magazine!” and so I was invited to shows in london in two weeks time.

I’m now on my way to a snow polo match in Cortina, Italy, with an Italian fashion house owner, and it strikes me as sheer folly to put eight men with sticks on the backs of horses and tell them to chase a very fast and hard ball around a frozen lake, but who am I to make judgments about crazy? far be it from me to complain – sweaty men on horses ranks right up there with a new pair of Jimmy Choo sandals… I just wish they’d do it somewhere warm; somewhere I could actually wear those strappy wonders. how about rice paddy polo in Bali?

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HI Selphie, can you tell us a bit about yourself, and how you grew up?I was born in 1987 in lampung, Sumatra. I was a tomboy. I loved to spend my time under the sun, catching spiders and the like, while the other girls played with their cooking toys. My parents worked in the commodities industry (and still do), and we owned a small bakery beside our house. It was my favourite hiding place; the smell of cotton candy, the freshly baked breads, sugar and butter and cute packaging. It was a bit like living in the movie Charlie and the Chocolate Factory.When were you first bitten by the fashion bug?I grew up watching my mom sew for me and my sisters during the weekends. I used to watch her butterfly sewing machine needle go up and down while she was making us batik skirts to wear to church. I love classic styles; I remember seeing lady Diana on the television and being mesmerized by her dress sense. When I went to boarding school in Singapore, my friends would talk about what they wanted to be when they grew up…doctors, business people, pilots…everyone knew I wanted to be a fashion designer. I never changed my mind about that. Some of the other kids used to laugh at me because I came from a small town and dressed like a boy.How did you train...was there a significant person who helped you along?I studied computer programming at college. I was good at it but I felt bored, so I decided to quit. I went on to take a fashion design class, which I knew my parents would not approve of. I was born into a traditional conservative Chinese family and it wasn’t easy explaining to them about my interest in fashion, so

I told my parents that I was taking a management class instead. But fashion school was expensive, and in the end I had no choice but to be honest with them. I was not considered the smartest in my class, and I never designed lady gaga-type clothing. I was known for my choice of fabrics rather than eccentric designs. I trained myself working with expensive chiffon, Chantilly, crystal and embroidery. After school I was selected to work in a beauty pageant company and there I learned about how to get the perfect cut for my designs. My management partner is the best, she guides and assists me in the business and investing side of fashion. I was solo and struggling for years before she joined our fashion house. What's your philosophy on fashion?I don’t follow fashion trends. I believe it to be a democratic industry, especially in our individual style choices. Bong’s is a line for seasonless fashion, I yearn for people to love their pieces forever, so that they may be able to wear them again and again. Every piece produced by Bong’s is simply classic.What would you consider to be the height of your success thus far?Well, I'm actually an optimist and thank god daily in everything I do. I consider myself a beginner in this fashion journey and enjoy learning every time I get a chance to do so. The opening of two new stores in Bali after launching my fashion career just three years ago, and the attention we received from haute couture aficionados, has encouraged me to venture deeper into business.If we looked in your wardrobe, what would we find?Simple T-shirts, silk scarves, fine pressed shirts and suits, a few pairs of jeans and a few dresses. handbags, and

shoes. My wardrobe consists only of classic pieces.What's wrong with the fashion world?Many people love to go out of their way to buy luxury goods, even though they might be replica – they prefer to get replica designer handbags, dresses and shoes as long as they have a Prada or louis Vuitton label. Soon enough there will be a fair trade agreement between China and Indonesia, and many of the business owners here are afraid that it will affect their businesses. But we shouldn't worry – if you know your target market, loyal users will stay within their preferred, tried and tested brands. I believe that it's always the right thing to do to be original rather than copying and adopting a "me too" business attitude that is just chasing the expiry date.What's right with the industry?Eco sustainable products are booming lately and it's the right direction in which the fashion industry should be heading, in my view.Do you ever feel like doing something else?I want to own a coffee shop one day, a french pastry shop. Working together with a great patissier sounds fabulous. I still have many things I want to achieve, even farming and planting cocoa trees. I hope one day I can found a good partnership with great investors who share the same visions.Where do you see yourself in 10 years time?I see myself as owner of a label that is approachable and readily available to the international market. I don't need to be famous. I just want to live abundantly.

www.selphiebong.com

Selphie Bong is the name behind Bong's fashion house in Bali and a girl who knows what she likes: classics.

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Lou Nietunz catches up with The Man from UNKLE and proprietor of Mo’ Wax Records, James Lavelle, for his take on Bali, the music industry and life on tour…

So James, how have you found your first trip to Bali? What are your impressions?It’s been a great surprise for me. I love Asian culture, so being in this sort of environment, with the luxury of what’s around you, plus being able to get out and do unusual things...it's been great. And the people I’ve met here are friends of friends of mine in the uK, so it’s been great. The gig (at Anantara S.O.S) was really good. It’s been one of those trips where I’ve just now got my bearings, so I think I’ve got to come back to really get into it. I know where a few things are now – you know the first few days you’re just finding out what's what, so I definitely intend to come back. I‘ve been to some temples, a few beaches, eaten in lots and lots of different restaurants, from simple but good to more stylish. My impression is that the range of restaurants is fantastic here, there’s a lot of interesting jewelers and boutiques and things like that, and also the culture of the island, that Asian mixed with Western culture. It kind of reminds me a little bit of Spain in Asia, or Ibiza in Asia, but not with the trashiness, you know? You can be really holistic, you can also party, you can see culture, you can eat interesting food, you can hide or you can get involved, that’s what I like about it. You got into the music biz at quite a young age. Were your parents musical?My grandmother was a cellist and my grandfather was an opera singer. My father was a musician in The Dubliners – he was a brilliant drummer and folk singer…so yeah, it runs through the family pretty hard. I learned to play cello when I was a kid from my grandmother.Did you have any trouble starting out so young – with people taking you seriously, we mean?Oh yeah, yeah, yeah. I still do now! I mean I started out when I was 14, and I met a lot of people at that time who are very established now. People like Pete Tong, Tim Westwood, Paul Oakenfold, Simon Dunmore, Jeremy healey, Massive Attack and Soul2Soul. So I was 14 when I met all those guys, and you’re sort of the new kid on the block, and now I’m 36. It was one of the things that went against you, but also went for you. When things worked out, it was very positive, but trying to get to that point was hard.Did anyone take you under their wing?

Yes. giles Peterson and Norman Jay were very, very instrumental, and 3D from Massive Attack as well.How did your UNklE project come about and how does it compare now to back then?It started as an idea for a production company, it was me and Tim goldsworthy, who set DfA Records after uNKlE. We were kids, we grew up together, we were 16, and I was deejaying and had a column in StraightNoChaser magazine, and in those days when you were into hip hop everything was about logos and branding and having your kind of crew and that whole mentality, so we kind of became 'The Men from unkle' and we started remixing when I was around 17. The name came from the TV show, it was kind of silly, and we never really thought about it too much until the first single we did. We always thought we were going to start a band with a different name, but after we put a few tracks out and they were getting good press the name just kind of stuck. I hate the name now, but anyway.How do you see the current state of the music industry?I think, like everything – it’s positive and negative. I think it’s great as a young, fresh band, being able to make music on minimal technology, and having the opportunity to communicate in the way you do. But I think the turn-around is way too quick. The life-span of things now it too quick. The attention-span is too quick, but that’s representative of the world we live in now. Everything’s available, everything is material, everything is doable, everything is achievable – which on one level is fantastic, but on another level doesn’t necessarily breed great skill. So you can make a track and you can get away with it, but that’s not what Stevie Wonder was, or what Marvin gaye was, or what led Zeppelin was. They were the best of what they were. You know, the Beatles had to play in clubs for 12 hours a day for three years before they got up there. I had to do the same, playing from when I was 14 till I was 18, playing every night in clubs, really hardcore, working in record stores, I gave my life to it and also had to find ways to achieve things. You know if you wanted a pair of sneakers, you had to find a way to get to New York, or if you wanted certain clothes you would have to find a way to get to Japan, and along the way you would meet a social crew, you couldn’t download it, you had to go find things, and

in many ways the journey was more important than the product, in retrospect. Materialism was part of being that age, but the journey that you had would allow you to grow and develop and experience, and that’s what I think doesn’t exist in the same way. Nowadays the music industry is seen as something disposable, and no one values it. People will pay three million quid for a Damien hirst, but they won’t pay twelve quid for a CD, it doesn’t really make sense. So, for me, it’s all about education, about understanding that music IS art, and that culture needs to be supported, and equally for me the way the culture exists, I have a brand that existed before the shift, and we got certain kudos and because of the way it works, I can do what I want to do, which is very exciting. But it’s a real dichotomy, the ironic thing is, if everyone just paid, you know, a hundredth of what they were supposed to, for music, everybody would be happy. But because of downloading, because of technology, because of China and Asia and Russia all opening up now, everywhere, South America, all the places you would not even consider trying to sell to 15 years ago, now that’s all open. You can download a track on to your mobile-phone, so if you gave me a penny each time, I would be able to make records for the rest of my life. And that’s what is all about, being able to make and create, and you need to be able to support that. You know, you listen to your favorite album much more than you’ll ever watch your favorite film, or ever read your favorite book. You listen to your favorite album maybe hundreds of thousands of times in your life, but maybe you watch The Godfather 40 times? What is the value of that?Do you still enjoy touring?Yeah, I love touring, but I just don’t enjoy deejaying as much. I like doing blocks of touring and then having blocks of time off the road. This year is the first in 22 years that I haven’t played every weekend. But when I have time away from it now, I come back to it with so much more energy and can focus on what I’m doing.

www.mowax.com

J a m e sl a v e l l e

James Lavelle.

CARVINg another fine notch of notoriety on his belt, the man in San fran with the Midas touch tops off a busy 2010 with this latest offering of new tracks and classics revisited. Working again with a stellar roster of collaborators, Ryan Raddon mixes up a new dizzying array of dance floor god-ness.

Screeching out of the block, this album takes off from the get-go in cruisey joy-ride fashion with Adam K and the familiar dreamy vocals of Sunsun on Raining. late Night Alumni follows the chase with finally found, which shifts gear and turns the corner into big-room tech-ville before teasing with a light organic throwback remix of the Kings of Tomorrow classic finally. While this newer track treatment may feature too many piano-stabs for some folks, it’s a refreshing yet sentimental nod to the past.

The vibe turns harder with SgT Slick’s

Everyday, but by that point you’re already hooked and along for the ride. Again, you cannot listen to this at low or half-volume – justice to this kind of music can only be served when fully cranked as Kaskade does not deal in half-measures. The snarly seductive lyrics by Dragonette on fire in Your New Shoes sufficiently snatch your attention, remixed by Sultan and Ned Shepard in a toying block-rocking fashion before putting pedal to metal with Dynasty featuring haley on vocals. The whirl and melt mongo-bassline is unusual at first, yet makes sense somehow before switching to acoustic interlude with finn, only to dabble back and forth between songs so you don’t know where you are. It is this teasing quality to Kaskade’s music and mixing that keeps you guessing what’s next.

Indeed innovation or reinvention are key here as the 2010 remake of his own classic It’s You It’s Me, pokes fun at past

glory in Pimp My Ride fashion before a sneaky launch into the seminal hit Chase the Sun by David Tortand Norman Doray. The ride continues at break-neck pace before downshifting to the soothing Waves of Change by Samantha James. Teenage Crime is a quizzical jaunt back upbeat by Adrian lux, as heard by Axwell and henrik B before getting further subdued with Raddon’s original Don’t Stop Dancing featuring more vocal tech-tapestry by haley. The triumphant finale comes from Alex gaudino with I’m in love which returns you home sweat-browed, refreshed, and thirsty for more.

Overall, the tempo and treatment may surprise some Kaskade fans, as this is definitely a higher energy approach to an album, but serves as the soundtrack for a great night out (or in) as long as your neighbours like to boogie.

www.kaskademusic.com

Artist: KaskadeAlbum: dance.loveLabel: Ultra

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wAlbum Reviews by Lou NietunzArtist: Cee Lo GreenAlbum: The Lady KillerLabel: Elektra

BACK to the roots of Soul music, former goodie Mob member and gnarls Barkley co-pilot, Thomas DeCarlo Callaway aka Cee lo has joined forces with an all-star cast of producers to create the stand-out, feel-good, get-down, album of the year.

Combining tongue-in-cheek James Bond-esque savoir faire with down and Dirty South goodness, this 21st-century croon-master truly lives up to the album title and more. As his intro explains, this man does what he likes – in spicy spontaneous fashion. from the deliriously infectious opening track Bright lights Bigger City, Mr. green takes us on a 60’s throwback to the future stepping-stoned by one gem after another. The already viral hit f**k You brazenly tells it like it is with the trials of heart-break in bitter-sweet bad-ass style, as if to say – I’ll miss you…but not as much as you’ll miss me.

While not all of the tracks are

necessarily full-length, verse-chorus format, some are more like love-letters giving a collection of emotions or happenings. There’s no way to have fourteen full-length tracks on one album. love gun is a gritty combination of violence and tenderness featuring guest-vocals by lauren Bennett crooning over a buck-shot driven bassline. With all of Cee lo’s prior experience with early hip-hop projects, his current concoction has both the molten softness of Soul and the steely resolve of urban street-smarts.

The laid-back confidence on fool for You with Philip Bailey, shows off the skills of a true orator, as lyrics become notes and rhythm at the same time, bringing the best tongue-twisting aspects of hip-hop into the ring together with brown-sugared backing vocals and rock-steady aplomb. The follow-up track It’s OK also is highly reminiscent of the four Tops and those

of that era. Cee lo has quite possibly become the Otis Redding of our times. unabashedly old-fashioned, this album brings the best of bygone times back to the future, and fittingly, the next track Old fashioned drives this point home in soaring classic style. Maybe the green in his stage-name is a cheeky tip of the hat to Reverend Al.

The brooding, darker final piece No One’s gonna love You rounds out the journey, telling the lady in question what she’s got, or could’ve had, before zooming off in vocal-assassin fashion. This is one of those instantly classic albums that begs for replay, and will keep you warm on those chilly, lonesome nights. By the by, more of this man’s magic from earlier years can be found on his best-of collection entitled Closet freak. Enjoy!

www.ceelogreen.com

MOOD OF THE MOMENT. You are more than just your Sun Sign. You are your Rising Sign and all the other planets. You are many parts and some of them cooperate with each other and some of them are at war. Each planet is a part of us that has its job to do. Some planets hurt, but they can have a good result. Other planets feel good, but can have an unpleasant result. It is the contradiction that creates the friction that creates life. So it is Pluto time for the world and particularly for us. Pluto has to do with death and power, dictatorships and police states, surveillance and survival. It has to do with catastrophe and consciousness, trauma or transformation. When it square's Uranus back and forth 2012-2015, we can expect sudden explosive events all over the world, either natural or man-made.

By Dr Deepak | astro-deepak@usa.net | www.astronlp.com | Skype: drdeepakvidmarmoodofthemomenta

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Meditate deeply, intensely, in March to be in your center when you explode with energy in April. Six planets in Aries going square with Pluto and oppose Saturn. good time to climb a mountain or do primal or start a revolution or just run down the street screaming like a madman. Krakatoa time plus Vesuvius together. All that energy is your weakness because like a rocket it runs out of fuel after blast off. Pluto is watching, waiting for that moment. You have to pick the right target and to see Pluto before he sees you.

taurus Be with friends in March and then take them with you into the cave in April. find yourself a rabbit hole, a refuge, a sanctuary where the wolf can puff and puff and cannot blow your door down. Take a carpet with you and your favorite chair and make it comfortable. Your strength of stability and fixedness is your weakness now. Pluto will break your crutches, rust your tools and sweep away the ground upon which you fixedly stand. Your persistence and stubbornness has met its match. Pluto never stops. It never does.

gemini Be with people in power in March to be with your friends in community in April. find the leader who cares for others and pass on his message to the flock that together we stand and separate we fall. You are designed to be the communicator and the networker and to bring the news that keeps us together. Therein lies your weakness. The message is that a long struggle lies ahead and the promised land has sunk beneath the waves. good people don’t like to hear bad news and bad people will cut your tongue out if you tell the truth.

cancer Read all you can and listen all you can and acknowledge that

gut level feeling of your emotions to understand what is going on in the world outside your home. use the month of March to get the big picture and then in April take on the role of a mother hen and gather all the chicks together to protect them from the big bad wolf outside the door. Your gift and strength is in the nurturance of the ones you love. That is your weakness and it is your loved ones that the Pluto wolf will consume. Their pain is your pain and there is no choice. It is your way.

leo Time to be like a silent submarine in March and to go into the dark depths to see what lurks on the ocean floor. Time to sneak into the shadows to find out where the light is coming from. In April you will know the truth, the meaning behind it all, and you will lead the rest of us out of the wilderness. Your strength is in love of self and pride of being and you will be judged harshly and persecuted for daring to speak out. Persevere and you will succeed. Dampen your light to avoid judgment and we all fall. By loving yourself, you set us free to love ourselves.

virgo In March your energies are consumed with relationships and how your part fits into the whole. In April, you can take what you have learned about relationships and crystallize your many warring parts into a single essence that goes deeper and further in time than ordinary life. The details escape you now and how things work don’t make sense and cannot be described. You don’t know who you are and so you go deeper, deeper in. Your strength is in your drive to eliminate your faults and therein lies your weakness. Pluto will find your chief weakness and then kill you with it.

libra March is the time to take care of your health and eliminate bad

habits. April is the time to experience relationships in a new way. Your normal tea and cookies superficial chit chat socializing will no longer work. forcing people into harmonious ‘let’s all behave and be nice’ will no longer work. good manners are not going to work. Your strength is imposing your will on others to make them compromise and get along. Therein lies your weakness. Pluto knows no compromise. It will not surrender and it will not stop and it will not be nice. It will have its way, not yours.

scorpio March is the time to be creative and take risks. In April is the time to learn from your mistakes and perfect your techniques. Mistakes are useful to you now or else you will not know what to make better. Your strength of laser beam focusing will be challenged now because Pluto is just as good at hiding and camouflage as you are. You may be focusing on a false flag operation and be led astray to the wrong target. Your strength of looking into the faults and weaknesses of others is your weakness now. You will find no worthy allies and you fight alone.

sagittarius March is a good time to nail your roaming feet to the floor and call it home. In April is a good time to realize that home is an illusion and there is no security to be found anywhere. There is no resting place and there is no refuge and the oasis in the desert you have been looking for was filled up with sand before you started the journey. Your strength is in your self confidence that from wherever you jump, you will land on your feet. Therein lies your weakness. Pluto will devalue you and destroy your self esteem. Just one nanosecond of hesitation the next time you jump and you land on your head.

capricorn Normally you are one of these self-sufficient types who carry

their own maps so you don’t have to ask anyone which way to go. March is a good time to ask and what you should be asking is, “Which way is home?”. In April is a good time to be there and dig your roots in as if it is permanent. It won’t be permanent, but you have to try anyway. Your strength is your work in the world, but that has always been dependent on others and the respect and recognition they give. There in lies your weakness. Nothing you do now will be good enough.

aquarius March is a good time to pay attention to the money, either busy making it or spending it. good to get back into the material world and get grounded again after all those years having a gah gah Neptune transit. In April it is good to network and reconnect with old friends again. Your strength has always been to be detached and to see things from all points of view. Therein lies your weakness. Pluto will not let you be detached and it will dominate and possess you. It will not let you have your own unique point of view. It is his way or the highway.

pisces Ah, my dear sweet little Pisces. What delicious food you are. March is a good time to see your true self, which is the fattened cow to be sacrificed on the altar. You offer yourself for sacrifice and you call it surrender. In April is a good time to have what you have always wanted only to discover that it doesn’t make you happy after all. It is a good time to discover all the food is locked up in the cupboard but you forgot where you put the key. Your strength has always been your kindness toward others and therein lies your weakness. You don’t know who to be kind to. Be kind to the beast and he thinks it is an invitation for him to eat you.

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EVENT ORGANISERPro Motion Events Tel: 287250 www.pro-motion-events.comPage 168

HEALTH, SPAS & SALONSAMO Beauty & SpaTel: 2753337/38www.amospa.comPage 18 Yak Map O.5 BIMC Anti-aging ClinicTel: 761263www.bimcbali.comPage 42 Yak Map f.12Fabulously FeetTel: 8475764www.fabulouslyfeet.comPage 169 Yak Map Y.11 SpoiledTel: 8475141Yak Directory Yak Map S.1Sunset PilatesTel: 7914127www.pilatesbali.comYak Directory Yak Map Z.15Theta SpaTel: 755726www.thetaspa.comPage 37 Yak Map C.14Vitamin SpaTel: Tel: 8870 111Yak Directory Yak Map R.11

HOTELS & VILLASAlila Villa SooriTel: 8946388www.alilavillasoori.comPage 119Anantara UluwatuTel: 768402 www.balianantarauluwatu.comPage 109Batu karangTel: 0366 24880 www.batukaranglembongan.comPage 92 Cinta InnTel: 975395 www.cintainn.comPage 131Four SeasonsTel: 701010www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbayPage 51/137Matahari Beach ResortTel: (0362)92312/93435

www.matahari-beach-resort.comPage 137Sea SentosaTel: 8881234www.seasentosa.comPage 5 Yak Map R.8St. RegisTel: 8478111www.stregis.com/baliPage 16 The ElysianTel: 730999www.theelysian.comPage 4 Yak Map P.10The laguna Resort & Spa Tel: 771327 www.luxurycollection.com/baliPage 46 The legianTel: 730622www.ghmhotels.comPage 92 Yak Map N.8The Royal SantrianTel: 778181www.theroyalsantrian.comPage 22The Seminyak Tel: 730814www.theseminyak.comPage 28 Yak Map N.8The Stones kutaTel: 766100www.thestones-kuta.com Page 20 Yak Map C.12Villa Babarwww.balivillababar.comPage 21 W Retreat & Spa www.whotels.com/baliseminyakPage 41 Yak Map O.4

MEDIABAMTelp: 734857www.balialternativemedia.comPage 167Island CommunicationsTel: 282010 www.icommbali.comPage 169Mango Visionwww.mangovision.tvPage 160

MISCELLANEOUSBespokeTel: 9003025www.bespoke-bali.comPage 143lim Charoen Hughes & GlanvilleTel: 727114www.limcharoen.comPage 103Rim Cargo

Tel: 737670www.rimcargo.comPage 138 Yak Map T.8Zapp Designwww.zapp-design.comPage 79 Yak Map Z.3 PROPERTYElite Havens Tel: 731074 /738747www.elitehavens.comPage 1 Yak Map P.8/ V.1Exotiq Property Tel: 737358,703208,287642www.exotiqproperty.comPage 2 Yak Map S.8PT. Maca Tel: 7455442 /3www.macabalivillas.comPage 29 Yak Map O.9Ubud Property Tel: 970888www.ubudproperty.comYak Directory

RECREATIONCanggu ClubTel: 8446385www.cangguclub.comPage 24 Yak Map N.1Waka land Tel: 426971/72www.wakaland.comPage 51

RESTAURANTS & BARS Bali BakeryTel: 755149www.balibakery.comPage 139 Yak Map f.11, P.7Bali Good FoodTel: 285777www.baligoodfood.comPage 53 Yak Map D.13Biku BaliTel: 8570888www.bikubali.comPage 169 Yak Map O.5Blossom Tel: 730333www.balisentosa.com Page 45 Yak Map O.6Cafe BaliTel: 7801515thecafebali@yahoo.comPage 79 Yak Map Q.7Cocoon BeachTelp: 731266www.cocoon-beach.comPage 35 Yak Map Q.13 Hu’u Bar/NutMegsTel: 736443 www.huubali.comPage 12-13 Yak Map N.6 ku De Ta

Tel: 736969 www.koffee.com.auwww.kudeta.netPage 3 Yak Map N.9 Sarong Tel:737809www.sarongbali.comPage 167 Yak Map P.4Sea Circus Tel: 738667Page 4 Yak Map N.7Yak DirectorySOS Supper Club Tel: 737773www.sosasupperclub.comPage 165 Yak Map P.11The JunctionTel: 735610Page 47 Yak Map Q.7Word of MouthTel: 8475797www.wordofmouthbali.comPage 33 Yak Map Y.10

SHOPS Bamboo BlondeTel: 3640060Page 43 Yak Map S.8, u.11Benson www.bensonshorts.comYak Directory Yak Map P.7Biasa Tel: 730308, 8878002, 0217182322www.biasabali.comPage 10-11 Yak Map V.12BloomzTel: 2171149www.blomzflowers.comPage 168 Y ak Map V.2Body & Soul Tel: 732326www.bodyandsoulclothing.comPage 19 Yak Map V.13, u.13Bong's Tel: 8084168, 730580www.selphiebong.comPage 26 Yak Map V.11By The Seawww.bytheseatropical.comPage 25 Yak Map E.13, S.8, V.9, V.12 CarloTel: 285211www.carloshowroom.comPage 27delightingTel: 420512, 7447041www.de-lighting.comPage 15 Yak Map T.8/W.10Deus Ex Machina Tel: 3683385 /95www.deus.co.idPage 8-9 Yak Map T.8 Eight Degrees South Tel: 736036

www.8-degrees-south.comPage 78 Yak Map W.5Farah khanwww.farahkhan.comPage IfC Yak Map O.4/N.8Gourmet GarageTel: 701650, 750848Page BICHatten WinesTel: 767422www.hattenwines.comPage 143 Yak Map f.12Indivie Tel: 730927 info@indivie.com Yak Directory Yak Map V.11Indowines/TabaliTel: 8477232 Yak Map f.11Page 161 kolektor BaliTel: 737625www.kolektorbali.comPage 160 Yak Map P.7lily Jeanwww.lily-jean.comPage 17 Yak Map V.11MienTel: 735964www.mien-design.comPage 138 Yak Map N.5Milo'sTel: 8222008, 731689www. milos-bali.comPage 93 Yak Map O.8 Mister Zimi www.misterzimi.comYak Directory Yak Map P.7Nico PerezTel: 738655Page 6-7 Yak Map S.8Paul RoppTel: 734208, 731002, 974655www.paulropp.comBack Cover Yak Map T.8Peripluswww.periplus.co.id Page 168 Yak Map f.13, P.7Platform 18/27Tel: 738746www.platform1827.comPage 167 Yak Map T.8Pura Vidawww.puravidafashion.comPage 23 Yak Map u.12Quarzia Tel: 736644 www.quarzia.itPage 39 Yak Map O.8skswww.sksbali.comPage 31 Yak Map T.8Vinoti livingTel: 081388005092www.vinotiliving.comPage 78 Yak Map P.13

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